TILE GUIDE

Index

01 What Are Tiles? 07 Cutting Tiles.

Ceramic Vs. Porcelain How To Cut Tiles: 3 Tools & When To Use Them
A Quick Comparison Using A Manual Tile Cutter
Construction With A Tile Scribe
Cost With An Electric Cutter
Density & Durability
What Tiles Do I Have? How To Tell The Difference 08 Laying Tiles.
Ceramic Or Porcelain Tiles For… How To Lay Your Floor And Wall Tiles
Affixing Floor Tiles
02 RAK Glossary. Affixing Wall Tiles
Typology
Edge 09 Grouting & Finishing.
Surface Structure How To Grout Tiles
Finish Finishing Floor Tiles
Surface Look
Colour Variation 10 How To Drill Through Tiles
How To Drill Through Ceramic Tile
03 Choosing The Right Tile. How To Drill Though Porcelain Tile
How To Choose Tiles
11 Looking After Your Tiles.
04 Tiling Checklist & Tile Safety. Tile Maintenance And Cleaning
Tiling Checklist: 22 Items To Tile Safely 5 Tips For Maintaining And Cleaning Your New Tiles:
Safety Equipment Replacing Damaged Tiles
Sizes
12 Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS).
05 Tile Preparation What Is Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS) Made Of?
Measure, Measure And Measure Again Make A Design Statement With Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)
Prepare The Tiling Surface The Pros of Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)
Make A Tile Staff Application of Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)
Installation Options
06 Planning Your Tile Layout. The Bottom Line...
Laying Out Your Floor Tiles
Laying Out Your Wall Tiles

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01.
What are tiles?

A tile is a manufactured piece of hard-wearing material such as ceramic, stone, metal, Porcelain Vs Ceramic Tiles
or even glass, generally used for covering roofs, floors, walls, showers, or other objects
Ceramic Porcelain
such as tabletops. Derived from a French word tuile -meaning a roof tile composed of
Made with red, brown or white clay Made with white clay, sand and feldspar
fired clay, tiles are used to form wall and floor coverings, and can range from simple Construction (how are they
Softer and less dense Fired at a higher temperature
square tiles to complex mosaics. Tiles are most often made of ceramic, typically glazed made)
Harder and more dense
for internal uses and unglazed for roofing, but other materials such as glass, cork, Easier to use Absorbs less water.
concrete and stone are also used. Pros Available in more up to date and More hard-wearing.
intricate designs.
Can be prone to cracking in cold More brittle.
Ceramic Vs. Porcelain Cons weather. Only available in basic or very simple
designs.
Walls and floors. Floors.
Although they belong to the same family, porcelain and ceramic tiles are more like Home interiors. Use on walls depending on weight
cousins than twins. Some people will use the terms ‘porcelain’ and ‘ceramic’ tiles Commercial interior walls. Commercial properties – hotels, offic-
interchangeably, but there are a few differences. This means one might be a little more Low foot traffic areas es, retail outlets.
Best used for
advantageous for your project. Just something to keep in mind. Inside. Areas with very high moisture levels
Depending on how you plan to use your space, porcelain or ceramic tiles may suit you such as wet rooms.
High foot traffic areas.
better. Here’s how they differ and where they’re best used. Outside.
Price Affordable Use on walls depending on weight
A Quick Comparison Ease of cutting
Easy to cut and shape. Commercial properties – hotels, offic-
es, retail outlets.
Interior / Exterior use Interior only Areas with very high moisture levels
The main differences between a porcelain and ceramic tile are the strength and the such as wet rooms.
durability much more higher in porcelain. Performances of porcelain are definitely far
better than ceramics. The indicator used to classify the material is the rate of water DENSITY & DURABILITY
absorption. Porcelain tiles absorb less than 0.5% of water whilst ceramic and other
non-porcelain tiles will absorb more. This is down to the stuff used to make porcelain
Porcelain tiles are denser than ceramic, and therefore less porous. Meaning they’re
tiles. The clay is denser and so less porous. It effects how the tiles behave, and what
harder, therefore more durable and absorb less water. This makes them more suited to
they’re best used for.
high footfall areas which will see heavy use. This doesn’t mean that ceramic is not as
good however! As it’s less dense, it’s also less brittle and it’s an easier to work with. To
Construction you DIYers out there, make life a little easier for yourself and use ceramic.

How are ceramic tiles made? PEI Ratings

Ceramic tiles are made using natural red,
brown or white clay. Firstly the clay is fired The Porcelain Enamel Institute rating (PEI rating) is a quick and easy way to see which
at a high temperature to reduce the water tile is suitable in your home depending on how many times the area you are tiling is
content, the glaze followed by the pattern walked over.
is then applied. Voila, then you have your Tiles are graded from 0-5 depending on the hardness of the tile:
finished your product. PEI 0 - No foot traffic (wall tiles)
PEI 1 - Very light traffic (e.g. bathroom)
How are porcelain tiles made? PEI 2 - Light traffic (e.g. bathroom and bedroom)
Porcelain tiles are made using very specific PEI 3 - Light to moderate traffic (suitable for most domestic floors)
clay, with finely-ground sand and feldspar PEI 4 - Moderate to heavy traffic (suitable for domestic floors and commercial uses)
added to the mixture. The tiles are fired at a PEI 5 - Heavy traffic (suitable for all domestic and commercial uses with heavy footfall)
higher temperature than ceramic, this helps Most ceramic floor tiles are graded between 3 and 4. Porcelain tiles tend to have a
to make porcelain tiles super hardwearing. rating between 3 and 5.

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01.
What are tiles?

