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Little Owl’s Hut

www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Crochet
Pattern
By Chirkova Tatiana
Skill level: Experienced
English Cocker Spaniel
About this pattern Materials
Please, read the whole pattern ! Main yarn
carefully before you start. I’ve White color – 100 g. I used ‘Khlopok Travka’ by Camtex (cotton 65%,
tried to do my best to present
polyamide 35%, 100g/220 m).
you with accurate pictures of
how to crochet and decorate the Beige color – 100 g. I used ‘Khlopok Travka’ by Camtex (cotton 65%,
dog. Due to the presence of small polyamide 35%, 100g/220 m).
parts and wire the dog is not
suitable as a toy for little
children.
I really hope that detailed step-
by-step instructions and pictures
will help you to gain experience
and provide you with satisfaction
from creative work. Everybody
works differently. This pattern is
just a guideline to help you make
your own unique doggie. It is up
to you to decide the way your Tip: If you want your dog to be one-color, then you will need 200 g of one
English Cocker Spaniel will look color yarn only.
like!
! White and beige fluffy fancy yarn. I used “Swan’s Down” by Nazar
I use USA terminology for my (100% Nylon (Polyamide), 100g/170m). You need: beige about 50 gr (if
pattern (don’t worry if you use you are going to make ears using two threads of yarn instead of one),
UK terms, all the differences are white about 20 gr.
explained in the pattern).

Finished size
20 cm (7.8 inches) tall till the
tips of the ears, 24 cm (9.4
inches) long from the tip of the
nose to the tips of back legs.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

! Small amount of dark brown smooth yarn work up the wire (the one you use to cover
matching the weight of the main yarn (for the wounds).
inner parts of the jaws). ! Coarse, fine and star shaped felting needles for
! Any thin smooth black thread and matching felting.
crochet hook. I used “Iris” by Kirov Yarn Mills ! Fake eyelashes.
(100% cotton, 25g/150m).
! Steel crochet hook. I used 1.5 mm (US steel hook –
8, UK steel hook - 4 1/2) crochet hook for the yarn
mentioned above.
! Steel crochet hook for making ears. I used 1.75 mm
(US steel hook – 6, UK steel hook – 3 1/2).
! Small amount of dark brown smooth yarn
matching the weight of the main yarn (for the
inner parts of the jaws).
! Any thin smooth black thread and matching
crochet hook. I used “Iris” by Kirov Yarn Mills ! Brush or Velcro for brushing up.
(100% cotton, 25g/150m). ! Small and big sharp scissors for finishing up.
! Wool for felting matching the color of the main ! Stuffing.
yarn (beige in my case) – small amount, just to felt
around the eyes. For nose and tongue made of polymer clay:
! Tapestry needle for tightening. ! Black and light pink polymer clay.
! Strong beige thread for tightening. ! Varnish.
! Two black half beads for the eyes (ø 9-10 mm). ! A loop for fastening the nose if needed.
! Ready-made nose 1.6 cm (0.6 inches) wide. You
can make the nose using polymer clay as well
(instructions are given in the pattern).
! Single core copper electrical wire for the main
parts approximately 60 cm (23.7 inches) long 2.5
mm diameter. Use only copper wire for the frame
as copper can better stand bending compared to
aluminum. You can buy it at electric supplies
stores.
! Thin firm electrical wire for the lower jaw
approximately 15 cm (5.9 inches) long 0.7-0.9 mm
diameter.
! Thin copper PVC electrical wire for the ears –
approx. 60 cm (23.7 inches) long. You can find this
type of wire winded together inside a cable. You
need one of those thin wires (not the whole cable). Nut and bolt joints for the legs:
You can buy it at electric supplies stores. ! 4 fiberboard discs 18-20 mm diameter (the width
of front legs top part).
! 4 fiberboard discs 22-25 mm diameter (the width
of back legs top part).
! 4 bolts or screws. Length should be about 1.5 - 2
cm. If using thicker yarn - long enough to hold
together 2 discs + 2 washers + 1 nut + thickness of
2 layers of crochet parts (body and leg).
! 4 nuts matching the size of the bolts or screws.
! 8 washers (make sure their diameter is sufficiently
Wire for making jewelry is also can be used.
smaller than the diameter of the fiberboard disks).
! Plaster - adhesive-backed fabric tape 1 cm wide to
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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

of back legs top part).

! 4 cotter pins with “flat (tee) head” preferably.

Length should be about 3 cm. If using thicker yarn

- long enough to hold together 2 discs + 2 washers
+ thickness of 2 layers of crochet parts (body and
leg) + enough length for curling up.
! 8 washers (make sure their diameter is sufficiently
smaller than the diameter of the fiberboard disks).

TIP: get 4 additional small washers if cotter pin has

a round head.

