BASIC SEWING

JOANN’S FIELD GUIDE

NAME
BASIC SEWING
A. INTRODUCTION

B. WORDS TO KNOW

C. BUYING A SEWING MACHINE

D. BASIC TOOLS & SUPPLIES

Needles & Pins

Cutting Tools

Thread Types & Tips

Other Sewing Supplies

E. SEWING 101

F. PATTERNS

G. TIPS & TRICKS

Introduction
Hi there! Welcome to JOANN’s Field Guide to Basic
Sewing.

If you picked this up, you must be interested in

learning how to sew apparel or home decor. Lucky
for you, we’ve got lots of tips!

For specific projects and inspiration, make sure

to visit joann.com/projects. But if you need some
basic information to get started, you’ve got the
right guide in your hands. After reading through
this information, you’ll know more about how to
select the right tools and supplies as well as the
terminology you’ll need to read a pattern. We also
cover sewing basics to arm you with the confidence
to get started.

For more information, be sure to check out our

sewing classes at joann.com/classes, as well as our
Field Guides to Sewing Machine and Apparel.

As always, we can hardly wait to see what you make.

Share with us! #handmadewithjoann

Words to Know
Backstitch -- Secures a line of stitches. Backstitching
is overlapping stitches at both the beginning and
end of a stitching line.

Baste -- Basting stitches are long stitches done by

hand or machine that temporarily hold fabric in
place before sewing. They are removed once the
final seam is in place.

Bias -- Refers to any line diagonal to the crosswise

and lengthwise grains. True bias is a cut made on a
45 degree angle to the selvage. This direction allows
for the most stretch.

Clip -- Helps flatten a curved seam. Snip at even

intervals along the inner curve being careful not to
cut into the stitch line.
Crossgrain -- Runs perpendicular to the selvage.

Edgestitch -- A second row of stitches very close to

the seam line on the right side of the fabric. This is
usually sewn to keep pressed seams in place.

Finish seams -- There are several ways to finish a

seam or raw edge to get a neat look and prevent
fraying. For sturdy fabrics, just trim seams with
pinking shears. For lighter fabrics, use a zigzag stitch
along the seam. Other methods of finishing include
turned-under seams, bound edges and serged
edges.

Gather -- Gathering stitches are used to sew a longer

edge to a shorter edge, resulting in significant
fullness.

Grade seam -- Seams need to be graded to reduce

bulk when pressing the seam allowance in a single
direction. After the seam is sewn, trim the seam
allowance in half. Then, identify which side of the
seam allowance will be laying against the body
once it is pressed, and trim that side of the seam
allowance in half.

Grainline -- The grainline runs parallel to the

selvage. The long arrow symbol printed on a pattern
corresponds to the location of the fabric’s grainline
when laying out patterns.

Notch -- The notches on a pattern help align the

pattern pieces when you sew them together.

Raw edge -- The raw edge is the unfinished, cut

edge of the fabric.

Right side & wrong side -- The right side of the fabric
will show on a finished garment; the wrong side will
be on the inside. Here’s a quick tip: the raw edges of
knits fabrics tend to roll toward the right side.

Staystitch -- Staystitching is a straight stitch sewn

through one layer of fabric. It’s most often used
around a curve to prevent distortion.
Seam Allowance -- The seam allowance is the
distance between the stitching line and the
raw edge of a piece of fabric. Most commercial
patterns have a 5/8 inch seam allowance.

Selvage -- The self-finished edge of fabric. The

selvages are located on either finished edge
of fabric and are made while the fabric is being
manufactured, usually on a loom.

Stitch length -- The stitch length is determined by

the movement of the feed dogs. It can be set so
that the stitches are longer or shorter depending
on the project.

Topstitch -- The stitching on the outside of a

garment that is parallel to and usually 1/4 inch
from the seam.

Understitching -- The stitching that helps seams

lay flat and prevents facings and linings from
rolling to the outside of the garment.

Buying a Sewing
Machine
courtesy of Dritz

This isn’t something you do on a daily basis, so it

can be overwhelming. Think about what types of
items you want to make and how frequently you
will use the machine. Don’t invest in a machine with
features you don’t think you will use.

