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Poor Mans Rich Food Bundelkhand by Ruchi

The document provides a history of the Bundelkhand region of India from ancient to modern times. It discusses: 1) Bundelkhand was part of several ancient dynasties including the Mauryas and Guptas. Archaeological evidence like the Heliodorus pillar dates back to this period. 2) In medieval times, the region was ruled by dynasties like the Chandelas and Bundelas who contributed to development. 3) The people of Bundelkhand have faced challenges of the harsh climate and terrain but maintained their culture and traditions, including through their cuisine made from local ingredients.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
217 views35 pages

Poor Mans Rich Food Bundelkhand by Ruchi

The document provides a history of the Bundelkhand region of India from ancient to modern times. It discusses: 1) Bundelkhand was part of several ancient dynasties including the Mauryas and Guptas. Archaeological evidence like the Heliodorus pillar dates back to this period. 2) In medieval times, the region was ruled by dynasties like the Chandelas and Bundelas who contributed to development. 3) The people of Bundelkhand have faced challenges of the harsh climate and terrain but maintained their culture and traditions, including through their cuisine made from local ingredients.

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© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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You are on page 1/ 35

Poor Man’s Rich Food

Bundelkhand
By Ruchi Shrivastava/[email protected]
For Archaeobroma

Abstract:

Bundelkhand, an economically backward region hasn’t had it’s say since Independence,
hence gets negated in most of the annals of history.

But if you are willing to scratch the surface you come up with interesting facets that
make you wonder at this foresight.

A lineage of who’s who of ancient history, have left their footprint on this arid land.
Bundelkhand was part of Mauryas, Guptas followed by Kalchuries to Chandelas and
Bundela dynasties.

From Medieval to Modern Bundelkhand, it has been home to many dynasties, and had
the distinction of being home to as many as 35 principalities in Modern era.

In era of Buddha Bundelkhand was known as “मिजझम”, and was on the main route from
Ujjain to Koshambi and Pataliputra. This can be seen in its history dating back to Ashoka,
proof of which lie with marking of Helidorious pillar in Vidisha dating to 113 BCE.

Once part of Vindhya Pradesh, today it stands segregated, on the fringes of Uttar
Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh.

Life has never been easy for its inhabitants. Burdened with extreme climatic conditions
and harsh terrain, its inhabitants have had to wage a constant war for survival.
Government apathy has just added to this neglect.

But the spirit of Bundelkhandi, which is largely obstinate and proud refused to give up,
has made their scarcity seem plenty.

“मउआ मेवा बेर कलेवा गुलक0च बड़ी िमठाई,


इ7नी चीज9 चाहो तो गुड़ान9 करौ सगाई….”

This saying epitomizes Bundelkhand food, “If you want good food in life, get your
offspring engaged in Gondwana.”

The need for survival has made them use the natural resources to its optimum.
In Bundelkhand, the forest bear fruits like Mahua and Kaitha and berries, form the main
stay of their cuisine. Burdened with the possibility of so little, Bundelkhand has adapted
and with ingenuity made that seem into plenty where by each ingredient being made to
create a repertoire of savory and desserts.

This has added to making Bundelkhandi food more culturally rich and vividly different.

My paper encapsulates the life of jan-jivan i.e. life of common man and jan jatik jivan i.e.
tribal and their Food & culture.

Surprisingly, the royal food is not much different here with exception of fancier
ingredients being used in everyday cooking.

Bundelkhand was always isolated from outsiders and therefore it has built its own
strong cultural ties. This comes in form of poems, lok geet and celebratory festival songs,
and probably the only culture which uses expletives as part of wedding songs with food
as part of it.

The cultural aspect of this region has deep rooted connection with its food. This can be
traced in the poems of its most versatile and known poet Issuri.

Using a plethora of proverbs we will look into the lives, land and food of the
Bundelkhandi people, as encapsulated by this saying.

“इत जमुना उत नम?दा,इत चAबल उत टोCस,


छEसाल से लरन कF, रही न काG होCस

Index
1. Bundelkhand
I. Ancient History of Bundelkhand
II. Medieval History of Bundelkhand
III. Modern History of Bundelkhand

2. People of Bundelkhand / Social Structure


I. Royalty
II. Thakurs
III. Commoners and Tribals
IV. Coming of Islam and Christianity

3. Natural Resources of Bundelkhand


I. Rivers (Jungle fruits)
II. Jungles (Fishes for human consumption)

4. Main occupation of People in Bundelkhand


Ø Farming
• Grains grown in Bundelkhand
• Ingredients native to BBK
Ø Jagirdars/ Thakurs/ Landowners

5. Food of People of Bundelkhand


I. Food of Commoners
II. Food of Royals
III. Summer cooking at home, Bari-Papad

6. Festival Food Of Bundelkhand


I. Pangat
II. Food made during Festivals
III. Traditions around Food

7. Food Culture of Bundelkhand


a. Weddings Rituals and Food
b. Wedding Food

8. Food of Bundelkhand
I. Festive snacks
II. Breads of Bundelkhand
III. Desserts
IV. Dals
V. More unique dishes

9. Proverbs on Food

10. Conclusion Rich man’s poor food – how food has been used to its optimum

11. Acknowledgment

Bundelkhand:

Ancient History of Bundelkhand


Medieval History of Bundelkhand
Modern History of Bundelkhand

“इत जमुना उत नम?दा, इत चAबल उत टोCस,


छEसाल से लरन कF, रही न काG होCस

Nestled between Mountains of Vindhyas, this Bundelkhandi proverb defines the valor
and splendor of an arid and dry land of Bundelkhand- “From Jamuna to the Narmada,
From Chambal to Tones, there is no one who can beat Legendary King Chhatrasal.”

A lineage of who’s who of ancient history, have left their footprint on this arid
land. Bundelkhand was part of Mauryas, Guptas in ancient India followed by Kalchuries
to Chandelas and Bundela dynasties in Medieval India.

Bundelkhand from Bird’s eye view:

The core area of Bundelkhand from time immemorial has been Datia, Tikamgarh, Panna,
Chattarpur, Sagar, Jabalpur, Mahoba, Banda, Jhansi and Chitrakoot and today also
counts for important districts of the region.

Life has never been easy in this tough arid land, which has had its share of society
demarcations, which made living for a commoner tough. The man of Bundelkhand had
to wage a constant war with nature and the politics of the region.

History of Bundelkhand holds in its heart various incidents/ tales of the ingenuity of a
common man

Name of Bundelkhand across Era’s:


Ancient Era: “मिजझम”
Medieval era: Vindhyas
Later Bundela: Resulted in Bundelkhand

In Ancient India “मिजझम”, present-day Bundelkhand, was on the main route map to
Ujjain from Kaushambi and Patliputra.

Before Ashoka became King he was given the duty to take care of Central India’s
extension of the Maurya Empire and his court was in Ujjaini, present-day Ujjain.

Anyone coming from Patliputra to Ujjain had to cross Datia and Chanderi; similarly,
anyone going from Ujjain to Kaushambi had to cross Vidisha, then Bhelsa. And the
evidence of the same one can witness at Heliodorus pillar dated back 113 BCE.

Helidorious, a Greek ambassador was part of King Ashoka court and the pillar was
created in his honor.

In the 19th century, it took the might of many Archeologists to prove it to the people of
Vidisha about the history of Heliodorus Pillar vis-a-vis folktale of Kham Baba, worshipped
by local fishermen community.

And like all things in India, Bundelkhand is extremely complicated when it comes to its
culture/ history and food.

Bundelkhand had a huge influence of Buddhism, which lead to the creation of many
Buddhist centers in Bundelkhand- namely in, Datia (Gujra), Tikamgarh (Mohangarh),
Khajuraho (Jatkari).
During multiple excavations at Datia, many stones have been found mentioning
Ashoka’s name, which also gives an indicator that parts of Bundelkhand was under
Maurya rule.

1) Medieval History of Bundelkhand

· How Chandelas and Bundelas arrived in Bundelkhand


· Dilli door nahin hai/ Delhi sultanate
· Mughals and Bundelkhand –Love, and Hate relationship

5th CE to 1200 CE:

6th century onwards east of Bundelkhand had the rise of Kalchuri dynasty, and they
established their capital at Maheshwar (Mahishmati). Kalchuri dynasty gave rise to art
and craft in the region. But their constant tussle with Chandelas over Kalinjar fort made
them weak eventually.

At the same time from Northeastern Bundelkhand, Chandra Brahma Chandela emerged,
from being a worker to gradually owning the land he made Mahoba his capital and this
started the rule of Chandela dynasty in Bundelkhand.

