The

MIGHTY
BRUSh
PAiNTINg GUIDE

BLoOD
ANGELS v1.5 April 2020 © The Mighty Brush. All rights reserved. themightybrush.com
IntRodUction Key
This guide is designed for beginner to intermediate level painters. The aim is to achieve a AIRBRUSH
Denotes that this step should be applied
good quality paint job in a way that can be replicated relatively quickly across an army. You
using an airbrush.
may wish to treat some of the highlight steps as optional, so the method can be ‘scaled’
from rank and file to more special models such as commanders and characters. PAINT BRUSH
paint-brush Denotes that this step should be applied
A certain level of experience and understanding is assumed of basic painting techniques using an paint brush.
such as basecoating, layering, using shading washes and edge highlighting, but more
INFORMATION
‘advanced’ techniques such as freehand and NMM are avoided to ensure maximum  Information, notes and further
accessibility. explanation of processes and
techniques.
Once you have practiced the steps and feel comfortable, it is recommended to apply each
step to batches of five models at a time for maximum speed and efficiency when painting OPTIONAL
an army or large collection of models.  Denotes a step that is optional,
depending on the speed / level of quality
and detail desired.

VARNISH

painting Process
Denotes that a protective coat of varnish
is required after this step.

There are many ways to paint – and no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way. Some people prefer to focus
on one area at a time and complete each section before moving on to the next. This guide is
structured how I prefer to paint, which is to work my way around the whole model, building
up in layers. This way, once I get to the end of each step, the place I started is dry and ready
for the next step. I find this a good way to be efficient and maximise painting time.

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AirbrUshing BrUsh pAinting
AIR PRESSURE DRYBRUSHING

An air pressure of 15-20psi is good for most purposes and For drybrushing I use Rosemary & Co Smooshing Brushes
situations. If you experience ‘speckling’ (which is most (small and medium), which I find to have just the right
common with light / pale colours and white), increase the balance of coarse bristles and softness.
pressure to 25-30psi.
WET PALETTE
THINNING
A wet palette is highly recommended to keep your acrylic
I use primarily Vallejo Model Air paints for airbrushing, paints from drying during use. I use the Redgrass Games
which can be used undiluted in most cases. If the paint Everlasting Wet Palette but others are available or you can
dries too quickly and builds up on the needle tip, a drop make your own.
or two of Flow Improver can be mixed with the paint in the
The only time I don’t use a wet palette is when brush
cup of the airbrush, stirring gently with a paint brush.
painting with Vallejo Model Air or Metal Color paints, as
adding water to these can make them too thin.
CLEANING

Isopropyl alcohol is a low-cost, widely available chemical ENAMEL (OIL-BASED) PAINTS

suitable for cleaning acrylic paint. Always read the safety
The vast majority of paints used in this guide are water-
An airbrush is used to lay the initial shadows, highlights instructions and warnings before use. Good quality brushes are important for miniature painting, based acrylics which most hobbyists will no doubt be
and base colour of the armour. Other methods could be A cleaning pot with integral stand is an extremely useful and will affect the ease with which you can achieve good familiar with. Less well known in wargaming circles are
used, such as layering / glazing or drybrushing, but an accessory to have! results. I use many different brushes but most commonly enamel or oil-based paints, but these have some unique
airbrush is the best tool for achieving smooth blends and Winsor & Newton Series 7 (size 2 for basecoating and properties that are very useful for certain applications –
transitions quickly. SAFETY shading washes, and size 0 for details). This particular for example pin-washing and weathering effects.
brand is not essential, but choose a brush that holds a
It’s not necessary to have a specific brand or model, but It’s important to protect yourself from breathing in Enamel paints (and the brushes used with them) cannot
sharp point and will last a long time with care.
it is worth investing in a quality airbrush, as it will last atomised paint and cleaning fluid. Spray in a well be cleaned with water – enamel paint thinner or mineral
a long time with care. I like Badger airbrushes for their ventilated room and use a spray booth and respirator The Miniature version of these brushes, in the same two spirits must be used instead. For this reason it’s also
robustness and ease of use, but whatever you choose, I mask at all times. sizes, are also very useful for fine detail when you need recommended to use separate, synthetic brushes with
would recommend gravity feed, dual action, and a needle more control. these paints.
/ nozzle size between 0.2 and 0.5mm.

As with the airbrush itself, the specific brand or model of

compressor is not important. I have an AS186 which is a
decent quality, good value compressor.

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pAint Ranges
I use primarily Vallejo paints because of the huge range VALLEJO METAL COLOR
of colours available and my preference for dropper
This range is designed primarily for airbrushing but can
bottles over pots. Other ranges of comparable quality
also be used for brush painting. It is highly opaque and
are available (Citadel, Army Painter, Scale 75, Andrea
therefore covers easily, but is very low viscosity so should
Color etc), so feel free to use whichever you prefer and
be used sparingly on the brush and on a hard (non-wet
substitute the colours for the closest match in your
palette).
chosen range.

