Basics of Weaving

Technology

Jitendra Kumar Arya – Head Technical

 PRINCIPLE OF WEAVING
• Weaving is one of the secondary processes linked
to textile engineering for producing Woven fabric.
• Basically, weaving is the process of interlacing two
types of Tape known as warp (run parallel to the
weaving machine) and weft or filling (run
perpendicular to the loom) to produce a Woven
fabric.

2
DESIGN OF WEAVE
WARP

WEFT

3
 TERMINOLOGY
WARP: Tape running the length of the loom across
which tapes are woven.

WEFT: Tape which are woven crosswise to the warp to

form the web.
DENIER : The grammage of 9000-meter length of Tape.
TEX : The grammage of 1000-meter length of Tape
TENACITY: Force per unit gram of tape is called tenacity
and its unit is GPD (grams per Denier)
Tensile strength of Tape (kgf) X 1000
Denier of Tape
4
Fabric Mesh/density: Measured as the number of
tape per square inch in both the warp and weft
direction of woven fabric
Ends per dm: Numbers of warp tape in per 10cm of
fabric.
Pick per dm: Number of weft tape in per 10cm of
fabric.
Shed: The opening created on a loom where the weft
tape passes.
Pick: A single pass of weft tape through the shed. 5
Shuttle: A shuttle which looks like a boat and is
hollowed out to hold a weft bobbin.

Threading Hook: A small tool with a thin narrow

hook used to pull the warp tape through the heddle
eyes.

Bobbin : A spool or cylindrical barrel onto which tape

is wound for use in production.

DFL : Double flat lay (tubular shape of fabric)

SFL : Single flat lay ( Single layer of fabric)

6
Weave : The term weave is used normally to
describe the structure of a woven fabric or the
process of weaving.

GSM (gram per square meter) : The weight of one-meter

length by one-meter width of SFL (Single Flat Lay) of
fabric in gram is called GSM.
GPM (gram per meter) : The weight of one- meter
length of DFL (Double flat Lay ) of fabric in gram is
called GPM.

7
 Types of Weaving Machine

Loom

Multiple shed
Single shed Loom
Loom
Hand Loom Circular Loom
Power Loom (4 Shuttle to 12 shuttle
Jet Loom Loom)
Rapier Loom
Projectile Loom

8
Single shed Loom
9
Application of Geotextile

10
Multiple shed Loom

11
12
SIGNIFICANCE

13
 TYPICAL PARTS OF LOOM
1) Creel Assembly
• Two nos. creel are used at the either side of the machine
to hold warp bobbins.

Creel
Eyelet

Tension
Rod

14
 2) Warp Infeed System
 Consisting of inlet and intermediate rollers
 To provide the proper tension to warp tape.

Water Tray

Inlet Roller

Guide Roller
15
 3) COPENSATOR/HEDDLE BELT
Smoothly feeding of individual warp tape inside
the heddle belt

Compensato Heddle
r Belt

16
 4) CAM
Shedding Mechanism moves the warp tapes up
and down and allows the shuttle to pass in between the
warp tapes.
Cam

Cam Rollers

Swinging
Lever 17
 5) SHUTTLE BODY
 It’s is a medium to pass weft tape between the warp
tape
 Rotate by the rotation of cam.

18
 Shuttle assembly
warp guide
Bobbin holder rear
Bobbin holder front

Tension pad

Shuttle body Shuttle wheel

Shuttle wheel Shuttle roller Shuttle guide
19
 6) INSERTION FINGER/BOOM HOLDER
 It’s attached with shuttle body to mount the weft tape
inside the weaving ring

Boom Holder

Insertion
finger

20
 7) WEAVING RING
 It’s provided the shape to the fabric as a DFL

Weaving
Ring Round Holder/
Gauge Ring

21
 8) REED RING
 It’s provided track for shuttle movement

Read ring

22
 9) Gusseting Device
• Gusseting device is used in the machine to make
gusset (inside fold) on the both side tubular fabric.

Gusseting
device
23
 10) Take-up Mechanism
 Take-up mechanism having one take up roller,
one pressure roller and a gear Box Assembly.

Takeup Pressure
Roller Roller

24
 11) Slitting Device
 Ultrasonic / Thermal slitting device with adjustable
temperature control.

25
 12) CWM Controller
The CWM Controller controls the speed of the haul off. It
facilitates feeding of desired mesh within the machine
capacity range.
Following machine parameters can be
recalled on the screen during running of
machine for the effective supervision.

