Irrigation System for WSF

1. Pond
1.1. Dimensions:

They depend on the use and on the penetration test. It is important to know the level of the compaction
layer. Depending the compaction layer height, decisions can be made about the depth of the pond, as it
should reach the compaction layer. At the same time if it is too shallow, fish cannot be grown, so other
decisions must be taken regarding the use and purpose of the pond.

In order to have fish, a pond should have a certain height usually around 2-2.5 m. Also, a trench should
be built of dimensions of 2/3 m long, 1 m width and 50-60 cm deep, in order to create a protection
space during winter if the water freezes. 1 This can be decided upon. If the depth of the pond is around 3
m, then a trench might not be necessary.

 Provisional dimensions:
Length (L)= 10m

Width (B)=7m

Depth (D)=3m

For a pond with the dimensions measured above, the following must be considered.

Firstly, it is important to look at the shore. A length of 1/1.5 m with the depth of 1 m will be created
from the margins of the pond to the middle, in order to make it possible to work on the shore. This
shore must be consolidated. It will be done so by using wood boards with wire/ braided willow
branches/bamboo, in combination with 1.2. Gleying the walls of the pond.
Figure 1 Braided Willow Branches

Figure 2 Bamboo

The consolidation will be around 30 cm thick. Therefore, the first pond will approximately have the
following dimensions:

Length (L)= 8m

Width (B)=5m

Depth (D)=3m

With these dimensions the pond will be able to hold around 48 m 3 of water.

However, there is a “second pond” created on top of the first one with the dimension of 1m deep, 10 m
long and 7 m wide. This will have a capacity of around 63 m 3 of water.

It is important to mention that the dimensions will be adapted according to the rainwater that can be
harvested from the “buildings” of the field, the amount of water from the buffer zone that will fill the
pond after digging and the water from the trenches which will probably follow its natural course
towards the pond. Another important aspect is the penetration resistance test, which will come with
answers regarding the height of the compaction layer around the pond and the way the water flows.
1.2. Gleying

Traditionally a technique for sealing ponds and dams, there is potential for the process to be adapted for
human-made structures. The Russian-devised version for dams uses a slurry of animal waste (pig
manure) applied over the inner base and walls of the dam in multiple, thin layers, which is then itself
covered with vegetable organic matter such as grass, leaves, waste paper, cardboard, etc. This is all then
given a final layer of soil which is tamped down and the mixture is left for several weeks to allow the
(anaerobic) bacteria to complete their task, at which time the dam is ready for flooding.

Gleys have the potential to revolutionize water storage capacity in regions with highly porous soils. An
aquaculture industry in otherwise unsuitable areas should be one of the benefits of this technique.

Unlike bentonite clay, gley materials are virtually cost-free and are comprised of 'wastes' which would
normally be discarded in the normal course of operations. Also, plastic and rubber dam liners may
actually be dependent on the same anaerobic process for their own continued effectiveness rather than
their lack of holes or punctures ie, it is the anaerobic layer created below them rather than their own
membranous qualities which prevent water seepage in the long term. 2
(a) Prepare the pond bottom (and if necessary, the wet sides of the dikes) by clearing it of all vegetation, sticks, stones,
rocks and the like. Fill all cracks, crevices and holes with well-compacted impervious soil.

(b) Completely cover the cleaned surface with moist animal manure, preferably pig dung, spread in an even layer about 10
cm thick.

(c) Cover the manure well with a layer of vegetal material, preferably broad leaves such as banana leaves. You can also
use dried grass, rice straw, soaked cardboard or paper, etc.

(d) Cover with a layer of soil about 10 cm thick.

(e) Moisten and compact very well.

(f) Wait two to three weeks before slowly filling up the pond with water .

Figure 3 Gleying
1.3. Building
When the water drains from the buffer zone, it is important to check the stability of the shores. If it is
too clayey, the unstable layer should be removed.

The shore should also be stabilized by:

1. using braided willow branches to create stability around the pond

Place them alongside the margins of the pond

2. using wood sticks/bamboo to create stability around the pond

Place wire alongside the wood stick, in order to keep the soil from coming down in the pond

1.4 Expenses
 Excavator
 Wood
 Manure

2. Harvest water from roofs

The pipowagen and the green houses can provide together around 20 m 3 of water per year. Therefore,
the rainwater can be collected and stored in the pond. The gutter system can be bought entirely, or it
can also be built from bamboo.

5. Bring water to the field

Drip Irrigation System

1:https://parkerul.info/cum-sa-ti-faci-un-iaz-in-gradina/
2: https://permies.com/t/80/3409/Gley-technique-sealing-ponds-dams
3:http://www.fao.org/tempref/FI/CDrom/FAO_Training/FAO_Training/General/x6709e/
x6709e03.htm#46a
Se sapa groapa mare. Dupa ce apa s a scurs inauntru se verifica cat mal este si in functie de asta se sapa
lungime (malul trebuie scos)

Trebuie lasat 1.5 m de la mal spre centrul lacului, pentru stabilitate

2,5-3 m

20 tonnes of water per year =>

Groapa centrala ar trebui sa aiba 2-2.5 m.

Adancimea ramane fixa de 3 m. De la mal in jos 1 m ca sa poti lucra malul. De la mal spre interior se lasa
intre 1 m si 1.5 m ca sa poti consolida malul. Pentru iazul present care are in jur de 7m latime 10m
lungime, vor incapea 48 m3 apa numai in centru, in groapa propriu-zisa.

De pe pipowagen si de pe sere, se poate strange in jur 20 m 3 de apa pe an.

Cand incepi sa sapi sis cot malul din iaz si il pune in lateral, apa se va scurge in groapa. In functie de ce s-
a umplut, se calculeaa in lateral malurile.

In momentul cand se sapa si daca groapa propriu-zisa se umple mai este o groapa de 63 m 3 de apa. In
functie de