Note: Vallejo occasionally change the descriptive names VALLEJO PREMIUM VARNISH
of their paints, but the number reference is always tied to The Premium range of varnishes provide a tough, clear
the specific colour. The name is included here for ease of layer of protection, useful in creating a barrier between
reference, but always check the number to be sure. acrylic and oil-based paint steps.

BADGER PRIMER CITADEL

Badger Ultimate Primer is a highly opaque, very low I have yet to find better acrylic shading washes than the
viscosity primer, perfect for airbrushing. Vallejo airbrush Citadel range, so use these instead of Vallejo for that
primer can also be used, as well as spray can primer. purpose, but use whichever range you prefer.
DALER ROWNEY FW ARTIST’S ACRYLIC INKS TAMIYA PANEL LINE ACCENT
VALLEJO MODEL COLOR / GAME COLOR FORGE WORLD WEATHERING POWDERS
Daler Rowney are one of many producers of Artist’s Tamiya produce a relatively small but high quality range
These paints are densely pigmented with a high opacity, Weathering powders are dry pigments, great for basing Acrylic Inks (another popular brand being Liquitex). These of both acrylic and enamel paints. In this guide we make
perfect for basecoating. Thin with a small amount of and achieving realistic dry, dusty effects. They can be are useful for their highly saturated colour properties, and use of their Panel Line Accent, which is perfect for pin
water or Vallejo Thinner on a wet palette. quite vivid and strong in appearance, so it’s best to apply their consistency is also great for airbrushing. washing. It’s consistency allows it to hug very tightly to
a small amount of the powder at a time, stippling and edges, cracks and recesses.
VALLEJO MODEL AIR Brushes and airbrush can be cleaned with water, or any
drybrushing it on to the area.
These paints have a finer pigment and lower viscosity, cleaning fluid designed for acrylic paints. This is an enamel paint so a coat of acrylic varnish prior
Once on the model the powders create quite a resilient to and after use is highly recommended.
perfect for airbrushing. They can mostly be used
finish, however if your models are going to be frequently
undiluted but a drop of Vallejo Flow Improver can help It is also important to use Tamiya’s X-20 Enamel Thinner
handled you might want to seal them using a pigment
avoid buildup on the needle. (not to be confused with X-20A, which is for acrylic
fixative. This will affect the dry look, so you may want to
These paints are also used for edge highlighting in some apply more powder over the top, which should stick quite paints) for cleanup of any mistakes on the model, and for
steps. For this purpose use undiluted on a wet palette. strongly to the fixative underneath. cleaning brushes.

The best source I have found for this paint in Europe is:
https://www.super-hobby.co.uk

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pAint References
BADGER VALLEJO MODEL AIR

Ultimate Primer (Grey) 71.057 Black

71.040 Burnt Umber

DALER ROWNEY
71.072 Gunmetal
FW Artist’s Acrylic Ink 028 Black
71.065 Steel
FW Artist’s Acrylic Ink 011 White

FW Artist’s Acrylic Ink 412 Process Magenta VALLEJO METAL COLOR

FW Artist’s Acrylic Ink 517 Flame Red 77.723 Exhaust Manifold

TAMIYA VALLEJO GAME COLOR

Panel Line Accent Black 72.016 Royal Purple

72.085 Game Ink Yellow

VALLEJO MODEL COLOR

70.950 Black CITADEL

70.862 Black Grey Nuln Oil

70.994 Dark Grey Agrax Earthshade

70.867 Dark Bluegrey Reikland Fleshshade

70.869 Basalt Grey Seraphim Sepia

70.983 Flat Earth Druchii Violet

70.874 Tan Earth Biel-Tan Green

70.829 Amarantha Red

FORGE WORLD
70.804 Beige Red
Dark Sand
70.837 Pale Sand
Orange Rust
70.737 Green Fluo
Light Rust
70.820 Offwhite

70.951 White

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NoteS oN pre-ShAding 

A CARET-DOWN No masking is required to achieve the hard edges

between the black and white shown in the next
steps. Primaris marines have a lot of angles, edges
FRONT
and corners we can use as natural masks by holding
the model and spraying at certain angles.

For example, Diagram A opposite shows the leg in

LEG CROSS SECTION
cross section, as seen from above. When we spray
(TOP DOWN VIEW) the black shading from behind, the edge of the
greave blocks the spray, allowing for a hard edge.
This corner
creates a
For the shoulder pads (Diagrams B, C & D) we just
BACK natural mask want to create a rough dark area at the bottom of
the pad, avoiding the raised rim. This can easily
be achieved (without masking) by using a precise,
controlled spray, which you will naturally develop
with practice.

