How to Make an Operation Bulletin for a Garment?

An Operation Bulletin is one of the primary IE tools. An OB helps to set a production line with the
correct number of machines and manpower. To make it easy for learners I have explained OB
making process step by step. Prior to using these steps for making an OB, you need to know  how
to determine operation SMV, calculation of machine requirement and how to make operation breakdown of
a garment.

How to Prepare an Operation Bulletin (OB) format.

You need a computer with a spreadsheet (Excel sheet) to make this format and to do calculations
quickly. In the image at the bottom, I have shown one sample operation bulletin. You can copy
this format for your use or make one yourself. On the header add details like style#, Buyer,
Order Qty. etc.

Add a formula to the cells for auto calculation when you feed SMVs. The formula for each column
has been given in the following steps. Cells highlighted with gray colors are set with formula. A
basic operation bulletin contains the following information.

1. Daily working hours 

2. Target output per day or per hour 
3. Total SMV (Sewing SMV and Non-sewing SMV) 
4. OB prepared by (Name of the Engineer) 
5. Job code 
6. Operation description 
7. Machine description 
8. SMV @ 100% Efficiency 
9. SMV @ target efficiency% 
10. Calculated production per hour 
11. Name of the Folder and attachment if used 
12. Calculated no. of machines 
13. Actual no. of machines
14. Estimated production per unit hours 
15. Any remarks 
How to Calculate Thread Consumption for Garments?
There is a standard formula for determining thread consumption for apparel products. In that
formula, you will get multiplying factors according to machine type and stitch class. To determine
thread consumption you just need to multiply seam length with those factors. This way one can
estimate the total thread requirement for making a garment.

Actual thread consumption for a unit length of seam depends on the following factors. 
1. Stitch Classes
2. Stitches per inches (SPI)
3. The thickness of the seam (fabric thickness)
4. Thread tension
5. Thread count (thickness of sewing thread)

So you are suggested to calculate garment thread consumption by your own. You can develop a
multiplying factor according to your product categories and requirement using the following steps.

Thread Consumption Calculation Process is Simplified

Step 1: To calculate thread ratio, you need a sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread that will
be used for bulk production. For fabric and thread, you can take similar thickness and same
thread count in case actual is not available.

Step 2: Sew a seam of 12 cms long and take 10 cms seam out of it by trimming  1 cm from both
edges.

Step 3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin thread from the seam. Remove crimp from
the unraveled thread and measure its length in cm. Generally, it will be higher than the seam
length. Now find the multiplying factor by dividing thread length with seam length.
Assume unravelled needle thread length is 12.5 cm then needle thread multiplying factor is
12.5/10 or 1.25.
Using this method you can find out any types of machines’ thread consumption factors.

Step 4: Once you have consumption factors then it is easy to calculate total thread consumption.
Measure the seam length of all operations of the garment and get thread requirement by
multiplying thread consumption factor. Add thread wastage 5% for the thread that trims out from
each end of the seam.
For quick reference, you can follow the following thread consumption ratios.
Source: Coats thread consumption guide.
How to Increase Sewing Operator Efficiency?
In the garments manufacturing sector, a sewing operator plays an important role. Sewing
operator efficiency has a great impact in achieving higher garments production, ultimately
which helps to respect the shipping date. As its importance, today I will present here some
important key points which help to increase the sewing operator efficiency.

Key Points for Increasing Sewing Operator Efficiency:

The following are the most important key points for increasing sewing operator efficiency.
1. Training sewing operator,
2. Motivation,
3. Selection of expert operator for the critical process,
4. Development of working methods,
5. Set-up perfect machine layout,
6. Continuous feeding to the operators,
7. Remove unnecessary interruption during working,
8. Set-up target for the operator,
9. Avoid excessive overtime to the operator.

1. Training sewing operator:

The operator is the main in garments manufacturing factory. It’s seen that less expert sewing
operator takes more time but provides lower outputs in garments manufacturing. So, to increase
sewing operator efficiency, training for sewing operators is a must.

2. Motivation:
Operator motivation plays an important role in increasing operator efficiency. So, to increase
operator efficiency, factory authority should motivate the operator by arranging different cultural
programs, a bonus for achieving targeted effort.

3. Selection of expert operator for the critical process:

It’s an important key point to increase operator efficiency. If the expert operator is selected for
the most critical processes then the rest of the process of that style will be easy and ultimately
operator efficiency will be increased.

4. Development of working methods:

The working method should be developed by using work-study and motion study for increased
operator efficiency. Sometimes it’s seen that, for a garment’s style, several unnecessary motions
have been kept in line which ultimately decreases the operator efficiency. So, in that case,
unnecessary motions should be removed for increased operator efficiency.
5. Set-up perfect machine layout:
A perfect machine layout for a particular style of clothing helps to complete 50% of total work for
that style. So, a perfect machine layout is a must to increase operator efficiency. Perfect machine
layout helps to minimize the material handling time as much as possible.

6. Continuous feeding to the operators:

It’s a very important one to increase operator efficiency. When a sewing operator has assigned
with less work content then he has so much idle times. In this situation, you have to pass more
works to him for increasing operator efficiency.

7. Remove unnecessary interruption during working:

It’s one of the important issues for decreasing operator efficiency. Sometimes it’s seen that the
sewing operator is interrupted by supervisors and quality controllers, also submitted defective
pieces to rectify, which consumes time and decreases operator efficiency. So, unnecessary
interruption should be removed during working for increasing operator efficiency.

