The Culinary Institute of America

GRILLING
contents

mise en place for grilling 1 seafood 46

Grilled Shrimp Paste on Sugarcane with Hoisin Peanut Sauce, 49
FireCracker Shrimp, 51
Grilled Shrimp and Pineapple with Adobo de Achiote, 52
Spicy Asian Grilled Shrimp and Marinated Vegetable Salad, 53
Grilled Baby Octopus with Coconut Rice, 55
Grilled Lobster with Broccoli Raab & Cannellini Beans
with Pancetta, 56
Seafood Grill with Tamarind Glaze, 58
Shore Dinner, 59
Cedar-Planked Salmon with Huckleberry-Zinfandel Sauce, 60
Salmon BLT, 63
Smoked Salmon, 63
meats 12 Pesce Spada Siciliana (Grilled Swordfish Sicilian-Style), 65
Albuquerque Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Grilled Marinated Swordfish Skewers, 66
Beans and Greens Sauté, 14
Fish Kebabs with Cilantro and Cashew Chutney, 67
Pulled Pork Barbecue Sandwich, 19
Grilled Mackerel with Thyme, 68
Barbecued Spareribs with Apricot-Ancho Glaze, 20
Grilled Bluefish with Creole Mustard Sauce, 69
Jerked Pork Chops, 21
Baja-style Fish Tacos with Southwestern Slaw, 70
Guava-Glazed Baby Back Ribs, 22
Grilled Mahi-Mahi with Pineapple Chutney, 73
Skewered Beef Fillet with Chimichurri Sauce, 23
Smoked Trout with Apple-Horseradish Cream, 74
Beef Strip Loin with Wild Mushroom Rub
Grilled Tuna with Salsa Verde, 77
and Wild Mushroom Sauté, 24
Grilled Red Snapper with Marinated Jícama and
Beef Teriyaki, 27
Manchamantel Sauce, 79
Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Grilled T-Bone Steak Tuscan-Style), 29
Grilled Beef Fajitas, 31
Grilled Venison Chops with Sherry-Mustard Sauce, 32
Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 34
Grilled Hamburgers with Guacamole and Chipotle
Pico de Gallo, 35
Grilled Lamb Chops with Artichoke and Tomato Sauté, 36
Spicy Lamb Kebabs with Pickled Grapes, 39
Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 40
Barbecued Veal Breast, 41
Berbere Grilled Leg of Lamb, 42
poultry 82 vegetables 116
“Beer Can” Chicken, 84 Sweet Corn with Roasted Garlic, Scallion, and
Black Jack Chicken Breasts, 87 Lime-Chili Butters, 117

Grilled Chicken Bulgogi-Style, 89 Grilled Corn Velvet Soup with Lobster, 120

Plum-Glazed Grilled Chicken, 90 Grilled Plum Tomatoes with Basil Pesto, 121

Grilled Cinnamon Chicken, 91 Grilled Asparagus and Sweet Peppers, 123

Pan-Smoked Chicken with Apricot-Ancho Grilled Artichokes with Hazelnut Romesco Sauce, 124
Barbecue Glaze, 92 Grilled Cauliflower with Brown Butter Sauce, 125
Grilled Honey-Spice Chicken Roast , 95 Marinated Pepper Salad with Pine Nuts and Raisins, 126
Tandoori-style Chicken with Yogurt Masala, 96 Mixed Grill of Garden Vegetables with Three
Rosemary-Skewered Chicken & Mushrooms with Naan, 97 Mediterranean Sauces, 128

Grilled Quail with Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous, 99 Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 131

Goat Cheese–Stuffed Turkey Burgers with Roasted Acorn Squash with Grilled Vegetable Ragoût , 132
Red Pepper–Apricot Relish, 100 Grilled Belgian Endive, 133
Chicken Burgers with French-Fried Potatoes, 103 Grilled Radicchio Salad with Shaved Jícama, Oranges,
Sateh of Chicken, 105 and Hazelnut Vinaigrette, 135

Jerked Game Hens with Rice and Beans and Grilled Grilled Summer Squash, 136
Pineapple–Jícama Salad, 106 Grilled Ratatouille, 137
Grilled Basil-Lemon Cornish Game Hens Grilled Fennel Salad with Oranges, Olives, and Cilantro, 138
with Meyer Lemon Salsa, 111 Grilled Red Peppers with Orzo Salad Stuffing, 140
Spit-Roasted Duck with Orange-Ginger-Soy Glaze and Grilled Beet Salad with Walnuts, Cilantro, and Tomatoes, 142
Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf, 112
Grilled Leeks , 144
Peppercorn Rabbit with Figs Wrapped in Prosciutto, 114
Grilled Sweet Onions, 144
sides and sandwiches 146 breakfast 172
Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Pecan–Molasses Butter, 147 Thick-Sliced Grilled Toast with Apricot and
Grilled Herbed Polenta, 148 Lemon-Cardamom Butters, 173

Skillet Cornbread with Cheddar Cheese and French Toast with Honey-Orange Butter and Orange Suprêmes, 175
Grilled Corn, 150 Buckwheat Flapjacks with Hibiscus Honey, 176
Hoe Cakes, 151 Pear Skillet Cake, 179
Black Bean Cakes, 152 Herbed Crêpes with Grilled Asparagus and Shallots, 181
Grilled Tofu, 153 Spinach-Feta Omelet , 182
Grilled Potato Skewers with Curried Onion Spanish Omelet, 184
Dipping Sauce, 155 Fried Eggs with Mushrooms and Sausage, 185
Grilled Potato and Red Onion Fans, 156 Toad in a Hole with Red Pepper Ketchup, 187
Griddled Angel Biscuits, 157 Cornmeal-Crusted Trout, 188
Crostini with Grilled Tomato and Fontina, 158 Grilled Flank Steak Hash, 190
Crostini with Grilled Lamb, Scallions, Grilled Ham Steaks with Grilled Pineapple Salsa, 191
and Baba Ghanoush, 160
Grilled Skirt Steak with Jalapeño-Cilantro Butter, 192
Grilled Chicken Burritos with Tomatillo Salsa, 163
Grilled Cubano Sandwich, 165
Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego, 166
Grilled Pizza, 168 desserts 194
Naan, 170 Brownies with Grilled Fruit Salsa, 195
Bananas Foster Tartlets, 197
Crêpes with Grilled Pears and Butterscotch Sauce, 199
Grilled Banana Split with Homemade Ice Cream, 200
Grilled Fruit Skewers with Buttermilk Ice Milk, 205
Grilled Peaches with Vanilla Ice Cream and Raspberry Sauce, 207
Baked Apples Filled with Walnuts and Cream, 208
Grilled Peppered Pineapple with Tequila–Orange Sauce and
Candied Kumquats, 210
Grilled Papaya and Mango Skewers with Lime Sorbet, 212
Grilled Biscuit Omelets with Wild Strawberries, 213
S’mores, 214
Grilled Pound Cake with Coffee Ganache, 216
Grilled Angel Food Cake with Fresh Berries, 219

Index 221
Weights and Measures Conversion Tables 229
 mise en place for grilling

G
reat grilling depends upon three basic elements: Grill brushes have wire bristles. Some also have a metal
wonderful food, the right equipment, and good tech- blade to scrape the grill rack. If you don’t have a brush handy,
nique. Everyone knows that the best raw materials are at the you can use a crumpled piece of foil to scour the rack before
heart of all good cooking. The recipes throughout this book you begin grilling.
give you an opportunity to explore familiar and unfamiliar Brushes and mops are used to apply glazes, marinades,
foods on the grill. In this chapter, we concentrate on tech- and sauces. A long handle keeps your hands and arms out of
nique and equipment for getting the most from your grill. the heat when grilling over direct heat. You can use regular
pastry brushes with shorter handles for delicate foods that
are cooked over indirect heat for better control of the brush
Direct and Indirect Grilling
and less chance of tearing the food you are grilling. Avoid
Controlling the temperature of the grill as foods cook is one nylon or other materials that might melt. Be sure to clean
of the challenges facing the outdoor chef. Using direct or in- these tools completely after you use them. It is easy for mar-
direct grilling techniques, or a combination of the two, gives inades and sauces to stick to the bristles. Replace these tools
you the flexibility to prepare almost any food on the grill, as often as necessary.
even large cuts of meat or delicate fruits. Spatulas and tongs are indispensable for turning foods
Direct-heat grilling means that foods are placed directly and taking them from the grill. Be sure that spatulas are wide
over a lively flame or bed of coals, where the heat is highest enough and long enough to handle the food you are cook-
and foods cook quickly. This is perfect for small portions like ing. Delicate foods or small items may call for a narrower or
thin steaks or chicken breasts. Depending upon the foods thinner spatula. Bigger items demand heavy-duty tools that
you are cooking, you may need to create a single even layer of won’t bend under the weight of the food. To make turning
coals beneath the entire cooking surface for a charcoal grill. foods easier, try using two spatulas for better control.
Indirect-heat grilling means that foods are placed on part Skewers may be bamboo, wood, or metal. Soak bamboo
of the grill close to but not directly over the heat source. The or wooden skewers in cool water so they won’t ignite as you
heat is less intense there, so foods that take longer to cook grill. Metal skewers don’t need any special treatment, but
(such as spareribs) or that might scorch before they finish be careful not to touch them when they are still hot from
cooking (pizza or vegetables) can finish cooking without the grill.
turning black. Techniques for setting up both gas and char- Hand racks can hold delicate foods like fish. Some racks

mi s e
coal grills for direct and indirect heating are described in have hinges and clamps so that you can close them around
greater detail in the sections that follow. the food. If you don’t have a hand rack, you can use two cool-
ing racks instead. Wear oven mitts and hold the racks to-

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gether, trapping the food between them, when you need to
pl ac e  |  
Grill and BBQ Tools
turn the food over.
A gleaming set of long-handled grilling tools makes grilling Grill pans and cast-iron skillets or griddles give you
easier and safer. There are a number of accessories you can greater flexibility when you grill. You can stir-fry foods in a
find, and more are being developed all the time. grill wok. Cast-iron skillets or griddles (the same ones you
Grill brush

Grill mop

Large tongs
with teeth for
gripping large
pieces of meat

Various-sized pastry brushes

Carving knife

Large carving fork

 Hand rack

Various-sized 
offset spatulas

Smaller 
carving forks

Small and large 

locking tongs
 use on your stove or ones made specifically for the grill) let Gas Grills
you prepare dishes like pancakes or eggs (see Buckwheat A gas grill may have a gas tank or it may be set up to hook di-
Flapjacks on page 176 or Hoe Cakes on page 151 for examples rectly to a gas line. The BTU rating (British thermal unit) is a
of this equipment). measure of how much gas can flow through the line.
Thermometers to check the food’s doneness are important Almost as important as the BTUs of a particular grill is the
to have on hand. You can use single-use thermometers or an number of burners. A good gas grill has at least two burn-
instant-read or infrared thermometer to check foods. Insert ers; large grills may have three or more. With more than one
the thermometer halfway into the food at its thickest part, burner, you can control the heat more effectively. By turn-
away from bones if there are any. ing one or more of the burners off after preheating the grill,
A carving knife and fork are essential to have for carving you can create the indirect heat necessary to prepare long-
larger pieces of grilled meat. Be sure to move the meat to a cooking foods like a whole turkey or spareribs or delicate
cutting board and let it rest before carving it into individual foods like breads or vegetables without charring the out-
portions. side of the food. Most gas grills have covers over the burners.
As the foods grill, their juices fall onto this cover and create
smoke to flavor the food as it cooks.
The lid for a gas grill should be easy to lift. Keeping the
lid closed helps the grill preheat quickly. It also maintains a
more even cooking temperature.
If your grill has wheels, be sure that they are sturdy
enough to roll over your deck or patio. The grill itself should
30" wide Viking gas grill be sturdy, so if you are shopping for a new grill, give it a shake.
It shouldn’t wobble or feel loose.
The grease catch should be easy to remove and replace. Be
certain that you empty the grease catch often. Otherwise, it
will attract unwanted critters.

Types of Grills Weber Genesis Gold gas grill

A good grill is one that will stand up to years of use, cooks

foods evenly, and is easy to clean and maintain. Look for
solid construction, heavy-gauge cooking grates, and easy-
to-clean surfaces on the interior and exterior of your grill. To
keep rain, snow, ice, and sun from ruining your grill, be sure
   |  g r i l l in g

to put a grill cover on it between uses.

Gas grills are convenient and clean. Charcoal grills pro-
duce a rich, smoky taste, but require a little more skill at fire-
building. The best grill for you depends upon how often you
like to grill and the amount of money you have to spend.
 You can find a number of accessories for a gas grill. Some
grills have separate burners so you can boil water for corn
or steam shellfish while you grill. Some have cutting boards,
Jumbo Joe® charcoal gril
built-in temperature gauges, adjustable racks, rotisserie
units, smokers, or storage. (Some even include refrigerated
storage compartments.)

Charcoal Grills

A charcoal grill consists of a base that holds the fire and a cook-
ing rack. The fuel (charcoal briquettes, hardwood chunks, or The lid for a charcoal grill helps you control the heat in
logs) sits on a grate so that enough oxygen can get to the fuel to the grill so that foods cook evenly. It also traps the richly ar-
help it burn. Some units have vents in the base as well as in the omatic smoke from the fire. Not all charcoal grills have a lid;
lid to encourage airflow. for instance, hibachis (sometimes known as braziers) are es-
sentially a cast-iron pan with short feet and a cooking grate.
You can tent foods with aluminum foil or a large domed lid
from a large pot, if you like.
There are as many bells and whistles available on high-
end charcoal grills as there are on high-end gas grills. Some
units have electric fire starters, built-in thermostats in the lid
to help you monitor how hot the grill is, or propane-fueled
side burners.

Weber Performer Smokers

charcoal grill 
You can get a good smoky flavor in grilled foods without a
with ignition
smoker, but if you enjoy real barbecue, a smoker is your best

To start a fire, open the vents in the grill to let the air in. Crum-

Building a Fire in a Charcoal Grill ple a few sheets of newspaper and place them on the fuel grate.

mis e
Add hardwood chips, briquettes, or kindling to the paper to make

A good fire burns evenly and lasts long enough to cook everything a mound, and set the paper on fire. Let it burn, but keep an eye on

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completely. While gas grills may take as little as 15 minutes to heat it. Fires at this stage can go out easily if there is too much or too lit-

up, a fire typically takes at least 35 to 45 minutes before it is ready tle air blowing on them. If you are using logs instead of briquettes or

for cooking. chunks, add them once the kindling has started to flame. pl ac e  |   
Lighter fluid and treated charcoal briquettes may be simpler to use, Let the fire burn without disturbing it. Add more wood or bri-

but they can leave a distinct flavor on foods. We strongly recommend quettes carefully when the flames start to die down until you have

avoiding lighter fluid. Never use gasoline or kerosene to start a fire. enough fuel to last for a cooking session.
 bet. Barbecued foods are cooked by a technique that is some-
times called “slow and low.” The cooking temperature is
kept intentionally low so that foods can cook over long pe-
riods of time. That gives less-tender cuts like spareribs and Weber Smokey Mountain

brisket plenty of opportunity to cook to a tender, luscious Cooker Smoker

consistency.
Use the same basic guidelines to select a smoker as you
would a grill: heavy construction, heavy-gauge metal (usu-
ally steel), a tight-fitting lid. In addition, smokers need vents
to control the amount of heat and smoke. A built-in tem-
perature gauge makes it possible to control the heat with-
out opening the lid too often. (The more you open the lid, the
more smoke is lost.)
There are two types of smokers: vertical water smokers one or more racks that are suspended above the water pan,
and horizontal dry smokers. and a lid contains the heat and the smoke.
These smokers are typically much smaller and less expen-
sive than other types of smokers.

horizontal dry (or pit-style) smokers

Weber Baby-Q A horizontal smoker looks more like a barrel that has been
laid on its side, cut in half to make a lid, and then set on legs.
These smokers are exactly what you would expect to find at a
barbecue contest.
There is a large chamber to hold the food as it grills and a
second, smaller chamber that holds the fuel. The heat and the
smoke from the smaller chamber travels into the larger cham-
ber, and the tight-fitting lid holds in the heat and the smoke.
vertical water smokers

The barrel of a vertical water smoker is shaped like a bullet.

opposite, left   The briquettes of a properly lit charcoal fire should
It is usually 2 to 3 feet tall and 18 inches in diameter. These
burn red in the center and have a coating of ash on the outside. The
smokers may have an electric or gas heat source located in
amount of ash on the briquettes directly correlates to the amount of
the bottom of the smoker; some smokers have a chamber
heat they are generating. The thinner the coating of ash, the hotter
where you build a fire from charcoal or wood. To get smoke,
the fire is. When the coals have an ash coating and are glowing red,
   |  g r il l i n g

wood chunks or chips are added to the heat source. A water

spread them in an even layer over the entire grate for direct-heat
pan is positioned above the heat source to maintain gentle,
cooking. If you want to cook foods with indirect head, push them to
indirect heat throughout the cooking time.
the side, leaving a space in the center of the fire.
It is important to add wood, water, or charcoal to the
smoker as foods cook, so look for some sort of access to the opposite, right   Move the charcoals to one side to create direct
chamber that houses the heat source. Vertical smokers have and indirect heat in your charcoal grill.
 back on a gas grill. If you are using a charcoal grill, put them
testing the temperature of your grill
out by squirting a mist of water from a spray bottle, but don’t
Some grills have built-in thermometers to make it easy to use this technique for a gas grill.
monitor how hot the grill is. If you don’t have such a feature To keep flames under control once you have had a flare-
on your grill, you can use a time-honored test: up, you may need to raise the grill rack, if your racks are ad-
Hold your hand, palm facing down, over the heat source justable. You can also spread out the coals so that there is a
just above the grill rack. Count how many seconds it takes little space between them.
before you have to take your hand away from the grill.
disposing of coals
• 2 seconds equals high heat
Hot coals can cause fires. Let the coals burn out and cool com-
• 3 seconds equals medium-high heat
pletely before you remove them from the grill. Use a metal
• 4 seconds equals medium heat
bucket to hold the ashes or wrap them in a double layer of
• 5 seconds equals medium-low heat
aluminum foil, and don’t dump the ashes in with trash that
• 6 seconds equals low heat
might catch on fire.

dealing with flare-ups

Grilling and BBQ Safety
If flames start to flare up from your burner or the coals while
you are grilling, take immediate steps to put out the flames. You may be concerned about keeping foods safe when you
Move foods away from the flames onto a cooler spot of the aren’t in your kitchen. Cooking outside means that you are far-
grill if possible. Often, the flames will burn out quickly. Once ther away from your refrigerator and your sink. Take steps to
they do, clean the grill rack well. be sure that you can keep everything clean and cold, includ-
If the there are just a few small flames but they are not ing your hands, while you are grilling. Open flames, hot burn-
burning out quickly, you can smother them by putting the lid ers, and combustible materials add to the potential dangers.
 Types of Wood for Grilling

You can choose hard wood chunks as a fuel source and chips to use as a flavoring. If you want to get a lot of smoke, soak chips in cold water be-

fore you add them to the fire. For a longer-lasting smoke bath, put the chips in an aluminum pan and set the pan directly into the coals or on

the side of one of the gas burners (under the grilling rack). In addition to the hard woods listed below, you can use other burnable items: herbs,

spices, and teas (bay leaves, rosemary, garlic, mint, orange or lemon peels, whole nutmeg, cinnamon sticks, tea leaves, among others. These

vary from spicy (bay leaves or garlic) to sweet, and delicate to mild. Generally, herbs and spices with higher oil content will provide stronger

flavoring. Soak branches and stems in water before adding to the fire. They burn quickly, so you may need to replenish often.

wood description good with

Hickory Pungent, smoky, baconlike flavor Pork, chicken, beef, wild game

Rich and more subtle than hickory, but similar in taste.

Pecan Pork, chicken, lamb, fish
Burns cool, so it’s ideal for very-low-heat smoking.

Sweeter, more delicate flavor than hickory. Tends to burn

Mesquite Most meats, especially beef; most vegetables.
hot, so use carefully.

Salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, other fish. Also

Alder Delicate flavor that enhances lighter meats
good with chicken and pork.

Forthright but pleasant flavor. Blends well with a variety of

Oak Beef (particularly brisket), poultry, pork
textures and flavors.

Mildly smoky, somewhat sweet flavor. Try mixing maple

Maple Poultry, vegetables, ham
with corncobs for grilling ham or bacon. (See below.)

Cherry Slightly sweet, fruity smoke flavor Poultry, game birds, pork

Apple Slightly sweet but denser, fruity, smoke flavor Beef, poultry, game birds, pork (particularly ham)

Peach or pear Slightly sweet, woodsy flavor Poultry, game birds, pork

Grape vines Aromatic, similar to fruit woods Turkey, chicken, beef

Wine and oak flavors. A flavorful novelty that smells won-

Wine barrel chips Beef, turkey, chicken, cheeses
derful, too.
   |  g r il l i n g

Sweet and smoky flavors. Use corncobs that have had the
Corncobs kernels cut away and break them into pieces. Mix corn cobs Beef, bacon, ham, or sausage
with hard woods like maple.

Seaweed Tangy and smoky flavors. (Wash and dry in sun before use.) Lobster, crab, shrimp, mussels, clams
 Don’t leave foods sitting out for more than two hours, and
food safety
even less time if the temperature is above 90°F. If you can cool
Keep foods either cold or hot. One way to be sure that your down the foods quickly and get them stored in the refriger-
food stays properly chilled while you man the grill is to put ator, they are still good to eat, but if they’ve gotten warm or
it into coolers. Be sure that there is plenty of ice or cooling been left out for more than 2 hours, discard the foods.
materials. (A single, large block of ice melts more slowly
personal safety
and helps keep foods cool longer.) Take foods directly from
the cooler to the grill. Never leave uncooked foods sitting The most common accidents that occur when people grill are
in the sun. burns, but cuts, scrapes, and even falls that result in broken
If you aren’t going to be close to the sink, bring a container bones or sprains are possible if you aren’t careful.
of hot soapy water, a container of plain water, and a clean cloth Of course, you’ll want to position the grill where it is on a
or sponge to clean off work areas, spatulas, or tongs as you stable, level surface, out of the way of traffic and away from
grill. Wash your hands, tools, and containers carefully and as outdoor activities. Any electrical cords should be positioned
often as needed. Let tools and containers air-dry when possi- away from traffic routes so that no one trips over them. Take
ble. If you are using a cutting board to carve grilled foods, be the following commonsense steps to keep yourself from get-
sure that it is thoroughly cleaned and sanitized, especially if ting hurt.
you used it to cut up raw foods previously. • Never leave the grill unattended.
Keep foods safe from the sun, bugs, wind, and dust when • Don’t wear long, loose, flowing clothes when you grill.
you are eating alfresco. Try to set up both the area for grilling • U
 se big oven or grill mitts to protect your hands when lifting
and the area for eating where your food and your guests will heavy items onto or off of the grill.
be protected. Domed covers can help keep bugs, leaves, and • Never lean over grills or charcoal fires when igniting them.
dirt from landing on your food. • Use long-handled utensils to turn foods on the grill.

Grilling and Health Concerns • Trim off excess fat.  Fat can melt onto the burner or coals and flare

up. Those flames leave sooty deposits on foods.

Recent stories about health and nutrition have noted that there ap- • Use marinades.  Some studies have shown that marinating foods

pears to be a connection between grilled foods and cancer. In fact, before grilling reduces the amount of potentially cancer-causing sub-

cooking protein-rich foods like meat, poultry, or seafood at very high stances on grilled foods. However, don’t use too much marinade. Be-

temperatures can be a concern. However, like most nutrition advice, fore grilling foods which have been marinated, let most of the mari-

the key is moderation. Be moderate not only in how often you eat nade drip away before placing the item on the grill. Most marinades

m i s e
grilled meats, but also in how dark or charred you let the meat get. A contain oils, and if too much drips onto the burner or coals, they are

little color is good; in fact, it is the whole point of grilling foods! Too just as likely to cause flare-ups as the fat from meats and poultry.

e n
much, though, is more than just a health concern; it is also a culi- • Use indirect heat to cook meats.  Start meats and other protein-rich

nary concern. Foods that cook until they are charred are bitter and foods over direct heat to help them develop a good color, then move

too dry to enjoy. them to a cooler part of the grill where flare-ups are less of a concern. pl ac e  |  
To minimize the buildup of carbon on meats, fish, and poultry as • Don’t eat charred or burned portions of grilled foods.

they grill, remember the following steps: • And, of course, keep the grill rack as clean as possible.
 • N
 ever move a grill when it is hot. Remember that grills stay water. Next, turn on the gas. If there are bubbles, you’ve got a
hot for a long time, even after the coals burn out or the gas is leak that must be fixed before you can use the grill again.
turned off.
Remember to check the tubes connecting propane tanks
• U
 se baking soda to control small grease flare-ups. Use a fire
to the grill frequently. There should be no holes or cracks. Use
extinguisher for any flame that doesn’t burn out quickly or
is too high to control with baking soda. A bucket of sand the same method described above to check for leaks.
and a hose are handy to put out flames if you don’t have an Venturi tubes (narrower sections of tube between two
extinguisher. wider tubes that function like a pump to draw gas from the
• I f you do get burned while you are grilling, soak the burn tank into the grill) can become clogged. Insects and spiders
in cool water, but don’t apply ice directly to a burn. The ice
are common culprits, since they like to build nests in there. If
could damage the tissue.
the tubes become blocked, the gas flow becomes uneven and
could cause an explosion. Consult your owner’s manual to
Grill Safety find out how to clean the tubes.

propane cylinders
Each year, nearly 4,000 fires that cause serious damage and
injury are attributed to outdoor grills. To avoid becoming a All propane cylinders manufactured since April 2002 are re-
statistic yourself, clean and maintain grills, propane tanks, quired to have overfill protection devices (OPD). You can iden-
electrical accessories, and cords properly. tify these cylinders by the triangular-shaped hand wheel.
Turn off the gas at the cylinder when you are done grilling.
cleaning and maintaining grills Completely close the valve. If you aren’t going to be grilling for
You should clean your grill rack after each grilling session. an extended period, disconnect and safely store the cylinder.
It’s a good idea to scrub the rack again before you start to grill Store propane cylinders outdoors; never store them in-
the next time, too. But, there’s more to cleaning your grill doors. Some communities may also have a regulation re-
than making sure there’s no buildup of debris on the rack. quiring that these cylinders not be stored on balconies that
Give your grill a thorough cleaning at least twice a year. are more than one floor above the ground.
Your owner’s manual will have detailed instructions for When you need to transport a cylinder in the car, be sure
cleaning your grill. Do not attempt to clean a grill when it is that the valve is tightly closed. Place the cylinder on the floor
hot. Once it is cool, brush or scrape away debris or buildup behind the passenger’s seat. Make sure it can’t roll around,
from the inside and outside surfaces of the grill, then wash and leave the windows rolled down for ventilation. If you
the inside and outside with clean cloths and soapy water. must put the cylinder in the trunk of the car, be sure that it
Rinse with clean water and let the grill dry completely. is well secured.
To keep gas grills working properly, check the gas fittings Be sure to keep the cylinders in an upright position. This
for leaks each time you connect or disconnect the gas. To is true whether you are storing the cylinders, using them, or
check for leaks, dab the connections with a mixture of soapy transporting them.
10  |   g r il l i n g
 m e at s

S
mok y, char r ed, a nd gratifying, grilled meats are ing meats successfully is to get enough fat, whether through
widely considered to be the ideal main course for meals the meat’s own natural marbling or the oils you add to the
from the grill. Today’s livestock are intentionally bred to be meat in the form of marinades or basting sauces, to counter-
leaner, a nod to our concern with healthy eating. Any chef act any potential dryness, but without adding so much that
will tell you, though, that fat equals flavor. The trick to grill- the oils make the fire flare up as you cook.

Albuquerque Grilled Pork Tenderloin with Grilled Beef Fajitas, 31

Beans and Greens Sauté, 14 Grilled Venison Chops with Sherry-Mustard Sauce, 32
Pulled Pork Barbecue Sandwich, 19 Pakistani-Style Lamb Patties, 34
Barbecued Spareribs with Apricot-Ancho Glaze, 20 Grilled Hamburgers with Guacamole and Chipotle
Jerked Pork Chops, 21 Pico de Gallo, 35

Guava-Glazed Baby Back Ribs, 22 grilled Lamb Chops with Artichoke and

Skewered Beef Fillet with Chimichurri Sauce, 23 tomato sauté, 36

Beef Strip Loin with Wild Mushroom Rub Spicy Lamb Kebabs with Pickled Grapes, 39

and Wild Mushroom Sauté, 24 Raznjici (Pork and Veal Skewers), 40

Beef Teriyaki, 27 Barbecued Veal Breast, 41

Bistecca alla Fiorentina (Grilled T-Bone Steak Berbere Grilled Leg of Lamb, 42
Tuscan-Style), 29
Grilling Temperatures and Times for Meats

Times listed are for medium doneness; cook slightly less for rare, slightly more for medium-well.

Beef steaks (porterhouse, T-bone, sirloin, New York,

¾ inch thick 4 to 5 minutes per side, medium direct heat
tenderloin)

1 inch thick 5 to 6 minutes per side, medium direct heat

8 to 9 minutes per side, start over high direct heat

1½ inches thick (2 minutes per side), finish with medium indirect
heat (6 to 7 minutes more per side)

Beef roasts (loin, sirloin, rib) 5 pounds 1½ to 2 hours total, indirect medium heat

Beef flank steak ¾ inch thick 7 to 8 minutes per side, high direct heat

Beef skirt or hanger steak ½ inch thick 3 to 4 minutes per side, high direct heat

Pork chops from rib, loin, or shoulder ¾ to 1 inch thick 5 to 6 minutes per side, medium direct heat

7 to 8 minutes per side, start over high direct heat

1½ inches thick (2 minutes per side), finish with medium indirect
heat (5 to 6 minutes more per side)

Lamb chops from rib, loin, or shoulder ¾ to 1 inch thick 4 to 6 minutes per side, medium direct heat

Pork tenderloin (whole) 10 to 12 minutes per side, indirect medium heat

Pork ribs (country-style, baby back, spareribs 3 pounds 1½ to 2 hours total, indirect medium heat

Pork or veal roasts (loin, sirloin, rib) 4 pounds 1¼ to 1½ hours total, indirect medium heat

Ground meat patties ¾ inch thick 4 to 5 minutes per side, direct medium heat

1 inch thick 5 to 6 minutes per side, direct medium heat

me ats  |  13
 a l b u q u e r q u e g r i l l e d p o r k t e n d e r l o in
with Beans and Greens Sauté

P
ork tenderloin cooks quickly over a brisk fire, but 3. While the grill is heating, make the mop: Simmer the
you can substitute other meats, as well as poultry and pomegranate juice in a small saucepan over high heat until
even some fish. it reduces by half. Add the molasses and sherry vinegar, stir
makes 6 servings well, and bring to a simmer. Remove the mop from the heat
and reserve 3 tbsp to drizzle on the pork after it is cooked.
3 lbs pork tenderloins
4. Brush the tenderloins with a little of the olive oil.
Albuquerque Dry Rub, as needed (page 16)
Place the tenderloins on the grill and cook until the meat
1 cup pomegranate juice is marked on the first side, about 3 minutes. Turn carefully
¼ cup molasses and brush the upper side of the tenderloins with some of
¼ cup sherry vinegar the mop. Turn the tenderloins again when the second side
Olive oil, as needed is marked, about 3 minutes, and brush with the mop once
Beans and Greens Sauté (page 17) again. Grill for another 8 to 9 minutes, covered, then turn
once more and brush with mop again. Finish grilling on the
1. Blot the tenderloins dry with paper towels. Sprinkle all second side, covered, until the pork is cooked, another 8 to
sides of the tenderloins evenly with some of the dry rub. Cover 9 minutes.
the tenderloins and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 12 hours. 5. Remove the tenderloins from the grill. Allow them to rest
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a for 5 to 10 minutes before slicing. Place slices of the tender-
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals loin on heated plates along with a serving of the Beans and
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread Greens Sauté. Drizzle the reserved mop over the pork slices
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. and serve.

left to right  Be sure to coat the tender-

loins evenly with the dry rub or the flavor

will be uneven; you can use gloves if nec-

essary to prevent your hands from getting

1 4  |  g r i l l i n g

stained by the dark red rub. Gently turn

the pork tenderloins when they are prop-

erly marked. Opposite, the Albuquerque

Grilled Pork Tenderloin is served with the

Beans and Greens Sauté (page 17).

 Albuquerque Dry Rub

T
his makes enough dry rub to flavor about 3 pounds of 1. Heat a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the
meat, fish, or poultry. We suggest starting with whole coriander and cumin seeds and toast, swirling the pan con-
spices for the best flavor, but you can always substitute stantly, until the seeds give off a rich aroma, about 1 minute.
ground spices if you prefer. Immediately transfer the seeds to a cool plate and allow to
makes ½ cup dry rub cool for a few minutes.
2. Transfer the seeds to a mortar and pestle or a spice
1 tbsp coriander seeds (or 2 tsp ground coriander)
grinder. Add the chili powder, onion and garlic powder, oreg-
1 tbsp cumin seeds (or 2 tsp ground cumin)
ano, salt, and pepper. Grind the spices to an even texture. The
6 tbsp chili powder rub is ready to use now, or you can transfer it to a jar, cover it
1 tbsp onion powder tightly, and keep it in a cool, dry cupboard or pantry for up to
2 tsp garlic powder 1 month.
2 tsp dried Mexican oregano
2 tsp salt
½ tsp black peppercorns (or 1 tsp ground pepper)

Selecting and Preparing

add a dry rub for flavor
Cuts of Meat for the Grill
Rub the mixture evenly over the meat, cover it, and let it sit in the re-

You’ve probably heard that the best meats for grilling are naturally frigerator for a few hours or even overnight. Shake off the excess be-

tender. Juicy steaks and chops from the loin or the rib are indeed fore you start to grill it. Otherwise, the rub could scorch. Once that

a good match for the intense dry heat of a grill. The beauty of a happens, your meat will take on an unpleasant, bitter flavor.

grill is that you can control the heat enough to make even tougher
to add moisture to meats, use an oil-based marinade
cuts a great choice, including veal breast, spareribs, or whole legs

of lamb. Put the meat and the marinade in a heavy-duty resealable bag, seal

it tightly, and let the meat marinate in the refrigerator. This method
select good-quality meats
keeps the meat evenly coated in marinade without your having to

Steaks should be a relatively consistent thickness. Trim any excess turn it.
1 6  |   g r il l i n g

fat, but try to leave a thin layer. While you don’t want so much fat When you take meats out of the marinade, scrape off the excess.

that it sputters and flares on the grill, a thin, even layer is necessary Too much oil on the meat will drip down onto the coals or burner.

to prevent the meat from losing moisture and flavor. The smoke from the oil could leave sooty deposits on the food.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
Beans and Greens Sauté
F F F F F F F F F F F
P
F F repare this savory sauté in a cast-iron skillet right
F F F F 1. Heat a large sauté pan over the hottest part of the fire or
F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F
time on the stovetop. If you can’t find beet greens, substitute
spinach, kale, escarole, collard greens, or turnip greens.
F F F F F F
on the grill while you grill the pork, or make it ahead of

F F F F F
a burner set at medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and heat
until the oil shimmers. Add the garlic and move the pan or
turn down the heat. Sauté the garlic, stirring frequently, until
F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 6 servings it is tender and aromatic, about 3 minutes.
2. Add the beet greens and cook, stirring and tossing
2 tbsp olive oil
briskly with a wooden spoon to coat the greens evenly with
F 2 tsp minced garlic
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
the oil. When the greens have cooked down and are a vivid
10 cups coarsely chopped beet greens green color, add the broth. Season with 1/2 tsp of the salt and a
½ cup chicken broth pinch of the pepper.
F 1 tsp salt, or to taste
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
3. Bring the broth to a simmer, then add the beans and
½ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste cook, stirring frequently, until the greens are fully wilted
2 cups cooked or canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed and the dish is very hot. Season to taste with the malt vine-
F 2 tsp malt vinegar, or to taste
F F F F F gar, salt, and pepper.
F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F
You can serve the Beans and Greens Sauté
F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
as an accompaniment to a variety of poul-

try, meats, and fish.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r il l i n g  |  17
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F FF F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 pulled pork barbecue sandwich

makes 8 servings ¼ cup brown sugar

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
6 lb pork butt
4 tsp paprika
1 tbsp salt
4 tsp chili powder
1 tsp ground black pepper
4 tsp dry mustard
1 cup Vinegar Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
1 tsp salt
1 cup Black Jack Barbecue Sauce (page 87)
¾ tsp ground cayenne pepper
8 sandwich buns, split and toasted
Coleslaw (recipe follows) Combine all ingredients. Whisk until thoroughly mixed. Serve
immediately or store in the refrigerator in a covered container
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-low; leave one burner off. for up to 3 weeks.
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
down until the coals are glowing red with a heavy coating of
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the Coleslaw
grill. Clean the cooking grate.
makes 8 servings
2. Season the pork butt with salt and pepper. Grill, cov-
ered, over indirect heat, turning every 15 to 20 minutes, until 6 tbsp sour cream
the meat is completely cooked and very tender, 21/2 to 3 hours. 6 tbsp mayonnaise
Baste the pork with the Vinegar Barbecue Sauce as necessary 3 tbsp cider vinegar
to keep the meat moistened. 2¼ tsp dry mustard
3. Remove the pork from the grill and allow it to cool slightly.
3 tbsp granulated sugar
When cool enough to handle, pull the pork into shreds. (This
1½ tsp celery seeds
can be done up to 2 days in advance.)
1½ tsp Tabasco sauce
4. Combine the pulled pork with the Black Jack Barbecue
Salt, to taste
Sauce in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Heat, stirring
Ground black pepper, to taste
gently, until the meat is very hot, about 10 minutes. Serve on
5 cups shredded green cabbage,
the toasted buns with the Coleslaw.
1 cup grated or shredded carrots

Vinegar Barbecue Sauce 1. Mix together the sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, mus-

me ats  |  1 9
tard, sugar, celery seeds, and Tabasco in a large bowl until
makes 4 cups
smooth. Season the mixture with salt and pepper to taste.
1C/d cups ketchup 2. Add the cabbage and carrots, and toss until evenly coated.
½ cup white vinegar Cover and refrigerate until needed.
¼ cup water
 barbecued spareribs
with Apricot-Ancho Glaze

A
n y of your favorite barbecue sauce recipes (or even 4. Bring the glaze to a simmer in a saucepan; reserve 2
bottled barbecue sauce) can make a great sparerib cups of the glaze (and keep warm) to pass with the spare-
dish, but we really like the sweet, tart, smoky taste and rich ribs. Brush the ribs with a light layer of the remaining barbe-
golden orange color of the apricot and ancho glaze paired cue glaze and continue to grill over indirect heat, turning the
with pork spareribs in this dish. You can also try this glaze ribs every 5 to 10 minutes and brushing with sauce after each
with poultry, rabbit, game, veal, and meaty fish like tuna. turn, until the ribs are very tender and a rich glaze has built
makes 8 servings up on the ribs, another 20 minutes.
5. Remove the pork ribs from the grill and cut into por-
3 tbsp paprika
tions. Serve on a heated platter or plates. Pass the reserved
½ tsp ground cayenne pepper
barbecue glaze on the side.
1½ tbsp packed brown sugar
¾ tsp dried thyme
4 tsp minced garlic Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Glaze
2¼ tsp salt
makes 4 cups
2¼ tsp ground black pepper
8 lb pork spareribs 6 strips bacon, chopped
4 cups Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Glaze (recipe follows) 1½ cups small-dice yellow onion
1 tbsp minced garlic
1. Make a rub by combining the paprika, cayenne, sugar, ¾ cup ketchup
thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper. Rub this mixture generously
¾ cup orange juice
and evenly over the pork ribs. Place the ribs in a pan, cover,
¾ cup packed dark brown sugar
and refrigerate for at least 4 and up to 24 hours before barbe-
B/d cup chopped dried apricots
cuing.
¼ cup malt vinegar
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
2 ancho chiles, diced
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
1 tsp sweet or hot paprika
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the 1 tsp dry mustard
2 0  |  g r il l i n g

grill. Clean the cooking grate. 1 tsp Tabasco sauce

3. Grill the pork ribs over direct heat, covered, until the ribs 1 tsp ground cayenne pepper
are browned on both sides, about 15 minutes per side. (If de- 2 tsp salt
sired, add wood chips to the grill, either directly onto the hot 1 tsp ground black pepper
coals or in a small aluminum pan over one of the burners.)
 1. Sauté the bacon in a large sauté pan over medium heat apricots are very soft, about 10 minutes. Taste the sauce and
until almost crisp, about 4 minutes. Add the onions and sauté season with additional salt and pepper, if needed.
until browned, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté 3. Transfer to a blender and purée until relatively smooth.
until aromatic, about 1 minute. The glaze is ready to use now, or it can be cooled and stored
2. Add all the remaining ingredients. Simmer until the in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.

jerked pork chops

J
erk is a popular type of barbecue in the Caribbean and 1. To make the jerk seasoning: Combine the scallions, olive
is most often associated with Jamaica. The seasonings in a oil, habaneros, thyme, cider vinegar, allspice, cinnamon, nut-
jerk blend include allspice along with the habanero or Scotch meg, sugar, salt, and pepper in a food processor and purée
bonnet chile. The jerk mixture should be like a coarse paste until a coarse paste forms.
that gets packed onto the meat. 2. Spread the jerk seasoning on the pork chops and mas-
makes 8 servings sage it into the meat (wear gloves to protect your hands).
Place in resealable bags and marinate in the refrigerator for
2 cups chopped scallions
at least 4 and up to 12 hours.
½ cup olive oil
3. Preheat a gas grill to high; leave one burner off. If you are
2 habanero chiles, stemmed and chopped using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until
2 tbsp dried thyme the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash.
2 tbsp cider vinegar Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the grill. Clean
1 tbsp ground allspice the cooking grate.
1 tbsp ground cinnamon 4. Remove the chops from the bag and brush off any excess
1½ tsp ground nutmeg marinade. Grill the chops over direct heat for 2 minutes on
1 tbsp granulated sugar each side to mark the chops. Move the chops to the cooler

m e ats  |   21
2 tsp salt side of the grill and continue to grill over medium indirect
1 tsp ground black pepper heat until the pork is completely cooked but still tender, an-
other 5 to 6 minutes per side.
8 boneless pork loin chops, about 1½ inches thick
5. Serve on a heated platter or plates.
 g u ava - g l a z e d b a b y b a c k r i b s

B
aby back ribs are meatier and less fatty than spare- spareribs. Brush the ribs with a light coating of the barbecue
ribs. They are sold in racks that may be whole, halved, sauce and continue to barbecue over indirect heat, turning
or quartered when you buy them. Keep an eye on these ribs the ribs every 5 minutes and brushing with sauce after each
as they cook, since the danger of overcooking is significant turn, until the ribs are very tender and a rich glaze has built
with baby back ribs. up on the ribs, another 30 to 35 minutes.
makes 8 servings 6. Remove the pork ribs from the grill and cut into por-
tions. Serve on a heated platter or plates. Pass the reserved
2½ cups water
barbecue sauce on the side.
1½ cups red wine vinegar
1½ cups chopped oregano leaves
1¼ cups chopped cilantro leaves Guava Barbecue Sauce
1 cup chopped yellow onion
makes 4 cups
8 garlic cloves, minced
2 tsp ground cumin 1½ cups guava marmalade
1½ tsp ground black pepper 1 cup water
8 lb pork baby back ribs ½ cup dry sherry wine
4 cups Guava Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) ¼ cup tomato paste
2 tbsp dry mustard
1. Make a marinade by puréeing the water, vinegar, oreg-
4 tsp molasses
ano, cilantro, onion, garlic, cumin, and pepper in a blender.
1 habanero chile, minced
2. Place the ribs in a large container and coat with the mari-
5 tsp minced garlic
nade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 24 and up to 36 hours.
1 tbsp ground cumin
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
2 tsp salt
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of 1 tsp ground black pepper

white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the ½ cup lime juice

grill. Clean the cooking grate.