• Machine speed indication in PPM

• Haul-off speed in meters per minute
• Production of each shift in meters
• Actual operating time in each shift
• Warp breakage incidents in each shift
• Weft breakage incidents in each shift
• Weft end incidents in each shift
13) REINFORCEMENT

Reinforcemen
t Area
14) LUBRICATION System
 15) WARP EXHAUST SYSTEM
• when any drop wire with cone rest on the
connection strip at warp end / warp broken
condition, than it shows warp end fault on
controller screen and machine stops.

rest

30
16) Warp stop devices:
At the time of warp tape breakage, compensator from
which warp tape has runoff / loosen, false back on
earthing ring and stops the machine.
It also helps in waste reduction.

31
17) Weft stop devices:
i) Magnetic sensor: Whenever weft tape breaks,
magnetic disc returns and sensor senses that and stops
the machine. Magnetic sensor’s function is to stop the
machine at the time of weft tape breakage or run off,
helps in wastage reduction.

32
ii) Color sensor: Whenever weft packet or bobbin is
about to be exhausted or getting empty then sensor
senses its black color and stops the machine
immediately
“Color sensors stops the machine just before finish of the
weft tapes and prevents the fabric wastage”
Colour
Sensor

33
 Different Models of Circular
Loom
LSL Series Circular
Loom

34
Nova Series Circular Loom

35
BOBBIN STORAGE IN TROLLEY

36
 DIFFERENT TYPES OF PLASTIC WEAVING
DESIGNS

NORMAL or
LENO ANTISKID VENTILATE
PLAIN
WEAVE WEAVE D WEAVE
WEAVE

37
 1) PLAIN WEAVE
In plain weave cloth, the warp and weft tape cross at right
angles, aligned so they form a simple criss-cross pattern.
Each weft tape crosses the warp tape by going over one, then
under the next, and so on. The next weft tape goes under the
warp tape that its neighbor went over, and vice versa.

38
Applications
Agricultural product packaging. ...
Food packaging. ...
Geotechnical engineering. ...
Tourism and transport. ...
Daily necessities. ...
Flood control products. ...
Special woven bags.

39
 2) LENO WEAVE
Leno weave (also called gauze weave or cross weave)
is a weave in which two warp tape are twisted around
the weft tape to provide a strong yet sheer fabric.
Leno weave produces an open fabric with almost no
yarn slippage or misplacement of threads.

40
Applications
•Produce bags - onions, potatoes, cabbage
•Shellfish bags - oysters, mussels and clams
•Firewood bags
•Curtains and drapery
•Mosquito netting
•Clothing

41
3) ANTI SLIP WEAVE

42
Applications
•The fabric used to make these kind of bags is made by
weaving a specific kind of pattern to ensure stackiness and
intermeshing
•These bags don’t slip and fall while making huge stacks
•Used in large warehouse to maximize space utilisation
•Used for high volume warehousing and logistics to ensure
efficiency
•Has significant impact in reducing warehousing cost

43
 4) VENTILATED WEAVE
Ventilated The fabric is specially designed to
maximize the airflow and to substantially reduce
the spoilage of potato and onion occurs due to
moisture and mold build-up.

44
Applications
Specifically used in storing and transporting dry
products. All material filled into bag can breathe
easily. Also used for loading some vegetables like
onion, potato.

45
 CALCULATION RELATED TO WEAVING

1- Tape width (mm) = 25.4 ÷ fabric warp or weft Mesh (inch)

2- No. of warp tape = width of DFL fabric (inch) x warp mesh x

2

3- Tape group in Belt = No. of warp Tape

Total no. of heddle belt

4- Weaving Ring ID (mm) = 16.17 x width of DFL fabric (inch)

46
6- Fabric Production (mt/hr) = 1.524 x PPM
Weft Mesh of fabric (in inch)

7- Fabric Production (kg/hr) = Fabric Production (mt/hr) X GPM

1000

8- Fabric GSM = Denier X Fabric Mesh (Warp + Weft)

228.6

9- Denier of Tape = 228.6 x GSM

Fabric Mesh (Warp + Weft)

10- GPM = GSM x width of DFL fabric (inch)

19.68

11- Fabric grammage (local term) = GPM of fabric

width of DFL fabric (inch)
47
 How to calculate Tape Property based on fabric
quality
For example : A 80gsm woven fabric of 10 x 10 Mesh required
900N Breaking strength, then tape strength, denier & tenacity
are calculated as follows:

Tape Strength : Fabric breaking strength

Fabric Mesh (Warp + Weft)

Tape Strength ( in N): 900 ÷ (10 + 10)

= 900 ÷ 20

Tape Strength = 45N*( 4.59 Kgf)

* Ideal calculation, but considering weaving loss of
5%, additional 5% higher strength is desired i.e 47.25 N
48
Denier of Tape = 228.6 x GSM
(warp mesh + weft mesh)

= 228.6 x 80
(10+10)

Denier = 914

Tenacity = Tape Strength (kgf) x 1000

Denier
= 4.59 x 1000
914
Tenacity = 5.02 gpd
49
Thank you

50