Chandela dynasty flourished and they spent their money on making lakes, small ponds in
the villages, temples, math, and word got to spread that they have the power of
converting iron to gold, just by their touch.

Chandelas contributed immensely in making people’s life comfortable; because of


water, farming improved, people had more food to eat, cattle population grew, because
of temples and cultural centers people’s world view towards life changed, overall
Chandela period is called as the golden period in the history of Bundelkhand.

Prithviraj Chauhan, the ruling king of Ajmer (1178-1193 CE) attacked Bundelkhand and
ended the golden period of Chandelas, this led to coming of many Afghan mercenaries
to Bundelkhand seeking quick money of attacking rich non- guarded lords and Palaces.

Vindhyas:

According to the legend, Bundela Kings trace their lineage to King Lav, son of King Ram.
Descendants of Lav ruled Kashi for many generations, beginning 674 CE to 1048 CE.
Around 1048 Hemkarna, who was called Hemkarna Vindhyela had to run away to
Gahora (Banda) his son moved distance to Mahu-Mahoni and gradually they spread
across Bundelkhand. Hemkarna Vindhyela’s descendants were called Vindhyas which
gradually was changed to Bundelas.

Delhi door nahin hain/ Delhi Sultanate:

Bundelkhand from the beginning has been the tricky spot for Delhi sultanate, because of
its densely populated jungles and Chambal Mountains it was tough for any outsider to
pave the way. During 11th CE Kalinjar fort was the cohesive capital of Bundelkhand under
Chandela rules.

From 1202-03 when Qutubuddin Aibak tried attacking Kalinjar, the fort that spelled the
bounty of Bundelkhand. Over the years rulers from Delhi Sultanate kept attacking
Kalinjar but it was limited to loot and killing. None of the Delhi rulers could establish
clear authority on Kalinjar, neither they could formulate policy around it, which resulted
in chaos for a common man of Bundelkhand who served massive blows year after year
and this halted the growth of the region.

Mughals and Bundelkhand –Friends and Foe

Chanderi, is an important town both for Malwa and Bundelkhand for hundreds of years,
Chanderi was beginning of Malwa region and end of Bundelkhand region geographically
but due to proximity to Lalitpur and Orchha people staying in Chanderi had more
influence of Bundelkhand then Malwa.

Famous 13th-century traveler Ibn Battuta wrote about Chanderi- “A big town, with
massive houses, mosques, and bazaars”.

In 1527 Rana Sangram Singh, known as Rana Sanga, was fighting a battle against Babar.
Medini Rai, then ruler of Chanderi joined Rana Sanga's forces with his 12000 strong
horse warrior army. Unfortunately, Rana Sanga lost the battle and died in 1528.
Babur assumed that he will be given Chanderi, but the mighty Bundeli Medina Rai
wasn’t ready to give up. Babur attacked Chanderi and the women of Chanderi executed
the biggest Johar in the history of Bundelkhand.

Medina Rai’s army was finished and Chanderi went to the Mughals. It was the beginning
of the love and hate relationship rulers of Bundelkhand shared with Mughal emperors.

In fact in Baburnama, the valor and courage of Medini Rai, his army and the Rajputi
women who took their own lives through johar is mentioned. Today, the Chanderi
Palace stands still, silently paying ode to the heroes gone by in annals of History.

Orchha and King Rudra Pratap Bundela:

While Kalinjar was going through various ups and downs, Orchha was being prepared to
be the next capital of Bundelkhand. Surrounded by Betwa River and dense jungles it was
one of the safest havens to run a kingdom, which was initially called Oddachaa. This was
the period when Delhi sultanate was going through turmoil, which had its share of
impact on Bundelkhand also, this time positively.

In 1531, Rudra Pratap Bundela established Orchha and due to Delhi sultanate going
through constant tussle he took advantage of expanding Bundelkhand rule from Kalinjar
to Kalpi. He died in 1531 but his 9 sons and their descendants became the flag bearer of
Bundelkhand.

Meanwhile, Sher Shah Suri had attacked Kalinjar, and on 22nd May 1545, he died in a
blast.

The friendship between Mughals and Bundelkhand (1605-1627):

Veer Singh Dev, Rudra Pratap Singh’s Grandson and Son of Madhukar Shah (1554-1592),
was one of 8 children and hence was given a small parcel of land in Datia. He attacked
many posts of Mughal army, which created uproar, and to save himself he befriended
Akbar’s son Saleem, who had revolted against his father. On Saleem’s order Veer Singh
killed Abul-Fazal on 9th August 1602 since Saleem believed that because of Abul Fazal his
father hated him.

This friendship lasted for a lifetime with Veer Singh being declared the ruler of Orchha
and his elder brother had to satisfy himself with Chanderi.

Veer Singh built a humongous palace for Emperor Jahangir which took 20 years to build
and Jahangir visited Orchha for a night and rested in the Palace. As part of honoring
emperor, King Veer Singh never resided in Jahangir Palace and this giant palace
remained empty forever as a sign of great friendship between two warriors.

Post this, the rulers of Bundelkhand became an ally of Mughals and fought various
battles for them.

Maharaja Chhatrasal and Panna:

Champat Rai, the father of Maharaja Chhatrasal, (4th May 1649) was the grandson of the
first ruler of Orchha. He despised the Mughal administration and attacked many regions
controlled by Mughal rulers.

Chhatrasal at the age of 16 joined Mughal army’s campaign in southern India but he
wasn’t happy and gradually disappeared to meet Maratha king Chhatrapati Shivaji in
1667. Chhatrapati convinced him to fight for an independent Bundelkhand, and young
Chhatrasal followed the path. In few years, he became a nuisance to Mughal army since
Chhatrasal was expert in guerrilla warfare, which Mughal army wasn't used to anymore
and this created lot of trouble for Mughal faujdars both in Malwa and Bundelkhand.

Gradually, he established his rule from Panna and declared it the capital of Bundelkhand
in the land of Gondwana tribals. He gradually managed to capture most of Bundelkhand,
which was under the Mughal rule.

Re-Alliance with Mughals and establishing Peshwa connect in Bundelkhand:

After capturing entire Bundelkhand under his rule Maharaja Chhatrasal did a treaty with
Emperor Aurangzeb in 1706 CE and made Bundelkhand part of Mughal empire. For the
next few years, he fought many campaigns with them along with his sons.

In 1720 Mughal Subedar, Mohammad Bangesh was given the power of Kalpi, Shivpuri
and many places which were part of Bundela empire. Due to his interference, Maharaja
Chhatrasal and Bangesh had constant fights, which led to him seeking help from Bajirao
Peshwa.

As per the treaty, the 3rd part of Bundelkhand was given to Bajirao Peshwa which opens
yet another chapter of different culture and lineage in Bundelkhand.

Food Influence of Peshwas:

But astonishingly the influence of Peshwa’s on common man was minimum and one
doesn’t see any food influence, which prospered in Bundelkhand.

2) People of Bundelkhand / Social Structure

I. Royalty
II. Thakurs
III. Commoners and Tribals
IV. Coming of Islam and Christianity

Bundelkhand, the cluster of land between jungles and river, was always untouched by
outsiders which led to people of the region being extremely simple and non-interfering.
They led a life of simplicity and due to political instability and lack of economic resources
their livelihood depended highly on cattle grazing and farming.

The Royalty:
Bundelkhand being a tough land, even the Royals had to wage a constant war against
outsiders and in- house attackers. Post Chandela’s Bundelkhand went through massive
turmoil and therefore stability and growth were difficult to achieve.

Bundelkhand had also suffered the massive division of power within the region, with 35
principalities.
Only sporadically, Bundelkhand had one powerful entity otherwise they never existed in
unison giving advantage to outsiders, from Delhi Sultanate to Mughals to Britishers.

Thakurs:
Thakurs of Bundelkhand comprise of not more than 15 percent of the population but
after royalty, they hold maximum power and influence in the region. Most of the
Thakurs are descendants of Jagirdars with massive land holding and
descendants/relatives of royalties.

The division of society was extremely brutal in this region. Thakurs would levy heavy
taxes on farmers and once they were unable to return the debt they would become
landless laborers since Thakurs would take away their land with pressure. Also, the
divide as per Hindu Vedic system was very prominent.

People of lower caste were treated as untouchable and their entry to their own village
was separate. They were also not allowed to be part of common festivities and had to
resort to their own community.

People of Bundelkhand (commoners and Tribals):


Common people of Bundelkhand have lived their lives through great hardship and pain.
Over hundreds of years, people of Bundelkhand have been so oppressed that they are
used to of the life of ignorance and self-empathy. Even if they can they don’t really spell
out issues, they have learned to live in minimum, which is showcased in each aspect of
their lives.