You will thread washers onto pin to prevent it from

pulling through a joint during tightening.

Where to find “Nut & Bolt” joint parts?

1. Individual parts can easily be found at a
hardware store.
2. As a set - on the Internet. Search for “Nut &
Bolt joints”.

TIP: Instead of “Nut & Bolt” joint you can use Cotter
Pin joints.

You will need:

! 4 fiberboard discs 18-20 mm diameter (the width
of front legs top part).
! 4 fiberboard discs 22-25 mm diameter (the width

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Marker
The toy is crocheted in continuous spirals (unless otherwise stated in the pattern) so you’ll need a stitch marker
to keep track of where the beginning of each round starts. If you don't have a stitch marker you can always use a
scrap of contrasting yarn instead. You can see it in my photos. Put it between the first and the last sts of the rnd
leaving the short tail in front of you and the main part behind the work. Work the next rnd to the marked place
and put its main part in front of the work. This simple way of putting the thread in front of and behind the work
after each rnd will let you know where the beginning of your rnd is. After you finish, it is easy to pull the thread
out. It is the quickest and the easiest way to mark rounds.

Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) Abbreviations

If there are no special notes, When making toys the right ch(s) = chain(s)
the toy is crocheted under side looks like this: st(s) = stitch(es)
both parts of the loop. In inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
some rows, there are special double inc(s) = double increasing(s) (3 sc in 1 st)
notes: ‘into the front loop double dec(s) = double decreasing (3 sc together)
only’ or ‘into the back loop dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together
only’. In that case, you need
sl st = slip stitch
to follow these instructions. sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
And the backside looks like dc = double crochet
this: rnd = round
bs = bobble stitch (Refer to “Bobble stitch” section for
the detailed explanation).

If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern,

multiplied by some number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x
3, it means you need to repeat this action 3 times, that
is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.

Gauge

Please note that you should use much thinner hook than
stated at the yarn label.

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK Projects for first-time crocheters using
basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
ch - chain ch - chain
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble
repetitive stitch patterns,
dc - double crochet tr - treble simple color changes, and simple
tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble shaping and finishing.
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch Projects using a variety of techniques,
such as basic lace patterns or color
patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK
fasten off cast off Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
skip miss techniques and dimension,
such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
gauge tension color techniques, fine threads, small
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Stitch explanation: Bobble stitch 2. Grab the color B yarn, leaving a tail, and pool up a
loop with the color B through both loops on the
1. Make 3 unfinished dc in each of the next 2 sts
hook.
(total 7 loops on hook).

3. Work 3 stitches, inserting the hook in the loop and

then under both the color A yarn and the tail you
have left when you attached the color B.

2. Yarn over and pull yarn through all loops on the

hook. 1 bobble stitch (bs) is ready.
4. Cut the color A yarn and continue working with
the color B yarn.

5. Leave the last stitch unfinished.

Changing colors
(A – main color, B – new color)
1. Leave the last stitch unfinished.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

6. Grab the color A yarn, leaving a tail, and pool up a

loop with the color A through both loops on the
hook.

Shift stitch
As work tends to twist to the right you need to adjust
7. Work 3 stitches, inserting the hook in the loop and position of the marker periodically (beginning of
then under both the color B yarn and the tail you round). If you notice that marker moves right, you
have left when you attached the color A. have to work one extra stitch in the end of round and
move marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of the round
becomes 1st). This is shift stitch. Some shift sts will be
mentioned in the pattern.

About joints
Nut and bolt joint
Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, two
washers and one nut and a bolt (screw).

8. Cut the color B yarn and continue working with

the color A yarn.

You save yarn working this way, get a nice right side as
all tails remain at the back side. Your work is not
Working “Nut and bolt” joint
tightened and deformed.
Take a bolt (screw), put on washer, and then disk (4
fiberboard discs 22-25 mm in diameter are for the
back legs):

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Cotter Pin joints

If cotter pin has “flat (tee) head”

Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 2 washers

Crochet till the word ‘screw’, put prepared part of the
and one cotter pin.
joint inside the limb and continue crocheting.
Take a cotter pin, put on a washer, and then a disk (4
fiberboard discs 22-25 mm in diameter are for back
legs):

** Crochet till the word ‘screw’, put prepared part of

Do not finish the limb. Leave 1 Rnd unworked to be
the joint inside the limb and continue crocheting. You
able to use tools for fastening (finish the limb after
can finish off the limb completely, with just the
joining it to the body).
cotter pin poking out. To attach leg to the body: insert
To attach leg to the body: insert the bolt (screw)
the poking cotter pin between sts marked with an
between sts marked with an additional marker. Put on
additional marker. Put on the second disc, followed by
the second fiberboard disc then the washer and the
the washer. Curl each part of the cotter pin with pliers
nut. Use tools to tighten the joint.
or a special tool to tighten the joint.
TIP: To help secure joints tightly I use medical forceps
for holding washers.