Any gap between our shaded area and the rim will
B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN D CARET-DOWN be filled in by the enamel pin wash later (see Step
5).
PRE-SHADING RED TOP COAT ENAMEL PIN WASH
(SEE STEP 1) (SEE STEPS 3 & 4) (SEE STEP 5)

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Step 1
A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Prime the model Grey. I use Badger Ultimate
Primer but any grey primer will do, spray can or
airbrush.

Now we will apply some pre-shading and pre-

highlighting to get a greyscale ‘sketch’ of our model,
and a base for our red inks.

Apply shading with Daler Rowney FW Artist’s

Acrylic Ink 028 Black.

Ink is thinner and flows more easily than paint,

so can be used undiluted through your airbrush.
However, for this reason it’s important to be light
with the trigger and not release too much ink in one
go to avoid flooding the model. Practice on a piece
of paper first to get a feel if you are unfamiliar with
inks.

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN Work at 15-20psi, 5-10cm from the model and refer
to the pictures opposite for where the shadows are
placed.

If you make a mistake and spray an area you didn’t

mean to – don’t worry, this can be corrected in the
next step.

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Step 2
A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Now apply highlights with Daler Rowney FW
Artist’s Acrylic Ink 011 White. This can also be used
undiluted, however as white is so highly pigmented
it is advisable to shake well and stir in the airbrush
cup before spraying.

Again, work at 15-20psi, 5-10cm from the model

and refer to the pictures opposite for where the
highlights are placed.

Because both the black and white inks are opaque

and will cover each other, you can go back and
forth with each colour until you’re happy with the
placement of all the shadows and highlights.

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN

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Step 3
A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Now we will use two inks to finish the base of our
red armour. Firstly Daler Rowney FW Artist’s
Acrylic Ink 412 Process Magenta, concentrating on
the shaded areas.

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN

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Step 4
A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Now cover the remaining areas of the armour with
Daler Rowney FW Artist’s Acrylic Ink 517 Flame
Red. You should now have a bright, vibrant red
with a lot of depth, thanks to the pre-shading, pre-
highlighting and dual red tones.

After this step, seal the model with a

 coat of gloss varnish and apply decals.

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN

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Step 5 paint-brush

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN After sealing the model and applying decals
(see free guide on this here: https://www.
themightybrush.com/tutorial/how-to-apply-decals-
with-microset-and-microsol/), apply a pin wash
with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Black. This is an
enamel (oil-based) wash with very tight flow, perfect
for ‘black lining’ the armour panels.

Apply it sparingly with the brush built into the pot

lid, directly into the recesses. Touch the point of the
brush at a junction and the wash will flow along the
line all by itself.

If you make a mistake – don’t panic! The advantage

of enamel is that you can remove unwanted wash
with a brush moistened in thinner. Use Tamiya’s own
X-20 Enamel Thinner. Brushes must also be washed
in the thinner, not water.
D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN If you’re not comfortable or familiar with enamel
paints you can use Citadel Nuln Oil Gloss, but be
careful as any mistakes must be dealt with quickly
before the wash dries, otherwise it is difficult to
remove.

Oil paints take longer to dry than acrylics, but

enamel washes are quite thin so dry more quickly.
It is still recommended to allow the wash to dry for
several hours, over overnight, before sealing the
model and moving on to the next step.

After this step, seal the model with a

 coat of satin varnish.

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Eye LeNSes 

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN The colours used on the eye lenses are detailed
in the following steps, but I think some diagrams
would be useful to demonstrate the process more
clearly:

A Start by basecoating the eye lens with Vallejo

Model Color 70.951 White. You can overlap
the lens slightly here.

B Next apply Vallejo Game Ink Yellow,

overlapping the white area.

C Now apply a shading wash of Citadel Biel-Tan

Green to lens itself.

D Highlight the centre of the lens with Vallejo

Model Color 70.737 Green Fluo

E Add a final, tiny highlight to the very centre with

Vallejo Model Color 70.951 White
D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN

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Step 6 paint-brush

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Basecoat the other areas of the model:

UNDERSUIT / GUN CASING

Vallejo Model Color 70.862 Black Grey

BLACK KNEEPAD
Vallejo Model Color 70.950 Black

BROWN LEATHER
Vallejo Model Air 71.040 Burnt Umber

METAL
Vallejo Metal Color 77.723 Exhaust Manifold

PARCHMENT
Vallejo Model Color 70.837 Pale Sand

WAX SEALS
Vallejo Game Color 72.016 Royal Purple

EYE LENS
D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN Vallejo Model Color 70.951 White
(Make sure you cover the ridge under the lens)

BASE (ROCK / MUD)

Vallejo Model Air 71.040 Burnt Umber

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Step 7 paint-brush

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN Apply shading washes:

