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HAND SEWING
LESSONS

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EDUCATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY i

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HAND SEWING
LESSONS h

A Graded Course for Schools and for

the Home.

By Sarah Ewell Krolik

WORK WELL ^DOI

EDUCATIONAL PUBLISHING COMPANY

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 1

Copyrighted 1901
By SARAH EWELL KROUK
All rights reserved.

Copyrighted 1905
By SARAH EWKLL KROLIK,
260028
A SKILFUL HAND is A HELPING HAND.
 PREFACE.
The value of these lessons has been proven by fifteen years of experi-
ence in the " Self-Help Circle," a school organized to instruct girls in the
domestic arts. At first they were taught on clothing for themselves, which
they paid for in small sums from week to week.
It was found that while all learned to make garments for home use, few
became expert needlewomen. Haste complete wearing apparel resulted
to

in inferior workmanship. A combination course was adopted which gives

variety with continuity. It has been used for several years with excellent
results. Pupils are taught that only by careful practice can they hope to
excel, that these models are the way marks of their progress, and will be
treasured by them in the future as their own handiwork. With the text,
they form a book of reference on making and mending garments that is
highly prized.
"Hand Sewing Lessons " is a book for those who wish to learn sewing

and how to teach it to others. It gives a practical course for normal and

high school classes and supplies trained teachers with printed instructions
for pupils in place of written ones that take so much time and that over-
lap the work of other departments. The stitches are combined for practice
while new ones are being learned, so as to form a continuous line of progress
and carry out the principle of bridging the way from the known to the
unknown, and of making a pleasant road to knowledge, which will become
a part of daily life in after years.
Thanks are due to Mrs. Edwin E. Leggett of Detroit, former superin-
tendent of the Solvay Sewing School, Delray, Michigan, for suggestions from
her school notes and plan of finger exercises, and to Mrs. Julia d'Arcambal
Giddings for her assistance.
S. E. K.
 CONTENTS.
To Teachers .... .
PAGE
I I

To Mothers
Topics for Talks
Sewing Outfit
.......
........
13
17
17
Cloth 18
Needles and Thread 18
Models 19
Combination of Graded Course with Practice Work . 20

PART FIRST.

DIVISION I.

Model
Model
Model
i.

2.

3.
Basting
Overhanding
Matched Edges
....
.
27
28
28
Model 4. Warp and Woof, Overcasting . 28

DIVISION II.

Model 5. Running stitch 30

Model 6. Tucking

DIVISION III.

Model 7. Hemming, Mitred Corner

Model 8. Extension and Faced Hems, Blind Hem on Cotton 34
Model 9. Hem-stitching 35
 PART SECOND.
DIVISION IV.

Model 10.
Model ii.
Model 12.
Model 13
 PAGE
Model 25. Blanket-stitch, Cat-stitch, and Flannel-stitch 63
Model 26. Pupil's Name in Cross-stitch . 67

DIVISION X.

Model 27. Rolled Hem and Gathers 69

DIVISION XI.
Model 28. Doll's Gored Skirt 23> 71
Model 29. Doll's Underwaist 24, 71
Model 30. Doll's Drawers 24, 71
Model 31. Doll's Flannel Skirt 25> 71
Model 32. Doll's Dress .
26, 71

DIVISION XII.

Cutting garments from patterns and the practical application of the

lessons on the models
Drafting Children's Garments 73
Directions for Cutting Doll's Dress . a
77
Finger Exercises . .
.
79
Cloth required for twenty sets of Models ,
83
Outline for a Two Years' Course 83
Fayal Weaving 84
Pieces required for one set of Models
85

SUPPLEMENT.
Indian Bead Work
Indian Basketry .

Index 97
 INTRODUCTION.
TO TEACHERS.
Hand Sewing Lessons is a three years' course from which selections can
be made for shorter courses. Normal and high school classes complete it in
one year of two lessons per week.
With less practice work the entire course can be taken by pupils in two
school years.
Models and materials for small articles are supplied by the school.
Cloth for garments supplied by pupils or sold to them at cost.
is Only plain
small garments are made. Pupils are not required to do more practice work
than is necessary to acquire skill. If progress is slow, a change from one

stitch to another and back again is helpful.

Large classes are taught by passing from one pupil to another in regular
order or by receiving at a desk in groups of two or three, those that require
assistance. To secure the best results, a class should not number more than
fifteen or twenty. Children who are beginners in sewing make, during the
firstyear, simple garments and articles that give practice on the stitches of
Part First and make the models included in it, as soon as the sewing is

satisfactory. Each child prepares as much of her own work as is possible.

This plan continued through the course.
is

Pupils sit erect while sewing, with their feet on the floor and the lower
part of the spine against the chair back. They should have low chairs and,
if possible, tables or desks. Never allow them to pin the work to the knee.
Watch the position ot the hands, also the manner of holding cloth and

implements, until they are held in the right way. Practice is given on
pieces of cloth with needles threaded and without knots. A few minutes'
exercise in pushing the needle with the thimble is given when the class

opens.
11
 Rapidity may be acquired by putting the needle in carefully and
drawing it through quickly. Practice this exercise without a knot in the
thread.
Teach pupils to sew with the side of the thimble, as it presents a larger
surface for wear and can be used with greater ease than the end. The top
thimble is objectionable for continuous work, as it retains the perspiration of
the finger.
Fine handmade garments are shown them as they progress, to stimulate
a desire to improve. Sewing on small articles of use interests a child, and
she does not get tired of it, and become careless, nor get in too great haste
to finish her work, as is the case in garment making. The latter is taught
after some skill and patience are acquired by making simpler things.
Look over the stitches before the school hour and clip threads at short
intervals on all that must be ripped.
Great patience should be exercised with dull pupils. Without patience,
cheerfulness, and firmness there can be no success. Enthusiasm may be
aroused if the teacher understands her work and is in love with it, and loves
the children placed in her care.
Mission schools, divided into small classes and taught by volunteer
teachers, should be under the supervision of an experienced needlewoman,
who is a competent teacher. This method gives the volunteer helper work
with which she can make and she can get good results by
herself familiar

studying to make it interesting. She should come

to her class early or pro-
vide a substitute who understands
sewing. Before the class opens she
should see that her pupils have work, so that no time need be lost.
These schools are sometimes organized as clubs. Dues of five cents
per quarter, that is, for three months, should be paid by the pupils at the
beginning of each term for club funds to be used for material or other small
expenses. It gives them a sense of personal ownership in the school to pay

something for what they are receiving. No charity should be dispensed,

but some special privileges or useful gifts may be given on the last session
of each month to those who have attended regularly during that time.

Samples for practice work can be procured for mission schools from
wholesale dry goods stores, and some of these pieces are of sufficient value
12
to distribute at the end of each month to pupils whose attendance merits
them.
Volunteer teachers should take these lessons from a skilled needle-
woman. they have had experience in sewing they do not need the
If

practice work.
Capable teachers and careful superintendence are essential.

TO MOTHERS.
Sewing should become a part of every girl's education, from childhood
to womanhood not ; only as a useful art to be practiced at home, but for its
educational value. By this means skill and attention are developed, habits
of industry are acquired, and a love is cultivated for other domestic arts,
which are irksome only to those who have not had any kind of manual
training. A prominent educator said that one of the future dangers of our
country lies in the habit of idleness resulting from the one-sided education
of the present day. As a child can be taught to be generous by teaching it
to give, it can be taught to be industrious by teaching it to work, if the
teaching is begun early, and if the work is made attractive.
The small boy is quite as much helped by this training as his sister.

The needle is used first to string beads. Children draw simple things on
white cardboard, four or five inches square, and make pin holes on the lines
about one-quarter inch apart. They can easily sew through these with a
needle which should be threaded with bright cotton for first work, and later
with silk or wool.
A
girl of three or four years of age is pleased to sew daily. Give her a
needle with a double thread, or a coarse needle, so that it can pass through
the cloth easily when the thread is tied to it. The cloth should be thin,
with some dressing in it, or coarse and loosely woven. At first she will take
a few stitches over and over, the thread will tangle, and she will soon
tire. Do not be discouraged by her failures. Daily efforts will soon make
her more skilful and she will be able to sew a seam if a line is marked along
the edge for the stitches. They be of uneven length, but do not rip
will

them. Draw another line near the first and let her try again. Allow her to
13
sew often, but not more than fifteen minutes at a time. It may be a year
before she can sew a seam well, but all the while she is
learning to concen-
trate her mind. Develop self-reliance by encouraging her to make, her own
choice of colors and to decorate her doll's gowns with bits of ribbon,
according to her own fancy.
By the time she is four years old she will be able to join strips of
cloth and wind them into balls to be made into a rag carpet rug for the

nursery. Cut the rags of bright pieces of cotton or silk which can be saved
in a box for that purpose. Give her a covered basket for her work and
teach her to keep it in order. She should have a pair of blunt scissors and
be allowed to cut paper over a box or open newspaper, and should put away
the scraps. She will make what she imagines to be familiar figures of all
sorts and will soon learn to cut by a line on paper or on pieces of striped
gingham or calico, and to cut strips for weaving dolls' rugs.

She enjoy cutting flowers from wall paper for decorations, and pic-
will

tures of children from advertisements, for paper dolls, and it will be fine

practice.
Keep the work basket handy for a spare moment and her box of sup-

plies well filled. Make the sewing a part of every day's routine to be taken
in hand several times, if possible. As she grows older a regular time may
be set.

When she is eight years old, or perhaps before, she can cut doll's
clothes of paper and fit them on a paper doll with She can
library paste.
also design and make them of cloth for her dolls.