If cotter pin has “round head”

Add some glue to the end of the bolt (screw), take some
sewing thread and wrap it up around the bolt (screw)
Each joint consists of two fiberboard discs, 3 washers
to make sure the nut will stay in place.
and one cotter pin.
TIP: You may use bolt cutters to trim bolts so they Open the cotter pin slightly (you may need pliers) and
cannot get unscrewed accidentally. put one washer into the loop at the top. It prevents the
top of the cotter pin from flattening and pulling
through the joint during tightening.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Fasten off.
Bottom part
Ch 2 and work starting in 2nd st from the hook:
Row 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Row 2. 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc = 6 sts
Rows 3-4. 1 sc in each st across = 6 sts
Row 5. 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 4 sts
Press cotter pin closed and put on a washer, then a disc Row 6. 1 sc in each st across = 4 sts
(4 fiberboard discs 22-25 mm diameter are for back Ch 1 but do not turn your work after Row 6 and
legs). continue working in a continuous spiral all around the
piece.
Rnd 7. 3 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc
Put both parts together with their right sides facing
each other and work into the outer loops only (see the
picture below) hooking through both parts and joining
The rest is the same as for a cotter pin with tee head them together:
See ** in the section “If cotter pin has “flat (tee) Row 8. 13 sc
head”. Leave the straight side open. Fasten off.
Turn the jaw right side out.
NOTE: on some photos in the pattern dog’s parts are
made using different yarn than suggested in the
pattern. It is made on purpose so you can see stitches
better.

Muzzle

Lower jaw
Top part
Start working in rows (ch 1 and turn your work after
each row).
Ch 2 and work starting in 2nd st from the hook:
Row 1. 5 sc = 5 sts
Row 2. 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 3 sts
Rows 3-6. 1 sc in each st across = 3 sts
Ch 1 but do not turn your work after Row 6 and
continue working in a continuous spiral all around the
piece. Work sc along the unworked loops of the top part using
Rnd 7. 6 sc down along the side, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, black thin thread and matching hook, tightening a little
1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc in ch 1, 1 sl st.
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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

bit. I used “Iris” by Kirov Yarn Mills.

Upper jaw
Rnd 6. 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 hdc, 1 dec, 1 hdc, 3
Ch 2 and work starting in 2nd st from the hook: hdc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 dec
Rnd 1. 9 sc = 9 sts Rnd 7. 1 inc, 9 sc; work 1 sc hooking through the st of
Rnd 2. (1 double inc, 1 sc) x 4 the previous Rnd and the back loop of the 11th st from
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) in 1 st, 1 sc, (1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc) the hook; 2 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc; work 1 hdc hooking through
in 1 st, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc the st of the previous Rnd and the back loop of the 7th
Rnd 4. 4 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc, (1 sc, 1 hdc) in 1 st, inc, 1 st from the hook; 1 hdc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1
sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc
Rnd 5. 3 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc; work 1 sc, hooking
through both the st of the previous Rnd and the st of
Rnd 1 from the back side; 4 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc

Work 1 shift st and move the marker.

Rnd 8. 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 hdc, 2 hdc, 1 dec, 1
sc, 1 dec, 1 hdc, 3 hdc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 32 sts
Rnd 9. 1 inc, 5 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 2 hdc, 3 hdc, 1 inc, 1 sc =
34 sts

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Rnd 10. 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 dec, 2 hdc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 reach the tip of the nose but should not touch it):
hdc, 2 hdc, 1 inc from 1 sc and 1 sc (i.e. this increase
should consist of two sc of different colors: 1 sc is made
with main beige yarn and 1 sc is made with main white
yarn), 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc
Rnd 11. 1 inc, 5 sc; work 1 sc hooking through the st of
the previous Rnd and the back loop of the 7 th st from
the hook; 2 sc, 3 hdc; work 1 hdc hooking through the
st of the previous Rnd and the back loop of the 7th st
from the hook; 1 hdc, 1 inc, 1 sc
Continue working the head without fastening off.