Deep Abrasion Test CERAMIC OR PORCELAIN TILES FOR…

For materials to be used in heavy traffic
The Shower
areas, the test to be taken as reference is the
deep abrasion test.
As porcelain is nearly waterproof, porcelain tiles are the best material to use when
In this test the surface of the material is
installing a wet room due to the levels of moisture.
scratched and removed and trough a visual
Ceramic is perfect to use all over in a standard bathroom especially with the wide choice
evaluation the lab check the visibility of the
of designs available including some with anti-slip properties.
treated area comparing it with the around
surface. If isn’t visible any strong difference
A tight budget
means that the material is suitable for heavy
traffic areas. Full body products are the one
If you’re on a tight budget, ceramic tiles are likely to be the best solution. The price will
who can normally pass this test .
be kinder on your bank account, and cheaper tiles don’t have to mean compromising on
style. Ceramic tiles are available in a wide range of patterns and styles to suit any look.
Anti slip test
There’s something out there for everyone.
There are different tests made in order to define the slip resistance of the materials,
in order to define the suitable products for areas frequently wet (pool areas, outdoor
High foot traffic
areas, spa…)
The durability of porcelain tiles make them perfect for high traffic areas as they’re
We’ll mention some of them:
resistant to scratches and scuffs. Whether in an area of the home that sees high
footfall, such as the hallway or kitchen, or in a commercial space, porcelain is the most
R evaluation rate, normally used for materials
hardwearing.
where the roughness is what is providing the
anti slip characteristics.
However, compared to other flooring options such as laminate or carpet, ceramic tiles
R value fro 11 and above are considered anti
still represent a durable and hard-wearing choice.
slip materials.
A DIY project
Ramp test evaluation, which is a specific
test foe material with good anti-slip
Porcelain tiles are made using very specific clay, with finely-ground sand and feldspar
performances and smooth surfaces. Is the
added to the mixture. The tiles are fired at a higher temperature than ceramic, this
test used to classify our barefoot products.
helps to make porcelain tiles super hardwearing.

Your patio or outdoor space

WHAT TILES DO I HAVE? HOW TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE
Porcelain’s level of water resistance means it’s perfectly placed to weather everything
that nature has to throw at your new patio. In cold weather, ceramic may crack, meaning
The quickest and easiest way to tell whether you have porcelain or ceramic tiles is to check
you’ll be needing a replacement floor much sooner than you’d like. In this case porcelain
the box or the manufacturer’s website. That simple, right? will offer you peace of mind.

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02.
RAK Glossary

The following guide lines can be applied to the majority of our standard products. We Ceramic is divided in:
could anyway find some exception due to specific conditions or requirements.
These Icons are very important because it is the standard language used by RAK Ceramic Red Body: (Group BIII – Ceramic tiles with water absorption E > 10 %)
Ceramics on classifying and describing their products. Economic products produced with most part of local raw materials for the body formula.
The same icons are used on the panels and they give immediately all the info we need
to know about the products we are presenting to a customer. Ceramic White Body: (Group BIII – Ceramic tiles with water absorption E > 10 %)
We don’t have anymore many products with this body, specifically recommended for
Typology wall tile installations.

Gres White Body: (Group BIb – Ceramic tiles with water absorption 0.5 % < E £ 3 %)
We do have to main families of products: Porcelain and Ceramics
This body is actually used in some brick and small size collections. These products are
suitable for wall tile installation as well as floor tile.
The international way to classify them is the water absorption test.
As lower the water absorption is, as lower the porosity is, and higher the strength is,
which means the Porcelain tiles are more resistant and durable then Ceramic tiles.
Porcelain tiles have better performances than Ceramic tiles thanks to better raw Edge
materials used for the body composition and glaze as well, and different production
conditions with higher firing temperatures. These points are drastically increasing the Rectified: Tiles that are cut/ground on all four sides after the firing stage to maintain
production cost and clearly the selling price of GP compared to Ceramics. uniformity on the length, width, straightness of sides and rectangularity/squareness.

Classification of dry-pressed ceramic tiles according to their water absorption ‘E’ Straight: Edges are made and defined during the pressing and firing phase, and no any
additional treatment is applied. Straightness of sides and rectangularity/squareness
Group BIa – Ceramic tiles with water absorption E £ 0.5 % isn’t as much accurate as in rectified products.
Group BIb – Ceramic tiles with water absorption 0.5 % < E £ 3 %
Group BIIa – Ceramic tiles with water absorption 3 % < E £ 6 % Surface Structure
Group BIIb – Ceramic tiles with water absorption 6 % < E £ 10 %
Group BIII – Ceramic tiles with water absorption E > 10 %
These icons describes the relief effect of the tiles, related to the punch used during the
production. We might have some product where the punch is classified as smooth but
Porcelain: (Group BIa – Ceramic tiles with water absorption E £ 0.5 %) is divided in:
we can feel some relief created by additional application as granules.
Porcelain tiles, which means glazed products, where design, colour and glaze are
Smooth: Flat punch has been used for the production which means flat surface of the
applied at the glazing line. Glaze is made from silica and other ceramic materials which
tile. No relief effects are felt touching the surface.
are going to be fused to the body of the tiles during firing.
Light Structure: A structured punch has been used for the production, providing the
Full Body Porcelain Tiles, where the colour and the movement we can see on the
relief effects we can find in the most part of stone or concrete products in PT and some
top of the surface are made from coloured atomized powders. We can find the same
in RB as well. This effect is normally clearly visible catching a light reflection on the
movements and colours in the whole body of the tile. We can remove layer of material
surface of the tiles.
from the surface and will find the same colour anyway. This is the reason why Full body
tile are recommended for heavy traffic areas, where the abrasion could really remove
Heavy Structure: A structured punch has been used for the production, providing the
part of the surface.
relief effects we can find in the most part of RB decors or some PT products as Surface
Double charge and products named Martinelli are part of full body porcelain tile.
R11 with line.