By this time she may be able to make the first models, and she will
have skill and application that will be of use to her. If her needle is a rival
ot her books, so much the better. Books will have their time a little later

and she be better prepared to devote herself to them then, for idleness
will

will be irksome. She will bring to them that concentration of mind so

lacking in many girls of to-day, whose hands were not educated with their

brains.
For variety and to develop thought and skill, interest the child in the
useful occupations of making household articles and furniture by encourag-
ing her to manufacture them in miniature form. The dry goods box or
14
doll-house, with its three floors and garret under a Gothic roof, may be fur-

nished with the work of little hands, and with care and perseverance it will

put on an attractive appearance. Rugs may be woven for it, and by the
exercise of ingenuity in the use of cloth, clay, wood, and paper, articles for
ornament and use in corresponding size may be provided.
Young girls who are being taught to sew in school should receive the
careful attention of the mother, as the time allowed in most schools is too
short for the necessary training. The teacher is greatly helped by her
co-operation. Girls enjoy taking this course at home. An older member
of the family, with some knowledge of hand sewing, can easily qualify her-
self to give it. Mothers are amply repaid for their efforts, by the benefits
which their daughters derive from domestic training in all the arts of home
making, and sewing is a very important one.

15
 HAND SEWING LESSONS.
A Graded Course for Schools*

TOPICS FOR TALKS.

Object lessons are given on the following articles used in

sewing silk, wool, linen, cotton, and their manufacture into cloth,
batting, cord, thread, and yarn; also needles, pins, thimbles, emery,
scissors, buttons, wax, hooks and eyes. The difference between
gingham and calico, between plain and twilled cloth, and between
wool and silk, is explained.
Cabinets are prepared showing the changes from the raw
material to the finished article.

SEWING OUTFIT.
Pupils should have aprons, books for models, paper and cloth
to practice on, thimbles, scissors, and measures of their own, and
thread, needles, pins, wax, and emery balls for desks or for class use
at tables. Convenient boxes are of strong, thin Manila cardboard,
that close like envelopes, and fasten with a string. They are seven
inches wide, ten inches long, and one inch high. If strong Manila

envelopes are used, they should be about two inches wider. Cloth
bags are also used. They are drawn up with an open string, the
ends of which are wound around the top in opposite directions and
tied. A case of pigeon-holes is convenient for storing work-boxes.
Use a rubber band to hold the leaves containing the models. Cut
sixty-inch cloth measures into ten-inch lengths to supply classes.
17
 CLOTH.
Cloth is a woven or felted fabric.
A selvedge the woven edge of cloth.
is

A raw edge one that cut or torn.

is is

A seam a line formed to join two pieces of fabric.

is

A nap is a surface of fine hair or fiber combed from the cloth,

and lying smoothly in one direction.
The lengthwise threads are called the warp. It is parallel with
the selvedge.
The crosswise threads are called the woof. It runs from sel-

vedge to selvedge.
A bias is a slanting line across warp and woof.
A true bias is one that has the same angle to the warp that it

has to the woof.

The warp is nearly always stronger and firmer than the woof,
and shrinks more when washed.
The woof usually stretches more than the warp. As woof will
stretch, make this test when pieces are to be joined with warps parallel.
Cut off selvedge edges when not required, or clip them at intervals.
Cloth sometimes becomes crooked when pressed at a factory.
It is straight when you can ravel the torn edges. If it does not

seem straight, stretch

it diagonally until it is. Cloth tears more
easily lengthwise than crosswise. Cloth for hand sewing should be
soft, and not too closely woven for the needle to pass through it
easily. Cut linen on the line of a drawn thread and ginghams by a
thread of the pattern.

NEEDLES AND THREAD.

Thread is a small twist of linen, silk, cotton, or wool.
A needle is a small wire of steel, with a sharp point at one end,
and a hole at the other.
18
 Needles are sharps, betweens, and blunts. Sharps are used for
millinery, for light weight cloth, and for basting. Blunts and
betweens are used for heavy weight cloth.
Use the best quality. Never use a bent needle.
Use Nos. 30 and 40 thread with No. / needles.
Use Nos. 40 and 50 thread with No. 8 needles.
Use Nos. 60 and 70 thread with No. 9 needles.
Use Nos. 80 and 90 thread with No. 10 needles.
Use Nos. 90 and 100 thread with No. 11 needles.
Use No. 100 and finer threads with No. 12 needles.
Use thread to match in size the thread of the material.
Use thread no longer than the arm. Thread for button-holes
may be two-thirds of that length. Never bite or break the thread
from a garment.
A small knot in the thread is allowable when it can be hidden.
To prevent kinking, make the knot on the end that breaks from the

spool. Silk thread should be fastened securely.

A class needle-book can be made by folding up one inch of a
five-inch square of felt, and stitching places for different sizes of
needles. Mark the number above each place, and finish the edge
with blanket-stitch.

MODELS.
Paper patterns of the models are cut by the pupils, and the
edges are turned and folded as directed. Bias folds are cut from
newspapers or striped paper. Calico, gingham, and colored paper
are used for thefirst practice in cutting. The narrow blade of the
shears held below the material to be cut.
is A
pupil is taught to
hold the point toward herself when passing a needle, knife, or
shears to others. drawn on the board, and
The models are

explained by the teacher before they are made, and by true pupil
19
 afterward. The calico, gingham, and cotton used are of medium
quality. Make patterns of firm gingham, or use the first model cut,
to secure exactness. It should be marked for that purpose.
The models are carefully cut by the teacher, orby advanced
pupils under her supervision. Strips for the models are torn length-
wise. Remove the selvedge, measure carefully, allow for threads
that will ravel, cut %inch slash by the thread, and tear off a

strip. When the models are used for practice, they are cut
at agarment factory. In this course, the stitches are practiced on
simple articles for use until the desired standard is reached. When
the models are made, paste or pin them in a book, and write above
each its number and the page that explains it. Use the right hand
pages of the Manila leaves for the models, and the left for best

practice work. Place samples of the material used on the first page.

COMBINATION OF GRADED COURSE WITH PRACTICE

WORK.
The fabric used for practice in learning stitches is graded from
coarse to fine. They are taught in groups of two or three on articles
that are suitable for the skill acquired.
The following outline includes such as are easily prepared and
will suggest others.

PART FIRST.

squares and strips of colored paper, rags for

Practice cutting

weaving and patterns of the models in Part First.

MODEL I is on a bright strip of calico, with dots ^ inch apart,

through which the needle passes. It pleases the child, and is some-

thing that she can do, and is to do exactly as directed. By the

time these stitches are taken, she will know what % of an inch is,
.and this knowledge will help her measure with her eyes and to baste
20
with ^ inch stitches. The manufacture of cotton cloth is explained
and a hand loom is shown, on which is a warp partly woven with
wool, raffia, or fine rags to illustrate warp, woof, and selvedge, as

they are to become familiar terms.

PRACTICE FOR MODELS 2, 3, and 4. OVERHANDING AN^

OVERCASTING. Overhanding is the best practice to develop skill

with the needle.

Make French hems on towels and light-colored calico dust-
cloths. The French hem is basted, turned back to the line for the
hem, and overhanded. Overhand the patches for a doll's quilt for
first attempts and vary the size by joining four or five, or many more,

according to the skill acquired. Turn the edges back evenly ^ of

an inch, baste in ^
inch stitches, and overhand. this practice A^r
in handling the needle, a sofa-pillow cover in turkey red and bright
blue calico may be overhanded in strips or squares. The cloth is cut
at a garment factory in 2^ by 5 inch lengthwise strips. Alternate
the colors and overhand the ends together with four strips in the first
row, and a half strip at each end of the second row, to form a brick
pattern. In joining the half pieces, care is taken to have the warps
parallel. Four strips, ^ yard in width, torn across the cloth, will
make ruffles for the four sides of each pillow cover, if the corners
are left
open. Double the ruffles or hem them, gather each with a
double thread in two rows of fine running stitches, baste to the cover
and sew in half-backstitch. Sew the back on afterward to make the
work easier for hand sewing.
PILLOW COVER DESIGN FOR CHILDREN'S WORK. Alternate
and overhand three blue and four red 2^/2 inch squares to form a
strip. Four of these strips and three of same size in blue are joined
by backstitch, after the ruffles are made. Give lessons in hemming
and in running stitch on simple articles. Make the ruffles as above
and join the parts of the cover. (See pages, 72, 99.)
21
 Other articles may be substituted to provide the necessary
practice in overhanding, if more desirable, and the work may
be varied by making sachet, thimble and button bags of silk with silk
thread. Make pincushions of flowered sateens or other fancy goods
cut square or heart-shaped. Baste the edges separately, lay batting
between the sides to fill lightly, baste for overhanding and handle
carefully. Make book covers of coarse linen or cretonne. Practice
overcasting on ruled paper, cut off, and repeat until some progress
is made.

Make Models I to 4, and overcast them.

PRACTICE FOR MODELS 5 AND 6. RUNNING AND TUCKING.
Practice position of hands, by sewing on a fold of cloth.
Make double o-r threefold washcloths of cheesecloth. Baste,
and join 'with running stitch, turn, run the
opening together,
and ornament the edges with two or three rows of running
stitch in blue thread. Make initials in running stitch and sew on a
hanger.
Baste and run hems in cheesecloth dust-cloths. When finished,
baste themaker's name on each, and place in the care of the
teacher, to be feather-stitched later as practice for Model 23. Make
bags of soft material, to hold soiled handkerchiefs, dust-cloths, or
the weekly darning. Sew the sides, and spaces for the draw-strings,
in running and
stitch, overcast the raw edges. Leave an opening
on each side for the tapes. Overhand the hems before running the
spaces. Run hems on cheap, sheer lawn for handkerchiefs. Make
a doll's apron of the same, 6x7 inches in size. Run y& inch hems
at the sides, a }4 inch hem at the top to be drawn up with ribbon
and an inch hem at the bottom. Ornament the with a simple^,
latter

design in running stitch. This is made by children in place of the

running model, (a) and (b).
5 (See page 72.)
Make Models 5 and 6.
22
 PRACTICE FOR MODELS 7 AND 8. HEMMING. Hem towels
and kitchen aprons. Hem blue or red ruffles for the sofa pillows,
sheets and pillow cases for a child's bed, and handkerchiefs. A
square of 40 inch India linon will make nine handkerchiefs. This
is also a practical width for aprons. Hem plain aprons of all kinds,
from coarse to fine. Hem
the tops to carry ties of ribbon or tape.
Adoll's apron of the given size is hemmed at the top to carry

a ribbon. The bottom is hemmed on the right side and turned up

\y2 inches to form a row of four pockets.
Make Models 7 and 8.

