FlightSimMaker

3D Printed Flight Sim Community

Last Revised: January 24, 2023
Join the Builder Community with Discord: Link
Consider supporting on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/FlightSimMaker
Special Note:
This guide is mainly for the first version of the project.
We Have a new version available.
This Document will be updated soon. For the latest
info please go the the FlightSimMaker Discord
https://discord.gg/5a7ZCYYwsj
 Welcome to the 3D Printed Flight Sim Community
Under the name FlightSimMaker, I started making 3D printed flight sim
components and releasing the designs for free. Over time my original 3D printed
G1000 has grown into a community project. In the Discord there are many user
submitted designs and modifications, as well as a lot of helpful users. This is just a
hobby for me, so how much time I’m able to work on it comes and goes. As more
and more people have contributed to the project, I feel there is a need to better
organize the files in one central location. My moto from the beginning has been,
“Flying is expensive, flight simulation shouldn't be”
 Table of Contents
System Overview
How to Order PCBs
PCB Pinouts and Wiring
LCD Displays
United Kingdom Part Suppliers
User file Uploads
Builder Photos
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder
Version 1 PCB Historical slides
Overall System
The circuit boards sets will let you build 2 10.4” G1000s, 1 15” center MFD and the
associated GCU475 Keyboard to be used with a Arduino and SimVimX, Mobiflight
or AirManger.

These PCBS will work with X-Plane11. FSX, Prepar3D, MSFS2020 or any other
Sim that you are willing to interface them with.

The instructions here are very basic, and the most up to

date instructions for interfacing should be referenced from
the interfacing program’s website.

This is MSFS2020 using 2 BBI-32 boards from LeoBodnar. Most of

the buttons don't work because of MSFS underdeveloped G1000.
There are other ways to get it work with MSFS2020.
System Overview with SimVimX
Allows the use of 1 Arduino and breakout board to have 244 inputs or outputs while still having
access to all the other functions available with SimVimX. Good for modular and clean wiring.

10.4” Softkey PCB

Ribbon cable with dupont
connectors

16 channel MUX
(16 input or outputs)

8 wire ribbon cable

Arduino Mega 2560

4 Address lines, 1 5v, 1 GND, 14 signal(1 per MUX board)

System Overview with Mobiflight or Air Manager
Requires multiple Arduinos wired directly to the PCBs but works with other programs such as FSX,
P3D, and to some extent MSFS2020 with MobiFlight.

*Sample image is not fully wired, every pin on the PCB would need a wire hooked to the arduino
G1000 / GCU475 Manufactured Circuit Boards
These manufactured circuit boards are not required
to make the G1000 and GCU475, however, they
make wiring easier, allow for backlighting, and the
overall build look cleaner.

After wiring up your modules, you can complete the

look by 3d printing the G1000 bezel. Check out
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4019943for the
10.4” & 12.1” G1000 and
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4594657 for the
GCU475.
How to Order PCBs PCB files available on
discord!
Unable to mail PCBs at this time!
I’m currently unable to sell PCBs. The
gerber files are located on the discord to
have them made by companies like
JLCpcb..
 AudioPanel
GCU475 Shield(SimVimX)

PCB Identification
PanZoom
Autopilot

Encoder
FlipFlop

GCU475

Mux Breakout
FMS
Mux PCB

10.4” Softkey
Tips and how-to in order to assemble the G1000/GCU475 Panels

Watch this YouTube Video for good overview of all of the components and
how they go together:

TIP: When soldering up the boards, pay attention to which side of the board
each of the components gets soldered!
MUX Breakout Board P14 P7

This is the bridge between your Arduino and up to 14 IO MUX boards.

Allows up to 224 in/output connections via the 14 multiplexers.

Use 120-300 ohm resistors for S0,S1,S2,S3 to protect the Arduino.

