The Basic Facial Preparation: Procedures: Protocol
The Basic Facial Preparation: Procedures: Protocol
11 Oval Drive, Suite 180 • Islandia, NY 11749 • Phone 631-582-4737 • Fax 631-582-4713
www.nyib.edu
NYIB Basic Facial
Facial Treatment Overview
Make-up remover
Cleanser
Toner
Massage #1 cream (facial massage)
Exfoliant (for client skin type)
Massage # 2 lotion or oil (body massage and hand and arm massage)
Masque (for client skin type and/or condition)
Moisturizer and SPF
Optional Skin Care Products that require an “Up Charge” ($10.00 for each)
▪ Electrotherapy (High Frequency or Galvanic)
▪ Concentrate
▪ Ampoule
▪ Specialty Mask (Oatmeal or Contour)
▪ Multivitamin Eye and Lip Firm
Exfoliation Products
Cotton Pads
Items Needed to Make Cotton Pads
1. Sanitize hands, both sides. Unroll the cotton. Put on gloves. Divide the cotton
into strips approximately four by six inches. This is about the width of the average
hand. Tear the cotton (do not use scissors) so that the edges are frayed and the
cleansing pads are less lumpy when the edges are folded under.
2. To make a round cleansing pad, hold one of the cotton strips in one hand and
pull downward with the hand until the cotton tears, making cotton squares
approximately four inches wide by five inches long. Three of these pieces will be
needed for each facial service.
3. Submerge the cotton pieces under water while the pad is supported by the
fingers. Tuck the edges of the cotton under and into the center of the pad while
turning your hands (the pad should be full in the center). If the pad is flimsy and limp
you may have been lifting the cotton out of the water when turning with hands.
4. Place the round pad in the palm of your hand, placing the other palm over the
pad. Squeeze out the excess water from the cotton. Do not squeeze between
the fingers of your hands or you will create ridges in the cotton pad.
page 4
Procedure to Make Small Cleansing Rounds
1. Makeup removal rounds are made following the same procedure as the
cleansing round pads. The only difference is to use cotton size of 2 ½” x 2 ½”.
Be careful not to make them as thick as the round cleansing pads.
1. Butterfly eye pads can be made with a strip piece of cotton approximately 2” x 6”
long. Submerge the strip into water. Twist the cotton strip in the center with one-
half turn. Fold the pad in half and squeeze out the excess water (squeeze out in
between the palms not the fingers).
Cotton Compress/Mummy Mask is made with a strip of cotton measuring four inches
by nine inches. Approximately the size of a hand and a half.
1. Measure the compress/ mummy mask on the strip of cotton. Using your hand
and a half.
2. Using both hands, submerge the cotton strip under water.
3. Before the cotton has a chance to spread out, take one end of the strip with your
right hand, lift the strip out of the water. Quickly place your left hand under the
opposite end of the strip.
4. Fold the strip in half, then half again.
5. Squeeze out the excess water from the strip between palms of both hands.
Treatment Area
Treatment Area Preparation
2. Sanitize work surfaces with disinfectant spray, using one paper towel wipe
down and let air dry.
5. Place a flat linen sheet over the facial bed. (for State Board, first put fitted sheet
on facial bed then the flat sheet.)
page 5
6. Place towel on facial bed for draping client’s head.
9. Once the utility cart is set up, check to see that all equipment is clean and in
working order, such as: magnifying lamp and steamer (vaporizer). If the
steamer needs to be filled, only an instructor can do so (using only distilled
water). When using other modalities prior preparation is required.
10. Prepare the client consultation, release forms, and service slip. Place all the
forms and the service on a clipboard. Make sure you have a pen with black ink
only!
Professionalism is required to work within the NYIB Clinic, and is a graded portion of
your State Board Practical exam. Always be prompt and ready to get started with the
client. Success is a matter of preparation and planning.
Once you are assigned a client from your Instructor, you’ll pull their paperwork from the
binders in the reception area. Take time to familiarize yourself with their skintype and
past treatments, and any contraindications.
page 6
Greeting the Client
1. Introduce yourself and warmly greet the client; make eye contact, extend a
handshake and confirm the service they are booked for.
2. If you are meeting a new guest, ask them to fill out the Client Consultation and
Client Release Forms. Returning guests need only initial the Client Release Form.
Supply them with a pen with black ink only.