A good beginner machine should be able to

do a straight stitch and a zigzag stitch. Look for
machines that will allow you to adjust the stitch
length and width as well as the tension. A machine
that comes with a zipper foot, buttonhole foot and
reverse stitch function would be the perfect way to
start.
Read the manual that comes with the machine and
familiarize yourself with its many parts and what
they do. Soon, you will have the knowledge and
confidence you need to start sewing.

Need more information? Check out our Field Guide

to Sewing Machines.

Basic Tools
& Supplies
courtesy of Dritz

There are many tools and supplies out there that

can help make sewing easier. Having the correct
basic supplies will make it easy for you to learn to
sew correctly.

NEEDLES & PINS

As a general rule, select the needle size and type
to accommodate the thread and material you will
use for your project. Replace needles after about 8
hours of sewing. A dull or bent needle could tear or
damage your fabric and ruin your project.

ANATOMY OF A PIN

Head -- Straight pins have one of the following

types of heads: metal, plastic/nylon, no-melt plastic
or glass.

Shaft -- Select the pin shaft diameter for the weight

and thickness of the fabric: .5 millimeters (mm)
for fine, lightweight fabrics and sheers; .6 mm
for medium-weight fabrics; and .7 mm - 8 mm for
medium-weight to heavyweight fabrics.

Point -- Pins should easily slide into the fabric

without snagging or creating large holes. A sharp
point is suitable for most woven fabrics. A ball point
with a rounded tip slides between loops of knit
fabric without snagging or pulling the yarns.
Length -- Choose the pin length that provides the
best ease of handling for the specific project.

• Short 1/2 - 7/8 inch length allows for detailed

handwork and close pinning.

• Medium 11/16 - 15/16 inch is a multipurpose

length suitable for various sewing projects

• Long 1.5 - 2 inch is required for working with

multiple layers of fabric.

SELECTING THE PROPER STRAIGHT PIN

Select pins according to the type of pin, length of

pin, type of pin head, type of metal from which it is
made and the project for which it will be used.

Applique -- Short length helps position and hold

appliques during hand sewing.

Ball Point -- Rounded tip is specially designed for

knit and lingerie fabrics.

Long Ball Point -- Long pin for use on medium-

weight knit fabrics.

Beading -- Large head is ideal for lace, open-weave

fabrics and beading crafts.

Bridal and Lace -- Extra-fine pin for use on delicate

or lightweight fabrics and lace.

Color Ball -- General purpose sewing pin for

medium-weight fabrics.

Extra Long Color Ball -- Extra-long pin for lofty

fabrics, quilt basting and home decor sewing.

Craft -- Extra-long pin for heavyweight fabrics,

home decor projects and crafts.

Dressmaker -- General purpose sewing pin suitable

for medium-weight fabrics.

Glass Head -- A general purpose pin with a heat-

resistant glass head used for medium-weight
fabrics.
Extra Fine Glass Head -- Fine .5 millimeter shaft
with a heat-resistant head used for delicate fabrics
and machine piecing.

Metallic -- Silver or gold plastic head pin used for

general sewing, crafts and decorative projects.

Pearlized -- Colorful, pearlized head used for

general sewing, floral, crafts and decorative
projects.

Pleating -- Fine, sharp pin for pinning pleats and for

delicate, lightweight fabrics.

Quilting -- Used for basting quilt layers and pinning

multiple layers of fabric. Long length is also ideal
for loose weaves, synthetic furs, plush velvets, bulky
fabrics and heavy trims.

Satin -- Used for satin and medium-weight fabrics.

Extra Long Satin -- Extra-long pin with a tapered

point for light- to medium-weight fabrics.

Sequin -- Extra-short, fine pin used for pinning

sequins and thin trims, hand applique and crafts.

Silk -- Rustproof pin used on silk and synthetic

fabrics.

Super-Fine Sharp -- .5 millimeter fine pin specially

designed for microfibers and delicate fabrics.