Connect the Signal pin to either EN for outputs or SIG for inputs
(inputs are buttons, switches etc.)
EN
Signal
SIG

Pin Layout

P13 P11 P9 P7 P5 P3 P1 S2 S0 G P1

P14 P12 P10 P8 P6 P4 P2 S3 S1 5V

*Green and blue boards are the same

MUX Breakout Board
This is how the board will look
with all the pins set to input.
Setting Up An Output For SimVimX
Switch the Jumper Pin and
attach a Jumper
wire(yellow) from the Sig
Pin 26 on the Arduino.

SimVimX says 1 output

board should be enough
for most systems.
G1000 V2 Boards with Backlighting (5V is preferred)
Multiplexer added directly to the 4 Extra Inputs
autopilot PCB to reduce wiring.
Autopilot PCB SimVimX vs Mobiflight/Airanager
Comparison of how the Autopilot PCB will Mobiflight/AirManager
look with SimVimX vs Mobi/Air Manager
Bu
tto
LED Power n pin
SimVimX 4 Extra Inputs s

Ground Pin
 Multiplexers for SimVimX
● CD74HC4067 modules (16-channel multiplexers)-Sold separately
● V1(Green) and V2(Blue) are the same in functionality.

Pull Up resistor to eliminate

signal noise and false
inputs.(Important around
the LCD monitor)
GCU475 w/Shield Assembled
Uses 4 Multiplexers and has 6 extra
inputs.

Uses 1 Leo Bodnar Dual Encoder.

Round Shafts - Get Knob from Leo or Discord!

1 Pan/Zoom RKJXT1F42001
GCU 475 MUX SHIELD Pin Guide for SimVimX
P1 P2 P3 P4 P2 P1
0 INPUT 1 0 FMS BTN 0 Z 0 2

1 INPUT 2 1 FMS OUTER 1 Y 1 1

2 INPUT 3 2 FMS OUTER 2 X 2 4

6
3 INPUT 4 3 FMS INNER 3 W 3 3
5
4
4 INPUT 5 4 FMS INNER 4 V 4 6
3
2
5 INPUT 6 5 DCT 5 U 5 5
1
6 A 6 MENU 6 T 6 8

7 B 7 FPL 7 S 7 7

8 C 8 PROC 8 R 8 PLUS/MINUS

9 D 9 A pan 9 Q 9 9

10 E 10 B pan 10 P 10 PERIOD

11 F 11 C pan 11 O 11 0

12 G 12 D pan 12 N 12 ENT

13 H 13 BTN PAN 13 M 13 CLR

14 I 14 ZOOM + 14 L 14 SPC P4 P3
15 J 15 ZOOM - 15 K 15 BKSP
LCD Displays - 10.4” and 15”
● 10.4” LCD Display - Available from ebay or Amazon
○ Shipping times are faster than posted on ebay (3-7 days reported instead of 2-3 weeks for the US)
○ This display has tabs that need to be removed to fit in the bezel (see next slide)
○ Very nice quality of display image (high contrast and clear)
○ Jan 2020 - April 2021: Issue with control board (see slide after next below)
● If not using the links above, look for an LCD with these specs:
○ Resolution 1024x768 (or better)
○ Viewing Angle 85/85/85/85 (Typ.)(CR≥10) [Left / Right / Up / Down]
○ Brightness 500 cd/m² (Typ.) Contrast Ratio 700:1 (Typ.) (TM)
● ebay 15” Center MFD LCD Display (TBM900 center display)
● For the above displays, you will need a 12V 2A Power Supply
○ 5.55mm Plug - Center Positive Polarity
○ 2-Pack from Amazon Suggestion
10.4” LCD Display - Tab Removal
The display has 4 mounting tabs that need to be removed in order to fit in the 3-D
printed bezel. It is not very difficult, but here are some tips:

1 - You can carefully remove the top bezel by carefully prying out the mini
tabs holding it in place and it will separate completely from the rest of the display.
From there, I bent those tabs to be in line with the rest of the bezel. You could also try
bending them back and forth until they break off, but be careful to not bend the
surrounding material to deform the screen protector and it’s frame.