Life has never been easy for its inhabitants. Burdened with extreme climatic conditions
and harsh terrain, the inhabitants have had to wage a constant war for survival.
Government apathy has just added to this neglect.

The main occupation of people here is farming, cattle grazing, artisans, toy making,
weavers or laborers.
The economic division between rich and poor was very high which led to a lot of
exploitation of poor by the rich and powerful and the situation hasn’t changed in the
21st century also.

The Gondwana tribals largely remained isolated from the mainland and lived their lives
depending on the thick dense jungles of the region which provided them local food and
grains to survive and medicines. Their rich understanding of jungle herbs and fruits
made them important for common people. During local mandi and haatt, tribals would
come down from dense forests to offer the jungle fruits, berries, and herbs to the locals,
who also worked as medicinal herbs and in return they would buy salt and oil for
cooking. These herbs were prized and used by locals but gradually this culture decreased
with the cutting of trees in name of development and shrinking of jungles, which in
Bundelkhandi language is called Dank. Today, most of them have lost touch with age-old
medication from trees and they are reduced as landless laborers and workers in farms.

Islam at the doorstep of Bundelkhand:

In 1202 AD, Qutub-Uddin Aibak attacked Kalinjer fort. One of the last warriors of
Chandelas Paramardi put a brave front but finally surrendered. Though he died a natural
death, his followers also had to surrender in front of Qutub-Uddin Aibak’s giant
army. He also captured Mahoba and kept the entire territory under Muslim governor’s

rule, this was the beginning of Islam in Bundelkhand. And this act of Delhi Sultanate
bought the mighty Chandela rule of Bundelkhand to a gradual halt.

Then there were many incidences of Mughal army’s attacking the region or be it King
Veer Singh’s friendship with Emperor Jahangir that led to more interaction with Muslim
began in the region. These gradual interactions led to various artisans, weavers, and war
mercenaries thronging to Bundelkhand for opportunity of work.

The biggest influx of weavers happened at Chanderi, and they created one of the most
admirable and unique works of Chanderi sarees and fabrics, even popular today.

Even post the fall of Mughal Empire, the subedars in Bundelkhand stayed back including
their peripheral staff of Hakims/ Yunani medicines specialist etc.

Though in the food you don’t see much of Muslim influence since the population always
remained small and again the food was never an integral highlight of Bundelkhand
existence.

Catholics:
The existence or spread of Christianity has been very minuscule in Bundelkhand. Only
the places were British cantonment was established, we can see old churches and
possibly the reason you will only find very few old bakeries in Bundelkhand, mainly
Nowgong, Jabalpur and Sagar. Over the years missionaries arrived in Bundelkhand but at
a very small level

3) Natural Resources of Bundelkhand

I. Jungles (Jungle fruits)


II. Rivers (Fishes for human consumption)

Jungles of Bundelkhand/Gondwana

The jungles of Bundelkhand were lush green and would bear fruit to feed the army of
tribals and villagers. As per the saying goes,

“मउआ मेवा बेर कलेवा गुलक0च बड़ी िमठाई,


इ7नी चीज9 चाहो तो गुड़ान9 करौ सगाई….”

“Gondwana is full of Mahua, Berries, Mithais and if you want all this get your kid married
in Gondwana.”

People of Bundelkhand, are largely obstinate and proud. They have made their scarcity
seem plenty.
This also reflects the positive side of Bundelkhand- they have little to spare but they are
sure to make most out of what they have and they have actually created a massive
repertoire of their food from little.

People of Bundelkhand have a lot to thank the jungles, which are also referred to as
Dank by them. These massively thick danks have led the generation of Bundelkhand to
survive on the natural abundance of fruits, vegetation and provided them the material
for survival. The jungles of Bundelkhand have trees like Saaj, Saagon, Bamboos, Neem
which help in providing material to make houses and wood fire for cooking.

Variety of fruits/leaves people forage from Jungles and use in day to day lives: Kher,
Tendu, Aam (Mango), Jamun, Kaitha (Woodapple), Ber (Sour Berries), Munga (Drumstick
tree/flowers and fruit), Aawla (Gooseberry), Gond, Honey, Khajur, Mahua, Makora,
Kakora, Gulguj, Surka, Murar, Gijar, Kaserua, Khirini.

Many medicinal plants like Saliya, a red thin wood, are available in the jungle. Saliya is
placed with ajwain in a red cloth and soaked in a mud pot with water. This water is given
post delivery to a woman. It is believed that this water gives strength to the new
mother.

Tendu leaves: Bundelkhand land has abundant tendu trees, leaves are collected by
tribals and rolled into beedi which is then sold to companies or local distributors, this is
regular incomes for many people in the region.

Mahua: Mahua is one of the most important from the Bundelkhand and Gondwana
region. In poverty, many homes have lived using fruits of Mahua. Morning 4 am
onwards the liquid which comes is used in making Mahua liquor. The dried fruit is used
to makes a range of sweets in Bundelkhand including the famous Doobri. The dried fruit
is also fried and consumed since it has an inbuilt sweetness to it. In olden days the
tribals and poor people would make alcohol from Mahua and would be taxed heavily if
caught. Zamindars would buy Mahua alcohol from locals and tribals at petty cost and
consume it without paying any tax. This is yet another example of inequality in
Bundelkhand. Mahua can be called as lifeline and survival kit for the people of the
region. Mahua, the drink, and the by-products are an integral part of Bundelkhand
homes.

Since jungles where thick and dense, they were populated with wild animals and small
animals, earlier tribal would hunt boar, partridges, Quail and jungle fowl for food. Post-
ban on hunting now either domesticated chickens/ goat are killed for consumption.

There have been times due to lack of rains or no availability of any food people had to
kill their domesticated cattle also. It seems an extreme step but this is not new to people
of Bundelkhand. Given the rough climate and dry arid land, there have been years
without rains and have created havoc in the food system of the region.

There are few tribal communities consuming a particular kind of food. Pulind and Shabar
community, they stay in thick jungles and live on honey procured from the jungle and
any available meat, they drink Mahua every day and pan leaves. They also carry sweet
fruits with them and once it's dried in the sun they consume it as post-meal dessert.

Rivers of Bundelkhand & Macchariya:

As the saying goes, “इत जमुना उत नम?दा, इत चAबल उत टोCस,”

Bundelkhand is an arid land but in few part of the regions many rivers have helped in
the main got fertile. Bundelkhand is blessed by many rivers- North by the
Yamuna, western by the Sind, Narmada flows from the boundaries of Sagar, Ken
through Panna and Betwa through Orchaa. But none of these rivers have played an
integral part in the growth of Bundelkhand’s economy. Betwa contributes around 50 %
of water in Bundelkhand and Ken about 25, they both are interstate rivers, originating
in MP and finally merging in UP to join the Yamuna. Sadly, most of the tributaries of
these rivers dry in summer giving tough time to farmers for irrigation of their land.

To make use of these rivers better, organized fish development from Chhatarpur in 1955
started. Eggs of Katla and rohu were acquired from Kolkota and gradually were put into
Ken river, which starts from Ahiraghawan village near Jabalpur and is an integral part of
Chhatarpur economy of irrigation and fishery. Also, fishes like Naraian, Kriyat, Mahaseer,
Sol, Singhara, Pabda and freshwater eel is cultivated in the river. Today Chhatarpur
provides fishes to UP and Rajasthan also for their domestic consumption.

Not much has been written or mentioned in the text regarding the culture of eating fish
but post mid 50’s the fish consumption got added in the cuisine. Today fish with
chickpea flour fry is very popular and few basic fish curries. In Bundelkhand, it is called
“Macchariya”.

4) Main occupation of People in Bundelkhand


I. Farming
II. Grains grown in Bundelkhand
III. Fruits and Vegetables native to Bundelkhand

Around 60% of Bundelkhand’s land is rocky an only 40 % is useful for any kind of
farming. But people here are relentless and since grains cannot come from a factory, it is
plenty of hard work, from tilling farm to sowing and then taking care of the produce.
And everyone needs grain for their existence, nobody can sustain without it. Therefore
farmers grow what they can for their own existence.

Its believed in Bundelkhand that if you have grains to eat, you can also spare some to the
needy and you will become an independent free thinking person.

Northern Bundelkhand has black mud which is usable for farming but southern
Bundelkhand is very rocky so farmers have to make double the effort. In fact, they are
completely depended on rains for the crop.

According to local farmers, the land which is close to a lake or a pond and has soft mud,
long grains grow there better but if its rocky and tough land, then small grains are
grown. Few regions where grains grow well are Jhansi, Tikamgarh, Chhatrapur, Damoh,
Panna, Mahoba, and Jalgaon and the reason being constant rain during monsoon.