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02.
RAK Glossary

Finish Surface Look

These Icons describes the kind of treatment applied or not, on the surface of the tile, This description is related only to the look of the surface, keeping always in mind that
after firing, before the end of the full production flow. we might have different surface look combined with the same finish.
Is very important to keep in mind that the same Finish might have different surface
look. Finish and Surface Look are two different things, and is so important to spend time to
learn this point, and consider that this description works for both Porcelain and Ceramic.
Natural: There’s no treatment applied on the surface after firing. To better understand how surface look works combined to the different finishes, find
below this Scheme to define at lease 98% of our products. Some exception could be
Lappato: Soft and irregular treatment of the surface, creating normally, but not always, founded.
contrasts between matt and glossy areas. PT and FB can both have lappato finish. On Natural Lapatto Full Lappato Polished Honed
the FB tiles this treatment might be defined as Semi Polished, but this name is no longer
Matt yes yes - - -
used in our catalogues, and even from a technical point of view Lappato definition is
Satin yes - - - yes
more accurate.
This light treatment is made after firing, with a long sequence of abrasive tools which Glossy yes yes yes yes -
are working on the surface of the tile without removing any material from the top of High Glossy yes - yes yes -
the tiles.

Full lappato: 100% uniform treatment on the surface of glazed products, creating
Colour Variation
normally a glossy uniform surface look. Normally it can be done only on PT.
This light treatment is made after firing, with a long sequence of abrasive tools which These icons define the shade variation inside each box, and it is a very important
are working on the surface of the tile without removing any material from the top of information to be transferred to the customers to avoid any future complains.
the tiles. The grade starts from a plain and uniform tonality up to a possible very strong
stonalization.
Polished: Very aggressive treatment to obtain a prefect flatness of the complete
surface. This is a specific treatment for FB products obtained by a first phase were a This variation should not be confused with the number of patterns used in the new
thin layer of material is removed to create the flatness which will be the base for the products, which normally are:
second part of the treatment to define the final Surface Look.
The reason why it can be done only on FB tiles is because these are the only products • 12 faces of 60x120
were we can remove a layer find below the same colours and movements on the body • 24 faces of 60x120
of the tiles. Any PT could handle this treatment. • 5 faces for big slab sizes
• 1 for counter top
Honed: 100% uniform treatment on the surface of PT and FB products, to obtain
normally a Satin or matt Surface Look. This light treatment is made after firing, with Open book effect isn’t counted in this scheme
a long sequence of abrasive tools which are working on the surface of the tile without
removing any material from the top of the tiles. Indication for use and Suggested Application define the type of ambience’s and where
to use each single material.
All these information are showed in the catalogues as well as in the panels which
means that they are always available when we are presenting the products.

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 Icons

TYPOLOGY INDICATIONS FOR USE

PORCELAIN FULL BODY GRES WHITE BODY WALL TILES FLOOR TILES
PT TILES FB PORCELAIN TILES
TILES

EDGE SURFACE LOOK

RECTIFIED STRAIGHT MATT SATIN GLOSSY HIGH
GLOSSY

Natural looking surface. Satin-like surface look. The resulting surface The final appearance of the
Smooth and velvety to the has a medium degree of surface is highly reflective,
touch. reflection. almost mirror-like.

SURFACE STRUCTURE COLOUR VARIATIONS

SMOOTH LIGHT HEAVY V1 EVEN V2 LIGHT V3 MEDIUM V4 STRONG
STRUCTURE STRUCTURE

Tiles with an even and Tiles with an uneven, Tiles with a highly irregular The least amount of shade Light to moderate shade Medium to high shade Very high shade variation
regular surface, free from irregular surface, with a surface. variation attainable. variation within each carton. variation within each carton. within each carton.
perceptible projections, structure perceptible to
lumps, or indentations. the eye and touch.

FINISH SUGGESTED APPLICATIONS

NATURAL LAPPATO FULL POLISHED DOMESTIC LIGHT INDUSTRIAL OUTDOOR
LAPPATO PURPOSE COMMERCIAL TRAFFIC AREA
TRAFFIC AREA

Pressed tiles without further Semi polished/honed A ceramic lapping process Pressed tiles with a smooth Residential areas, hotel Indoor public areas subject Indoor public areas subject Outdoor public
work after firing. products achieved by performed with the finest pad, subjected to a strong rooms, bathrooms. to medium pedestrian traffic to heavy pedestrian traffic environments subject to
polishing the tile’s surface abrasive grain, aimed at mechanical processing, such as restaurants, bars, such as airports, railway medium pedestrian traffic
with an abrasive wheel, not removing the smallest by removing a significant offices, shops, hotel public and underground stations, such as outdoor terraces,
long enough to attain the imperfections and glaze. amount of material after areas, convention rooms. shopping malls, schools, stairs, corridors, raised
luster of a typical polished firing, making the surface museums and libraries, paving, private garden,
tile. bright. hospitals, banks and public swimming pool and wellness
offices, car showrooms, areas. Always check the
sport centers, hotel lobbies. slipperiness characteristics
HONED HEAVY FACADE according to the intended
COMMERCIAL environment, in conformity
TRAFFIC AREA with applicable regulations
A silky smooth surface, with Industrial floors such as Ventilated façade, low and or laws.
a satin look, that is soft to warehouses, deposits, high rise.
the touch and pleasant to factories.
walk onto.

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03.
Choosing The Right Tile.

When it comes to choosing tiles, there a few questions to ask, the main one being: what But if you said you like a rustic style but also like to make a statement we might go
best suits you and your family’s needs? with this one:

So for someone tiling a hallway who likes to make a style statement we might
How To Choose Tiles recommend a tile from our Feature Floor’s collection.

Consider the following: Or sometimes you may like to make a statement but have done that on your walls so
would go with something more subtle on the floor, like a wood effect tile:
• What room are we doing?
• Do we want wall or floor tiles or both? It’s about finding what is right for you. Just because you are choosing a tile and ultimately
• If both, do we want them to match or complement? you might be shopping for tiles because you want a hard wearing floor covering or you
• Do we need the floor tiles to be hardwearing or are we more likely to be walking want a waterproof area in your bathroom, you shouldn’t lose sight of who you are and
on them in slippers or barefoot? what you like.
• Do we have a pet to consider? Or children?
It is possible to achieve the functional whilst maintaining the inspirational and
These answers will direct you to the type of tile you need. ultimately have a home that you love and deserve.