2 - The back portion is just aluminum, so bend those tabs back and forth a
few times and they break off cleanly. Be careful not to damage the display itself which
is attached.

3 - The center plastic tabs that remain can be easily clipped off with diagonal
cutters. Again, use caution to not cut the power cable that is located near one of the
tabs.
10.4” LCD Displays - Control Board Issue

● Jan 2021 - April 2021: Issue with LCD control board

● The manufacturer is developing a new version (as of spring 2021)
● It only detects HDMI signal 1/10 boots
● Workaround is to plug in HDMI cable w/in 2 seconds of applying power (when at full bright blue screen)
● Contact the seller and they will send you a replacement control board for $12 (to cover shipping)
○ ebay replacement board is larger and has HDMI, DVI, and VGA
● See Discord Chat dedicated to this subject for additional information
Misc Wiring Components
● Ribbon Cable
○ Suggest get 16 or 40-wire sets as they are more readily available and split off number of wires needed
○ Available online
● 110 pcs 2.54mm Straight Single Row PCB Board Female Pin Header Socket Connector Assortment Kit
○ Used to build sockets for stacking the I/O Mux boards and stacking the GCU board with the GCI IO board
○ 1x4 pin, 1x6 pin, 1x8 pin, 1x10 pin, 1x12 pin,1x16 pin, 1x20 pin, 1x40 pin sets
■ Need a bunch of 1x16’s!
○ Amazon.com $15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0785SP8PB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
○ NOTE: Can also just get 1x40 sets and cut to desired number of sockets
● 25-Pack 2X4 8 Pins 2.54mm 0.1" Pitch Dual Rows IDC Socket for 1.27mm 0.05" Spacking Flat Ribbon Cable, 8P FC Connector
○ These are for making the female connectors on the ribbon cable
○ Amazon.com $13 for 25 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017CMPM1A/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
● 0.1 Inch 1 x 20-pin Strip Single Male Header Single Row Straight
○ Single row header pins - used all over and cut to desired # of pins
○ TODO: Link - available all over
● 0.1 Inch 2 x 20-pin Strip Dual Male Header Double Row Straight Connector Pin Header GPIO (Pack of 20)
○ Double row header pins - used all over and cut to desired # of pins
○ Amazon $8 for 20 sets of 2x20 pins https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083DYVWDN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
● 8-Pin (2x4 Pins) 2.54mm Pitch Straight Connector Pin IDC Box Headers - (15 Pcs)
○ Used to connect MUX boards - You will need at least 30 of these
○ Amazon $6 for 15 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WPBQPBT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Knobs, Switches, and Pushbuttons
Pan/Zoom and Rotary Switch w/ Push:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/alps/rkjxt1f42001/?qs=6EGMNY9ZYDTsBzSTrhiL0w%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Single Rotary with Pushbutton - 10 Pcs EC11 Rotary Encoder Dode Switch Audio Digital Potentiometer with Switch - 15MM
Used for the Heading Knob on the G1000 - Can also be used in set of 2 w/ 3-d printed adapter to make dual-concentric
See YouTube Video for reference: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcThkkL4uKw
August 29, 2020 - Amazon showing currently sold out - I believe they are available on eBay as well
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D3D64X7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alps Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder w/ Pushbutton and knobs: About $15/ea (EC11EBB24C03)
Available from OnlineComponents.com (and others) : https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/alps-electric/ec11ebb24c03-10113588.html

Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder w/ Pushbutton and knobs: (High Quality but $$):
Available at Leo Bodnar: 20GBP for Switch and 5GBP for Knobs http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_75&products_id=196

Dual Concentric Rotary Encoder w/ Pushbutton and includes knobs: (These are slightly smaller but much less expensive - especially in the US)
Available for $13 (w/ knobs) at Propwash Sim https://www.propwashsim.com/store/dual-encoder-kit