4. Grill the pork ribs over indirect heat, covered, until the 1. Combine all of the ingredients except for the lime juice
ribs are browned on both sides, about 15 minutes per side. (If in a saucepan. Simmer the sauce until slightly thickened,
2 2  |  g r il l in g

desired, add wood chips to the grill, either directly onto the hot about 30 minutes.
coals or in a small aluminum pan over one of the burners.) 2. Remove from the heat and stir in the lime juice. The
5. Bring the barbecue sauce to a simmer in a saucepan; re- sauce is ready to use now, or it can be cooled and stored in a
serve 2 cups of the sauce (and keep warm) to pass with the covered container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
 skewered beef fillet
with Chimichurri Sauce

C
himichurri sauce is a ubiquitous oil-and-vinegar– 1. Soak the bamboo skewers in cool water for at least 30
based condiment from Argentina, where it is served minutes.
with grilled meats as well as a variety of other dishes. This 2. Sprinkle 1 tsp of the salt over the minced garlic and mash
fresh-tasting sauce is a nice alternative to traditional barbe- to a paste with the flat side of a chef’s knife.
cue sauces. 3. Transfer the garlic to a nonreactive bowl and add the red
makes 8 servings pepper, onion, parsley, oregano, tomato, jalapenos, water,
extra-virgin olive oil, and red wine vinegar. Mix well and re-
8 bamboo skewers, 8 inches long
frigerate for 1 hour to let the flavors blend.
2 tsp salt
4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
8 garlic cloves, minced grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
½ cup finely diced red pepper ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
¼ cup minced yellow onion an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
¼ cup minced parsley leaves 5. Trim the steaks of excess fat. Cut the steaks into strips
¼ cup minced oregano leaves about 11/2 inches wide and thread the strips onto the bamboo
½ cup finely diced tomato skewers. Season the meat with the remaining salt and pepper.
2 jalapeños, minced 6. Grill the beef to desired doneness, about 2 minutes per
¼ cup water side for medium-rare.
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 7. Serve the beef hot with the cold chimichurri sauce.

¼ cup red wine vinegar

4 strip steaks, ½ inch thick
½ tsp ground black pepper

me ats  |   2 3
 be e f s t r i p l o in w i t h w i l d m u s h ro o m rub
and Wild Mushroom Sauté

I
f tri-tip is available in your local meat market, try that 4. Allow the beef to rest for 10 minutes before slicing. Serve
cut instead of the strip loin shown here. The Wild Mush- the slices on heated plates or a platter with the Wild Mush-
room Rub pairs well with beef, veal, and game. Try it on fish, room Sauté.
like halibut or sea bass, as well.
makes 8 servings

Wild Mushroom Rub

3 lb boneless beef strip loin
½ cup Wild Mushroom Rub (recipe follows) makes ½ cup

¼ cup peanut oil

2 oz assorted dried mushrooms (about 2 cups)
Wild Mushroom Sauté (page 26)
1 tsp garlic powder
1 tsp onion powder
1. Clean and trim the strip loin. Rub the dry rub evenly 1 tsp paprika
over the entire surface of the meat; cover and refrigerate for
1 tsp dried thyme
at least 3 and up to 12 hours.
¼ tsp ground cumin
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
1 tsp salt
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
¼ tsp ground black pepper
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the
grill. Clean the cooking grate. 1. Grind the mushrooms in a spice grinder or blender to
3. Brush the beef with the oil. Grill the beef over indirect an even texture. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the garlic and
heat, covered, turning every 15 to 20 minutes, until the beef is onion powders, paprika, thyme, cumin, salt, and pepper.
medium-rare, about 1 hour. (If desired, add dampened wood 2. The rub is ready to use now, or you can transfer it to a jar,
chips to the grill, either directly onto hot coals or in a small cover it tightly, and keep it in a cool, dry cupboard or pantry
aluminum pan over one of the burners.) for up to 1 month.
2 4  |  g r il l i n g

The Beef Strip Loin with Wild Mushroom Rub and Wild Mushroom

Sauté is served here with Skillet Cornbread (page 150).

 Wild Mushroom Sauté

R
emember to cook the mushrooms in batches to achieve 1. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over high heat until smoking.
a proper golden brown color. Once you add the rest of the Add the mushrooms to the pan in batches and sauté until
ingredients, keep everything moving to prevent burning, or golden, about 5 to 7 minutes.
try reducing the fire to moderate heat. 2. Add the shallots, garlic, parsley, and butter; stir to blend,
makes 8 servings and sauté until aromatic and very hot, about 2 minutes more.
Season to taste with the salt and pepper.
¼ cup peanut oil
3. The mushroom sauté is ready to use now or it can be
2 lb assorted mushrooms, large-diced
cooled and stored in a covered container in the refrigerator
¼ cup minced shallots for up to 2 days.
2 tsp minced garlic
3 tbsp chopped parsley
2 tbsp butter
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp pepper

About Mushrooms

Mushrooms exist in thousands of varieties, ranging significantly in it for dinner. Contact local agricultural groups or even a community

size, shape, color, and flavor. For a long time, the only widely available college agricultural program to locate an expert who can help you

mushrooms were white mushrooms (also sold as button mushrooms identify your mushrooms.

or Parisian mushrooms). Today, more varieties are being successfully • Cultivated mushroom varieties include white mushrooms, as
farmed, which means that many so-called “wild” varieties are actu- well as portobello, cremini, shiitake, and oyster mushrooms.
ally farm-raised.
• Wild mushroom varieties include cèpes (porcini), chanterelles,
Europeans, especially those living in the eastern and northern
morels, truffles, and many other varieties.
parts of the continent, are inveterate mushroom hunters. It isn’t at
• Select mushrooms that are firm, without soft spots, blemishes,
all unusual to find whole families engaged in a hunt through the
or breaks in the cap or stem.
woods on a Sunday afternoon. Foraging for wild food used to be com-

mon in this country too, but if you aren’t familiar with the local flora • Keep mushrooms under refrigeration. Cover with lightly damp-

and fauna, it is probably safest to err on the side of caution. If you ened paper towels, not plastic wrap, to keep them fresher long.
2 6  |   g r il l i n g

aren’t sure about a wild mushroom’s safety, don’t sauté it and serve • Keep mushrooms as dry as possible until ready to cook.
 b e e f t e r i ya k i

T
eriyaki is a Japanese style of grilling. The word teri- a yeast (koji), and a Japanese liquor (sho-chu). It is a key in-
yaki comes from two Japanese words: teri, which means gredient in teriyaki sauce, where it adds a delicate note of
shiny or lustrous, and yaki, which means grill. The meat is cut sweetness and a touch of acidity. Good-quality mirin, sold
into thin strips and marinated. You could substitute molasses, as hon-mirin, is made according to traditional, and time-
maple syrup, or brown sugar for the honey in the marinade. consuming, techniques that result in a thickened, syrupy
makes 8 servings liquid with a wonderful aroma and taste that commands
a price comparable to that of a good quality sake. Cheaper
¾ cup soy sauce
varieties are available, but they won’t have the complex fla-
¾ cup peanut oil
vor of a good mirin.
¼ cup dry sherry wine
makes 1¼ cups
2 tbsp grated orange zest, optional
4 tsp honey 2 tbsp cornstarch

1 tbsp minced garlic 2 tbsp cold water

1 tbsp grated ginger ¾ cup chicken broth

8 beef tenderloin steaks, about ¾ inch thick B/d cup tamari sauce

1¼ cups Teriyaki Sauce (recipe follows) ¼ cup minced green onions

2 tbsp sake
1. Combine the soy sauce, peanut oil, sherry, orange zest (if 2 tbsp mirin (sweet rice wine)
using), honey, garlic, and ginger in a resealable bag. Add the 2 tbsp granulated sugar
tenderloin steaks and seal the bag, pressing out the air. Mari- 1 tbsp rice vinegar
nate the beef in the refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 8 hours. 1 tsp minced ginger
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a 1 tsp minced garlic
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread 1. Combine the cornstarch and the cold water, and stir
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. until smooth. Set aside.
3. Grill the steaks over direct heat until medium-rare, 2. Simmer the broth, tamari sauce, green onions, sake,
about 3 to 4 minutes on each side. Serve the beef at once on a mirin, sugar, rice vinegar, ginger, and garlic until the flavors
heated platter or plates. Pass the teriyaki sauce on the side. combine, about 15 minutes.
3. Stir the cornstarch mixture to recombine, and add it to
the simmering sauce a bit at a time, stirring continuously,
Teriyaki Sauce
m e ats  |   27
adding just enough to thicken the sauce so that it lightly
coats the back of a spoon. Keep the sauce warm until ready to

M
irin is a clear, amber-colored Japanese sweet rice serve. Or, cool the sauce and store it in a covered container in
wine made from fermented sweet rice (mochi-game), the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
 bistecca alla fiorentina
(Grilled T-Bone Steak Tuscan-Style)

A
final drizzle of good olive oil and a squirt of fresh 1. Preheat a gas grill to high; leave one burner off. If you are
lemon juice gives this steak its Florentine flavor. Each using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until
steak serves two. To carve the steaks, cut the meat from the the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash.
bone with the tip of your knife; it will separate easily and Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the grill. Clean
cleanly from the bones if you use short strokes and keep the the cooking grate.
blade as close to the bone as you can. Once you’ve cut the 2. Brush the steaks with a bit of the oil and season gener-
meat free, carve it into slices. ously with the garlic, salt, pepper, and rosemary.
makes 8 servings 3. Grill the steaks over direct heat until marked, about
2 minutes on each side. Move the steaks to the cooler part
4 T-bone steaks, 1½ inches thick
of the grill and continue to grill over indirect medium heat
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided use
until medium-rare, another 6 to 7 minutes on each side.
¼ cup minced garlic 4. Transfer the meat to a cutting board or a large platter.
4 tsp salt Drizzle each of the steaks with 2 tsp more olive oil and finish
2 tsp ground black pepper by sprinkling the steaks with lemon juice.
2 tsp minced rosemary leaves 5. Let the steaks rest for about 10 to 15 minutes before carv-
3 tbsp lemon juice ing into slices. Serve on a heated platter or plates.

The steak is carved, cut into slices, and then served with the bone

for an attractive presentation that makes it easy for people to serve

m e ats  |   29
themselves. The Bistecca alla Fiorentina is served here with Creamy

Polenta (see note in the recipe for Grilled Herbed Polenta, page 148).
 grilled beef fajitas

T
his recipe is easy to adjust to make into a cozy dinner 2. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
for two or for a large backyard party. grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
makes 8 servings ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
5 lb flank steak, ¾ inch thick
3. Grill the steaks for 7 to 8 minutes per side for medium, or
4 tsp salt
grill to desired doneness. Remove the steaks from the grill and
2¼ tsp ground black pepper allow them to cool. Cut the steaks into 1/4-inch-thick strips.
1½ cups lime juice 4. In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat.
3 tbsp minced garlic Sauté the peppers and onions for 5 to 7 minutes, or until they
¾ cup minced yellow onion just begin to soften. Add the steak and cook until just heated
2 tbsp olive oil through, about 2 to 3 minutes.
2 red peppers, cut into thin strips 5. Grill the tortillas until softened and warm, about 20 sec-
2 green peppers, cut into thin strips onds per side.
2 yellow peppers, cut into thin strips 6. Serve the fajita mixture with the tortillas and a variety of

½ red onion, sliced toppings, such as cheese, sour cream, Guacamole (page 35),
or Chipotle Pico de Gallo (page 72).
1 cup corn oil
16 corn or flour tortillas, 6 inches in diameter

1. Trim the meat to remove any visible fat. Combine the

salt, pepper, lime juice, garlic, and minced onion. Marinate
the flank steak for at least 2 and up to 24 hours.

m e ats  |   3 1
 grilled venison chops
with Sherry-Mustard Sauce

Y
ou may be able to find venison in specialty grocery duced, 3 to 4 minutes. Add the mustard and honey, and cook
stores or in a traditional butcher shop. Try emu or os- until aromatic, 30 to 40 seconds.
trich instead of venison, if you have a source for those meats. 2. Add the broth and heavy cream; simmer until reduced
makes 8 servings by half, about 10 minutes. Add the sherry wine and rosemary,
and continue to simmer until heated through. Add salt and
6 tbsp vegetable oil, or as needed
pepper to taste.
1½ cups minced green onions
3. The sauce is ready to serve now or it can be cooled and
6 tbsp minced shallots stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. (Bring the sauce to
¼ cup sherry vinegar a simmer over high heat before serving.)
¼ cup Dijon-style mustard 4. Preheat a gas grill to high; leave one burner off. If you are
8 tbsp honey using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until
2 cups chicken broth the coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash.
2 cups heavy cream Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the grill. Clean
½ cup sherry wine the cooking grate.
4 tsp chopped rosemary 5. Season the chops generously with salt and pepper and

Salt, as needed brush lightly with the remaining oil.

6. Grill the chops over high heat until well-colored, 3 min-
Ground black pepper, as needed
utes. Turn once and continue to cook over direct high heat
8 venison loin chops, 7 to 8 oz each
until browned, another 3 minutes. Move the chops to in-
direct medium heat, turning them as you move them. Fin-
1. To prepare the sherry-mustard sauce: Heat 4 tablespoons ish grilling the chops to the desired doneness, about 2 to 3
of the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the green minutes more per side (depending upon the thickness of the
onions and shallots; sauté, stirring frequently, until tender, chops, heat of grill, and desired doneness).
about 4 minutes. Add the sherry vinegar and cook until re- 7. Serve the chops on heated plates with the sauce.
32  |   g r il l i n g

Although we used venison loin chops, you can substitute venison rack

chops to make a dramatic presentation similar to rack of lamb. The

Grilled Venison Chops with Sherry-Mustard Sauce is served here with

the Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Pecan-Molasses Butter (page 147) and

Grilled Asparagus and Sweet Peppers (page 123).

 pa k i s t a n i - s t y l e l a m b pat t i e s

P
ine nuts, oregano, garlic, and lamb combine in these ture with the lamb, eggs, pine nuts, parsley, tahini, ginger,
savory patties for a delicious Middle Eastern–inspired cumin, coriander, fennel, salt, and pepper. Mix gently until
burger. Toast the pine nuts in a small, dry skillet over medium the ingredients are evenly blended.
heat. Swirl the pan while the pine nuts toast. As they heat up, 4. Shape the mixture into 8 patties about 4 inches in diam-
they’ll become shiny, indicating that they will quickly start to eter and 3/4 inch thick, and chill them in the refrigerator.
turn brown. As soon as the nuts are just slightly paler than you 5. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
like, pour them out of the pan into a cool bowl. charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
makes 8 servings are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
6 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs
6. Grill the patties over direct heat until medium, about 4
¼ cup cold water
to 5 minutes on each side.
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp minced yellow onion
1½ tsp minced garlic
Grinding Meats
2½ lb lean ground lamb
2 eggs, lightly beaten You may not find ground lamb in the meat case at your local market.

3 tbsp toasted pine nuts You can grind your own lamb and other meats, if you have a meat

3 tbsp chopped parsley grinder or grinding attachments for a stand mixer.

2 tbsp tahini Select a boneless roast from the shoulder or the leg and trim

away as much of the fat as you can. Since you need to cut the meat
2 tbsp grated ginger
into pieces before you can grind it, you can locate any pockets of fat
2 tbsp ground cumin
on the interior of the meat and cut them out too.
¾ tsp ground coriander
Cut larger pieces into thin strips or small cubes that will drop
¾ tsp ground fennel seeds
through the opening in the top of the grinder, and then chill the
1½ tsp salt
meat while you get the grinder ready.
¾ tsp ground black pepper
Be sure that all grinder pieces are very clean and chilled. (You

can put them in the freezer for a while or put them in a bowl filled

1. Soak the breadcrumbs in the water until well moistened, with ice water.) Put all the pieces together and set a clean, cold

about 2 minutes. Squeeze out any excess moisture. Transfer bowl under the opening on the grinder to catch the meat as it falls.
3 4  |   g r il l i n g

to a bowl. Drop the meat through the opening in the top with the grinder

2. Heat the oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the running, but don’t try to add too much at once. The strips or cubes

onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until translucent, about 4 should fall easily through the tube. Keep grinding until all of the

to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until aromatic, about 1 meat is finished.

minute. Remove from heat and transfer to a plate to cool. After you are done, take the grinder apart, wash it, and let all the

3. Combine the breadcrumbs and the onion-garlic mix- pieces dry thoroughly before putting it away.
 grilled hamburgers
with Guacamole and Chipotle Pico de Gallo

Y
ou can substitute jalapeño Jack cheese for the caciotta 4. Place the cheese on the burgers the last 2 minutes of
if it is unavailable in your neighborhood grocery store. grilling and allow it to melt. Place the burgers on the buns.
makes 8 servings 5. Serve the burgers dressed with the Pico de Gallo, Guaca-
mole, lettuce, tomato, and onion.
3 lb ground beef
6 tbsp dry panko (Japanese-style breadcrumbs)
2 tbsp salt Guacamole
1 tbsp ground black pepper
makes 2 cups
2 tsp ground cumin, optional
8 slices caciotta cheese ¼ cup small-dice red onion
8 hamburger buns or Kaiser rolls 3 ripe avocados, peeled and diced roughly
1 cup Chipotle Pico de Gallo (page 72) B/d cup small-dice plum tomatoes
1 cup Guacamole (recipe follows) 1 tbsp minced jalapeño pepper, or to taste
8 Boston lettuce leaves, optional 1 tbsp chopped cilantro
16 slices tomato, optional 3 tbsp lime juice
8 slices red onion (grilled, if desired), optional 1½ tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
3 dashes Tabasco
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread 1. Soak the red onion in cold water for 20 minutes; this will
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. mellow their flavor. Drain and rinse.
2. While the grill is heating, combine the ground beef with 2. Combine all the ingredients and mix well. Smash the av-
the breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, and cumin. Shape into 8 pat- ocados a little to form a rough paste as you mix it all together.
ties about 4 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick. Refrigerate until ready to use. Guacamole can be stored in a
3. Grill the beef until well marked, about 4 to 6 minutes. covered container in the refrigerator for up to 8 hours.
Flip the burgers over and grill until cooked through, about 4
minutes for medium, 6 minutes for medium-well.

m e ats   |  3 5
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g ri l l e d l a m b c h o p s
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
with Artichoke and Tomato Sauté

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F TF F F F F F F F F F F F
his recipe works for both loin and rib chops. To French 3. Drain the lamb chops and season with salt and pepper.
the rib chops, scrape the section of bone past the medal- 4. Grill the lamb chops over direct heat until medium,
lion of meat with the blade of a knife until the bone is clean. about 4 to 6 minutes on each side.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 8 servings 5. Serve the lamb chops on a heated platter over the Arti-
choke and Tomato Sauté.
6 tbsp olive oil

F 3 tbsp lemon juice

F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F 3 tbsp soy sauce

F
1 tbsp chopped thyme
F F F F F F
Artichoke and Tomato Sauté
F F F F
T
F 16 lamb chops, rib or loin, about 3 oz each, ¾ to 1 inch thick
F F F F F F F o cut zucchini into julienne, first cut 1/4-inch-thick
F F F F F
F F F
F
Salt, to taste

F
Ground black pepper, to taste
F
Artichoke and Tomato Sauté (recipe follows)
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
strips from the outside of the zucchini, leaving behind
the seeds. (You can discard this part of the zucchini without
feeling guilty; there really isn’t a lot of nutritional value to be
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
1. Combine the oil, lemon juice, soy sauce, and thyme.
Place the lamb chops on a platter and pour the marinade
F F F F F F F F F
makes 8 servings
F F F F F F F F F
found there.) Cut the strips into 2-inch-long pieces and then
cut the pieces into thin strips.

F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
over the chops. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator for
¼ cup olive oil
1 to 2 hours.
½ cup minced shallot
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
F F F F F F F F F
2 tsp minced garlic F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread 4 cups zucchini julienne

the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. ¾ cup diced tomato
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
3 6   |  g r il l i n g

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
8 sliced artichoke bottoms (see below) keep the artichoke from turning brown after you cut it. And then,

2¼ tsp chopped pepperoncini you can add the lemon to the pot when you cook the artichokes,

1½ tsp salt both to maintain a good color in the artichokes and flavor them.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
¾ tsp ground black pepper Use a heavy-duty chef’s knife to cut through the leaves about 2

inches from the top of the artichoke. This will expose the light col-

Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat; add the ored inner leaves. Use a paring knife or kitchen scissors to trim the
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
shallot and garlic, and sauté until aromatic, about 2 minutes. leaves at the base of the stem.

Add the zucchini, and continue to sauté until the zucchini (You can choose to cut the remaining leaves away now and discard

wilts and becomes tender, 5 to 6 minutes. Add the tomato them or trim the barbs from each leaf but leave them attached to the

F and artichoke bottoms and continue to sauté, stirring as nec-

F F F F F artichoke. If you leave them in place, you can cut them away after you
F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F
essary, until very hot, another 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in the pep-
peroncini and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once or
keep warm for up to 1 hour.
F F F F F F FF F F F F
simmer the artichoke and enjoy them with a dipping sauce.)

Once the bottoms are trimmed, use a serving spoon to scoop out
F
the tiny white or purple leaves at the center of the artichoke as well
F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Artichokes
F F F F F F F F F FF F F F
as the downy hair that covers the artichoke bottom.

F
Cook the artichoke bottoms in a pot of simmering water along
F
with a dash of lemon juice and salt to taste. Most artichokes will be
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
Artichoke bottoms are the meatiest part of the artichoke. You can tender after simmering 10 to 12 minutes, but very small artichokes

find them packed in brine in the canned goods aisle, or even in the won’t take as long, while bigger varieties will take longer. Test them

freezer section. But they are not difficult to prepare from fresh arti- for doneness the same way you would a potato; the tip of a knife
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
chokes and the difference in texture is worth the added steps. should slide into them easily.

Select artichokes with leaves that are tightly attached. The stem Drain the artichokes and use them in a recipe as directed, or

should look firm, with no big splits or cracks. Before you start cutting store them in a container, covered with some of the cooking liquid
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
your artichokes, cut a lemon in half. The acid in the lemon juice will and covered tightly, for up to 5 days.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
me ats  |   37
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 spicy lamb kebabs
with Pickled Grapes

T
he flavors in this recipe are largely inspired by Greek the grapes. Coat the meat evenly with the mixture. Cover and
cooking, but with the distinct influence of Asian cui- marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 12 hours.
sine as well, blending the refreshing bite of fresh herbs with 3. Remove the lamb from the refrigerator 30 minutes be-
the pungency of cinnamon and ginger, and the brilliant col- fore grilling. Soak the bamboo skewers in cool water for 30
ors of saffron and turmeric. minutes. Drain just before using.
makes 8 servings 4. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
3 lb boneless leg of lamb
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
5 tbsp minced garlic
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
¼ cup olive oil 5. While the grill is heating, thread 3 pieces of meat and 2
¼ cup lemon juice grapes on each skewer. Grill until medium-rare, 2 to 3 min-
4 tsp minced flat-leaf parsley utes on each side. Serve at once.
2 tbsp minced oregano leaves
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tsp minced ginger Pickled Grapes
2 tsp Spanish-style paprika
makes 2½ cups
2 tsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper 1½ cups granulated sugar

½ tsp ground turmeric ¾ cup white wine vinegar

½ tsp ground cayenne pepper 1 cinnamon stick

¼ tsp crushed saffron threads ¼ tsp salt

16 bamboo skewers 1¼ cups seedless green grapes (about 32 grapes)

32 Pickled Grapes (recipe follows) 1¼ cups seedless black grapes (about 32 grapes)

1. Trim the lamb and cut it into 1-inch cubes; you should 1. Combine the sugar, vinegar, cinnamon stick, and salt in
have about 48 pieces. a saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until the sugar has
2. Thoroughly combine all the remaining ingredients except completely dissolved, about 5 minutes.

m e ats  |  3 9
2. Pour the mixture over the grapes, and allow the grapes
to cool to room temperature. Refrigerate overnight, covered.
As a variation, try substituting other meats like pork, rabbit, or ven- The grapes are ready to use now or they can be stored in the
ison for the lamb, to create a sweet and slightly spicy meal that is refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
sure to intrigue your guests.
 raznjici
(Pork and Veal Skewers)

T
hese Eastern European skewers combine pork, veal, minutes. Turn the skewers over and grill about 3 to 4 minutes
onions, and dill. Grilled onions would be a perfect com- more. Brush the meat with the warm marinade as it grills.
panion, along with chunks of pumpernickel bread. Serve with the Dill Sauce.
makes 8 servings

8 bamboo skewers
Dill Sauce
1½ lb boneless veal top round
1½ lb boneless pork loin makes 8 servings

Salt, to taste
5 tbsp butter
Ground black pepper, to taste
6 tbsp all-purpose flour
6 tbsp thinly sliced garlic
5 cups chicken broth, hot
1 cup thinly sliced yellow onion
Salt, to taste
6 tbsp vegetable oil
Ground black pepper, to taste
6 tbsp lemon juice
¾ cup sour cream
2 tbsp chopped parsley
3 tbsp chopped dill
Dill Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Soak the bamboo skewers in cool water for 30 minutes. 1. Melt the butter in a large saucepan over low heat, then
2. Cut the veal and pork into 11/2-inch cubes, pat dry, and whisk in the flour. Cook over low heat, whisking constantly,
season with salt and pepper. Thread the meat onto the soaked until smooth and pale golden in color to make a blond roux.
bamboo skewers. 2. Add the hot broth to the roux and bring to a boil. Reduce
3. Combine the remaining ingredients except the Dill to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for about 45 minutes, or
Sauce. Pour the mixture over the meat. Cover and marinate as long as needed to make a smooth, flavorful velouté sauce.
for at least 3 hours or up to overnight in the refrigerator. Skim off any fat that rises to the top and adjust seasoning
4. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a with salt and pepper to taste throughout simmering time.
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals 3. Strain the velouté through a fine-mesh sieve and return to
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread low heat. Stir about 1 cup of the velouté into the sour cream and
4 0  |  g r il l i n g

the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. add it back into the sauce. Add the dill. Return to just below a
5. Allow excess marinade to drain from the meat before simmer; adjust seasoning to taste. Serve the sauce warm. If the
grilling; blot with paper towels if necessary. Reserve the mar- sauce is made in advance, it can be cooled and stored in a cov-
inade and boil in a saucepan for 3 minutes; keep warm. Place ered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Warm the
the meat on the grill, and grill undisturbed for about 3 to 4 sauce over low heat until it reaches a simmer before serving.
 barbecued veal breast

T
he veal breasts sold bone–in have about 5 rib bones, 6. Brush the veal breasts with an even layer of the Barbe-
with lots of meat. Once the veal breast is cooked, you cue Sauce, turn, and continue to grill over indirect heat. Brush
can cut the riblets away if you like. Cut between each rib with a light layer of the barbecue sauce and turn every 20 min-
down to the bone that connects all the ribs, and with the tip utes, continuing to grill over indirect heat until the veal is very
of your knife, cut the rib away. There’s a large nugget of meat tender and a rich glaze has built up on the veal breasts, an-
along the end opposite the tips of the ribs; pull or cut the meat other 2 to 21/2 hours.
away to enjoy now, or later on as a pulled veal sandwich. 7. Remove the veal breasts from the grill and cut or pull the
makes 8 servings meat from the bones. Pass any remaining Barbecue Sauce on
the side.
1 cup apple cider vinegar
1 cup apple cider or apple juice
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce Barbecue Sauce
2 tsp Tabasco sauce
makes 3 cups
¼ cup lightly packed brown sugar
4 tsp minced garlic 1C/d cups ketchup
2 tbsp salt ½ cup white vinegar
6 lb veal breasts, trimmed and silverskin removed ¼ cup water
3 cups Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows) ¼ cup packed brown sugar
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1. Combine all the ingredients except the veal and Barbe-
4½ tsp paprika
cue Sauce in a mixing bowl and whisk to blend.
4½ tsp chili powder
2. Place the veal breasts in a large pan and pour the mix-
4½ tsp dry mustard
ture over the meat. Let marinate in the refrigerator, covered,
1 tsp salt
for at least 8 and up to 24 hours.
¾ tsp ground cayenne pepper
3. Preheat a gas grill to low. Leave one burner off. If you
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down Combine all the ingredients in a mixing bowl. Whisk until
until the coals are glowing red with a very heavy coating of thoroughly mixed. Serve immediately or store in the refrig-
white ash. Push the coals to one side of the grill. Clean the erator for up to 3 weeks.
cooking grate.
4. Remove the veal breasts from the marinade, letting any

me ats  |   41
excess marinade run off. Pat the meat dry with paper towels.
5. Grill the veal breasts over indirect heat, covered, until
the veal is browned on both sides, turning the meat every 15
to 20 minutes, about 2 hours.
 berbere grilled leg of lamb

T
he cooking time suggested here should produce a paper towels and season with salt and pepper. Brush the top
nice rare doneness, not bloody. However, it is hard to with half of the olive oil, sprinkle with half of the garlic, and
gauge how fast things will cook over indirect heat, so it is im- spread with half of the spice paste. Turn the lamb over and
portant to use an accurate meat thermometer. repeat with the remaining oil, garlic, and spice paste.
makes 8 servings 2. Marinate the lamb, covered, in the refrigerator for at
least 6 and up to 12 hours.
1 leg of lamb, boneless roast, about 3 lb
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Leave one burner
1½ tsp salt
off. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
¾ tsp coarse-ground black pepper down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
¼ cup olive oil ing of white ash. Push the coals to one side of the grill. Clean
¼ cup slivered garlic the cooking grate.
½ cup Berbere Spice Paste (page 44) 4. Grill the lamb over direct heat until marked, about 3
Grilled Potato and Red Onion Fans (page 156) minutes on each side. Move the lamb to the cool side of the
Grilled Leeks (page 144) grill. Continue to cook, turning every 15 minutes, until de-
sired doneness is reached, about 1 hour and 10 minutes for
1. Unroll the leg of lamb and make cuts as necessary to medium-rare.
butterfly the leg (see note on page 44). It should be an even 5. Remove the lamb from the grill and allow it to rest at least
thickness throughout, about 11/2 to 13/4 inches. Blot dry with 10 minutes before slicing. Serve with the potatoes and leeks.
4 2  |  g r il l i n g

left to right  Evenly spread the Berbere Paste over the butterflied
lamb to ensure that the flavor of the marinade is evenly distributed.

The Berbere Grilled Leg of Lamb shown here is served with Grilled

Leeks (page 144) and Grilled Potato and Red Onion Fans (page 156).
 Berbere Spice Paste ¼ tsp grated nutmeg
¼ cup red wine vinegar
makes 2¾ cups
¼ cup vegetable oil

4 pequin chiles, seeds and stem removed 1 cup water, as needed

2 tsp cardamom seeds

1 tsp coriander seeds 1. Toast the pequin chiles, cardamom seeds, coriander

1 tsp cumin seeds seeds, cumin seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns
(whole), allspice berries, and cloves in a dry skillet until ar-
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
omatic, 4 minutes. Transfer to a cool bowl and let the spices
1 tsp black peppercorns
cool to room temperature.
¼ tsp allspice berries
2. Grind the whole spices and chiles in a food processor
¼ tsp whole cloves
until coarsely ground. Add the onion, garlic, paprika, cay-
1 cup coarsely chopped yellow onion
enne, ginger, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Process to a coarse,
2 tbsp garlic cloves
heavy paste.
2 tbsp Hungarian paprika 3. Add the vinegar and oil with the machine running. Add
1 tbsp cayenne the water gradually, stopping when you have a loose paste.
½ tsp ground ginger 4. The mixture is ready to use now or it can be transferred to
¼ tsp ground cinnamon a container and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks.

Butterflying Meats
When a butterfly opens its wings, it looks doubled in size. The idea surface. Holding a boning or filleting knife parallel to the work sur-

behind butterflying a cut of meat is to create an evenly thin cut face, make a horizontal slice into the meat. The cut should go from

with lots of surface area from a cut that is not naturally thin and the interior toward the outside edge of the roast. Continue cutting

flat in shape. just through the thicker portion. Stop cutting about ½ inch away

To butterfly a leg of lamb, unroll a boneless leg roast so that it lies from the edge of the meat to make a hinge.

flat, with the smooth side of the meat facing down. The rougher side, Open out the meat flat, just the way you would open a book. Press

the side that was next to the bone, should be facing up. the meat flat. Keep making cuts like this over the surface of the roast

You’ll see that some parts of the roast are thicker than others. Rest until you have a piece that has an even thickness. Pound the meat

your hand over that part of the roast, keeping it parallel to the cutting slightly to be sure that it cooks evenly on the grill.
4 4  |  g r il l i n g
 fish and seafood

F
inding a great source for perfectly fresh fish and sea- → Use a hand rack to hold the fish; as long as you’ve oiled the rack
food is the grill cook’s greatest challenge. Once you’ve well, the fish will be easier to handle. Hand racks are hinged so
located a reliable source, rely upon them to guide you to that they can close around the fish. They are perfect for delicate or
other types of fish and seafood you can try in these recipes. lean fish.
Try an unusual appetizer from Southeast Asia, a grilled lob-
ster dinner with Italian inspiration, or a Mexican favorite,
fish tacos. Planked salmon comes from the Pacific Northwest Seafood 101
and fish kebabs are paired with an Indian-style cilantro and
A fish can have a firm, meaty texture or a delicate, flaky one.
cashew chutney.
Its flavor can be mild or robust; often, the fattier the fish, the
Almost any fish can be successfully prepared on the grill,
more pronounced its flavor. The way fish swim, the water
as long as you take the proper steps to protect it from stick-
they swim in, and their diets all influence the flavor and tex-
ing or tearing. Most recipes call for one or more of the follow-
ture of their flesh. Being familiar with these distinctions is
ing steps:
useful when you want to substitute one type of fish for an-
→ Marinate the fish with an acid like lemon or lime juice, wine, or vin- other in a recipe or want to find a recipe for a type of fish that
egar; it helps to firm the flesh a little before the fish goes on the grill. is new to you.
Finfish have gills and fins. They live in oceans, ponds, riv-
→ Oil the fish liberally.
ers, and streams. Some species live in saltwater, others in
→ Leave the skin on if possible; you can always remove it before eat- fresh water. Round fish varieties include trout, bass, snapper,
ing, but some fish have a delicious skin that gets crisp and crunchy tuna, and salmon. The most popular flatfish varieties include
as it grills. flounder, sole, halibut, and turbot. Sharks, skate, monkfish,

Grilled Shrimp Paste on SugarCane with hoisin peanut sauce, 49 Pesce Spada Siciliana (Grilled Swordfish Sicilian-Style), 65

FireCracker Shrimp, 51 Grilled Marinated Swordfish Skewers, 66

Grilled Shrimp and Pineapple with Adobo de Achiote, 52 Fish Kebabs with Cilantro and Cashew Chutney, 67

Spicy Asian Grilled Shrimp and Marinated Vegetable Salad, 53 Grilled Mackerel with Thyme, 68

Grilled Baby Octopus with Coconut Rice, 55 grilled Bluefish with Creole Mustard Sauce, 69

Grilled Lobster with Broccoli Raab & Cannellini Beans Baja-style Fish Tacos with southwestern slaw, 70
with Pancetta, 56 Grilled Mahi-Mahi with Pineapple Chutney, 73
4 6   |   g r i l l in g

Seafood Grill with Tamarind Glaze, 58 Smoked Trout with Apple-Horseradish Cream, 74
Shore Dinner, 59 grilled Tuna with salsa verde, 77
Cedar-Planked Salmon with Huckleberry-Zinfandel Sauce, 60 Grilled Red Snapper with Marinated Jícama and
Salmon BLT, 63 Manchamantel Sauce, 79

Smoked Salmon, 63
and ray are cartilaginous fish, meaning they have cartilage flesh is affected by the temperature of the water where they are
instead of bones. harvested. Squid, octopus, and cuttlefish belong to a group of
Clams, mussels, oysters, and scallops are all bivalve mol- shellfish known as cephalopods. Instead of an exterior shell or
lusks, shellfish with two shells joined by a hinge. Clam and skeleton, they have an interior shell called a quill.
oyster varieties often carry the name of the area where they Today, many varieties of seafood, including catfish, trout,
are harvested. Mussel types include standard (or horse) mus- salmon, mussels, and oysters, are farmraised. Fish raised on
sels, pen shell, and New Zealand green lipped. The two main farms are usually of consistent size and quality, although
types of scallops are sea scallops and bay scallops. their flavor may be less pronounced than that of “wild” va-
Lobsters, crabs, crayfish, shrimp, and prawns are all crus- rieties. The jury is still out on the extent of the repercussions
taceans. They have jointed exterior skeletons or shells. There farm-raised fish have on the environment and the survival of
are both salt- and freshwater crustaceans. The texture of their wild species.

Grilling Temperatures and Times for Fish and Seafood

Times listed are for medium doneness, or 145°F; cook slightly less for meatier fish, like tuna or swordfish, if you prefer medium-rare.

