PTR 6494
PTR 6494
DOI: 10.1002/ptr.6494
REVIEW
K E Y W OR D S
hair care product, key market segments, nail care product, nutricosmetics, skin care product,
regulation
1 | N U T RI C O S M E T I C M A R K E T 2 | N U T R I C O S M ET I C SU P P LE M E N T S
The term “nutricosmetics” defines ingestible natural health pro- Nutritional (food) supplements are concentrated sources of mole-
ducts that enhance the function and appearance of human skin, cules with a nutritional or physiological effect (Piccardi & Manissier,
nails, and hair. They are agents that increase beauty internally with 2009) and contain nutrients (collagen, peptides, proteins, vitamins,
protective or responsive effects that offer beautification and/or carotenes, minerals, and omega‐3 fatty acids) derived from food
personal hygiene benefits. Nutricosmetics market will reach 7.9 bil- products and/or herbal and fruit extracts concentrated in a liquid, pill,
lion in 2025 registering a compounded average growth rate of capsule, powder, or tablet form. They are widely available in the mar-
5.0 % in the forecasted period (Global Industry Analysts, 2017). ket and are mostly sold as over‐the‐counter products.
Europe is the largest investor in the market, followed by
Asia‐Pacific and North America. Asia‐Pacific is the fastest growing
region in the market. This positive trend is due to consumers'
alertness regarding esthetic demand, skin aging, and wrinkle forma- 3 | N U T R I C O S M ET I C F O O D A N D
tion. Nutricosmetics are consumed orally by supplements or by food BEVERAGES
fortification in liquid and solid forms. Generally, antiaging and skin
care nutricosmetics are produced as pills, whereas the ones that Nutricosmetic food and beverages are functional foods in which
concern skin care and body health are proposed in liquid form. The some molecules with medical or beauty benefits have been added.
major target of nutricosmetics is the skin care products market. Snack bars, bakery products, and confectioneries are fortified foods
The stringent regulations are the major restraint in the global used by the beauty nutricosmetic industry to ameliorate skin, nails,
nutricosmetics market. and hair beauty appearance. Fortified beverages such as fortified
Phytotherapy Research. 2019;1–10. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/ptr © 2019 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. 1
2 DINI AND LANERI
water, herbal tea, fortified coffee, and fruit and vegetable juices help cytokines to promote wound healing (Huang, Wang, Yang, Chou, &
the natural skin hydration. Fang, 2018).
5.6.1 | Carotenoids
5.5.1 | Vitamin E
Carotenoids are tetraterpenoid natural pigments present in fruits
Vitamin E (Figure 4) is a liposoluble vitamin with antioxidant properties and vegetable, as well as in algae and some bacteria, that protect
because of its ability to quench singlet oxygen of reactive oxygen against excessive light. Cryptoxanthin, lutein, zeaxanthin, and lyco-
species (ROS), to inactive lipid peroxide‐free radical production and pene are the most common dietary carotenoids (Ross, Caballero,
inhibit their chain reactions that damage the cells. Vitamin E deficiency Cousins, Tucker, & Ziegler, 2012). A diet high in fruit and vegetables
makes premature skin aging, keratoses difficulty in wound healing, enhances the carotenoid concentration in human skin, but it can be
irritability, reduced fertility, and ability to concentrate. (Vollmer, West, decreased by UV radiation, alcohol, and smoking. (Lademann, Meinke,
& Lephart, 2018). Sterry, & Darvin, 2011). Carotenoids are used in nutricosmetic for skin
4 DINI AND LANERI
FIGURE 5 Secondary metabolites Horsetail (Figure 7) extracts are a source of potassium, flavonoids, and
silicon with antibacterial, have remineralizing and regenerating pro-
perties, and are very advantageous to the epidermis, hair, and nail
photoprotection against UV radiation. The combined oral and beauty. Silicon levels influence collagen biosynthesis, reinforce the
topical application of carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin showed more blood vessel walls, reduce their permeability, and accelerate the
pronounces cutaneous hydration compared with isolated treat- wound healing process. In senile age, nail and hair brittleness and fun-
ments (Palombo et al., 2007). The combined consumption of Skin‐ gal and bacterial infections predisposition are due to low silicon levels
ProbioticTM (probiotic) and carotenoids for 6 weeks decreases (Szyszkowska et al., 2014).