Next you should start looking for inspiration! Our trend edits and real homes features So, key things to remember
are great places to pick-up fresh ideas for you project.
If you think about the look and feel of the rest of your home, what type of look do you • Stick to what you like, don’t be led down the ‘I like that but I’m not going to use
tend to veer towards? it because I might go off it’ path
• In the case of tiles, size really doesn’t matter. If you want to use a large tile in a
We find there are five main looks people tend to choose: small bathroom do it – the less grout lines the better – this will actually make
your room look bigger. Equally, if you want to use a small mosaic tile do it, or
• Clean, Crisp & Contemporary even mix sizes. It’s your home, no one else’s.
• Rustic & Old Style • Some tiles are only suitable for walls and this completely depends on the
• Simple Neutral Tones thickness and durability, however, unless it’s enormous, there is no reason
• Making a Style Statement whatsoever that you can’t use a floor tile on a wall if you want to do that.
• A Complete Mixture Increasingly a lot of tiles are multi-use meaning that they can be used on both
walls and floors for a more seamless effect.

Then, what sorts of colours do you tend to use?

• Lots Of Colour
• Subtle Colours
• Shades Of Grey
• Shades Of Beige
• White
• Black
• Mainly Neutral With A Dash Of Colour

By answering these two simple questions, we are able to paint a picture of the kind of
look you might like. For instance, if you have told us you are tiling a kitchen wall, you like
a rustic style and you like subtle colours we could recommend this:

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04.
Tiling Checklist & Tile Safety.

Tiling Checklist: 22 Items To Tile Safely Safety Equipment

So you’ve decided to do some tiling! Now you’ve got your tools in order, you’ll want to gather the correct protective gear.

Before you get started, it’s important to make sure you have all the equipment you’ll These four items are essential to have before starting any tiling project:
need to hand.
We’ve put together this tool & safety checklist to get you started! Eye protection

Manual Tile Cutter: A very useful tool that can cut most tiles. On average they are around 300mm long. Always wear impact goggles, even a tiny fragment of tile can cause an injury or serious
Electric Tile Cutter: Has the ability to cut up to 25mm thick tiles with a choice of blades which discomfort. A pair of goggles will prevent anything from being deflected into your eyes,
varies depending on your tiles, make sure you have the correct one though! they’re much cheaper than eye patches and contrary to popular belief, nobody suits the
Notched Trowel: This tool is used to spread and comb the adhesive you will be using to affix pirate look!
the tiles to a surface.
Tape Measure: A basic, no frills tape measure will do the trick here! No need to get fancy, Hand Protection
they all measure the same.
Bucket Trowel: A wide-bladed tool you’ll need for scooping adhesive from a mixing bucket. Gloves are essential. Tile fragments can be really sharp, even a small one can cause
Spirit Level: An instrument designed to indicate whether a surface is horizontal (level) or an injury. At a push even a pair of household rubber gloves will help to prevent this,
vertical (plumb). It is essential that you have a good quality spirit level. although we would recommend investing in a good pair.
Set Square: Used for setting out and laying tiles on the square.
Bucket Trowel: A wide-bladed tool you’ll need for scooping adhesive from a mixing bucket. Ear Protection
Tile Scribe: A sharp blade for cutting through the glaze of a tile.
When using an electric tile cutter things can get especially loud. Make sure you wear ear
Caulking Gun: A tool that holds a tube or cartridge filled with silicone or latex, used for
defenders, it might not seem it at the time, but prolonged exposure to this level of noise
sealing gaps and bonding tiles.
can cause lasting damage to your hearing.
Tile Nippers: Special pliers that cut away little sections of ceramic tile to create small,
irregular or curved cuts
Voltage Tester ‘Life Saver’
Sponge: For cleaning away excess grout.
Grout Float: For spreading grout into the joints between the tiles.
They’re called a life saver for a reason, do not under any circumstances start work
Grout Profiler: Used to smooth and finish cement based grout joints after washing off. around electrical outlets or sockets without one. Firstly, test it on a wire that you know
Length of timber: Used to make a tile staff. This will help to set out and position tiles when is live, and then one you presume is dead. Simply press the button and it will beep if it’s
affixing to walls and floors. close to a live wire, otherwise you should be safe. They only cost a few pounds, every
Tile spacers: Plastic pieces used to evenly space tiles. household should have one. So, key things to remember
Mixing bucket: Standard bucket for mixing adhesive.
Tile file/ Rubbing stone: For smoothing down edges after cutting a tile.
• Stick to what you like, don’t be led down the ‘I like that but I’m not going to use
it because I might go off it’ path
Hammer: For tapping nails into the wall to support the timber baton.
• In the case of tiles, size really doesn’t matter. If you want to use a large tile in a
small bathroom do it – the less grout lines the better – this will actually make
your room look bigger. Equally, if you want to use a small mosaic tile do it, or
even mix sizes. It’s your home, no one else’s.
• Some tiles are only suitable for walls and this completely depends on the
thickness and durability, however, unless it’s enormous, there is no reason
whatsoever that you can’t use a floor tile on a wall if you want to do that.
Increasingly a lot of tiles are multi-use meaning that they can be used on both
walls and floors for a more seamless effect.

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05.
Tile Preparation.

Before you get started with your project, there’s three things you should do to prepare.
Prime:
Depending on the adhesive, priming the surface might be required, always check
Measure, Measure And Measure Again before starting.
Accurate measurements of your tiling area are important to make sure you order the If you think about the look and feel of the rest of your home, what type of look do
correct amount of tiles - not too many, not too few. you tend to veer towards?