Head
Rnd 12. 1 sc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 dec, join the
jaw and work 11 sc, hooking through both sts of the
head and the top part of the lower jaw, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 inc,
1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc

!
Continue working around the big circle:
Rnd 13. 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, work 1 sc in the side of
connecting row of the jaw, 9 sc along the bottom part
of the jaw, work 1 sc in the side of connecting row of
the jaw together with the next st, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc,
1 inc, (1 sc, inc) x 5
Rnd 14. 14 sc, 1 double dec, 16 sc, 6 sc
Rnd 15. 14 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 6 sc
Rnds 16-17. 1 sc, 6 sc, 6 sc
Prepare the wire frame for the jaw as shown in the
picture below and insert it with the loop being in the
lower jaw and the junction worked up with plaster
Stuff the upper jaw. Stuff the lower jaw slightly. Make
being in the upper jaw (the wire frame should almost
sure you do not stretch the piece lengthwise.
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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Rnd 18. 2 inc, 9 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) x 5, 2 dec, 7 sc, 7 sc sts

Rnd 19. 3 sc, 29 sc, 3 inc, 1 sc
Rnd 20. 3 sc, 28 sc, 4 sc, 4 sc
Rnd 21. 4 sc, 27 sc, 4 sc, 4 sc
Rnd 22. 7 sc, 1 dec, , 6 sc, 3 sc
Rnds 23-24. 1 sc in each st around
Rnd 25. 24 sc, 1 dec, (1 sc, 2 dec)
Rnd 26. (1 sc, 1 dec) x 6, (2 sc, 1 dec)
Rnd 27. 3 dec, (1 sc, 1 dec)
Stuff the head shaping it nicely.
Rnd 28. 5 dec
Leave the remaining sts unworked. Fasten off without
closing up the opening leaving a tail enough to close
the opening later. Continue working.
Initial head assembly
Find the right position for the eyes using sewing pins.
I’ve placed safety pins indicating the eyes somewhere
between 13th and 14th Rnds of the head leaving 10-11
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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

sts between them.

Thread your tapestry needle with beige strong thread.

Thread your needle again and insert it in the opening.
Insert the needle into the opening left after finishing
Pull the needle out in the area of the right eye again
the head, pull it out in the area of the right eye, make a
and pull eye sockets together a little bit with several
small stitch and get back to your starting point, pull
stitches forming the bridge of the nose.
both thread ends tight and secure them with a double
knot forming the eye socket.

Pull the needle out in the center of the inner part of

the mouth, pull a bit, deepening the eye socket. Repeat
the same for the 2nd eye. Secure the thread in the
opening of the head.

Do the same for the 2nd eye.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Eyebrows
Temporary attach the eyes and mark one eyebrow with
several safety pins.

Adjust the stuffing, close up the opening and weave in

loose ends.

Mark the second eyebrow symmetrically. Remove the

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

eyes.

Left eyebrow
Attach the main beige yarn at the last safety pin near
the nose bridge and work: ch 5, 3 sc, 1 inc in the corner,
8 sc (the number of sts may vary depending on the size
of the eyes). Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Right eyebrow
Attach the main beige yarn at the last safety pin from
the nose bridge and work: 2 sc, 1 inc in the corner, 6 sc,
5 sl st (the number of sts may vary depending on the
size of the eyes). Fasten off and weave in loose ends.

Pattern for the neck

You will need this pattern just to make the first Rnd of
the neck.
Work with the main yarn or with smooth yarn of the

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

same weight.
Rnd 1. 9 sc = 9 sts
Rnd 2. 9 inc = 18 sts
Rnd 3. 1 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 4. 1 inc, 3 sc, 3 sc, 1 double inc, 4 sc = 4 sts
Rnd 5. 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 3 sts
Rnd 6. (1 inc, 4 sc) x 2 = 6 sts
Row 7. 17 sc
End with a sl st leaving the remaining sts unworked.
Fasten off.

The neck is crocheted around the neck pattern.

Neck
You should place the pattern so that the “1 sc” of the
Mark the center of the bottom part with contrasting Row 1 should end up being in the center of the back
color yarn. part of the head marked with contrasting color yarn. So
count 4 sts (on the neck pattern) to the right from the
center of the back part of the head. Mark this st with a
safety pin. This will be your starting point.

Pin the neck pattern with its right side facing the head.

Pay attention that you should work in Rows at first (not

Rnds). Attach the yarn at the marked point and work:
Row 1. Ch 1, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc,
Fasten off.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Rnd 4. 12 sc, 3 sc, 10 sl st, 3 sc

Remove the neck pattern and the marking line, place
the marker and continue working in continuous
spirals.

Row 2. Step 1 st away from ch 1 of the previous row,

attach the yarn and work ch 1, 6 sc, 1 inc,
Fasten off.

Rnd 5. 4 sc, 12 sl st, 13 sc = 9 sts

Rnd 6. 9 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 4 sts
Rnd 7. 11 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc = 3 sts
Rnd 8. 1 sc in each st around = 3 sts

Row 3. Step 1 st away from ch 1 of the previous row, Rnd 9. 15 sc, 1 double inc, 3 sc, 1 double inc, 13 sc = 7

attach the yarn and work ch 1, 18 sc, 1 sl st = 20 sts sts

Fasten off. Rnd 10. 1 sc in each st around = 7 sts

Rnd 11. 3 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 7
sc, 1 inc = 3 sts
Rnd 12. 1 sc in each st around = 4 sts
Rnd 13. 2 sc, skip 4, 1 sc,

Attach the yarn at the center of the neck and continue

working around the pattern:
You now should work in rounds (not rows) now!