Fish fillets or steaks ½ inch thick 2 to 3 minutes per side, direct high heat

Fish fillets or steaks 1 inch thick 4 to 5 minutes per side, direct high heat

Fish fillets or steaks 1½ inches thick 5 to 6 minutes per side, direct high heat

Whole fish, pan-dressed 1 pound 8 to 10 minutes per side, indirect medium heat

Whole fish, pan-dressed 2 pounds 10 to 12 minutes per side, indirect medium heat

Whole fish, pan-dressed 3 pounds 15 to 18 minutes per side, indirect medium heat

About 10 minutes over direct high heat, or until clam

Clams
shells open

fi sh
About 5 minutes over direct high heat, or until mus-
Mussels
sel shells open

a n d
About 4 minutes over direct high heat, or until oys-
Oysters

s e a fo od  |   47
ter shells open

Lobster 1½ to 2 pounds 10 to 12 minutes per side, indirect medium heat

Scallops 1 to 2 minutes per side, direct high heat

Shrimp 2 to 3 minutes per side, direct high heat

 grilled shrimp paste on sugarcane
with Hoisin Peanut Sauce

D
on’t let the long list of ingredients in this recipe put 16 pieces canned sugarcane (see note below)
you off. Part of the list includes a table salad, one of the 8 leaves red-leaf lettuce
features of a Vietnamese presentation. Unlike many Western 1 cup bean sprouts
salads, a table salad includes plenty of fresh herbs so your 1 cup European cucumber julienne, skin on
guests can flavor their food themselves at the table. 1 tbsp chopped mint
makes 8 servings
1 tbsp chopped cilantro

2 oz pork fatback 1 tbsp chopped Thai basil

1 tbsp roasted peanut oil 3 tbsp Scallion Oil (page 50)

¼ cup minced shallots 1¼ cups Hoisin Peanut Sauce (page 50)

12 oz shrimp (31/35 count), peeled, deveined, and chopped note: This recipe calls for canned sugarcane to cut into pieces that you
2 tbsp fish sauce will mold the shrimp paste around. Since the stalks have different sizes,
you may need to cut each piece into quarters, sixths, or eighths to make
1 tbsp granulated sugar
“skewers” that are about 1/4 inch thick.
1 tsp minced garlic
1 large egg left to right  Mold the shrimp paste around the sugarcane using
¼ tsp ground white pepper a little bit of pressure so that it adheres to the cane pieces. The
2 tbsp cornstarch shrimp paste should be opaque when it is properly steamed. Grilling
½ tsp baking powder the shrimp adds a great deal of flavor; it is important not to grill the
¼ cup thinly sliced scallions shrimp too long or it will become tough and dry.

fi sh
a n d
s e a fo od  |  4 9
 1. Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Boil the fatback until plate. Combine the herbs and sprinkle on top of the bean
white and firm, about 10 minutes. Drain and cool the fatback, sprouts and the cucumber. Drizzle the salads with the Scal-
then mince. lion Oil. Place 2 pieces of the grilled shrimp on top of each
2. Heat the peanut oil in a small pan over medium-high salad. Spoon the Hoisin Peanut Sauce over the shrimp pieces.
heat. Sweat the shallots in the oil until translucent, about 2 Serve immediately.
minutes. Transfer the fatback and shallots to a mixing bowl
and let cool to room temperature.
3. Add the shrimp, fish sauce, sugar, garlic, egg, pepper, Scallion Oil
cornstarch, and baking powder to the fatback mixture. Mix
makes 1 cup
well to coat the shrimp evenly with all of the ingredients.
4. Transfer the mixture to the bowl of a food processor. ½ cup vegetable oil
Pulse into a smooth paste, about 30 seconds. (Do not over- ½ cup thinly sliced scallions
mix or the paste will toughen.) Transfer the mixture to a bowl
and stir in the scallions. 1. Combine the oil and scallions in a small sauté pan and
5. Wet your hands, and form about 2 tbsp of the shrimp heat over medium flame until the oil begins to sizzle, about 1
paste into a ball. Flatten the paste until it is about 1/2 inch minute.
thick, and place a piece of sugarcane in the center. Wrap the 2. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature. The
paste around the cane, making the paste about 1 inch thick oil is ready to use now or it may be stored in the refrigerator
and leaving about 1/2 inch of exposed cane on both ends to for up to 3 days.
use for handles. Press the paste onto the cane so it sticks.
Lightly oil your hands and smooth the surface. Set aside on
an oiled plate. Finish molding all the paste onto the sugar- Hoisin Peanut Sauce
cane pieces.
makes 1¼ cups
6. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are ½ cup hoisin sauce
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the ¼ cup water
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. ¼ cup rice vinegar
7. Set the skewered shrimp paste in a steamer basket lined ¼ cup minced shallots
with lettuce leaves. Set over a pot of simmering water, cover,
1 tbsp Vietnamese chili-garlic paste
and steam the shrimp paste on the sugarcane until just
1 tbsp chopped roasted unsalted peanuts
cooked through and firm, 3 to 5 minutes. If unsure, break one
open and check the middle for doneness and color. 1. Combine the hoisin, water, rice vinegar, and shallots in
8. Place the steamed shrimp pieces on the grill over direct a small sauté pan and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce
5 0  |   g r i l l i n g

heat. Grill for 1 minute, then give each piece a quarter turn. heat to medium and simmer for 5 minutes, until the sauce
Grill for another minute. Flip each piece over and grill for an- darkens slightly and lightly coats the back of a spoon.
other 3 minutes, or until the shrimp is heated through and 2. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature.
there are ample grill marks. Stir in the chili-garlic paste and peanuts. The sauce is ready
9. To make the table salad: Arrange a lettuce leaf, a small to use now or it may be stored in a container in the refriger-
pile of bean sprouts, and a small pile of cucumber on each ator for up to 1 week.
 firecracker shrimp

W
e used pancetta in this recipe, but feel free to use 5. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and let any ex-
sliced bacon instead. cess drain off. Wrap a pancetta slice around each shrimp,
makes 6 servings overlapping the pancetta slightly. Thread the shrimp on the
skewers.
2 pounds shrimp (16/20 count)
6. Cook the shrimp until the pancetta begins to color and
12 bamboo skewers
the shrimp are cooked through, about 2 minutes per side.
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 7. Remove the cooked shrimp from the skewers and toss
2 tsp grated lemon zest with the lemon juice and the remaining parsley. Serve while
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper still warm.
2 tsp chopped thyme
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
B/d lb pancetta, sliced as thinly as possible
Juice of 1 lemon Peeling and Deveining Shrimp

1. Remove the shells from the shrimp, leaving on the part To peel shrimp, start from the belly side and peel away the legs along

that covers the tails, and devein. with the shell. Pull off the tail if desired, or leave it intact to serve as

2. Soak the skewers in cool water for about 30 minutes. a handle for shrimp to be eaten with the fingers.

3. Combine the olive oil, lemon zest, cayenne, thyme, and For shrimp that will be presented whole and peeled, you should

4 tsp of the chopped parsley in a bowl. Add the shrimp and remove the vein that runs along the back of the shrimp for a cleaner-

toss to coat all the shrimp evenly. Cover, and marinate in the tasting dish.

refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. To devein shrimp, lay the peeled shrimp on a work surface. With

4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal the curved outer edge of the shrimp facing your cutting hand, use a

grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- paring knife to make a shallow cut along the shrimp’s back. Use the

ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in tip of the knife to scrape out the gray or black vein, which is actually

an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. the shrimp’s intestinal tract.

fi sh
a n d
s e a fo od  |  51
 grilled shrimp and pineapple
with Adobo de Achiote

T
he achiote seeds used to make the marinade for the blender running and continue to blend until the mixture
this dish contribute a rich flavor that some describe is very smooth. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and set aside,
as earthy as well as a rusty reddish-orange color. This sauce, to allow the flavors to blend.
which combines the achiote seeds with vinegar and spices, is 3. Cut the peel off of the pineapple and cut the flesh into 1/2-
thought to have its origins in the Yucatán Pensisula. inch-thick slices. Core the pineapple slices and cut each slice
makes 8 servings into 8 wedges. There should be 48 wedges total.
4. Peel the onions and remove the core. Cut each onion into
16 bamboo skewers
1/2-inch-thick slices and cut each slice into 8 wedges. There
½ cup lime juice
should be 32 wedges total.
2 tbsp chopped garlic 5. Thread each skewer with 3 shrimp, 3 pineapples wedges,
2 tbsp achiote seeds and 2 red onion wedges. As you assemble the skewers, trans-
4 tsp cider vinegar fer them to a shallow pan. Once they are all assembled, pour
2 tsp allspice berries the achiote paste over them and turn to coat evenly. Marinate
2 tsp dried Mexican oregano in the refrigerator for at least 1 and up to 3 hours.
2 tsp salt 6. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
1½ tsp whole black peppercorns grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
C/d cup vegetable or olive oil ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
1 large pineapple an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
7. Place the skewers on the grill and cook on both sides
2 medium-sized red onions
until cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve
2¼ lb shrimp (21/25 count)
hot or at room temperature with the Guacamole and Pico de
2 cups Guacamole (page 35)
Gallo on the side.
2 cups Chipotle Pico de Gallo (page 72)

1. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes.

2. To make the achiote paste: Place the lime juice, garlic,
achiote seeds, vinegar, allspice, oregano, salt, and pepper-
5 2  |  g r il l in g

corns in a blender and purée until smooth. Add the oil with
 spicy asian grilled shrimp
and Marinated Vegetable Salad

Marinated Vegetable Salad

T
his dish adheres to the Asian principle of balanc-
ing all of the basic tastes. It is highly perfumed, almost

L
heady, with only a suggestion of heat from the ginger and ook for unsalted raw nuts at natural food stores. Re-
chili sauce. member to store any nuts you don’t use for this recipe
makes 6 servings in the freezer, where they’ll keep for up to 3 months; raw
nuts which are stored at room temperature can quickly be-
12 bamboo skewers
come rancid.
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
makes 6 servings
2 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp minced ginger 1½ cups grated carrot
1 tbsp chili sauce 1½ cups grated daikon radish
1 tbsp Thai fish sauce 2 tbsp minced pickled ginger
2 tsp five-spice powder ¼ cup vegetable oil
2 tsp dark sesame oil 1 tbsp olive oil
2½ lb shrimp (16/20 count), peeled and deveined 1 tbsp peanut oil
Marinated Vegetable Salad (recipe follows) 1½ tsp sesame oil
2 tbsp rice wine vinegar
1. Soak the skewers in cool water for about 30 minutes.
1 tsp soy sauce
2. Combine the vinegar, garlic, ginger, chili sauce, fish
1 tsp Thai fish sauce
sauce, five-spice powder, and sesame oil in a bowl. Add the
Pinch ground white pepper
shrimp and toss to coat all the shrimp evenly. Cover, and
marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 and up to 3 hours. Pinch cayenne pepper

3. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal 1 tbsp chopped unsalted roasted peanuts

fi sh
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- 1½ tsp toasted sesame seeds

ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in

a n d
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. Toss together the carrot, daikon radish, and ginger in a bowl.
4. Remove the shrimp from the marinade and let any ex- Combine the remaining ingredients in a separate bowl and

s e a fo od  |  53
cess drain off. Thread the shrimp onto the skewers. mix well. Pour over the carrot mixture, and toss to mix. Cover
5. Place the skewers on the grill and cook on both sides and refrigerate until ready to serve.
until cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Serve on
a bed of the Marinated Vegetable Salad.
 grilled baby octopus
with Coconut Rice

B
r aising the octopus gently before you grill it gives it a 1. To prepare the octopus: Heat the olive oil in a saucepot
unique texture. You can save the braising liquid to use over medium heat. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and
as the base for a seafood soup or stew. sweat, stirring occasionally, until tender and translucent,
makes 8 servings about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and sweat until aromatic,
about 1 minute. Add the octopus and continue to cook, turn-
octopus
ing, until the octopus is stiff on all sides, about 5 minutes.
2 tbsp olive oil
2. Add the white wine to deglaze the pan, and continue to
½ cup medium-dice yellow onion
simmer until the wine has reduced to 1/3 its original volume.
½ cup medium-dice carrot Add the water, tomato juice, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, salt,
¼ cup medium-dice celery and pepper. Braise the octopus over very low heat, uncovered,
1½ tsp minced garlic until tender, about 1 hour. Remove and discard the bay leaf
2 lb baby octopus and herb sprigs. Set aside the octopus in the braising liquid to
½ cup dry white wine cool until ready to grill.
1½ cups water 3. To make the marinade: Combine the oil, thyme, scal-
1 cup tomato juice lions, and garlic. Add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
4 thyme sprigs 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal

2 rosemary sprigs grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
2 bay leaves
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
1 tsp salt
5. Remove the octopus from the braising liquid and drain
1 tsp ground black pepper
well. Brush or roll the octopus in the marinade and grill until
marinade marked and very hot, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Serve the
octopus immediately with the Coconut Rice.

fi sh
½ cup olive oil
¼ cup thyme leaves
¼ cup thinly sliced scallions

a n d
1 tbsp minced garlic
Salt, to taste

s e a f o o d   |   55
Ground black pepper, to taste

Coconut Rice (page 57)

 grilled lobster
with Broccoli Raab & Cannellini Beans with Pancetta

T
his is an incredible meal. It has a really good ratio of 1. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal grill,
lobster to beans to greens, and the flavor is phenomenal. build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red
It is rich and earthy and hearty without being too filling. Peel- with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even
ing all of the lobsters is a little time-consuming for the cook bed. Clean the cooking grate.
but well worth the effort, since the juices from the lobster work 2. Brush the tail and claw meat with the olive oil and sea-
their way into the broccoli raab dish for even more flavor. son with salt and pepper.
makes 8 servings 3. Place the prepared lobsters on the grill, shell-side down.
Grill the lobsters about 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until the
Water, as needed
shell turns reddish-orange.
Salt, as needed
4. Remove the tail and the claw meat from the shells, and
8 lobsters, about 1½ lb each, prepared for grilling (see below) cut each tail into 1/2-inch-thick-slices. Set aside.
2 tbsp olive oil 5. Divide the Broccoli Raab & Cannelini Beans with Pan-
1 tsp ground black pepper cetta among 8 serving plates and sprinkle with the Parme-
Broccoli Raab & Cannellini Beans with Pancetta (opposite) san cheese. Place the tail and claw meat of each lobster atop
½ cup grated Parmesan the broccoli raab and bean mixture and serve.

Preparing Lobster for the Grill ing it just until the shell turns a bright color. This firms up the flesh

enough so that it will separate from the shell. If you try to pull the

Purchasing live lobster for cooking guarantees the best flavor and tex- flesh from a raw lobster, you will simply pull apart the flesh. Once the

ture. Lay a live lobster belly-side down on a work surface, head point- lobster is partially cooked, let it cool completely. Twist the tail away

ing toward your cutting hand. Insert the tip of a chef’s knife into the from the body. Squeeze the underside of the tail shell to crack it par-

base of its head to kill the lobster quickly, and pull the knife all the way tially and loosen it, then pull the tail meat away in one piece.

down through the shell, splitting the head in half. Turn the lobster 180 Stand the claw on the work surface with its “thumb” edge down.

degrees. Place the tip of the knife at the same point as your first cut, Use the heel of the knife to cut into the outside edge of each claw,

and then cut completely through the shell of the body and tail. without cutting through to the meat, then swivel the knife sharply
5 6   |  g r il l i n g

to the side to crack apart the claw shell. Remove the claw in one
removing the meat from a cooked lobster
piece by wiggling the meat as you pull it out, taking care to slip the

If a recipe calls for only the meat of a cooked lobster, you will need to “thumb” out slowly. Use a large knife or kitchen shears to cut through

partially cook the lobster by either grilling, broiling, boiling, or steam- the leg knuckles, then pull out the knuckle meat.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Beans with Pancetta
F F F
Broccoli Raab & Cannellini

F F F F F F F
Coconut Rice
F
makes 8 servings
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 8 servings ¼ cup butter

2 tbsp olive oil 1 tbsp minced garlic

F ¼ cup diced pancetta or bacon

F F F F F 2 tbsp minced ginger
F F F F F F F
F F
F F
2 tsp minced garlic F
½ cup minced yellow onion

2 bunches broccoli raab, trimmed

F F F F F F F F F F
3 cups long-grain white rice
2 cups coconut milk
4 cups water
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F
½ cup chicken or vegetable broth
1 tsp salt
F F F F F F
2 cups cooked or canned cannellini beans, drained and rinsed

F F F
1 tsp salt

F
½ tsp ground black pepper
1 cup golden raisins
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F
½ tsp ground black pepper

F F
1. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat.
F F F F F F F F
1 cup toasted, sliced almonds

F F F
1. Heat the butter in a saucepan. Add the garlic and ginger,
F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F
the pancetta is translucent, about 1 minute.
F
Add the pancetta or bacon and sauté until the fat renders and

F
2. Add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until golden
F F F F F F F F F F
and sauté until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and
sauté until the grains are coated with the butter and give off
a toasted aroma.
F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F
brown, about 5 to 6 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to
sauté until the garlic is aromatic, about 1 minute more.
3. Add the broccoli raab by handfuls, stirring and sautéing
F F F F F F F F F F F
2. Add the coconut milk, water, salt, and pepper. Bring to a
boil, reduce to a light simmer, and cover. Cook until the rice
is tender, about 18 minutes.
F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
until the leaves just wilt before adding more. Add the cannel- 3. Fluff the rice with a fork, add the raisins and almonds, and
lini beans and the broth. toss lightly to mix. Keep warm, covered, until ready to use.
4. Bring to a simmer and cook until the broccoli raab is
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
bright green and tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Season the mix-
ture with salt and pepper. Keep warm until ready to serve.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r i l l in g   |   5 7
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 seafood grill
with Tamarind Glaze

T
he tropical tamarind tree is valued for its plump, dark pepper flakes in a baking dish to make a marinade. Reserve 1
brown pods, which are filled with a sticky, stringy pulp cup to use as a dipping sauce.
peppered with large seeds. Tart and refreshing, with a more 2. Add the sea bass, shrimp, and scallops to the dish, and
complex astringency than that of citrus, tamarind pulp is used turn to coat all the seafood evenly. Cover, and refrigerate for
extensively in Indian and Southeast Asian cooking. Look for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.
jars of tamarind concentrate in Indian or Asian groceries. 3. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes to prevent
makes 8 servings them from scorching.
4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
1 cup tamarind concentrate
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
1 cup olive oil
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
½ cup white vinegar an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
½ cup fresh lime juice 5. Remove the seafood from the marinade and let the ex-
¼ cup honey cess drain off. Thread the shrimp and scallops alternately
2 tbsp Dijon mustard onto 8 of the skewers. Thread the pieces of sea bass on the re-
8 scallions, minced maining skewers.
¼ cup minced basil 6. Place the skewers and the clams on the grill. Grill the
2 tbsp minced garlic shrimp and scallops until the scallops are barely opaque and
2 tbsp toasted cumin seeds the shrimp are pink, turning once or as needed to mark them
1 tsp red pepper flakes evenly on all sides, about 2 to 3 minutes total. Grill the clams
until they open, 5 to 6 minutes, being careful to reserve their
2 lb sea bass or yellowtail fillets, cut into 2-inch cubes
juices when removing them from the grill. Discard any that
2 lb jumbo shrimp, peeled and deveined, tails on
do not open. Grill the sea bass skewers on the first side until
2 lb sea scallops
marked. Gently turn the fish over and continue cooking until
16 bamboo skewers
barely opaque, 5 to 6 minutes.
24 littleneck clams
7. Serve the grilled seafood with the reserved tamarind
dipping sauce.
1. Whisk together the tamarind, olive oil, vinegar, lime juice,
5 8   |   g r i l l in g

honey, mustard, scallions, basil, garlic, cumin seeds, and red

 shore dinner

W
e’ve substituted a steamer on the grill here, but 2. Melt the unsalted butter in the bottom of the steamer
kept the seaweed from the classic shore dinner. It over the grill. Add the onions and garlic, and cook until aro-
adds a special briny savor, but if you can’t find it, substitute matic. Add the broth, water, thyme, and bay leaves, and bring
lettuce leaves or simply omit altogether. to a boil.
makes 8 servings 3. Make a bed of seaweed on the bottom of the steaming
basket. Kill the lobsters by making a small incision in the
¼ cup unsalted butter
back of the shell where the chest and tail meet. Place the lob-
2 cups finely chopped yellow onions
sters on top of the seaweed and top them with the clams, zuc-
2 tsp minced garlic chini, and potatoes. Place the basket over the boiling broth.
4 cups chicken broth Cover the steamer and cook for 5 to 8 minutes.
2 cups water 4. While the first tier is cooking, arrange the corn, leeks,
4 thyme sprigs cod, mussels, and scallops on the steamer’s second tier. Add
4 small bay leaves the second tier to the steamer, cover, and continue to steam
4 handfuls fresh seaweed for another 5 minutes, or until the clams and mussels are
4 lobsters, 1¼ lb each open; the lobsters, cod, and scallops are opaque throughout;
32 littleneck clams, scrubbed and the vegetables are tender.
4 small zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into quarters 5. Remove the lobsters from the steamer and split in half.
Remove all the other food and arrange it in warmed casse-
24 red bliss potatoes, par-cooked
roles or serving bowls. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and
4 ears corn, shucked and halved crosswise
moisten with the broth. Serve with the lemon wedges and
4 leeks, split lengthwise
melted butter.
1½ lb cod fillet, cut into 8 pieces
20 mussels, scrubbed and debearded
8 sea scallops
Shore Dinners
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

fi sh
A shore dinner is traditionally cooked in a pit that has been dug in
Lemon wedges, for garnish the sand near the ocean. The hole is filled with driftwood that is set
¾ cup drawn butter on fire. After the fire is established, rocks are added to the pit to ab-

an d
sorb the heat. Finally, a layer of seaweed is set over the rocks as a

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium heat. If you are using a bed onto which the various ingredients are added: lobsters, clams,

s e a f ood  |  59
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals mussels, oysters, potatoes, corn, leeks, and zucchini. Then, another

are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread layer of seaweed, and finally, a heavy tarp over the pit to trap the

the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. heat and steam.
 cedar-planked salmon
with Huckleberry-Zinfandel Sauce

T
he wood adds a lot of flavor to fish as you cook it. For 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high heat. If you are using
variety, you can use hickory, mesquite, or even fruit a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the
tree wood, like apple or cherry. The planks don’t last forever, coals are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread
but you should be able to get more than one cooking session the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
from them. You may be able to find smaller, thinner planks 2. Clean, dry, and trim the salmon to remove any remain-
that are perfect for individual servings. The sauce we sug- ing belly bones or pin bones. Cut the salmon into 8 equal
gest here is a classic brown sauce finished with wild huck- pieces and then season with the salt and pepper.
leberries. If you want something a little simpler, try one of 3. Place 4 salmon fillets on each soaked cedar plank, and
the compound butters on pages 117–19 or the Scallion Oil on place the planks on the grill. Grill, covered, until just cooked
page 50. through, about 8 to 10 minutes.
makes 8 servings 4. Combine the Zinfandel Sauce with the huckleberries.
5. Serve the salmon with 1/4 cup of sauce per portion. Gar-
3 lb salmon fillet nish with the huckleberries, if desired.
1 tbsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper
Zinfandel Sauce
2 cedar planks, soaked overnight

T
2 cups Zinfandel Sauce (recipe follows) his is one instance when making your own broth
1 cup huckleberries from rich meaty beef or veal bones that you’ve roasted

left to right  Grill the salmon until it is

just cooked through; the plank should be

slightly charred. Be sure to take the time to

reduce the sauce properly; the velvety tex-

ture and rich flavor will reward your pa-

6 0   |   g r i l l in g

tience. Opposite, the Cedar-Planked Salmon

with Huckleberry-Zinfandel Sauce is served

here with Grilled Belgian Endive (page 133).

 beforehand makes a world of difference. Most canned broths 1 garlic clove, peeled and left whole
are too salty once you’ve reduced them to a sauce consis- Salt, to taste
tency. The quality of the wine is paramount to the flavor of Ground black pepper, to taste
the sauce, too, so don’t skimp.
makes 2 cups 1. Heat the oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat.
Add the carrots and onions and sauté until the onions are
1 tbsp vegetable oil
golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the celery and continue
½ cup medium-dice carrot
to sauté until the celery is tender, another 8 minutes.
½ cup medium-dice yellow onion 2. Immediately stir in the tomato paste and cook until the
¼ cup medium-dice celery mixture takes on a rust color, about 4 minutes.
1 tbsp tomato paste 3. Deglaze the pan with the wine, and simmer until re-
1½ cups Zinfandel wine duced by half.
8 cups beef broth 4. Add the broth, bay leaf, parsley stems, thyme, and gar-
1 bay leaf lic, and simmer until the sauce is just thick enough to lightly
6 parsley stems coat the back of a spoon. Add salt and pepper to taste. Keep
1 thyme sprig warm until ready to use.

Filleting a Round Fish

A filleting or boning knife with a flexible blade is ideal for the delicate to keep the fish stable. Keeping the knife parallel to the work sur-

work of filleting fish. Place the fish on a work surface with its back to- face, run the blade down the entire length of the fish underneath

ward you. Make a cut behind the head and gills down to the bone, an- the bones. The knife’s cutting edge should be angled upward very

gling the knife away from the body, but do not sever the head. slightly to cut as much flesh from bone as possible.

cutting the first fillet trimming the fillets

Without lifting the knife, angle it so that the blade is parallel to the Remove the belly bones by making smooth strokes against the bones

work surface and the cutting edge is pointing toward the fish’s tail. to cut them away cleanly. Trim away excess fat only on the belly edge

Hold the knife handle lower than the blade, to remove as much flesh of the fillets. Cut away the remnants of the backbone by running the

from the bone as possible. Run the knife down the length of the fish, blade just underneath the line of the backbone, lifting it up and away

under the flesh, to cut a fillet. Press the knife against the bones as from the fillet as you cut.
6 2  |   g r il l i n g

you slice and do not saw back and forth. Remove the fillet from the
removing the pin bones
bones and place skin-side down.

As you look at the fillet, you’ll see a midline running its length. To lo-
removing the backbone
cate the pin bones, run a fingertip down the length of the fillets to

Without turning the fish over, insert the blade just underneath the one side of the midline. Use tweezers or needlenose pliers to pull the

backbone. Lay your guiding hand flat on top of the bone structure pin bones out, working with the grain to avoid tearing the flesh.
 salmon blt s m o k e d s a l m on

T A
his variation of a classic BLT pairs grilled salmon lthough imported smoked salmon carries a dis-
with a rich sauce punctuated with briny, salty ca- tinct cachet, there are many advantages to produc-
pers. If you have the grill on the night before, you can grill ing your own. With experience you can learn to control the
the salmon ahead of time, but be certain you chill the fish subtleties and create a signature smoked salmon that simply
quickly and keep it in the refrigerator until you are ready to can’t be found in a store.
assemble the sandwiches. Choose bread that is firm enough makes 12 servings

to hold up to toasting. Rye is a great choice with salmon.

1 salmon fillet, skin on, about 3 lb
makes 8 servings
1½ cups salt
1 cup mayonnaise ½ cup granulated sugar
2¼ tsp chopped capers 2 tsp onion powder
Salt, to taste ¾ tsp ground cloves
Ground black pepper, to taste ¾ tsp ground or crushed bay leaf
¼ cup olive oil ¾ tsp ground mace
2 lb salmon fillet ¾ tsp ground allspice
16 slices bread (whole wheat, rye, or peasant style), toasted
16 leaves green leaf lettuce 1. Remove the pin bones from the salmon and center it
24 strips bacon, cooked until crisp skin-side down on a large piece of cheesecloth.
24 slices tomato (about 4 beefsteak tomatoes) 2. Mix together the remaining ingredients thoroughly and
pack evenly over the salmon. (The layer should be slightly
1. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal thinner where the fillet tapers to the tail.)
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- 3. Wrap the salmon loosely in the cheesecloth and place it
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in on a rack in a pan. Cure the salmon in the refrigerator for at
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. least 12 and up to 24 hours.
2. Stir together the mayonnaise and capers. Season with 4. Gently rinse off the cure with cool water and blot dry.
salt and pepper. Air-dry uncovered on a rack in the refrigerator overnight to

f is h
3. Season the oil generously with salt and pepper. form a dry skin.
4. Cut the salmon into 8 equal pieces. Brush the salmon 5. Preheat a smoker to 225° to 250° F following the manufac-

a n d
pieces with the seasoned oil. Grill the salmon until cooked turer’s instructions. Place the salmon on a rack in the smoker,
through, about 2 minutes on each side. cover, and smoke until the salmon is firm to the touch and has

s e a f ood  |   63
5. Spread the caper mayonnaise on the toasted bread. a rich golden color, about 2 hours.
Place 1 lettuce leaf and 1 piece grilled salmon on a slice of
toast. Layer it with a second lettuce leaf, 3 bacon strips, and 3
tomato slices. Top with a slice of toast. Secure the sandwich
with long toothpicks and cut in half. Assemble the remaining
sandwiches in the same manner.
 pesce spada siciliana
(Grilled Swordfish Sicilian-Style)

Sicililana Sauce
T
he swordfish in this recipe could easily be replaced
with halibut or sea bass. You want to use a meaty, firm
makes 3 cups
fish that will hold up well when grilled.

I
makes 6 servings f you can’t find olives stuffed with chiles at your local
grocer, check at an Italian deli; they may have freshly
½ cup olive oil
stuffed olives. This sauce also goes well with chicken or veal.
Juice of 2 lemons
3 tbsp chopped capers B/d cup olive oil

3 tbsp chopped oregano 1 cup minced yellow onion

6 swordfish steaks, 6 oz each 3 tbsp chopped capers

3 cups Siciliana Sauce (recipe follows) 6 anchovy fillets

½ cup sliced almonds, toasted 1 tbsp minced garlic

Couscous with Almonds and Raisins (page 66) 3 pints cherry tomatoes, hulled
½ cup olives stuffed with chiles
1. Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, capers, and oregano to 3 tbsp chopped oregano
make a marinade. Clean and dry the steaks. Place the sword- ½ tsp salt
fish steaks in a shallow pan and pour the marinade over them. ¼ tsp black pepper
Turn the steaks to coat them evenly. Let marinate in the refrig-
erator for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours. 1. Heat the olive oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the
2. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal onions, capers, anchovy fillets, and garlic; sauté, stirring fre-
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- quently, until the onions are a very light golden brown, about
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in 8 to 10 minutes.
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 2. Add the tomatoes and continue to sauté, tossing fre-

f i s h
3. Grill the swordfish for about 4 minutes per side, or until quently, until the tomatoes are very soft, about 10 minutes.
cooked through. Transfer to a warm platter, top with the Si- 3. Add the olives, oregano, salt, and pepper; sauté for an-

a n d
ciliana Sauce, and garnish with the sliced almonds. Serve on other 2 to 3 minutes. Adjust seasonings to taste with salt and
a bed of the Couscous with Almonds and Raisins. pepper if necessary. Keep warm until ready to use.

s e af oo d  |   65
The Pesce Spada Siciliana is served on a bed of the couscous along

with Grilled Artichokes with Hazlenut Romesco Sauce (page 124).

 Couscous with Almonds 1. Place the raisins in a small bowl and add enough boiling

and Raisins water to cover them. Let the raisins sit in the water until they
plump and soften, about 5 to 7 minutes.
makes 6 servings 2. Bring the chicken broth to a boil in a large saucepan and
add the olive oil, salt, and pepper.
1 cup raisins
3. Stir in the couscous, making sure that all of it is wet.
2 cups boiling water
Cover and set the saucepan aside in a warm place until the
3 cups chicken broth
couscous is tender, 15 to 20 minutes.
2 tbsp olive oil
4. Stir in the raisins, toasted almonds or pine nuts, and
1 tbsp salt
parsley. Drizzle the extra-virgin olive oil over the top.
1½ tsp ground black pepper
2 cups couscous
1 cup toasted almonds or pine nuts
¼ cup chopped parsley
3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

g r i l l e d m a r i n at e d s w o r d f i s h s k e w e rs

T
his Greek-inspired skewer of swordfish features a 1. Combine the lemon juice, garlic, extra-virgin olive oil,
healthy amount of garlic. Be sure to slice it just before and oregano to make a marinade. Add the swordfish to the
making the marinade for the best flavor. marinade and stir gently to coat. Let marinate in the refriger-
makes 8 servings ator for 30 minutes.
2. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes.
1 cup lemon juice
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
3 tbsp sliced garlic
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
C/d cup extra-virgin olive oil are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
1 tbsp dried oregano the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
3½ lb swordfish, boneless and skinless, cut into 1¼-inch cubes 4. Wipe excess marinade from the swordfish and thread
16 bamboo skewers onto the skewers. Season to taste with salt. Grill the sword-
6 6   |  g r i l l i n g

1 tsp salt fish until the flesh is opaque and firm, about 4 minutes per
side. Serve immediately.
 fish kebabs
with Cilantro and Cashew Chutney

T
his is a magnificent dish. The fish picks up a lot of fla- 3. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes.
vor from the marinade, which also makes it very ten- 4. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
der. The Cilantro and Cashew Chutney packs an incredible charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
burst of flavor and texture. are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
makes 8 servings the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
5. Remove the fish from marinade and thread onto the
1 cup whole-milk yogurt
skewers. Grill the kebabs until cooked through, about 2 min-
½ cup peanut butter
utes per side (8 minutes total). Serve with the Cilantro and
1 jalapeño, minced Cashew Chutney.
1 tbsp thyme leaves
1 tbsp ground fennel seeds
1 tbsp ground white pepper Cilantro and Cashew Chutney
½ tsp salt
makes 1- cups
3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp minced ginger 1 bunch cilantro, stems removed
2 tsp minced garlic ½ cup unsalted cashews
3 lb mahi-mahi or swordfish, cut into 1-inch cubes 1 tbsp lemon juice
16 bamboo skewers ½ tsp ground cumin
1½ cups Cilantro and Cashew Chutney (recipe follows) 1 jalapeño, halved, seeds and stem removed
1 tsp salt
1 tsp pepper
1. Mix together the yogurt, peanut butter, jalapeño, thyme,
¾ cup whole-milk yogurt, or more as needed
fennel, pepper, salt, 2 tbsp of the lemon juice, the ginger, and

fi sh
garlic in a bowl to make a marinade.
2. Rinse the fish and dry the cubes well with a paper towel. Combine all the ingredients in a blender and purée until

a n d
Sprinkle the remaining lemon juice over the fish cubes and smooth. Add more yogurt if necessary to facilitate blending.
let stand for 15 minutes. Remove any excess moisture and Adjust the seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Refriger-

s e a fo od  |   67
place them in the marinade. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour ate the chutney until needed.
and up to 12 hours.
 grilled mackerel with thyme

M
ackerel is a moderately fatty fish with a distinct fla- 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
vor. It picks up hints of smokiness from the grill read- coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
ily, so we’ve kept seasonings simple here to let the fish shine. glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
makes 6 servings coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Combine the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and 1 tbsp of the
2 tbsp lemon juice
oil. Place 2 thyme sprigs in the cavity of each fish. Brush the
4 tsp salt
lemon juice mixture over the inside and outside of each fish.
2 tsp ground black pepper Brush the outside of the fish with some of the remaining oil.
B/d cup vegetable oil (Reserve any excess oil to brush the fish as it grills if needed.)
12 thyme sprigs 3. Grill the fish over direct heat, turning as necessary, until
6 pan-dressed Spanish mackerel, 14 oz each cooked through, about 6 to 8 minutes per side.
1 lemon, cut into wedges 4. Serve the mackerel at once on a heated platter or indi-
Grilled Asparagus and Sweet Peppers (page 123) vidual plates with the lemon wedges and the Grilled Aspara-
gus and Sweet Peppers.

Serving Oily-fleshed Fish

Fish like mackerel, tuna, herring, sardines, and salmon have a rich be great partners. If you are interested in a white wine, look for wines

texture, due in large part to the oils they contain. Oily fish is a great that are high in acid. Some suggestions include sauvignon blanc, es-

source for a beneficial type of oil, known as omega-3s. You shouldn’t pecially those from the Loire Valley in France and from New Zealand.

shy away from these fish. As long as you keep your servings moder- Grüner Veltliner and Rieslings from Austria and Germany are a great

ate, most adults can safely enjoy a meal or two each week that fea- match for the rich flavors and textures of these fish. You might also

tures salmon or other oily fish without worry. try a white Bordeaux or a crisp rosé from France. The deep flavors

When you grill these luscious fish, you have plenty of options from the grill may inspire you to try a red wine with your fish such as

when it comes to a good wine to serve. Both white and red wines can Pinot Noir or Beaujolais.
6 8   |  g r il l i n g
 g ri l l e d b l u e f i s h
with Creole Mustard Sauce

O
ther fish, including salmon, snapper, grouper, or 1 tbsp minced shallots
kingfish would all be good substitutes for the blue- ½ cup cider vinegar
fish in this recipe. Or ask your fishmonger to suggest a meaty, 1½ tsp cracked black peppercorns
moderately oily fish. You need a flavorful fish to stand up to 1 bay leaf
the mustard sauce. 1½ cups dry white wine
makes 8 servings
½ cup reduced heavy cream (see below)

3 lb bluefish steaks, 6 oz each 1¼ lb butter, softened

Vegetable oil, as needed 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Salt, to taste 1 tbsp Creole mustard

Ground black pepper, to taste 1 tbsp mild mustard

2 cups Creole Mustard Sauce (recipe follows)

1. Combine the shallots, vinegar, peppercorns, bay leaf,

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a and wine in a small saucepan over medium-high heat. Re-
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals duce the mixture to 1/2 cup.
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread 2. Add the heavy cream and reduce the mixture by half.
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve and return it to
2. Brush the fish with the oil and season with salt and pep- the heat.
per. Allow any excess to drain away before placing the fish in 3. Whisk in the butter gradually over low heat. Stir in the
a hand rack. mustards. Keep warm until needed.
3. Place the hand rack on the grill. Grill undisturbed for
about 2 minutes. Turn the fish over and cook until the flesh is
opaque and firm, about 2 to 4 minutes more.

f i s h
4. Serve at once with the Creole Mustard Sauce.
Reducing Heavy Cream

a n d
Reduced heavy cream has a thick consistency and a deeper yellow

Creole Mustard Sauce than cream straight from the carton. To reduce heavy cream, pour

s e a f ood  |  6 9
the cream into a heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a simmer

T
his sauce features three different kinds of mustard for over medium heat. Turn the heat down as soon as the cream reaches

a complex flavor, but if you don’t have all three mus- a simmer to keep it from boiling over. Continue simmering until the

tards in your cupboard, feel free to substitute whatever type cream is reduced to half its original volume.

of good mustard you have on hand.

makes 2 cups
 baja-style fish tacos
with Southwestern Slaw

P
ut the ingredients for this classic fish taco out on the 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
table and let your family and friends build their own. The charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
combination of fish and coleslaw is heady and robust, a per- are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
fect match to the rich taste of the pico de gallo and the lime- the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
scented Mexican crema. If you cannot find Mexican sour 2. Cut the mahi-mahi into 16 equal slices.
cream at the store, substitute regular sour cream. Mexican 3. Combine the oil, lime juice, chili powder, cumin, corian-
sour cream has a milder acidic bite and a little more salt. der, garlic, and salt. Coat the mahi-mahi with the marinade.
makes 8 servings 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
2 lb mahi-mahi
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
½ cup vegetable oil
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
3 tbsp lime juice 5. Grill the fish on the first side over direct heat until the
5 tsp chili powder flesh is firm and well marked, about 2 minutes. Turn the fish
1½ tsp ground cumin and grill until cooked through, about 11/2 to 2 minutes more.
1½ tsp ground coriander 6. Grill the tortillas until they have light grill marks and are
1½ tsp minced garlic heated through, about 15 seconds on the first side. Turn the
Salt, to taste tortillas and grill them until they just start to bubble, another
8 flour tortillas, 8 inches in diameter 15 seconds.
Southwestern Slaw (recipe follows) 7. Center 2 pieces of grilled fish on each tortilla, and top with

1 cup Chipotle Pico de Gallo (recipe follows) the Southwestern Slaw and Chipotle Pico de Gallo. Add a dol-
lop of Mexican Crema, fold in half, and serve immediately.
½ cup Mexican Crema (recipe follows)

Set up platters of the soft fish tacos so that guests can help them-

selves or allow them to make their own tacos by putting together a

70   |  g r i l l in g

buffet near the grill. The second option cuts down on your assembly

time and allows more time for you to enjoy yourself.

 Southwestern Slaw Mexican Crema
makes 8 servings makes - cup

2 cups fine-shredded green cabbage ½ cup Mexican sour cream

2 tsp lime juice ½ tsp finely grated lime zest

2 tsp honey 2 tsp lime juice

2 tbsp minced red onion

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The cream is ready
2 tsp minced jalapeños
to use now or it can be stored in a covered container in the re-
2 tsp chopped cilantro
frigerator for up to 2 days.
Salt, to taste

Combine all the ingredients. Allow the mixture to marinate

for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours before serving.

