Openings in Walls
Openings in Walls
Functions of openings
The door and window openings are built to provide:
i. Access
ii. Light
Door openings start from top of 2.1m below the siffit ifthe lintel and have
varying widths.
i. Lighting
ii. Ventilation
The process of allowing free circulation of the air in the house is known as
natural ventilation.
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iv. Access
Door openings allow the occupants to move in and out of the building.
Parts of openings
i. Jambs
ii. Reveal
It is the vertical face of an opening for a window or door way between the
frame and the outside face of a wall.
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iii. Threshold
It is the lowest horizontal member beneath a window used to shed off rain
water from an opening.
v. Soffit
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It is underside of a lintel.
A lintel is a member placed over opening to support the weight of the wall
over the opening.
Setting out openings
The location and size of an opening require careful planning in order to:
When the location and size of an opening has been shown in a drawing the
number of full blocks, the half pieces and their positions in a course should
be established.
The brick work or block work over the head opening have to be supported
either by:
a) Flat lintels
b) Arches
Lintels
There are various types of lintels in their construction e.g.
v. Steel lintels
vi. R.C.C. lintels
In old days when technology was not much advanced, timber lintels were in
very common use.
Secondly it is very easily affected and white ands and other insects and
combustible hence not recommended for use in fireproof construction.
Stone lintels are in very common use in regions where stones are easily
available.
They may be used in form of single piece or more than one piece.
Stone lintels are very weak in tension and thus cannot be used in large
spans.
Stone lintels are required to be dressed before use and hence prove costly.
The lintels can be used over a span of 3.0m but in that case two or three
3.50m long pulties are used on edge side by side and space between pulties
is filled with cement concrete.
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iii. Brick lintels
Brick lintels are made by using first class bricks either laid on end or on
edge.
For larger spans and heavy loads, this lintel should be used in that case
reinforced brick lintel may be used.
When brick lintels have to be used over large spans, they are reinforced
with steel bars.
Bricks are arranged in such a way that 20mm to 40mm wide lengthwise
spaces are left in the brick rows.
Steel rods are put in these gaps and spaces and then filled with rich mortar
or concrete.
For openings more than 900mm wide a brick lintel can be supported by a
wrought iron bearing bar, the ends of which are built into brickwork jamb
and on which the brick lintel bears.
The bar has bent or cranked, ends for building into the vertical joints in
brickwork at the jambs of the opening.
This is not a satisfactory method of supporting the lintel as the bar is visible
on the soffit of the lintel and looks ugly, and in time it will rust and look
uglier than it did when first built.
Also the bar has a tendency to sag and the lintel may sag with it.
As an alternative mild steel angle section is built with its ends in the
brickwork either side of the opening and supporting the lintel.
Through the holes in bricks around section mild steel rod is threaded and
the ends of the rod are built into the brickwork either side of the lintel.
Angle irons are used for small spans and light loads whereas rolled steel
joists (I-girders) may be used singly or in groups of more than one joist.
Thin lintels are nothing but R.C.C. lintels having a thickness of about 75 –
100mm only.
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In thin lintel some height of the masonry above thin lintel is considered
acting as part of the lintel.
Since some masonry act as part of lintel in bonding, it should be built
preferably in 1:3 cement mortars.
Pre-cast lintels are convenient and economical for small spans and any
load.
Progress of the work is also more in pre-cast lintels as they do not need any
casting or curing at the site.
When pre-cast lintels are casted, the upper surface of the lintel should be
marked by some identification marks so that lintels may be used correctly.
ii. Be accurately set out so that the lintel will take the correct shape, size
and be in the right position.
v. Be properly supported
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Making an in-situ concrete lintels
i. Erect the timber formwork across the opening and support it from the floor
below or masonry.
ii. Seal all the joints with building paper or mastic between the timber
formwork and the brickwork to prevent the cement and water leaking out.
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iv. The reinforcement with bent ends and laid from the longitudinal end to the
other at centres not more than 150mm apart.
v. Small concrete blocks with protruding wires called spacer blocks are placed
between the formwork and the reinforcements.
As concreting is done this space is filled with concrete covering the steel
rods at the bottom side.
vi. Concrete is then poured into the formwork and compacted thoroughly.
It is then cured in position by splashing water over it every day for seven
days.
After seven days the lintel is watered everyday for seven days in the
morning and evening.
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After 14 days the lintel will have developed enough strength and hence the
formwork is stripped off.
Advantages of cast-in situ
i. Eliminates the dangers involved in lifting a pre-cast lintel into position.
ii. It bonds better with the wall as the concrete is cast wet in position.
Pre-cast lintel
Pre-casting is the process of making the lintel separately from a building.
iii. Bend the ends of the reinforcement bars to right angles (90o) or into semi-
circular shape.
iv. If the lintel consists of more than one bar, then make short cross bars and
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Insert spacer blocks that hold the bars 25 – 50mm from the bottom of the
formwork.
v. Place the reinforcement bars in the formwork and check that the bars are
50mm from end of the box and supported by spacers.
vi. Mix the required amount of concrete.
vii. Pour concrete in the timber box and make sure that it flows down around
and under the rods, then compact it down to remove any trapped air.
viii. Make a smooth finish on the top of the concrete with a wood float and
write the word ‘’top’’ on the wet concrete.
ix. Cover the box with wet sacking and leave it to set for seven days.
ii. Being at ground level, it is more convenient to work with and a better
product is obtained.
Not many firms posses lifting equipments such as hoists, cranes, pulley
blocks, etc.
Whenever it is done ensure that the walls on which it is to be placed has set
properly to eliminate the danger of pushing the upper courses and the
lintel falling on the bystanders.
Span Depth Reinforcement bar
diameter
iii. At least 25mm of concrete must cover the bottom of the reinforcement
bars.
iv. At least 50mm of concrete must cover the ends of the bars.
Boot lintel
When concrete has dried it is dull light grey in color.
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Some think that a concrete lintel exposed for its full depth on the external
face of the brick walls is not attractive.
In past it was a common practice to hide the concrete lintel behind a brick
arch or brick lintel built over the opening externally.
The toe is usually made 65mm deep and this small depth of concrete
showing over the opening does not spoil the appearance of the brickwork.
The main body of the lintel is inside the wall where it does not show and it
is this part of the lintel which does most of the work of supporting
brickwork.
Some think that the face of the brickwork looks best if the toe of the lintel
finishes just 25mm or 40mm back from the external face of the wall.
The brickwork built on the toe of the lintel is usually ½ brick thick for
opening up to 1.8m wide.
The brickwork above the top of main part of the lintel bears mainly on it
because the bricks are bonded.
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If the opening is wider than 1.8m the main part of the lintel is sometimes
made sufficiently thick to support most of the thickness of the wall over it.
When the toe of the lintel projects beyond the face of brickwork it should
be weathered to throw rain water out from the wall face and throated to
prevent water running in along soffit or underside.
If efflorescence is likely to occur on the exposed surface of the lintel due to
soluble salts in the concrete being withdrawn when the wall dries out after
rain and being left on the face of brickwork in the form of white dust, this
looks ugly.
To prevent it, the faces of the lintels in direct contact with the external
brickwork should be painted with bituminous paint.
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