8. Set-up target for the operator:

Target set-up for the sewing operator is one of the useful factors for increasing sewing operator
efficiency. In this case, first have to set an achievable target according to the sewing operator’s
skill level, so that they can touch the given target. This system is very helpful for increased
operator efficiency.

9. Avoid excessive overtime to the operator:

Excessive overtime to the operator can easily decrease operator efficiency. So, if you want to
achieve better output from the sewing operator, then you must avoid excessive overtime to the
sewing operator and confirm one day off weekly.

Definition of Productivity

Manufacturing Productivity can be given as “OUTPUT” compared to “INPUT”.

In the case of a garment manufacturing factory, “output” can be taken as the number of
products manufactured, whilst “input” is the people, machinery and factory resources required
to create those products within a given time frame. The key to cost-effective improvements in
output – in “productivity” – is to ensure that the relationship between input and output is properly
balanced. For example, there is little to be gained from an increase in output if it comes only as a
result of a major increase in input. Indeed, in an ideal situation, “input” should be controlled and
minimized whilst “output” is maximized.
An example of productivity calculation
Let's calculate the labour productivity of a sewing production line. Let assume,
Total garment production in a day =800 pieces
Total labour (operator +helpers) = 40
Shift hours = 8 hours (working hours in a day)

Labour productivity calculation formula is given as 

= (Total line output in pieces / Total labour input in manpower)
Therefore, calculated labour productivity per 8 hours shift 
 = (800/40) Pieces =20 units of garment per labour per shift.

Benefits of measuring productivity

Higher productivity provides more products from the same number of people, in the same time
frame. This, in turn, improves “overhead recovery” related to factory costs, such as electricity
and fuel, because overheads are fixed within that time frame. So, the more products produced in
a given time frame the less overhead allocation per product, which, in turn, reduces the cost of
each individual item and therefore improves competitive edge.

 "Managing Productivity in the Apparel Industry" explained the different ways of measuring
productivity. Productivity can be expressed in many ways but mostly productivity is measured as
labour productivity, machine productivity or value productivity. These three ways of measuring
shop floor productivity in a garment unit.

Labour productivity - Output per labour (direct +indirect) in a given time frame (in pieces) 
Machine productivity - Output per machine in a given time frame (in pieces) 
Value productivity - Total value of output in a given time frame. 
In the apparel manufacturing, shop floor productivity can be improved by using one of these
methods. 
What is Process Standardisation in garment industry?
Process Standardisation is defining, documenting & implementing the best method of
performing processes for continuous improvement

Benefits of Process Standardisation in garment industry

1. Best method: With standardisation in mind, we are laying emphasis on finding out &
documenting the best possible method of performing an operation. This study will help
improve a lot of processes and bring down the SAM value or process time
2. in turn improves the efficiency & reduces confusion.
3. Reduced Training time: The standardised process is illustrated in a document clearly
which can be used for training,re-training & multiskilling.
4. Attacks Variability: Pin pointing reason for sudden variation in the result is easier if the
work has been standardised. Any deviation from standard method will lead to deviation in
result.For example – There is a sudden increase in uneven stitch at the collar top stitch.
The quality manager goes to the operation to find out the reason. He observes that the
machine is fit with normal pressure foot as opposed to compensated pressure foot
mentioned in the standard work document.
5. Helps in Continuous Improvement: Standardised works is the key to continuous
improvement. Further improvement can only be done to standardised processes.  For
example: An industrial engineers studied the placement of pins on profile for collar run
stitch and mentioned the findings in the standard work document. With time the method
was adopted and supervisors had their attention on pins.Later they found out that out of
the three one pin can be removed without affecting the quality.
6. Helps in Automation: Standardised work paves the path for automation as only when the
best sequential steps to do a work is known Automation can be carried. Automation ideas
can be easily found with standardisation. For eg: while sewing side seam of a shirt the
standardised worksheet says that an operator should stop & realign the panels at the
armhole seam. This is because seam doesn’t fold properly in the folder as it is thicker. This
in turn will allow the fabric to go inside the folder properly & Raw edges will be avoided.   
Now in future if the machine is calibrated to stop at the armhole seam automatically, this
will be a Poka- yoke, automatically stopping the machine thus asking the operator to insert
the seam properly in the folder and avoiding raw edges.  Thus saving time in pinning &
improving the process further.
 7. Cross Functional Teams: In an office if a person repeats the work sequentially the
person sitting next to him will automatically learn about his job thus enabling cross
functional teams. Also if a work is documented anyone can be asked to fill-in in case of
absence. This eliminates dependability of processes on people.
8. Aesthetically pleasing workplace: And Finally Standardised workplace looks better
aesthetically than non-standardised workplace.

Flow Chart of Apparel Manufacturing Process

The apparel manufacturing process depends on some steps and techniques. The clothing creation running
actions and methods included in the developing outfits for the huge of creation in company time frame for
company reasons is known as outfits developing technologies. Garments plants are identified according to
their item kinds are as follows: Garments Factory are classified with some dept.
1. Woven Garment Factory.
2. Knit Garments factory
3. Sweater Garments Factory

Apparel Manufacturing Process:

Step-wise apparel manufacturing process sequence on industrial basis is given below:
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/ Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Dispatch