3. Review the consultation and release forms. Verbally ask the client the following
questions:
4. Instruct the client to remove all body jewelry (earrings, necklace, rings, wrist jewelry and
wristwatch). Ask the client to place items in their purse/pocket. Advise the client that
the school is not responsible for lost or stolen items.
5. Show the client to the changing room where they will change for the service.
Instruct the client as to how the paper gown should be worn.
6. When the client has changed into the gown, escort them through the clinic to your
assigned treatment area.
7. Assist the client onto the facial bed. Check that the client is comfortable. It may be
necessary to place a bolster under the client’s knees for comfort. Make all facial
chair adjustments before draping the client.
Client Draping
1. Fold one half of the linen sheet over the client and repeat on the opposite side. Tuck
the sheet hanging at the end of the facial table under the client’s feet, do not tuck too
tight. Make any adjustments to the client drape.
page 7
3. Affix the head drape onto the client’s head. Pull one side of the towel up and over
the client’s head, repeat on the opposite side. Head drape should be snug, but not
too tight. Place bobby pin in center of the towel to secure.
4. Check that all hair is tucked in. Check the client’s earlobes to see that they are not
pinched or folded up. Earlobes should be exposed. Make adjustment if needed. You
are now ready to proceed with the facial.
1. Sanitize hands, both sides. Put on gloves, then sanitize gloves, both sides.
2. Using a spatula to remove product from palette, transfer makeup remover onto
two of the small makeup removal pads for the eyes. Discard used spatula.
3. Place rounds onto the eyes, allow to sit on eyes to dissolve eye makeup.
5. Wrap the single round over and around the pointer finger and wipe away
lipcolor from the outer corner of lips to center. Repeat on the other side of lips.
Do this 3 times, or until lip product is removed. Be sure no product remains on
the lips. Discard used pad.
6. Return to eyes. Removing one eye pad at a time, apply the ring and middle
finger above brow to hold eyelid steady.
7. Swipe eye pad gently down the lid using a downward movement beginning
from the inner part of the eye to the outer corner of the eye. Starting from the
outer corner of the eye, start a circular motion around the eye over eyebrow,
repeat entire movement (3x).
Cleanse
Product Application Procedure
2. Using a spatula to remove product from the palette, apply approximately one
teaspoon of the cleanser to the fingers of one hand.
page 8
3. Add a bit of water from the spray bottle, and begin to emulsify product onto both
hands.
4. Begin the application process. Start by patting product onto forehead and chin,
then both cheeks.
5. Starting at the neck, lightly move both hands outward, towards ears.
6. Reverse the hands follow jaw line from lower ear to chin.
2. Start on center of neck hand over hand rolling on neck (3x). Work to either side,
stop at the chin.
3. Kneading on jawline. Start at center of chin, moving from earlobe to earlobe. (3x)
4. Circle lip with thumbs. (3x) (do not break contact with the skin)
5. Slide to cheek, hand over hand rolling movement. Repeat on other side (1x)
6. Perform 3 circles on cheeks, from perimeter of face towards the nose, right side
and left side at the same time. (1x)
8. 3 circles on forehead, starting in middle working out towards temples, gently lift
hands off face.
Removal of Cleanser
1. Unwrap a large pad and create two (2) mitts for each hand by threading through
the index, middle and ring fingers.
page 9
2. Start at center of neck, hand over hand rolling movement from middle to right,
back to middle, to the left continue hand over hand rolling movement end under
chin. (1x)
3. Using both hands slide mitts along jaw line stopping under ears, then back to
chin (3x)
4. Move mitts outward to right cheek with hand over hand movement, move back to
chin, then to the left cheek, back to chin. Repeat; center 1x, right 1x, left 1x back
to center.
5. Place tips of mitts under nose above upper lip. Use pressure from your fingertip
to swipe outward using both hands at the same time (3x)
6. Place mitts on forehead, between eyebrows, slide down side of nose, and
outward over cheeks to temple (3x)
7. Starting at center of forehead, hand over hand movement to the right side, back
to center left side, back to center slide to temples and gently lift hands of the
face. (1x)
Skin Analysis
Skin Analysis Procedure
1. Sanitize gloved hands, both sides.
5. Looking through the magnifying lamp, observe the client’s skin. Begin at the
neck moving up to the forehead.
page 10
▪ On the cheek, lightly pinch the skin to feel the texture. Note if the skin is
thin, medium or thick.
▪ On the forehead, cheek and chin you will test for sensitivity. Use the pad of
your thumb to press firmly and lift quickly. Note how fast the capillaries refill
with blood.