PRACTICE FOR MODEL 9. HEM-STITCHING. Hem-stitch hand

towels, bands of scrim for collars and cuffs, sheets and pillow cases
of coarse, loosely-woven cotton or butcher's linen for doll's bed,
centerpiece and napkins of same material for doll's table, and
hem-stitch tray cloths. Ruffles for doll's underskirts may be hemmed
or hem-stitched.
Make Model 9.

PART SECOND.
PRACTICE FOR MODELS 10 TO 14. BACKSTITCHING, HALF-
BACKSTITCHING, COMBINATION STITCHES, GATHERING AND GAUG-
ING. Backstitch duck or denim holders, beanbags, or other articles
of coarse material. Stitch the outlines of a design on a 5 inch square
of firm, unbleached cotton. Bind circular button bags to be drawn
up from opposite sides. They can be opened wide when needed.
A doll now introduced. Garments are fitted to it, which are
is

given to the makers when finished. Join the parts of doll's gored
skirt with French seams, make and lay the gathers, and join the
ruffle with a faced hem. Use placket Model 13 (a). Make and
lay gathers of skirt, and put on the band. Make children's drawers
with flat fell (see Illustration 14), and 13 (b} plackets. Put on
23
bands and baste the hems. They can be hemmed for busy work,
while pupils are waiting for the attention of the teacher, and will
supply practice later for button-holes. Dolls', or infants', plain
nightgowns may take the place of the children's drawers, or be
made for additional practice. To make infant's pique shoes and
slippers, backstitch a double bias fold of lawn along the edges and
hem the folded edge of the bias strip on the wrong side to form a
narrow binding around the parts. Overhand them together. Doll's
waists with drawers to button on, are Models 29 and 30. Make
them after the above practice and finish with buttons and button^
holes, after practice for Model 15.
Make Models 10 to 14.

PRACTICE FOR MODEL 1

5 . BUTTON-HOLES. Button-holes are
made on a strip of firm bleached cotton, 2x6 inches. Fold length-
wise, trim and overcast the raw edges, and buttonhole the folded
edge. Cut ^2 inch button-holes, one inch apart, in the strip, and
work them. This practice may be used for a contest. Make
button-holes on the drawers and on the doll's garments. Give as
much practice as is necessary.
Make Model 15.
MODELS 1 6, 17, AND 18. MATCHING AND MENDING. These
models are practiced on the gingham squares until satisfactory.

MODELS 19 AND Gussets and nightshirt fronts are omit-

20.
ted by children and taught later with garment making.

PART THIRD.
PRACTICE FOR MODEL 21. WEAVING AND DARNING. Weave
on looms. They may be made of cardboard, 4x5 inches in size,
with holes punched at each end to hold the warp in place. Practice

darning on light colored stockinet, and tie square knots on the

24
holders with several coarse threads in a large needle. Teach the
square knot with a large, soft cord.
Make Model 21.

MODEL 22. FRENCH HEM AND DARNING ON TABLE LINEN.

Practice the French hems on napkins and towels. Darning on linen
is omitted by children.
Make Model 22.

PRACTICE ^FOR MODEL 23. FEATHER-STITCH AND OTHER

FANCY STITCHES. Feather-stitch a lengthwise strip of dotted cloth
and the dust-cloths. If the calico dust-cloths are dotted the dots
may be followed on the lengthwise sides. Feather-stitch dust-cloths,
the of the sofa pillow covers, the doll's sheets and pillow
ruffles

cases, and the other articles that have been made.

Children, omit (b) and (c) of Model 23, fagoting.

Make Model 23.

PRACTICE FOR MODELS 24 AND 25. SLIP-STITCH, PURL EDGE,

DARNING ON CASHMERE, BLANKET, FLANNEL, AND CAT STITCHES.
Make holes in piece of cashmere and darn them, stamp and em-
broider bottoms of doll's flannel skirts. Sew the seams with two
running stitches and a backstitch, press them open and fasten with
a row of flannel-stitch on each side. To make the plackets, fold
back y? inch on the %
inch on the right sides, and
left sides, and
cat-stitch the raw edges to hold them. See Model 13 (a). Pleat
and finish with bands, buttons and button-holes. Make a heart-
shaped sachet or pincushion. Baste the edges of the top and bot-
tom separately, place the cotton and sachet between, baste the
edges together, and finish with blanket-stitch. Make the blanket-
stitch on the leaves and covers of a needle-book.
Make Models 24 and 25.
25
 PRACTICE FOR MODEL 26. CROSS-STITCHING. Cross-stitch
initials on doll's garments and sheets.
Make Model 26.

PRACTICE FOR MODEL 27. ROLLED RUFFLE AND GATHERS.

Overhand lace on handkerchiefs. Make ruffle for doll's dress.
Model 27 is omitted by children.
MODEL 28. DOLL'S GORED SKIRT.
MODEL 29. DOLL'S UXDERWAIST.
MODEL 30. DOLL'S DRAWERS.
MODEL 31. DOLL'S FLANNEL SKIRT.
MODEL 32. DOLL'S DRESS.
Model 27 has been omitted, the ruffle
If for the dress may be
hemmed, hem-stitched, or feather-stitched.

Illustration 2. Both sides of a matched seam.

A Section of Model 3.

This seam shows in a line down the center. The top of the
pieces joined is folded over to show the wrong side. The right side
of the seam extends below and may be seen if looked for closely.
A patch carefully inserted in this way escapes the eye.
26
 PART FIRST.
Division I. Basting, Overhanding, and Overcasting.

MODEL i. BASTING.
A lengthwise strip of bright red calico,
5x7 inches, with white or
black dots, ^ Fold through the middle, parallel with
inch apart.
the warp on a row of dots, and hold the two sides together evenly
with a row of ^ inch basting stitches taken close to the raw edge
of the long side, to be removed when the model is ready for over-

casting. If the pupil has had no practice in sewing, this piece is

prepared as above and placed in her

hands, with the folded edge held up,
the knot on the under side, and the
needle in the second row of dots.
Baste closely for hand work,
with stitches of such length as the

Illustration 3. A Section of Model I. Illustration 4. Hands in position for overhanding.

27
material requires. All basting should be done evenly. Cut basting
threads freely before removing them.

MODEL 2. OVERHANDING.
Two 2x4 inches, in contrasting colors. Two
pieces of calico,
pieces of cotton, 2x4 inches-.
(a) Fold back one side of each piece of calico j\ of an inch,
lay the right sides together, and baste with % inch stitches. Hold
the work in the left hand, between the forefinger slightly curved
and the thumb held straight. Hide the knot under the fold, point
the needle directly toward you, and sew from right to left. Practice
until the stitches are made fine, even, and close to the edge. To
avoid knots, after the practice has been given, overcast the ends of
the thread with the seam.

(b} Repeat on cotton and overcast.

Use No. 60 red thread and No. 9 needle for overhanding and
overcasting the cotton model.
Fasten the thread by passing it under the point of the needle
when the last stitch is taken, or sew two or three stitches in the
same place.

MODEL 3. MATCHED EDGES OVERHANDED.

Two pieces of striped gingham or calico, 2x4 inches. The
stripes should cross the pieces, be equi-distant from each end, and
be joined to match. Follow directions of Model 2 for overhanding.

MODEL 4. WARP AND WOOF. OVERCASTING.

Four pieces of calico, 2% inches square, two of them of a

light, and two of contrasting color.

Plain, bright-colored cottons may be used. Striped cotton is

not used in this model, as lines would denote the warp, which the
pupil is required to determine for herself.
28
 Illustration 5. A Section of Model 4. Illustration 6. Warp (a). Woof

Form by alternating the two colors, with warp parallel

a square

to warp. Follow previous directions for overhanding. Practice

overcasting on ruled paper. Cut off and repeat until satisfactory,

after which overcast the Models of Division I in colored thread.

Overcast }i inch stitches, ^ inch from the raw edges. When

a new thread is required, fasten the end that remains, at the back,
29
where the next stitch is to be taken, bring it through, and continue
as before.

Division II. Running and Tucking-.

MODEL 5. RUNNING STITCH.

Cotton, 2>^x6 inches.
Calico, gingham, or white corded dimity, 5 inches square, with
hair stripe y& inch apart.

(rt)
A
design is drawn on the cotton by the pupil, to be
outlined in running stitch. Turn the edges back, and finish with
flannel-stitch. (See Model 25, and Illustration 34, No. 8.)
(b) Overcast the square in % inch stitches, }i inch from the
edge. Start at one corner, % inch from the edge, and run six
squares, one within the other, }i inch apart, making fine stitches
midway between the stripes, and y& inch stitches, when sewing
across them, under one stripe and over the next. Straighten each
side as directed below.
See combina-
*

Children substitute a doll's apron for this model.

tion of course with practice work.

Illustration 7. A Corner of Model 5.

Illustration 8. Hands in position for running.

30
 RUNNING SEAM. Take up two or three running stitches, then
hold the edge of the cloth and the needle with the right thumb and
forefinger, and push the needle with the thimble, while the left

thumb and forefinger holds the cloth before the point.

Illustration 9. Design in running stitch.

A
pupil should practice on strips of cloth, and sew, without a
knot in her thread, until she can hold the work in her hands
properly, and push the needle with her thimble. Before she makes
the model, she should learn to make fine, even stitches, with her
hands held in the right position. Begin running stitch by sewing
one stitch over another, and finish in the same way.
To avoid puckering the work, begin at the right hand side
before fastening the thread, and smooth the thread from right to left

between the left thumb and forefinger before fastening it.

MODEL 6. TUCKING.
Checked gingham, 5 inches square, cut by the check.
Calico, 5x8 inches, with figures having direction.