Buttons: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W0YUV1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Misc Electrical Components
2-pk of 12v Power Supplies (for LCD Monitors)
2 Pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077PW5JC3/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3PCHCFVFJ1YJA

Surface Mount LEDs (for panel backlighting):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CUGACEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3mm White LEDs for Audio Panel

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077XFLX13/

LED Resistors: 15 ohm for 5v and 68 ohm for 12v

Available at many places

Resistors:
For Signal Lines on MUX Breakout Board: 120-300 ohm for S0-S3
PER MUX Shield: 2k-10k ohm
Hardware
● The mounting holes for the G1000 PCBs are 2.032mm (0.080”) in diameter

● M2x5mm screws for mounting all the PCBs

● You can always hot glue to PCBs to the G1000 as well

● If you mount the IO MUX boards directly, you can use up to #4 screws on them

● GCU475 Faceplate uses QTY 4 - 5mm diameter (x25mm length) Socket Head Screws

● Low Profile M5 used on the Bezel and GCU475 can be found here

● #1 x 5/16” Pan Head Screws worked well for the Audio Panel
United Kingdom Component Suppliers
RS Components uk.rs-online.com
Item No: 7816815 Encoder 15mm Shaft W/Switch 12 Pulses (rotary encoders)
Item No: 4791413 6x6mm Tactile Push Button Switch 5mm (push buttons)
Item No: 8323569 Amphenol T821 2x4 IDC PCB Header (for the breakout board and multiplexer PCBs)
Item No: 8323641 Amphenol IDC Connector Socket For Cable Mount (for making up ribbon cable connectors)

RS Components for other countries (see here for countries available at rs-online.com)
All items listed above (same Item No) are available in every local RS components web sites

Amazon UK
Multiplexer PCBs x5 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07VF14YNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
16 Way Grey Ribbon Cable 30m Reel https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07WFMFN27/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Double Row PCB Header https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DJYQ5CH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Single Row PCB Header https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00R1IQ940/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Single Row Female PCB Header Kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08D3DHKJL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
SimVimX for X-Plane11
SimVimX is a FREE plugin for X-Plane11 that takes
advantage of multiplexers and is an extremely
awesome plugin.

To get started with SimVimX click here.

They are constantly improving their plugin, so I won't

be posting “how to” articles on here.
GCU 475 SimVimX and HotStart TBM
In order for the GCU 475 to function properly with the Hotstart TBM you need to
add a file from HCSCI to the TBM folder.
Get the file and instructions here: ! Custom Aircraft Data Conversion ! -
Instruction Highlights: The file is called “simvim_TBM900_Hotstart.dat” and is placed in the TBM Folder:
X-Plane 11\Aircraft\X-Aviation\TBM-900

The downloaded conversion (TBM900_Hotstart.dat) file must be placed in the folder of the aircraft it is used for - the
same folder where the aircraft's "*.acf" file is located.

* Feb 2022 - Newer versions incorporate the HotstartTBM900! - the simvimTBM900_Hotstart.dat file no longer required

* You now only have to put the data.cfg (RealSimControl Input/Output Config file) in the SimVimX plugin folder!
Setting up the monitors for X-Plane TBM
2-D Pop Up Panels:
Config File to edit for pop up window:
http://help.realsimgear.com/en/articles/2766758-realsimgear-setup-for-hotstart-tbm900

Assign key to LOAD COCKPIT BUILDER typically the “\” is a good option to choose.

This key will now force a reload of the configuration file we are going to modify below,
which avoids having to reload the aircraft. Leave X-Plane running during the remaining steps.

Using File Explorer, navigate to the root of the TBM900 folder, typically found in
<X-Plane Install Folder>\Aircraft\X-Aviation\TBM-900

Locate the file called “cockpit_builder.cfg” and copy it to <X-Plane Install Folder>\Output\TBM900

To hide the X-Plane 11 Menu bar on the G1000

http://help.realsimgear.com/en/articles/2777607-how-to-completely-hide-the-white-bar#:~:text=Simply%20drag%20the%20430%2F530,bar%20from%20the%20RealSimGear%
20display.
3D Printed Dual Rotary Encoders
Build Video:
https://youtu.be/mcThkkL4uKw

A 3D printed alternative to costly dual

encoders. Uses 2 15mm D shaft EC11
encoders(~1$ each).