UNDERSUIT / GUN CASING

Citadel Nuln Oil

BROWN LEATHER
Citadel Nuln Oil

PARCHMENT
Citadel Seraphim Sepia and then
Citadel Agrax Earthshade

WAX SEALS
Citadel Druchii Violet

METAL
Citadel Nuln Oil

EYE LENS
Vallejo Game Ink Yellow (overlapping lens)
Citadel Biel-Tan Green (lens only)
D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN
YELLOW BLOOD DROP
Citadel Reikland Fleshshade
(The yellow transfers can be quite bright, so I like
to tone these down with a couple of thin coats of
shading wash, painted carefully over just the blood
drop itself)

BASE (ROCK / MUD)

Citadel Agrax Earthshade

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Step 8 paint-brush

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN HIGHLIGHTS

For a more worn, grittier look, make some small

random marks (dots and short lines) on the flat
surfaces to represent dents and scratches:

RED ARMOUR
Vallejo Model Color 70.829 Amarantha Red

UNDERSUIT / GUN CASING

Vallejo Model Color 70.994 Dark Grey

BLACK KNEEPAD
Vallejo Model Color 70.862 Black Grey

BROWN LEATHER
Vallejo Model Color 70.983 Flat Earth

PARCHMENT
Vallejo Model Color 70.837 Pale Sand

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN WAX SEALS

Vallejo Game Color 72.016 Royal Purple
mixed 2:1 with
Vallejo Model Color 70.951 White

METAL
Vallejo Model Air 71.072 Gunmetal

EYE LENS
Vallejo Model Color 70.737 Green Fluo
(Centre of the lens)

BASE (ROCK / MUD)

Vallejo Model Color 70.874 Tan Earth

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Step 9 paint-brush 

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN ADDITIONAL HIGHLIGHTS

If you just want to get models done quickly to a

tabletop standard, you can stop after the previous
step. But if you want to add an extra layer of detail,
you can proceed with the next two optional steps.

RED ARMOUR
Vallejo Model Color 70.804 Beige Red

UNDERSUIT / GUN CASING

Vallejo Model Color 70.867 Dark Bluegrey

BLACK KNEEPAD
Vallejo Model Color 70.994 Dark Grey

BROWN LEATHER
Vallejo Model Color 70.874 Tan Earth

PARCHMENT
Vallejo Model Color 70.820 Offwhite
D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN
WAX SEALS
Vallejo Game Color 72.016 Royal Purple
mixed 1:1 with
Vallejo Model Color  70.951 White

METAL
Vallejo Model Air 71.065 Steel

EYE LENS
Vallejo Model Color  70.951 White
(Centre of the lens)

BASE (ROCK / MUD)

Vallejo Model Color 70.837 Pale Sand

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Bolt Rifle Blending paint-brush 

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN BOLT RIFLE

To achieve the blended ‘area highlight’ on the bolt

rifle casing shown in the previous step, we use a

HIGHLIGHT COLOUR
  SHADING COLOUR
simple glaze:

A Start by blocking out the highlight area with

Vallejo Model Color 70.869 Basalt Grey

B Next blur the transition by painting the Basalt

Grey, thinned with water, starting in the dark
area and ending in the light area

C Now repeat this process, but in the opposite

direction, using the shading colour Vallejo
Model Color 70.862 Black Grey

Repeat steps A and B until the transition is smoothly

blended. The keys to this technique are thinning the
paint sufficiently with water, and making your brush
strokes in the correct direction.

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Step 10 paint-brush 

A CARET-DOWN B CARET-DOWN C CARET-DOWN FINAL DETAILING

To finish off the battle damage on the armour, add

a small, hard edged shadow to the top of some of
the larger scratch and dent marks with Vallejo Model
Color 70.822 German Camo Black Brown. This
gives the effect of actual 3-dimensional damage to
the armour.

Add the squad marking decal to the black kneepad

and give the pad a coat of Citadel Nuln Oil. This
will tone down the white skull and blend the previous
highlight layers.

I have added a transfer to the gun casing, from the

Forge World Legion sheet. This is of course optional
and many models have sculpted detail here.

Final extra coats of shading wash are applied to

D CARET-DOWN E CARET-DOWN F CARET-DOWN some areas to tone down and blend the highlights:

UNDERSUIT / GUN CASING

Citadel Nuln Oil

BROWN LEATHER
Citadel Agrax Earthshade

Pigment powders are carefully applied to the base

to represent the dry, dusty, irradiated wasteland of
the Blood Angels home planet, Baal:

Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand

Forge World Weathering Powder Orange Rust

Forge World Weathering Powder Light Rust

Finally, paint the base rim Vallejo Model Air

71.057 Black, or the colour of your choice.

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The
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