(#) Tuck the gingham by the check, tucking the alternate

dark rows of checks.
(#) Ravel a thread from each edge of the calico, to be sure
that it is straight. If it does not seem to be straight, stretch it

diagonally until it is. See that the figures are upright, and crease
the edge of the first tuck, I ^ inches from the bottom of the strip.
31
Make % inch tucks, with y2
inch spaces between the stitchings.
This will bring the bottom of each tuck on a line with the stitching
of the tuck below it.

Illustration IO. (a) Hands in position for tucking in fine running stitches
($) Measure for Tucks.

Cut a measure, which includes the width of the tuck and the
space between the stitchings. Cut the width of the tuck on it. To
make a fold for the bottom of the next tuck, measure in two places
and crease between.
Give the designs on cloth the same direction when joining the
parts of a garment, and see that they are right side up.

Division III, Hemming: and Hem-stitching;.

MODEL 7. HEMMING. MITRED CORNER.

Striped gingham, or calico, 2x4 inches.
Cotton, 6x8 inches.
(a) The stripes should cross the model, and be hemmed
exactly on the stripes to which they belong.
Turn % inch hem. Use No. 70 thread and No. 9 needle.
(b) Fold inch hems on all sides of the cotton piece on the
long sides first. Mitre the corners at one end of the model. Use a
measuring card, crease the folds, and cut the superfluous cloth from
the cor^c?rs. Baste these hems with % inch stitches. The sewing
should show as little as possible on the right side.
To start a new thread, take a stitch back of the last one and
hide the ends under the fold. Finish the hem by
taking two or
three stitches over each other, or by sewing through a loop of the
thread.

Illustration n (a). Hands in position for hemming.

Illustration n The hem carried between the second and third fingers.

The hem should be held between the left thumb and forefinger

until several inches have been hemmed, then passed over the first
and second fingers and under the third, but never over one finger.
The second and third fingers are used to pull the work over the
forefinger as the stitches are taken. The hemming must never be
curved over the forefinger at the place where the needle is inserted.
Slant the needle as nearly on a line with the hem as possible.
A mitred corner is formed by making a diagonal seam from the
33
outside to the inside corner of the hem. (See illustration 12, a and
b.) Make a paper model. Fold the hem, open the folds, and fold
the corner at right angles on the line a-b. Cut the corner off on
the dotted line ^
inch from a-b. Replace the folds as in Illustra-
tion 12 (). Fold and cut the cloth in the same manner, and over-
hand the diagonal seam. (Illustration 12, b.)

Illustration 12. (a) Mitred corner open. Mitred corner, cut and folded.

Wide hems and hems on woolen cloth should have both folds
basted.
MODEL 8. EXTENSION AND FACED HEMS.
5 inches square.
Cotton,
Twopieces of cotton, cut crosswise, from a 5 inch square.
Join the strips in running stitch to each end of the first piece,
with warp parallel to warp.
(a)FACED HEM. Turn one of the joined pieces up the full
width and make a blind hem. Baste, take up two threads of the
cloth, and pass the needle }i inch inside the fold. Draw through
and start the next stitch at the end of the last.

34
 (b) EXTENSION HEM. Turn the second piece up half way
and hem to the seam.
A bias facing should be used on a curved edge. When sewing
on a facing by hand, hold it toward you. A binding is a narrow
extension hem.

MODEL 9. PILLOW CASE. HEM-STITCHING.

Cotton, 6x7 inches, with selvedge on one of the long sides.
Measure 2>^ inches along the selvedge for width of hem, and
draw five threads of the woof. Turn the raw edges at the top and
side, baste and overhand the pillow case on the outside before the
hem is The selvedge is used on the side of the pillow case.
turned.
Baste the hem on a line with the drawn threads, hold the work
lengthwise over the left forefinger and between the left thumb and
second finger, and work from left to right.
Mtdet/e Tfrtrd,

Illustration 13. Square folded into thirds for cutting.

35
 Use No. 70 thread and No. 9 needle. Hide the knot under the
fold, take up four threads with the needle, draw it through, put the
needle in again at the first of the four threads, and take a stitch
through the cloth and the folded edge. Draw the thread through
forward and downward. When extra strength is required, take a
stitch between each cluster.
To make
a knotted hem-stitch, use colored thread, and pass it

under the needle as it comes through the folded edge, and take a
stitch between each cluster. It is made on the right side.

36
 PART SECOND.
Division IV. Bacfcstitching and Combination Stitches.

MODEL 10. BACKSTITCHING, HALF-BACKSTITCHING, AND FELLING.

Cotton, 5 inches square. Cotton, 2^x5 inches, cut lengthwise.
Firm, unbleached cotton, 5 inches square, for design in back-
stitch (Seepages 100, 101.)
Fold the edge back and finish with flannel stitch. (Page 63.)
A backstitch is taken back to form a continuous line of stitches.
A half-backstitch is taken half way back. Illustration 14.

Fold the first square lengthwise, and cut as directed in Illustra-

tion 13.
Draw a thread of the warp % inch from the edge on the straight
side of one of these Backstitch on this line to join the
sections.

oblong piece, and overcast the seam. Join the bias edges with half
backstitch. Have upper edge wider, and baste evenly close to the
narrow edge. Sew the seam with the wider edge toward you.
Turn the extra width over the narrow edge and hem, so as to cover
both edges and form a flat fell. Pink the edges by clipping them
when held up and over the end of the forefinger between the thumb
and second finger. With practice, this can be done rapidly.
Counter-felling is used in machine sewing, to join parts of
garments where a strong seam is required. For example the side :

seams of under-waists. Make a ^

inch fold on the wrong side of
one edge be joined, and one on the right side of the other edge.
to
Place them together, so that the raw edges will be inside, and the
37
Illustration 14. Represents Model 10.
38
width of the seam will The folded edges are stitched, if
be ^ inch.
and hemmed, if made by hand.
the garment is made by machine,
Double-felling is used when a flat seam
is required. Make a
narrow hem on each side of the edges to be joined, and overhand
the edges of hems, or stitch a seam and hem the edges back on each
side of it.

Models 10 and 1 1
represent:
1. Two straight edges joined with
a backstitch.

2. Two bias edges joined with a half-backstitch.

3. A bias and a straight edge joined with two running and a

half-backstitch.

Illustration 15. Represents Model

n.

MODEL u. A FRENCH SEAM.

Cotton, 5 inches square.
Fold and cut the square as directed in Model 10. Join a bias
to a straight edge, lay the narrow ends together, hold the bias edge
39
 v x -

* .
>

Illustration 16.
Hemming gathers on a band.
Illustration
17. The wrong side of gauging partly attached to a band.
40
toward you, join with two running stitches and a half-backstitch
in white thread, trim the edges, turn, and sew with the same stitch

in red thread.
Use No. 60 thread and No. 8 needle.

MODEL 12. GATHERING AND GAUGING.

Cotton, 5 inches square.
Twolengthwise pieces of cotton: 2*^x1^ inches, band for
gathering; i^ inches square, band for gauging.
Use No. 50 thread and No. 8 needle for gathering and
gauging.
Use No. 70 thread and No. 9 needle for hemming.
Hem the sides that are parallel with the warp, double the
thread for both gathering and gauging, cut it a little longer than the
bands, and take the stitches evenly.
(a) Gather % inch from the edge, parallel with the woof, and
do not draw the needle through until all of the stitches are taken.
To lay the gathers, draw them so that they will lie closely together
without crowding, insert a pin, and wind the thread about it. Use a
No, 6 needle, begin at the left side, and stroke the gathers straight
downward, with care not to injure the fabric, and lay them closely
between the left thumb and fore-finger. Draw the gathers the size
of the band and hold as directed above. Hem each gather to the
right side of the band, or hold the gathers toward you and backstitch
them. When the gathers are sewed in place, take the pin out and
fasten the gathering thread.

(b) Gauge thismodel opposite the gathers. Fold back %

inch,
and crease. Make the stitches ^j inch long, with ^
inch spaces,
make the first row y& inch from the fold, and the rows %
inch apart.
Turn the edges of the band, fold, baste, and overhand the ends.
Overhand each stitch of the gauging to the band.
41
Illustration 18. (<z) Represents Model 12. Children's model.

() Shield for fore-finger of left hand. Used by needle-women.

 To lay gathers in thin cloth that hasdressing in it, fill the
needle with stitches, and press them tightly together before drawing
them through. On soft, thin cloth, make two rows of gathers.

Illustration 19. Joining a gauged strip of cloth to a band in overhand stitch.

Illustration 20. Stitches | inch, and spaces | inch, for full gauging.

Gauging is used to draw a large quantity into a small space.

The stitches are longer than for gathering, and two or three rows are
made, which are directly under each other.
Bands are cut lengthwise. When extra strength is required,
cut them longer and fold the ends back to stay the button-holes.
Children omit the gauging on Model 12, make an inch hem in
its place and add ties of narrow tape to represent an apron.

MODEL 13. PLACKETS FOR SKIRTS AND DRAWERS.

Cotton, 5 inches square.
Cotton, 45^x1 inch, for band of second placket.
Third the square and cut a 2 inch slash down each fold. (See
Illustration 13.)
43
 (a) Make % inch hem on one side of the first opening, a narrow
hem on the other side, and fasten the wider hem over the other,
with two rows of stitching across the angle of the opening.

Illustration 21. Model 14

44:
 (b) Bind the secondopening with the band, fold back the side
to be lapped, and extend the other side under it.

Illustration 22 (a). Basted Bleats.

Illustration 22 (). Bias strips. Join by overhanding the selvedge edges or by a narrow seam.

MODEL 14. PLACKETS FOR DRESSES.

Cotton, 5 inches square.

Cotton, 2^x i inch, for facing the first placket.
Cotton, 23^ x \Yz inches, for extension hem of second placket.
(a) Make a faced hem on the upper side, and an extension
hem on the under side. Fasten the angle as directed above.
(b) Make a narrow hem on both edges of the second opening,

and fold back ^ inch on the side to be lapped over. Lay the right
side of the hems together, and stitch a half circle on the wrong side
to fasten the angle of the opening.