▪ Observe pore size. Note if the pore size is small, medium or large,
beginning in T-zone, then moving outwards to cheeks.
▪ Determine clients skin type.
▪ Finally, note any additional skin conditions.
Massage One
Massage #1 is a fundamental facial massage, to continue the cleansing process. You
will perform this at State Board and for your NYIB Basic Facial. You will use Massage
#1 Cream, or the massage medium called for in your Advanced Facial protocol. When
performing any massage, it’s important you do not break contact with the skin. Focus on
correct pressure and a smooth, even tempo.
Massage #1
3. With the middle and ring fingers of each hand, start upward stokes in the middle of
the forehead near the brow line. Working towards the hairline, move towards the
right temple, and moving back across the forehead to the left temple, and back to
the center of the forehead (3X).
4. With the middle finger of each hand, start tiny circular movements up and down
from the middle of the forehead along the brow line towards the temple. Then slide
back to the middle center of the forehead and repeat movement. The rows should
be horizontal starting from the brows, moving back towards the hairline. (3X).
5. Using the middle and ring fingers of each hand, start a crisscross stroking
movement at the center of the forehead and working your way to the right temple
then across the forehead to the left temple, ending in the middle of forehead (3X).
page 11
6. Place the pads of the ring finger under the inside corners of the eyebrows
(pressure point) and the middle fingers over the eyebrows. Scissor the eyebrows
to the temple area, once at the temples, starting tiny circular movements with the
pad of the middle finger below the temple. Make tiny circle movements up and
down under the eyes towards the bridge of nose. Slide back up the bridge of the
nose to pressure point between brows and repeat (3x).
8. Gently glide down the bridge of the nose. Start tiny circular movements down the
nose and continue across the cheeks to the temples. Slide the fingers under the
eyes and back to the pressure point and hold then repeat (3x).
9. This is a 3-part movement. A) Slide over brow to temple and pause before sliding
down to center of the chin. B) Perform petrissage on the chin area only (not the
entire jaw line). C) Slide up to the corners of the mouth and make 3 small circles,
then slide up the bridge of nose and repeat (3x).
11. With the middle finger of each hand start a circular movement at the center of the
chin and move up to the earlobes. Slide the middle fingers to the corner of the
mouth, and then continue the circular movements to the middle of the ear. Slide
the middle fingers to the corners of the nose and continue the circular movements
to the top of the ear. Slide back to the chin and repeat (3x).
12. Scissor the mouth area with the ring and middle fingers of each hand; alternate this
movement from one side of the face to the other (3x).
13. With the middle finger of both hands, draw the fingers from the center of the upper
lip, around the mouth, under the lower lip, and continue under the chin. Slide back
to starting point and repeat (3x). This movement should resemble the number “8”.
14. Scissor the jaw line, with the index finger above the jaw line and the middle, ring
and little finger under the jaw line, alternate this movement from one side of the
face to the other (3x)
15. Apply light upward circular movements over the sides of the neck (3x).
17. Remove massage cream with mitts following the removal procedure.
18. Flip mitt, spray with toner and perform removal procedure.
Exfoliation
page 12
Exfoliant Products
There are two types of exfoliant that are used during the steaming of skin. One is a
granular scrub and the second is an enzymatic powder. Select the exfoliant type
appropriate for the client’s skin.
The steamer should be preheated during Treatment Area Preparation. Steam should
never be used more than ten (10) minutes during a facial.
1. Turn on the steamer. Wait for it to start steaming. The steamer must have
steam coming from the nozzle before bringing it over to the client’s skin.
2. Turn on the Ozone (nebulizer). This will give the steam a cloud like appearance.
3. Place the steamer nozzle toward the face at a distance of about sixteen inches.
The steam should be enveloping the top shoulders, neck and the full face of the
client.
4. Quietly ask the client if the steam is comfortable and positioned well. If not,
make necessary adjustments to the steamer position.
5. Steam the client’s face for two (2) minutes while preparing the exfoliant.
1. Apply the product to front of the hands and spread evenly over the back of
the hands.
2. With steamer running, start from the neck up toward the forehead gently
pat on the granular scrub. Use both hands simultaneously when patting
onto the skin.
3. Use the pads of your ring and middle fingers starting on the neck working
up to the forehead make small circular movements. Do not press the
granules into the skin they should roll under the fingers.