UV‐induced skin damage presupplementation with a moderate
dose of β‐carotene before and during sun exposure and protects
against sunburn by decreasing significantly erythema and increasing
Langerhans cells.
5.6.2 | Astaxanthin
Aloe gel supplementation improves collagen production and reduces Polypodium leucotomos (Figure 12) is a tropical plant related to the
collagen‐degrading MMP‐1 gene expression, enhancing wrinkles and Phlebodium genus that is found in Central and South America. It
elasticity in photoaged human skin, with no dose‐response relationship contains polyphenolic compounds (benzoic acid, cinnamic acid,
(Cho et al., 2009). Aloe sterol ingestion contributes to collagen and HA caffeic acid, and ferulic acid), monosaccharides, coumaric acid, quinic
production in human dermal fibroblasts ameliorating skin moisture, acid, shikimic acid, malic acid, glucuronic, and vanillic acid. Polypodium
trans‐epidermal water loss and, skin elasticity (Tanaka et al., 2016). leucotomos extracts supplementation decreases UV‐induced inflamma-
tory responses and UV‐mediated oxidative DNA mutations. Moreover,
5.7.4 | Pine bark (Pinus pinaster; Figure 9) oral intake accelerates removal of UV‐induced photoproducts and has
significant implications in the prevention of skin cancer (El‐Haj &
Pine bark extract supplements contain mainly flavonoids (catechins and Goldstein, 2015).
procyanidins) and phenolic acids (caffeic, ferulic, and p‐hydroxybenzoic
acids) and are able to have photoprotective effect and to increase the 5.8 | Probiotics and prebiotics
hydration and the elasticity of the skin. Their biological effects are
related to the increase of HA synthase, to the RNA expression, and to Lactococcus lactis strain supplementation improves hair follicles
gene expression involved in collagen de novo synthesis (Pérez‐Sánchez, and skin elasticity and hydration. Lactobacillus reuteri, Lactobacillus
Barrajón‐Catalán, Herranz‐López, & Micol, 2018). rhamnosus, Lactococcus lactis, and Streptococcus thermophilus supple-
mentation enhances melanin formation and minimize trans‐epidermal
5.7.5 Citrus paradisi and Rosmarinus officinalis
| water losses. Galacto‐oligosaccharides (prebiotics) supplementation
extracts increases skin hydration and cathepsin‐L‐like activity (indicator of
keratinocyte differentiation and a marker of skin barrier function;
Citrus extract, obtained from the immature grapefruits of Citrus paradisi, Lolou & Panayiotidis, 2019).
contains naringenin and rosemary extract (Rosmarinus officinalis), is rich
5.9 | Mushrooms
FIGURE 9 Pine bark (Pinus pinaster) [Colour figure can be viewed at Skin beauty is a multifactorial phenomenon principally determined by
wileyonlinelibrary.com] alterations of the concentration and the function of HA, collagen,
6 DINI AND LANERI
and elastin fibers. Color, texture, and elasticity of the skin depend on by UV radiation, chemical oxidants, ozone, air pollutants, cigarette,
intrinsic aging due to nutritional status, on physiological factors that and microorganisms (Indo et al., 2015) able to decrease cell‐mediated
reduce the elastic fibers amount and on some extrinsic aging (photo- immunity, to increase matrix metalloproteinases (extracellular matrix
aging), which determine abnormal elastic fibers accumulation in the enzymes able to degrade collagen and elastin fibers), and to decrease
papillary dermis (Lee, Oh, & Chung, 2016; Pérez‐Sánchez et al., transforming growth factor beta, a multifunctional cytokine able to
2018). The extrinsic aging factors actions are due to ROS generated stimulate the fibroblasts in the dermis and to synthesize several
DINI AND LANERI 7
Composition Activity
proteins such as the collagen (El‐Domyati et al., 2014), the elastin, the
fibulin‐5, and proteoglycans. The collagen gives strength and flexibility Primrose oil, Vitamin E, and wheat Antioxidant
to the skin (Varani et al., 2006); the elastin and the fibulin‐5 seed extract
(Schiemann, Blobe, Kalume, Pandey, & Lodish, 2002) are important Coriander seed oil containing Antioxidant, prevent water loss,
linalool, γ‐terpinene, α‐pinene, repair lipid layers, and restore
for elastogenesis and HA producing (Ellis & Schor, 1996), whereas
p‐cymene, camphor, geranyl barrier functions.