Chipotle Pico de Gallo

makes 1 cup

1 cup medium-dice tomatoes (seeded before dicing)

4 tsp minced red onion
½ tsp red wine vinegar
½ canned chipotle pepper, minced
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp cilantro chiffonade

Combine all the ingredients and mix well. The pico de gallo
is ready to use now or it can be stored in a covered container
in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
7 2   |   g r i l l i n g
 grilled mahi-mahi
with Pineapple Chutney

Pineapple Chutney
M
ahi-mahi has a relatively firm texture, so you could
substitute any meaty fish here: halibut, sea bass, tuna,

T
or swordfish. his chutney is best after the flavor has mellowed for
makes 8 servings about 1 hour and should be enjoyed within 2 days of
being made.
8 mahi-mahi fillets, about 8 oz each
makes 2- cups
Salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste 2 cups diced pineapple

Juice of 1 lemon ¼ cup minced scallions

Vegetable oil, as needed ¼ cup minced cilantro

2½ cups Pineapple Chutney (recipe follows) ¼ cup minced red pepper

4 tsp fresh lime juice

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a Salt, to taste

charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals Ground black pepper, to taste
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread Ground cayenne pepper, to taste
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Season the mahi-mahi with salt and pepper and drizzle Toss together the pineapple, scallion, cilantro, and red pep-
with the lemon juice. Brush evenly with the oil. per in a bowl. Season with the lime juice, salt, black pepper,
3. Grill the mahi-mahi until marked on one side, about 3 to and cayenne to taste. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour and
4 minutes. Turn the fish over and grill until the fish is cooked up to 2 days before serving.
through, about 2 minutes more.
4. Serve at once on heated plates with Pineapple Chutney.

f is h
a n d
s e af oo d  |  7 3
 s m o k e d t ro u t
with Apple-Horseradish Cream

W
hen you apply the salt mixture, make it slightly 1. Lay the trout on a baking sheet skin-side up. Scrape
heavier over the thickest portion of the fish and the skin lightly with the back side of a knife to remove the
thinner where the fish begins to taper at the tail. The drying scales.
stage, where the fish is left uncovered in the refrigerator, de- 2. Combine the salt, sugar, garlic and onion powders, pep-
velops a skin that picks up a lot of the smoky flavor. Garde- per, and lemon zest.
manger chefs refer to this stage as “forming a pellicle.” 3. Cover the belly and tail sections of the trout with a 1/16-
makes 6 servings inch layer of the salt mixture and cover the thicker sections
with a 1/4-inch layer. Let the trout sit for 30 minutes in the re-
6 pan-dressed trout, 10 oz each
frigerator. (recipe continues on page 76)
1 cup kosher salt
½ cup granulated sugar
left to right  When placing the fish on the rack to form a pel-
1 tbsp garlic powder
licle, be sure not to crowd them; they need plenty of air to circu-
1 tsp onion powder
late around them so that they dry evenly. Place the trout skin-side
1 tsp ground black pepper
down on the rack that is set over the smoking wood chips; it is im-
Zest of 2 lemons
portant that the wood chips start smoking before adding the trout
2 cups mixed baby greens so that they will get the proper amount of flavor during the time
C/d cup Lemon Vinaigrette (page 76) they are in the smoker. Carefully pull the pin bones out with a pair
2 Granny Smith apples, thinly sliced of fish tweezers; this may take a couple of tries, but your guests will
1 cup Apple-Horseradish Cream (page 76) appreciate it.
74   |  g r il l i n g
 4. Rinse the trout in cold water and place on a wire rack. Lemon Vinaigrette
Let dry, uncovered, in the refrigerator for at least 6 and up to
makes 2 cups
12 hours.
5. Prepare a smoker according to the manufacturer’s in- B/d cup lemon juice
structions or set up a disposable smoker as described below. 3 tbsp white wine vinegar
Place the trout skin-side down in the smoker and let it smoke 3 tbsp minced parsley or chives (optional)
for 10 to 15 minutes at between 225° and 250°F. If you are 1 tsp honey
using a disposable smoker, the cooking time is about 5 min-
1½ tsp salt
utes. Remove from the heat and let cool.
½ tsp ground black pepper
6. Toss the greens with the Lemon Vinaigrette. Serve the
1½ cups extra-virgin olive oil
trout with the dressed greens, sliced apples, and the Apple-
Horseradish Cream.
1. Blend the lemon juice, vinegar, parsley or chives (if
using), honey, salt, and pepper in a bowl. Add the olive oil
Apple-Horseradish Cream gradually while whisking until all of the oil is added and the
vinaigrette is smooth.
makes 1 cup
2. The vinaigrette is ready to use now or it may be stored in
¼ cup heavy cream a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
¼ cup sour cream
¼ cup grated Granny Smith apple (peeled before grating)
2 tbsp prepared horseradish Making a Disposable Smoker
¼ tsp salt
To intensify the smoky flavor of trout or other ingredients when

you don’t have a smoker to use, set up a disposable smoker. You’ll

1. Whisk the heavy cream until medium-stiff peaks form. need two aluminum roasting pans, a rack, and hardwood chips. (See

Fold in the sour cream, apple, horseradish, and salt. Chapter 1 for more about types of wood for smoking and grilling.)

2. The sauce is ready to serve now or store it in a covered Dampen the chips or chunks and then make an even layer of

container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. them in one of the pans. Set your rack over the chips, and top with

the second pan, inverting it to make a domed lid.

Put this assembly over direct heat on the grill until you can smell

the smoke. Lift off the lid, place the food you want to smoke on the

rack, replace the lid, and continue to smoke for the length of time

suggested in your recipe.

7 6   |  g r il l i n g
 grilled tuna
with Salsa Verde

I
n this simple dish, we prefer the fish rare; simply in- 1. Clean the skin and bloodline from the tuna, if necessary.
crease the cooking time if you like your fish more well- Slice the tuna into 6 even portions. Brush the tuna steaks
done. This dish makes an impressive entrée for guests, yet it’s with 1 tbsp of the olive oil and season with cumin, salt, and
deceptively simple to prepare. pepper. Refrigerate until needed.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
2¼ lb yellowfin tuna fillet
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
Ground cumin, to taste
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
Salt, to taste 3. To make the salsa verde, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste sauté pan over medium heat. Cook the tomatillos, jalapeño,
3 tbsp olive oil and onion until very brown, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add the
½ cup tomatillos, husked and finely chopped garlic and cook briefly. Season to taste with honey, lime, salt,
½ jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped and pepper. Stir in the cilantro and parsley. Reserve until
½ cup finely chopped onions needed.
1 garlic clove, finely chopped 4. Grill the tuna steaks over direct heat, turning as neces-
½ tbsp honey sary, until cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side.
Juice of ½ lime 5. Serve the tuna at once on a heated platter or individual
plates with the salsa verde.
½ bunch cilantro, rinsed, dried, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped parsley

f i s h
a n d
s e af oo d  |  7 7
 grilled red snapper
with Marinated Jícama and Manchamantel Sauce

T
he combination of smoky grilled fish, tart jícama, flavor. The tomatoes really round out the flavor and add rich-
and a spicy-sweet fruit sauce is unusual and dramatic. ness to the sauce. This would be great with any grilled meat
makes 6 servings or vegetable.
makes 2 cups
1 cup fresh lime juice
¼ cup chopped cilantro 1 dried ancho chile
4 tsp salt ½ dried guajillo chile
3 cups jícama, peeled and julienned ½ tsp olive oil
6 red snapper fillets, skin on, 6 oz each B/d cup medium-dice yellow onion
¼ cup olive oil, or as needed 1 tsp minced garlic
1 tsp ground black pepper ¼ pineapple, peeled and cored
2 cups Manchamantel Sauce (recipe follows) 2 plum tomatoes
½ Granny Smith, or other tart green apple, peeled and cored
1. In a medium-sized bowl, combine the lime juice, cilan- ½ Bartlett pear, peeled and cored
tro, and 2 tsp salt. Add the jícama and toss the pieces to coat ½ peach, peeled and pitted
evenly. Refrigerate for 1 hour. Drain the excess lime juice from 1 tsp lime juice
the jícama.
1 tsp granulated sugar
2. Preheat a grill to high heat. If you are using a charcoal
½ tsp salt
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
Pinch ground allspice
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
Pinch ground cloves
3. Brush the fillets with the olive oil. Season the snapper on
both sides with the remaining salt and the pepper.

f is h
4. Grill the snapper, skin-side down, for 4 minutes. Turn the 1. Toast the chiles over a gas flame or in a dry cast-iron skillet
fish once and grill for 3 minutes, or until just opaque through- over medium heat until puffed, about 1 minute on each side.

a n d
out. Transfer the fillets to warmed plates, skin-side up. 2. Place the chiles in a medium-sized saucepan, add enough
5. Serve the snapper immediately with the Manchamantel water to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to a sim-

s e af oo d  |   7 9
Sauce and the jícama. mer; cover, and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the chiles from
the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon and set aside. Reserve
Manchamantel Sauce the cooking liquid.
3. Heat the oil in a small sauté pan over medium heat. Add

M
anchamantel tr anslates to English as “table- the onion and sauté until golden, about 8 to 10 minutes. Add
cloth stainer.” This sauce has a sweet, tart, and spicy the garlic and sauté for 1 minute. (recipe continues on page 80)
 4. Combine the chiles, onion mixture, and all of the re- until it is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
maining ingredients in a large bowl and toss until mixed. Serve the sauce warm.
Transfer the mixture to a blender and purée in batches to note: The amount of sauce you will get from this rec-
make a smooth sauce. ipe may vary, depending on the sizes of the fruits and to-
5. Pour the sauce into a medium-sized saucepan and matoes. If you have more than you need for the red snapper
bring to a simmer over medium heat. Thin the sauce with a recipe, let the remainder cool, cover, and store in the refrig-
little of the reserved cooking liquid from the chiles, if nec- erator for up to 3 days. Serve the leftover sauce with grilled
essary. If the sauce is too thin, simmer over medium heat or roasted pork or chicken.
8 0   |  g r il l i n g
 p o u l t ry

P
oultry of all types is perfect on the grill. This chapter freedom from such defects as broken bones or discoloration.
includes traditional barbecued chicken as well as North Whole birds are labeled with a specific name—broiler, fryer,
African–inspired boneless roasts. Tandoori-style chicken in- roaster—determined by the bird’s breed, age, sex, and weight.
spired by Indian cuisine and a Korean-inspired bulgogi bring When you buy poultry, take the time to read the label or talk to
Southeast Asia to your grill. A fiery jerk recipe comes from the the butcher. Fresh means that the bird was never chilled below
Caribbean. Pan smoking on the grill helps you get the taste of 26°F. If you see the word Natural on a package, you should also
real barbecue, even from a gas grill. You can substitute what- see a statement explaining exactly what this means: perhaps
ever kind of poultry you have on hand for almost any of these “no added coloring or artificial ingredients” or “minimally
recipes. Use the table on page 83 to adjust grilling times. processed.” Note, however, that hormones are not a concern,
Selective breeding has dramatically changed the shape, as they are prohibited in the raising of poultry.
texture, and flavor of birds. Modern poultry-raising practices Many chefs prefer organic or free-range poultry for a vari-
run the gamut from huge operations with nationally recog- ety of reasons, including health, nutrition, and, perhaps most
nized brand names to much smaller farms where birds are important, flavor. To qualify their birds as free-range or free-
free to roam outside in a yard or pen. All birds raised for re- roaming, producers must demonstrate to the USDA that birds
tail sale, domestic and game birds alike, must be inspected for have access to the outside. Birds bearing the organic symbol
wholesomeness and safety. Farms and processing plants are or the word Organic are raised using organic management
inspected regularly. Trained federal or state inspectors check techniques from the second day of life and are certified by an
the birds for any visible signs of disease after slaughter. entity such as the National Organic Program (NOP), which
Although inspection is mandatory, quality grading is elec- meets USDA-approved criteria and has a system for ensuring
tive. The poultry found in your grocery store has most likely that those standards are met. And while “free range” does not
been graded “USDA A.” This indicates that the bird met spe- mean that birds are organically raised, all organically raised
cific standards in the areas of meatiness, appearance, and birds must be allowed access to the outdoors.

“Beer Can” Chicken, 84 Goat Cheese–Stuffed Turkey Burgers with

Black Jack Chicken Breasts, 87 red Pepper–Apricot Relish, 100

Grilled Chicken Bulgogi-Style, 89 Chicken Burgers with French-Fried Potatoes, 103

Plum-Glazed Grilled Chicken, 90 Sateh of Chicken, 105

Grilled Cinnamon Chicken, 91 Jerked Game Hens with Rice and Beans and grilled
82   |  g r i l l i n g

pineapple–jícama salad, 106

Pan-Smoked Chicken with Apricot-Ancho
Barbecue glaze, 92 Grilled Basil-Lemon Cornish Game Hens
with Meyer Lemon Salsa, 111
Grilled Honey-Spice Chicken Roast , 95
Spit-Roasted Duck with Orange-Ginger-Soy Glaze and
Tandoori-style Chicken with Yogurt Masala, 96
wild and brown rice pilaf, 112
Rosemary-Skewered Chicken & Mushrooms with naan, 97
Peppercorn Rabbit with Figs Wrapped in Prosciutto, 114
Grilled Quail with oven-dried Tomato Couscous, 99
Grilling Temperatures and Times for Poultry

Times listed are for fully cooked birds, with an internal temperature of 165°F. Cook duck slightly longer if you prefer it medium-rare.

Chicken, whole 3 to 3½ pounds 1 hour, indirect medium heat

Chicken, halved 1 to 1½ pounds 1 to 1½ hours, indirect medium heat

Chicken leg pieces, bone-in 6 ounces 10 to 12 minutes, direct medium heat

Chicken thighs, boneless skinless 4 ounces 12 to 15 minutes, direct medium heat

Chicken breast pieces, bone-in 9 ounces 12 to 15 minutes, direct medium heat

Chicken breasts, boneless skinless 6 ounces 10 to 12 minutes, direct medium heat

Cornish game hens, whole 1¼ to 1½ pounds 1 hour, indirect medium heat

Cornish game hens, halved 10 to 12 ounces 35 to 40 minutes, indirect medium heat

Turkey, whole 10 pounds 2 to 2½ hours, indirect medium heat

12 pounds 2½ to 3 hours, indirect medium heat

15 pounds 3 hours, indirect medium heat

18 pounds 3½ hours, indirect medium heat

Turkey breast, bone-in 5 pounds 1½ hours, indirect medium heat

Turkey drumstick, bone-in 12 to 14 ounces 45 minutes to 1 hour, indirect medium heat

Duck, whole 5 pounds 1½ to 2 hours, indirect medium heat

Rabbit pieces, bone-in 4 to 5 pounds 15 to 20 minutes, direct medium heat

Checking Birds for Doneness

→ Insert the tip of the thermometer’s stem at least 1 inch into the

p ou lt ry   |  8 3
→ Be sure your thermometer is accurate. If you aren’t sure, stick the meat, avoiding any bones to get an accurate reading. Give the
stem of your thermometer into a glass of ice water. The tempera- thermometer about 1 minute to come up to temperature.
ture should read 32°F.
→ If your meat is too thin to take an accurate reading with an instant-
→ Clean the thermometer properly after every use to avoid cross con- read thermometer, use the touch test (meats will feel firm to the
tamination. touch) or cut into a piece.
 “beer can” chicken

U
se a clean cotton mop to daub the chicken with the 2. Blot the chickens dry and season with 2 tsp of the salt
mopping sauce as it roasts on the grill. and 1 tsp of the pepper.
makes 8 servings 3. To make the mopping sauce: Pour half the beer from
each can into a bowl. Add the lemon juice, Barbecue Sauce,
2 fryer chickens, about 4 lb each
the remaining 2 tsp salt, and the remaining 1 tsp pepper.
4 tsp salt
Leave each beer can half full of beer and set aside.
2 tsp ground black pepper 4. If you are using vertical roasters, add the reserved beer
Two 12-ounce cans lager- or pilsner-style beer to the reservoirs in the roasters, assemble the roasters, and
10 tbsp lemon juice set the chickens on the roasters. If cooking the chickens on
¼ cup Barbecue Sauce (page 41) the beer cans, set the cans on the grill over direct heat and
carefully lower the chickens onto them. Position the legs so
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. that they balance the chickens. Grill over direct heat, cov-
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn ered, until golden, mopping the chickens every 15 minutes
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- with the mopping sauce, about 60 minutes. (recipe continues
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side on page 86)
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.

left to right  Position the back of the bird on the vertical roaster turns golden brown. As the layers of the mopping sauce build up

and gently roll the front of the chicken over the roaster; push the and caramelize, a rich, flavorful, mahogany crust will form on the

drumsticks forward until they are almost touching to properly bal- chicken. Opposite, the “Beer Can” Chicken here is served with the

ance the bird. Baste the chicken over medium-high heat until it Grilled Sweet Onions (page 144).
8 4   |  g r il l i n g
 5. Move the chickens to indirect heat, cover, and continue About Beer Can Chicken
to cook until brown, mopping every 15 minutes, for another
30 minutes. “Beer Can” Chicken was a popular trend in outdoor cooking. The idea

6. Move the chickens to indirect medium heat and con- was that you could replicate a spit by making the chicken stand up-

tinue to cook them until they are a rich brown and cooked right. A typical beer can was just the right size and height. Although

through (165°F), another 45 minutes. it might seem primitive, you can still use a beer can if you don’t have

7. Remove the chickens from the beer cans or roasters, the roasting tool we show in our photos. If you like the flavor and the

transfer to a platter, and let rest for 15 minutes. incredibly moist bird you get from “beer can” roasting, it’s worth the

8. Cut into quarters with a kitchen fork and boning knife. money to get a vertical roaster, if for no other reason than that you

Serve on a heated platter or plates. can use all those fabulous juices to baste the bird as it cooks.

About Barbecue Sauce juices, vinegars, brewed coffee, and mustard are all good options as

basic seasoning adjustments.

Barbecue sauce is a grilling basic. There are plenty of good barbe- The sauce should be thick enough to cling, but not so thick that

cue sauces you can buy, but they are easy to make at home in large it covers the food in a heavy layer. As barbecue sauces sit in the re-

enough amounts to last for a couple of weeks of grilling. You can find frigerator they can become thicker, so if you need to thin the sauce,

recipes for a variety of barbecue sauces in this book. You can double use either plain water (add it just a spoonful at a time to the sim-

or triple those recipes to make batches in the size you require. That mering sauce), a broth, beer, or other flavorful liquid until the sauce

way, you’ll have plenty to both baste on the food and to pass on the has a good consistency.

side at the table. (Never serve the sauce you used to baste foods, es- Keep the sauce warm and have a brush at the ready. A 2-inch-

pecially hazardous foods likes poultry, meats, or fish.) wide brush with a long handle is the best choice. You can keep the

When you are ready to grill, measure out the amount you need barbecue sauce right on the grill but pulled to the edge, if there is

and heat it right on the grill, if you have room, or on a burner. It should enough room.

come to a simmer and stay there for 3 minutes. This step gives you a Remember that several light coats produce a richer glaze. Not

chance to check the barbecue sauce for flavor and consistency. only that, brushing on just enough to cling means you are less likely

Add more seasonings to the barbecue sauce now. One obvious to scorch the food you are grilling.

adjustment is salt and pepper. Instead of black pepper, you might Finally, once you are done grilling, discard any of the sauce you

want to add some finely minced chiles, a few drops (or more) of used for glazing. If you want to pass sauce on the side, measure out
8 6   |  g r il l in g

your favorite hot sauce, a little cayenne, or red pepper flakes. Citrus some more and warm it up.
 black jack chicken breasts

T
his is a traditional backyard favorite that’s hard to beat with the barbecue sauce, until the chicken is cooked through
and a great way to show off your barbecue sauce reper- (165°F) and the juices run clear, 10 to 15 minutes more.
toire. Black Jack Barbecue Sauce gets its name from the jolt of 5. Serve on a heated platter or plates.
strong coffee that is added to it.
makes 8 servings

Black Jack Barbecue Sauce

2 cups apple cider
½ cup cider vinegar makes 4 cups

1 tbsp minced shallots

2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 yellow onion, diced small
2 tsp salt, or to taste
2 tbsp minced garlic
1 tsp ground black pepper, or to taste
¼ cup chili powder
8 chicken breasts, bone in and skin on
2 tbsp minced jalapeño, or to taste
2 cups Black Jack Barbecue Sauce (recipe follows)
1 cup tomato paste
1 cup brewed coffee
1. To make the marinade: Combine the apple cider, cider
1 cup Worcestershire sauce
vinegar, shallots, garlic, 1 tsp of the salt, and 1/2 tsp of the pep-
½ cup apple cider vinegar
per in a zip-close bag. Add the chicken pieces and seal the
½ cup lightly packed brown sugar
bag, pressing out the air. Let marinate in the refrigerator for
at least 2 and up to 12 hours. ½ cup apple cider or apple juice

2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.

If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn 1. Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy 2-quart saucepan over
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and sauté until trans-
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side lucent, about 3 minutes. Add the chili powder and jalapeño,
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook, stir-
3. Remove the chicken from the marinade, letting any ex- ring constantly, for 2 minutes.
cess drain off. Season with the remaining salt and pepper. 2. Add all the remaining ingredients and simmer, stirring
4. Grill the chicken over direct heat until marked on all sides, occasionally, for 10 to 15 minutes. Use immediately, or let cool
about 3 minutes per side. Finish cooking the chicken over in- to room temperature before storing in a clean, covered con-

po ult ry   |  8 7
direct heat, covered, turning every few minutes and brushing tainer in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
 g r i l l e d ch i c k e n b u l g o g i - s t y l e

B
ulgogi, also spelled Bool Kogi, is a traditional Ko- 3. Smash the remaining 1 tsp sesame seeds and whisk to-
rean dish consisting of grilled meat served in a wrap- gether with the red pepper paste, the remaining 2 tbsp mirin,
per. Usually, bulgogi features beef, a popular meat in Korean and the remaining 1 tbsp sugar to make a sauce. Refrigerate
cooking, but we’ve adapted it to chicken thighs. The word the sauce in a covered container until ready to serve.
bulgogi translates as “fire meat,” so you can expect some 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
heat. The marinade contains sugar, which can burn quickly grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
over the hot fire necessary to grill the bulgogi, so keep an eye glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
on it as it cooks and move the chicken pieces to a cooler spot coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
if the marinade starts to scorch. 5. Remove the chicken from the marinade, letting any ex-
makes 8 servings cess marinade drain off. Grill the chicken until browned and
cooked through, about 4 to 5 minutes per side.
1 cup minced scallions
6. Arrange 2 cabbage or lettuce leaves on each plate. Place a
3 tbsp minced ginger
chicken thigh on top, spoon some of the Scallion Salad over it,
1 tbsp minced garlic and garnish with slices of the garlic and the reserved sauce.
B/d cup light soy sauce
To blanch the garlic, bring a small pan of water to a boil. Add the
5 tbsp mirin (sweet rice wine)
sliced garlic and simmer for 30 seconds. Drain the garlic, rinse with
1 tbsp vegetable oil
cool water, and drain and rinse again. You can blanch the garlic ahead
4 tsp toasted sesame seeds
of time and keep it in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it.
2 tbsp granulated sugar
2 tsp Korean red pepper powder
8 boneless, skinless chicken thighs Scallion Salad
½ cup Korean red pepper paste
makes 8 servings
16 leaves Napa cabbage or iceberg lettuce
½ tsp granulated sugar
Scallion Salad (recipe follows)
¼ tsp sesame oil
3 garlic cloves, thinly sliced and blanched (see note)
1 tsp mirin (sweet rice wine)
½ tsp toasted sesame seeds, smashed
1. Whisk together the scallions, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, 3
½ tsp Korean red pepper powder
tbsp of the mirin, the oil, 3 tsp of the sesame seeds, 1 tbsp of
1 tsp salt

p ou lt ry   |  8 9
the sugar, and the red pepper powder to make a marinade.
2 cups scallion julienne
2. Trim the chicken thighs to remove any pockets of fat and
pound them until they are an even 1/2 inch thick. Cut each
thigh in half. Add the pounded chicken thighs to the mari- 1. Combine the sugar, sesame oil, mirin, sesame seeds, red
nade and turn to coat the chicken evenly. Let marinate in the pepper powder, and salt.
refrigerator for at least 1 and up to 12 hours. 2. Add the scallions and toss together just before serving.
 plum-glazed grilled chicken

T
his chicken dish features some classic Asian flavors. 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
The variety, quality, and availability of Asian sauces If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
have improved over the years, to the point where you can down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
find a selection of good-quality brands in most supermar- ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
kets. It is still worth the trouble to seek out specialty shops if of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
you are a true aficionado of Asian cooking, though. 2. To make the plum glaze: Combine the rice wine, soy
makes 6 servings sauce, plum sauce, water, vinegar, honey, salt, and pepper in
a small saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Thin the
¼ cup Chinese rice wine or dry sherry wine
glaze with more water, if needed, so the glaze lightly coats
¼ cup soy sauce
the back of a spoon.
¼ cup plum sauce 3. Grill the chicken over direct heat on the first side until
¼ cup water, or more as needed well browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Move the chicken pieces to in-
3 tbsp rice wine vinegar direct heat. Cover and continue to grill the chicken, turn-
3 tbsp honey ing every 5 minutes and brushing with the plum glaze, until
1 tsp salt cooked through (165°F), about 15 minutes more for the breast
½ tsp ground black pepper pieces and 20 minutes more for drumsticks and thighs.
2 fryer chickens, 2½ to 3 lb each, cut into eighths and trimmed 4. Serve immediately on a heated platter or plates.
90   |  g r i l l in g
 grilled cinnamon chicken

C
innamon sticks are made from the bark of a tree. As sauce. Reserve half of the mixture to use as a dipping sauce.
the bark dries, it curls into quills. You can snap long Pour the remainder over the skewered chicken pieces and
quills into long shards, perfect to use as skewers for this turn to coat evenly. Cover, and let marinate in the refrig-
Asian-inspired chicken skewer. It’s just as good prepared on erator for at least 11/2 and up to 24 hours (depending on the
wooden skewers, though. strength of flavor you want).
makes 8 servings 3. Heat the reserved dipping sauce in a small sauté pan
over medium-high to high heat. Bring the sauce to a boil, re-
8 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into 2-inch cubes
duce to a simmer, and cook until thickened slightly, about
64 cinnamon-stick skewers
21/2 minutes. Keep warm.
C/d cup sherry wine 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
C/d cup plum sauce grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
4 tsp hoisin sauce ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
4 tsp soy sauce an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
8 tsp toasted sesame seeds 5. Grill the chicken skewers covered over direct heat, turn-
C/d cup thin-sliced scallions, green parts only ing as necessary, until the chicken is browned and is cooked
through (165°F), about 12 to 15 minutes.
1. Thread 1 or 2 of the chicken cubes onto the cinnamon- 6. Brush the skewers with some of the dipping sauce and
stick skewers. garnish with the sesame seeds and scallions. Serve immedi-
2. Combine the sherry, plum sauce, hoisin sauce, and soy ately with the reserved dipping sauce.

po ult ry   |  9 1
 pan-smoked chicken
with Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Glaze

T
o learn more about setting yourself up for pan-smok- 1. Season the chicken with the salt and pepper.
ing, see Making a Disposable Smoker (page 76). 2. Combine the oil, vinegar, Worcestershire, sugar, mus-
makes 8 servings tard, Tabasco, garlic powder, onion powder, and minced gar-
lic to make a marinade.
8 boneless chicken breasts or suprêmes (see page 94)
3. Pour the marinade over the chicken, turning the chicken
2 tsp salt
pieces to coat evenly. Cover and let marinate in the refrigera-
1 tsp ground black pepper tor for at least 3 hours or up to overnight.
1¼ cups vegetable oil (recipe continues on page 94)
½ cup cider vinegar
2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
left to right  Place the chicken on the smoker setup on the grill;
1 tbsp brown sugar
leave enough space around the chicken to make sure that the smoke
2 tsp dry mustard circulates properly. Do not smoke the chicken too long or the outside
1 tsp Tabasco sauce of the chicken will dry out. The Pan-Smoked Chicken shown here is
1 tsp garlic powder served with Hoe Cakes (page 151); start cooking the Hoe Cakes just be-
1 tsp onion powder fore the chicken finishes cooking or while the chicken is resting. Oppo-
1 tbsp minced garlic site, the Pan-Smoked Chicken and the Hoe Cakes are garnished with a

1 cup Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Glaze (page 20), or as needed drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle of chopped herbs.
92   |  g r il l i n g
 4. Preheat the grill to medium. If you are using a charcoal 6. Place the chicken on the rack and cover tightly. Smoke
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- until the chicken is light golden brown, 3 minutes. Remove
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in the chicken from the smoker and finishing grilling over di-
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. rect heat until done (165°F), about 8 to 10 minutes more. Brush
5. Place a rack over lightly dampened hardwood chips in the chicken with barbecue glaze about halfway through the
an aluminum pan and place the smoker setup on the grill. cooking time and again before removing it from the grill.
Allow the chips to start smoking slightly. Serve with additional barbecue sauce, if desired.

Making Suprêmes

A suprême is a chicken breast that has been trimmed and boned in Continue cutting the breast meat away from the bones. When

a specific way. you reach the joint where the wings are attached to the breast, use

To make a suprême, first, cut the first two joints of the wings away; the tip of your knife to cut through the cartilage in the socket of the

you can save them for preparing chicken broth. Next, cut through the joint.

skin and breast meat along one side of the breast bone. Now you have a large boneless piece of breast meat with just one

Use one hand to hold the meat away from the bones and keep wing bone still attached. This makes an attractive cut that is easy

making short strokes with the blade of a thin knife along the bones. to handle on the grill. You can remove the skin if you like, but if you

Try to keep the breast meat as intact as possible and leave as little leave it on, it gives the tender, lean breast meat some extra protec-

meat on the bones as you can. tion as it grills.

94   |  g r i l l in g
 grilled honey-spice chicken roast

T
her e is a distinct flavor combination in this dish powder, and cayenne. Let the cure rest for 1 hour to allow the
that will transport you to Morocco. You can ask the flavors to combine.
butcher at your market to make a boneless, tied roast from 2. Blot the chickens dry with paper towels. Season with
a good-sized chicken. When the bird is rolled up, the diame- some of the salt and the minced garlic. Brush the chickens
ter should be about 4 inches. You can also use this recipe for with 1/4 cup of the spice cure. Cover, and let marinate in the
boneless turkey breasts; increase the grilling time to com- refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 12 hours. (Reserve the re-
pletely cook this large roast, however. maining 1/4 cup of the spice cure for the sauce.)
makes 8 servings 3. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
½ cup olive oil
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of
1 tsp ground cinnamon
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the
1 tsp ground cumin grill. Clean the cooking grate.
1 tsp ground coriander 4. Bring the broth to a simmer. Add the onion, carrots, the
1 tsp crushed saffron threads reserved spice cure, and the honey. Simmer until the sauce is
1 tsp chili powder flavorful and reduced by half, about 15 minutes. Adjust sea-
1 tsp ground cayenne pepper soning to taste with a little of the remaining salt, if desired.
2 fryer chickens, 3 lb each, boned, rolled, and tied Keep the sauce warm (or, if you made the sauce in advance,
2 tsp salt, or as needed cool it and store in a covered container in the refrigerator for
2 tsp minced garlic up to 3 days).
1 cup chicken broth 5. Remove the chicken from the spice cure, letting any ex-
cess drain off. Grill the chicken over direct heat until marked
1½ cups small-dice sweet onion
on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Finish the chicken
1¼ cups small-dice carrots
over indirect heat, turning every 10 to 12 minutes, until the
5 tsp honey
chicken is cooked through (165°F) and the juices run clear, 30
¾ cup toasted walnuts (or Candied Walnuts, page 179)
to 40 minutes more.
8 slices cantaloupe
6. Remove the chicken from the grill and allow it to rest
for 10 minutes before carving into slices. Garnish the sliced
1. To make a spice cure for the chicken: Mix together the chicken with the walnuts and cantaloupe slices, and serve the
olive oil with the cinnamon, cumin, coriander, saffron, chili reserved sauce on the side.

po ult ry   |  95
 tandoori-style chicken
with Yogurt Masala

T
andoor is an Indian style of grilling in which a clay 3. Mix together the yogurt, water, ginger, garlic, cumin, car-
oven is used to cook foods at incredibly high heat. Tan- damom, coriander, cayenne, and turmeric. Spread the mix-
doori paste, a combination of spicing and coloring ingredi- ture evenly over the chicken pieces. Cover, and let marinate in
ents, is rubbed into the foods to be prepared in the tandoor the refrigerator at least 12 and up to 24 hours.
oven. They emerge with a brilliant orange-red color. Tandoori 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
chicken, like most Indian foods, is usually served with an as- grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
sortment of fresh and preserved chutneys. Tandoori chicken ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
is traditionally served on a “salat” of grilled onions and toma- an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
toes, with wedges of lime on the side. 5. Grill the chicken pieces over direct heat, covered, turn-
makes 8 servings ing as necessary and basting with the ghee, until cooked
through and the juices run clear, 20 to 25 minutes. (The
2 fryer chickens, 2½ to 3 lb each
breast pieces will cook more quickly than the legs, so remove
3 tbsp lemon juice
them as soon as they are cooked through.)
1 tbsp salt 6. Serve the chicken with the lime wedges on a heated plat-
1B/d cup whole-milk yogurt ter or plates.
3 tbsp water
2 tbsp grated ginger
2 tbsp minced garlic
5 tsp ground cumin About Ghee
2 tsp ground cardamom
2 tsp ground coriander Ghee is a butter used extensively in Indian cooking. You can buy jars

of ghee is some stores, but it is easy to make yourself and lasts a

1½ tsp ground cayenne pepper
long time if you keep it in the refrigerator.
½ tsp ground turmeric
To prepare ghee, cut up unsalted butter and place it in a sauce-
¼ cup ghee or clarified butter
pan. Melt the butter over low heat, then increase the heat slightly. As
8 lime wedges
the butter simmers, you will see that some of the butter has become

clear, while at the same time, some foam has risen to the top and
96   |   g r i l l in g

1. Cut each chicken into 4 pieces (2 whole legs and 2 chicken some solid material has dropped to the bottom. Skim off the foam

breasts), leaving the bones in. Peel the skin from the chicken and continue to cook the ghee.

pieces. Cut slits 1/8 inch deep in a crosshatch pattern in the Keep a close eye on the color of the solids at the bottom of the

breast and thighs using a sharp knife. butter. As the ghee continues to cook, the solids will turn brown. This

2. Mix together the lemon and salt and rub it over the gives ghee its special, nutty flavor. Don’t let the solids turn black, or

chicken pieces, pressing the mixture firmly into the slits. your ghee will have a disagreeable burnt flavor.
 rose m a ry - s k e w e r e d c h i c k e n & m u s h ro oms
with Naan

M
aking skew ers from the stems of herbs gives the glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
dish an additional layer of flavor that isn’t released coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
until you bite into the food. 5. Thread the chicken and mushrooms on the rosemary
makes 6 servings skewers, alternating them. Season the kebabs with the re-
maining salt and pepper.
½ cup olive oil
6. Grill the kebabs over direct heat, covered, turning to cook
3 tbsp lemon juice
evenly, until the chicken is browned and cooked through and
1 tbsp chopped Mediterranean oregano the mushrooms are tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.
1 tsp minced garlic 7. Heat the naan bread briefly over direct heat until
1 tsp salt warmed, if necessary.
½ tsp ground black pepper 8. Serve the kebabs (removed from the skewers, if desired)
12 boneless, skinless chicken thighs with the warmed naan.
1½ lb mushrooms
12 rosemary skewers (see Herb Skewers, below)
12 Naan (page 170) Herb Skewers

1. Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, garlic, Rosemary sprigs can grow large enough to act like a skewer. If you

1/2 tsp of the salt, and 1/4 tsp of the pepper to make a marinade. grow herbs in your garden, you may find that you have tarragon or

2. Trim any fat from the chicken meat. Cut the thighs in oregano sprigs that are sturdy enough to try out as skewers too.

half and place in a zip-close bag. Pour 2/3 of the marinade Strip all the leaves from an herb sprig, leaving just a few leaves

over the chicken and toss to coat well. Seal the bag, pressing on the top inch or so. The leaves you strip from the stem can be used

out the air. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 1 and for other dishes or you can add them to any marinade you might be

up to 12 hours. using. Thread the food onto the skewer, filling the skewer from the

3. Place the mushrooms in another zip-close bag and add bottom to the top.

the remaining marinade. Toss to coat the mushrooms evenly. Sometimes even the sturdiest of herb stems can’t push through

Seal the bag, pressing out the air. Let marinate in the refrig- some foods. In that case, use a metal or wooden skewer to make the

erator for 1 hour. hole, and then push the herb through.

p oult ry   |   9 7
4. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- Use a spatula instead of tongs to lift and turn herb-skewered ke-

coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are babs. They can be a little wobbly on the grill.
 grilled quail
with Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous

Q
uail is sometimes sold in a form known as “glove- 4. Grill the quail over direct heat until marked on both
boned.” That means that the meat has been cut and sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Finish grilling over indi-
peeled away from the bones in much the same way that you rect heat until cooked through (165°F) and the meat springs
might roll a glove off your hand. Once the glove (or quail) is back when pressed, another 3 to 4 minutes per side.
removed, you simply turn it right side out. 5. Serve the quail on a heated platter or plates with the
makes 8 servings Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous.

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 tbsp minced thyme
Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous
3 tbsp minced oregano

T
1 tbsp minced garlic o make oven-dried tomatoes for this dish, simply slice
½ tsp red pepper flakes plum tomatoes (or whatever tomato you have that is ripe
1½ tsp salt and fully flavored), place on a lightly greased baking sheet,
½ tsp ground black pepper and bake at 300°F until the tomato slices have dried, about 45
8 semiboneless quail minutes to 1 hour. If you prefer, simply substitute sun-dried
Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous (recipe follows) tomatoes in this recipe; you can usually find bulk sun-dried
tomatoes in the produce section of larger markets. Don’t use
1. Mix together the olive oil, thyme, oregano, garlic, red oil-pack tomatoes, however.
pepper flakes, 1/2 tsp of the salt, and 1/4 tsp of the black pepper. makes 8 servings

Brush this mixture evenly over the inside and outside of the
3 tbsp olive oil
quail. Marinate in a covered container in the refrigerator for
½ cup minced shallots
at least 1 and up to 12 hours.
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. 1 tbsp minced garlic

If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn 2 cups Israeli couscous

down until the coals are glowing red with a light coating of 4 cups boiling chicken broth

white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the 1 cup coarsely chopped oven-dried or sun-dried tomatoes
grill. Clean the cooking grate. ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

p oult ry   |  9 9
3. Remove the quail from the marinade and brush off any 2 tbsp chopped oregano
excess marinade. Season with the remaining salt and pepper. ½ tsp salt, or to taste
¼ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste
The Grilled Quail with Oven-Dried Tomato Couscous is served with
(recipe continues on page 100)
the Grilled Cauliflower with Brown Butter Sauce (page 125).
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F
tender and translucent, about 5 minutes.
F F F F F F F
1. Heat the olive oil in a large pan over medium heat. Add
the shallots and garlic and sauté, stirring frequently, until
F F F F F F F
rate the grains, and bring the broth back to a boil. Reduce to
a simmer, cover, and cook until the couscous is tender, about
8 to 10 minutes.
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
2. Add the couscous and continue to cook, stirring fre-
quently, until it has a toasted color and aroma, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. Add the hot chicken broth to the couscous, stir to sepa-
F F F F F F F F F F F
4. Fold the oven-dried tomatoes, Parmesan, and oregano

F
into the couscous with a fork. Season with the salt and pep-
per. Serve immediately.
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F
g o at c h e e s e – s t u f f e d t u r k e y b u r g e rs
with Red Pepper–Apricot Relish
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
T
F F he goat cheese filling in the recipe acts like a wonder-
F F F F F 1. Combine the turkey, breadcrumbs, lemon juice, lemon
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
ful sauce, melting and oozing through the burger when
you take a bite. Try this shaping and filling technique for other
burgers: beef burgers filled with Gorgonzola, lamb burgers fla-
F F F F F F F F F F F
zest, thyme, salt, and pepper. Blend well with a wooden
spoon. Divide the mixture into 16 equal portions and press
into 3-inch patties.
F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
vored with mint and filled with feta. Soft, ripe, runny cheeses
are the best. Chilling the burgers before you grill them gives
you the best results, so leave yourself time for that step.
F F F F F F F F F F F
Place a second patty on top and press down the edges to
F
2. Top 8 of the patties with 1 tbsp of the goat cheese each.

seal the patties together. Place the patties on a baking sheet,

F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 8 servings cover, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to 8 hours
to firm.
3 lb ground turkey
3. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
F ½ cup toasted breadcrumbs
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
2 tbsp lemon juice ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
2 tsp grated lemon zest an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
F 1 tsp chopped thyme
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
4. Brush the burgers with the oil and place in a hand rack.
1 tsp salt Grill the burgers over direct heat until browned on the first
½ tsp ground black pepper side, about 7 to 8 minutes. Turn the burgers and grill on the
F 4 oz goat cheese
F F F F F F second side until browned and cooked through, another 7 to
F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
100   |  g r il l in g

4 tsp vegetable oil 8 minutes.

8 English muffins, toasted 5. Serve the turkey burgers on the English muffins, topped

F 2 cups Red Pepper–Apricot Relish (recipe follows)

F F F F F F with the relish.
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Red Pepper–Apricot Relish
F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 2 cups
1. Brush the peppers with 1 tbsp of the oil. Roast the peppers
2 roasted red peppers in a 350°F oven until the skin is loose and the peppers have no
F F F
¼ cup vegetable oil F F F color, about 1 hour.
F F F F F F F
F F
F F
1 cup dried apricots
1 cup diced red onion
F F
1 tsp minced garlic
F F F F F F F F F F F
2. Peel, seed, and dice the peppers into small cubes.

F
3. Heat the remaining oil in a medium-sized saucepan over
medium heat. Add the apricots, onions, and garlic, and sauté
F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
½ cup chicken broth
1 tbsp white vinegar
F F
1 tsp Dijon mustard
F F F F F F F F F F F
and broth and simmer until most of the liquid has evapo-
rated, 5 to 10 minutes.
F F F F F F
until translucent, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the red peppers

F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
4. Add the vinegar, mustard, and hot sauce. Cook until most
2 to 3 drops hot sauce
of the liquid has evaporated, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season the
½ tsp salt
mixture with salt and black pepper.
F F F
¼ tsp ground black pepper F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
5. Serve the relish at room temperature or chilled. Add the
1 tsp chopped parsley parsley just before serving.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Roasting Peppers
F F F F
Anytime you have the grill on with a good hot fire, put a few peppers
F F F F F F F
to room temperature.

F F F F
a bowl and cover them with plastic wrap. Allow the peppers to cool

To peel and seed the peppers, pull away the skin, using a par-
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r i l l in g  |  101
on to roast to enjoy later on. ing knife or a table knife to scrape off any bits that cling. Cut the

Pierce the peppers in a few spots and set them over direct high peppers in half and pull out the seeds and ribs. Scrape the peppers

F heat. Turn occasionally until the skin is blistered and charred all
F F F F F lightly with a spoon or table knife to remove any seeds or bits of skin
F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F
over. The peppers will collapse as they grill. Transfer the peppers to

F F F F F F F F
that are still clinging to the pepper.