Thingiverse Link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4373
531
3D printed Pan/Zoom switch
This 3D printed Pan/Zoom switch is a easy
replacement for the RKJXT1F42001 and does not
have the problem of the center push button being
activated on all directional inputs.

Build Video:
https://youtu.be/ez0A9r_Cwto
Thingiverse Link:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4222606
RKJXT1F42001 Pan/Zoom Switch and Issue (and fix)
The RKJXT1F42001 Pan/Zoom switch has an issue
that it automatically creates a “push” when the hat is
moved in any direction.

Hopefully, we can create a PCB to do this, but this

has been proven to work. It basically filters out the

press unless the hat is NOT being moved.

15” Center MFD
Link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4402752
Now printable on a 200x200mm bed (4 pieces)
Questions and Contact Info.
If you have any additional questions or suggestions, please join the Discord:

Discord Link: https://discord.gg/rc4M2zK

User File Uploads - MGBDave
10.4" Honeycomb
Mount - link to files

This Honeycomb
mount is a much
sturdier version for the
honeycomb yoke.
User File Uploads - MGBDave
Modified Encoder
Housing link to files

Modified rotary
encoder housing set
at 90 degrees offset.
User File Uploads - hkstsony
Pan/Zoom Spacer-
link to files

This Pan/Zoom mount

is used to mount the
Pan/Zoom PCB to the
G1000
 Builder Photos
Using 3d printed PCBs (A lot of wires because
every button needs a ground wire)

Builder: Magnus
Builder: FlightSimMaker
G1000 using Mobiflight(1 Arduino Mega 2560)

Printed in translucent PLA, painted white, then

black and letters sanded down till reaching the
white paint.
10.4” G1000

Builder: FlightSimMaker
MSFS2020 w/BBI32 boards from LeoBodnar
*Not fully functional yet due to FS2020

Builder: FlightSimMaker
Builder: MGBDave
Builder: MGBDave
 Builder: Bumper

● Alpha and Bravo

screwed to a shelf
board, with 2 clamps
installed
● Quick release bezels
to mount the G1000
components
● Back plates with
flush mounted
connectors
● USB hub and power
strip (not shown) for
reduced cables to
PC
● Wall mounted
bookshelf to store
whole solution when
not flying

Builder: bumper
Builder:
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder
If you are new to electronics, or micro controllers like the Arduino, then this section is for you. It won't go into great detail, but will give a small backgrounder, and a few tips to help you get
started. There are lots of great web resources you can also refer to to more detailed information - particularly on the Arduino platform, like: https://www.instructables.com/Intro-to-Arduino/

SAFETY:

First a few words on safety - you may be wondering how dangerous it is to be working with electronics that may be powered on while testing. Well everything on the arduino and the LCD
displays used on these projects runs at 12 volts or less (with the exception of the backlight inverter board for the display which you should not touch while in operation). So with that one
exception, you are in no danger of those voltages hurting you. You are far more likely to burn yourself with the soldering iron (which need to be treated with great respect, and never left
unattended). That said, it is important to take some precautions to avoid you electrocuting your electronics - mainly by static shock. Because these items run at such low voltages, they
are very susceptible to damage if you give them a static shock, which is actually thousands of volts (but at a very low current). To minimize that happening, work in a non carpeted area,
and try to ground yourself by touching something metal (fridge door, sink, etc) before handling any of the boards or components.