Kharif and Rabi:


The word Kharif and Rabi have originated from Persian, Kharif meaning autumn and Rabi
meaning spring. Kharif farming is between July- October, and Rabi farming October-
March. This pattern is followed in Bangladesh and Pakistan apart from India. The Kharif
grains are depended on the monsoon season. This was also known as Katkau. The Kharif
crop is harvested in the month of Karthik (October-November), hence the name Katkau.

Also during Jaishta (summer) farmers work on the land, they add manure and mix it and
they let the land revive since they want to ensure good quality Kharif crop

I. Rice:
Banda’s rice is very popular, and a variety of rice is grown here. Anokhi,
Barela, Doodhi, Gandharv Ajaan, Manki, Dehradun, Kalonji and many
other varieties of rice are popular from Bandha itself. During the rainy
month, around the pond or a water body people grow - Jithau Sathiya
grain, basically grains which grow within the cycle of 60 days.

II. Jowar:
Jowar is another grain, which is grown in plenty in Bundelkhand. There
are three variations of Jowar grown in Bundelkhand: First two variety
i.e. red and white are grown in Aashad (June-July ) and is harvested in
Ashwin ( September-October) month. It is locally called Sadhkar and
Devla. The third variety is called Bhadailu and the cycle is of only 90
days. In the same period, they also grow Arhar and Rajmung

III. Urad and Mung:


Another grain grown in Bundelkhand is Urda and mung. Mung grows
well in the parts which have black mud and Urad grows in a rocky tough
land.

IV. Barai ( Sugarcane):


Farming of Sugarcane is being done from the time of Chandela rulers. It
is said that when Chandela rulers started their rule, they got ponds and
water bodies made. Because of water dripping out of these water
bodies they started growing sugarcane. Gradually, mechanics was
created of removing sugarcane juice using cattle’s (Kolhu) and the
abundant juice was used in making Gud. In fact, Gursarai near Jhansi
became popular after the abundance of Gur making places.

Millets in Bundelkhand

I. Kodo:
a. Kodo is essentially grown in black mud but it also has an ability to grow in
rocky land. That’s why they create small bylines on the farm so water can be
stored post the rain in these small tunnels and land which is must for Kodo
to grow. Before Independence, about 90% of people in Bundelkhand would

consume Kodo. Kodo is largely grown in Hamirpur, Banda, Lalitpur and Jalon
districts of Bundelkhand.

II. Sama/ Mordhan:


These are grown in villages with soft land and also where cow dung is used
as manure. Sama doesn’t grow in hard thick land. Tikamgarh, Chhatarpur,
Lalitpur, and Jhansi are main locations where Sama grows in abundance

III. Lathara:
Also known as Fikar, Fikar is small millet and can be grown in red soil also. In
fact, in Lalitpur region, it grows in abundance and comes under Kharif crop.

IV. Rala/ Rali:


Popularly it is known as foxtail millets. Rala is sown during the rainy season
but it is said that Rala affects coming grain of Rabi crop so it is now not
grown in abundance but more towards southern Bundelkhand

V. Kutki:
Also known as little millet, Kutki needs minimum rains. In fact, after two
showers of rain, millet is grown using moisture of the earth. It is used by the
working class but is now gradually losing its sheen.

VI. Bajra:
Another millet which grows in the region and is only popular with certain
communities in the region and is largely consumed during winters.

VII. Makka /Corn:


Corn grows easily on dry land and that why its one of staples in the region.
Most of the farmers grow it for personal consumption so when there is
nothing corn helps them to sustain.

Native fruits and Vegetables of Bundelkhand

Ø Mahua:
It is believed that Mahua is the life savior of people in the region, be it sever famine
or lack of food Mahua comes handy for people for survival. Since ancient times,
people understood the value of this indigenous tree. You will find Mahua trees in
gardens, around the corners of the road, on the farm and bylanes of the villages. The
Mahua tree takes about 10 to 12 years to reach its prime.

Mahua starts dripping around 4:00 am and the process is completed by late
morning. From the stems of Mahua where it drips small Gulainda, ( fruits) grow and
these flowers have Mahua seeds in it called “Guli” in the local language. Once the
Gulainda is riped its called “Gulgut”, and is also consumed by people.

Mahua is bought and dried under the sun until they turn red. It is then crushed to
remove the “Jilar” they are then kept in small rooms known as “Kuthariyas” to
safeguards it from rains. Mahua is made into multiple consumable dishes for
residents of Bundelkhand. Dry Mahua is roasted to be eaten as snacks; it is also fried

and consumed. Due to the inherent sweetness of Mahua, the dried Mahua taste
divine.

Another delicacy of Mahua is Doobari/ Dubri. Mahua is soaked in water and syrup is
made. Noodles are made using flour and then poached into Mahua syrup.
Additionally, Chironji is added to make it a complete dessert.

Locals would also collect ripened and raw gulainda and remove guli from it i.e.
seeds. These gulis are then taken to the “Kahulu”* to extract the oil. Mahua oil is
used sparingly for cooking or selling, now days very little oil is extracted since very
few trees are actually left.
Also dry Mahua is crushed and mixed with salt is called Khalchun and is eaten as
condiment.
*Kahulu: the mechanism to crush/press ingredients to extract oil or juice and its run
by Cow.

Ø Ber:
Beri’s fruit is called ber in Bundelkhand. It is grown largely everywhere- from farms
to lanes of villages and people’s homes. Ber again is a fruit, which has helped people
survive during famine. In Bundelkhand apart from eating fresh ber, many dishes are
made which help in running of Kitchens. Dried berries are crushed and mix with salt,
it’s called Birchun. Birchun is consumed as it is and even dissolved in water to make
a sour drink. Ber is also boiled sometimes with salt and consumed as a snack.

There is a saying on ber:


Medh Karota Le gayo, Indra Bandh gayo tek
Ber Makora ja kahe, mar na paaye ek

Meaning:
There are no rains, there is no water but if you have Ber and Makora nobody is going
to die.

Ø Jamun:
In ancient India, Rishi and sages have called Bundelkhand as Jammbudweep because
of Jamun being in plenty in this region. There are two varieties of Jamun ie “Kat
Jamun” and “Jamun rai”. Kat Jamun is small in size and they are grown on shrubs
around rivers and big drains. On another hand, Jamun rai are specially planted, their
fruits are bigger and have more pulp in it. Jamun works as a health benefactor for
locals but due to lack of demand in the market, it has remained a domestic plant
without any financial income.

Ø Kela (Banana):
The banana tree is planted near the wells or the water body, common people don’t
grow it since it requires more water. One variety of small bananas called
“Rambandh” is very popular from Bundelkhand.

Ø Achar: Achar Seeds (Buchanania Lanzan ):


Achar is nothing but the fruit from where Chironji or Chairoli is extracted. It is grown
in plenty and also is used for the trading purpose. In all the sweets / Desserts of
Bundelkhand, Chironji plays an important role as a flavoring or garnish. In fact,
Chironji Halwa and Chironji Barfi is a common sight in Bundelkhand.

Ø Aawla/Gooseberry:
It is called Aawla, aura or Aawra in Bundelkhand. The dry land is perfect to grow
Aawla In abundance. The poor villagers of Bundelkhand have taken out various ways
to cook Aawla and make their limitation look abundance. Earlier when it was only
grown in the jungle. People of “Sehariya” tribe would handpick the gooseberries and
will sell in the market. Now farmers and villagers grow it on their land and use it for
household purpose. Sadly, yet Gooseberry doesn’t have commercial value in the
market, which again reflects negatively in the economy of Bundelkhand. At home
people make Auraiya, kadhi made of Aawla. Laddoos are made of Aawla, chutneys
and pickles.

Ø Imli/ Tamarind:
Tamarind trees are in abundance in Bundelkhand, you will see it while passing
across the dry arid land. Also, the red tamarind, popularly known as Jungle jalebi/
sweet tamarind is grown which is used in home kitchens and people consume it raw.
In spite of Tamarind grown in Bundelkhand, it is rarely used as a souring agent in
curries.

Ø Kaitha :
Wood apple, a very prominent tree of heartland India and is an important souring
agent in the kitchens of Bundelkhand including chutneys and pickles.

Ø Karonda/ Lasoda or Labhera:


Both are sour berry, used in making pickles, chutneys and are also consumed raw.
They are a summer delight and relief for the people of central India.

Vegetables:
There are many indigenous vegetables in Bundelkhand, which are consumed by locals
and are not seen in urban areas for consumption. Also, another reason Bundelkhand
doesn't have too many new vegetables since the roadway to reach interiors of the
region is difficult and people can't afford expensive vegetables coming from different
regions of the country so people eat what they grow.