45
 Division V.

MODEL 15. BUTTON-HOLES, EYELETS, THREAD-EYES, AND SEW-

ING ON TAPES, BUTTONS, HOOKS AND EYES.

A lengthwise piece of firm cotton, 2x6 inches, for practice.

Two lengthwise pieces of the same, 2x4 inches.
A button-hole is cut on the line of a thread, and curved around
the front end to hold the shank of the button. The back is
straight,
and is held together by a bar of several threads that is covered

by sewing over and over them, or by working them with button-

hole stitch. A button-hole is cut the width of the button to be
used.
Button-holes are cut with button-hole scissors or with a chisel.
A ticket punch is sometimes used to cut the round hole at the front.

In light or medium weight cloth, this may be done with a bodkin

before the button-hole is cut, and the threads clipped that are dis-

placed around the hole.

Overcast with very fine thread, so that the surface of the
button-hole will be smooth. When a coarse thread or twist is used
to strengthen a button-hole, it is
put through from the wrong side,
at the end farthest from the edge of the garment and carried around
the second and third fingers of the left hand to hold it tight while
the button-hole is worked over it. A heavy thread to work the but-
ton-hole over may be carried from the back to the front, fastened
there with one stitch and carried back to the starting point. Using
thread to stay a button-hole is called cording. Take another thread,
when that in the needle isnot long enough to make a complete
button-hole. The stitches should be taken along the line of a thread

keep them even.

in the cloth, to
Double the strip of cotton lengthwise, baste, and practice
button-holing on the folded edge. Cut button-holes I inch apart in
46
the strips for practice, and begin at the back that is, at the end
farthest from the fold hold up the edge to be worked between the
left thumb andforefinger, draw the thread through to the edge, take
a stitchand pass the thread from left to right under the point of the
needle, as in Illustration 34, No. 4, and draw the needle through
coward you at right angles to the button-hole, then draw the thread
up evenly, so that the purl will be on the edge.
Make the stitches close on the sides, curved around the front,
and make a bar across the back.
Overcast the first button-holes. Overcast and cord them when
some skill is acquired.

SEWING ON BUTTONS. Knot the ends of a double thread, and

put the needle through the cloth from the upper side to hide the
knot under the button. Place a large pin across the button to sew
over, draw the thread down loosely until the holes are filled, bring
the needle through to the right side under the button, remove the

pin, wind the thread several times tightly between the button and
the cloth to form a shank, return the needle to the back, and fasten
the thread.
To sew on a fancy button of four holes, carry the thread from
each of the three holes to one hole, making that the center of three
branches.
Some buttons are made with two holes through which a round,
woven cord is passed. The ends of the cord are put through an

eyelet in the garment and fastened at the back, or a fold of the

material is stitched over them. This is done when a long shank is

required.
Turn the edges of the 2x4 inch bands, double each lengthwise,
baste, and overhand.
(a) Make a J4 inch button-hole at one end of the first band,
near the folded edge, and sew a button at the other end.
47
 Illustration 23. Button-hole in process of making.

Illustration 24. Represents (<z) and () of Model 20.

48
 (b} Sew a hook on one end of the second band and an eye on
the other, in button-hole stitch. (See Illustration 24.)

(c) Thread-eyes are bars made of thread and button-holed.

They are used to receive hooks or buttons.
Form bars for them by taking stitches to the right and to the
left of a % inch space, and cover with button-hole stitches.

(d} Eyelets are round holes worked in a garment for ornament

or to receive a cord. The holes are made with a bodkin or punch,
or cut with scissors.
Make two eyelets, 2 inches apart at the top of the back-
stitched design of Model 10, to hold picture cord or ribbon.
Wax a double thread for sewing buttons on garments not to be
washed.
Use brass hooks and eyes for wash goods. Test them with a
magnet.
If the strain comes on the side of a button-hole, make a
bar at both ends. The button-hole band should be near the
of a

gathers, to be on a line with the strain. The thread should be

the size of that in the cloth, and shorter than is used in other

sewing.
As button-holes require a great deal of practice, they are taught
in separate classes.

Division VI.

MODEL 16. BIAS AND CORNER MATCHING.

Gingham, -5 inches square.

(a) Cut a right-angle triangle from the gingham. To do this,
begin at middle of one side and cut diagonally through the checks
across one corner, fold back the cut edges to match, see that the

warp is parallel, and overhand.

49
Illustration 25. Gingham matched. Represents Model 16.

50
Illustration 26. Cloth prepared for Models 17 and 18.

51
 (^) Cut a 2 inch square from the opposite corner, fold back
the edges to a color line in the gingham, match the square in place
as in illustration 25, and overhand.

MODEL 17. OVERHAND PATCH.

Two pieces of checked gingham :
5 inches square ; 4 inches
square.
Cut from the center of the first a 2 inch square, clip the corners
of theopening on the bias, fold back the edges to a color line in the
gingham, fold back the edges of the second piece to match, baste
one side at a time, and overhand. Trim and overcast the raw edges
of the patch and of the opening.
inch, baste, and hem it to the back of the model. When finished,
the patch should extend ^ inch beyond the hemmed edge of the
opening.

Division VII. Nightshirt Front and Gussets.

MODEL 19. NIGHTSHIRT FRONT AND SHIRTWAIST SLEEVES.

Cotton, 5 inches square.
Two lengthwise pieces of cotton: 1x3 inches for faced hem,
and 2^x3 inches for extension hem.
Double the square parallel with the warp, and cut a 2*/2 inch
slash through the fold. Clip this opening at the angle, as in Illus-
tration 28. Make a faced hem on the right for buttons, and an
extension hem on the left for button-holes. The extension hem
should be joined so as to fold back on the upper side beyond the
seam. Draw a thread near each edge of this fold. Backstitch on
these lines and twice across the fold at the angle of the opening.
Make two button-holes, each ^
inch in size, on the extension
hem, and sew buttons to match on the faced hem.

"'1
Illustration 30. Represents Model 20.

54
 Turn all the edges of the i% inch square, cut off the corners
that are not needed and would make the work thick, double the
square into a triangle, baste, insert the right angle of it into one of

the openings, and overhand in place.

Illustration 31. (a) and ().

Gusset cut of paper, and wrong side of a finished gusset.

($)Cut and make the second gusset in paper before making it

in cloth.Turn the edges of the 2 inch square, fold the opposite
corners over so that their straight sides will measure I inch, cut off
one of these corners, overhand the other corner into the opening,
baste what remains of the square to the back of the model,
and hem.
A gusset is used to strengthen the angle of an opening.
55
 LIST OF STITCHES.
Backstitch

Basting
Blanket-stitch .

Blind Hem on Cotton

Button-hole
Cat-stitch
Chain-stitch
Cross-stitch .

Darning .

Darning on Cashmere
Fagoting .

Feather-stitch
Flannel-stitch .

French Hem
Gathering
 PART THIRD.
Division VIIL Darning.

MODEL 21. WEAVING ON CARDBOARD AND DARNING ON

STOCKINET.
Cardboard and stockinet, 2x3 inches.
Practice on small cardboard looms if school looms are not
provided.
Doll's Rug. Mount a warp of carpet twine on a loom or weav-
ing frame. A thin needle is made of wooddrawto in the woof and
press it down. An inch strip of cardboard, woven in first, makes a
brace for the woof and retains one inch of the warp for tying.

(<?) Cover i inch square of the center of the cardboard with

bars of woolen yarn. Weave the yarn through them to imitate
cloth. Wax the end of zephyr to be threaded into a round-eyed
needle ;
fold over the end for a zephyr needle.
(b) Darn a piece of stockinet.

MODEL 22. FRENCH HEM, AND DARNING ON TABLE LINEN.

Canvas, 3 inches square.
Table linen, 5 inches square.
(a) Button-hole the edge of the canvas with zephyr or silk, and
darn a twilled square, I inch in size, in the center. The warp
threads are taken on the needle, two and two, each two being made
up of one under thread and one over thread, so as to form a twill.
Children overcast the canvas for this model.
57
 Teach the square knot with a large, soft cord.
Make holders, and tie them with square knots.

Illustration 32 (a). Twilled weave and square knot. Illustration 32 (). Square knot.

(d) Draw threads for cutting the linen. Fold inch hems, %
cut superfluous cloth from corners, turn back, baste, and overhand
closely. Use No. 80 thread and No. 9 needle. Fold the model
into four sections,measure I inch square on one of them, cut it half
out and darn in place. Cut %
inch square from the diagonal sec-
tion and darn it in plain or twilled weave.
Worn napkins of good quality may be used. Darn with fine

linen floss, or with threads drawn from the warp of new linen.
sometimes better to wash linen, or wet it in soap-suds, and
It is

dry without
it rinsing, before hemming it or drawing threads. Rub
the sharp edge of a piece of hard soap on threads that are to be drawn.
Darning, cross-stitch and feather-stitch are taught in a special

class.
58
 STITCHES ON ILLUSTRATION 33.
1. Right side of Flannel-stitch. 8. French Dots.
2. Running Outline Stitch. 9, 10. Feather-stitch.
3. Kensington Stitch. II. Chain-stitch.
4> 5 o> 7- Varieties in Chain-stitch.

6
Illustration 33.
78
Stitches.
10 u

STITCHES ON ILLUSTRATION 34. PAGE 60.

i. Chain-stitch. 10. Running and

2 and 3. Feather-stitch. Half-backstitch.
4. Button-hole Stitch. 11. Half-backstitch.
5. Herring-bone Stitch. 12. Backstitch.
6. Purl Edge. 13. Hemming.
7. Blanket-stitch. 14. Basting.
8. Flannel-stitch. 15. Overcasting.
9. Cat-stitch. 1 6. Running.