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Ear (make 2)
Ch 1 and turn your work after each row.
You can crochet ears using 2 strands of fluffy yarn
together. In this case ears will be bigger and fluffier but
Rnd 14. 8 sc, 3 sc = 11 sts
it is very hard to use 2 strand of fluffy yarn.
Rnds 15-16. 1 sc in each st around = 11 sts
One strand of yarn Two strands of yarn
Rnd 17. (6 sc, 1 inc) x 6, 1 sc = 9 sts
Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Ch 7 and work starting from 2nd st from the hook:

Row 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Row 2. 1 inc, 4 sc = 6 sts
Row 3. 1 inc, 6 sc = 10 sts
Rows 4-9. 1 sc in each st across = 10 sts
Row 10. 9 sc = 9 sts
Rows 11-13. 1 sc in each st across = 9 sts
Row 14. 3 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc = 8 sts
Rows 15-16: 1 sc in each st across = 8 sts
Row 17: 3 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 7 sts
Row 18: 1 sc in each st across = 8 sts
Row 19: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 6 sts

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Row 20: 1 sc in each st across = 6 sts

Right ear
Attach one strand of the main yarn to the top left edge,
Rnd 21 is worked differently for the left and the right put the wire for the ears and crochet the ear evenly
ears. around (wire should be hidden inside the edge).
Left ear Cut extra wire and fasten off.
Attach one strand of the main yarn to the top left edge, Fold sts of the top part of the ear in half clockwise,
put the wire for the ears and crochet the ear evenly leaving the last st unworked, attach the main yarn and
around. work 3 sc hooking through both layers, 1 inc in the
unworked st. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Tip: You may leave the wire edges sticking out of the
ear and hide them in the head later while sewing the
ears onto the head.

Rnd 21: 10 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, cut extra wire, 1
inc in the corner, fold remaining sts of the top part of
the ear in half counterclockwise and work 3 sc hooking
through both layers. Fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Brush up the ears leaving the last row unbrushed for

sewing.

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Little Owl’s Hut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet Pattern 2015

Insert the hook from the back side between the sts of
just crocheted Rnd and pull up a loop of ‘Swan Down’
yarn leaving all fluffy part at the right side.
Front legs
Right front leg
Work the whole leg with main white yarn adding fluffy
yarn when needed.
Ch 2 and work starting in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Rnd 4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Insert the hook between the next sts, pull up the loop
Start adding ‘Swan Down’ yarn along the back part of
and pull it through the previous one making 1 sl st.
the leg beginning from Rnd 8.
You can add yarn by using ‘patch’ method (changing
yarn while crocheting), but be careful as the leg can
distort stretching longwise.
Here is my method of adding fluffy yarn:
Advantages – thick hair, no distorting.
Disadvantages – it takes a lot of time.
TIP: If it is difficult for you to work the fluffy yarn
with the hook you worked the main yarn with, try
using slightly bigger hook instead.
After working Rnd 8 with the main yarn put a thread of
Swan Down yarn with its fluffy part looking down on
the right side:

Continue adding Swan Down yarn where needed at the

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legs and the body using this simple way. Make sure you
do not tighten your work. You’re supposed to end up
with a nice row of sl sts at the back side.

Cut “Swan’s down” yarn and carefully pull both yarn

tails to the back side:

You will have the fluffy part of the yarn being at the
right side of your work.

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the loop of the fluffy yarn on the inside.

Work the next Rnd with the main yarn. Then work the
2nd Rnd with Swan down yarn again the same way
inserting the hook between the sts without tightening
the piece. Do the same until the piece is finished.

So divide the leg in two approximately equal parts in

your mind: the front part with toes and the back part
with the heel. Add ‘Swan Down’ yarn only at the heel
area.
Next picture shows finished leg without fluffy yarn just
to show you where you should add yarn while
crocheting.

Tip: If you prefer not to cut fluffy yarn every row,

you can first crochet fluffy rows from right to left and
Rnd 17. 1 sc in each st round = 15 sts
then from left to right. When you stop working with
Rnd 18. 12 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 16 sts
fluffy yarn to crochet next Rnd with main yarn, use a
Rnd 19. 1 sc in each st round = 16 sts
stitch holder or a regular paper clip so you don’t lose
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Rnd 20. 5 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 18 sts

Rnd 21. 14 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 22. 6 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 23. 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc = 20 sts
Rnd 24. 8 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc = 21 sts
You don’t need to add Swan Down yarn further ".
Rnd 25. 9 sc, inc, 11 sc (22)
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
and stuff it.
Work Rnds 1-25 the same way you did for the right
front leg.
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
and stuff it.
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off and close up the opening.
Weave in loose ends.
Brush up both legs.