the proteoglycans determines water retention and electrolyte acetate, and petroselinic acid
control (Westergren‐Thorsson, Schmidtchen, Särnstrand, Fransson, &
Linoleic acid, alpha‐linolenic acid, They are constituents of ceramides
Malmström, 1992). Furthermore, skin administration of antioxidants eicosapentaenoic acid, and sphingolipids present in the
is important to decrease skin aging and to protect the skin against docosahexaenoic acid stratum corneum able to avoid
harmful‐free radicals. The ROS are rapidly neutralized by chemical‐ moisture loss. Moreover, they
prevent the development of skin
free radical scavengers (Vitamins C and E and β‐carotene) and
cancer, increase skin barrier
enzymatic‐free radical scavengers (Se‐dependent gluthathione peroxi- function, decrease pruritus
dases, Cu/Zn‐superoxide dismutase, Mn‐superoxide dismutase, and elicited by dermatitis, prevent
catalase, Table 1; Steenvoorden & van Henegouwen, 1997; Thiele, UV‐induced inflammation and
hyperpigmentation, and speed
Dreher, & Packer, 2000).
up skin wound healing.
Other factors that can cause skin damage are the pollution and the
Polysaccharides (such as chitosan They prevent water loss from the
dehydration. Air pollution includes various particulate matters such as
and derivatives) skin.
nitrates, sulfates, tobacco smoke, smog, soot, house dust mite aller-
Policosanol derived from It hydrates the skin and beneficially
gens, pollen, the exhaust gas from traffic or hood, and so on, which sugarcane wax modulate sebum levels.
can be absorbed by the skin, causing local toxicity and systemic toxic-
Hyaluronic acid and collagen They increase skin firmness and
ity in other organs (Peden & Reed, 2010). The severity of these toxic- integrity, smooth out fine lines
ities depends on the age and the medical history of skin diseases. and wrinkles, and improve hair
Pollution contributes to inflammatory skin diseases (atopic dermatitis, strength and nail growth.
psoriasis, and acne), skin aging, androgenetic alopecia, skin cancer Low molecular weight glycans (e.i., It prevents water loss from the
(Guarnieri & Balmes, 2014; Song et al., 2011; Tsuji et al., 2011; Yang tamarind seed polysaccharides) skin.
et al., 2014), induces the formation of pigmented spots, the generation Diffuporine (INCI name: acetyl This peptide is able to activate the
hexapeptide‐37) human AQP3 promoter and to
of ROS, and the production of pro‐inflammatory cytokines (Kwack,
induce its protein transcription:
Ahn, Kim, Kim & Sung, 2012). Moreover, air pollutants are a high‐risk
This increases the water flux to
factor for malignant melanoma (Trueb, 2003). Concerning skin hy- the corneum stratum and
dration, it is critical to maintain skin tone and integrity. Water loss is promotes Type I collagen
regulated by the presence of natural hygroscopic agents such as aqua- synthesis and keratinocytes
proliferation that provide skin
porins, a family of small integral membrane proteins that facilitates
resiliency, strength,
compactness, and firmness,
giving an immediate and long‐
TABLE 1 Antioxidants classification (Cornelli, 2009)
lasting hydrating effect.