• Measure the height and width Waterproof: In wet areas the use of a waterproofing product is recommended, follow
of the area you are going to tile the manufacturer’s recommendation for application.
with a tape measure, times the
two sizes together and this is Make A Tile Staff
the number of square metres
you will need to order. Finally, we need to make a tile staff, this length of timber will help you to gauge how
• For irregular sized rooms, your tiles will fall around obstacles such as windows and doors. Here’s how to make
divide the area up into different one:
segments and work the areas
out individually, add the • Lay your length of timber on a flat
resulting numbers together to surface
calculate your square metre • Place a tile on the length of timber
requirements. flush with the timbers edge
• Measure any doors, windows or obstructions and take the size away from the • Mark the timber at the end of the tile
total. with a pencil
• Allow for an extra 5-10% to account for any breakages and cuts (for larger tiles • Ensure that the marks are square
you may need to account for more). • Position a spacer at the edge of the
tile and place a second tile against
that, again mark the timber
Prepare The Tiling Surface • Repeat this process until you reach
The tiling surface needs to be prepared before you can start affixing tiles, ensure you the end of the timber
follow each of these steps: • Cut off any excess timber

Clean: You now have a tile staff, which will come in handy when working around tricky areas.
Use a damp cloth to remove surface contaminates. You can use a suitable degreasing
agent, however you should always wash down after with clean water.

Dry:
Ensure the background and surface is fully dry.

Sound/ solid:
Cut away any loose areas on the surface to ensure a stable base when affixing tiles.

Flat:
Ensure the surface is flat with no more than 3mm in variation over a 2 metre edge.
On floors, the use of a levelling compound may be recommended.

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06.
Planning Your Tile Layout.

Planning your project’s tile layout is really important to ensure you get the look you set Laying Out Your Wall Tiles
out to achieve.
Similarly to laying out a floor, you must first find the centre point of the wall you want
There’s nothing worse than starting to set your tiles in place with adhesive to realise to tile and then work out towards the edges.
that one tile’s been misplaced.
Find the centre of the wall:
Here we outline a few tips on how to layout tiles for your walls and floors. Find the centre of your window or wall
and mark a pencil line.
Laying Out Your Floor Tiles
Measure from the middle:
When laying out your floor tiles, our main aim is to make sure the centre of the floor is Using your tile staff, measure from the
positioned correctly first. From there we extend the tiling pattern towards the edges halfway point or centre of the window up
of the room. and down so that you can see where each
tile will fall.

Mark your halfway points: Expert tip: Where the bottom tile is less
With chalk or a pencil measure a centre mark in between opposite walls and draw a than half a tile, rearrange slightly by
straight line down. raising the tile staff to half a tile and re-
Expert tip: Don’t assume that the opposite walls are equal in size, a lot of rooms mark once you’re happy.
aren’t perfectly square!
Set your starting point from the bottom:
Find the middle of your centre line: On the mark near the floor, use your
Repeat this again by measuring the centre spirit level to draw a straight line across the wall. Get a piece of timber baton and
of the line you draw lightly hammer it into the wall, but not fully as you will have to take it out later. Use
this piece of timber as your starting point to tile up from.
Draw a new, perpendicular line:
Lay the square onto the centre line and Finishing up
centre mark and draw a line 90° to the Mark out again with the tile staff, this time horizontally and hammer in another
first line. piece of timber up the wall. This should make a right angle with the timber pieces.
Alternatively you can work with a pencil line.
Start laying our your floor tiles
Starting from the middle point, dry lay a
row of tiles in both directions up to the
wall. Make sure you include 3mm tile
spacers so that the joints are even. You can
also use your tile staff to work out where
the tiles will fall.

Expert Tip: If there is only a thin piece of tile left at the wall, you can rearrange the
centre tile so there is a larger section of tile. Leave about half a tile or more as it can
be difficult to fit smaller sections of tile. You may need to re-mark your lines on the
floor.

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07.
Cutting Tiles.

HOW TO CUT TILES: 3 TOOLS & WHEN TO USE THEM With a Tile Scribe
Knowing how to cut tiles is an important skill for any DIY project. During your tiling Best for: Cutting thinner tiles
project, you will come across the need to cut some tiles to size.
Whether you’re cutting them to fit around certain obstacles whether you need trim Measure
tiles around the edge, here are three tools you’ll need to master for different tiles and Measure where the tiles needs to be cut using a pencil and a metal ruler, draw a
situations. straight line across the tile.

Expert Tip: Measure twice, cut once. Remember, you can’t ‘uncut’ a tile! Score the cut line
Hold the metal ruler along the line to ensure a straight cut. Holding at a 45° angle,
use the tile scribe against the side of the ruler and cut across the glaze.
Using a Manual Tile Cutter
Break the tile cleanly
Best for: Straight cuts to your tiles.
Use a long, thin object underneath the scored tile, such as a pencil and apply pressure
to both ends of the tile. It should break cleanly into two pieces.
Measure
Measure where the tile needs to be cut. To do this place a tile on the last full tile and
Check the edges
mark with a pencil where the overlap is, this is where you need to cut.
If the cut isn’t clean and the edges are slightly rough, use a file to smooth the edges.
Note: Make sure you leave enough room for the grout joint and movement joint on
corners and perimeters. Movement joints must not be grouted, the use of sealant is
recommended!
With an Electric Cutter
Best for: Cutting right angles, curved edges and on thicker tiles such as porcelain and
Place the tile in the cutter natural stone.
Place the tile in the manual tile cutter, square it up to the plate and get the cutter
and pencil mark in line. Setup the Electric Cutter
Firstly, make sure the electric cutter has water in the tray to prevent the blade from
Score the tile overheating, this will also help to reduce the dust produced whilst cutting.
Press down firmly on the handle of the cutter and push forward across the tile to
score a line. Mark out lines for curved edges
When cutting curved edges, mark with a pencil the area which needs to be cut and
Apply a bit of pressure mark several lines up to the curved marking. This is because you cannot turn the tile
Press and apply pressure on both sides of the tile and it will snap into two pieces. during the cutting process.
Note: some cutters will have an all-in-one breaker built in. Just put the clamp part on Cut into the lines
the tile and push down on the handle to snap the tile. Use the electric cutter to cut each of the lines up to the point of the curved line, it should look
like a comb when you’re finished.
Check the edges
Mark around the curve with a tile scribe
If the cut isn’t clean and the edges are slightly rough, use a file or rubbing stone to
Draw around the curved mark with your tile scribe to score and cut into the glaze.
smooth the edges.
Nip away at the remaining unwanted area
Use tile nippers to cut small pieces Use your tile nipper to break away small pieces at a time, up to the curve and then file down
For smaller or curved pieces use tile nippers to cut small pieces off to achieve the until smooth..
correct size or shape required.