Few of the common vegetables in Bundelkhand but uncommon for people in Urban
regions:
I. Chaurai (Amaranth): Also called Rajgir in the region, both red and green rajgir grows
in the area. In fact, Rajgira laddoos are also very popular both as snacks and fasting
food.

II. Nenua (sponge gourd) Another vegetable very popular in the region.

III. Khatua (Hibiscus sabdariffa L): It is fleshy and used to make chutneys in the region

IV. Poi Bhaji (Basella alba): Also known as Malabar Spinach is extensively used in
everyday cooking including crunchy pakodas.

V. Puwar (Cassia tora L.): Used in everyday cooking as dry vegetable and is grown in
abundance.

VI. Bathua: Earlier they were grown in farms. People started gradually cooking it, using
as stuffing for parathas, Kadhi, and even Bhaji.

VII. Naribhaji: also known as Water Spinach.

VIII. Kachnar (Bauhinia variegata L): The flowers of these are used in making vegetables.

IX. Kaukauna (Commelina benghalensis L): This is another unusual vegetable, which is
very specific to central India, but its usage in regular food is gradually fading away.

X. Mitha Chench (also known as Jute Mallow): The tender leaves are used to make
vegetables for everyday purpose. It grows in abundance in the wild.

XI. Phag ki Bhaji: Only available during Sawan, thus the name is given Phag ki bhaji.

Popular vegetables leaves/flowers

I. Sarson /Mustard Leaves


II. Colocasia leaves
III. Kaddu / Kumda / Pumpkin leaves and flowers
IV. Moringa/Sehjan leaves
V. Mooli/Radish leaves and Radish Pods are consumed in the form of
vegetables
VI. Palash flower is gathered from the tree and is used for cooking.

Vegetables are grown in Vine


Ø Pumpkin
Ø Karela
Ø Singhara
Ø Padora ( also known as spine gourd and Kankrol )

5) Food of People of Bundelkhand


I. Food of Commoners
II. Food of Royals
III. Summer cooking at home, Bari-Papad

Food of people of Bundelkhand

The average household of Bundelkhand


An average meal of resident of Bundelkhand will be Birha ki roti or any two grains mixed
together, largely Jowar and Bajra in winters; wheat and chana in summers, paired with
homemade pickle, chutney, rock salt and onion. At times poor have to survive
consuming Mahua dried fruit, Ber and Sattu. In some regions, people will consume
Millets like Kodo, kutki or sama.

Aristocrats and Royals of Bundelkhand:


Their meals would have a larger spread but the basics remain the same. Everything on
the dining tables of affluent is locally sourced vegetables. Breakfast of rich people of

Bundelkhand would be Doodh jalebi or just plain hot jalebi with laddoos. Day old pooris,
known as “Luchai” in Bundelkhand are consumed with mango pickle in affluent homes.

Dishes:

Royalties:
I. Aate ka Gatte
II. Kadi: Besan ki kadi/ aawla ki kadi/ patla mattha kadi
III. Most of the meat dishes vanished post Hunting ban (typical game meat
dishes- wild boar/ deer/ namak, mirch,dhaniya aur khade garam masala)
IV. Lakdi ke upar sikaa murga

Dessert:
Chawal ki kheer, sabudana ki kheer, rasgulla ( gulabjamun)**

Food preservation / Sun drying in Bundelkhand


Bundelkhand has multiple ingredients, which are sundried and used throughout the year
for consumption.

Kitchen Essentials:

Khalbatta:
Unique 2 piece equipment, tumbler and long pieces made of iron. The ingredients are
put in the tumbler and crushed with the iron batta. Powdered masalas are crushed in
Khalbatta.

Sil batta:
Also known as Cheel batta in Bundelkhand, a stone slab and stone piece is used in
crushing ingredients.

Bijora:
A fried snack made with white sesame and white pumpkin, it is made into discs and
sundried.

Baris:
Urad dal baris and Mug dal baris are very popular in the region; it is seasoned with red
chilies.

Matha Mirchi:
Chilies are soaked in spiced buttermilk for a day and then sundried for next few days and
are stored for the year.

Saunf- Dhaniya:
The combination of sundried fennel and coriander seeds are then toasted on the pan
and crushed using iron sil batta and stored for everyday cooking. This spice mix used to
be made annually during the summer months.

Garam Masala:
All the spices of this standardized Bundelkhandi garam masala are sun-dried and then
using iron Sil batta the spices are crushed to make a homogenous powder which is
stored for the entire year. The spices are Ginger, red chilies, turmeric, coriander seeds,
cumin, and fennel seeds.

Papads:
Bundelkhand’s world of papad is magical. Till date, everyone makes their own papads at
home. There is no concept of buying papads from the market and variety in enormous,
Potato, Urad, Mung, Sabudana, Sabudana-Rice, Rice, Besan.

Dried flowers of various vegetables are consumed through the year.

Pickles:
Pickles are the mainstay of the meal, various pickles which get made are Raw
mango, Chana and mango, Lemon, Lasoda, Karonda, gooseberry, ginger, mango-
garlic, wood apple, Lotus stem- mango and many more.

6) Festival Food Of Bundelkhand


I. Pangat
II. Food made during Festivals
III. Traditions around Food

Pangat:

In Bundelkhand, Pangat translates into a gathering where food is served as a focal point.
In fact, the word Pangat is almost an adjective to food excitement in Bundelkhand and
there are far too many pangat which takes place through the year.

For Religious Katha: Bhagwat Pangat or Satyanarayan Pangat.


Janamdiwas Pangat: Birthday celebration
Lugayan Pangat ( for women): Special women gatherings
Lugaan Pangat (for men): Gathering only for men.
Bade Buddan ki pangat: Gathering of old people
Mundan ki pangat: To celebrate the mundan* of the kid

*Mundan: Giving away of the hair after the child is turned 6 months old, it precisely
takes place from 6 months to 3 years, depending on parents of the child.

Festival Food of Bundelkhand:

Bundelkhand is the land of celebrations, people like to lead simple life so they don’t run
or migrate to the outside world and they have learned the art of minimalism from
ancient times. They have time in hand which resulted in tsunami of festival which takes
place year-round in Bundelkhand. For them, it's not about perfection but celebration
with people they love. On average there are more than 50 festivals, we are listing a few
important ones.

Mandatories for festivals:

Chowk: design on the floor is made using turmeric and wheat flour, and this place is
used now to begin any good work including puja.

Balaooas: The verbal invite to the friends, families, and neighborhood is called a
balaooa, which is done by elders or the young children of the host family.

After the festivity, if someone is unable to come food is sent to their house and for
return gift, people are given some food to take back home, it could be just a fruit,
uncooked grains and affluent people will send sweets but sending food back is taken as
an important part of celebrations.

Festival Food:

Samudi:
Samudi food (kaccha pakka) is made for ppl and return gift is given as laddoos and
batasha. Kaccha aahar like samudi (mix of kaccha and Pakka ahar, which includes kadi,
papad, poori, channa, barra, roti, chawal, meetha etc).

Kalooni:
Kalooni (it means only kaccha khana i.e, kadi, roti, papad, bara, shakkar ghee)
maade,bara, pacchyawar, kadi bhaat, mangora, papad,kacchariya, gorus (roasted or
boiled raw mango served with sugar)boiled , phulka, hingora ,aawariya, gakariya,
gulgula, munsela)

Festivals and Food

Jaware:
This is celebrated during Chetra/Basant Navratra ( 9 days of Durga). Women grow wheat
in mud plates and it is worshipped for nine days along with Goddess Durga and last day
procession is taken across the village with women carrying wheatgrass. This is done as a
sign of prosperity and it ends with food being served to women and girls.

Shitla Aathe:
This is celebrated during Chaitra Krishna Ashtami ie March- April and is called Baseri
aathe or Bassera. This festival falls after Holi and is dedicated to Goddess Shitla who is
known as the protector against children’s diseases like Chickenpox. So a day prior, food
is cooked by women of the house ie Kadhi, pakodi, poori, halwa, rabdi etc are made and
next day it is served to the goddess and everyone is fed cold food. The chulha of the
house is not lit that day.

Cheetipunoo:
This is done at the beginning of the summer month. Laddos are filled in a matka and
then a kid takes sone laddoo and gives it to the mother to consume. And the same
matka is used in summers to fill water, away or just a reason to buy new matkas for the
summer month.

Harayte lena:
Before the work in fields start farmers do puja of the field with locally made jaggery and
Sattu as Bhog.