INPUTS:

Regardless of the interfacing software you choose to use, whether it be SimVim, or Mobi Flight, or something else - all your switches and encoders are inputs on the Arduino board.
Basically, the Arduino detects when any input is 'pulled' or connected to ground. That means that every button needs one side to connect to the assigned pin in your software, and the
other side of the switch to ground (GND). The boards made by FSM make this task easier by providing a single 'common gnd' for the button boards, so for example, even though the soft
button board has 12 buttons, there is only one ground connection. That one GND is already wired to one side of all 12 switches, which mean you only need 13 wires (12 buttons plus
GND) to connect to your Arduino.
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
INPUTS (continued):

Encoders work a little differently, and have two pins (A and B) plus a GND for the encoder portion, and a SW pin for the push button portion. An encoder is essentially a rotary switch and
the A and B output connects to GND and release every time you rotate it, with a slight difference in the timing between the A and B outputs. The GND wire is common to the encoder and
the switch. The Arduino is configured to have 2 input pins for the A and B connections and measures it the timing difference between the A and B inputs to determine if you are turning it
clockwise, or counter-clockwise. If your rotation works backwards, just reverse the A and B pins. The switch portion is wired the same as a button above.

WIRING:

The easiest way to wire things is with Dupont jumpers. These are available in different lengths, so if you get a few different lengths, like 10cm, 15cm, 20cm and 30cm, you can make a
fairly neat installation without having to make custom cables. These plug directly into the Arduino and the headers on your boards. These can be pulled out quite easily, so once you have
everything tested and working, a small amount of hot glue is a good way to lock them in place. If you need to remove something later, you can cut and peel away the hot glue as required.

SOLDERING:

Even if you opt to go with pre-made Dupont cables, you'll need to solder something at some point, such as the installing the rotary encoders and push buttons onto the printed circuit
boards. Like any skill, soldering takes a while to get good at, and you'll just keep getting better. Here are a few tips if you are just starting out:
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
SOLDERING (continued):

-When your iron heats up, you should 'tin' the tip. This means applying some solder to it, which cleans it, and helps it to conduct heat.
-Frequently wipe the tip briefly on either the soldering sponge, or in the brass cleaning wire (depending on what you have).
-Only use electronics solder - NOT plumbing solder. These have completely different formulations.
-Don't let the iron cook by keeping it heating for long period when not using it. This is bad for the tip, and especially on poorly temperature
regulated irons, they won't tin well after that.
-The iron must be attended when in use and cold before you put it away. They can easily start fires.
-Watch your fingers. 700 degrees plus burns quickly.
-Practice on scrap wire before working on your project.

Now the basics are covered, on to actual soldering use. A good rule to aim for when soldering is achieving a good mechanical connection before applying the heat. This will ensure the
joint is solid before you make it permanent with solder.
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
SOLDERING (continued):

Firstly, we will prepare wire to solder to something like a switch. Start be stripping, or removing about a 1/2" of insulation. Whenever you strip a wire, you should lightly twist the exposed
strands to keep them all together. Next, we tin it. With your iron hot, lightly hold it against the wire. A a couple of seconds, feed in a bit of solder with your other hand, and as that it
absorbed into the wire, slide the iron along the exposed wire so the solder lightly coats all the exposed wire. Avoid getting too close to the insulation, as that will cause 'wicking', which is
where solder is drawn under the insulation, and will make the wire stiff, in addition to causing the insulation to shrink back. Now the tinning is complete, we use flush cut snips to cut the
wire to the exposed length we need - usually around 1/8" to 1/4".
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
SOLDERING (continued):

The next step is to prep the other side of the connection - or the switch in this case. If the that device has pin with a hole in it, we can simply push our wire partly in, and bend it over to
hold it where we want it. In this case, we didn't tin the switch, because if we had, we would not have been able to put the wire through the opening. Now apply the iron to the switch pin for
a couple of seconds, then feed in a little bit of solder. Once you see the solder flow out smoothly, remove the heat. Avoid moving anything while it cools. You can blow on it lightly to speed
up the cooling process.

If the switch had not had a hole in the terminal to hold the wire, we
would have tinned the switch side as well. Then to join the two, we
would hold the wire in position, and add the iron until it flows.