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08.
Laying Tiles.

HOW TO LAY YOUR FLOOR AND WALL TILES Note: Larger tiles may require a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tile as well
Check it with a spirit level
Once you’ve planned your layout and the starting point of the first tile, it’s time to fix Put the spirit level on the tile both ways to ensure it is even and flat. Insert a tile
them in place with tile adhesive. spacer in between each tile.

Expert tip: Always ensure that the correct adhesive is used with the correct tile type/ Clean up as you go along
size and surface. Contact the adhesive manufacturer if you’re unsure, to find out the Wash down the surface of the tile and clean the joint as you go along.
correct product required.
Affixing Wall Tiles
Affixing Floor Tiles
Mix your tile adhesive
Plan your route and exit Mix the tile adhesive in a mixing bucket as per the instructions on the bag. Depending
Make sure you plan ahead so that you are able to exit the room once you’re finished on the type/size of your tiles and the background, the use of ready-mix tile adhesive
without stepping on any tiles as they won’t have set. or cement based powder adhesive may be recommended.

If it is essential that you can access the room then you can tile half the space at a Start spreading the adhesive
time so that you are still able to use it. Starting from above the timber baton and centre line, start to spread the adhesive
on the wall.
Mix your tile adhesive
Mix the recommended tile adhesive in a mixing bucket as per the instructions on the Keep it even
bag. Depending upon the location and background, a flexible water-resistant cement Hold your notched trowel (minimum 6mm notched size) at a 45° angle and drag it
based adhesive might be used. across the wall spreading evenly. Ensure that all notches are running in the same
direction.
Start spreading the adhesive
Working from your set out lines and/or straight edge spread the adhesive evenly on Expert tip: Only cover a small area at a time
the floor. (approx 1 square metre) as the adhesive will
begin to dry on the surface.
Keep it even
Hold your notched trowel (minimum 8 - Place your tiles
10mm notched size) at a 45° angle and Place the tile on the bed of adhesive, resting
drag across the floor spreading evenly and on top of the timber baton and set out lines.
ensuring that the notches are in the same
direction. Apply pressure bond the tile and adhesive
Once the tile is lined up, twist and slide it into
Note: Only cover a small area at a time place to ensure the adhesive sticks properly.
(approx 1 square metre) as the adhesive will
begin to dry on the surface. Insert a tile spacer
Insert a tile spacer in between each tile to
Place your tiles ensure consistency.
Place the tile on the bed of adhesive, press
down and twist to ensure the adhesive sticks Clean up as you go along
properly. Wash down the surface and clean the joint as you go along to remove any excess
adhesive.

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09.
Grouting & Finishing.

How To Grout Tiles Finishing Floor Tiles

Once the tiles have been laid and left to set, it’s time to start grouting! Always ensure It may be necessary to waterproof your tiles in certain places, it’s recommended this is
that you have the correct grout for your tile type and background material, if you’re done using silicone. Follow these steps to finish your project off:
unsure then contact the grout manufacturer.

• Cut the end of the silicone cartridge slightly wider than the sealant gap and
place it into the caulking gun.
• Hold the tip at a 45° angle and apply into the corners, squeezing the caulking
gun and working from one end to the other whilst maintaining an even and
consistent amount of silicone.
• After application, use a sealant shaper or a wet soapy finger (wear a rubber
glove) to take off any silicone and smooth out the edges.

• Make sure you leave enough time for you tiles to fully set, this varies depending
on the adhesive, so check the setting times on the adhesive bag before getting
started.
• Mix water and grout powder in a mixing bucket as instructed on the packaging.
Be careful not to make too much as it will harden quickly and become unusable.
• (Note: when mixing grout for walls, make the grout slightly thicker as it will run
down the walls otherwise)
• Place some grout on the tiles, hold the grout float at a 45° angle and apply the
grout ensuring all of the joints are filled.
• Once all of the joints between the tiles are grouted, leave it to dry for 10 - 15
minutes then wipe down the tile surface with a damp sponge. Be careful not to
put too much pressure on the grout joints.
• (Note: tiles may need a second wash down to fully rid them of grout residue)
• Leave the tiles for another 60 minutes (approximately) to let the grout harden a
little more. Hold your grout profiler at a 45° angle and drag it across to take off
any excess grout and smooth it off.
• Using a clean cloth, polish down the tiles until completely clean.