CUTTING TOOLS
SCISSORS

Sharp scissors are a must for sewing. Never use

your fabric scissors to cut paper. It will dull your
blades and ruin your scissors for cutting fabric.
There are many different types of scissors. Knowing
what to use when can be extremely helpful. Here is
a handy guide to give you some direction:

Dressmaker shears - heavy-duty scissors designed

for a seamstress. These shears cut efficiently and
smoothly through a variety of material.
Pinking Shears – have saw-toothed blades instead
of straight ones. They are used to add a ravel-
resistant (zigzag) finish to fabric or a decorative
finish on fabrics that don’t ravel.

Appliqué Scissors – specially designed for close

trimming around edges and aligned seams without
damaging the fabric.

Embroidery scissors and thread snips or clippers

– ideal for clipping and notching, trimming fabric,
and snipping thread tails.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:

• Scissors with shorter blades (3–5 inches) are

made for cutting in tight spaces and clipping
intricate designs.

• Scissor with longer blades (8–10 inches) are

made for long clean cuts.

• Use Teflon-coated scissors for cutting through

adhesives to keep the blades from gumming up.

ROTARY CUTTERS

Rotary cutters and a large rotary mat are excellent

for slippery fabrics, fine shears, fleece, felt and
synthetic suedes.

THREAD TYPES & TIPS

There are several types of thread. Your project will
typically dictate the type of thread you will need, as
will your machine. When picking your thread, make
sure to check your instruction manual because
using the wrong kind could damage your machine.
In most cases, though, you’ll need to use an all-
purpose thread. JOANN carries 3 major brands of
thread: Coats & Clark, Gutermann and Sulky®.

Sulky® is used for machine embroidery. Its

decorative thread is made from rayon and is not for
basic sewing. Both Coats & Clark and Gutermann
offer all-purpose sewing thread along with machine
embroidery thread and several other specialty
threads.
All-Purpose - polyester or cotton wrapped
polyester; strong with a bit of give; suitable for
most machine and hand sewing projects

Cotton - strong with no give and a silky finish;

suitable for basic machine or hand sewing projects;
not suggested for sewing knits

Hand Quilting - 100% natural mercerized cotton;

strong with a silk-like luster for HAND quilting;
coated so it slides easily through layers of fabric

Machine Quilting - 100% cotton thread; strong

with a silk-like luster suitable for machine sewing;
especially good for long arm machine quilting

Silk - fine and often used for embroidery; ideal for

sewing silk, wool and basting all fabrics; does not
leave holes and is very flexible

Heavy Duty / Upholstery / Strong Outdoor - 100%

polyester; perfect for sewing upholstery, vinyl,
leather and heavyweight fabrics; strong outdoor
thread is UV resistant.

Jeans or Topstitch - heavy-duty polyester or cotton

covered polyester; used for decorative seams
and ornamental stitches; change to a topstitching
needle and larger needle size to accommodate the
thicker thread.

Button and Carpet – strong and heavy hand sewing

thread; coated to prevent tangling

Machine Embroidery - either rayon or polyester,

for decorative uses; good sheen and very smooth;
Should not be used for garment construction

Invisible / Transparent - either nylon or polyester;

strong but nylon thread is not heat resistant (a
hot iron could melt it); can become brittle from
laundering and exposure over time; can be a little
difficult to work with

Metallic - decorative stitching or embroidery;

can be used for hand or machine sewing; breaks
easily; try using Dritz Sewers Aid when sewing with
metallic thread
Elastic - thread with fine elastic within it; used for
smocking or shirring

THREAD TIPS
• When sewing a stretchy fabric such as a knit or
Spandex, use polyester thread as it has some
give to it.

• Cotton thread is not as strong as polyester but

works well for patchwork or quilting, lighter-
weight cotton fabrics and woven natural fiber
fabrics.
• For sturdy fabrics that take a lot of wear,
polyester would work well, as it is strong.

• When selecting thread color for your fabric,

select a shade darker as the thread looks lighter
when sewn.
• Do not use hand sewing thread in the machine;
it is for hand sewing only.