5. Allow product to work with just the steam for two (2) minutes longer.
6. While product and steam are on face perform a light scalp massage.
page 13
Enzymatic Powder (Daily Microfoliant)
1. **Use only 1/8 of a teaspoon of this product.** The powder enzyme must
be mixed well with warm water into a frothy, foam-like consistency. To
obtain this result, whip vigorously with a facial brush. Steam must be used
with this product.
2. Using a facial brush, apply the product evenly starting from the upper
neck. Work upward to the forehead in smooth strokes.
3. Allow product to work with just the steam for 5-7 minutes. Do not work
this product around it is not a scrub.
4. While product and steam are on face perform a light scalp massage.
3. Place the center of the folded edge of towel directly on top of the client’s
chin but do not cover the mouth.
4. Drape the warm towel so that it covers the upper part of the neck, jaw,
upper chin and the cheeks.
5. Fold the ends of the towel over each other on the forehead.
7. Shut off the steamer before removing towel as not to shock the client.
8. Remove the warm towel with both ends simultaneously from the forehead
down to the upper neck.
Extractions
page 14
Extractions should always be approached with care. Not all clients will require
extractions, and when they do most cannot tolerate more than 10 minutes of this
procedure. You will simulate extractions for the State Board facial.
2. Use Ziploc bag with 1/8 of a teaspoon disincrustation product in it. Rub bag to
foam the product or Apply gel disincrustation product to skin.
5. Blot areas with tissue then extract the area (see steps below).
Extraction Procedure
1. Sanitize gloved hands, both sides.
2. Disinfect magnifying lamp and sanitize both sides of hands again.
3. Unfold the Extraction Pad to its original shape and divide in half.
4. Place one piece in the plastic bowl.
5. Separate the other piece in half to create “tips” for your fingers. Place the
cotton piece in the index finger of the right hand and twist the excess cotton
tightly around the finger tip. Secure twist with the middle finger.
6. Repeat on the other index finger.
7. Begin Extractions.
page 15
Always work extractions from neck up toward the forehead as not to infect extracted
areas of the skin. Be extremely careful not to break capillaries or bruise the skin!
Chin: On the chin area with the index fingers press down and out to separate the skin.
Using an up movement work the debris out of the follicle. Do not pinch the skin if this
happens re-separate the skin (taut) and try again.
Bridge and the Tip of the Nose: Use light and gently pressure with the covered tips of
index fingers to work the debris out of the follicle. Be extremely careful in this area due to
cartilage.
Nostrils and Sides of Nose: Brace the opposite side of the nostril to be extracted with
the pad of the thumb and index finger for extractions. Using a gently sliding motion with
other index finger, dislodge debris from the nostril crease. Be sure to use caution due to
cartilage.
Cheeks: On the cheek area with the index finger press down and out to separate the
skin. Using an up movement work the debris out of the follicle. Do not pinch the skin. If
this happens re-separate the skin (taut) and try again.
Forehead: On the forehead area with the index finger press down and out to separate
the skin. Using an up movement work the debris out of the follicle. Do not pinch the
skin if this happens re-separate the skin (taut) and try again.
Treatment Mask
Basic Mask Application
Brushes are not to be used in mask application at State Board. You should become
familiar with applying masks using spatulas, brushes and fingers.
page 16
1. Sanitize gloves, both sides.
2. Apply Butterfly/Eyepad.
3. Using large spatula, remove mask product from palette. Place mask product on
fingers of hand. Smooth mask product onto fingertips of both hands
4. Start application on upper neck. Spread mask from center of neck outward.
Return to center and work outward, move up the face and repeat this until you
come to the lip area.
5. Using the middle finger of each hand, apply the mask between the upper lip and
nose area moving from the center out towards the cheeks.
6. Apply mask simultaneously using the middle and ring fingers of each hand in a
downward motion on the bridge of the nose to the nostrils. Avoid getting the
mask in orbits of eye.
7. Place fingers of both hands on a point in between the brows. Move from the
center of the forehead to the right, back to the center, then to the left side of the
forehead.
9. Remove any excess mask product from the hands. Sanitize hands.
11. During this time, perform Massage #2 and Hand and Arm Massage.
12. Apply Cotton Compress Mask (Mummy Mask) when you are ready to remove
product.
13. Unfold cotton compress, divide into 3 pieces. Make sure each seam meets the
next for a uniform application.
1) First piece starting at the base of the neck ending at the jawline (thinnest
piece).
2) Second piece starting at tip of the chin to just below the nose (make a
hole for the mouth area).
3) Third piece starting at the tip of the nose with the nostrils sticking out up to
the hairline (your thickest piece).