LATICRETE IS A RECOMMENDED PARTNER OF RAK CERAMICS

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10. .11
How To Drill Through Tiles Looking After Your Tiles

Sometimes you may find you need to drill holes in your tiles to install additional fixtures Tile Maintenance And Cleaning
and fittings. If done incorrectly you risk damaging your tiles but with the right tools and
tactics you can successfully drill through your tiles without cracking them. After all the effort involved with your tiling project, you’ll want to make sure they are
well maintained and well cared for.
How To Drill Through Ceramic Tile
5 Tips For Maintaining And Cleaning Your New Tiles:
To drill a hole in ceramic tiles you can use a carbine and steel combination drill bit. Start
by marking the centre of the hole, then cover with a strip of masking tape to prevent • Soon after the tiles have been fitted and settled, use a sealer on the grout joints.
your drill from slipping. Make sure to test the sealer on a spare tile or small area first to make sure it
doesn’t damage or discolour the tiles in any way.
Ensure you have a source of water to spray or apply to the drilling area; this will keep • If any grout cracks or gets damaged, remove the grout in the area with a grout
the drill bit cool and remove any debris that builds up while drilling. rake, and reapply.
• For general maintenance, regularly sweep the floor and clean using a damp mop.
Start drilling at a low speed with only a moderate amount of pressure – too much and This should be about once a week, depending how high traffic the area is.
you could crack the tile. Keep drilling until you penetrate the backing board – you can • For a more thorough clean, use a non-abrasive detergent and warm water to
use a regular drill bit for this if you prefer. Keep drilling slowly to make sure you don’t clean. We recommend using Fila Cleaner.
damage the material behind the tile. • Don’t use any acid or bleach based cleaners.

How To Drill Though Porcelain Tile Replacing Damaged Tiles

Porcelain is a denser, harder material than ceramic, which makes drilling through them It happens unfortunately, occasionally you might have to replace a tile that has been
a slightly bigger challenge. Because of this, you should use a diamond tipped drill bit damaged. Don’t worry though, they’re fairly simple to replace, just follow these steps:
to drill your hole.
• Using a grout rake, scrape the old grout from around the damaged tile. Make
As with ceramic tiles, mark the centre of the hole to be drilled, then cover it with sure to do this gently to avoid damage to any of the other tiles.
masking tape, and ensure there’s a constant supply of cold water being sprayed onto • Drill 5 holes in the tile, one near each corner and one in the centre (you may
the drilling area. need more if it’s a large tile). Only drill through the tile and not too far behind it.
• Use a chisel and hammer to join the holes into an x shape from the centre hole.
The easiest way to drill a hole in a porcelain tile is by using the ‘lean in’ method - drilling This will loosen sections of the damaged tile, don’t be too rough or you might
at an angle until the drill has cut into the tile, at which point bring the drill perpendicular damage nearby tiles.
to the tile. Start slowly and keep applying just enough force to keep the drill working; • Once the damaged tile has been removed, scrape away the old adhesive until
exert too much pressure and you risk the tile cracking. it’s fully clear.
• Apply adhesive onto the back of the new replacement tile, this is easier than
Drilling Large Holes In Tiles trying to apply directly to the surface.
• Place the tile on the surface and twist into place to ensure it sticks, use tile
A larger hole might be needed to fit radiators and other pipes. For this you’ll need to spacers on each side of the tile.
purchase a hole saw kit if you don’t already have one; the bits should fit your existing • Leave to set before you re-apply grout to the joints.
drill.

Place the correct sized bit onto your drill and start to slowly drill through. Keep the drill
steady to avoid slipping on the tile’s surface. Build up speed slowly until you hear the
drill break through the glaze of the tile, then carry on until it’s all the way through.

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12.
Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)

What Is Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS) Made Of? The Pros of Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)
If you are relatively new to the concept, large gauged porcelain slabs are exactly how This gorgeous floor and wall tile (and more!!!) Option is taking the design industry
they sound; they are BIG and BEAUTIFUL with sizes as large as 60” x 120”. Along with by storm and allowing home and business owners to create a seemingly beautiful
kaolinite, porcelain contains silica, feldspar, and other mineral oxides, which give the transition within their space. With a stunning, wide selection, you are sure to fall in love
material its strength and durability. The clay is put into a kiln and fired at extremely high with Maximus.
temperatures. The end result is a super dense material nearly impervious to stains, Large porcelain slabs have been a popular finish in Europe for a while, but since they’ve
heat, UV rays, water, scratching, chips, and cracks. Pigmented glazes are added during crossed the pond, they’re making a big splash in the US! Traditionally when we think
manufacturing to create different colours and patterns on the porcelain slab. about porcelain tile, what inevitably comes to mind are small squares, or 4x6” (or larger)
subway style tiles separated by grout lines.
Porcelain can be either glazed or unglazed. A matte or high-gloss glaze is applied (this
glaze can sometimes include a pattern); it’s then fired a second time, so the glaze fuses Suppose you’ve renovated your home anytime in the last decade. In that case, you
and adheres. This glaze decreases porosity, increases durability, and creates a glossy might have replaced your ugly tile surfaces with granite or, if you’ve remodelled more
finish. recently, engineered stone like quartz. Today, thanks to computer-aided manufacturing
technology, large format porcelain tiles are available that recreate the look of natural
Make A Design Statement With Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS) material. They have a depth of pattern that is almost identical to natural marble, granite,
wood linen, or any other natural material you can think of. Best of all, it comes with
Imagine a tiled space with virtually no grout lines. Imagine limitless possibilities for your none of the maintenance issues or use restrictions of the natural material it emulates.
suffices and unparalleled flexibility for any kind of applications. Maximus is available in
3 thicknesses and a wide range of finishes and sizes. Heat resistant, recyclable, light Large-format porcelain slabs come in two sizes and two thicknesses. Slabs are 118”
weight, durable and easy to clean. x69” and 126” x 63”. Both are available in 6MM thickness, and the 126” slabs are
available in 12MM. It’s an excellent durable material that is significantly lighter and
Maximus is the best answer to the most challenging architectural and interior less costly than natural stone slabs and tile.
design needs. It’s an exciting time for homeowners considering kitchen or bathroom
remodelling. Thanks to modern computer-aided manufacturing techniques, you have Large-format porcelain is a stunning surface that:
more choices at better price points than ever before in terms of materials for your
home. Maximus is now available for kitchen and bathroom counter-tops. Thin-sheet • Requires no maintenance
large format porcelain is the perfect material for a kitchen back-splash, shower • Is a hard and durable material
surround, fireplace surrounds, or even the bathroom floor! • Is installed with minimal grout; seams are basically imperceptible
• Porcelain slabs are designed for fast installs over existing surfaces, produce less
waste, and are less expensive than stone.
• Porcelain is non-porous and etch, stain, and heat resistant

Porcelain slabs work in almost any situation. Counter-tops to shower surround,

backsplashes, bathroom floors, fireplace surround, and anywhere you want a seamless
look of continuous material, porcelain slabs are an excellent choice. With a wide range
of natural finishes with the depth of natural material patterns, porcelain slabs are an
excellent choice. If you want to stay on the cutting edge with your project, large format
porcelain is a perfect choice.