F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 chicken burgers
with French-Fried Potatoes

M
ushrooms add moisture and flavor to these burg- 1. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat.
ers. Grind your own chicken meat for the freshest fla- When the pan is hot, add the shallots and sauté until trans-
vor. For a great texture, and a safe burger, make sure all of lucent, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and cook until
your ingredients are well-chilled before you blend and shape browned and all the moisture has evaporated, about 10 min-
the burgers. utes. Remove from heat and add the parsley, 1 tsp of the salt,
makes 8 servings and 1/2 tsp of the pepper. Allow to cool to room temperature.
2. Gently mix together the mushroom mixture, the chicken,
6 tbsp olive oil
breadcrumbs, herbs, and the remaining salt and pepper until
1 large shallot, minced
completely blended. Form into 8 patties. Chill in the refrigera-
1½ cups mushrooms, minced tor for 30 minutes.
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 3. Mix together the mayonnaise, Red Pepper Ketchup, and
2 tsp salt red pepper flakes to make a rouille. Keep covered in the re-
1 tsp ground black pepper frigerator until you are ready to serve the burgers.
2 lb ground chicken meat 4. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
3 cups breadcrumbs coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
1 tbsp chopped chives glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
1 tbsp chopped oregano coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
1 tbsp chopped basil 5. Brush the inside of the Kaiser rolls with the melted but-
ter and grill until golden brown. Keep warm.
1 tbsp chopped rosemary
6. Grill the chicken burgers until cooked through, about 6
½ cup mayonnaise
minutes per side. About 2 minutes after you turn the burgers,
¼ cup Red Pepper Ketchup (page 187)
top them with a slice of cheese and 2 pieces of bacon. Cover
1 tsp red pepper flakes
the grill so the cheese will melt.
8 Kaiser rolls
7. Spread the rouille on the toasted buns and top with the
2 tbsp melted butter
burgers. Garnish the chicken burgers with the lettuce, to-
8 slices provolone cheese mato, and red onion, and serve immediately with the French-
8 strips bacon, cut in half, cooked until crisp Fried Potatoes.

p ou lt ry   |  10 3
8 leaves lettuce
8 slices tomato
8 slices red onion
French-Fried Potatoes (page 104)
 French-Fried Potatoes
makes 8 servings

3½ lb russet potatoes
3 cups vegetable oil, or as needed 2. Heat the oil to 300°F in a deep fryer or heavy-gauge pot.

Salt, to taste Add the potatoes in batches, and blanch until just tender but
not browned (the time will vary according to the size of the
1. Peel and cut the potatoes into sticks about 1/4 inch cuts). Transfer the potatoes to paper towels to drain.
square and 3 inches long. (The potatoes may be cut thicker, as 3. Heat the oil to 375°F and fry the potatoes again, until
desired.) Place the potatoes in cold water until ready to cook golden brown and cooked through. Drain well on paper tow-
to prevent discoloration; rinse, drain, and dry thoroughly. els. Season to taste with salt and serve immediately.
104   |  g r il l in g
 s at e h o f c h i c k e n

Spicy Peanut Sauce

S
ateh, also spelled satay, is a grilled dish that features
lemongrass, curry powder, and fish sauce.
makes 8 servings
makes 8 servings

2 tbsp peanut oil

3 lb boneless, skinless chicken breasts
½ cup minced yellow onion
½ cup peanut oil
¼ cup minced lemongrass, tender part only
1 lemongrass stalk, tender portion minced
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 wild lime leaf
1½ tsp red pepper flakes
½ tsp red pepper flakes
1 tbsp curry powder
½ tsp curry powder
1 tbsp honey
1¼ cups coconut milk
2 tbsp fish sauce
½ cup chicken broth, or more as needed
16 bamboo skewers
¼ cup creamy peanut butter
Spicy Peanut Sauce (recipe follows)
2 tbsp tamarind paste

1. Trim the chicken and cut into thin strips. 1 tbsp fish sauce

2. Combine the peanut oil, lemongrass, garlic, red pepper 1 tbsp dark brown sugar
flakes, curry powder, honey, and fish sauce to make a mar- 2 tsp lime juice
inade. Place the marinade in a zip-close bag, add the meat, ½ tsp salt
and toss to coat evenly. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at ¼ tsp ground black pepper
least 2 and up to 12 hours.
3. Soak the bamboo skewers in cool water for 30 minutes. 1. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Add
4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal the onion, lemongrass, garlic, lime leaf, red pepper flakes,
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- and curry powder. Sauté until the mixture is well blended
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in and aromatic, about 2 to 3 minutes.
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 2. Add the coconut milk, chicken broth, peanut butter,
5. Remove the chicken from the marinade, letting the ex- tamarind paste, fish sauce, and brown sugar. Simmer until
cess marinade drain off. Thread the chicken on the skewers, all the flavors are well combined, 15 to 20 minutes. Adjust to
1 strip per skewer. desired consistency with chicken broth, if necessary. Adjust

p oult ry   |  105
6. Grill the skewers over direct heat on the first side just the seasoning to taste with lime juice, salt, and pepper, if de-
until firm enough to turn, about 1 minute. Turn and grill until sired. Discard the lime leaf.
cooked through, about 2 minutes more. 3. Serve the sauce in a small bowl. Store any unused sauce
7. Serve immediately with the Spicy Peanut Sauce. in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
 jerked game hens
with Rice and Beans and Grilled Pineapple–Jícama Salsa

Y
ou can substitute chicken breast, pork chops, or rab- 5. Serve the game hens on a heated platter or individ-
bit for the game hens in this recipe; adjust the cooking ual plates with the rice and beans on the side and the salsa
times accordingly. spooned on top of the hens.
makes 6 servings

6 game hens
Jerk Rub
¾ cup Jerk Rub (recipe follows)

M
½ tsp salt ake sure you wear gloves when working with the
Rice and Beans (page 108) rub; if the oil from those Scotch bonnets comes any-
2 cups Grilled Pineapple–Jícama Salsa (page 109) where near sensitive skin, it burns like fire.
makes ¾ cup

1. Remove the backbone of each game hen by holding it

½ medium yellow onion, chopped
upright, with the backbone facing you. Run a knife down ei-
3 scallions, chopped
ther side to remove the bone, then lay it on its back and press
on the breast to flatten the hen. 1 Scotch bonnet, chopped

2. Rub the jerk seasoning on the game hens to coat evenly. 2 tbsp chopped thyme

(Wear gloves when working with the jerk seasoning.) Trans- 2 tsp ground allspice

fer to a shallow pan, cover, and let marinate in the refrigera- 1½ tsp ground cinnamon
tor for at least 8 and up to 12 hours. ½ tsp ground cloves
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- ½ tsp grated nutmeg
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are ¼ cup dark rum
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the ¼ cup soy sauce
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. ¼ cup vegetable oil
4. Brush off any excess rub from the game hens. Season the
hens with the salt. Grill the game hens over direct heat until Combine all the ingredients in a blender and purée to a
marked, about 4 minutes per side. Move the hens to indirect smooth, thick paste. Refrigerate until ready to use. Store any
106   |   g r il l i n g

heat and continue to grill, covered and turning as needed, unused rub in a covered container in the refrigerator for up
until cooked through (165°F), about 12 to 15 minutes more. to 3 days.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F Rice and Beans
F F F F F F F
Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf
F F F F F
I T
F F n some parts of the Caribbean, pigeon peas are used to
F F F F F F his basic pilaf has been given an Asian twist with the
F F F F F
F F F
F makes 6 servings
F F F F F F F F F
replace the kidney beans here for a dish known as rice
and peas.

F F F F F F
addition of scallions and sesame seeds, but it can be
modified to accompany almost any dish that you would like.
makes 6 servings
F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
2 slices bacon, diced
1 tbsp minced garlic
F F F F F F
1 lb dried red kidney beans, soaked overnight and drained F F F
1 tbsp vegetable oil

F
¼ cup minced yellow onion
F F
1 tbsp minced ginger F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
3 cups chicken broth
1 cup coconut milk
F
1 cup long-grain white rice
F F F F F F F F
½ cup wild rice
¾ cup brown rice
F
1 tsp salt F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F
½ tsp salt F F
6 scallions, chopped
1 tbsp chopped thyme
F F F F F F F F F F
½ cup thin-sliced scallions
F F F F
2½ cups chicken or vegetable broth

1½ tbsp sesame seeds (black or white) F F F F F F F

F F F
F F
¼ tsp ground black pepper

F F F
1. Cook the bacon over medium heat in a sauté pan until
F F F F F F F F
1 tbsp sesame oil

F F F F
1. Heat the vegetable oil in a 2-quart saucepot over medium
F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
the fat is rendered. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant,
about 30 seconds.
2. Add the beans and chicken broth, bring to a simmer, and
F F F F F F F F F
translucent, about 2 minutes.
F F
heat. Add the onion and ginger and sauté until the onion is

F
2. Add the wild and brown rice to the pan, and toast, stir-
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
cover. Cook until tender, about 50 minutes. (This can be done ring constantly, until a nutty aroma arises, about 1 minute.
in advance. Cool the cooked beans quickly and store them in Stir in the salt.
their cooking liquid in a covered container in the refrigerator 3. Add the broth and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low,
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
for up to 24 hours.) cover, and simmer until the broth has been absorbed by the
3. Add the coconut milk and rice to the beans. Simmer, cov- rice and it is just tender to the bite, about 40 minutes.
ered, until the rice is tender to the bite, about 20 minutes. 4. Fluff the rice with a fork and fold in the scallions, sesame
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
4. Remove from the heat and fold in the scallions and seeds, and sesame oil. Keep warm until ready to serve.
thyme. Season with the salt and pepper. Serve hot.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
108   |   g r il l i n g

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F Grilled Pineapple–
Jícama Salsa F F F F F F
Meyer Lemon Salsa
F F F F F
T
F F F F F F F he Meyer lemon, thought to be a cross between a lemon
F F F F F F
F FWF
F F F F F
hen you have the grill fired up, toss on a few things
to have on hand for quick salsas that feature the fla-
vor of the grill, like this one. To learn more about grilling
F F F F F F F F F F
and an orange, appears to have originated in China over

F
400 years ago. In 1908, Frank Meyer introduced the fruit in the
United States. At first, the trees were popular primarily as or-
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
pineapple, see page 210. namental plantings. Today, these juicy lemons with the mel-
makes 4½ cups low flavor are getting easier to find in food markets.
makes 2 cups
F 3 tbsp lime juice
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F
2 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp chopped cilantro
½ tsp salt, or to taste
F F F F F F F F F F
1 Meyer lemon

¾ tsp salt
F F F
1 cup minced shallots

F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F
½ tsp black pepper, or to taste
2 cups diced grilled pineapple
1 cup jícama julienne
F F F F F F F F F F
¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
¼ tsp ground black pepper
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F
¾ cup small-dice red onion

F
¾ cup small-dice red pepper
2 tsp minced jalapeño, or to taste
F F F F F F F F F F F
2 tsp Meyer lemon juice, optional

F F
1. Cut the whole lemon, unpeeled, into crosswise slices
F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
per in a salad bowl. Add the pineapple, jícama, onion, and
F F F F F F
1. Whisk together the lime juice, oil, cilantro, salt, and pep-
F F F F F
about 1/8 inch thick. Remove the seeds and cut the slices into
1/8-inch dice. Place the diced lemon in a mixing bowl.
F
2. Add the shallots and salt to the lemons, and stir to com-
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
peppers, and toss to combine well. Adjust seasoning to taste bine. Let the mixture sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
with salt and pepper. Refrigerate the salsa until ready to use. 3. Add the parsley, and gradually whisk in the oil until
Store any unused salsa in a covered container in the refriger- thoroughly combined. Season with salt and pepper. Add ad-
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
ator for up to 2 days. ditional lemon juice if desired.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r il l i n g  |   10 9
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 gr i l l e d b a s i l -l e m o n c o r n i s h g a m e h e ns
with Meyer Lemon Salsa

C
ornish game hens are a great size for the grill. Each 3. Remove the game hens from the marinade and brush off
bird serves one, and it is small enough to cook through any excess marinade. Season with the salt and pepper.
without drying out. 4. Grill the game hens over direct heat until marked, about
makes 8 servings 4 minutes per side. Move the hens to indirect heat and con-
tinue to grill, covered and turning as needed, until cooked
1 cup lemon juice
through (165°F), about 12 to 15 minutes more.
¼ cup olive oil
5. Serve the game hens on a heated platter or plates with
½ cup grated lemon zest the salsa on top.
¼ cup basil
¼ cup chopped mint
2 tbsp minced red jalapeño

8 Cornish game hens, halved (see Halving a Bird, below)

2 tbsp salt
1 tsp ground black pepper Halving a Bird
1 cup Meyer Lemon Salsa (page 109)

Remove the wingtips from the wings. Remove the backbone of the

1. Combine the lemon juice, oil, lemon zest, basil, mint, game hen by cutting through the ribs on either side of the backbone.

and jalapeño to make a marinade. Place the game hens in a Open the bird out flat, with the bones facing up. In the center of the

large, shallow pan. Pour the marinade over the top, and turn breast is a bone, the keel bone, that holds both sides of the breast to-

the hens to coat evenly. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up gether. Cut through the white membrane on the top of the keel bone.

to 12 hours. Hold the bird with both thumbs on the keel bone and bend the bird

2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. to open the bird out even further. The top of the keel bone will pop

If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn out enough to make it easy to grip.

down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- Grip the dark head of the keel bone and pull it out. If it breaks,

ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side cut around the part that remains to remove it. Remove the wishbone

of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. and cut through the skin to separate the game hen in half.

The Grilled Basil-Lemon Cornish Game Hen here is served with Black po ult ry   |  1 11
Bean Cakes (page 152) and Grilled Summer Squash (page 136).
 s p i t - ro a s t e d d u c k
with Orange-Ginger-Soy Glaze and Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf

S
pit-roasting is one of the earliest cooking tech- 3. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
niques. A duck on the spit emerges from the grill with coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
a crackling crisp skin and meat that is less greasy than you glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
might anticipate. Cutting the skin helps to render out the fat coals in an even bed.
for lots of flavor without as much grease. 4. Remove the ducks from the marinade and set aside, re-
makes 6 servings serving the marinade.
5. Bring the reserved marinade to a boil in a small sauce-
2 ducklings
pan and boil for 3 minutes to make a glaze. Remove from the
2 cups orange juice
heat and allow to cool. Add the chopped cilantro and orange
1 cup soy sauce zest. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
¼ cup grated ginger 6. Stuff the cavities of the ducks with the thyme, cilantro,
2 tbsp minced garlic and parsley sprigs, and the bay leaves. Season with salt and
½ cup chopped cilantro pepper. Thread the ducks on the steel rod of the rotisserie.
2 tbsp grated orange zest Place the rod on the rotisserie according to the manufactur-
Salt, to taste er’s instructions. Be sure to center the ducks on the rod prop-
Ground black pepper, to taste erly or they will roast unevenly
12 thyme sprigs 7. Spit-roast the ducks until browned and nearly cooked

12 cilantro sprigs through (140°F), about 1 to 11/2 hours. Brush the ducklings
with the glaze and continue to spit-roast, brushing with ad-
2 parsley sprigs
ditional glaze every 8 to 10 minutes, until the ducklings are
2 bay leaves
cooked through (165°F or to the temperature you prefer) and
Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf (page 108)
the skin is crisp and a rich brown, another 30 to 45 minutes.
8. Remove the duck from the grill and let rest for 20 min-
1. Trim the excess fat from the ducklings and remove the utes before cutting into pieces. Serve on a heated platter or
gizzard bag. Pat the ducks dry. Score the skin in a crosshatch plates with the Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf.
pattern, and set it in a shallow pan.
1 12   |   g r i l l in g

2. Combine the orange juice, soy sauce, ginger, and garlic

to make a marinade. Pour the marinade over the duck, cover, The Spit-Roasted Duck with Orange-Ginger-Soy Glaze is served with

and refrigerate for at least 2 and up to 12 hours. Turn the duck- Wild and Brown Rice Pilaf (page 108).

lings occasionally to marinate evenly.

 peppercorn rabbit
with Figs Wrapped in Prosciutto

W
e’ve taken our inspiration from a classic German with a good glaze, about 35 to 40 minutes. Remove from the
dish called Hasenpfeffer to produce the richly aro- heat and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
matic and spicy marinade. The figs and prosciutto balance 5. Grill the figs on the outer edges of the grill until warmed
the dish with some salt and sweetness. If you can’t find cher- through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and
vil, substitute parsley, chives, or tarragon. drizzle with the balsamic vinegar.
makes 8 servings 6. Serve the figs alongside the grilled rabbit and garnish
with the chervil.
2 rabbits, saddles and legs only
1½ cups Peppercorn Marinade (recipe follows)
12 fresh figs, halved Peppercorn Marinade
6 slices prosciutto, cut crosswise into quarters
makes 1½ cups
1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 tbsp salt 1 cup olive oil
1 tsp ground black pepper 12 cloves
1 tbsp aged balsamic vinegar 3 cinnamon sticks
¼ cup minced chervil 6 star anise pods
2 tsp crushed pink peppercorns
1. Place the rabbits in a large zip-close bag and pour 1 cup
2 tsp cracked black peppercorns
of the marinade over them. (Reserve the remaining mari-
12 allspice berries
nade for basting.) Seal the bag and turn to coat evenly. Let
½ cup balsamic vinegar
marinate in the refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 12 hours.
2 tsp salt
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
1 tsp ground black pepper
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the 1. Heat the olive oil, cloves, cinnamon, anise, pepper-
grill. Clean the cooking grate. corns, and allspice berries over low heat just until the oil has
1 14   |   g r il l i n g

3. Wrap each fig half in a strip of the prosciutto. Drizzle the warmed through and the aroma of the spices has been re-
extra-virgin olive oil over the figs. Set aside. leased, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat immediately
4. Remove the rabbits from the marinade and season with and let cool to room temperature. Store in a tightly capped
the salt and pepper. Grill over indirect heat, covered, turning bottle or jar in the refrigerator and use it within 3 weeks.
the rabbits every 10 minutes and brushing with some of the 2. Add the balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate
reserved marinade, until the meat is cooked through (165°F) until ready to use.
 vegetables

V
egeta bles on t he grill aren’t so unusual now, from the field to the market, they can lose a lot of moisture,
though at one time they were rarely if ever cooked on changing them from crisp and firm to shriveled and soft.
a grill. With careful preparation, and well-chosen flavorings Farmer’s markets and farm stands, grocery stores that fea-
and sauces, these dishes are vibrant and flavorful enough to ture local produce, or, if you have one, your own garden are
stand on their own as appetizers or even main courses. the best sources for fresh, vibrant vegetables.
There’s a way to grill almost any vegetable, from a leafy Keep vegetables cool until you are ready to cook them,
vegetable like radicchio or endive to dense vegetables, like give them a good rinse, and let them dry. It is especially im-
beets. Nearly everyone is familiar with such classic grilled portant to let vegetables dry well if they are going to be mar-
vegetables as zucchini, yellow squash, and eggplant, but inated before grilling.
we’ve gone well beyond those classics, drawing inspiration Denser vegetables can be blanched before cooking in boil-
from Russia, France, Greece, the Mediterranean, Italy, and ing salted water or by steaming until they are slightly tender.
the Shakers of Pennsylvania. This improves the texture and flavor of grilled vegetables by
shortening the time on the grill; that way, they don’t scorch
choosing vegetables for the grill and dry out on the outside before they are fully cooked on the
Look for firm, unblemished vegetables with bright colors. If inside. Another way to approach denser vegetables is to wrap
the leaves are still attached, they should be full, not limp or them in foil and put them on the grill to “steam” in their own
wilted. Root ends, if any, should be dry. As vegetables travel juices for a more intense flavor.

Sweet Corn with roasted garlic, scallion, and Roasted Acorn Squash with Grilled Vegetable Ragoût , 132
lime-chili Butters, 117 Grilled Belgian Endive, 133
Grilled Corn Velvet Soup with Lobster, 120 Grilled Radicchio Salad with Shaved Jícama, Oranges,
grilled plum Tomatoes with Basil Pesto, 121 and Hazelnut Vinaigrette, 135

Grilled Asparagus and Sweet Peppers, 123 Grilled Summer Squash, 136

Grilled Artichokes with Hazelnut Romesco Sauce, 124 Grilled Ratatouille, 137

Grilled Cauliflower with Brown Butter Sauce, 125 Grilled Fennel Salad with Oranges, Olives, and Cilantro, 138

Marinated Pepper Salad with Pine Nuts and Raisins, 126 grilled red Peppers with Orzo Salad Stuffing, 140

Mixed Grill of Garden Vegetables with Three Grilled Beet Salad with Walnuts, Cilantro, and Tomatoes, 142
Mediterranean Sauces, 128 Grilled Leeks , 144
1 16   |  g r i l l in g

Grilled Shiitake Mushrooms with Soy-Sesame Glaze, 131 Grilled Sweet Onions, 144
 sweet corn
with Roasted Garlic, Scallion, and Lime-Chili Butters

T
he flavored butters we suggest here are simple to sary, until the corn kernels are soft and grill marked, about
adjust to feature the flavors you like best. It doesn’t 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the corn from the grill. Serve im-
make sense to try to make less than 1 cup of flavored butter, mediately with your choice of butter.
but fortunately, flavored butters keep in the freezer for sev-
eral weeks.
makes 8 servings Roasted Garlic Butter
2 tbsp vegetable oil makes 1 cup

8 ears corn, shucked

2 heads garlic
2 tsp salt
2 tsp vegetable oil
1 tsp ground black pepper
½ tsp salt
½ cup Roasted Garlic Butter, Scallion Butter,
1 cup softened butter
or Lime-Chili Butter (recipes follow)

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Leave one burner 1. Place each head of garlic on a square of aluminum foil
off. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn large enough to enclose the entire head. Drizzle with the
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- oil, and season with salt. Wrap the garlic in the foil and seal
ing of white ash. Push the coals to one side of the grill. Clean closed to make pouches.
the cooking grate. 2. Grill over indirect medium heat (or roast in a 400°F oven)
2. Lightly oil the corn and season with salt and pepper. until tender and any juices that escape are deep brown, about
Grill the corn, covered, over indirect heat, turning as neces- 30 to 40 minutes. (recipe continues on page 119)

left to right  Work the butter with a

wooden spoon or using the paddle attach-

ve g e ta b l e s  |  1 17
ment in a mixer until it is soft enough to

incorporate the flavoring ingredients; mix

the ingredients until they are evenly incor-

porated into the butter. Roll the butter into

a rough log inside the plastic wrap. Use a

ruler or metal spatula to tighten the plastic

wrap around the butter and even out the

diameter of the cylinder.

 3. Let the garlic cool. Squeeze the roasted cloves from the Lime-Chili Butter
papery skins, and mash to a paste. Blend with the softened
makes 1 cup
butter, then shape as described below.
1 cup softened butter
3 tbsp lime juice

Scallion Butter 1½ tsp dried oregano

1½ tsp chili powder
makes 1 cup
1½ tsp hot chili powder
1 cup softened butter 1½ tsp sweet Hungarian paprika
B/d cup minced scallions ¼ tsp ground cumin
¼ tsp minced garlic ¼ tsp Worcestershire sauce
1½ tsp chopped parsley 2 to 3 dashes Tabasco sauce
1½ tsp soy sauce Pinch garlic powder
1½ tsp lemon juice Pinch onion powder

Blend all the ingredients together, then shape the finished Blend all the ingredients together, then shape the finished
butter as described below. butter as described below.

Flavored Butters

Flavored butters, or compound butters as they are also known, are onto a lined plate or baking sheet, then refrigerate or freeze the ro-

simple to make. You just blend flavoring ingredients into softened settes until they are firm.

butter. We’ve suggested some flavoring combinations here, but you One efficient option is to shape the mixed butter into a cylinder.

can let your imagination run wild. Try adding minced sun-dried to- Cut a large sheet of plastic wrap. Mound the butter about 3 inches

matoes and pesto to the butter (see page 121 for a pesto recipe), olives, away from one of the long sides of the wrap. Fold the plastic wrap

capers, fresh herbs of all descriptions, citrus zest, spices, or horserad- over the mound and then tighten the wrap around the butter. Use

ish. Choose your flavors with an eye to the food you want to serve a straight edge, like a ruler or the edge of a sheet pan, to tighten up

ve g e ta b l e s  |  1 19
the butter with, however. The flavor should complement but not over- the cylinder to keep the diameter of the log even. Once rolled, twist

whelm the dish. the ends to press out any remaining air pockets and seal the wrap

After you blend the butter, it can be handled in a number of dif- around the butter. Chill the butter until it is firm enough to slice.

ferent ways. Simply pack it into a small crock or bowl to use as a Store flavored butters in the refrigerator for 3 or 4 days. If you

spread for sandwiches or to add as a finish to grilled vegetables. An- plan to hold on to the butter for longer than that, keep it in the

other option is to pipe the butter into rosettes, about 1 tbsp each, freezer for up to 3 weeks.
 g r i l l e d c o r n v e lv e t s o u p
with Lobster

L
ump cr abmeat may be substituted for the lobster. If 2. Lightly oil the corn and season with salt and pepper.
you choose to omit the Red Pepper Ketchup, garnish the Grill the corn, covered, over indirect heat, turning as neces-
soup with scallion greens that have been thinly sliced on the sary, until the corn kernels are soft and grill marked, about
diagonal. 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the corn from the grill.
makes 8 servings 3. Allow the corn to cool to room temperature. Cut the ker-
nels from the cobs. Scrape cobs to remove any remaining
2 tbsp vegetable oil
kernels from the cob, catching the juices in a bowl.
6 ears corn, shucked
4. Melt the butter in a soup pot over low heat; add the scal-
2 tsp salt, or to taste lions, onions, jalapeños, and ginger, and sauté until soft-
1 tsp ground black pepper, or to taste ened, about 5 minutes. Add the corn kernels (along with any
4 tsp butter juices you may have scraped from the cob) and cook gently
½ cup thin-sliced scallions for 2 minutes.
2 cups medium-dice yellow onion 5. Add the broth and thyme. Bring to a simmer and cook
2 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and minced until the soup is very flavorful, about 20 minutes. Allow the
2 tbsp minced ginger soup to cool for 10 minutes.
6 cups chicken broth 6. Discard the thyme sprigs and purée the soup in a blender

2 thyme sprigs until very smooth. Return the soup to a clean pot and stir in
the cream. Bring the soup to a bare simmer and add the soy
1B/d cup heavy cream or evaporated skim milk
sauce. If the soup is too thick, adjust the consistency with ad-
3 tbsp soy sauce
ditional chicken broth. Adjust seasoning to taste with salt
½ lb cooked lobster meat (about two 2-pound lobsters)
and pepper.
¼ cup Red Pepper Ketchup (page 187), optional
7. Garnish each serving of soup with the lobster meat and
Red Pepper Ketchup.
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Leave one burner
off. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
12 0   |  g r il l i n g

ing of white ash. Push the coals to one side of the grill. Clean
the cooking grate.
 g r i l l e d p l u m t o m at o e s
with Basil Pesto

Basil Pesto
T
his is an ideal dish for summer, when both tomatoes
and basil are in such abundance.
makes 1 cup
makes 8 servings

2 garlic cloves, peeled

16 plum tomatoes, halved
1 cup packed basil leaves
2 tbsp olive oil
1½ tsp grated lemon zest
2 tsp salt
4 tsp lemon juice
1 tsp ground black pepper
¼ cup toasted pine nuts
1 cup Basil Pesto (recipe follows)
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
B/i tsp salt
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium; leave one burner off. If you
Pinch ground black pepper
are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down
¼ cup olive oil
until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the
grill. Clean the cooking grate. 1. Combine the garlic, basil, lemon zest, lemon juice, pine
2. Brush the tomatoes with the olive oil and season with nuts, Parmesan, salt, and pepper in a food processor; pulse
the salt and pepper. until finely chopped. Add the olive oil in a thin stream with
3. Grill the tomatoes over indirect heat until cooked the food processor running and puree until fully incorpo-
through, about 6 minutes per side (start with the cut side fac- rated and a thick paste forms.
ing down). 2. The pesto is ready to serve now or it may be stored in the
4. Spoon a mounded teaspoon of the Basil Pesto over each refrigerator for up to 3 days.
tomato half and serve immediately.

ve g e ta b l e s  |  12 1
 g r i l l e d a s pa r a g u s a n d s w e e t p e p p e r s

C
hoose thick spears of asparagus for the grill. The fla- coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
vor is richer. We strongly suggest peeling the stems for glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
the best texture. coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
makes 8 servings 3. Remove the asparagus and peppers from the marinade
and grill over direct heat until browned on both sides, about
2 lb asparagus, trimmed
5 to 7 minutes on each side.
4 red peppers, cored and quartered
4 thyme sprigs
1 rosemary sprig Trimming and Peeling Asparagus
2 garlic cloves, sliced
½ cup olive oil To trim asparagus, hold a spear with both hands and bend the spear
Juice of 1 lemon until it snaps. Discard the stem end. If your asparagus is too thick to

Zest of 1 lemon bend easily, you can simply trim away the woody portion of the stem.

1 tsp salt Peel asparagus carefully. If you use too much pressure, you could

1 tsp ground black pepper remove too much of the flesh of the asparagus and the spear could

snap again. Instead, lay the asparagus flat on your cutting board and
½ tsp crushed red pepper
then peel, rolling the asparagus to get to all sides. Peel the lower half

1. Combine all the ingredients in a zip-close bag. Let mari- of each spear. It’s easiest if the surface you work on is about 3 inches

nate in the refrigerator for at least 2 and up to 8 hours. higher than your worktable or counter. That way, you won’t bang

2. Preheat a gas grill to medium heat. If you are using a char- your knuckles.

ve g e ta b l es  |  12 3
The time it takes to cook asparagus depends on how thick the spears

are. It may be necessary to adjust the cooking time so that the aspar-

agus is ready to eat at the same time the peppers are done.
 grilled artichokes
with Hazelnut Romesco Sauce

S
elect the smallest artichokes you can find forth is are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
dish. Whatever the size of your artichoke, the leaves the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
should be firmly attached. 6. Remove the artichokes from the marinade and grill un-
makes 8 servings covered over direct heat, turning often, until golden, about
10 minutes.
2 bay leaves
7. Serve the artichoke quarters on serving plates with the
1 lemon, halved
Hazelnut Romesco Sauce drizzled over the top. See photo on
8 artichokes page 64.
½ tsp salt
½ tsp pepper
¾ cup olive oil Hazelnut Romesco Sauce
3 garlic cloves, sliced
makes 2 cups
2 cups Hazelnut Romesco Sauce (recipe follows)
2 ancho chiles
1. Add the bay leaves and 1 lemon half to 2 quarts of water 2 red peppers, roasted (see Roasting Peppers, page 101)
in a large stockpot. Season with the salt and pepper, and 3 garlic cloves
bring to a simmer. 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2. Trim the stems of each artichoke and peel them to ex-
1½ tsp Spanish paprika
pose the tender flesh. Remove the outer petals to expose the
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
soft, light green petals toward the center. Slice off the top 1
2 tbsp tomato paste
inch of each artichoke.
2 cups ground hazelnuts
3. Add the artichokes to the simmering water. Cover the
½ tsp salt, or to taste
pan and simmer over medium-low heat until tender, about
20 minutes. Remove the artichokes from the water and allow
to cool. 1. Place the ancho chiles in a small saucepan and add
4. Quarter each artichoke and remove the hairy choke enough water to cover. Bring to a boil, remove from the heat,
12 4   |  g r il l i n g

from the center of each. Place the artichoke quarters in a and let steep for 20 minutes. Strain the chiles.
zip-close bag. Add the olive oil, garlic, and the juice of the 2. Combine the chiles, roasted red peppers, garlic, vine-
remaining lemon half. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at gar, paprika, cayenne, tomato paste, and hazelnuts. Purée to
least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours. a smooth consistency. Let rest overnight in the refrigerator to
5. Preheat a gas grill to medium heat. If you are using a develop full flavor. Add the salt before serving.
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
 g r i l l e d c au l i f l o w e r
with Brown Butter Sauce

T
his has a very different but delicious flavor that might 3. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the cauliflower
surprise people. The cauliflower gets crispy on the out- slices until they are half cooked and you can easily stick a
side and is still a little creamy on the inside. The brown but- paring knife about halfway into the stem of the cauliflower,
ter sauce adds a nutty flavor and a rich texture and sheen. about 3 to 4 minutes.
Very tasty. 4. Drain the cauliflower and let dry for 5 minutes. Brush
makes 8 servings the cauliflower with the olive oil and season with the salt and
pepper.
2 heads cauliflower
5. Grill the cauliflower until there are ample grill marks,
½ cup olive oil
about 5 minutes. Turn the cauliflower 90 degrees and grill
2 tsp salt until there are crosshatch marks on the cauliflower, another
1 tsp ground black pepper 5 minutes. Turn over and grill until the slices are tender in
½ cup butter the center and they can be pierced easily with a paring knife,
about 10 minutes more.
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- 6. Melt the butter in a small pan over medium heat (about
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are 5 minutes before the cauliflower slices are done cooking).
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the Bring the butter to a light simmer, stirring constantly. Con-
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. tinue to simmer the butter while stirring until it turns a light
2. Cut each cauliflower into 1/2-inch-thick slices. Trim the brown and gives off a nutty aroma, 1 to 2 minutes.
thick part of the stem away but leave enough of the stem in- 7. Serve the cauliflower immediately with the brown but-
tact so that the slices don’t fall apart. ter sauce drizzled over the top. See photo on page 98.

ve g e ta b l es   |   125
 m a r i n at e d p e p p e r s a l a d
with Pine Nuts and Raisins

F
eel free to add other ingredients to this dish, including 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
thin slices of celery, fresh basil or cilantro, or red onions. coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
It makes a great accompaniment to grilled, roasted, or baked glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
meats, fish, or poultry. coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
makes 8 servings 2. Brush the peppers with the olive oil and season with the
salt and pepper.
4 red peppers, cored and quartered
3. Grill the peppers until marked on each side and tender
4 yellow peppers, cored and quartered
throughout but not mushy, about 5 minutes per side.
¼ cup olive oil 4. Cut the grilled peppers into 1/4-inch-thick slices and drain
2 tsp salt, or to taste in a sieve or colander for 2 hours.
1 tsp ground black pepper, or to taste 5. Combine the peppers with the extra-virgin olive oil, rai-
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil sins, pine nuts, parsley, and garlic. Adjust seasoning to taste
1 cup golden raisins with salt and pepper, if desired.
1 cup toasted pine nuts
B/d cup chopped parsley
1 tbsp minced garlic

This simple roasted pepper salad can be served as a side dish at a

picnic, or try serving a grilled breast of chicken or pork chop on a

bed of it.
12 6   |  g r i l l in g
 mixed grill of garden vegetables
with Three Mediterranean Sauces

T
his is a vegetarian’s dream. Just the grilled vegeta- 2. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add 1 tbsp of the
bles by themselves are fantastic, but with the sauces, lemon juice and 1 tsp of the salt. Add the artichokes and sim-
they get even tastier. To keep onions from falling apart on the mer until tender, about 10 minutes. Remove the artichokes
grill, use toothpicks or skewers to pin the layers together. and let cool to room temperature.
makes 8 servings 3. Bring a second large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add 2
tsp salt and then, working in batches, add the fennel, carrots,
3 artichokes
and asparagus, cooking until partially tender, 3 to 4 minutes.
½ lemon
Drain all the cooked vegetables well and let cool slightly.
2 tbsp lemon juice Score the flesh of the zucchini with the tines of a fork.
4 tsp salt 4. Combine the olive oil, garlic, the remaining 1 tsp salt, and
3 fennel bulbs, trimmed and quartered the pepper in a large bowl. Add all the parcooked vegetables,
18 baby carrots, peeled the zucchini, the potatoes, and the onions, and toss to coat.
18 asparagus stalks, trimmed Marinate the vegetables in the refrigerator for at least 30 min-
3 zucchini, trimmed and halved lengthwise utes and up to 4 hours.
12 new potatoes, parboiled, halved 5. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
2 red onions, quartered grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
½ cup olive oil ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
3 tbsp minced garlic
6. Grill all of the vegetables on both sides until tender but
1 tsp ground black pepper
not mushy. Place the vegetables on the grill in the following
18 mushrooms, trimmed
order: red peppers, yellow peppers, zucchini, carrots, fennel,
2 red peppers, cored and quartered
onions, mushrooms, potatoes, asparagus, and artichokes.
2 yellow peppers, cored and quartered
Grill the vegetables, turning as necessary, until they begin to
1 cup Italian-style Sauce (recipe follows)
take on color and are cooked through, about 8 to 12 minutes,
1 cup Greek-style Sauce (recipe follows) depending on the vegetable.
1 cup North African–style Sauce (recipe follows) 7. Arrange the grilled vegetables on a platter and drizzle
12 8   |  g r i l l i n g

with the remaining lemon juice. Serve with the 3 sauces at

1. Remove the tough outer leaves from the artichokes. Cut room temperature.
the stem away from the artichoke, leaving about 1 inch of the
stem still attached. Cut the artichokes in half and remove the The grilled vegetables can be assembled on one platter and dressed

choke. Rub the cut side of the artichoke with the lemon half. with the sauces, or the sauces can be served on the side
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F FF F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F FF F F F F F
F F
F FF F F
Italian-style Sauce
F F F F F F F
F F F
North African-style Sauce
F F F F FF F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 1 cup makes 1 cup

2 cups roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley ½ cup olive oil

¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup lemon juice
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 tbsp grated Parmesan cheese 3 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tbsp lemon juice 2 tbsp chopped cilantro
¾ tsp minced garlic 1½ tsp minced garlic
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
¾ tsp salt ¾ tsp paprika
¼ tsp ground black pepper ¾ tsp ground cumin
¾ tsp salt
F Combine all the ingredients. The sauce is ready to serve now
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
¼ tsp ground black pepper
or it can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
Pinch ground cayenne pepper

F F F F F F F Combine all the ingredients. Store any unused sauce in the

F F F F F F F
F F
F F
makes 1 cup
F F F
Greek-style Sauce

F F F F F F F
F F F
refrigerator for up to 2 days.

F F F F FF F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 cup feta cheese
¼ cup minced dill
¼ cup lemon juice
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 tsp salt
¾ tsp ground black pepper

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
Combine all the ingredients. Store any unused sauce in the
refrigerator for up to 2 days.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
13 0   |  g r i l l in g

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F FF F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F FF F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 g r i l l e d s h i i t a k e m u s h ro o m s
with Soy-Sesame Glaze

R
eserv e the stems from fresh shiitake mushrooms, scallions until marked on all sides and cooked through,
rinse them well, and simmer them in broth until the about 2 minutes on each side.
broth is flavored. Use the infused-broth for a subtle mush- 5. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and serve at once.
room flavor in other dishes, such as the Grilled Ratatouille note: Once grilled, the mushrooms can be returned
on page 137. to the marinade, allowed to cool to room temperature, and
makes 8 servings added to salads or other dishes as a garnish.