Massage #2
2. Apply Massage #2 lotion onto the fingers of one hand and distribute the product
over the fingers of both hands. You may now apply the product to the client’s
shoulders, neck and face.
3. With both hands (palms down) on the upper part of the chest, move the hands
outward and around the shoulders to the center of the back (effleurage) and up
on the neck (use a firm lifting movement here). Let the hands follow the contour
of the client’s body. (3x)
4. With the pads of your fingertips, make circular movements from the center of the
chest outward to the shoulders. When the hands reach the back of the client,
hands will automatically turn up. Continue circular movements until you reach the
neck. Then do one strong pulling (effleurage) motion up to the occipital bone.
Transition back to the starting position. (3x).
5. Using the palms of your hands, start upward movements at the base of the neck
rotating one hand after the other (effleurage) towards the occipital bone. (6x).
6. Gently move client’s head to one side. Begin at occipital bone, your thumb will be
on top and fingers underneath client. Slowly, firmly glide down the neck and
shoulder, ending at the end of the deltoid muscle. Perform a petrissage
movement on the deltoid (6x). Move client’s head back to center. Gently move
client’s head to opposite side and repeat (6x). Bring head back to center when
finished.
page 18
7. To transition, perform one Effleurage Movement down around the shoulders until
you reach the back of the neck. Here you will knead the trapezius muscle. Place
your four fingers under the muscle, so your thumb will be showing on top. Work
both sides at the same time.
2. Working from wrist to shoulder, then down to fingertips, apply Massage #2 cream
to client’s hands and arms with light effleurage. Repeat three times 3(x).
3. Lift client’s arm gently from table. Interlace your fingers with that of your client’s,
and with your opposite hand support their wrist. Gently limber the wrist by
rotating in one direction three times 3(x), then opposite direction three times 3(x).
4. Secure guest’s upper arm onto the table, allowing you access to the palm of the
hand. Holding the back of their hand, use both thumbs simultaneously to knead
the palm. Use circular friction motions.
5. Turn palm down to access the top of the hand and fingers. Perform circular
friction on each finger, working out to the fingertip.
6. When finished, place arm down on table gently and feather off.
When finished with these Massages, return to complete the Treatment Masque
removal sequence.
1. Apply moisturizer and SPF using product application procedure. Be sure product
is penetrated into the skin before finishing. Client should not look greasy.
page 19
NYIB Basic Signature Facial
Prepare:
UltraCalming Cleanser
All Cotton Pads
Appropriate cleanser for skin type
Toner of Choice, Hand Sanitizer, Gloves and Water spray bottle
Daily Microfoliant or Skin Prep Scrub (appropriate for skin type – fanbrush and mixing
bowl for Microfoliant or 1 Hot Towel for Skin Prep Scrub)
Colloidal or Plankton Masque Base (appropriate for skin type)
Massage #1 Cream and Massage #2 Cream
Moisturizer appropriate for skin type/ SPF
Protocol:
• Remove makeup from eyes and lips with UltraCalming Cleanser
• Cleanse face with Ultracalming cleanser. Remove with cotton pads.
• Tone with mitts.
• Cover eyes with butterfly pad and perform Skin Analysis.
• Cleanse face with the appropriate cleanser according to skin type.
• Perform Massage #1 using Massage #1 Cream.
• Exfoliation. If skin’s barrier is intact, proceed with application of Daily Microfoliant using a
fanbrush under steam. To prepare: Use a dime size amount of daily microfoliant mixed with
water. Whip together to create a foam/ frothy like consistency. Leave on the skin for 7
minutes. For oily or congested skin use Skin Prep Scrub. Massage into skin with gentle
circular movements for 1 minute. Allow the exfoliant to remain on the skin for a total of 7
minutes. Perform a Scalp massage while using either exfoliants.
• Remove with mitts then Tone with mitts. Only use a hot towel to remove Skin Prep Scrub
• Perform Extractions if necessary. Use Scaling Fluid as directed, and finish with sanitation
technique (biohazard Ziploc, etc.)
• Using your fingers, apply a thin layer of Masque (Colloidal or Plankton). Leave on for a total
of 10-12 minutes. During this time, perform Massage #2 and Hand & Arm Massage, using
Massage #2 Cream.
• Apply three- piece compress mask (mummy mask)
• Remove the compress mask in three sections
• Tone with mitts
• Moisturize. Apply moisturizer to face and neck.
page 20