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12.
Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)

Application of Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS) Fireplace Surround

Imagine a fireplace with a gorgeous stone or wood design that reaches from the
Among a variety of benefits, the broad spectrum of areas for application has to be one floor to the ceiling. Gauged porcelain tile lets you extend your design and create a
of large gauged porcelain tile’s top features. Gauged porcelain slabs are not for the magnificent backdrop for your fireplace.
DIY project guru. Gauged porcelain slabs need to be handled and installed by trained
craftsmen who have the unique tools needed for an installation that will look stunning
and last a lifetime. Of course, these slabs can be used in the usual places where
porcelain tile is typically installed such floors, walls, and backsplashes but it excels in
Exterior Cladding
areas you never thought porcelain tile would be found:
Due to its many design options,
size, durability, fire resistance,
and relatively light-weightedness,
Counter-tops gauged porcelain tile is appearing
Gauged porcelain slabs can be on the exterior cladding of some of
fabricated to be one continuous today’s most prestigious architectural
(up to 10’) counter-top. Do you structures. Not only can this product
dream of calacatta marble counter- be considered for a façade of a large
tops but would not dare install it commercial building but it also has
because of the soft nature of the options for the exterior of residential
stone and maintenance nightmare? homes as well. The technical
Gauged porcelain tile slabs are the performances of the gigantic sized
perfect answer as they are durable, Maximus slabs are the perfect solution
maintenance-free, and gorgeous for the external cladding of buildings.
replications of the most-loved natural High resistance, light weight, easy
stone slabs in the world like calacatta, to install and maintain, with a high
cararra, onyx, travertine and more. aesthetic and energy value that
Now, you can finish off your kitchen enhance the building industry.
with stylish counter-tops that are as
sleek as they are durable. Furniture
Cutting-edge furniture designers
are using gauged porcelain slabs for
Sinks and Tubs creating stunning tabletops, benches,
With some beautiful gauged porcelain shelving units, doors, cabinets and
tile, a waterproof substrate, a more. With clever designs and custom
little caulking, and a creative mind, furnishings, the uses for this material
memorable and desirable sinks and seem endless. The best answer to a
tubs can easily be created. Not to big trend. Maximus is ideal for dressing
mention, this chic look can provide up modern spaces and covering doors,
your bathroom with the perfect tables, kitchen doors or living room
finishing touch. furniture.
Choose your favorite decorating
style in order to create a coordinated
environment. Marble, metal, stone and
concrete become part of the interior

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12.
Large Format Porcelain (MAXIMUS)

Installation Options The Bottom Line...

Like most counter-tops, when you choose large format porcelain, you have many options When it comes down to making a choice, ultimately it depends on your aesthetic style,
to choose from to meet your stylistic and design needs. Depending on the manufacturer, your functional needs, and your budget. If you love being on the cutting edge of design
porcelain slabs come in various colours, all derived from natural pigments. You can also or you’re looking for beautiful, unique materials that can make a stunning impact, large
choose from a wide range of patterns and looks available, from marble or metallic to format porcelain (Maximus) is an excellent choice. Maximus can fit into almost any
rusted steel, wood grain, or several stone species. design and any function within your home, from a feature wall or fireplace surround to
creating a seamless look in the master bath shower surround and floor. It’s even perfect
You also have a range of finishes to choose from as smooth or textured finishes can for some outdoor applications as it’s entirely UV resistant.
be easily achieved during manufacturing. High-gloss, matte or honed finishes are the
most popular. While you won’t have as many finish options like natural stone, the most Porcelain is extremely hard and not prone to etching, staining, or other damage like
popular types are available. natural stone. Unlike marble or stone, each porcelain slab is uniform, so you don’t need
to spend a lot of time visiting stone yards to choose the “perfect” slab. In fact, you can
Because of how it’s manufactured, porcelain’s edges are unique. While you can create continue a vein across a complete wall or cabinet bank with book-matched slabs for a
most of the standard edges, including round, bevelled, straight, bull-nose, cove, really upscale look. The bottom line is that large format porcelain is versatile, flexible,
platner, waterfall, and others, they don’t all translate well. Because porcelain’s colour durable, affordable, and incredibly beautiful!
is “applied,” you are limited as to which edge styles work. A fancy edge, with rounded
corners, bevels, and grooved, will remove the pattern.

Because of the size of the slabs and the thinness of the sheets, porcelain can sometimes
be applied over your existing counter-tops, sheet rock, tile, or other surfaces. This
versatility can reduce costs because you don’t necessarily need to pay the cost of
removing your old surfaces.

Versatile and simply beautiful, the Maximus slab revolutionizes the design and
architecture world by opening up new perspectives in tiles application that were
previously unimaginable.
All the continuous surfaces are designed for any type of application: floor and walls,
cladding, furnishing, counter-tops and provide creative flexibility and high technical and
aesthetic performances.

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RAK CERAMICS
P.O. Box 4714, Ras Al Khaimah,
United Arab emirates (U.A.E.)
Tel.: +971 7 2467000
Fax: +971 7 2445270
email : [email protected]