2 lb shiitake mushrooms, stems removed

8 scallions, left whole
Soy-Sesame Glaze
1¼ cups Soy Sesame Glaze (recipe follows)
makes 1¼ cups
2 tbsp toasted sesame seeds

½ cup soy sauce or tamari

1. Wipe the mushroom caps with a soft cloth to clean. If de- ¼ cup water
sired, slice large caps in half. ¼ cup peanut or corn oil
2. Add the mushrooms and scallions to the glaze and mar- ¼ cup tahini paste
inate in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes or up to 1 hour.
1 tbsp sesame oil
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
1 tbsp minced garlic
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
2 tsp minced ginger
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
½ tsp crushed red pepper flakes, optional
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
4. Remove the mushrooms and scallions from the glaze, Combine all the ingredients. Keep the mixture refrigerated
letting any excess glaze drain off. Grill the mushrooms and until ready to use.

ve g e ta b l es  |  13 1
 ro a s t e d a c o r n s q u a s h
with Grilled Vegetable Ragoût

makes 8 servings flesh is easily pierced with a fork or the tip of a paring knife,
about 1 hour and 10 minutes.
2 acorn squash, halved and seeded
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a charcoal
Salt, as needed
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
Ground black pepper, as needed
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
1 tbsp softened butter an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2 carrots, peeled, cut into thick sticks, and blanched 4. Brush all of the vegetables with the oil and season with
1 Idaho potato, thickly sliced and parboiled salt and pepper. Grill the carrots, potato, onions, mushrooms,
2 red onions, thickly sliced and asparagus uncovered over direct heat, turning as neces-
6 cremini mushrooms, stems removed sary, until tender, about 6 to 10 minutes.
6 asparagus stalks, peeled and blanched 5. Remove the vegetables from the grill and let sit until cool
¼ cup vegetable oil enough to handle. Cut the carrot, potato, and onions into 1/3-
¼ cup heavy cream inch dice. Cut the mushrooms into equal-sized wedges. Cut
1 tbsp chopped dill the asparagus into 1/3-inch-thick slices. Combine all of the
vegetables in a large bowl.
1 tbsp roughly chopped parsley
6. Bring the cream to a boil in a small saucepan. Add the
1 tsp chopped basil
herbs to the cream, reduce the heat, and simmer until re-
1 tbsp sliced chives
duced by half, about 10 minutes. Add the butter and stir to
¼ cup butter
melt. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add this mixture
to the roasted vegetables and set aside.
1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. 7. Turn the roasted squash cut-side up in the pan. Spoon
2. Season the acorn cavities with salt and pepper. Brush about 11/2 cups of the grilled vegetable ragoût into each cavity.
the bottom of a jellyroll pan or baking pan with the softened Place the pan in the oven and cook until the filling is heated
butter. Place the squash cut-side down in a baking pan and through, about 10 to 15 minutes. Cut each squash half into
cover the pan with foil. Roast the squash in the oven until the quarters and serve immediately.
132   |  g r i l l in g
 grilled belgian endive

T
he sweet and sour flavors from the vinegar, soy sauce, 1. In a large bowl, mix together the soy sauce, balsamic
and chili sauce are a brilliant counterpoint to Belgian vinegar, chili sauce, sake or water, olive oil, ginger, scallions,
endive’s pleasantly bitter taste. and garlic to make a marinade.
makes 8 servings 2. Place the endive in the marinade and toss to coat. Let
marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 1
½ cup soy sauce
hour.
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
3. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
2 tbsp sweet-and-sour chili sauce grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
½ cup sake or water ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
½ cup olive oil an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2 tbsp fine-grated ginger 4. Grill the endive on a perforated grilling pan over the
¾ cup thin-sliced scallions hottest part of the grill with the lid of the grill closed, rotating
3 tbsp minced garlic the pan frequently so that the endive leaves get only slightly
8 heads Belgian endive, cleaned and quartered charred, about 10 minutes. See photo on page 61.

ve g e ta b l es  |  13 3
 grilled radicchio salad
with Shaved Jícama, Oranges, and Hazelnut Vinaigrette

R
adicchio is a red-leafed Italian chicory with a slightly 4. Mix together the radicchio, jícama, chives, and orange
bitter flavor. Choose heads that have crisp, full-colored segments. Add the vinaigrette and toss to coat evenly.
leaves with no signs of browning. 5. Mound the salad on a chilled platter or plates and gar-
makes 8 servings nish with the pepper flakes and mixed olives. Drizzle with
the reduced orange juice and serve immediately.
¼ cup orange juice
2 heads radicchio, quartered
6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Hazelnut Vinaigrette
1½ tsp salt, or to taste
makes 2 cups
½ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste
2 jícama, peeled and coarse-grated ½ cup Champagne vinegar
3 tbsp minced chives 2 tbsp Dijon mustard
3 oranges, peeled and cut into segments 1½ tsp granulated sugar
½ cup Hazelnut Vinaigrette (recipe follows) 2 shallots, minced
½ tsp red pepper flakes 1¼ cups olive oil
18 mixed olives, pitted and cut into thin slivers ¼ cup hazelnut oil
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley
1. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
1 tbsp minced chives
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
2 tbsp fine-chopped toasted hazelnuts
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
1 tsp salt
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Simmer the orange juice in a small, heavy saucepan over ½ tsp coarse-ground black pepper

medium heat to reduce by half. Set aside.

3. Coat the radicchio quarters evenly with the olive oil 1. Combine the vinegar, mustard, sugar, and shallots. Whisk
and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Grill over a medium fire in the oils gradually. Add the herbs and nuts, and season with

ve g e ta b l e s   |  13 5
until they are wilted and the color has changed, about 6 min- the salt and pepper.
utes. Remove the radicchio from the grill and let sit until cool 2. Refrigerate until ready to use. The vinaigrette is ready to
enough to handle. Cut the radicchio into 1/8-inch strips. serve now or it may be stored in the refrigerator up to 4 days.

If the outside leaves of the radicchio get charred while it is grilling,

discard just those outer leaves. They will add an unpleasant bitter

flavor to the salad.

 grilled summer squash

T
he squash can be cut into a variety of shapes, from 2. Cut the zucchini and squash lengthwise into 1/4-inch-
noodles to half-moons to diamonds or triangles, so feel thick strips using a mandoline or a chef’s knife. Place the
free to experiment. The amount of usable squash may vary, strips in a zip-close bag and pour the marinade over the veg-
depending on the shape that you choose. etables. Let marinate in the refrigerator for at least 30 min-
makes 8 servings utes and up to 4 hours.
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
4 garlic cloves, minced
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
½ cup rough-chopped parsley
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the
2 tbsp thyme leaves coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
½ cup lemon juice 4. Remove the vegetables from the marinade and allow
1 cup olive oil excess marinade to drain off. Season the slices with the re-
3 tsp salt maining salt and pepper. Grill uncovered over direct heat,
1½ tsp ground black pepper turning as necessary, until marked on both sides and tender,
4 zucchini about 8 to 10 minutes.
4 yellow squash 5. Remove the vegetables from the grill and cut lengthwise
into 1/4-inch-wide julienne to make grilled squash noodles.
1. Mix together the garlic, parsley, thyme, lemon juice, Serve immediately. See photo on page 110.
olive oil, 2 tsp of the salt, and 1 tsp of the pepper to make a
marinade.
13 6   |  g r il l in g
 g r i l l e d r at at o u i l l e

Y
ou can grill all the vegetables for this dish a day or 2. Lightly brush the pepper, eggplant, zucchini, mush-
two before you make the ratatouille. rooms, and tomatoes with about 1/4 cup of the oil and season
makes 8 servings with salt and pepper.
3. Grill the vegetables until they have grill marks and are
1 green pepper, cored and quartered
tender-crisp, about 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the vege-
1 eggplant, trimmed and cut into ½-inch-thick slices
table. Remove from the grill and let set until cool enough to
2 zucchini, trimmed and quartered lengthwise handle. Roughly chop the vegetables.
2 cups white mushrooms, stems removed 4. Heat the remaining oil in a large pan over medium heat.
4 plum tomatoes, halved Add the onions and sauté until translucent and just beginning
½ cup olive oil to color, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté until fra-
Salt, to taste grant, about 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and cook until it
Ground black pepper, to taste turns a deep color and gives off a sweet aroma, 1 to 2 minutes.
1 red onion, diced small 5. Add the green pepper, zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant,
1 tbsp minced garlic and tomatoes in that order, allowing each to soften before
1 tbsp tomato paste adding the next.
6. Add the broth, cover, and let the vegetables stew until
½ cup chicken broth
completely tender, about 15 minutes. Adjust seasoning to taste
1 tbsp chopped oregano
with salt and pepper, and add the fresh herbs. Serve immedi-
1 tbsp thyme leaves
ately or cool and store for later use.
2 tsp chopped rosemary

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium heat. If you are using a

charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

ve g e tab l e s  |  137
 grilled fennel salad
with Oranges, Olives, and Cilantro

W
hen you can find small fennel bulbs, use them in- 2. Trim the fennel to remove the tops (reserve some of the
stead. They are more tender and will cook more fronds for garnish) and some of the root end. Cut the fennel
quickly. You’ll need 8 small bulbs to replace the 3 average- into quarters or sixths, depending upon size. Trim some of
sized fennel we used below. the core from each piece, leaving enough of the core to hold
makes 8 servings the fennel together as it cooks.
3. Combine the red onion with 1 tbsp of the vinegar and
3 fennel bulbs
let the onions rest until they turn a bright pink, about 20
¼ cup thin-sliced red onion
minutes.
2 tbsp red wine vinegar 4. Blend together the remaining vinegar, the orange juice,
B/d cup orange juice olive oil, salt, pepper, coriander, and cayenne. Add the
2 tbsp olive oil trimmed fennel and toss to coat evenly. Let marinate in the
½ tsp salt refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 4 hours.
¼ tsp ground black pepper 5. Remove the fennel from the marinade, reserving the
¼ tsp ground coriander marinade to baste the fennel as it grills. Grill the fennel over
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper indirect heat, turning every 10 minutes and brushing with
3 orange slices or segments some of marinade, until tender, about 20 minutes.

B/d cup oil-cured black olives 6. Move the fennel to the hottest part of the grill, and cook
over direct heat until the fennel is browned and fully cooked,
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium heat; leave one burner off. another 10 to 15 minutes.
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn 7. Combine the grilled fennel with the oranges, olives, and
down until the coals are glowing red with a light coating of reserved fennel fronds. Drizzle with any remaining mari-
white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the nade, top with the red onions, and serve at room tempera-
grill. Clean the cooking grate. ture or chilled.
13 8   |  g r il l i n g

Fennel pairs well with a variety of flavor profiles, so feel free to ex-

periment with ingredients that are available to you.

 grilled red peppers
with Orzo Salad Stuffing

W
hen you are choosing your peppers at the market, Add the orzo and cook until just tender to the bite (al dente),
look for ones with slightly tapered bottoms so the about 9 minutes. Drain the pasta and rinse briefly with cold
peppers will rest at an incline while they are being grilled. water. Drain well.
Peppers with a blocky, square shape are also good, if you can 4. Transfer the orzo to a bowl and drizzle with 1 tbsp of the
find them. olive oil. Add the Asiago, thyme, and lemon juice, and fold
makes 8 servings the mixture together until evenly blended. Adjust seasoning
to taste with additional lemon juice, salt, and pepper, if de-
1B/d cups small-dice pancetta
sired. Set aside.
4 tbsp olive oil
5. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
2 cups diced leeks If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
Salt, as needed down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
Ground black pepper, as needed ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
1¾ cup orzo of the grill.
1½ cups grated Asiago cheese 6. Cut just around the stem of each red pepper with a par-
2 tsp minced thyme ing knife and remove the stem and the seeds. Remove the
2 tsp lemon juice, or to taste ribs from the peppers as well, if possible. Gently spoon the
8 red peppers orzo stuffing into each pepper (about 3/4 cup per pepper). The
filling should come up to about 1/4 inch from the top of each
1. Fry the pancetta over medium-low heat in a sauté pan pepper. Brush each pepper with the remaining olive oil and
until the fat is rendered and the pancetta is crispy, about 12 season with salt and pepper.
minutes. Drain the pancetta on paper towels. 7. Grill the peppers over indirect heat, turning every 5
2. Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over minutes, until tender, about 20 minutes. Move the peppers
medium heat and add the leeks to the pan. Cook until slightly to the hottest part of the grill and cook over direct heat, turn-
browned, about 6 minutes. Lightly season the leeks with salt ing every 2 to 3 minutes, until the filling is heated through
and pepper. and the flesh is tender and slightly charred on the outside,
3. Bring 3 cups water to a boil and season with 1 tsp salt. about 10 minutes more. Serve immediately.
1 40   |  g r il l i n g
 grilled beet salad
with Walnuts, Cilantro, and Tomatoes

T
he walnut sauce for this salad draws its inspiration pierce each beet once or twice. Lightly coat the beets with
from a Russian favorite, most often paired with grilled about 2 tbsp of the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
or roasted chicken. The heat from the jalapeño can be aug- 3. Place the beets on the grill over indirect low heat and
mented with a few shakes of red pepper flakes, if you like. roast slowly, turning every 15 to 20 minutes, until they look
makes 8 servings puckered and dark, about 1 hour and 20 minutes.
4. Combine the onions with 1 tbsp of the vinegar and let
12 gold baby beets
marinate in the refrigerator until the onions turn a bright
12 red baby beets
pink, about 20 minutes.
6 tbsp olive oil, or as needed 5. Let the beets rest until cool enough to handle, then re-
Salt, as needed move the skins. Cut the beets into very thin slices or dice
Ground black pepper, as needed small. (Wear gloves when you are working with beets to keep
½ cup thin-sliced red onion the juice from staining your hands.)
¼ cup red wine vinegar 6. Combine the remaining 4 tbsp olive oil, the remaining 3
¼ cup orange juice tbsp red wine vinegar, the orange juice, 1/2 tsp salt, and 1/4 tsp
1 cup small-dice tomatoes pepper. Stir in the tomatoes, walnuts, cilantro, jalapeño, and
C/d cup toasted walnuts marinated onions. Pour this mixture over the sliced beets
½ cup coarse-chopped cilantro leaves and toss gently. Let the beets marinate in the refrigerator for
at least 11/2 and up to 8 hours before serving.
1 jalapeño, minced

1. Preheat a gas grill to low. If you are using a charcoal grill, If you can find candy-stripe beets, substitute them for some of the

build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing beets called for in the recipe. They will add another level of color to

red with a heavy coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an this already colorful salad.

even bed on one side of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Trim the beet greens, leaving 1 inch of the top, and re-
move the root end. Scrub well under cold running water and
1 42   |   g r il l i n g
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F
grilled leeks
F F F F F F F
F F F
g r i l l e d s w e e t onions
F F F F F F F F
F F LF
F are removed.
F F F F F F F F F
eeks tend to trap dirt and sand in their layers. Be sure
to rinse them well in plenty of cool water until all traces

F FS F
F F F F
w eet onions, like Vidalia and Walla-Walla, are per-

F
fect for the grill. They have a high moisture and sugar
content. This simple dish makes the most of these seasonal
F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 8 servings treats.
makes 8 servings
8 leeks
F ¼ cup olive oil
F F F F F F 4 Vidalia onions
F F F F F F
F F F
F
2 tbsp lemon juice

F
1 tbsp chopped marjoram
1 tbsp chopped oregano
F F F F F F F F F F F
2 tsp salt

½ tsp minced rosemary

F F F
1 tsp ground black pepper
F F F F F F F F
F F F
F
1 tsp salt

F
¼ tsp ground black pepper
F F F F F F F F F F F
½ tsp minced thyme
¼ cup butter F
¼ cup balsamic vinegar
F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
F F F F F F F F F F F F
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a charcoal
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Trim the leeks to remove the roots and coarse green
F F F F F F F F F F F F
ing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the coals
in an even bed on one side of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Cut eight 12-inch squares of aluminum foil. Peel the on-
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
leaves and rinse thoroughly. (If you are using medium-sized ions and trim the root end. (Be careful to leave the core in
leeks, cut them in half but leave the root end intact.) Let the place in order to hold each onion together as it cooks.) Make
leeks drain or blot them dry. 3 or 4 cuts across the top of each onion, cutting only two-
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
3. Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, marjoram, oregano, thirds of the way down to create 6 to 8 partially cut wedges.
salt, and pepper to make a marinade. 3. Set each onion in the center of a double-layered foil
4. Place the leeks on the grill over indirect heat and brush square, root-end down. Sprinkle the onions with the salt,
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
lightly with some of the marinade. Grill, turning every 5 to pepper, and herbs, and top each with 1 tbsp butter. Pull the
6 minutes and brushing with additional marinade, until the foil up over the onion, creating a pouch and leaving the top of
leeks are tender, about 20 to 25 minutes. Move the leeks to the onion exposed. Pour 1 tbsp vinegar over each onion.
F the hottest part of the grill and cook until marked on each
F F F F F F 4. Grill the onions over indirect heat until they are very
F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 44   |  g r il l i n g

side, about 2 minutes per side. tender, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
5. Serve the leeks immediately on a heated platter, driz- 5. Place each onion in an individual bowl. (The onion will

F zled with any remaining marinade. For a Greek-style varia-

F F F F F F spread open like a flower in the bowl.) Pour the juices that
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese. See photo on page 43.

F F F F F F
tion, top the Grilled Leeks with 1/4 cup pitted black olives and

F F F
immediately.

F F F F F F F
have accumulated in the foil pouch over the onion and serve

F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 s i d es a n d s a n dw i c h e s

O
f all the techniques that grilling fans have come sure to treat them well. Seasoning them and maintaining
to know and love over the past few years, those dem- them isn’t very difficult, but if your pan loses its seasoning or
onstrated in this chapter are among the most exciting, from starts to stick, you may need to repeat the steps again.
grilled potatoes to grilled breads to grilled sandwiches and To season a skillet or griddle for the first time, wash it well
pizzas. The taste of a pizza fresh from the grill and the incom- with warm soapy water to remove any oily residue. Let it dry
parable texture of a crust that’s crisp on the outside and ten- thoroughly. Now, place the pan or griddle over a medium-
der on the inside just can’t be duplicated in a typical home high heat. Add enough oil to liberally coat a skillet; brush the
oven. Other breads can also be prepared on the grill, either griddle with enough to coat evenly. Continue to heat until
by exposing them to direct flame or preparing them on a skil- the pan is very hot. You may be able to see a bit of smoke.
let or griddle that is heated up on the grill. Carefully take the pan away from the heat and, wearing
Cakes and patties made from beans or cooked grains, as gloves or oven mitts to protect your hands, rub the skillet or
well as shaped and grilled polenta, are basics that can be the griddle with a wad of paper towel to remove the excess oil.
centerpiece of the menu or round out any menu that features Once the pan is seasoned, proper maintenance protects
grilled foods. the surface you’ve created. Don’t wash a seasoned pan in
Some of the dishes in this chapter are grilled right on the soapy water. Instead, pour out any fat from the pan and wipe
grill rack, exposed to the heat from the burner or coals. Oth- out the residue with paper towel. Add some salt and use a
ers, though, need to be grilled with a bit of protection between wad of paper towel to scour the pan clean and remove any
the fire and the food. Cast-iron pans and griddles are the per- debris that is sticking to it.
fect accessory for these breads. Rinse the pan briefly to remove the salt, wipe the pan dry,
To keep your skillets and griddles in good condition, be and let it dry completely before putting it away.

Grilled Sweet Potatoes with Pecan-Molasses Butter, 147 Griddled Angel Biscuits, 157

Grilled Herbed Polenta, 148 Crostini with Grilled Tomato and Fontina, 158

Skillet Cornbread with Cheddar Cheese and Grilled Corn, 150 Crostini with Grilled Lamb, Scallions, and Baba Ghanoush, 160

Hoe Cakes, 151 Grilled Chicken Burritos with Tomatillo salsa, 163

Black Bean Cakes, 152 Grilled Cubano Sandwich, 165

1 46   |  g r il l in g

Grilled Tofu, 153 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich with Manchego, 166

grilled Potato Skewers with Curried Onion Dipping Sauce, 155 Grilled Pizza, 168

Grilled Potato and Red Onion Fans, 156 Naan, 170

 g r i l l e d s w e e t p o t at o e s
with Pecan-Molasses Butter

G
rilling brings out the best in sweet potatoes, giving 2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
them a touch of crispness and a more intense flavor. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
The pecan-molasses butter is a great choice, since it echoes down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
the smoky tastes from the grill and harkens back to the tradi- ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
tional savor of a favorite Thanksgiving side dish, without the of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
mini-marshmallows. 3. Brush the sweet potatoes with the oil and season with
makes 8 servings the remaining salt and pepper.
4. Grill the sweet potatoes over direct heat, turning once,
1 cup softened butter
until marked on both sides, about 3 minutes per side. Turn
¼ cup chopped toasted pecans
the sweet potatoes over and move to indirect heat. Grill the
1 tbsp molasses potatoes, covered and turning as necessary, until tender
2 tsp salt throughout, about 6 to 8 minutes.
1½ tsp ground black pepper 5. Serve the sweet potatoes slices immediately on a heated
4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced platter or plates topped with slices or rosettes of the pecan-
¼ cup vegetable oil, or as needed molasses butter. See photo on page 33.

1. To make the pecan-molasses butter: Blend together the

butter, pecans, and molasses until smooth. Add 1/4 tsp of the
salt and a pinch of the pepper. Pipe into rosettes or roll into a
cylinder (see page 119), and refrigerate until needed.

s i d e s
and
sa n dwi c h e s  |  1 4 7
 grilled herbed polenta

I
f you prefer, you can cook the polenta in the oven instead 2. Bring the chicken broth to a boil and season with the
of on the stovetop. Once the cornmeal is all moistened, salt and pepper. Add the cornmeal in a stream, stirring con-
cover the pan and put it in a 350°F oven for about 20 minutes. stantly until it has been all added. Simmer, stirring often,
Give the polenta enough time to firm up and chill before you until the polenta starts to pull away slightly from the sides of
slice it into pieces for the grill. the pot, about 25 minutes. Remove from the heat and blend
makes 8 servings in the cheese, butter, rosemary, and thyme. Adjust seasoning
with salt and pepper, if desired.
4 cups chicken broth
3. Pour the polenta into the prepared pan. Let cool to room
1 tsp salt, or to taste
temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate
¼ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste until cold enough to cut into shapes, at least 1 and up to 24
1B/d cups coarse yellow cornmeal hours. (recipe continues on page 150)
C/d cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tbsp butter
2 tsp chopped rosemary left to right  Make a wall of aluminum foil to adjust the thick-
1¼ tsp chopped thyme ness of the finished polenta, if necessary. Cut the polenta into pieces

of any shape that will be big enough to hold up on the grill. Give the
note: To make soft polenta, decrease the amount of cornmeal to 1 cup.
polenta a quarter turn while it is grilling on the first side to produce
See photo on page 28.
crosshatch marks; this will be the presentation side. The Grilled Her-
1. Line the bottom and sides of a half-sheet pan with plas- bed Polenta can be paired with a simple green salad for a delicious
tic wrap. You can adjust the dimensions of your pan by add- light lunch, or it can be served with a roast chicken breast for an el-
ing a temporary wall of aluminum foil placed widthwise. egant entrée.
1 48   |  g r i l l i n g
 4. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal gles. Grill over direct heat until marked and crisp on the first
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- side, about 4 to 5 minutes. (Rotate the polenta a quarter turn
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in after about each minute of grilling time to give the pieces
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. crosshatch marks, if desired.) Turn the polenta once and fin-
5. Cut the polenta into 12 rectangles, 3 inches by 4 inches. ish grilling on the second side, about another 4 to 5 minutes.
Cut each rectangle in half on the diagonal to make 24 trian- Serve very hot on a platter.

skillet cornbread
with Cheddar Cheese and Grilled Corn

T
his recipe may be made with 1 to 11/2 cups thawed fro- about 30 to 40 minutes. Give the corn a quarter turn every 10
zen corn kernels as a substitute for the grilled corn. to 15 minutes. The husks should blacken, but be careful not to
makes 8 servings burn the kernels.
4. Remove the corn from the grill and let sit until cool
2 ears corn
enough to handle. Pull off the husks and any remaining silk,
¾ cup all-purpose flour
and cut the kernels from the cob.
B/d cup granulated sugar 5. Coat the inside of an 8-inch round cast-iron skillet with
2 tsp baking powder oil. Place the greased pan on the grill, cover, and let the pan
1 tsp salt preheat for 10 minutes while mixing the cornbread.
1 cup cornmeal 6. Sift together the flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt
2 eggs into a large bowl. Stir in the cornmeal until well blended.
1 cup milk or buttermilk 7. Combine the eggs, milk or buttermilk, and melted butter
½ cup melted butter in a small bowl and beat until blended. Pour the wet ingredi-
½ cup grated sharp cheddar ents into the dry ingredients and mix lightly with a wooden
spoon or a rubber spatula just until a moist batter forms.
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a Gently fold in the cheddar and corn kernels.
1 50   |  g r i l l in g

charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals 8. Pour the mixture into the preheated pan on the grill.
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the Cover the grill and cook until the bread is brown and starts to
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. pull away from the sides of the pan, 25 to 30 minutes.
2. Trim the stem and loose silk off the ends of the ears of 9. Let the cornbread cool slightly, about 5 to 10 minutes,
corn, leaving the husks on. before serving directly from the pan. See photo on page 25.
3. Place the corn on the grill, cover, and roast until tender,
 hoe cakes

H
oe cakes are reputed to have been baked over hot 2. Mix together the cornmeal, baking powder, and salt in a
coals on the blade of a hoe—hence the name. A heavy large bowl with a whisk until evenly blended.
griddle set on top of your grill works even better. For more 3. Blend the buttermilk and eggs in a separate bowl until
about using griddles and pans on the grill, see pages 1–4. smooth. Add to the cornmeal mixture all at once and stir just
Try some maple syrup or some of the pecan-molasses butter until the dry ingredients are moistened. Use as few strokes as
we’ve suggested for the Grilled Sweet Potatoes on page 147 as possible.
a topping. 4. Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet on the grill until hot.
makes 8 servings Brush the pan lightly with the oil. Drop about 2 tbsp of the
batter for each hoe cake onto the griddle. Continue to drop
2 cups fine stone-ground cornmeal
hoe cakes onto the griddle, leaving about 2 inches between
2 tsp baking powder
each cake.
1 tsp salt 5. Cook the cakes on the first side until the bottoms are
2 cups buttermilk nicely browned and bubbles form on the tops, about 4 min-
2 large eggs, lightly beaten utes. Turn once and cook until the second side is browned,
Vegetable oil, as needed about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the hoe cakes to a platter and
keep warm until all the batter has been cooked.
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-low. If you are using a 6. Serve at once on a heated platter or plates. See photo on
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals page 92.
are glowing red with a generous coating of white ash. Spread
the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.

s i de s
a nd
san dw ic h e s  |  1 51
 black bean cakes

Y
ou can cook these cakes on squares of aluminum foil 2. Drain the beans, place in a pot, and add the chicken
instead of in a skillet, if you prefer. broth. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, and cook
makes 8 servings until the beans are tender, about 45 minutes. Drain.
3. Cook the chorizo over medium heat in a sauté pan until
1 lb dried black beans
the fat is rendered and the chorizo is slightly crispy. Add the
4 cups chicken broth
onions, garlic, and jalapeño, and sauté until golden, about 8
1 cup chopped chorizo sausage to 10 minutes.
C/d cup medium-dice yellow onion 4. Add the cumin and chili powder, and sauté until fra-
2 tbsp minced garlic grant, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the
1 jalapeño, stemmed, seeded, and minced mixture to cool.
1 tsp ground cumin 5. Combine the beans, the chorizo mixture, the egg, cilan-
1 tsp chili powder tro, lime juice, and salt. Mix well, mashing some of the beans
1 egg, lightly beaten (this will help keep the cakes together).
2 tbsp chopped cilantro 6. Form the mixture into 16 cakes about 2 inches in diameter

1½ tbsp lime juice and 1/2 inch thick. Dust the cakes lightly with the cornmeal.
7. Preheat the griddle to medium heat on the grill. Cook
1 tsp salt
the cakes until heated through, about 4 to 6 minutes per side.
½ cup cornmeal
Serve immediately with the sour cream and Chipotle Pico de
½ cup sour cream
Gallo. See photo on page 110.
1 cup Chipotle Pico de Gallo (page 72)

1. Soak the beans overnight in enough cold water to cover

them by 3 inches.
1 52   |  g ri l l i n g
 grilled tofu

Y
ou can choose any of the barbecue sauces included ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
in this book: Barbecue Sauce (page 41), Vinegar Barbe- of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
cue Sauce (page 19), Black Jack Barbecue Sauce (page 87), or 2. Blend together the sugar, paprika, kosher salt, chili pow-
Apricot-Ancho Barbecue Glaze (page 20) to accompany the der, garlic powder, dry mustard, onion powder, and cayenne
tofu. Warm up a little of the sauce and serve it on the side for pepper, and place in a shallow pan.
dipping. Try serving the tofu on a bed of dressed greens and 3. Slice each block of tofu in half lengthwise, then cut each
your favorite grilled vegetables from Chapter 5. half into thirds. You should have 12 pieces. Dredge the tofu
makes 6 servings pieces in the sugar mixture.
4. Heat a cast-iron skillet or a grill pan over direct heat on
1 cup granulated sugar
the grill and brush with the oil. Add the tofu pieces, leaving
B/d cup paprika
enough room between them to flip easily. Cover the grill and
B/d cup kosher salt cook the tofu over indirect heat, turning the pan and flipping
2 tbsp chili powder the tofu pieces over as necessary, until the tofu is golden and
1 tbsp garlic powder flavorful with a noticeable crust, 35 to 50 minutes.
1 tbsp dry mustard 5. Serve immediately on a heated platter or plates.
1 tbsp onion powder
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper
Two 14-oz blocks firm tofu, pressed
¼ cup olive oil, or as needed

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.

If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn

s i de s
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-

a nd
sa n dw i c h e s  |  153
 g r i l l e d p o t at o s k e w e r s
with Curried Onion Dipping Sauce

C
hoose potatoes with relatively similar sizes and be firm but not crunchy). Drain and let sit until cool enough
shapes for this dish. Or, if you like, use large potatoes, to handle.
such as Yukon Golds, and cut them into wedges or slices. 3. Soak the wooden skewers in cool water for 30 minutes.
makes 8 servings 4. Cut the potatoes in half and thread them on 2 skewers,
with the cut sides facing down. Coat the potatoes with the oil
4 tsp salt, or to taste
and season with the remaining salt and the pepper.
24 red bliss potatoes, about 1 inch in diameter
5. Grill over direct heat, turning once, until golden brown
½ cup olive oil with some grill marks, about 5 to 7 minutes. Serve immedi-
16 wooden skewers ately with the Curried Onion Dipping Sauce.
½ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste
1 cup Curried Onion Dipping Sauce (recipe follows)
Curried Onion Dipping Sauce
makes 2 cups
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
1¾ cups sour cream
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
3 tbsp curry powder
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 1 tbsp prepared Dijon mustard

2. Bring a large pot of water to a rapid boil over high heat 1 tsp salt, or to taste

in a large pot and add 2 tsp of the salt. Add the potatoes and ½ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste
cook until the potatoes can be pierced with a fork but still 3 tbsp minced scallions or chives
offer some resistance, about 10 to 15 minutes (they should 2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley (recipe continues on page 156)

s i de s
a nd
left to right  Thread the potatoes onto
2 skewers so that you can easily flip them

s a n d w i c h e s   |   1 55
over on the grill. Combine all the ingredi-

ents for the dipping sauce thoroughly.

 1. Stir together all the ingredients. Adjust seasoning to though we tend to think of new potatoes as being quite small, new

taste with salt and pepper, if desired. potatoes are actually any potato with a very thin skin that has been

2. Refrigerate until ready to use. Store any unused sauce in freshly dug. You may find either red- or white-skinned varieties.

a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Sweet potatoes, yams, and some squashes are also relatively high in

moisture, which means they can be cooked the same way as high-

Potatoes for the Grill moisture potatoes. All of these potatoes are great on the grill be-

cause they hold their shape well even after they are cooked.

Chefs consider the type of potato they have when they choose a Potatoes that are high in starch, like russet and Idaho potatoes,

cooking technique. Some potatoes are high in moisture and low in fall apart easily when they are cooked. To prepare them on the grill,

starch—new potatoes or red-skinned potatoes for instance. Pur- wrap them in foil as described in the recipe for Grilled Potato and

ple and fingerling varieties are also typically high in moisture. Even Red Onion Fans below.

g r i l l e d p o t at o a n d r e d o n i o n f a n s

T
o make even cuts without cutting all the way through are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the
the potato, try placing two chopsticks on either side of coals out in an even bed on one side of the grill. Clean the
the potato; the chopsticks will stop your knife at just the right cooking grate.
point, before you cut all the way through the potato. But if you 2. Peel the potatoes, and keep them submerged in cold
do cut through the potato, don’t worry—it will still taste great. water so they do not discolor. Make parallel slices about 1/4
makes 8 servings inch apart through the potatoes, without cutting all the way
through the potato. Insert some of the red onion into each
8 medium russet potatoes
slice in the potato. This will open up the potato a little.
2 cups sliced red onion
3. Cut a large sheet of foil and brush the dull side lightly
2 tbsp olive oil with some of the oil. Arrange the potatoes on the foil (they
2 tsp chopped thyme can be quite close to each other but not touching) and driz-
1½ tsp salt, or to taste zle with the remaining oil, the thyme, salt, and pepper. Close
¾ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste the foil around the potatoes.
1 56   |  g r i l l in g

4. Grill the potatoes over indirect medium heat, turning

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a every 15 to 20 minutes, until the potatoes are very tender,
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals about 11/4 hours. Serve the potatoes immediately.
 griddled angel biscuits

T
hese biscuits have enough resilience to hold up on it into a square, then roll it out to about 1/2-inch thickness
a griddle without breaking apart, but they still bake up with a rolling pin. Cut into 2-inch circles using a biscuit cut-
tender and light because of the yeast. They are perfect candi- ter. Place the biscuits about 1 inch apart on a greased bak-
dates for a rolled-in garnish. Or enjoy them with sweet butter ing sheet. Allow to rise in a warm place covered with plastic
and maybe a drizzle of honey or a spoonful of fruit preserves. wrap or a clean kitchen towel until almost doubled in size,
makes 8 servings about 45 to 50 minutes.
5. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
1 tsp active dry yeast
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
¼ cup warm water
are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
2½ cups all-purpose flour the coals into an even bed.
2 tbsp granulated sugar 6. Heat a cast-iron skillet or a grill pan over direct heat on
1½ tsp baking powder the grill and brush with some of the remaining butter. Add
½ tsp baking soda the biscuits in batches, leaving enough room between them
¾ tsp salt to flip easily. Grill the biscuits, covered, turning the pan and
1 cup buttermilk flipping the biscuits over once, about 6 minutes per side.
½ cup melted butter, cooled to room temperature Continue until all of the biscuits are cooked, brushing the
pan with more melted butter as needed. Serve immediately.
1. Mix together the yeast and the warm water in a small
bowl and let stand for 5 minutes, or until the yeast foams.
2. Combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda,
Rolling Garnishes into Biscuits
and salt in a medium-sized bowl, and stir to distribute all of
the ingredients evenly. Make a well in the center of the dry When you pat out the biscuit dough the first time, add a garnish such

s i de s
ingredients. as chopped herbs, grated cheese, or bacon bits by scattering it in an

3. Add the buttermilk, 1/3 cup of the melted butter, and the even layer over ²⁄³ of the dough. Fold the dough in thirds, like a letter.

hydrated yeast to the well. Quickly stir the ingredients just Turn the dough so that the long side is now parallel to the edge of

a nd
until a heavy, sticky dough forms. (Do not overmix.) the work surface and use a rolling pin to make a larger square. Fold

4. Turn the dough out onto a well-floured surface and pat the dough in thirds once more and roll out for the final time.

san dw ic h e s  |  1 57
 c ro s t i n i
with Grilled Tomato and Fontina

W
hile the smoky flavor from the grill is a big part ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side of the grill.
of what makes these crostini so appetizing, you can Clean the cooking grate.
make them using the broiler instead of a grill to enjoy when 2. Grill the tomatoes over direct heat, turning to char all
the weather isn’t on your side. sides, until the skin blisters and cracks, about 3 minutes. Re-
makes 8 servings move from the grill and let sit until cool enough to handle.
3. Cut the tomatoes into quarters and remove the core and
4 plum tomatoes
seeds. Transfer to a bowl and fold together with 3 tbsp of the
5 tbsp olive oil
olive oil, the balsamic vinegar, marjoram, salt, and pepper
1½ tbsp balsamic vinegar until evenly coated. Let the tomatoes marinate for 10 minutes.
1¼ tsp chopped marjoram 4. Cut the baguette on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1¼ tsp salt to make 24 slices. Brush each slice with a little of the remain-
½ tsp ground black pepper ing olive oil, and grill the baguette slices over direct heat until
½ baguette just marked and toasted on one side, about 1 to 2 minutes.
1½ cups grated Fontina 5. Remove the crostini from the grill and top the grilled
2 tbsp marjoram or basil chiffonade side with 1 tbsp of the Fontina. Place 1 plum tomato quarter
on each crostini. Grill over indirect heat, covered, until the
1. Preheat a gas grill to high; leave one burner off. If you are cheese melts, about 3 minutes.
using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until 6. Garnish the crostini with the marjoram or basil and
the coals are glowing red with a very light coating of white serve immediately.

Crostini with Grilled Lamb, Scallions, and Baba Ghanoush (page 160)
1 58   |  g r i l l in g

are shown alongside Crostini with Grilled Tomato and Fontina

 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F FF F
c ro s t i n i
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
with Grilled Lamb, Scallions, and Baba Ghanoush

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F TF F F F F F F F F F F F F
his combination of lamb and eggplant draws its in- 3. Cut the baguette on the diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick slices
spiration from a Greek classic, moussaka, a layered to make 16 slices. Brush each slice with a little of the Roasted
casserole of lamb and eggplant flavored with garlic and ses- Garlic Butter.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
ame. If the seeds in the eggplant you use for the baba gha- 4. Grill the baguette slices until just marked and toasted,
noush are large, you can strain them out. The sauce will have about 1 to 2 minutes per side.
a smoother, lighter consistency if you do. For a peasant-style 5. Grill the scallions, turning occasionally, until marked and
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
presentation, just chop the eggplant into a coarse paste, as tender, about 5 minutes. Cut the scallions into 2-inch pieces
described below. Grill the eggplant ahead of time when you (roughly into thirds).
have the grill already going for something else for a head start 6. Cut the lamb on the bias into 1/4-inch-thick pieces. Spread
F on this Middle Eastern–inspired appetizer. If you have some
F F F F F F an equal amount of the Baba Ghanoush over each crostini.
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
sliced lamb leftover from the Berbere Grilled Leg of Lamb
(page 42), use that instead of grilling the lamb chops.
makes 8 servings
F F F F F F F F F F F
Place 1 piece of lamb on top of the Baba Ghanoush and cross

F
2 pieces of scallion over the lamb. Sprinkle a couple of drops
of lemon juice on each piece and garnish with sesame seeds.
F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F
3 boneless lamb loin chops
1 tbsp olive oil
F F F F F F FF F F F F
See photo on page 159.

F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F FI F F F F F F F
½ tsp salt Baba Ghanoush
¼ tsp ground black pepper
½ baguette t’s hard to make a little bit of baba ghanoush, but you
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
¼ cup Roasted Garlic Butter, softened (page 117) can use it up easily. Besides serving it as a dip with grilled
6 scallions, trimmed or toasted pita triangles, you can use it as a filling for sand-
¾ cup Baba Ghanoush (recipe follows) wiches or thin it with a flavorful vegetable broth to make a
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 tsp lemon juice, or to taste delicious soup. You can purchase harissa to season the baba
2 tsp sesame seeds (black and white), or to taste ghanoush, but making your own using the recipe below gives
it a unique flavor stamp.
F 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
F F F F F F F
makes 3 cups F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1 60   |  g r il l in g

coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
1 eggplant
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
¼ cup minced shallots
F coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
2. Brush the lamb with the olive oil and season with the salt 4 tsp lemon juice

and pepper. Grill over medium heat until medium-rare inside 1 tsp salt

and brown on the outside, about 5 minutes on each side. Re- 1 tbsp olive oil
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
move the lamb from the grill and let rest. 2 tbsp tahini paste

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley 5 roasted jalapeños, peeled and seeded
1 tbsp chopped mint (see Roasting Peppers, page 101)
½ tsp minced garlic 2 roasted red peppers, peeled and seeded
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
¼ tsp ground black pepper 3 tbsp hot Hungarian paprika
1½ tsp Harissa (recipe follows) 1½ tsp toasted cumin seeds
1 tbsp minced garlic
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
1 tsp ground cayenne pepper
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
¾ cup olive oil
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
3 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste
F coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
½ tsp salt, or to taste
2. Rinse the eggplant and pierce it in 2 or 3 spots. Grill the
eggplant over direct heat, turning every 10 to 12 minutes,
F until the skin is crisp and charred and the eggplant is soft
F F F F F 1. Combine the jalapeños, peppers, paprika, cumin, garlic,
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
enough to collapse, 30 to 40 minutes. Let cool to room tem-
perature, scoop out the flesh, and chop coarsely.
F
3. Combine the shallots with the lemon juice and 1/2 tsp of
F F F F F F F F F F
and cayenne in a blender. Blend to a pastelike consistency.
2. Transfer the jalapeño mixture to a bowl and slowly whisk
in the oil to create a smooth sauce. Add the lemon juice and
F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
the salt, and let marinate while the eggplant is grilling. salt to taste. Refrigerate until ready to use. Store any unused
4. Combine the roasted eggplant and macerated shallots harissa in a clean storage container in the refrigerator for up
with the olive oil, the tahini, and parsley. Stir in the remain- to 2 weeks.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
ing 1/2 tsp salt, the mint, garlic, pepper, and Harissa. (Add

s i de s
these ingredients gradually and adjust to suit your taste by
adding more, if desired.)
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
5. Refrigerate until ready to use. Store any unused baba gh-

a nd
anoush in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.

sa n dwi c h e s  |  16 1
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F Harissa
F F F F F F F F F F F
T
F F his sauce is a classic condiment throughout North Af-
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
rica. It has a brick-red color and a potent kick. It keeps
well, so have a clean jar with a tight-fitting lid ready to use for
a storage container.
F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
makes 1 cup

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 grilled chicken burritos
with Tomatillo Salsa

T
omatillos are small tomatolike vegetables that add are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread
a tart, citrus flavor to the salsa. Be sure to choose toma- the coals into an even bed.
tillos that are firm and green beneath the husk. 4. Grill the chicken, covered, until cooked through, about 5
makes 8 servings minutes per side. Remove from the grill and let rest for 5 min-
utes. Slice on the bias to the desired thickness.
¼ cup lime juice
5. Heat the tortillas on the grill for about 30 seconds
¼ cup vegetable oil
per side. Spread the refried beans on the tortillas. Add the
1 tbsp minced garlic chicken slices, rice, cheese, and guacamole. Top with the To-
¼ cup fine-chopped cilantro matillo Salsa and sour cream, and serve immediately.
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
Tomatillo Salsa
½ tsp ground black pepper
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts makes 3 cups

8 flour tortillas, 10 inches in diameter

1 lb tomatillos, coarsely chopped
2 cups refried beans, heated
1 roasted jalapeño, peeled and seeded
2 cups cooked rice (see Roasting Peppers, page 101)
2 cups queso blanco (white Mexican cheese) 1 cup chopped tomato
2 cups Guacamole (page 35) ½ red onion, diced small
2 cups Tomatillo Salsa (recipe follows) ¼ cup chopped cilantro

s i de s
½ cup sour cream 2 tbsp lime juice
1 tbsp minced garlic

1. Combine the lime juice, oil, garlic, cilantro, cumin, salt, 2 tsp dried oregano

a nd
and pepper to make a marinade. 1 tsp ground cumin
2. Blot the chicken dry and place in a zip-close bag. Pour ½ tsp salt, or to taste

sa n dw ic h e s  |   1 63
the marinade over the breasts, seal the bag, and let marinate
in the refrigerator for 3 and up to 12 hours. Combine all of the ingredients in a bowl and toss well. Adjust
3. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a seasoning with salt to taste. The salsa is ready to serve now or
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals it may be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
 grilled cubano sandwich

T
he Cubano sandwich migrated to Florida with Cuban 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-low heat. If you are using a
immigrants over a century ago. Refer to the Pulled Pork charcoal grill, build a fire with a very small amount of coals
Barbecue Sandwich recipe on page 19 for instructions on pre- and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a
paring the pulled pork. moderate coating of white ash. Spread the coals out in an
makes 8 servings even bed.
2. Brush the outsides of the rolls with the butter. Spread
8 hero rolls, 10 inches
the mayonnaise on 1 side of each roll and the mustard on
½ cup melted butter
the other. On 1 side of each roll, layer 2 slices of the cheese, 2
½ cup mayonnaise slices of ham, and 2 to 3 ounces of the pulled pork. On the op-
½ cup Dijon mustard posite side of the roll, layer 2 lettuce leaves, 3 tomatoes slices,
16 slices Swiss cheese and 2 pickle slices.
16 slices ham 3. Grill the sandwiches open-faced over direct heat until the
1½ lb pulled pork bread is golden brown and the cheese has melted, about 45 to
16 leaves Boston lettuce (about 2 heads) 90 seconds. Be sure to grill the sandwich just until it is heated
24 slices plum tomatoes (about 3 tomatoes) through so that the lettuce stays crisp and doesn’t wilt.
16 slices kosher dill pickles (about 3 pickles) 4. Close up the sandwiches and serve immediately.

s i d e s
Mayonnaise
For many people, the idea of mayonnaise at an outdoor picnic is cause To keep purchased mayonnaise safe, always use clean utensils

and
for concern. Since the sauce is traditionally made with uncooked egg to remove the mayonnaise from the jar. Clean off the rim of the jar

yolks, there is every reason to be vigilant. If you always take steps to and the lid. If your mayonnaise is in the refrigerator for more than 6

sa n dwi c h e s  |   1 65
keep your foods safe, whether you are putting them away from the weeks, get a new (and smaller) jar to replace it.

grocery store, getting them ready for the grill, or putting them on the Your own homemade mayonnaise won’t last quite that long, but

table to serve, there is no need to give up this wonderful sauce. as long as you keep it cold, it will last for about 10 days.

