COASTAL PROCESSES

WAVES Tall breaker - high

Low wave in
High wave in proportion to length
proportion to length
Strong swash

Weak backwash
Weak
swash

Strong backwash

DESTRUCTIVE CONSTRUCTIVE
• Large wave height with short wave length • Flat & low in height with long wave length.
• Tall breakers have a high downward force and a strong backwash • Strong swash deposits material on the beach, giving a gentle profile
• Strong downward energy erodes beach material & cliffs • Created by storms far out to sea making a large swell which eventually
• Strong backwash results in narrow beach profiles reaches the coast
• Created in storm conditions when wind is powerful • Wave energy disperses over wide area resulting in a weak backwash
• Occur when wave energy is high & wave has travelled far • Lower wave frequency (break less often)

COASTAL EROSION
HYDRAULIC ACTION

Wave pounding

Wave-cut notch

AT T R I T I O N

ABRASION

SOLUTION Wave-cut platform

Erosion is the wearing away of the land by the sea. Destructive waves erode the coast in a number of different processes:
H Y D R A U L I C A C T I O N - When waves hit a cliff, air is compressed into AT T R I T I O N - Waves smash rocks and pebbles on the shore into each other,
cracks. When the wave breaks, the air rushes out of the gap causing erosion. & they break and become smaller & smoother.
A B R A S I O N - Bits of rock & sand in waves grind down cliff surfaces like S O L U T I O N - Acids contained in sea water will dissolve some types of rock
sandpaper. such as chalk or limestone.

COASTAL TRANSPORTATION SOL UTI ON

S U S P E NS IO N

T RACT IO N SAL TATI ON

Transportation is the movement of material in the sea and along the coast by waves and tidal currents
T R A C T I O N - large material eg pebbles & larger sediment are rolled along S U S P E N S I O N - beach material eg silts & clays (which can make the water
the sea bed cloudy) is suspended and carried by the waves
S A L TAT I O N - beach material eg small pieces of shingle or large sand grain S O L U T I O N - minerals are dissolved and carried by the water, the load is
is bounced along the sea bed not visible & can come from cliffs

LONGSHORE DRIFT B D F

C G
Sources: www.bbc.co.uk/schools/gcsebitesize

Waves approach Wave direction determined by prevailing wind direction

A-B: The prevailing wind causes waves to approach the coast at an angle. The swash carries the sand particle
or pebble up the beach at the same angle.
B-C: Backwash and gravity carry the particle back down the beach.
The process is repeated and the particle is carried along the coastline in a zig-zag motion and would
eventually be deposited when the waves lose energy - this is called longshore drift.