Normally, in this case, additional solder is not needed but can be

added. This is harder to do, because you are making the mechanical
connection by holding things together, and it can be difficult to hold it
in position without moving it while it cools. When soldering, having a
good connection is very important. Solder is conductive, but not as
conductive as wire, so ideally we don’t want solder holding our wire
to the switch, but rather keeping it there.
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
SOLDERING (continued):

Our next example is a splice. If we want to join two wires together, we could do it as described above, but it would be quite hard to hold them together. A better approach is to strip both
wires as above - but not tin them. This is because tinned wire isn't very flexible, and we want to join these together. By crossing them at 90 degrees to start, we simply twist them together
as shown below. Now we have a good mechanical connection, we tin our wire, and the job is done. To avoid possible connection against other things, this kind of connection should be
protected with heat shrink tubing, which is flexible, and comes in varying diameters. An assorted pack is shown here:
https://www.amazon.ca/CAMWAY-800PCS-Heat-Shrink-Tubing/dp/B07RYRDLMX?ref_=Oct_s9_apbd_otopr_hd_bw_b3dF3Vb&pf_rd_r=ACS2096M93T9A32ZSJFR&pf_rd_p=7760d12c
-f799-54ca-beef-1f84a8776b55&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-10&pf_rd_t=BROWSE&pf_rd_i=3328264011
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
SOLDERING (continued):

Pick a piece of heat shrink large enough to cover the largest part of your connection (in diameter). This kind of tubing typically shrinks to half of its origInal size when heated. Be sure to
keep it well away from your joints until they are cool to prevent it from shrinking prematurely. Slide it over the finished cool joint, and shrink it with a heat gun, or hair dryer. Heat shrink can
also be put over switch terminals, or anywhere you want to protect connections. Remember that when your wire is connected at both ends, there won't be a way to put the heat shrink on,
so always slide it over your wire first, and keep it well away from your soldering until it has cooled, so it doesn't shrink in the wrong place.
A Quick Electronics Backgrounder (continued)
TROUBLESHOOTING:

So, if you've wired it all up, it should all work, right? But rarely will that be the case. Often, one or more inputs won't work on the first try, so here are some tips and tricks to find the
problem.

If you have a number of things that don't work, look for the commonality between then. For example, if none of the soft buttons work, it is far more likely the GND wire isn't connected
properly that all 12 button connections being bad. Remember that buttons can easily be tested by temporarily using a Dupont jumper wire directly between to Arduino input and GND. A
bad GND on an encoder board will also prevent the encoder push button from working, since the GND is common to the encoder and the switch.

Are you sure you have programmed the Arduino correctly, and are wired to the pin you program is looking for? It's very easy to mix up the analog and digital input pins. Also, in some
cases, some of the Arduino pins also have other functions - for example, pin 13 connects to the on board LED, and means it may not behave identically to other pins due to that resistor
and LED on the board.

Encoders are a bit harder to test than buttons, but you can always temporarily hook up a spare encoder directly to the Arduino to test. And a multimeter in ohms mode can be used to test
both encoders and buttons, as the resistance will become 0 briefly every click on an encoder from both the A and B pins to GND, and as long as the button is held down for switches.
Historical slide
4 5 6 12 11 10 G

G1000 Pin Identification V1 Boards 1 2 3 9 8 7 G

These were my first manufactured

circuit boards and the silk screens 1 7
are all on the same side. Thus you
should assemble them like shown. 1 2 3 4 5 6 G G
2 8
These have been replaced by V2/V3(blue) boards.
3 9

1 4 4 10
12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 G

2 5 5 11

3 6 6 12
Historical slide

GCU475v1 Ground Pad Repair

Bridge pin to exposed copper with solder.

These have been replaced by V3.

Historical slide

GCU475 MUX SHIELDv1 Ground Pad Repairs

Bridge the pin with
solder to the exposed
copper next to the
pin.

These have been

replaced by V2.