Barsate:
Bargat / Banyan tree is worshipped by married women. Overnight soaked chickpeas,
wheat seeds are taken and placed near the tree. Also, Bargada is created using Besan –
jaggery and is served as Bhog.

Assadi Devta:
Women make Sawaiya ie “Sawa kilo halwa with poori” and worship goddess Kalka.
Later, they head to the jungles to worship jungle God and Goddess. Women together
cook Gakariya in the jungle and celebrate. It is more like a picnic for women with their
friends.

Rakhi:
(Saun) Samudi roti is made and served.

Harchhat:
Women with sons are only allowed to celebrate this festival. They observe fast for the
lives of their son and consume Milk, Maalai and Butter.

Morrai Chatt:
Moore is the crown worn by the bride and groom during their wedding. On this day
boy’s family goes to immerse Moore in any river body nearby. Bride’s family sends food
to the groom’s family as part of the celebrations. Women from the neighborhood are
called through a balaooaa, they sing songs and they are served pakka khana i.e Pooris,
bari, papad, kadhi, halwa etc.

Mahalakshmi festival:
On this day, the creativity of Bundelkhandi women is reflected. They make intricate
jewelry set for goddess Lakshmi using besan and water dough, later it is deep fried in
ghee. Puas are also made as Bhog for the puja, they are made of wheat flour and jaggery
water.

Dusshera:
Weapons are worshipped during the day of Dussehra. In the evening, guests are greeted
with Pan, Gari-Burada (mix of various mukhawas served with coconut slivers) clove and
cardamom. Feeding pan on this day to the guest is very auspicious.

Isccha naumi:
Aawla / gooseberry is very important in Bundelkhand, it is used as medicine, also used as
everyday cooking ingredients and everyone from rich to the poor can afford gooseberry.
This is a festival to pay ode to a very versatile ingredient. Women from the village
worship awala tree and beneath that they consume one meal with their families.

Surya Puja:
Kheer-Athwai is served on this occasion. Athwai is crisp pooris made out of maida, it
becomes crisp with the addition of a lot of moin. A bowl of rice kheer and Athwai is
served as Bhog to Sun God and later distributed to family members and neighbors.

Holi:
Small cow dung cakes are made and placed into a string which eventually looks like a
garland. Holika is burned using these various garlands and “Kuchaiyas ” are made on the
fire and consumed. Apart from that Gujiyas i.e, a pastry filled with sweet milk cheese
and deep fried and gram flour crisp is made to serve guests.

Budki :
Makar Sankranti is called Budki in Bundelkhand. Apart from sesame laddoos, various
other laddoos are made for Budki celebration. Like Wheat flour laddoo, rice flour
laddoo, maida laddoo, rajgira laddoo. Earlier all the laddoos were made using Jaggery, as
per locals it's only been 30 years since people of Bundelkhand started using sugar
otherwise everything is made using local jaggery.

Traditions around Food:

Bundelkhand traditions are largely around food. In ancient times, the main occupation
was farming or cattle-rearing so all the traditions, which gradually got celebrated, and
evolved over the years have a very strong connect with food.

The day a newborn is exposed to the Sun for the first time, a small well is created of cow
dung and milk is poured into it. Mother of the newborn is gifted, a neckpiece made of
Makhana, Supari and Khopra ie Lotus seed, betel nut and dry coconut respectively. In an
earthenware, jungle herbs are boiled and given to the new mother.

Saunth laddoos are made with dry ginger powder and wheat is used in making Laddos.
Harirra is made of ghee, dry fruits and is cooked in jaggery with poppy seeds is given to
the new mother to provide her energy.

Next day, the new mother is gifted Battasha (Sugar candy), Farra (dumplings made of
rice flour and filled with chana dal) and intricate Sun and Moon made using gram flour.
The sun and moon are also called “Chandrama hai”, affluent people make it using silver
and gold. The newborn is made to wear it to keep away the bad eye.

7) Food Culture of Bundelkhand


Bundelkhand Weddings and Food
Wedding Food

Bundelkhand Weddings and Food:

Weddings in India are closely connected with food. Each ritual is associated with dishes and
without that, the ritual seems incomplete, Bundelkhand is no different.

In this region, wedding rituals would start 10 days prior to the main wedding. There are
about 50 written wedding rituals, which have now been reduced to fit in 2 days but in many
villages, these traditions are still followed religiously and the food is made to fit the
occasion.

Some of the important Food specific rituals of Bundelkhand and food made around it:

1. Lagun:
This is the first ritual of the wedding. It is written by Pandit from the bride’s side of the
family and is taken by the barber to the groom’s house. Lagun goes with sweets, paan,
batashe, 5 varieties of mewa i.e, Almonds, Chironji, Raisins, Makhana, and Cashew apart
from big boondi and besan ke laddoo.

2. Matiano:
Women of the house go to the nearest jungle, make 7 chauks by wheat flour and haldi to
conduct puja of the land. The pot maker (Kumhar) dig the land and remove mud which is
then filled in 7 baskets (daliyas). Mud is bought home and given to kumhar to make vivah
havan kund and cooking utensils for the wedding. The same day women from the
neighborhood come and they do puja of Sil Batta and grind overnight soaked Dals on the sil
battas and “mithoriyas” are made. In return, kharpuri / Kheer Puri and batashas are given to
the women.

3. Madwa:
On the day of mandap Samudi* or Kaccha bhojan is made. Bua of the boy or the girl will take
haldi in her hand and make marks on the clothes of everyone, on their back.

4. Nazar Utarana:
Mother removes nazzar using rai (Mustard) women of the house and neighborhood take
baasi* poori and roti and throw from one side to other on the chaadar which is kept above
the boy’s head.
*(day old)

5. Baraat:
Baraats use to go on bailgadhi* which was decorated and they were stocked with meetha
and Namkeen khurma, laddoos and meethi poori
(*Cart pulled by cows)

6. Milni*:
For Milni, Girl sides welcome groom’s party with buckets and matkas filled with black pepper
mix sherbet called “Mirchwani“. (*Girl’s family welcome the groom and his family and they
meet.)

7. Janwasa*:
Barat is welcomed at Janwasa* with Lucchai and Shakkar Bura.
(*Janwasa where the groom and his family rest before the wedding)

8. Dhan buaai:
After marriage, girl’s brother gives seeds to newly married and they grow it on the farmlands
as a sign of future prosperity

9. Jyonar:
An extremely elaborate wedding feast
During the wedding meal member of the bride’s family will feed the first “bite” to the groom
and at that point of time, any gift can be asked from the groom and he has to adhere to it
after that everyone else starts eating food.
Special food-related “Gallies”/”Abuses” are sung by the bride’s family to the groom and his
family, highlighting their food idiosyncrasies and some funny aspects about them and around
food.

10. Vidaai Meal:


When the groom’s family come for vidaai, the most important meal is served below the
mandap, the bride’s side make the rangoli of wheat flour, kumkum, and turmeric. On the
rangoli, wooden seating arrangements are done. Family pulls all stops in making this feast
memorable since they are giving away their daughter. Food served is Baingan ka bharta
kaddu ki sabzi, channa dal, papad, bijora, matthe wali mirchi, hari bharwa mirchi.

11. Vivah Daliya:


Also known as Tipaare, these big green color daliyas are lined with red cloth, dry turmeric,
rice, and aampallav, tied around the basket which signifies a prayer from bride’s parents
“your life grows happy like mangos and will be sweet and gentle”. These baskets are filled
with multiple dry dishes which are taken by the girl to her new home, like 2 inch thick breads
made of refined flour crusted with dry fruits and deep fried in ghee.
(*Aampallav: Mango leaves are tied on a thread)

12. Laddos:
Boondi, wheat flour, and gram flour. Each laddoo weighing at least 500 gm each
Phairaks /Sindhora-Sindhori: Traditional Gujiyas / Karanji, refined flour pastry filled with
milk cheese filling and deep fried. The minimum weight of each Sindhora-Sindhori is
minimum ½ each.

13. Gakariya* ka Bulaooa:


Women get ghee laden gakariya from their house and feed the bride and the groom.

14. Gauna:
During the bride’s biddai, apart from the food she is also gifted cooking utensils so she can
add to the kitchen of her mother in law.

15. Bride’s rasoi:


The new bride needs to cook one dish for her new family, she either makes Khichdi for the
family or Rice Kheer.

Wedding Meal:

Jyonar:
The elaborate wedding feast is called Jyonar also referred to as Badi pangat or Samuchi*
Pangat in Bundelkhand. This day both Kaccha and Pakka Khana is cooked together.

Samudi :
Samudi is also called “Kaccha bhojan” and is served during all the main festivals and
weddings.