• Rayon embroidery thread is designed for

decorative stitches and machine embroidery
where a sheen is desired. It is not strong enough
to use for construction.

• For bold topstitching, as on jeans, heavy-

duty thread gives a nice finish. Change to a
topstitching needle and larger needle size to
accommodate the thicker thread.

• Invisible thread is generally clear nylon or

polyester that does not show much when sewn.

• Serger thread is a thin polyester thread on a

cone for use on sergers when three or more
threads are used together in a seam.

• In most cases, the same thread should also be

used in the bobbin. For machine embroidery,
there is special bobbin thread that comes
in black and white. When using topstitching
thread, all-purpose thread is often used in the
bobbin. When sewing heavy duty items, such
as canvas and upholstery, the heavier thread
should be used for both the needle and the
bobbin.
OTHER SEWING SUPPLIES
Pin Cushion – a small stuffed cushion to store
sewingg pins or needles with sharp points down.

Tape Measure – a non-stretch, flexible tape

measure is used to take body measurements to
correctly size patterns or quickly measure an object
or space.

Marking Tools – marking pencils or chalk are

nonpermanent ways to mark fabric for basic sewing.

Seam Ripper – used to remove unwanted stitches

or to open buttonholes. They have a pointed tip
that slips easily under stitches and a cutting blade
in the curve that slices through those unwanted
stitches.

Elastic Threaders – a device to easily insert elastic

into casings.

Thimbles -- A thimble aids in repetitive hand

sewing tasks by protecting the fingertip from
abrasion and accidental piercing. It also helps to
push the needle through difficult or multiple layers
of fabric.

Beeswax -- To prevent tangles and knots in the

thread when hand sewing, pull thread through
beeswax to coat the thread.

Needle Pullers -- Lightweight, flexible needle

pullers are essential to hand sewing, especially
when stitching through heavy fabrics such as denim
and leather or multiple fabric layers.

Steam Iron -- used to press seams before sewing.

Sewing 101
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
courtesy of Dritz
Before you begin a project, practice stitching with
your machine. There’s no need to thread your
machine. You can draw straight lines and curvy
lines on a piece of plain paper and sew on the lines.
The needle will perforate the paper and leave a
trail of small holes, letting you check your accuracy.
Once you feel comfortable, try threading your
machine and practice stitching on a scrap piece of
fabric. It’s that easy!

STITCHING A SEAM

• Pin two pieces of fabric, right sides together,

near the edge. Make sure the pins are placed
perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.

• Place your fabric piece under the needle. A

common seam allowance is 5/8 inch, so make
sure the fabric edge is lined up on the correct
line of your sewing gauge or throat plate, the flat
metal piece that the needle goes through.

• Lower the presser foot, which will keep pressure

on the fabric and help move it through the
machine at a steady pace.

• Lower the needle slowly. Try moving the hand

wheel to lower the needle, making sure to hold
on to the thread tails until a couple of stitches
are made.

• Press the foot pedal and begin sewing the seam.

Continue sewing, removing pins as you come to
them so you don’t accidently hit one.

TIP: Always start with your needle in the highest

position.

SEWING A SHARP CORNER

• When you want to turn the corner, lower the

needle all the way into the fabric. You can use
the hand wheel to do this.
• Raise the presser foot but leave the needle
down in the fabric.

• Rotate the fabric ¼ inch turn, leaving the needle

in the down position.

• Lower the presser foot with the fabric in the new

position and continue stitching.

Once you are comfortable with the basics, you

can try your first project. Look for an easy pattern.
Pillows, pillowcases and aprons are all good
beginner projects. As your confidence builds, you
can try a pair of shorts or a skirt. When you’re ready,
check out our Field Guides to Apparel and Home
Decor for more advanced sewing projects.

PRESSING
A good steam iron is essential to the sewing
process as ironing is an important step in the
construction process.

• Use a press cloth when ironing to prevent shine

on ironed fabric. Always use the press cloth
when applying fusible interfacing.

• If fabrics have shiny metallic threads, set iron to

low temperature.

• Use a seam roll cushion to press seams open

without leaving imprints.