59
Illustration 34. Stitches named on page 61,

60
 Division IX* Fancy Stitches*

MODEL 23. CHAIN, FEATHER, HERRING-BONE, KENSINGTON,

OUTLINE AND FAGOTING STITCHES.
Heavy unbleached cotton or butcher's linen, 5 inches square.
Sheer linen or lawn, 7 inches square.
CHAIN-STITCH. (See Illustration 34. No. i.) Use red mark-
ing cotton. Fasten the thread, hold it down to the left, put the
needle in at the end of the last stitch, and sew through the loop.
FEATHER-STITCH. (See Illustration 34. Nos. 2 and 3.)
Hold the thread as in chain-stitch, and follow the designs.
HERRING-BONE STITCH. A feather-stitch, with longer arms
and shorter leaves. (See Illustration 34. No. 5.) These stitches
can be learned on paper or dotted calico.
KENSINGTON STITCH is a backstitch made backward instead of
forward, each stitch passing the last so as to form a double line of
stitches. (See Illustration 33.)
RUNNING OUTLINE STITCH is made by passing a thread through
each one of a row of running stitches. (See Illustration 33.)
FAGOTING is cat-stitching or making bundles of thread between
two edges of cloth. It is also an openwork stitch made on sheer
linen or muslin. (See Illustrations 35 and 36.)
(a) Draw
a single thread from each side of the linen, inch ^
from the edges, and chain-stitch on the lines. Fold the edges back
}i inch, and hold them in place with flannel-stitch. (See Illustration
34. No. 8.) the
Fill center with patterns of feather-stitching.
Any small article which illustrates these stitches will represent
this model.
(^) Make a doily of the 7 inch square by running a row of
stitches one inch from the edge and another in a circle around the

centre, 4^ inches in diameter. The hem is attached after the, work

is done. Use 100 thread and a No. 4 needle. The running stitches
61
 Illustration 35 (<:). Thread drawn closely after each stitch.

Illustration 35 (a}. Method of

fagoting on lawn, enlarged.

I J
Illustration 35 (6). Fagoting with fine thread on Illustration 36. Fagoting with coaise
Sheer Lawn. thread to join bands.
62
are a guide and centre line for the work. (See Illustration 35 tf.)
Take up a stitch (a) to (V), sew through twice, and once from (#)
to (V). Sew through (/;) to (d) twice and once from (c) to (d).
When used on a straight line, two threads may be drawn for guides.
Fagoting is used for hems, simple designs and initials.

MODEL 24. SLIP-STITCH OR BLIND HEM, PURL EDGE OR

DARNING ON CASHMERE.
Cashmere, 4x5 inches.

SLIP-STITCH OR BLIND HEM. Fold, baste, and take up as

little of the cloth withthe needle as possible, pass a long stitch
inside the fold, and begin the next where the last one ends.

PURL EDGE. Make a running stitches, fasten the

line of

thread at the left, take the stitches closely together over the line
and at right angles to and carry the thread from the last stitch
it,

under the needle. (See Illustration 34. No. 6.) Baste on oil-
cloth while working the edge.
Make a bias and a right angle tear in the cashmere. Draw a
thread from the warp of the goods, wax the end to make it thread
easily, darn in fine stitches parallel with the woof, then with the

warp, weaving the thread at the back of the cloth so as to show as

little as possible on the front side.

Finish the sides with purl edge in floss. Slip-stitch a Y^ inch

hem at the ends.
A hair is used for very fine darning. Thread the needle with
the end drawn from the head.

MODEL 25. BLANKET, FLANNEL AND CAT STITCHES.

Two pieces of flannel :
4x5 inches ;
2 inches square.

BLANKET- STITCH is the same as used for purl edge, and is

made with spaces between each stitch. Practice the blanket-stitch
63
on the folded edge of cotton cloth, and on the flannel leaves of a
needle-book, and a piece of felt or broadcloth for the cover. (See
Illustration 34. No. 7.) Flannel and cat stitches are used to secure
the raw edges of flannel.

CAT-STITCH is made over the left forefinger upward, instead of

downward. Two imaginary parallel lines are followed. The stitches
are taken, first on one line, then on the other, each the width of the
stitch, higher. (See Illustration 34. No. 9.)

Illustration 37. Letters in cross-stitch.

FLANNEL-STITCH. Begin at the edge, and take two running

stitches slantingtoward the left, carry the thread on a slanting line to
the right, and take the stitches as before. (See Illustration 34. No. 8.)
Cut I inch square from the center of the first piece, baste the
second on evenly for a patch, join it on the right side with cat-stitch
64
Illustration 38. Letters in cross-stitch.

65
Illustration 39. Letters and figures in cross-stiich.

66
 Illustration 40 (a). Canvas basted on cloth for cross-stitch.

and on the back with flannel-stitch. Finish the edges of the model
with blanket-stitch.
Seams in flannel should be pressed open and the edges fastened
back with cat-stitch or flannel-stitch. A
tear in firm woolen cloth

may be mended by overhanding the torn edges in fine, close stitches

on the wrong side. Scratch the nap lightly over the seam with the
needle, dampen, and press.
'

MODEL 26. PUPIL'S NAME IN CROSS-STITCH.

The first set of stitches cross diagonally in one direction, and
the second set in the opposite direction.

Illustration 40 (). Pupil's name in cross-stitch.

67
Illus ration 41. (1) and (/> . Rolled gathers, and method of sewing them on.

68
 Division X. Rolled Hems, Rolled Gathers, and Sewing on Lace*

MODEL 27. ROLLED HEMS AND ROLLED GATHERS.

Two lengthwise pieces of cotton, 2x4 inches, with selvedge edges.
Nainsook, 1x6 inches, for a ruffle. Lace, 7 inches.
Use No. 70 thread for the first two pieces and to gather and
join the ruffle. Use No. 100 thread and No. 1 1 needle for the ruffle.
Overhand the selvedge edges, roll and hem the opposite sides,
and finish the ends with ^ inch hem at the top, and ^ inch hem at
the bottom.

Illustration 42. Sewing lace on a rolled hem.

Overhand the ruffle to the ^ inch hem. Hold the gathers

toward you, sew through each, and carry the thread between them
for the next stitch.
69
 Practice, by sewing lace on the rolled edge of a handkerchief or
a ruffle, before making the model.

Illustration 43. Represents Model 27.

Roll and hem the ends of the ruffle, roll one edge between the
left and thumb, and overhand it to the lace. Roll the
forefinger
opposite edge tightly for gathers, and sew over and over it loosely
70
for the space of an inch, and draw the thread. Roll, and continue
as before.
A rolled hem is for fine goods, and is the narrowest that is

made. If lace is to be fulled on, take two stitches in the lace to one
in the hem, or draw it with a thread.

Division XI
The following models are made for practice during the course :

MODEL 28. DOLL'S GORED SKIRT. (See Page 23.)

MODEL 29. DOLL'S UNDERWAIST. (See page 24.)
MODEL 30. DOLL'S DRAWERS. (See page 24.)
MODEL 31. DOLL'S FLANNEL SKIRT. (See Page 25.)
MODEL 32. DOLL'S DRESS. (See Page 26.)

Division XII.

Pupils who have taken this course are prepared to learn garment
making by hand or machine. Pupils in this division have had some
practice in cutting and will be able to cut plain garments from
patterns. Care should be taken to cut the cloth economically, fac-
ings with warps parallel to the parts to be faced, bands lengthwise,
and to clip all corners to be turned in.
Small pieces of a garment should be pinned together when cut,
also when the work is put away. The first piece is often used as a
pattern or measure. By using different pieces, the parts become
unequal in size. Careful attention should be paid to joining the parts
and to the needles and threads used.
A longer needle is required for running than for other work.

71
Illustration 44. Cross-stitch and other designs.

72
 DRAFTING CHILDREN'S GARMENTS
The pattern is reduced to one-quarter of the correct size. The
measurements are in inches. Take them as follows and write them
in a note book under name of child.

Neck, II. Skirt length, 18 in back, 17

Bust, measured loosely, 28. in front.

Waist, measured loosely, 26. Length of sleeve, under side,

Underarm, 7. 15, upper side, 18 or 20,

Length of back, 13. according to length of

Length of front, 13. shoulder seam.

Length of shoulder, 6. Wrist band, 8.

No allowance is made on waist pattern for seams or to lap in the

back. Two more inches of the bust measure is allowed for the front
than for the back, 15 front and 13 back equal 28 bust measure.
The waist line measures 16 in front one more than at the
bust line. 16 front and 10 back equal 26.An inch is added for
fullness. If to be gathered band and more fullness is
into a

required, cut a plain waist pattern, put the point B on the edge of
the fold and carry L back to give the fullness required, but do not

enlarge the pattern at the under arm seams for that purpose.
Use strong Manila paper for patterns. From these other sizes
can be easily cut by applying the measurements.

MEASUREMENTS FOR FRONT OF WAIST.

Measure from the left hand corner 2^ inches along the front
edge, dot and mark A-B. Measure I y2 inches along the left edge
73
liiuhiration 45. Patiern of plain \\aist drafted for eight year old child.
from A, dot and mark C. Measure 2 inches diagonally from A to
D for the curve of the neck, and draw the curved line C-D-B. Fold
a circle of paper into twenty-four sections, and use one as a guide
to slope the shoulder. Lay it edge with the point at
along the left

C and draw the 6 inch line C-E.

(This slope is also obtained by

drawing fifteen degrees of a circle. Begin 2 inches from the neck,

to curve this line upward so as to add inch on each^side of the

front to the neck size.

Measure from B to the point crossed by the bust line and

mark it F. (B-F measures 4 inches.) Measure from F at right
angles to the front, a 7^ inch line to G. Begin at the front I ^ inches
above and draw a 6 inch line,
this H-I. Curve the line from E to
Islightly and make a deep curve from I to G.
Draw a 7 inch line from G to J parallel to the front. Measure
% inch to the right from J to K and draw a slanting line from G to
K for the under arm seam.