The main highlights of samudi are:

Ø Kalooni: Referred Below


Ø Kadhi: Channa Dal, Gramflour kadhi with any topping of pakoda or vegetables.
Ø Rice: Bhaat
Ø Bari: Sundried dumplings cooked into a gravy.
Ø Barra: Urad dal thick pancakes fried and then soaked in buttermilk made of
fermented mustard
Ø Mangora: Mung dal soaked, crushed and deep fried.

Ø Papad: Variety of papads from rice, mung, urad, and many more varieties.
Ø Kaccharia: Jungle berry which is sundried, it is deep fried and eaten for
consumption.
Ø Maade: Maade is a very thin roti made of refined flour, the dough ball is thrown on
the palm and is shaped thinly by using palms and then it is cooked on a mud tawa.
The edges of roti are thick but the center part is absolutely soft. It is consumed with
Bhura –shakkar and ghee. At times Maade is crushed and eaten as part of kalooni
instead of rice.
Ø Bhura-Shakkar: Various dry fruits crushed, added with coconut and served with
ghee.In fact, it is said that ghee is poured in bura shakkar till people don’t say no.
Ø Goras: also known as pacchiyawar and is made by mixing smooth curd, jaggery, milk,
sugar, and dry fruits.
Ø Luchai: This is wheat poori and if Luchai is served the meal is called “MIRZAPURI”.

Kalooni:
Kalooni is part of Samudi and it is served in various places and is not a dish but an
assortment of many dishes, which is an integral part of Samudi.

1. Ø Rice
2. Ø Bara
3. Ø Mangora
4. Ø Kaccharia
5. Ø Bari made of rice: cooked rice is cooked again in water till it turns into a
6. thick paste, it is sun-dried and kept for use later
7. Ø Bura Shakkar
8. Ø Pacchyawar or Goras
9. Ø Kheechla: Rice, Jowar, and sabudana are crushed, cooked in water with cumin,
salt, and chili powder. It is boiled till the mix becomes like a thick paste and then it is
made into small sheets and dried. It is deep fried before serving.

Common dishes for Kacchi and Pakki Pangat:


Food is served on Pattal (Bowls and plates made of Palash tree) sweets served in Sakora
(Bowls made of Mud)
· Channa Dal
· Rice
· Maade
· Lucchi ( Poori)
· Kachori: spiced lentils stuffed in a wheat pastry and deep fried
· 5 or 7 varieties of mithai
Ø Balushahi
Ø Imarti
Ø Sookhi Boondi
Ø Urad dal pinni
Ø Besan ki barfi

8) Food of Bundelkhand
Festive snacks
Breads of Bundelkhand
Desserts
Dals
Unique dishes

Festive Snacks :

Ø Saloni: Thin crisp strips made of refined flour


Ø Khurma: Mix of fried dry fruits are stuffed into small wheat doughs and fried
Ø Khurmi: Small thin strips of refined flour fried and then coated in sugar syrup.
Ø Khakhad: Refined flour rotis are made using moin and then deep fried
Ø Papadiya: Thin gram flour is rolled out using moin and spices, it is deep fried
Ø Namkeen (sev): In various sizes and flavoring Sev are made, from Hing to Ajwain,
Onions, and garlic based
Ø Sev coated with jaggery: Gram flour sev are made and then cooked in Jaggery syrup
Ø Haldi Jaggery Laddoo
Ø Jaggary Papadi
Ø Sengri Pak: Make small thin strips like sev machine using Singhara dough, and once it is
fried it is coated in Jaggery syrup
Ø Adraini: Refined flour dough and gram flour dough is rolled individually, then its
overlapped on each other and rolled. Small sizes of dough are then cut and rolled into
palm size shape and deep-fried. The spiral of gram flour and refined flour makes it look
pretty and distinctive.
Ø Athwai: Refined flour rolled and fried into a crisp.
Ø Pua: Wheat flour is mixed with jaggery syrup, rolled into a small disk and deeply fried

Breads of Bundelkhand:

Ø Baroola: Gram flour is mixed with spices, shortening and then its rolled like a small roti,
a cone is made and deep fried.
Ø Gakariya/Batti: Gehu and chana with chilka flour are made, and then roti and poori is
prepared, It is also called travek.
Ø Maade: made in maida with lots of moin and dough made with sugar water and rolled
like roti with 1.5-inch thickness and fried in ghee.
Ø Bindai: Roti’s are made with a stuffing of fresh green grams.
Ø Lol Kucchaiya: Refined flour dough is made with sweet milk and dry fruits, the dough is
divided into small balls and rolled in the size of pooris and deep-fried.
Ø Chuni ki Roti: Urad flour, Chana flour, and wheat flour are mixed to make Rotis and
Pooris.
Ø Pua: Wheat flour is mixed with black pepper and dry coconut shreds, the dough is made
using Jaggery water. The dough is rolled into thin pooris and deep-fried.
Ø Thadoola: Urad dal flour, Rice flour, and wheat flour are mixed with few ingredients and
is made into a dough, thick rotis are rolled out and cooked in the pan.

Desserts:

1. Kumda Halwa: Pumpkin Halwa


2. Lauki Halwa

3. Lapsi: Singhara flour is cooked in water and then spread as mithai and is garnished by fresh
coconut.
4. Poori Halwa: Pooris are crushed and soaked in jaggery water, later it is cooked in ghee till it
is done
5. Sooji/Semolina Halwa
6. Raskheer: Rice cooked in Sugarcane juice and garnished with dry fruits
7. Gulgule: A semi thick batter of wheat flour, ghee, and jaggery syrup made, small balls are
poured in hot ghee and deep-fried.
8. Aanse: Wheat flour is mixed with dry fruits, ghee and dough are made with jaggery syrup,
small poor’s are rolled and edges are carved, Aanse are deep fried in ghee.
9. Doobri: Noodles are made of wheat flour and poached in Mahua liquid, dry fruits are added
and served.
10. Lata: Mahua fruit is roasted and crushed, dry coconut, dry fruits are added and crushed
again. It’s of powder consistency and consumed like that.
11. Lapsi: Wheat flour is cooked in ghee, a dry fruit are added and is made into a Halwa.
12. Inderse: Rice is fermented for two days, later mixed with sugar, poppy seeds and deep fried

Dals of Bundelkhand:

Bundelkhand prefers traditional dals and it is reflective of it in their cuisine across various
parts of the region.
o Arhar dal: On Daily basis, it is consumed but you will never see arhar being
made at any religious or festive occasion and it is farmed in Bundelkhand.
o Mung dal: A daily staple for many, mung is simply given tadka of ghee and
clove.
o Chana: Chana dal is a preferred dal during festivities, channa is also grown in
abundant in the region.
o Masoor: The whole masor is cooked in as dal and at times with vegetables.
o Black Urad: Not a very common site, people who stay in bigger towns of
Bundelkhand consume black urad.
o Month: Brown mung like Mehendi (as ref) called matki in Maharashtra.

Kadhi- another world in Bundelkhand:

In Bundelkhand, you can find as many varieties of kadhi as possible. They make kadhi using
besan and buttermilk but the topping of pakodi and addition of various vegetables makes it
unique. Pakodi versions are from simple besan pakodi to onion pakodi, Lauki pakodi etc.
They have a tradition of adding drumsticks in plain kadhi, Urad dal sun-dried badis’, Bathua
and sarson greens during winters and the most unique Kadhi is made with the addition of
gooseberry and at times sundried Bijora. Kadhi will have everything local and seasonally
available in Bundelkhand.

Unique Dishes from Bundelkhand:

Uggdaa: Dry awala is cooked in ghee, with baghar and water, once its cooked and sourness
of awla is reduced, besan mixed in water is put in the awla and then dry powder spices are
added.

Sannata and Barra: Urad Dal is soaked and made into huge barra, at least 6 to 8 inches in
diameter. Mustard paste is added in buttermilk and is kept for fermentation overnight.
Tadka of Hing, Mustard, and red chilies are added in the buttermilk. Deep fried Barra’s are
first soaked in salted water and then immersed in spicy Buttermilk which is called Sannata.

9) Proverbs on Food

1) मHआ मोर9 भुंजे धरे है , लटा धरे है कMट


NयPडी होक साजन कड़ गए, कौन बात कF चूक

This proverb talks about the importance a girl getting news of her lover coming home so she
decided to roast the Mahua and make lata after adding precious dry fruits. Though she
made such special dishes her lover didn’t come home

2) खाबे को मHआ
पैरबे को अमुआ

People of Bundelkhand are happy if they get Mahua to eat and Ammua ie cloths in mango
color to wear.