Rnd 26. 5 sc, screw, 5 sc, (1 dec, 3 sc) x 2, 1 dec (the

last dec should be in the center of the back part of the
leg) = 19 sts
Rnd 27. 9 sc, (1 dec, 2 sc) x 2, 1 dec = 16 sts
Add stuffing if needed. The top part of the leg should
be almost unstuffed in the area of joining to the body.
Rnd 28. Dec until the opening is closed.
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off and close up the opening.
Weave in loose ends.

Left front leg (for stationary position)

Left front leg (for walking position)

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Rnd 20. 15 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 18 sts

Ch 14 and work starting from 2nd ch from the hook:

Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Rnd 1. 1 sl st, (1 bs, 1 sl st) x 4, continue working 10 sc
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
along the other side of the chain = 19 sts
and stuff it.
Rnd 2. 3 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 28. 4 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, screw, 5 sc, 1 dec,
So divide the leg in two approximately equal parts in
the marker will move 1 st to the left (the last dec should
your mind: the front part with toes and the back part
be in the center of the back part of the leg)
with the heel. The marker goes along the left side of the
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off and close up the opening.
leg. Add ‘Swan Down’ yarn only at the heel area.
Weave in loose ends.

Rnds 5-8. 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts

Rnd 9. 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 7 sl st (make sure 1
sc between incs is in the center of the front part of the
leg) = 16 sts
Rnds 10-11. 1 sl st, 9 sc, 6 sl st = 16 sts
Rnd 12. 4 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc = 15 sts
Rnds 13-14. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Rnd 15. 12 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 16. 1 sc in each st around = 16 sts
Rnd 17. 5 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc = 17 sts
Rnds 18-19. 1 sc in each st around = 17 sts
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Brush up both legs. Rnds 8-12. 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts

Rnd 13. 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 14. 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 15. 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc = 16 sts
Then add ‘Swan Down’ yarn for 3 full rounds (Rnds 16-
18)
Rnd 16. 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, the marker
will move 1 st to the left = 15 sts
Rnd 17. 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 15 sts
Back legs Rnd 18. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts

Left back leg Rnd 19. 6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 dec = 15 sts

Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts Rnd 20. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts

Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 21. 7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc = 16 sts

Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts Rnd 22-24. 1 sc in each st around = 16 sts

So divide the leg in two approximately equal parts in You don’t need to add ‘Swan Down’ yarn further ".
your mind: the front part with toes and the back part Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
with the heel. Add ‘Swan Down’ yarn only at the toes Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
area and in 3 full rounds stated below. and stuff it.

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Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts

Rnd 4. (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
So divide the leg in two approximately equal parts in
your mind: the front part with toes and the back part
with the heel. Add ‘Swan Down’ yarn in a semicircle
only at the toes area and in 3 full rounds stated below:

Rnd 36. 5 sc, 1 dec (it should be in the center of the

back part of the leg), (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 6 sc = 21 sts
Rnd 37. Screw, 7 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 38. 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 39. Dec until the opening is closed
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off and close up the opening.
Weave in loose ends. Rnd 8. 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 9. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Right back leg (for stationary position) Rnd 10. 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 11. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Rnd 12. 2 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 13. 3 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 14. 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc = 16 sts
Then add ‘Swan Down’ yarn for 3 full rounds (Rnds 15-
17)
Rnd 15. 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec = 15 sts
Rnd 16. 5 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 15 sts
Brush up both legs.
Rnd 17. 6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 dec = 15 sts
Rnd 18. 1 sc in each st around = 15 sts
Rnd 19. 7 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 dec, the marker will move 1
st to the left = 15 sts
Cut a piece of wire equal to the length of foot and leg.
Work up the cuts with plaster. Insert the wire in the leg
and stuff it.

Right back leg (for walking position)

Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts
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Body
Work 3 rounds with main beige yarn.
Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
Rnd 2. 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnd 3. (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
Cut the yarn leaving a tail enough to work 1 round, put
your work aside and make a tail = 18 sts

Tail
Work with main beige yarn.
Rnd 34. 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec (it should be in the center of
Ch 2 and work in 2nd st from the hook:
the back part of the leg), 6 sc, screw, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1
Rnd 1. 6 sc = 6 sts
dec, 1 sc = 21 sts
Rnd 2. 1 sc in each st around = 6 sts
Rnd 35. 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 19 sts
Rnd 3. 1 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 8 sts
Rnd 36. 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 4. 1 sc in each st around = 8 sts
Rnd 37. Dec until the opening is closed.
Rnd 5. 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 10 sts
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off and close up the opening.
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
Weave in loose ends. Brush up both legs.
Rnd 6. 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc = 12 sts
Don’t fasten off!