Instead of a mayonnaise made with uncooked yolks, use store- Any dish you make that includes mayonnaise, whether it be a

bought mayonnaise, which is made with pasteurized eggs, or use spread, a dip, or a dressing, should never be eaten after it has been at

pasteurized yolks, found in the dairy case, to make your own. room temperature for more than 2 hours. Throw it away.
 g r i l l e d v e g e t a b l e s a n dw i c h
with Manchego

A
fl avor ed m ayonna ise adds a great deal to this make them easier to handle. Halve the chayotes and re-
sandwich. You can blend a number of flavorings into move the peel and large seed. Cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
a prepared mayonnaise or homemade mayonnaise (see page and set aside.
165 for more about mayonnaise). Use toothpicks or skewers to 2. Place the eggplant slices in a colander and set the colan-
hold the sliced red onion together as you grill it so the slices der over a bowl or pan. Scatter 1 tsp of the salt over the egg-
won’t separate into rings. plant and allow to drain for about 20 minutes. Rinse and
makes 8 servings drain well.
3. Combine the olive oil, mustard, oregano, thyme, garlic,
2 chayote squash
chile, the remaining 1 tsp salt, and the pepper in a large bowl.
3 tsp salt
Add the chayote, eggplant, red onions, red peppers, pobla-
1 medium eggplant, peeled (if desired) and thinly sliced nos, and portabellas; turn to coat. Let marinate in the refrig-
(about 20 slices)
erator for at least 30 minutes and up to 2 hours.
1½ cups olive oil
4. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
¼ cup Dijon mustard If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
¼ cup chopped oregano down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
¼ cup chopped thyme ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
2 tbsp minced garlic of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
1 tbsp minced serrano chile 5. Grill the vegetables over direct heat until marked, about
½ tsp ground black pepper 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Move the vegetables to indirect
4 red onions, thickly sliced heat and continue to grill, covered and turning as necessary,
4 red peppers, halved and seeded until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes more. (Grilling times will
4 poblanos, halved and seeded vary for each of the vegetables.) Slice the portabella caps into
1/4-inch-thick slices.
4 portabella mushroom caps, gills removed
6. Cut the hoagie rolls in half lengthwise and spread gener-
8 hoagie rolls
ously with the mayonnaise. Add the vegetables in layers to fill
1 cup mayonnaise
each sandwich, and top with the cheese. Close up the sand-
1½ lb thinly sliced manchego cheese
1 66   |   g r i l l in g

wiches and serve immediately. Optionally, wrap the sand-

1. Parboil the chayote in boiling water seasoned with 1 tsp wiches tightly in aluminum foil and return them to the grill to
of the salt. Cook until tender enough to pierce easily up to warm over indirect heat for about 10 minutes before serving.
1/4 inch, about 15 minutes. Remove from the water and rinse
with cool water to prevent them from overcooking and to
 grilled pizza

S
auté or grill the onions for the pizza before you begin. let rest at room temperature until nearly doubled in size,
You can use uncooked onions, if you prefer. In that case, about 11/2 hours.
use a sweet onion like Walla Walla or Vidalia. The tomato 4. Gently fold the dough over and allow it to rise for another
sauce that you use for the pizza should not be too watery. 45 minutes.
makes 8 servings 5. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
2½ tsp active dry yeast
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
2 cups warm water
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
2 cups all-purpose flour 6. Roll or stretch the dough into a 12-inch round. Lightly
1 cup semolina flour, plus extra for dusting dust a 12-inch pizza pan with semolina flour and lay the
1 tbsp salt dough round on top. Brush some of the olive oil over the en-
¼ cup olive oil tire dough round.
1½ cups tomato sauce 7. Lift the dough from the pan and place the pizza dough
2 cups grated mozzarella directly on the grill with the oiled side face-down. Brush the
¼ cup sautéed diced onions dough with the remaining olive oil. Grill the pizza until the
2 tbsp basil chiffonade dough is marked and it puffs up slightly, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip
the pizza over and spread the sauce evenly over the round,
1. Combine the yeast and water in a bowl and stir to dis- leaving a 1/2-inch border around the outside edges. Evenly
solve. Let the mixture sit until a thick foam forms. sprinkle the cheese over the sauce and top with the onions.
2. Add the flours and the salt to the yeast and stir by hand, Close the lid on the grill. Cook the pizza until the crust is
or mix on medium speed in an electric mixer using the dough golden brown and the cheese is slightly brown and bubbly,
hook attachment, until the dough is smooth and elastic, about about 2 to 3 minutes more.
5 minutes. 8. Remove the pizza from the grill and sprinkle the basil
3. Transfer the dough to a second bowl that has been chiffonade on top. Cut the pizza into 8 slices and serve im-
lightly oiled. Cover the dough with a clean kitchen towel and mediately.
1 6 8   |   g r il l i n g
 naan

N
a a n is a perfect bread for the grill. The rising and oiled. Cover the dough with a clean kitchen towel and let rest at
shaping time for the dough is less than 2 hours, and it room temperature until nearly doubled in size, about 1 hour.
cooks in less than 10 minutes. You can use any leftovers in a 4. Gently press down the dough to release any trapped gas.
bread salad. Tear or cut the naan into bite-sized pieces and Divide the dough into 8 pieces. Shape the pieces into rounds
toss together with diced tomatoes, cucumbers, parsley, basil, and then flatten into disks about 4 inches in diameter. Set
and a red wine vinaigrette. them on a lightly floured board and cover with a clean towel.
makes 8 servings Let the dough rest for 15 to 20 minutes.
5. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
2½ tsp active dry yeast
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
¾ cup water
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
3 cups all-purpose flour ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
B/d cup plain yogurt of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. Spray 2 baking sheets
¼ cup vegetable oil with cooking spray.
1 egg, lightly beaten 6. Gently stretch each piece of dough into a 7-inch disk.
2 tbsp granulated sugar The center should be about 1/4 inch thick and the outside edge
1½ tsp salt should be closer to 1/2 inch thick. Pull 1 edge out to elongate
¼ cup melted butter it and make a teardrop shape. Place the naans on the baking
2 tbsp poppy seeds sheets, brush the tops with the melted butter, and sprinkle
the poppy seeds on top.
1. Combine the yeast and water in a bowl and stir to dis- 7. Transfer the dough from the baking sheet to the grill and
solve. Let the mixture sit until a thick foam forms. cook over direct heat, poppy-seed-side down, until stiffened
2. Add the flour, yogurt, oil, egg, sugar, and salt, and stir and golden brown, about 2 minutes. Turn the bread over and
by hand, or mix on low speed in an electric mixer using the grill over indirect heat until baked through, about 8 minutes
dough hook attachment, until very smooth and elastic but still more. Lower the heat or move the breads to keep them from
soft and slightly sticky. browning too much before they finish grilling. Repeat until
3. Transfer the dough to a second bowl that has been lightly all the naan is cooked. Serve the naan immediately.
170   |   g ri l l i n g
 b r e a k fa s t

M
aking breakfast on the grill is a great way to get to prepare most of these dishes. Cast iron is a perfect choice
out of the kitchen and into the middle of whatever is for camping, since you don’t need soap and water to clean it.
going on, rather than being stuck in the kitchen all alone. And Scrubbing them off with salt and some paper towel is the best
of course, if you are camping, then outdoors at the grill is the way to remove any surface debris or residue between uses.
only place to cook! We’ve gathered together a number of reci- To brew “campfire coffee,” bring the water to a boil in a met-
pes that extend your grilled breakfast options far beyond a pot al coffee pot or saucepan, then add the ground coffee. Let the
of campfire coffee and a simple pan of scrambled eggs. coffee steep off the heat for about 5 minutes. The grounds will
We’ve used cast-iron griddles and skillets set over a fire settle and you can pour the coffee carefully into mugs.

Thick-Sliced Grilled Toast with Apricot Spanish Omelet, 184

and Lemon-Cardamom butters, 173 Fried Eggs with Mushrooms and Sausage, 185
French Toast with Honey-Orange Butter Toad in a Hole with Red Pepper Ketchup, 187
and Orange suprêmes, 175
cornmeal-Crusted Trout, 188
Buckwheat Flapjacks with Hibiscus Honey, 176
grilled flank steak Hash, 190
Pear Skillet Cake, 179
Grilled Ham Steaks with Grilled Pineapple Salsa, 191
Herbed Crêpes with Grilled Asparagus and Shallots, 181
grilled skirt steak with jalapeño-cilantro butter, 192
Spinach-Feta Omelet , 182
17 2  |  g r il l i n g
 thick-sliced griddled toast
with Apricot and Lemon-Cardamom Butters

T
his makes a great breakfast for the campsite, if you Mix together the butter, honey, lemon juice, cardamom, and
have the cooler space to bring along the already pre- lemon zest until evenly blended. This can be prepared in
pared flavored butters. If you don’t have a griddle, you can advance and stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days. (For
toast the bread directly on a rack over the fire. Or, spear the more about flavored butters, see page 119.)
unbuttered bread on a cleaned hardwood stick and hold it
over the flame until golden, then slather with the butters. Apricot Butter
makes 8 servings

T
his butter stores well in the refrigerator, so if apri-
1 cup softened Lemon-Cardamom Butter (recipe follows)
cots are plentiful, double or triple this recipe. Use con-
16 slices sourdough bread, about 1 inch thick
tainers that are perfectly clean and have tight-fitting lids.
1 cup Apricot Butter (recipe follows)
makes 1½ cups

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- 4½ cups sliced fresh apricots
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are ¾ cup apricot nectar
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the ½ cup granulated sugar
coals in an even bed.
½ tsp ground cardamom
2. Place a griddle on the grill and preheat to medium-high
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
heat. Spread the Lemon-Cardamom Butter on both sides of
¼ tsp grated lemon zest
all the slices of bread.
B/i tsp salt
3. Griddle the bread until golden brown, about 2 minutes
on each side. Serve with the Apricot Butter.
1. Combine the apricot slices and nectar in a large, heavy-
bottomed saucepan; cover and bring the mixture to a simmer
Lemon-Cardamom Butter over medium heat. Simmer until the apricots are a soft pulp,
makes 1 cup about 25 minutes.
2. Push the apricots through a food mill or strainer into
1 cup softened butter a clean saucepan. Add the sugar, cardamom, cinnamon,

b r e a k fa st  |  17 3
2 tbsp honey, or as needed lemon zest, and salt. Simmer over medium-low heat, stirring
1 tbsp lemon juice frequently, until very thick, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.
½ tsp ground cardamom 3. Let cool completely before using. Store any unused but-
¼ tsp grated lemon zest ter in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
 french toast
with Honey-Orange Butter and Orange Suprêmes

Honey Orange Butter

U
se an enriched bread like brioche or challah for the
richest tasting French toast.
makes 1 cup
makes 8 servings

1 cup softened butter

24 slices challah or brioche, about ¼ to ½ inch thick
¼ tsp orange zest
3 cups milk
1½ tsp orange juice
7 eggs
2 tbsp honey
3 tbsp sugar
Pinch ground cinnamon, optional Combine all the ingredients and blend until smooth. Pipe
Pinch ground nutmeg, optional into rosettes or roll into a cylinder (see page 119) and refriger-
Salt, as needed ate until needed. Store any unused butter in the refrigerator
Vegetable oil, as needed for up to 4 days or freeze for up to 4 weeks.
Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting
32 orange suprêmes (see Making Citrus Suprêmes, below)
½ cup Honey-Orange Butter (recipe follows) Making Citrus Suprêmes

1. Place the bread slices on sheet pans and let dry over- You can simply peel an orange and then separate it into segments or

night at room temperature, or in a 200°F oven for 1 hour. cut it into slices or dice it, but a citrus suprême is a more refined way

2. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- to serve the fruit as part of a dish. To make suprêmes, use a sharp

coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are paring knife to cut away the peel and all of the underlying pith (the

glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the white portion of the peel). You should cut into the flesh, but leave as

coals in an even bed. much of the fruit as possible still intact.

3. Combine the milk, eggs, sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg, Work over a bowl to catch the juices and the segments as you

if using, and salt to taste; mix into a smooth batter. Refriger- make the suprêmes. To cut suprêmes, hold the fruit in one hand

ate until needed. and with the other, make careful cuts along the membranes that

4. Preheat the griddle to medium on the grill. Grease the separate the segments, first on one side of the segment and then

b r e a kfa st   |   17 5
griddle lightly with some of the vegetable oil. on the other. This releases the fruit from the membranes into the

5. Dip the bread into the batter, coating the slices evenly. bowl. When you are done cutting away the segments, give the or-

Griddle the slices on 1 side until evenly browned, then turn ange a squeeze to release the remaining juice. Remove the seeds

and brown the other side, about 2 minutes per side. from the segments, if there are any. If you aren’t using the juice in

6. Dust the French toast with the confectioners’ sugar and your recipe, enjoy it as a “cook’s bonus” or stash it in the refrigera-

garnish with the orange suprêmes. Serve immediately with tor to use later.

the Honey-Orange Butter.

 b u c k w h e at f l a p j a c k s
with Hibiscus Honey

T
he hibiscus honey we paired with these tender buck- 2. Sift together the flours, sugar, and salt into a large bowl
wheat flapjacks has a brilliant ruby color from the hi- and make a well in the center of the dry ingredients. Add the
biscus flowers and a slightly tart flavor that tempers honey’s egg yolks and yeast mixture to the well and stir until smooth.
natural sweetness. See the note on page 178 for more about Cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until
adding flavor to honeys and syrups. doubled, 1 to 11/2 hours.
makes 8 servings 2. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
5 tsp active dry yeast
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
5 cups milk, warmed to 110°F
coals in an even bed.
3B/d cups all-purpose flour 3. Once the batter has risen, beat the egg whites to soft
¾ cup buckwheat flour peaks and fold into the batter.
1 tbsp granulated sugar 4. Preheat a griddle over direct heat on the grill and lightly
1½ tsp salt grease with some of the oil. Ladle 1/4 cup of batter for each
4 large egg yolks flapjack onto the griddle. Turn once, when bubbles break on
4 large egg whites the upper surface and the bottom is golden brown, about 3
¼ cup canola oil minutes. Finish cooking on the second side, about 2 minutes.
½ cup Lemon-Cardamom Butter (page 173) Repeat with the remaining batter.
1½ cups Hibiscus Honey (recipe follows) 5. Serve the flapjacks on heated plates with the Lemon-
Cardamom Butter and the Hibiscus Honey.
1. Dissolve the yeast in the warmed milk and set aside until
the yeast foams, 5 to 10 minutes.

left to right  Flip the pancakes once

the bubbles have risen to the surface and

started to break and the flapjack is golden

17 6   |  g r il l in g

brown on the bottom. Steep the honey

until it has achieved the color and flavor

that you like. Opposite, Buckwheat Flap-

jacks with warm Hibiscus Honey; warm

the syrup slightly before serving to make

it easier to pour.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Hibiscus Honey
makes 2 cups
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
Use the following as a guideline, but do taste the syrup or honey as

it steeps. Your ingredients may be stronger or weaker in flavor, so let

your palate be the ultimate guide. You may want to add more fla-
F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
2 cups honey

F
1 cup hibiscus flowers

F F F F F F F F F F F F
lengthen the steeping time.

F F F F F F
• 1 cup hibiscus flowers, steeped for 1 hour F F
voring than suggested below, or perhaps you’ll need to shorten or

F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1. Heat the honey to just below the boiling point (185°F) in
• ¼ cup orange peel, steeped for 45 minutes
a double boiler and keep it at that temperature, stirring con-
• 2 tbsp lemon peel, steeped for 45 minutes
stantly, about 10 minutes.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
2. Remove the honey or syrup from the double boiler and add • ½ cup lavender flowers, steeped for 30 minutes

the hibiscus flowers. Let steep for 1 hour and then strain into a • 2 cinnamon sticks, steeped for 30 minutes
serving bowl or storage container. Store any unused honey in a • 1 cup fruit purée (raspberry or blueberry),
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
covered container in the refrigerator for up to 3 weeks. steeped for 30 minutes

• 2 thick slices ginger, steeped for 30 minutes

Flavored Honeys and Syrups • 2 tsp whole cloves, steeped for 15 minutes
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F
You might be surprised at how many different flavors and qualities

of honey there are. Maple syrup, real maple syrup, has a light body
F
and an intense flavor. But, like anything else, there are ways to “gild
F F F F F F F F F F F
Heat the honey or syrup to just below the boiling point (185°F) in a

double boiler and keep it at that temperature, stirring constantly,

about 10 minutes. Remove the honey or syrup from the double

F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F
the lily” for something special.

F F
To make a flavored honey or syrup, first measure out 2 cups and

put it in the top of a double boiler. It is important to use a double

F F F F F F F F F F F F
boiler. Add the flavoring of your choice, and let steep according to

the times listed above. Strain the honey into a clean serving bowl or

storage container.
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
boiler to keep honeys and syrups from scorching. You can keep flavored syrups and honeys on hand in the refrig-

Next, add flavorings. We used hibiscus flowers for the honey erator for up to 3 weeks. Serve flavored honeys and syrups slightly

paired with our buckwheat flapjacks, but there are other options. warm to really bring out the aroma.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
17 8   |  g r i l l i n g

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 pear skillet cake

M
any other fruits such as peaches, plums, and pine- 3. Grate 1 of the pears. In a small bowl, combine the grated
apple may also be used in this recipe. When un- pear, the egg yolks, molasses, and honey, and stir until
molded, this dessert will resemble a tarte Tatin, only with a blended. Add the hot water and stir until the honey and mo-
fraction of the fat and calories. lasses are evenly blended.
makes 12 servings 4. Stir the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. In a large
bowl, whip the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Fold the egg
2 cups cake flour
whites into the batter.
2¼ tsp baking powder
5. Melt the butter in a 10-inch cast-iron skillet on the grill
½ tsp baking soda over direct heat. Add the brown sugar and cook until it dark-
½ tsp salt ens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Peel, core,
1½ tsp ground ginger and thinly slice the remaining pear. Arrange the pear slices
1 tsp ground cinnamon in the skillet in a spiral shape.
¼ tsp ground nutmeg 6. Pour the batter over the pears in the skillet and place the
¼ tsp ground mace pan on the grill over indirect heat. Close the lid, and bake until
¼ tsp ground allspice the cake springs back when lightly touched, about 20 minutes.
2 large Bartlett pears, peeled and cored 7. Let the cake cool for 10 minutes and then turn out onto a

2 egg yolks cake plate. Garnish with the walnuts and serve.

¼ cup molasses
B/d cup honey
¼ cup hot water Candied Walnuts
3 egg whites
Toast about 1 lb (3 cups) of shelled nuts on an ungreased baking sheet
2 tbsp butter
in a 300°F oven until they begin to darken in color and give off a rich,
½ cup packed light brown sugar
toasted aroma. Stir the nuts once or twice so the nuts on the edges
2 cups toasted and/or candied walnut halves don’t overcook before the ones in the center are finished. Immediately
(see Candied Walnuts, right)
transfer the nuts to a metal bowl that you’ve brushed with butter.

Make the sugar syrup for the nuts: Combine ¾ cup granulated

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. Leave one burner sugar, ½ cup water, and 2 tbsp honey in a saucepan and cook until

b r e a k fa st  |  17 9
off. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn the mixture reaches the hard-crack stage (300°F). Use a candy ther-

down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- mometer to test the syrup, or pour a small amount into a cup of cold

ing of white ash. Push the coals to one side of the grill. Clean water. The sugar should be easy to snap into pieces once it cools.

the cooking grate. Pour the syrup over the nuts, stir with a buttered or oiled spoon,

2. Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and then spread the mixture on a buttered baking sheet. Once the

ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, and allspice into a me- nuts have cooled, break them into small chunks and store in an air-

dium-sized bowl. Set aside. tight container at room temperature for up to 1 month.
 herbed crêpes
with Grilled Asparagus and Shallots

Y
ou could easily fill these crêpes ahead of time. Put the shallots. Roll up the crêpes. Serve the crêpes on a heated
filled crêpes in a lightly oiled baking dish, cover the pan platter or plates, topped with the sauce.
with foil, and refrigerate up to 12 hours before serving. Then,
warm them up in a hot oven or right on the grill.
makes 8 servings Herbed Crêpes
¼ cup mustard

T
o make dessert crêpes with this recipe, substitute 4 tsp
1 cup sour cream
sugar for the chopped herbs.
¼ cup chopped tarragon
makes 16 crêpes
2 bunches asparagus, trimmed and peeled
16 shallots, cut into slices ¼-inch-thick 2½ cups milk, or more as needed

¼ cup vegetable oil 8 eggs

2 tsp salt ¼ cup melted butter

1 tsp ground black pepper 2 cups all-purpose flour, or more as needed

1 cup crumbled goat cheese 1 tsp salt

16 Herbed Crêpes (recipe follows) ½ cup chopped herbs of choice (tarragon, parsley, thyme, etc.)
Vegetable oil or cooking spray, as needed
1. Mix together the mustard, sour cream, and tarragon to
make a sauce. Refrigerate in a covered container until ready 1. Mix together the 21/2 cups milk, the eggs, and butter until
to use (it will last up to 2 days). evenly blended. Add the 2 cups of flour, the salt, and herbs,
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- and stir until smooth. Add a little more milk or flour if neces-
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are sary to give the batter the consistency of heavy cream. Cover
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the the batter and refrigerate for at least 1 and up to 8 hours.
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 2. Heat an 8-inch crêpe pan over medium-high heat. Brush
3. Brush the asparagus and the shallots lightly with vege- it lightly with the oil. Ladle about 1/4 cup of the batter into the
table oil and season with salt and pepper. center of the pan. Tilt the pan to swirl the batter over the sur-

b r e a kfa st  |  18 1
4. Place a 5-inch-square piece of foil on the grill. Place the face to the edges.
shallots on top of the foil and cook for about 15 minutes, then 3. Cook the crêpe until the edges are brown and the un-
add the asparagus to the grill. Continue to cook the shallots derside is golden, about 1 minute. Flip and cook 30 seconds
until tender, about 15 minutes more. Grill the asparagus until more or until the crêpe is golden brown on both sides. Slide
tender, about 5 to 7 minutes per side. the crêpe onto a plate.
5. Spoon 1 tbsp of goat cheese lengthwise in the center of 4. Repeat with the remaining batter, stacking the finished
each crêpe. Top each with 4 asparagus spears and 2 tbsp of crêpes slightly off-center so they will be easier to separate.
 spinach-feta omelet

T
he filling for this omelet was inspired by spanako- 3. Add the spinach to the pan and sauté, stirring often,
pita, a savory Greek pastry filled with spinach and feta until the spinach is just wilted, about 2 minutes. Season the
cheese. You can substitute frozen spinach that you’ve de- mixture with 1 tsp of the salt and 1/2 tsp of the pepper. Move
frosted, drained, and chopped for the fresh spinach. the pan to indirect heat to keep warm.
makes 8 servings 4. Blend the eggs and milk until the yolks and whites are
mixed. Season with the remaining salt and pepper.
6 tbsp canola oil
5. To make each individual omelet: Heat an omelet pan over
½ cup minced shallots
direct heat and add about 11/2 tsp of the oil. Heat until almost
4 tsp minced garlic smoking, tilting the pan to coat the entire surface of the pan.
6 cups spinach leaves, torn into large pieces 6. Pour 1/2 cup of the beaten eggs into the pan. Swirl the pan
1 tbsp salt on the grill while stirring the eggs in the opposite direction
1½ tsp ground black pepper with a heatproof rubber spatula or a wooden spoon. Con-
24 large eggs tinue to move the pan and utensil at the same time until the
½ cup milk egg mixture has coagulated slightly, about 15 to 20 seconds.
1 cup crumbled feta cheese Smooth out the eggs into an even layer with a wooden spoon
4 tsp chopped dill or by shaking the pan.
7. Place 2 tbsp of the feta cheese, 1/2 tsp of the dill, and about
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. 1/4 cup of the spinach mixture lengthwise down the center of
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn the omelet. Let the egg mixture nearly finish cooking with-
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- out stirring, about 45 seconds to 1 minute.
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side 8. Flip the omelet in half over the filling and slide the om-
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. elet onto a plate. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
2. Heat a cast-iron skillet over direct heat on the grill and
add 2 tbsp of the oil. Add the shallots and garlic and sauté,
stirring frequently, until translucent, about 1 minute.
1 82  |  g r il l in g
 s pa n i s h o m e l e t

I
f you have grilled sweet onions or grilled peppers on 6 minutes. Add the garlic to the pan and sauté, stirring often,
hand from a previous session at the grill, substitute them until the garlic is aromatic, about 1 minute more. Season with
for the sautéed peppers and onions called for in this recipe. 1 tsp of the salt and 1/2 tsp of the pepper. Move the pan to indi-
makes 8 servings rect heat to keep warm.
3. Blend the eggs and milk until the yolks and whites are
6 tbsp vegetable oil
mixed. Season with the remaining salt and pepper.
2 cups small-dice yellow onion
4. To make each individual omelet: Heat an omelet pan
2 cups small-dice green pepper over direct heat on the grill and add about 11/2 tsp of the butter
4 tsp minced garlic or oil. Heat until almost smoking, tilting the pan to coat the
1 tbsp salt entire surface of the pan.
1½ tsp ground black pepper 5. Pour 1/2 cup of the beaten eggs into the pan. Swirl the
24 large eggs pan on the grill while stirring the eggs in the opposite di-
½ cup milk rection with a heatproof rubber spatula or a wooden spoon.
¼ cup clarified butter or canola oil Continue to move the pan and stir at the same time until the
1 cup grated manchego cheese egg mixture has coagulated slightly, about 15 to 20 seconds.
Smooth out the egg into an even layer with a wooden spoon
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. or by shaking the pan.
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn 6. Place about 2 tbsp of the manchego and some of the
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- onion mixture lengthwise down the center of the omelet. Let
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side the egg mixture nearly finish cooking without stirring, about
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. 45 seconds to 1 minute.
2. Heat a cast-iron skillet over direct heat on the grill and 7. Flip the omelet in half over the filling and slide the om-
add 2 tbsp of the oil. Add the onion and green pepper and elet onto a plate. Repeat with the remaining ingredients.
sauté, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent, 5 to
1 8 4  |  g r i l l i n g
 fried eggs
with Mushrooms and Sausage

T
he mushrooms and onions are a great topping for 3. Add another 2 tbsp of the oil to the pan over direct heat.
this breakfast dish, but they are not essential. If you Add the onions and sauté until lightly browned, about 5 to 7
like, griddle some hard rolls or bagels and make a sandwich minutes. Return the mushrooms to the pan and season with
from this classic combination. about 1 tsp salt and 1/2 tsp of pepper, or to taste. Move the pan
makes 8 servings to indirect heat to keep warm.
4. Divide the sausage into 8 equal portions and shape into
½ cup canola oil
patties. Heat a cast-iron skillet over direct heat on the grill.
¾ pound mushrooms, thinly sliced
Add the sausage patties and fry until golden brown and
4 cups thin-sliced yellow onions cooked thoroughly, 3 to 5 minutes on each side. Drain on
1 tbsp salt, or to taste paper towels and keep warm.
2 tsp ground black pepper, or to taste 5. Wipe out the skillet you used to cook the sausage and
¾ pound breakfast sausage place over direct heat on the grill. Add the remaining oil to
16 large eggs the pan. Heat the oil until hot but not smoking, tilting the
pan to coat the entire surface of the pan. Crack the eggs di-
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. rectly into the hot pan and immediately move the pan to in-
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn direct heat to finish frying them. Fry the eggs, shaking the
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- pan occasionally to keep the eggs from sticking. Season the
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side eggs with salt and pepper. Fry for about 2 minutes for sunny-
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. side-up eggs, 3 minutes for medium yolks, and 31/2 to 4 min-
2. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a pan over direct heat on the grill utes for hard yolks.
until almost smoking. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stir- 6. Serve the fried eggs at once topped with some of the
ring occasionally, until lightly caramelized, 5 to 6 minutes. mushroom mixture and a sausage patty.
Remove the mushrooms from the pan and set aside.

b r e a kfa st   |   1 8 5
 toad in a hole
with Red Pepper Ketchup

T
his is only as good as the ingredients that you put in it. up eggs, 3 minutes for medium yolks, and 31/2 to 4 minutes for
If you use really flavorful artisan bread, the whole dish hard yolks. Flip the bread over, being careful not to break the
will taste better. You may serve one or two pieces, depending yolk, and cook for 30 seconds more, if desired.
on your guest’s appetite. 5. Serve immediately with the Red Pepper Ketchup on top
makes 8 servings or on the side.

16 slices sourdough bread, about ¾ inch thick

1 cup melted butter, or as needed
Red Pepper Ketchup
16 eggs
makes 2 cups
2 tsp salt, or to taste
1 tsp ground black pepper, or to taste ¼ cup olive oil
1 cup Red Pepper Ketchup (recipe follows) 5 red peppers, diced
2 tbsp minced shallots
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off. ¾ cup dry white wine
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
¾ cup chicken or vegetable broth
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
1 tsp salt
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
½ tsp ground black pepper
of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
2. Cut holes in the center of each slice of bread using a 21/2-
inch biscuit cutter. Be sure not to get too close to the crust of 1. Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat.
the bread. Brush both sides of each slice of bread with the Add the peppers and shallots and sauté until tender, about 5
melted butter. to 6 minutes.
3. Heat a griddle to medium over direct heat on the grill. 2. Deglaze the pan with the white wine, making sure to
Griddle the bread on 1 side until golden brown, about 1 to 2 scrape up anything that is stuck to the bottom of the pan.
minutes. Flip each piece of bread over and crack 1 egg into 3. Add the broth and simmer until reduced to half the orig-
the hole in each piece of bread. inal volume. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature.

b r e a kfa st  |  1 8 7
4. Move the pan to indirect heat. Season the eggs with salt 4. Purée the mixture until smooth. Season the ketchup
and pepper. Fry the eggs for about 2 minutes for sunny-side- with the salt and pepper.
 c o r n m e a l - c ru s t e d t ro u t

B
utterflying whole trout makes it easier to cook and 3. Season the trout with the salt and pepper and dredge in
more convenient to eat. the cornmeal.
makes 8 servings 4. Return the bacon fat in the skillet to direct heat on the
grill and add enough of the oil to come to a depth of 1/4 inch.
8 thick slices bacon, diced small
5. Heat the oil until the surface ripples; it should not be
8 brook trout, butterflied
smoking, however. Add the trout, working in batches to avoid
1 tbsp salt overcrowding the pan. Pan-fry until golden brown on both
1 tsp ground black pepper sides, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Carefully slide the pan to
3 cups cornmeal indirect heat if needed to prevent scorching.
Canola oil, as needed 6. Serve the trout immediately on heated plates, garnished
Fried parsley (see note at right) with the reserved bacon, fried parsley, and lemon wedges.
2 lemons, cut into wedges

Fried Parsley
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn Fried parsley is a traditional garnish for pan-fried fish. To prepare

down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat- it, select attractive sprigs of parsley, clean them well in cool water,

ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side and spin dry completely. Heat enough canola oil to fill a small sauce-

of the grill. Clean the cooking grate. pan to a ½-inch depth. Add the sprigs a few at a time. They should

2. Preheat a large cast-iron skillet over direct heat on the be completely submerged in oil. Fry, stirring gently, until translucent

grill until hot. Add the bacon and cook, stirring, until crisp, and crisp, about 30 to 45 seconds. Remove the sprigs with a slotted

about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the bacon with a slotted spoon spoon and drain on paper towels. Continue until all of the parsley is

and set aside on paper towels to drain. Reserve the skillet fried. It will keep at room temperature, uncovered, up to 4 hours.

with the bacon drippings.

left to right  Dredge the fish lightly in-

side and out with cornmeal. Be sure not to

overcrowd the pan and be careful when flip-

1 8 8   |   g r i l l in g

ping the fish so that the oil doesn’t splash.

You can serve the fish whole or cut them

into 2 fillets when it is time to eat. Oppo-

site, the Cornmeal-crusted Trout, garnished

with lemon wedges and fried parsley.

 grilled flank steak hash

U
se whatever grilled meat you have on hand for this 1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high; leave one burner off.
hash. Even grilled or poached fish is delicious. Make If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
the hash ahead of time and store it already shaped for a down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
quicker start to the day. Top the hash with scrambled eggs, ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even layer on one side
if you wish. of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
makes 8 servings 2. Combine the flank steak, potatoes, onions, celery, green
beans, and mushrooms in a large bowl. Drizzle 2 tbsp oil over
2¼ lb grilled flank steak, diced small
the mixture, add the salt and pepper, and toss to coat evenly.
2½ cups peeled, diced potatoes
3. Grind the mixture through a meat grinder or chop into a
1½ cups diced yellow onions coarse paste with a chef’s knife. Form into 16 patties.
1 cup diced celery 4. Brush the patties with the remaining oil and grill over
½ cup diced green beans (blanched and cooled direct heat until crisp on the first side, about 2 minutes. Turn
before dicing) the patties over and move them to indirect heat. Continue
½ cup minced mushrooms to grill, covered, until the hash is crisp and cooked through,
¼ cup vegetable oil turning as necessary, about 10 minutes more.
½ tsp salt 5. Serve the hash immediately on a heated platter or indi-
¼ tsp ground black pepper vidual plates.
1 90   |  g r i l l in g
 grilled ham steaks
with Grilled Pineapple Salsa

C
ountry ham can be very salty. To remove some of the ½ pineapple, sliced ¼ inch thick
salt, blanch the ham steaks by placing them in a skillet ½ red onion, sliced ¼ inch thick
with enough cold water to cover generously. Bring to a sim- 1 jalapeño
mer over low heat, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain and 5 tbsp peanut oil
pat the steaks dry before continuing with the recipe. 1½ tsp salt, or to taste
makes 8 servings
¾ tsp ground black pepper, or to taste

8 ham steaks, ¼ inch thick 3 tbsp lime juice

¼ cup canola oil, or as needed ¾ tsp grated lime zest

¾ tsp ground black pepper 3 tbsp chopped basil

1 cup Grilled Pineapple Salsa (recipe follows)

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char-

1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 2. Brush the pineapple, onion, and the jalapeño with about
2. Brush the ham steaks with the canola oil and season 2 tbsp of the oil and season with 1/2 tsp of the salt and 1/4 tsp of
with the pepper. the pepper. Grill over direct heat until well marked and ten-
3. Grill the ham steaks on 1 side until marked, about 4 min- der, about 2 to 3 minutes per side for the pineapple, 4 minutes
utes. Flip the ham steaks over and grill for 2 to 3 minutes, or per side for the onion, and 2 to 3 minutes per side for the jala-
until cooked through and deep golden brown on both sides. peño. Remove from the grill and let cool.
4. Spoon 2 tbsp of the salsa over each ham steak and serve 3. Cut the pineapple and the onions into a small dice.
immediately. Mince the jalapeño. Combine the pineapple, onion, and jala-
peño with the remaining peanut oil, the lime juice, lime zest,
Grilled Pineapple Salsa and basil. Season with the remaining salt and pepper.
4. Allow the mixture to stand for 1 hour before using. Store

b r e a k fa st  |  1 91
A
touch of basil, along with freshly grilled pineapple, any unused salsa in a covered container in the refrigerator
gives a unique twist to this flavorful salsa. for up to 4 days.
makes 2 cups
 grilled skirt steak
with Jalapeño-Cilantro Butter

I
f you can find skirt steak, it is a great match for the gutsy piece of plastic wrap. Roll into a 1-inch-diameter cylinder and
flavors of this green-flecked butter. Serve the steaks with secure the ends by twisting. Transfer to the refrigerator and
biscuits or cornbread and plenty of campfire coffee. chill until firm, about 2 hours. (See Flavored Butters, page 119)
makes 8 servings 2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high, leaving one burner
off. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn
4 tbsp softened unsalted butter
down until the coals are glowing red with a moderate coat-
2 tbsp minced fresh cilantro
ing of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed on one side
1 tbsp finely minced jalapeño of the grill. Clean the cooking grate.
Grated zest of - lime 3. Season the steaks with salt and pepper and brush them
Salt and freshly ground pepper lightly with oil. Grill the steaks on the first side until marked,
4 skirt steaks (about 8 oz each) about 3 minutes. Turn the steaks over and continue cooking
Vegetable oil for brushing until the meat registers 145°F for medium-rare, 3 to 4 minutes
more. If you prefer beef done medium, move the steaks to the
1. For the Jalapeño-Cilantro Butter, blend the butter with cooler grill zone and cook for 5 to 6 minutes more.
the cilantro, jalapeño, lime zest, ¼ tsp salt, and ¼ tsp pep- 4. Cut the steaks into portions and top each portion with a
per. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Transfer the butter onto a slice of the flavored butter and serve at once.
1 92   |   g r i l l in g
 desserts

D
esserts from the grill might seem revolutionary, It is always important to clean your grill before you put
but if you’ve ever enjoyed a toasted marshmallow sand- foods down on it to cook, but it is especially important when
wiched with graham crackers and chocolate, then you’ve you are grilling sweet foods like fruits or cakes. Skewers and
made dessert over an open fire. We’ve included fresh fruits, hand racks help you turn your grilled desserts more eas-
skewered or sliced, and grilled just long enough to get a touch ily. Most grilled desserts aren’t on the fire for very long, so a
of the grill’s intense flavor and paired them with cooling ice brisk, hot fire is best. A little smoke and charring is great, but
creams, ice milks, and sorbets. Cakes—pound cake and angel with all the sugar in sweet foods, you need to keep a watchful
food cake—are great from the grill too. eye to avoid blackening them to the point of bitterness.

