The Basics Of Paper Modeling, Page 1 of 2

Tools Needed
1. Knife
2. Steel ruler
3. Scissors
4. Tweezers
5. White glue
6. Empty ballpoint pen
7. Markers or paint
8. Cutting mat
9. Inkjet or laser printer
10. Cardstock or heavy photo paper
11. Patience

Techniques
1. Scoring
Scoring is a technique used to make folding easier by pre-creasing the paper along a fold line. The
most common method of scoring is to lightly drag a knife blade across the fold line, slicing through the
upper layers of the paper. The recommended method is to instead use an empty ballpoint pen or a ball
stylus tool to gently compress the paper along the fold lines. This prevents the appearance of unsightly
naked edges and makes for a much stronger model.

2. Cutting
Cutting may seem to be a glaringly obvious technique, but a few pointers are essential. For the majority
of cutting where paper models are concerned, a sharp knife and a steel ruler are far more precise and
efficient than a pair of scissors. Save the scissors for separating individual parts or groups of parts
from the rest of the sheet.

3. Edging
Edging improves the appearance of paper models considerably by hiding the naked edges of cut parts.
Anything from color markers to soft pencils and various types of paints may be used to edge parts.
However, in most cases, matching the color exactly is less of a concern than simply matching the
contrast. For most purposes, three or four shades of gray from lightest to darkest will more than
suffice.

4. Folding and Gluing

Depending on the thickness of the paper or cardstock used, some parts may be difficult to assemble
with fingers alone. In this situation, a pair of tweezers is worth more than its weight in gold. Tweezers
come in a wide variety of sizes and jaw shapes, and some of the more exotic shapes are fantastically
useful for assembling tiny parts. Tweezers can be used to fold tiny flaps and clamp them in place while
the glue sets, as well as making it much easier to attach small parts to other parts.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 The Basics Of Paper Modeling, Page 2 of 2
Special Notes
1. Gluing Tabs
This model includes integral gluing tabs for joining certain parts together. However, the utility of gluing
tabs decreases proportionally as the thickness of the paper or cardstock increases. Thick cardstock
or paper can be used for printing this model, but it is recommended that you try a test assembly
before committing wholly to assembling a model. If the gluing tabs won't fit or otherwise throw off the
tolerances of the finished test assembly, leave them off the parts entirely and cut your own gluing tabs
out of scrap cardstock.

These separate gluing tabs should overlap both of the parts to be joined, and glued to the unprinted
surface along the joining edges of both parts. This is called “backing”, and a side effect of this is that
parts will fit more or less flush. Backing parts with separate gluing tabs also generally yields better
modeling results, but the integral gluing tabs are retained for the convenience of beginners and those
who prefer to use thinner media for their paper models.

2. Sealing
In most cases, sealing the model with varnish or other form of spray sealant isn't necessary. However,
if you want to add further detail to the model with decals or paint, you may want to seal the model with
several light coats of a waterproof glossy clear sealant first. This will protect the model from a
moderate level of moisture, and the smooth surface will facilitate the application of decals. You can
also apply a final coat of a matte clear sealant to kill the gloss afterwards. Keep in mind that the simple
act of sealing a model does not necessarily render it waterproof, and that any application of waterslide
decals needs to be done with great care.

3. Reinforcing
At times you may need to reinforce large pieces, either to make them heavier or to increase their
strength. To do this, you may wish to glue toothpicks, craft sticks, or other suitable items to the interior
of a model as shown in the picture below.

The craft sticks used in the photo above serve the important purpose of strengthening the long
sections along the sides and bottom of the model. Reinforcing models goes a long way towards
improving their durability and heft as gaming props.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions

Notes and Comments

Maginot is a fairly large scenery set in terms of the physical size of its parts, and is designed to be
completely modular. The basic modular unit for Maginot is a 3 x 3 inch block, several types of which are
included in this set. The example shown above is a 28mm scale, 27 x 27 inch firebase. There are 6 gun
towers, 6 corner gun towers, two short gates, 14 revetment walls for infantry to fire from, 4 concave corner
walls, and a 9 x 9 inch inner structure measuring 4 inches tall. This example shows what you can do at the
most absurd extreme, short of walling off the entire gaming table.

At the other extreme, you could also simply build a small outpost or bunker like the ones shown below.

Whatever type of bunker or fortification you decide to build, Maginot's versatility should serve you well.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions
Outer Ring Corner Gun Tower Superstructure Roof

1. Glue the superstructure wall to the top of

the lower corner section as shown in the Superstructure Wall
image to the right.

2. Glue the turret to the top of the lower corner Turret

section so that the turret is positioned as
shown in the image to the right.

3. Last of all, glue the superstructure roof to Lower wall section

the top of the superstructure wall. At this point
you should choose a weapon to mount on the
turret.

Outer Ring Gun Tower

Superstructure Roof
1. Glue the superstructure wall to the top of
the lower wall section as shown in the image
to the right. Superstructure Wall

2. Glue the turret to the top of the lower wall

section so that the turret is positioned as Turret
shown in the image to the right.

3. Last of all, glue the superstructure roof to

the top of the superstructure wall. At this point Lower wall section
you should choose a weapon to mount on the
turret.

Outer Ring Straight Wall Section

Revetment
Glue the revetment piece to the top of the
lower wall section as shown in the image to
the right.