Class Types Action Coconut water, rich in nutrients It supports hydration and preserve
such as amino acids (arginine) skin elasticity.
Membrane or Vitamins A and E They act on collagen fibers,
lipophilic and β‐carotene elastin, and cellular Shea butter, cocoa butter, and It supports skin texture and
antioxidants structures. coconut oil derivatives hydration.
8 DINI AND LANERI
6.2 | Hair care Cho, S., Lee, S., Lee, M. J., Lee, D. H., Won, C. H., Kim, S. M., & Chung, J. H.
(2009). Dietary Aloe vera supplementation improves facial wrinkles and
elasticity and it increases the type I procollagen gene expression in
Human hair is composed by cuticle (dense outer protective layers),
human skin in vivo. Annuals in Dermatology, 21(1), 6–11. https://doi.
cortex (enclosed in the cuticle contains fibrous proteins and melano- org/10.5021/ad.2009.21.1.6
cytes that produce the pigment responsible for hair color), the Cornelli, U. (2009). Antioxidant use in nutraceuticals, USA. Clinics in Derma-
medulla (near or at the center of the hair shaft and intercellular tology, 27(2), 175–194. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clindermatol.2008.
cement, which glues or binds the cells together and provides the main 01.010
pathway for diffusion into the hair fibers. Systemic hair care restores Costa, A. (2012). Tratado Internacional de Cosmecêuticos (primeira ed.). Rio
damaged hair and improves hair volume and growth. Essential nutri- de Janeiro: Guanabara Koogan.
ents and oxygen are transported into capillaries around the base of El‐Domyati, M., El‐Ammawi, T. S., Medhat, W., Moawad, O., Mahoney, M.
G., & Uitto, J. (2014). Expression of transforming growth factor‐beta
the bulb. Zinc, selenium, copper, molybdenum, and manganese have
after different non‐invasive facial rejuvenation modalities. Journal of
a good nutritional effect on hair. Pills containing iron, Vitamins B, D, Dermatology, 54(4), 396–404.
C, and E, proteins, and omega‐3 fatty acids are proposed to prevent El‐Haj, N., & Goldstein, N. (2015). Sun protection in a pill: the
brittleness and hair loss. photoprotective properties of Polypodium leucotomos extract. Interna-
tional Journal of Dermatology, 54, 362–366. https://doi.org/10.1111/
ijd.12611
6.3 | Nail care
Ellis, I. R., & Schor, S. L. (1996). Differential effects of TGF‐beta1 on
hyaluronan synthesis by fetal and adult skin fibroblasts: Implications
The nail plate is obtained by nail matrix keratinocytes proliferation for cell migration and wound healing. Experimental Cell Research,
and differentiation. Keratogenic nutricosmeceutics containing copper, 228(2), 326–33.14. https://doi.org/10.1006/excr.1996.0332
molybdenum, and manganese can be used to strengthen and restore Global industry analysts (2017) Nutricosmetics Market (Product type—
fingernails and toenails. Pills containing biotin are projected to Supplements (tablet, capsule, powder, and liquid) and beauty
improve the health of the nail. Supplements containing zinc, selenium, beverages/drinks; primary function—Skin care (sun care, anti‐ageing,
radiance and glow, and anti acne/pimple), hair and nail care, weight
Vitamin C, cysteine, and folic acid are proposed to ameliorate nail
management, and multifunctional; distribution channel—Modern trade,
growth. health and beauty stores, specialty stores, pharmacy stores, and e‐
commerce)—Global industry analysis, size, share, growth, trends and
forecast 2017–2025 XPLREP1863|Published On:June, 2017|No. of
7 | C O N CL U S I O N Pages:333|Category: Retail|Publisher:Transparency Market Research.
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Global nutricosmetic ingredient markets are viewing a robust growth hyaluronan solution improves skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, elastic-
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