MEASUREMENTS FOR BACK OF WAIST

Draw a 13 inch line for opening at the back, and mark A-B.
it

Measure 1^4 inches at right angles to A-B from to C. A Draw a

curved line from C to D, taking off %
inch of A-B. Fold a circle
of paper into twelve sections and use one for the slope of the
shoulder. Lay it -along the left edge with the point at C and draw
the 6 inch line, C-G. Measure 6 inches from B to E and draw a
6^ inch line from E to F, at right angles to A-B. Draw a 6 inch
lineone inch above E-F, beginning on the line A-B, and mark it
H-I. Draw a curved line through G-H-F for the back of the arm-
size. Draw
the 7 inch line F-J, parallel to E-B, also the line J-B.
Measure I inch from J toward B and mark K. Draw the line F-K
for the under arm seam. This pattern will lap slightly at the back
on a straight figure.
75
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING SLEEVE

Apply arm measurements to a pattern of the required style, to

get the different sizes. For a close fitting sleeve, take measurements
around the arm, above and below the elbow and near the shoulder;
also the length each way from the elbow. Cut the under side --
the
width of the upper, curve the top of the under arm piece slightly
and round the upper side according to the length of the shoulder,
cutting both so that the back seam is 2^ inches longer than the front
seam (of the sleeve) at the top and a half inch longer at the bottom.
The front seam curves from top to wrist, one inch toward the sleeve ;

the back seam slopes from the elbow to the wrist enough to give the

right size for the hand.

The front arm seam is joined to the front of the arm-size half
way between I and G. The sleeve should be carefully hung and the
arm-size enlarged (if necessary) below the mark I, and as little under
the arm as possible a
 DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING DOLL'S DRESS.
Fold cloth at d for sleeve ;
at c for front of skirt. Join a and b.
Allow on skirt and sleeve for length and fullness. Add two inches
to be
pleat under the arm,
box left
to width of skirt for reversed
loose below the arm size or stitched together one inch.

Illnstration 46. Pattern for doll's dress.

77
Illustration 47. Bead and cross-stitch patterns, (a) and () Sofa pillow covers.
 FINGER EXERCISES
The correct position of the hands, implements, and work for

sewing are of great importance.

The exercise of threading a needle and tying a knot should be
given when the class opens. When it is well learned, others may be

taught, as pupil's advance.

FIRST EXERCISE THREADING A NEEDLE AND TYING A KNOT.

Use a medium size thread with a coarse needle that will

thread easily.

(a) and hold the thread up in the left hand.

Sit upright

(b) Roll the end of the thread between the right thumb and
forefinger to twist it.

(c) Hold up the eye of the needle between the tips of the right
thumb and forefinger, with thread in the left hand in the same
manner.

(d) Put the thread into the eye of the needle, and draw
through YZ of its length with the left thumb and forefinger.

(e) Catch both threads and swing the needle under the middle
joint of the thimble finger.

(/) Slide the left thumb and forefinger to the long end of the
thread and pass it to the right thumb and forefinger.

Qr) Wind it once around the finger, roll it slightly with the
thumb, and draw it up with the third finger.
Repeat this exercise until a knot can be well made.
79
 SECOND EXERCISE THE POSITION OF THE NEEDLE AND
THIMBLE FOR THE OVERHAND STITCH.
Place the folded edge of a piece of cloth between the left thumb
and and a thimble on the thimble finger. Use a threaded
forefinger,
needle without a knot.

(a) Hold the needle at the tips of the right thumb and
forefinger.

(#) Put the needle against the thimble.

(c) Insert the needle in the folded edge of the cloth (see
Model 2 (a), and point directly toward you.

(d) Use the side of the thimble and push the needle through
the cloth. Repeat this exercise.

Illustration 48. The thimble finger holding the needle, while the thumb and forefinger are
tying the knot, or preparing work.

THIRD EXERCISE MAKING THE RUNNING STITCH.

The thread should have no knot. Take two or three running
stitches in a piece of cloth.

(a) Hold the piece up in the right hand, with the forefinger on
one side edge and the thumb on the other, holding the needle
of the
and edge closely between them.

(b) Push the needle with the thimble and take up

stitches at
80
the same time, using the left thumb and forefinger as a guide for the
stitches and to hold the cloth, and not to fill the needle.

(V) Draw the thread through. Repeat this exercise at each

lesson until it is well learned.

Drills on the other stitches may be given in the same manner,

as pupils advance. In giving drills, the teacher stands with her left
side to the class and holds her hands to the right, so that all can see
the movements.

Crosswise Basting.

Illustration 49. Basting One-quarter inch stitches, with one-inch spaces.

81
 CLOTH REQUIRED FOR TWENTY SETS OF MODELS.
Dotted calico, Model i ........
Dotted calico for feather-stitch practice
| yd.
i
yd.
The spaces between dots are measured lengthwise.
Figured calico, Models 2 and 4 in two colors, of each . .
^ yd.
Calico with figures having direction, Model 6
Striped calico or gingham, Models 3, 5, and 7
Quarter inch check gingham Models 6, 16, 17, and 18
;
..... .

.
.

.
ij yds.
i

2| yds.
yds.

Heavy unbleached cotton for design in backstitch, Model 10 .

i yd.
Medium grade of same for design in running, Model
Half bleached cotton models
Model 27 and
.

doll's clothes
....
....
5 . .
yd.
6 yds.

Long cloth, 2^- yds.

Canvas Models 22, 26 . . . . . . . .
yd.
Table Linen, Model 22 3^ sq. ft.

Butcher's Linen,
Flannel, Model 24
Cashmere, Model 25
Model 23
........ . . . . . . .

3.2 sq.ft.
2.8 sq.
yd.

ft.

These estimates are made for twenty-five inch calico and gingham, and
for yard wide cotton.

Twoyards of bright calico, in contrasting colors, will supply a

class of twenty with patchwork for dolls' bedspreads. Fourteen
yards each of turkey red and bright blue calico will make twenty
sofa-pillow covers, fifteen inches square, with ruffles and backs.

OUTLINE FOR A TWO YEARS' COURSE.

MODELS i, 2 (b), 3, 5; DOLL'S APRON 6 (a), 7 (<?), 8 (a)
and (b), 9, 10; AND BACKSTITCH DESIGN u, 12 (a), 13 (a)
and (), 14 (a) and (b) t 15 (a) (b) (c) and (d), 16, 17, 18,
21 (a) and (b).
Practice is given on small garments and articles for use.
Feather-stitch and cross-stitch are taught on them. set of doll's A
garments are made.
83
 Illustration 50 (<?). Fayal weavi g enlarged.

Use Cotton Perle, No. 8

(Dollfus, Mieg& Co.), for
weaving. Sew over and
over the clusters of threads
to form the cords and pass
the needle inside the weav-
ing to reach the next clus-
ter when one is covered.
Baste on oilcloth. Use a
hoop and blunt needle. Illustration 50 Fayal weaving.

84
 PIECES REQUIRED FOR ONE SET OF MODELS.
Model i. Quarter inch dotted calico, 4x7 in.
Model 2. Two colors of calico, each 2 x 4 in. Two pieces of cotton each,
2 x 4 in.

Model 3. Two pieces of striped calico or gingham, each 2x4 inches.

Model 4. Four pieces of calico two colors, two pieces of each, 2^ in. sq,
in
Model 5. Striped calico or gingham 5 in. sq. Medium unbleached cot-
ton, 2^ x 6 in.

Model 6. Checked gingham, 5 in. sq. Calico with upright designs,

5x8 in.

Model 7. Striped calico or gingham, 2 x 4 in. Half-bleached cotton,

6 x 8 in.
Model 8. Two pieces half-bleached cotton, each 5 in. sq.

Model 9. Half-bleached cotton with selvedge, 6 x 63 in.

Model 10. Two pieces half-bleached cotton, 5 in. sq., 2^x5 in. Firm
unbleached cotton, 5 in. sq.
Model ii. Half-bleached cotton, 5 in. sq.

Model 12. Same, 5 in. sq., i^ in. sq., 2^x i^ in.

Model 13. Same, 1x4^

5 in. sq., in.

Model 14. Same, 5 in. sq., 2\ x i in., 2\ x i^in.

Model 15. Firm bleached cotton, 2x6 in. Two pieces of same, each
2 X4 in.

Model 16. Checked gingham, 5 in. sq.

Model 17. Two pieces same, 5 in. sq., 4 in. sq.

Model 1 8. Two pieces same, 5 in. sq., 4 in. sq.

Model 19. Half-bleached cotton, 5 in sq., 1x3 in., 2\ x 3 in.

Model 20. Half-bleached cotton, 5 in. sq., 2 in. sq., \\ in. sq.

Model 21. Cardboard and stockinet, 2 x 3 in.

Q
Model 22. Canvas, 3 in. sq., quarter inch cord, i ft.

Model 23. Butcher's linen, 5 in. sq.

Model 24. Cashmere, 4 x 5 in.

Model 25. Two pieces of flannel, 4x5 in., 2 in. sq.
Model 26. Canvas 2x5 ribbon A yd.
in.,
Model 27. Two pieces of long cloth, with selvedge, 2 x 4 in. Nainsook,
1x6 in., lace, 7 inches.
Model 28. Muslin.
Model 29. Long cloth
Model 30. Long cloth.
Model 31. Outing flannel.
Model 32. White India linon or lawn.

86
 a

Illustration 51. (a) and (6) Reed and raffia. (<:) Reed (d) Raffia.

88
 AMERICAN INDIAN BEAD WORK AND BASKETRY.

BEAD WORK.
FRAMES. The simplest frames for bead work are made of two
blocks of wood, one inch in width and thickness and three inches
long, one square inch by three inches, and two half inch boards
t\vo inches wide and two feet long. A
double row of brads
are nailed into one side of each block, one quarter of an inch apart
and so placed that the brads of one row are opposite the spaces of
the other. Make the boards adjustable by joining them with
movable bolts and nail the blocks across the ends with the brads ex-
tending upward or outward. If greater length is required, extend

the warp between and beyond the brads and wind it about the ends
of the frame.
For wider work, make an oblong frame with brads at each end.
This frame is used by children for
weaving raffia and rags. Frames
for children's use are cut from heavy cardboard, with small holes
made ends to carry the warp.
at the Looms for school and home
use are kept in kindergarten and school supply stores.