Body (continue)
Attach the tail to the body using the yarn left after
finishing three rounds of the body and continue
working the body.
The marker will move. Fasten off.
Continue working the body beginning from the marker
of the tail around the big circle.

Rnd 5. 6 sc, (1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc) x 2 = 28 sts

Rnd 6. 3 sc, 1 inc, (6 sc, 1 inc) x 3, 3 sc = 32 sts
Start adding ‘Swan Down’ yarn only at the bottom part

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of the body (belly area). belly’s area. You can use a marker that
Rnd 7. 1 sc, (1 inc, 7 sc) x 3, 1 inc, 6 sc = 36 sts disappears after a while. But do not worry. It
Rnd 8. 1 inc, 9 sc, place an additional marker here, 21 will hide under fluffy yarn.
sc, place an additional marker here, 11 sc = 43 sts
When you mark the position of the back legs, attach
them to see if you need to adjust the area where Swan
down yarn will be. Make sure it does not cross the
border of Swan down yarn of the back legs. We should
smoothly move from the border of Swan down yarn of
the back legs to the border of Swan down yarn of the
front legs.

3. Add fluffy yarn working right to left and left to

right or cutting the yarn every row..

If it is difficult for you to add fluffy yarn this way, you

may like the other variant. (Thanks to ThreadTeds for
suggesting this variant).
1. Do not add fluffy yarn until you mark the
position for the back legs. When you mark the
position of the back legs, temporally attach
The right side will look like this:
them and mark the hairline of the legs.

The back side will look like this:

2. Draw an outline for adding fluffy yarn on the
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4. Continue working the same way marking the

area and adding yarn as you go.
Rnd 11. 1 inc, 2 sc, 38 sc, 2 sc = 44 sts
Rnd 12. 5 sc, 37 sc, 2 sc = 44 sts
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
Rnd 13. 5 sc, 36 sc, 3 sc = 44 sts
Rnd 14. 6 sc, 34 sc, 4 sc = 44 sts
Rnd 15. 7 sc, 33 sc, 4 sc = 44 sts
Rnd 16. 8 sc, 32 sc, 4 sc = 44 sts
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
If you plan to use nut and bolt or cotter pin joints for
the back legs, do it now. Attach back legs between sts
marked with additional markers and fasten them. See
“About joints” for details. The main marker goes along
the dog’s back.

Tip: In order to avoid the nuts from unscrewing, you

may try the following. Wrap any sewing thread
around the bolt for several times close to the nut and
secure it with a drop of glue. Let it dry.

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Thanks to ThreadTeds for pictures.

Rnd 22. 1 sc, 7 sc, 3 sc, 24 sc, 3 sc = 38 sts

Rnd 23. 1 sc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 2 sc = 40 sts
Rnd 24. 1 sc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 2 sc = 42
sts
Rnd 25. 1 sc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 2
sc = 45 sts
Rnd 26. 1 sc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 23 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 2 sc = 47 sts
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
Rnd 27. 2 sc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc,
7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 6 sc = 52 sts Rnd 30. 1 inc, 15 sc, 23 sc, 14 sc = 54 sts

Rnd 28. 4 sc, 5 sc, 4 sc, 27 sc, 3 sc, 3 sc, 6 sc = 52 sts Rnd 31. 18 sc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 5 sc, 3 sc, 6

Rnd 29. 14 sc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 13 sc = 53 sts sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 57 sts

Stuff the back part of the body. Rnd 32. 1 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, 18 sc, 5 sc, 5 sc, 8 sc = 58 sts
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
Then continue working the bottom part of the body
with just the main color trying not to make the color
transition of ‘Swan Down’ yarn too sharp.

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TIP: If you think additional markers for legs are “on

the side” then you may need to work shift stitches
Usually you need it only if you use thicker yarn.

After you mark the place of attaching the front legs,

start decreasing the number of sts with Swan down
yarn at both sides to get a little fluffy triangle on the
dog’s chest.

Rnd 33. 44 sc, 5 sc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc = 59 sts

Rnd 34. 4 sc, 1 inc, 40 sc, 3 sc, 11 sc = 60 sts
Rnd 35. 53 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc = 61 sts
Rnd 36. 6 sc, 1 inc, 54 sc = 62 sts
Rnd 37. 1 sc in each st around = 62 sts
Work 1 shift stitch and move the marker.
Rnd 38. 1 sc in each st around = 62 sts
Stuff the body. Pay attention to the dog’s back shaping
it nicely:

If you plan to use nut and bolt or cotter pin joints for
Rnd 39. 12 sc, 1 dec, 32 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec = 59 sts
the front legs, do it now. Attach the front legs between
Rnd 40. 40 sc, 1 dec, 17 sc = 58 sts
sts marked with additional markers.
Rnd 41. 15 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, place an additional marker
Add stuffing. If dog stands well, remove the stuffing,
here, 21 sc, place an additional marker here, 4 sc, 1 dec,
and fasten the legs (see “About joints” for details). If
12 sc = 56 sts
the dog is not stable, adjust the position of the legs.
Don’t follow the marker any more.
Make sure you leave 21 sts between the legs. Move
them 1-3 sts up or down from the marked places and

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fasten them (see “About joints” for details).