• Before pressing a synthetic fabric, test on a

sample of the fabric and adjust temperature as
needed.
Patterns
PICKING A PATTERN
courtesy of Simplicity

Patterns are grouped together by type in pattern

catalogs in the store. Navigate to the section that
has the type of pattern you’re looking for (e.g.
dresses, shorts, costumes, pillows), then take note
of the following information.

Pattern Number -- use this number to find the

corresponding pattern in the pattern drawers

Pattern Views -- these drawings show what other

views, or versions, are included in the pattern. For
instance, with one dress pattern, you may be able
to version it with short or long-sleeves, or with
different skirt lengths.

Pattern Size & Body Measurement Chart -- use

the body measurement chart in the catalog to help
you determine which size pattern to pull from the
pattern drawer. Sizes are specific to pattern brands
and are different from what you might wear from
clothing stores.

Once you’ve selected a pattern from the drawer,

use the back of the pattern envelope as a shopping
list for the fabric and notions you’ll need to
complete your project. You’ll find suggested types
of fabric for best results, a list of notions needed for
each view of the pattern (you may not need them
all) and a yardage chart. The yardage chart tells you
how much fabric you’ll need for the size and pattern
view you’re sewing. Fabrics typically come in 45
and 60 inch widths, so yardage amounts are listed
for each.
USING A PATTERN
To use a sewing pattern, follow these simple steps:

• Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric according to

the pattern’s cutting layout.

• Use a marking pencil to trace the pattern

onto your fabric. Be sure to transfer all of the
markings and cutting notches. Every pattern
uses a series of symbols to indicate design
elements, such as buttonholes, gathers and
cutting notches.

• Cut all of the fabric pieces out using a good pair

of sewing shears.

• Cut out each of the pattern pieces using the

cutting guide lines for the size you’re making.

• Sew the pieces together according to the step-

by-step instructions on the pattern.

Tips & Tricks

• Never leave pins in fabric for long periods of
time, as the metal could leave marks.

• Old thread on wooden or Styrofoam spools

breaks easily and should not be used. Save the
wooden spools for your antique collection, and
purchase new thread for sewing.

• Wrap spools of thread and filled bobbins with

narrow strips of vinyl to store neatly.

• An alternative to a pin cushion is to glue

magnets to the bottom of a small plate or bowl
to keep your pins in place.

• Do not sew over pins. Remove them as they

get near the sewing foot, or use binding clips
designed to be sewn over.
• Use long pins for loose weave, thick or bulky
fabrics or synthetic furs. Short pins get lost in
the fabric.

• Use a lint roller to pick up stray threads on the

ironing board and sewing area.

• Use a magnet to pick up pins that fall on the

floor or in the carpet.

• Stick pins in a bar of soap before working with

heavyweight fabrics. The soap helps the pins
slide more easily through the fabric.

• Always mark your pattern on the wrong side of

the fabric.

• Trouble with thread twisting creating a knot

while hand sewing? Run thread through
beeswax.

• Don’t have heavy thread for topstitching? Use

two spools of thread, and thread them through
your machine as one thread and use a larger
sewing needle.

• Trouble with vinyl, leather, pleather or plastic

dragging while sewing or topstitching? Use a
Teflon-coated foot or place Magic Scotch Tape
on the bottom of foot. It works like magic!

• Draw the pattern line and the seam allowance

at the same time by rubber-banding two pencils
together, magically giving you the right amount
of space between each line.

• Don’t have a needle threader handy? Spray the

end of the thread with a little hairspray to make
it stiffer and easier to poke through the eye of
the needle.

• Keep losing your scissors? Thread them on a

long ribbon and wear them around your neck so
you always know where they are when it’s time
to snip.
• Patterns tear easily. Get more use out of them by
ironing interfacing on the back of them, making
them sturdier for storing and reusing.

• A steam iron is an essential tool when sewing,

but it doesn’t reach between buttons very well.
Try a hair straightener for tight spaces!

• If you have a craft table, adhere a measuring

tape to the edge for easy measuring and
cutting.
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