MATERIAL. No. 60 Barbour's linen thread, 300 ball thread, 36

cotton, or a corresponding size of twist, are used for the warp, and
60 cotton. for the woof. The objection to using silk for the woof is
that the knots work loose. Thread wears better if it is waxed. As
wax holds the dust it should not be used for white beads.
Join
threads with a square or a weavers' knot. Use a No. 12 needle and
a single thread for fine beads. Reject those that are not of the
89
regular size, such as thick, thin, and uneven ones. Indians prefer
the opaque beads.
WEAVING. Put one more thread on the warp than the number
of spaces required and draw until it is tight. Thread the end com-
ing from the spool and tie the other end to the thread of the warp
that is nearest the weaver, string the number of beads for a row,
pass
the needle under the warp and the beads under and at right angles
to press one bead into each space with the left forefinger and return
it,

the needle through the beads above the warp, so that the thread

passes through them twice, once below and once above. Do not
draw the thread of the woof tight but press the woven beads against
the row above. This makes the texture smooth, soft, and firm, and
does not give too much strain on the woof.

Illustration 52. Weaving bead?, enlarged.

Two needles are used for wide bead work, one to cany the
beads below the warp and one to pass through them above it. By
this means the work can be handled better and mistakes in a
line beads can be easily corrected.
of The needle that is used
to pass through the beads above the warp is used to string the beads
for the next row.

FINISHING. Fasten the thread by running it back through a

row or more of beads. Tie the warp with a square knot in sets of
90
two closely to the last row of beads. Thread one of each set and
carry it through or between several of the beads of the texture and
cut it off. String each of the remaining threads with the coarser
beads to the required length for a fringe, pass the needle back
through all but the last bead and fasten the end thread to the texture
by two or three button-hole stitches.

Illustration 53. Three ply Raffia Braid.

BASKETRY.
MATERIALS. Reeds are the stems of coarse grasses that grow
in wet places and are common in America and Europe.
Raffia is a Madagascar, with very large leaves having
palm of
a fibrous cuticle. The prepared
fiber is also called raffia. It is used

for mats, tie bands, baskets, and fancy articles. The natural color
is cream white. Reed, wire, cord, and twisted raffia are used as foun-
dations for Indian baskets. Raffia is a substitute for the fine
91
material, not easily obtained, which is dyed by Indians and used
with cheaper fiber back of it to give body to the texture. Dyed
porcupine quills and the colored feathers of birds are also used for

patterns. The color is carried along the cord or reed when not
required.
A book on Indian Basketry has been issued by the Smithsonian
Institute, Washington, D. C., and is sent free of charge to those
who are making a study of this art.

Illustration 54. Three ply Braid woven with Reeds.

BASKET MAKING. Reed baskets are easily made. The reeds

are soaked inwarm water for fifteen minutes, if they are fine. Eight
are cut the desired length. Several inches are allowed to turn in for
the border.
92
 A REED MAT is the first piece made. The reeds are crossed
in the center, four at right angles to four. Some basket makers cut
slits along the center of four through which the other four are

passed. The end of a reed, called the weaver, is inserted and is

carried around the center, starting under the lower four and passing
over the upper four from left to right twice around to hold them
firmly in place. Another spoke is added to make an uneven num-
ber. The weaver pressed closely each time that it is carried
is

around between the spokes until the mat is of the required size.
The ends are then trimmed and turned in to form a border.

Illustration 55. Nine ply Raffia Braid.

A reed basket is started in the same manner. Bend up the

spokes when the bottom is between three and four inches in diameter
and weave around them to form the sides of the basket. After some
skill is acquired, two or more weavers can be used at a time. For
93
Illustration 56. Raffia and Reed or Wire, No. I.

Illustration 57. Raffia and Reed or Wire, No. 2.

94
larger baskets, more spokes are added. When within several inches

of the top, trim the reeds evenly and carry them forward and down
beside the third or fourth reed to form the border, if they are thick,
or beside the second reed if only the nine spokes are used.
RAFFIA BASKETS. Dyed raffia is rolled in a damp cloth to

moisten it, the uncolored may be soaked. As it is thin at the ends

Illustration 58. A twisted cord of raffia wound and sewed with raffia.

it is
lapped when joined. The strips should be kept uniform in size
for Lap
weaving. at intervals when making
a braid of raffia.
Wind from left to right and sew through from back to front.
Form a small ring of the end of the cord. Thread a strip of raffia

into a darning needle and sew around the ring until it is covered.
Pass the around the cord twice, and through or around the pre-
raffia

ceding row from the back to the front, and draw it up until the cords
meet. Continue to pass the raffia twice around the cord, and once
around it and the preceding row or through the latter.

95
 To separate the rows of cord with rows of openwork, draw up
the strip of raffia so that the cords will be one quarter of an inch

apart and sew around this thread from right to left to form a shank.
Baskets are made in the same manner by using reed y& inch in
diameter, and making longer spaces and shorter shanks.

Illustration 59. Raffia and cord with rows of openwork.

The illustrations show several modes of making baskets. When

two strands are used at a time they are crossed at the back.
In illustration 57, the five lower rows, in two colors, are woven
the same as the upper two. White raffia is carried at the back of
each colored strip to give body to it.

96
 INDEX
Aprons, dolls', childrens', ladies', kitchen, 23 Doll's bed linen, 23; dress, 26, 77; gar-
ments, 23, 24
Backstitch, 37; design in, 23, 37, 100, 101 Doll's house, 15

Bags of ribbon or cretonne, over-handed Drafting, 73

for buttons, thimbles, or sachet, 22, Dust cloths of cheesecloth with running-
stitch, 22; of calico, with French hem,

Bags of silk or soft cotton made in running 21; feather-stitched, 25

stitch for handkerchiefs, darning, dust

cloths or sewing, 22 Eyelets, 46, 49

Bands, 41, 43
Basketry, 91 Fagoting, 61
Basting, 27 Fayal Weaving, 84
Bead work, 89 Feather-stitch, 59; dust cloths, ruffles for

Bean bags of denim, or duck, back- pillows and other articles, 25

stitched, 23 Finger exercises, 79
Bias, 1 8, 39; facing, 35; strips, 45; match- Flannel-stitch, flannel patch, 63

ing. 49 French hem on linen, 57; towels, 21;

Binding, 35 napkins, 21
Blanket stitch, 63 French seam, 39
Buttons, 47; buttonholes, 24, 46
Gathering and gauging, 41
Cat-stitch, 64, 63 Garment making, II, 12, Jl

Chain-stitch, 59 Gussets, 53
Children's drawers, 23

Cloth, 1 8 Hair for darning, 63

Clubs, classes organized as, 12 Half-backstitching, 37
Combination course, 20 Handkerchiefs with hems, run, hemmed, or

Combination stitches, 37 hemstitched, 22

Heart-shaped pin cushion, 22
Course, 5, n, 20, 83 Hemming, 32
Cross-stitch, 67 Hems, extension and faced, 34

Cutting out pictures for paper dolls, 14 Hemmed patch, 52

Hem-stitching, plain and knotted, 35
Darning on cashmere, 63; on canvas, Herring-bone, 61
linen, stockinet, 57 Hooks and eyes, magnet test, sewing on, 49
97
 Indian. American, bead work, 89; bas- Ruffle for doll's underskirt, 23 ; dress, 26
ketry, 91 Rug, doll's, 57
Running, design in, 31
Kensington stitch, 61 Running seam, to straighten, 31

Knot, 19; square knot. 28, 58

Samples of material to be pasted on first

Lace, sewing on, 69 page of Manila leaves, 20

Linen, cut, 18; darned, 58 Scrim, hemstitched, 23
Looms, 24, 57, 89 Seam, 18; of flannel, 67
Self-help Circle, 5
Manila leaves, 20 Selvedge, 18, 20
Matching, 26, 49 Sewing outfit, 1 7
Material, n, 20 Shank for button, 47
Mending firm, woolen cloth that is torn, 63 Shirt sleeve opening, 53
Mission schools, 1 2 Sheets for child's bed, for doll's, hemmed or
Mitred corner, 33, 34 hem-stitched, 23
Models, 19; pieces for one set, 85; cloth for Shoes, infants, 24
twenty sets, 83 Skirt, doll's, gored, cotton, 23, 24; flannel
Mothers, To, 13 25
Slip- stitch or blind hem, 34, 63
Needles and thread, 18 Sofa pillow, 21
Night shirt front, 53 Square knot, 58
Night gown for doll or infant, 24 Stitcheson illustrations, 59
Stockinet, 57
Overcasting, 22, 28
Overhanding, 28 Teachers, To, 1 1

Overhand patch, 52 Thimble, 12

Thread eyes, 49
Paper dolls, 14 Threads, to fasten, 28, 29
Patching on flannel, 63; ginghams, 52 Topics for Talks, 1
7
Patterns, 20, 71 ; Doll's dress, 77 Tray cloths, 23
Plackets, 43 Tucking, 31
Position, ii
Practice work, 20 Volunteer teachers, 1 2
Progress, n
Purl edge, 62 Wax double thread for buttons, 49; end of
zephyr to thread it, 57; thread of warp
Rapidity, 12 for darning, 63
Raw edge, 18 Warp and woof, 18, 29
Wash cloths, 22
Rolled gathers and hem, 69 and wool, 57; beads, 89
Weaving rags
98
Illustration 60. Design for patch-work pillow of strips and 3^ inch squares
for young pupils.

99
Illustration 61. Design for stitching; also to be enlarged for sofa pillow cover.

100
Illustration 62. Design for stitching; also to be enlarged for sofa pillow cover.

101
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFOKNIA
LIBKABY
BERKELEY

demand may be renpwp/1 if o r *

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REC'D LD
JUN-101963

REC'D LD
APR 15 '65 -2PM
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