Assembly
Tongue
You can crochet the tongue or cut from felt or any
other suitable fabric. I use polymer clay to make the
tongue.
Choose proper color of polymer clay or blend the colors
you have to get the needed one.
Then stuff the body as you go shaping the chest and the Look carefully at the photos of the dog with open
withers. mouth to choose the form and the size of the tongue
Rnd 47. 2 sc, 1 dec, (6 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 5 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc = that would suit the image of your spaniel. It is up to
34 sts you to decide upon the shape, the position and the
Rnd 48. (1 dec, 5 sc) x 4, 1 dec, 4 sc = 29 sts length.
Leave the remaining sts unworked.
Adjust the stuffing, fasten off, close up the opening and Instructions
weave in loose ends. 1. Knead a piece of polymer clay and shape the
tongue. Try on the tongue all the time into the
dog’s mouth to check the result. Make it neither
too thin, nor too thick.

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5. Make some final shaping in the mouth using

any suitable tool. I used a wooden stick.

2. As soon as you get the result needed, slightly

divide the tongue in two at the tip with a sharp
end of a needle.
6. Make a hole in the middle of the back part of
the tongue so you can use it to sew tongue
inside the mouth if you want.
7. Make sure you read the instructions for your
polymer clay. Bake the tongue and let it get
cold. Varnish it and wait until it gets dry.

3. Give the tongue natural shape so it does not

look flat. Slightly press it with your fingers as if
you want to fold it in half.

Brush up the dog’s muzzle in different direction:

4. Draw the line in the center of the tongue with a

sharp end of a needle.

If you plan to use a safety nose, glue it onto its place.

However, you can make it using polymer clay.

Nose Made From Polymer Clay

1. Knead a piece of black clay, shape a triangle of the

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dog’s nose size. Prepare a loop if needed.

2. Make two nostrils with blunt end of a pin.

6. If you have a small metal loop, attach it at he back

3. Carefully tear the sides with sharp end of a pin.
side of the nose so you can use it for sewing the
nose to the muzzle before adding some glue.
Make sure you read the instructions for your polymer
clay.
I bake the nose in the oven at 130 ºC for up to 5
minutes. When it gets cold, varnish it and put aside
until it is completely dry.
Sew the nose to the muzzle (if you added a metal loop
to the nose) then add some glue to attach nose closer to
4. Smooth the edges so they don’t look too sharp.
the muzzle.
Sew the tongue into the mouth (if you made a hole for
it) then add some glue to secure the tongue inside the
mouth.

5. Draw the line in the center of the nose with sharp

end of a pin. If you want to make teeth, make very little cones from
white polymer clay and glue them to the lower jaw.
Keep in mind that Cocker Spaniel has small fangs.

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Glue the eyelashes around the edges of the half-beads Glue the eyes, felt the lower eyelids. Use white felting
using any transparent glue: wool to highlight the whites of the eye around the lower
eyelid squeezing the wool with needle between the eye
and the lower eyelid.

Take a piece of wool for felting matching the color of

the eyes area and felt upper eyelids with star shaped
felting needle.

Work the marked area with the coarse felting needle,

highlighting the eyebrows. Shape the head
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straightening the forehead and slightly flatting the back

part of the head.

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Pin the neck to the body stretching it well. you like.

Sew it to the body stuffing the back part very well as

you go before your final stitches. Try to stretch the area
with folds as little as you can.

Pin the ears and sew them onto the head.

Brush the dog along the hairline.

Brush up the dog and tint the back and the muzzle if
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Shape fluffy triangle on the chest with the scissors:

Pay special attention to the head, lifting the hair in the

eyebrows area to make them look more natural.
Trim the legs and the belly using big scissors shaping
them and making nice transitions.

Trim the ears with sharp scissors along the edge.

Trim the tail to make it neat.

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Trim the muzzle.

Finish your work with scissors, tinting and needle for

felting to get the image of your unique Cocker Spaniel.

Your Cocker Spaniel is ready!

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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “Little Owl’s Hut”.
Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Littleowlshut
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Copyright notes: ©2015 Little Owl’s Hut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.

If you have an online or street shop where you sell items made from my patterns, you’re eligible to be
included in my list of LittleOwlsHut-designed toy sellers, and get some free publicity for your shop.
It’s 100% free service to you! Please visit (www.LittleOwlsHut.com) for details on how to apply.

Text and images Copyright ©2015 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!

Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.

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