Brownies with Grilled Fruit Salsa, 195 Grilled Peppered Pineapple with Tequila–Orange Sauce

Bananas Foster Tartlets, 197 and Candied Kumquats, 210

Crêpes with Grilled Pears and Butterscotch Sauce, 199 Grilled Papaya and Mango Skewers with Lime Sorbet, 212

Grilled Banana Split with homemade ice cream, 200 Grilled Biscuit Omelets with Wild Strawberries, 213

Grilled Fruit Skewers with Buttermilk Ice Milk, 205 S’mores, 214

Grilled Peaches with Vanilla Ice Cream and Grilled Pound Cake with Coffee Ganache, 216

Raspberry Sauce, 207 Grilled Angel Food Cake with Fresh Berries, 219

Baked Apples Filled with Walnuts and Cream, 208

1 94   |  g r i l l in g
 b ro w n i e s
with Grilled Fruit Salsa

F
udge brownies pair well with the sweet-tart tastes of ture. Serve the salsa over the brownies, or store in a covered
this grilled fruit salsa. These brownies freeze very well, container in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
so make a double batch to have on hand.
Brownies
makes 8 servings
makes 16 bars
½ papaya, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
1C/d cup butter
1 mango, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
2 cups chopped unsweetened chocolate
¼ honeydew melon, peeled and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices
6 large eggs
6 strawberries, hulled and diced small
3C/d cups granulated sugar
2 tbsp passion fruit juice
2 tsp vanilla extract
1 tbsp fine-chopped mint
¼ tsp salt
B/d cup amaretto liqueur
B/d cup cake flour, sifted
1 cup orange juice
2 cups coarse-chopped toasted pecans
½ cup granulated sugar
8 Brownies (recipe follows)
1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a baking pan (13 × 9 × 2 inches)
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a with parchment paper, making sure the paper comes up the
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals sides of the pan.
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the 2. Melt the butter and chocolate in a metal bowl over a pan
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. of simmering water, blending gently (or use a double boiler).
2. Grill the papaya, mango, and honeydew over direct heat Remove from heat.
until well marked on both sides, about 1 to 2 minutes per side 3. Whip the eggs, sugar, vanilla, and salt on high speed
for the mango and papaya and 1 minute for the honeydew. until thick and light in color, about 8 minutes. Blend 1/3 of the
Remove from the grill and let cool to room temperature. egg mixture into the melted chocolate, then return it to the
3. Cut the grilled fruit slices into a 1/4-inch dice. Combine remaining egg mixture and blend on medium seed, scraping

d e s s e rts   |   195
the grilled fruit, strawberries, passion fruit juice, and mint. the bowl as needed.
Refrigerate in a covered container for at least 1 and up to 8 4. Mix in the flour and nuts on low speed until just blended.
hours to allow the flavors to develop. The batter will be very wet. Pour the batter into the prepared
4. Combine the amaretto, orange juice, and sugar in a sauce- pan and spread out evenly.
pan and bring to a boil. Boil until reduced by half, about 30 5. Bake the brownies until a crust forms but they are still
minutes. Allow the mixture to cool to room temperature. moist in the center, about 45 to 50 minutes. Let cool com-
5. Gently stir together the reduced liquid and the fruit mix- pletely in the pan. Cut into 16 bars.
 bananas foster tartlets

B
ananas Foster is a classic, and dramatic, tableside 8 greased 3-inch tartlet pans with the dough. (If you cannot
dessert. We’ve grilled the bananas instead of flambéing get 8 rounds after rolling out the dough the first time, gather
them here and present them over pastry cream in a pastry up the scraps, re-roll the dough to 1/8-inch thickness, and cut
case, instead of serving them over ice cream. out the needed rounds.) Trim any excess dough from the
makes 8 servings tartlet pans.
2. Line the dough with 4-inch squares of parchment paper
1-2-3 Dough (recipe follows)
and fill the bottom of the tartlet pans with dried beans or pie
½ cup Pastry Cream (recipe follows)
weights. Chill the dough for 10 minutes in the refrigerator be-
¼ cup heavy cream fore baking.
6 tbsp butter 3. Preheat oven to 350°F.
¼ cup granulated sugar 4. Bake the tartlets for 12 minutes, or until par baked. Re-
1 tsp lemon juice move the beans and the parchment paper and return the
6 tbsp dark or light rum tartlet shells to the oven for 5 minutes, or until the shells are
2 tbsp banana liqueur golden brown. Allow the shells to cool to room temperature.
3 bananas 5. Whip the pastry cream until smooth if it has been refrig-
¼ cup chopped toasted macadamia nuts erated. Whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Combine the pas-
try cream and whipped cream, and spoon the mixture into
1. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to 1/8-inch the tartlet shells, filling each 3/4 full. Refrigerate the shells, cov-
thickness. Cut eight 4-inch rounds out of the dough, and line ered, until ready to use. (recipe continues on page 198)

left to right  Carefully shingle the ba-

nanas on top of the pastry cream; it may

be necessary to use a palette knife or small

butter knife to place the bananas, as they

will be soft. Spoon the sauce over the tart-

lets while they are still on the parchment

d e s s e rts  |  1 9 7
paper just in case it drips. Serve these im-

mediately after assembling them, to take

advantage of the contrast between the hot

bananas and the cold pastry cream.

 6. Heat the butter in a medium-sized skillet over medium- 2. Add the egg and beat until fully incorporated, scraping
high heat. Add the sugar and cook until the sugar has started down the sides as necessary.
to darken slightly. Add the lemon juice and swirl it into the 3. Add the lemon zest and flour, and mix until just incorpo-
butter mixture. rated.
7. Remove the pan from the heat, and pour in the rum and 4. Shape the dough into a disk and chill in the refrigerator
the banana liqueur. Return the pan to the heat and bring to for 1 hour before using.
a simmer. (If desired, you can “flame” the rum with a match.
This is not essential, however.) Keep the sauce warm.
8. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal Pastry Cream
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-

Y
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in ou’ll have better control over this pastry cream as it
an even bed. cooks, with less danger of scorching, if you make the
9. Peel the bananas and cut into rounds or on the diagonal full batch. Any pastry cream you don’t use can be kept in the
about 1/2 inch thick. refrigerator for up to 5 days. You can make it into a quick des-
10. Grill the bananas until just softened, about 1 to 2 min- sert by folding in some whipped cream and serving it as a
utes, basting with the sauce once. mousse or pudding.
11. Cut the bananas in half so that each slice is 1/4 inch thick. makes 4 cups

Divide the bananas evenly among the tartlet shells, shin-

4 cups milk
gling the bananas, if desired. Drizzle the remaining sauce
1 cup granulated sugar
over the bananas. Garnish with the toasted macadamia nuts
and serve immediately. C/d cup cornstarch
6 eggs
1 tbsp vanilla extract

1-2-3 Dough 6 tbsp butter

makes enough for 8 tartlets

1. Combine the milk with half the sugar in a saucepan and
1 cup softened butter bring to a boil.
½ cup granulated sugar 2. Combine the remaining sugar with the cornstarch, add

¾ tsp vanilla extract the eggs, and mix until smooth.

1 egg 3. Temper the egg mixture (see note opposite) into the hot
milk and bring to a full boil, stirring constantly.
½ tsp grated lemon zest
4. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla and butter.
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 98   |  g r i l l i n g

Transfer to a clean container, place a piece of plastic wrap

directly on top the pastry cream, and let cool. Store any un-
1. Cream together the butter, sugar, and vanilla extract by used cream in a covered container in the refrigerator; let cool
hand or on medium speed using the paddle attachment of an thoroughly before storing.
electric mixer until very light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.
 crêpes
with Grilled Pears and Butterscotch Sauce

S
elect pears that are ripe but still firm for this dish; ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
Anjou or Bosc are good choices and readily available. an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
makes 8 servings 2. Bring the cherries and the pear nectar to a simmer in a
saucepan over medium heat. As soon as the nectar is sim-
1 cup dried cherries
mering, remove it from the heat, cover, and let steep for 10
1 cup pear nectar
minutes. Stir in 1/2 cup of the pecans.
1 cup rough-chopped toasted pecans 3. Whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Refrigerate until
1 cup heavy cream ready to serve.
4 medium pears, cored and cut into ½-inch-thick slices 4. Toss the pears with the lemon juice and sugar.
2 tbsp lemon juice 5. Grill the pears over direct heat until tender in the middle
1 tbsp granulated sugar and well marked, 2 to 3 minutes per side.
16 Crêpes (page 181) 6. Spoon some of the cherry mixture lengthwise down
1 cup Butterscotch Sauce (page 203) the center of each crêpe. Divide the grilled pears among the
crêpes. Roll up the crêpes.
1. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal 7. Serve the crêpes topped with the Butterscotch Sauce,
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- the whipped cream, and the remaining pecans.

Tempering
Pastry cream and the custard base for ice creams rely upon a specific To break up the cornstarch, stir it together with the sugar before you

technique, known as tempering. These recipes include a significant add the sugar to the eggs. Blend until smooth.

amount of eggs. Tempering means that you slowly increase the heat 3. Once the milk or cream reaches a simmer, remove the pan from

of the eggs before adding them to the hot milk or cream. Then, they the heat. Ladle a small amount of the hot milk into the egg mixture,

can be added without scrambling or curdling in the pan. To temper stirring as you add it. Continue adding the hot milk or cream until

d e s s e rts  |  19 9
eggs into a hot liquid, follow these steps: you’ve blended about ¹⁄³ of it into the egg mixture. The eggs are tem-

1. Bring the liquid (milk, cream, or a mixture of both) to a simmer, pered at this point.

along with any flavorings you want to include (see page 200 for more 4. Now, pour the egg mixture back into the pan with the rest of the

about flavoring ice creams), and some of the sugar. hot milk or cream and stir.

2. Meanwhile, blend the eggs and remaining sugar until smooth. Pas- 5. Return the pan to low heat and carefully heat the pastry cream

try cream always includes a thickener; our recipe calls for cornstarch. or custard sauce, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.
 grilled banana split
with Homemade Ice Cream

C
hoose firm-ripe bananas for this dish. The heat of 1. Preheat a gas grill to low. If you are using a charcoal grill,
the grill will intensify the bananas’ natural sweetness. build a fire and let it burn down until the coals have a heavy
Fully ripe and soft bananas won’t hold up to the intense heat coating of white ash. Spread the coals in an even bed. Clean
of the grill. the cooking grate.
makes 6 servings 2. Brush the bananas with the melted butter and place on
the grill. Grill the bananas until lightly marked on the first
6 bananas, peeled and cut in half
side, about 1 minute. Turn the bananas carefully and grill on
2 tbsp melted butter
the second side until lightly marked and hot, 1 minute more.
3 cups ice cream: French Vanilla, Dark or White Chocolate, Cherry 3. Place 2 banana halves on each serving plate. Top each
Vanilla, and/or Praline Ice Cream (page 202)
serving with 3 small scoops of the ice cream and spoon the
2 cups sauce: Chocolate, Cherry, and/or Butterscotch Sauce
sauces over the ice cream. Garnish with the whipped cream,
(page 203)
toasted almonds, and cherries.
½ cup coarsely chopped toasted almonds
1 cup whipped cream
6 brandied or maraschino cherries

Making Ice Cream

stir a flavoring into the ice cream’s custard base,
Ice cream is the perfect ending to grilled meals and a perfect foil for
before you freeze the ice cream
grilled fruits. You can certainly use good-quality purchased brands of

ice cream, but with an ice cream freezer and a little planning, you can Melted chocolate and fruit purées are examples of some flavorings

have a fresh batch of ice cream ready to serve in a very short time. you might add this way. To keep the flavor of fruit purées fresh, stir

The basic French Vanilla Ice Cream recipe is made from essen- them into a chilled custard base.

tially the same ingredients as a custard. Making variations is simple.

stir or fold “add-ins” and ripples after the ice cream
2 00   |  g r i l l in g

You have three basic options to flavor an ice cream made from a cus-
has frozen but before transferring it to the freezer
tard base, like this one:

Add-ins like chopped nuts, diced or whole fruit pieces, choco-

add a flavoring to the milk and cream as it heats
late pieces, crushed cookies, or candy bars are folded in until they

Things like vanilla beans, whole spices, coarsely ground coffee, or are evenly mixed throughout. Ripples—fudge, caramel, or butter-

tea are the ingredients you want to steep into the ice cream. Then, scotch, for instance—are just folded into the ice cream until they are

they are strained out before you freeze the ice cream. streaked throughout the batch.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F
French Vanilla Ice Cream
F F F F F F
Dark or White Chocolate
Ice Cream F F F F
T
F F his basic ice cream can be flavored to suit your mood
F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
or the bounty of the farmer’s market. See the sugges-
tions following this recipe, but don’t limit yourself to what
we’ve included here. Try peaches, pistachios, caramel sauce,
F F F F F F F F F F F F
Add 1 cup of milk to the cream before bringing it to a simmer.
Strain the ice cream base over 2/3 cup finely chopped dark or
white chocolate, and stir the mixture until the chocolate has
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
chocolate chunks, or crushed cookies to create your own melted and is well blended. Place the bowl over an ice bath
specialty of the house. and stir until cooled properly.
makes 4 cups
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F
2 cups heavy cream

F
½ cup granulated sugar
B/i tsp salt
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F
Cherry Vanilla Ice Cream
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
Omit the vanilla bean. Add 11/2 tsp almond extract to the ice
1 vanilla bean, split, or 2 tsp vanilla extract cream before you put it in the ice cream freezer. Fold 1 cup
6 large egg yolks pitted sweet or sour cherries into the ice cream when you
F F F F F F F take it out of the ice cream freezer, before putting it into the
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
1. Combine the cream, 1/4 cup of the sugar, and the salt in
a heavy-gauge pan over medium heat and bring to a simmer.
If you are using a split vanilla bean, add it to the milk and
F F F F F F F F F F F
freezer to firm and ripen.

F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F
as soon as it reaches a simmer.
F F F
cream as it comes to a simmer. Remove the pan from the heat

2. Blend the egg yolks with the remaining 1/4 cup sugar until
F F F F F F F F
Praline Ice Cream
F F F F
Substitute brown sugar for the granulated sugar. Add 2 tbsp
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
smooth and light. Ladle about half of the hot milk mixture into praline paste (available in some specialty shops or through
the blended yolks, adding it a little at a time and whisking con- mail-order sources) to the milk and cream as the mixture
stantly as you work. (See tempering note on page 199.) comes to a simmer. Fold 1 cup coarse-chopped toasted hazel-
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
3. Pour the yolk mixture into the cream and return the pan nuts into the ice cream when you take it out of the ice cream
to low heat. Cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, freezer, before putting it into the freezer to firm and ripen.
until thickened enough to cling to the back of the spoon. (Do
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
not bring to a full boil.)
4. Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean
container set in a bowl of ice water. If you are using vanilla
F extract, stir it into the mixture now. Continue to stir until the
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
2 02   |   g r i l l in g

ice cream base has cooled to 70°F. Cover the container, re-
frigerate for at least 12 hours.
F 5. Set up your ice cream freezer according to the manufac-
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F
is very thick but still soft enough to stir.
F F
turer’s directions, add the ice cream base, and freeze until it

6. Transfer the ice cream to a freezer container and place in

F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
the freezer to firm and ripen for at least 4 hours before serving.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
Hot Chocolate Sauce
makes 2 cups
F F F F F F F F F F F
Butterscotch Sauce
makes 2 cups
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
1 cup heavy cream
2 tsp vanilla extract
F F F F F
2 cups fine-chopped bittersweet chocolate

F F F F F F
¾ cup light corn syrup
½ cup butter
F F F F
1B/d cups packed dark brown sugar

F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F
1. Place the chocolate in a stainless-steel bowl.
F
2. Bring the cream just to a simmer and pour it over the
F F F F F F
2 tbsp water
Pinch salt
F
½ cup heavy cream
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
chocolate. Add the vanilla and whisk until smooth.
3. Serve the sauce now, or let cool and store in a covered
container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Reheat in a mi- 1. Combine the brown sugar, syrup, butter, water and salt
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
crowave on low power or in a double boiler. in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat,
stirring constantly. Boil for 2 minutes.
2. Remove the pan from the heat, let cool slightly, and stir
F Cherry Sauce
F F F F F in the cream.
F F F F F F F
F F
F F
makes 2 cups
F F
1¼ lb pitted Bing cherries (about 3¾ cups)
F F F F F F F F F F F F
3. Serve the sauce now, or let cool and store in a covered

F
container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Reheat in a mi-
crowave on low power or in a double boiler.
F F F F F F F F
F F
F F
2½ cups granulated sugar
¾ cup water
¼ tsp almond extract
F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F
1½ tsp lemon juice, or to taste

F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
1. Combine the cherries, sugar, and water in a saucepan,
crushing the cherries slightly with the back of a wooden
spoon to release some of their juices. Bring to a simmer over
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
medium heat. Remove from the heat, cover, and let the cher-
ries steep for 1 hour.
2. Add the water and almond extract. Return the pan to
F medium heat and bring to a simmer. Reduce the heat to low
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r il l i n g  |   2 0 3
and continue to simmer the sauce until the juices thicken,
about 30 minutes.
F 3. Add the lemon juice. (Optional: Let the sauce cool slightly
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F
F F F F F
and then purée the sauce in a blender for a smooth sauce.)

F
4. Serve the sauce now, or let cool and store in a covered
container in the refrigerator for up to 10 days. Reheat in a mi-
F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
crowave on low power or in a double boiler.

F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 g r i l l e d f ru i t s k e w e r s
with Buttermilk Ice Milk

B
uttermilk gives the ice milk served with these fruit 3 cups milk
skewers a delicious tang. It’s the perfect foil for tropical 1 cup heavy cream
fruits like bananas, pineapples, mangos, and papayas. When 1 cup plus 2 tbsp granulated sugar
these fruits aren’t in season, substitute other fruits like tree- ¼ tsp salt
ripened peaches, plums, nectarines, and apricots. 1¼ cups egg yolks
makes 8 servings
1 tbsp vanilla extract

8 bamboo skewers, 10 inches long 1 cup buttermilk

2 mangos, peeled and seeded

2 small papayas, peeled and seeded 1. Heat the milk, heavy cream, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the
¼ pineapple, peeled and cored salt in a saucepan over medium heat until the mixture just
8 strawberries reaches a boil. Remove from the heat.
Buttermilk Ice Milk (recipe follows) 2. Whisk together the egg yolks and the remaining sugar.
Temper the egg mixture (see tempering note on page 199) by
1. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes. gradually adding about one-half of the hot milk mixture into
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- the egg mixture, whipping constantly. Add the tempered
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are egg mixture to the remaining hot milk in the saucepan and
glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the whisk to combine.
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. 3. Return the saucepan to the heat and cook, stirring con-
3. Cut the fruits into relatively equal-sized pieces. Thread stantly, until the mixture thickens enough to evenly coat the
the fruit onto the skewers, alternating them. Grill the fruit back of a spoon (180°F), about 2 to 3 minutes.
skewers, turning as necessary, until slightly charred and hot, 4. Stir in the vanilla extract. Strain the mixture into a metal
about 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the ripeness of the fruit. container and immediately transfer to an ice bath. Cool to
4. Serve the fruit skewers with the Buttermilk Ice Milk. below 40°F. Cover and refrigerate the mixture for at least 8
and up to 12 hours.
5. Stir the buttermilk into the chilled base. Process the

d e s s e rts   |   20 5
Buttermilk Ice Milk mixture in an ice cream machine according to the manufac-
turer’s instructions. Transfer the ice milk from the machine

A
n ice milk is lower in fat than a traditional custard- to storage containers, and pack it tightly. Cover and freeze for
based ice cream, but adding a bit of heavy cream gives several hours or overnight before serving.
this ice milk a noticeable richness.
makes 8 servings
 grilled peaches
with Vanilla Ice Cream and Raspberry Sauce

T
his dessert echoes the flavors of a classic dessert, 2. Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve. Add addi-
peach Melba. tional sugar and/or lemon juice to taste, if desired.
makes 8 servings 3. Serve now, or store in a covered container in the refriger-
ator for up to 7 days.
4 peaches, cut into ½-inch-thick slices
¼ cup granulated sugar
Citrus Crisps
2 tbsp lemon juice
4 cups French Vanilla Ice Cream (see page 202) makes 24 cookies

1 cup Raspberry Sauce (recipe follows)

1 cup softened butter
8 Citrus Crisps (recipe follows)
½ cup granulated sugar
½ tsp salt
1. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
½ tsp vanilla extract
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
1½ cups quick-cooking rolled oats
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
1 cup all-purpose flour, sifted
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
½ cup grated lemon zest
2. Toss the peaches with the sugar and lemon juice.
3. Grill the peaches over direct heat until tender in the
middle and well marked, 2 to 3 minutes per side 1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Line 2 baking sheets with parch-
4. Serve the peaches over the French Vanilla Ice Cream, ment paper or silicone baking mats.
topped with the Raspberry Sauce and garnished with the 2. Cream together the butter, sugar, salt, and vanilla ex-
Citrus Crisps. tract by hand or using the paddle attachment of an electric
mixer until very smooth and light, about 3 minutes.
3. Add the oats, flour, and lemon zest, and mix on low speed
Raspberry Sauce until just combined, scraping down the bowl as necessary to
blend evenly.
makes 2 cups
4. Form the dough into 1-inch balls (about 1 tbsp of dough

de s s e rts  |  2 0 7
1 lb raspberries, fresh or frozen per ball) and place in even rows approximately 2 inches apart
½ cup granulated sugar, or more to taste on the prepared sheet pans. Flatten slightly with the palm of
1 tbsp lemon juice, or more to taste your hand.
5. Bake until the edges are light golden brown, about 12 to
1. Combine the raspberries, sugar, and lemon juice in a 15 minutes. Transfer to wire racks and let cool completely be-
saucepan over medium heat. Simmer, stirring, until the sugar fore serving or storing in airtight containers.
has dissolved, about 10 minutes.
 baked apples
Filled with Walnuts and Cream

T
hese baked apples are perfect for a cookout in the fall. glowing red with a moderate coating of white ash. Spread the
They are the kind of dessert you’d want to put on the coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
grill when you just take off your entrée. By the time you’ve 2. Combine the walnuts, brown sugar, butter, prunes, and
eaten and brewed coffee, the apples are ready to eat, and the lemon zest, and mix until evenly blended. Pack the mixture
smell is wonderful. If you can’t find Calvados, substitute co- into the cored apples.
gnac or brandy. 3. Cut 8 large rectangles of foil and fold each in half to
makes 8 servings make squares. Set 1 filled apple in the center of each square.
Drizzle each apple with some of the calvados (less than 1 tsp
2 tbsp chopped toasted walnuts
per apple) and a little of the maple syrup (less than 1 tsp per
2 tbsp packed light brown sugar
apple). Pull up the sides of the foil around the apple to make
2 tbsp softened butter a vented pouch.
8 prunes, pitted and diced small 4. Grill the apples over direct heat until soft and the juices
½ tsp grated lemon zest that collect in the bottom of the pouch are a rich brown,
about 35 to 40 minutes. Turn the pouches occasionally as the
8 McIntosh apples, cored
apples cook.
2 tbsp Calvados
5. Whip the heavy cream just until lightly thickened and
3 tbsp maple syrup, grade B still somewhat runny. Whisk in the remaining maple syrup.
½ cup heavy cream 6. To serve, place a baked apple on each serving dish. Pour
the accumulated juices from the foil pouches over the grilled
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium. If you are using a char- apples, then spoon some of the whipped cream over them.
coal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are Serve immediately.

Pick up a variety of apples from your local farmer’s market once the

season starts and try them out, to see which one is your favorite to
2 08   |  g r i l l i n g

use in this dessert.

 grilled peppered pineapple
with Tequila–Orange Sauce and Candied Kumquats

Candied Kumquats
I
f you can’t find kumquats in the store, cut the peel of two
oranges into thin strips and use that in place of the halved

K
kumquats called for in the Candied Kumquat recipe. umquats look like miniature oranges. They look
makes 8 servings wonderful in arrangements of flowers and fruit, but it
would be a shame to miss their fragrant aroma and intrigu-
3 cups orange juice
ing texture: you can eat fresh kumquats whole, skin and all.
1 cup silver tequila
They are seasonal items, so when you see them, grab a few
½ cup honey containers and make these candied kumquats to enjoy for
1 large pineapple, cut into ½-inch-thick rings weeks to come.
1 tbsp brine-packed green peppercorns, rinsed well makes 1¼ cups
2 cups French Vanilla Ice Cream (see page 202)
Water, as needed
¾ cup Candied Kumquats (recipe follows)
1¼ cups halved and seeded kumquats

1. Combine the orange juice, tequila, and honey in a small, 2¼ cups granulated sugar

heavy saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until reduced to B/d cup corn syrup

about 1 cup, about 45 to 50 minutes. The sauce will appear

slightly thick and syrupy. Keep warm. (If the sauce is made in
advance, let the sauce cool and store in a covered container 1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add the kumquats.
in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Warm the sauce before Boil for 1 minute, then drain. Repeat twice more, using fresh
serving.) water each time. Set aside.
2. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal 2. Combine 11/2 cups water, the sugar, and corn syrup in
grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow- a saucepan and bring to a bare simmer. Add the blanched
ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in kumquats and let poach until all traces of bitterness are gone
an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. and the kumquat peel is very soft, about 1 hour and 45 min-
3. Rub both sides of the pineapple rings with the pepper- utes. (There should be only very slight action on the surface
corns. Grill over direct heat, turning as necessary, until both of the poaching liquid with few if any bubbles breaking the
2 10   |  g r i l l in g

sides are well caramelized, about 6 to 8 minutes. surface. Some steam should billow from the surface.)
4. Serve the grilled pineapple on dessert plates, drizzled 3. Remove the pan from the heat and let the kumquats cool
with the tequila-orange sauce and topped with a 1/4-cup to room temperature in the cooking syrup. Store the kum-
scoop of vanilla ice cream. Garnish with the Candied Kum- quats in the syrup in covered containers in the refrigerator
quats and serve immediately. for up to 4 weeks.
 g r i l l e d p a p aya a n d m a n g o s k e w e r s
with Lime Sorbet

I
t is extremely important to use ripe fruit for this. The lime tute either 5 or 6 Persian limes (which have more juice) or use
sorbet is fairly tart and it needs the sweetness of the ripe purchased Key lime juice.
fruit for balance. There is just enough sorbet to coat the fruit makes 4 cups

in a little tart syrup when it melts for a nice flavor contrast.

2 cups granulated sugar
makes 8 servings
2½ cups water
8 bamboo skewers 3 tbsp corn syrup
1 large papaya, cut into 1-inch cubes 2 cups Key lime juice
4 medium mangoes, cut into 1-inch cubes
Key Lime Sorbet (recipe follows) 1. Combine the sugar, 1 cup of the water, and the corn syrup
in a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring oc-
1. Soak the skewers in cool water for 30 minutes. casionally. As soon as the sugar has melted and the boil has
2. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a been reached, remove the pan from the heat and let cool to
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals room temperature.
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the 2. Add the lime juice and the remaining 11/2 cups water,
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate. and stir until evenly blended. Transfer to a container, cover,
3. Thread 6 pieces of each fruit onto each skewer. and chill thoroughly in the refrigerator for at least 3 and up
4. Grill the fruit skewers over direct heat, turning as nec- to 24 hours.
essary, until the fruit is tender and well marked, about 5 to 6 3. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the man-
minutes. ufacturer’s instructions. Pack into storage containers and
5. Serve the fruit skewers with the Key Lime Sorbet. freeze for at least 2 and up to 24 hours before serving.

Key Lime Sorbet

K
ey limes are very tiny and squeezing enough to make
2 12   |   g r i l l in g

2 cups can be time-consuming. If you prefer, substi-

 grilled biscuit omelets
with Wild Strawberries

W
hen you can’t find wild strawberries out in the 6. Slide the omelets, still on the parchment, onto a cold
fields, you can certainly use whatever berries you table or counter. Immediately cover with a clean cloth and
can find, alone or in combination. Try other fruits as a top- let cool slightly.
ping as well, including peaches, pears, or bananas. Or, try the 7. Preheat a gas grill to high. If you are using a charcoal
Grilled Fruit Salsa on page 195. The biscuit omelet is baked in grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals are glow-
the oven before it goes on the grill. ing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the coals in
makes 8 servings an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
8. Grill the biscuit omelets over direct heat until well marked
B/d cup granulated sugar
on each side but still pliable, about 1 minute per side.
2 large egg yolks
9. Serve the biscuit omelets warm with the Chantilly cream
3 large eggs and berries.
C/d cup cake flour, sifted
1 cup Chantilly cream (see note opposite)
Chantilly Cream
4 cups wild strawberries (or other seasonal berries),
hulled and quartered Chantilly cream gets it name from the region of France where it

was famously served to King Louis xiv. To make a chantilly cream,

1. Preheat oven to 450°F. Trace eight 5-inch circles on sheets whip well-chilled heavy cream until it thickens and add a bit of

of parchment paper and line baking sheets with the paper. sugar (superfine or powdered sugar dissolves most easily). Con-

2. Combine the sugar, egg yolks, and eggs in a double boiler tinue to whip the cream until it is thick enough to spoon or pipe

over barely simmering water and heat, whisking constantly, onto your dessert.

until frothy and warm (95°F to 100°F on an instant-read ther- If you can find cream that is not stabilized and hasn’t been ultra-

mometer). Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. pasteurized, your reward is a slightly stiffer, denser, richer cream.

3. Beat the mixture with a whisk or electric mixer on high

speed until cool, about 10 minutes. Gently fold in the flour.
4. Transfer the mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a ⅜-inch-
wide tip. Pipe the mixture in a spiral onto the parchment

d e s s e rts  |  2 13
paper, completely filling each circle.
5. Bake the biscuit omelets until the center of an omelet
springs back when gently pressed, about 6 minutes.
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F s’mores
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F SF
F F F F F F
’mores are a classic campfire dessert. Although they
are traditionally made by toasting the marshmallows
F F F F F F F F F F F
we’ve used here, or by cutting them into a variety of shapes. The
number of marshmallows you get from this recipe will vary,
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
on a stick over an open fire, you can use your grill. Everyone depending upon how you choose to cut them out. Regardless
has their own technique—and preferences—about toasting of the shape and size you like, remember that any extras can be
marshmallows, so let everyone (except small children) toast packed up and stored in the freezer to enjoy another day. They
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
their own. For a deep golden brown and fewer flames, turn thaw in just a few minutes at room temperature.
the marshmallow slowly over the flame or glowing coals,
Vegetable oil, as needed
and if it starts to cook too quickly in certain spots, move the
F F F F F F F 2 tbsp powdered gelatin
F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
marshmallow a little farther away from the flame.
1 cup cold water
makes 8 servings
1½ cups granulated sugar
Eight 1-oz pieces dark, semisweet, or milk chocolate ½ cup honey
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
16 Graham Cracker Cookies (recipe follows) ½ cup corn syrup
8 Cinnamon Marshmallows (recipe follows) 1½ tsp vanilla extract

F F F F F F F 1½ tsp ground cinnamon

F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
1. If you don’t have a campfire burning, preheat a gas grill
to high. If you are using a charcoal grill, build a fire and let it
burn down until the coals are glowing red with a light coat-
F F F F F F F F
¼ cup cornstarch

F F F F
1. Line a jelly-roll pan with parchment paper and lightly
F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
ing of white ash. grease the parchment paper with the oil. Cut a second piece of
2. Place 1 piece of chocolate on each of 8 graham cracker parchment paper of the same size, oil it lightly, and set aside.
cookies. 2. Sprinkle the gelatin over 1/2 cup of the cold water and
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
3. Place the marshmallows on metal skewers and hold the briefly stir to completely moisten it and break up any clumps.
skewers over the grill until gooey or to the desired doneness. Let the gelatin sit in the cold water until it swells and softens,
4. Top each chocolate-covered graham cracker with a 10 to 15 minutes.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
marshmallow, then top each with one of the remaining gra- 3. Combine the sugar, honey, and corn syrup with the re-
ham cracker cookies. Serve immediately. maining 1/2 cup of water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and stir
to moisten the sugar. Cook over high heat, stirring constantly,
F F F F F F F until the mixture comes to a boil. Immediately stop stirring
F F F F F F
F F F F
Cinnamon Marshmallows
F F F F F F F F F F F
2 14   |   g r il l i n g

and skim the surface to remove any scum that has risen to the
top. Continue to cook over high heat, occasionally brushing

M
F F aking your own marshmallows is a fascinating pro-
F F F F F down the side of the pan using a pastry brush and water, until
F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F
cess. These treats are softer and more flavorful than
the kind you buy at the store, plus you can customize them by
adding your own favorite flavor, like the powdered cinnamon
F F F F F F F F F F F
the mixture registers 242ºF on a candy thermometer.
4. Remove the mixture from the heat and let cool to ap-
proximately 210ºF.
F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
mering water. Stir constantly until the mixture is clear and
F F F F F F
5. Place the gelatin in a heatproof bowl over a pan of sim-
F F
1 cup softened butter
½ cup granulated sugar
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
liquid. Mix the vanilla into the dissolved gelatin. 1 large egg, lightly beaten
6. Mix the gelatin into the cooked sugar mixture and trans- ¾ tsp vanilla extract
fer to a mixing bowl. Stir in the cinnamon. Whip the mixture 2½ cups cake flour
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
with an electric mixer on high speed until medium peaks
½ cup graham cracker crumbs
form, about 8 to 10 minutes.
7. Spread the mixture in the lined pan. Top the mixture with
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
the prepared parchment paper and use a rolling pin to spread 1. Cream together the butter and sugar by hand or with an
the mixture into an even slab. Place in the freezer for at least 8 electric mixer on medium speed, scraping down the bowl pe-
and up to 24 hours before taking the slab out of the pan. riodically, until smooth and light in color, about 5 minutes.
F 8. Gently peel off the paper from 1 side. Lightly dust the
F F F F F 3. Mix in the egg and vanilla, scraping down the bowl and
F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F
marshmallow slab with some of the cornstarch. Flip the slab
over and gently peel off the parchment paper. Dust the sec-
ond side of the marshmallow slab lightly with more of the
F F F F F F F F
blending until smooth.

F
mixing on low speed until just blended.
F F F F F F F
4. Add the flour and graham cracker crumbs all at once,

F F F F
F F F
F
cornstarch.

F F F F
9. Use a 21/2-inch biscuit cutter, dipped into the cornstarch,
to cut rounds, or simply cut into pieces with a sharp knife. If
F F F F F F F F F F
5. Turn the dough onto a floured work surface. Shape it into
a flat disk, wrap tightly, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
6. Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a baking sheet or line with
F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
the cutter or knife begins to stick, dip it in additional corn- parchment paper.
starch or dust the marshmallows lightly with a little more 7. Roll the dough to 1/8-inch thickness. Cut sixteen 3-inch
cornstarch. squares or rounds out of the dough, and place them on the
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
10. Serve the marshmallows now, or store in an airtight cov- prepared baking sheet. (Gather up the scraps and re-roll the
ered container in the freezer for up to 4 months. dough as necessary.) Chill the dough in the refrigerator for 10
minutes before baking.
F F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
8. Bake the graham cracker cookies until golden brown,
Graham Cracker Cookies about 12 to 15 minutes. Let the cookies cool to room tempera-
ture on a wire rack.

G
F F r aham cr ackers were actually introduced in the
F F F F 9. Serve the graham cracker cookies now, or store in an air-
F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
g r il l i n g   |   2 15
nineteenth century as a health food, by a minister and tight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.
nutritional advocate named Sylvester Graham. Crumbs from
F these honey-sweetened, whole-wheat crackers are used as the
F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F makes 16 cookies

F F F
basis for this delicious cookie.

F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F
F F F F F F F F F F FF F F F F F F F F F F F F
F F F F F F F F F F F F F F
 grilled pound cake
with Coffee Ganache

A
ny good-quality pound cake will work in this rec- are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the
ipe, but the cake recipe we give below makes a dense coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
cake that slices neatly and stands up perfectly to the grill. 2. Grill the Pound Cake slices until well marked on both
Adding the ganache and either whipped cream or ice cream sides of each slice and the cake is warmed throughout, about
provides the perfect amount of flavor and moisture for an 3 to 4 minutes on each side.
outstanding dessert from the grill. 3. Serve the grilled cake topped with the Coffee Ganache,
makes 8 servings whipped cream or ice cream, and toasted hazelnuts.

1 Pound Cake, cut into 1-inch-thick slices (recipe follows)

1 cup Coffee Ganache (recipe follows)
1 cup whipped cream or French Vanilla Ice Cream (page 202)
left to right  Cream the butter and sugar together until the mix-
1 cup coarse-chopped toasted hazelnuts ture is light and fluffy. The mixture should be loose but not broken

after the eggs are added; if the mixture looks broken, mix in a little
1. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a flour to bring it back together. Spoon the batter into the pans and tap
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals them slightly to release any air bubbles that may be trapped inside.
2 16   |  g r i l l in g
 Pound Cake 8. Cut the cake into slices and serve, or wrap and store
whole cakes in the freezer for up to 1 month.

I
f you are making your pound cake in a 41/2- or 5-quart
mixer, this quantity of batter fits in the bowl easily, so
you may as well make two cakes! Then you can freeze one to Coffee Ganache
have on hand for later.

Y
makes 2 cakes ou can cut this recipe in half if you prefer, but ga-
nache keeps well in the refrigerator, so we’ve made a
4½ cups cake flour
big batch so you can keep this sauce on hand to use when-
3½ tsp baking powder
ever you like, even if you don’t have the grill on.
¾ tsp salt
makes 3 cups
1½ cups softened butter
1¾ cups granulated sugar 2 tbsp powdered instant espresso

12 eggs, lightly beaten ¼ cup boiling water

1½ cups heavy cream

1. Preheat oven to 350˚F. Prepare two 8-inch loaf pans by 2 tbsp light corn syrup

spraying them lightly with cooking spray or lining them with 2C/d cups finely chopped dark chocolate

parchment paper.
2. Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt together. Set aside. 1. Stir together the instant espresso and boiling water until
3. Cream together the butter and sugar by hand or using smooth. Set aside.
the paddle attachment of an electric mixer until very smooth 2. Combine the cream and the corn syrup in a heavy sauce-
and light, about 3 minutes. Add the eggs in 4 separate addi- pan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Remove the pan
tions, scraping down the bowl between each addition and from the heat and stir in the espresso. Pour the mixture over
mixing until very smooth. the chocolate and let sit, covered, for 2 to 3 minutes. Stir until
4. Stir the flour mixture into the creamed butter mixture the chocolate has completely melted and the sauce is very
by hand or on low speed until the batter is evenly blended. smooth.
Do not overmix. 3. Keep warm until ready to use, or let cool to room tem-
5. Fill the prepared loaf pans 2/3 full (or measure out 2 perature and store in a container with a tight-fitting lid in
pounds of batter into each prepared loaf pan for the most the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Reheat chilled sauce over
even distribution). very low heat on the stovetop or in the microwave until warm
6. Bake until a skewer inserted near the center of a cake enough to pour easily.
comes out clean, about 1 hour.
2 18   |  g r i l l in g

7. Let the cakes cool in the pans for a few minutes, then
transfer to wire racks to cool completely.
 grilled angel food cake
with Fresh Berries

A
ngel food cake, though light and delicate to the bite, 4. Gently fold the sifted dry ingredients into the beaten egg
has enough resilience to go on the grill. The sugar in whites just until evenly blended. Immediately pour the bat-
the cake takes on a deep caramel taste for an intriguing take ter into an ungreased tube cake pan.
on strawberry shortcake. Try flavoring the Chantilly cream 5. Bake until the cake springs back when lightly touched,
with a liqueur or other flavor to add another dimension of 35 to 40 minutes. Allow the cake to completely cool upside
flavor to this dish. down on a cooling rack before removing it from the pan.
makes 12 servings 6. Preheat a gas grill to medium-high. If you are using a
charcoal grill, build a fire and let it burn down until the coals
¾ cup cake flour
are glowing red with a light coating of white ash. Spread the
1 cup granulated sugar
coals in an even bed. Clean the cooking grate.
Pinch salt 7. Cut the cake into 12 wedges. Grill the wedges until well
6 egg whites marked on both sides and warmed through, about 3 to 4 min-
1 tsp vanilla extract utes on each side.
Pinch cream of tartar 8. Serve the grilled cake topped with the Chantilly cream
2 cups Chantilly cream (see page 213) and strawberries.
4 cups strawberries, hulled and halved
Baking Angel Food Cake
1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Sift together the flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the salt. Angel food cake is baked in an ungreased pan so that the batter can

Set aside. cling to the sides as the cake bakes. Then, to protect the fragile struc-

3. Combine the egg whites, vanilla, and cream of tartar in ture of the cake just as it comes from the oven, turn the pan upside

a large bowl and whip with a whisk or beat on medium speed down and set it on top of a wine bottle. Let it cool completely before

using the whip attachment of an electric mixer until frothy. you try to get the cake out of the pan.

Gradually add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar and beat to medium- To release the cake from the pan, run a thin blade around the

stiff peaks. edges of the pan. Work carefully to avoid cutting into the cake.

d e s s e rts  |  2 19
Weight Measures Conversion Temperature Conversion
U.S. and Metric. Values have been rounded. Degrees Farenheit and Celcius.
Values have been rounded.

¼ ounce 8 grams
32°F 0°C
½ ounce 15 grams
40°F 4°C
1 ounce 30 grams
140°F 60°C
4 ounces 115 grams
150°F 65°C
8 ounces (½ pound) 225 grams
160°F 70°C
16 ounces (1 pound) 450 grams
170°F 75°C
32 ounces (2 pounds) 900 grams
212°F 100°C
40 ounces (2¼ pounds) 1 kilogram
275°F 135°C

300°F 150°C

325°F 165°C

350°F 175°C
Volume Measures Conversion
375°F 190°C
U.S. and Metric. Values have been rounded.

400°F 205°C
1 teaspoon 5 milliliters
425°F 220°C
1 tablespoon 15 milliliters

co n ve r s io n
450°F 230°C
1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons) 30 milliliters
475°F 245°C
2 fluid ounces (¼ cup) 60 milliliters
500°F 260°C
8 fluid ounces (1 cup) 240 milliliters

ta b l e s  |  2 29
16 fluid ounces (1 pint) 480 milliliters

32 fluid ounces (1 quart) 950 milliliters

128 fluid ounces (1 gallon) 3.75 liters