3) चैते गुर बैसाखे तेल, जेठे मHआ असाड़े बेल


सावन भाजी भादो मही, Wार करेला काितक दही
अघने जीरो पूसे धना, माघे िमYी फागुन चना
इतनी चीज़े खैहौ सभी, मरहौ नई तोह परहो सही

Food eaten as per season is always good for health and the person remain healthy for life.

4) जैसो अंजल खाइये, तैसोई मन होये


जैसो पानी पीिजये, तैसोई वाणी होये

The food you eat decides your thoughts


The water you drink decides your way of speaking

10) Poor man’s Rich Food – Final Conclusion

The successive governments, both in state and at the center may have ignored
Bundelkhand but, hard work of people and ingenuity of women and have led the region
to sustain itself

The region has suffered various hardships but the unflinching spirit of people is that they
have never given up on their art, culture, history and food.

They haven’t questioned the suppression unleashed on them by upper caste, the
Zamindars , ignorance of the government.

Or maybe since they are struggling for everything, they don’t have time to get into
political questioning.

Whatever it may be, but the need of the hour is that they need a cohesive voice, Voice
that paint the true picture of their resilience and the triumph of the region through its
culture food and people.

This is just a humble attempt to initiate that process, hopefully as more and more voices
reach out from the region the very idiom of the title “The poor man’s rich food will
resonate with greater meaning.

11) Acknowledgement:

Bundelkhand is in Cusp of East MP and UP and as mentioned in my paper, it’s been ignored
for centuries but the zesty Bundelkhandi’s residing their have never resigned to their fate
and they have always worked towards living a good life of satisfaction.
I took a 45 day trip in 2018 to understand the History, Food and culture of Bundelkhand
from MP’s perspective.
There are many people who helped me understand the length and breadth of the region and
made me aware of important aspects of Bundelkhand.
A heartfelt thank you to all the Historians, Professors, Libraries, Royalties, Common people
and family who went all out in making me understand Bundelkhand to best of their
knowledge and ability.

Also I would like to extend my gratitude to Prof. Dr. Kurush F Dalal from Mural studies
Department of Mumbai University, it was when he invited me to speak at Archaeobroma,
India’s first Food conference the information and knowledge I gathered took a formal route.
I am notorious in not ever penning down my information, but because of the Food
conference I had to put the information together.
And I hope anyone who wants to indulge in Food and History of Bundelkhand today, they
will have a starter for now in form of this paper.

Last but very important, my family’s inputs helped in demystifying Bundelkhand.


My Husband Sumit, who travelled with me to the remote parts of Bundelkhand and ensured
that I penned down everything about the region and Jagrati Shrivastava for correcting the
paper and making it error free.

Bhopal:
Ø Sapre Sangrahalaya, Bhopal
Ø S.D Guru, EX PRO ( MP Government)

Jabalpur:
Dr. Vandana Gupta,
History Department, Ram Kunwar College, Jabalpur

Panna:
Ø HRH Jeeteshwari Kumari
Ø HRH Maharaja of Panna, Raghvendra Singh
ji
Ø Panditji Prince, Practicing pandit at
Mahamati Prannathji Temple, Panna
Ø Thakuraean, Relative of Panna Royal Family
Ø Rajmani, Panna
Ø Ambika Sir, Educationist, Panna
Ø Khare Sir, Panna

Chhatarpur:
Dr. Bhadaur Singh Parmar
Author and Historian
Professor, Maharaja College, Chhatarpur
Editor, Bundeli Basant

Tikamgarh:
Shri Hari Vishnu Awasthi

Datia:
V. Dr. KBL Panday,
Author, Historian and Expert on Bundelkhand

VI. Dr. Ram Swarup Dhenkula


Author and Subject expert on Bundelkhand

Orccha:
VIII. Amir Khan, Manager
Riverside Orccha Palace Resort

IX. Chef Vimlesh Prajapati


Riverside Orccha Palace Resort

Hatta, Damoh:
II. Dr. Manmohan Panday,
Editor, Bundeli Darshan

III. Shyam Sunder Dubey,


Author

IV. Mrs Sudha Jain,


Nagar Nigam, Hatta

Jhansi:
Dr. Ramnarayan Sharma,
Author, Bundeli Bhasha Shabdkosh

Places Visited for Research:

Rani Durgawati Museum, Jabalpur

Maharaja Chhatrasal Museum,


Dubela, Chhatarpur

Noleshwar Shiv Mandir


Damoh Highway
Nohta

Madhya Pradesh Tribal Museum, Bhopal

Manav Sanghralaya, Bhopal


Jhansi Fort, Jhansi
Rani Jhansi Museum, Jhansi

References:

Ø Bundelkhand by shiv Anurag Pateriya


o Published by Madhya Pradesh Hindi Granth Academy

Ø Bundeli Ithias aur Sanskriti ( Bundeli History and Culture)


Edited by Kapil Sharma
Sub Edited by Ashok Mishra
Chapter 1: Bundelkhand ki Ethihasik Yug Yatra ( History of
Bundelkhand over years ) by Dr. Kashi Prasad Tripathi
Published by: Adivasi Lok Kala Academy
Madhya Pradesh Sanskriti Parishad’s Publication

Ø Bundelkhand ka Samajik – Aarthik Ithihas ( Socio –Economic History of


Bundelkhand) by Dr. Kashiprasad Tripathi

Ø Bundeli Vyanjan ( Bundeli Dishes)


Collection and Editing Dr Bahadur Singh Parmar
Publication: Bundeli Vikas Sansthan, Basari, District Chhatarpur (M.P)

Ø Bundelkhand ki Lok sanskriti ka ithihas

Ø Bundelkhand ka Lok Jeevan ( Everyday Life in Bundelkhand)


By Cultural Department ( Uttar Pradesh)

Ø Chhatarpur Dsitrict Gazetteer - 1980


o Compiled by S.D Guru ( State Editor)
o Commissioned by: State Advisory Board, for the revision of District
Gazetteers
o Departments contributed:
o Directorate of Information and Publicity, MP
o Directorate of Arcaeology and Musuems, MP
o Tempole Survey Projects and Central Circle
o Dr. Ganga Prasad Gupta “ Barsaiyan”

Ø Shri Yaduraj Singh Madhya Pradesh ka Ithihas – Khand 2 ( History of


Madhya Pradesh- Part 2 )
o Edited by Dr. Suresh Mishra
o Chapter 8 Madhyakaleen Bundelkhand till 1731 ( Medivial History of
Bundelkhand ) by Dr. Ramswarup Dhenkula
o Published by Madhya Pradesh Hindi Granth Academy

Ø Some Edible Plants of Bundelkhand Region of India by Ahirwar J.R.


Department of Botany, Govt. P.G. College Niwari, District –Tikamgarh, MP, INDIA

Websites for Reference:

www.Bundelkhand.in

Bibliography/ Referenc: As per paper’s sequence and chronology

Bundelkhand:

Ancient History of Bundelkhand


Medieval History of Bundelkhand
Modern History of Bundelkhand

Book Reference: Bundeli Ithihas aur Sankrit

Chapter: Bundelkhand ki Etihaski Yug Yatra ( Dr Kashi Prasad Tripathi)

Pages: 18-19-21

1) Medieval History of Bundelkhand

· How Chandelas and Bundelas arrived in Bundelkhand


· Dilli door nahin hai/ Delhi sultanate
· Mughals and Bundelkhand –Love, and Hate relationship

Book Reference: Medieval History of Bundelkhand

Pages: 299-300-301-304-307-314-315-320-321

2) People of Bundelkhand / Social Structure

Coming of Islam and Christianity

Book Reference: Medieval History of Bundelkhand

Pages: 297-298

4) Main occupation of People in Bundelkhand


IV. Farming
i. Grains grown in Bundelkhand
ii. Fruits and Vegetables native to Bundelkhand

Book Reference : Socia- Economic History of Bundelkhand


Pages: 132-133-134-135-136-140-212-213-214-215-216-217-218

6) Festival Food Of Bundelkhand


I. Pangat
II. Food made during Festivals
III. Traditions around Food

Book ref : Bundelkhand Ka Lok Jeevan

Pages: 57-59-61-63

7) Food Culture of Bundelkhand


Bundelkhand Weddings and Food
Wedding Food

Book ref : Bundelkhand Ka Lok Jeevan

Pages: 70-71-75-77-78-79-95-96

8) Food of Bundelkhand
Festive snacks
Breads of Bundelkhand

Desserts
Dals
Unique dishes

Book Ref : Bundeli Vyanjan

Pg 9-11-17-21-25-29-35

9) Proverbs on Food

Book Ref: Bundelkhand ki Loksanskriti ka Ithihas

Bhojan –Pey aur Vastrabharan ( Food and Clothing _

217-218

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