The purpose of this piece is to give defending

infantry a place to fight from. If your infantry
has a base diameter greater than 1 inch, you Lower wall section
can also simply mount the revetment piece
atop an Inner Ring Building Block Type 4.

Note: This page also contains a tower wall half

for the Tower Block. You will need two of
those wall halves to complete a single Tower
Block.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions
Outer Ring Concave Corner Wall Section Superstructure

Glue the superstructure to the top of the wall

base as shown in the image to the right.

This piece is intended to create corners that

angle outwards rather than inwards, as
opposed to the corner gun towers. You'll find
this piece very useful when building star or
cross-shaped fortifications. Lower wall section

Right Side Gate Structure

Outer Ring Gate Sections

Glue the left side and right side gate

structures to either the short gate section or
the long gate section as shown in the image to
the right. The short gate, once assembled,
has a 3 inch wide footprint. The long gate has
a 6 inch wide footprint.
Left Side Gate Structure
Note that the gate structures are not the same
length as the rest of the outer ring wall
sections, so when you integrate a gate block
into a line of walls you will want to make sure
that the backs of the gate pillars are flush with Gate Section
the backs of the adjacent wall sections.
Tower Wall Half

Tower Block

Glue the tower wall halves to the top of the

tower block as shown in the image to the right.

The completed tower block is intended to be Tower Wall Half

mounted to either the tall or short standalone
bunker towers. The former is recommended
for freestanding towers, while the latter works
Tower Block
well for towers mounted on top of other
blocks. Naturally, you can also simply stick the
tower block directly atop any wall section with
a 3 inch by 3 inch roof footprint.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions
Inner Ring Building Superstructure, Type
1
Superstructure
1. Glue the superstructure to the top of a Type
3 Inner Ring Building Block as shown in the
image to the right.

2. Glue three support pylons to the front of the

Type 3 Inner Ring Building Block as shown in
Lower wall section
the image to the right.

This piece is intended to create a two story tall

structural section. Support Pylons

Inner Ring Building Superstructure, Type

2

1. This superstructure uses the same lower Superstructure

wall section as the Outer Ring Corner Gun
Tower. Glue the superstructure to the top of
the lower wall section.

2. Glue three support pylons to the lower wall

section as shown in the image to the right. Lower wall section

This piece is intended for creating angled

corners on a two story structure.

Support Pylons

Variant Outer Ring Straight Wall Section Remote Turret Adapter

This variant of the straight outer ring wall

section is designed to accept a remote turret
system. The remote turret adapter should be
placed in the center of the roof and butted up
against the revetment itself.

A turret or some other weapon platform can

be glued or otherwise attached to the top of
the remote turret adapter to create a wall
section armed with lighter weapon systems
than the gun towers.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions
Other Pieces

The remaining structural elements are one-piece parts. The remainder of this page and the next page will
catalog these pieces.

Inner Ring Building Block Type 1

Use this piece at ground level when you need a

doorway.

This is a general purpose block intended for

bulking out structures.

Inner Ring Building Block Type 2

Use this piece at ground level to bulk out the

center of a building or bunker.

This is essentially a blank box that can be

used in a wide variety of places where you
don't need doorways.

Inner Ring Building Block Type 3

Use this piece at ground level to bulk out the

straight edges of a building or bunker when
the structure in question is two stories tall.

This piece is intended to be used with Type 1

superstructures.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Instructions
Inner Ring Building Block Type 4

Use this piece at ground level to bulk out the

straight edges of a building or bunker when
the structure in question is one story tall.

This piece can also be used as the lower level

of an outer ring revetment wall when using
infantry miniatures with base diameters
greater than 1 inch.

Tall Standalone Bunker Tower

This piece can be used in two ways: as the

base of a tower in conjunction with the Tower
Block piece, or as a turret bunker.

You can also add a bunker doorway piece to

build a subterranean entrance, or as an
entryway into the tower itself.

Short Standalone Bunker Tower

This piece can be used in two ways: as the

base of a tower in conjunction with the Tower
Block piece, or as a low turret bunker.

If used as a low turret bunker, you can build a

staggered line of tall and low gun turret towers
by lining up the low towers in front of the tall
towers.

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.
 Assembly Notes
Arming Your Fortress

The assumption with this set is that you, as a gamer, are using it to liven up the tabletop while playing a
particular game. Since games vary widely and no two are identical in background and technical details,
offering cardstock versions of every conceivable weapon system from every single game as part of this set
is impossible.

So in order to partially address this issue, Maginot was designed in such a manner that you can graft on
pretty much any weapon system that fits into whatever game you intended to use Maginot with. The gun
towers have a generous flat area on the business end of the turrets, and the remote turret adapters also
have ample surface area on top for whatever large weapon systems you care to install.

However, if you're not picky, we've included a selection of weapons and turrets that you can use to arm your
fortification.
Multipart Weapon Assembly Diagrams 01
03
05
06

02

09 or 10

3D

3A
07

08 04 (Turret ring, laminate 2x

and glue to underside)
3B 2A

Sentry systems built using the

parts prefixed with 1 or 2 may
be mounted as turret weapons
or as standalone platforms as
3E shown below and to the left
3C
2C 2B
1D

1E/1F
4A/5A
1A
4C/5C 6A/6B (These parts are optional
and may be placed anywhere) LEG

Legs and feet may be used to

build 3 or 4 legged mounts as
shown to the right
4D/5D 4B/5B 1B

1C

FOOT

©2003 Christopher Roe. All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use only.