GarTech 111 (Garment Construction 1)

Lesson 3. Hand Stitches

Dr. Maria Esther F. Medalla
Associate Professor 4

1
Hand Stitches

Dressmakers and Tailors used hand stitches to assemble different types

of garments for this reasons:

1. It enables them to sew on the right side of the garment for adding
designs

2. It provides easy access on areas that a sewing machine can never

reach, such as small corners of designed pockets, fabric overlays, and
much more.

3. It is also better to work using hand stitches for very thin fabrics
because it does not leave marks on the seams like the sewing machine
and it is always easy to take out seams without ruining the fabric.
Hand Stitches

Types of hand stitches

1. Temporary stitches (basting)

2. Permanent stitches (Hemming)

3. Decorative stitches (Embroidery)

 Techniques used to start hand stitching

1. European knot. It is done by

making a knot using your pointing
finger, taking the end of thread and
making 2 or 3 loops around the
finger. Then using your thumb, twirl
it in the pointing finger itself so that
the loop mix up. And ease the https://sewguide.com/sewing-thread-knot/

loops out of the finger and then pull

the thread to tighten the knot.
Techniques used to start hand stitching

2. Backstich anchor—is another technique of securing

stitch, it is used in high couture sewing to hide the knot at
the start of making hand stitches
Backstitch Anchor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tp5Kv7q1ZyI
 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES
Types of Basting:
1. Uneven basting. Is a combination of long stitch (3/8 “to
½”) and short stitches (1/16” to 1/8”). It is used for control
during the permanent stitching of the garment and for
marking. This stitch is used to temporary hold for hems
and ease

http://www.stitchpiecenpurl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/Uneven-Basting-Stitch.jpg
 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES

Types of Basting:
2. Even basting. It is a series of stitch with the same length on right
and wrong sides. Stitches are useful to hold seams together where
there may be strains, where one side is slightly eased to the other,
and where the edges are curved. Ii is also used in easing the fabric
to match the length of another layer of fabric and for gathering

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 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES

Types of Basting:
3. Lap Basting. This temporary stitch is best applied for
bias cut fabric that easily stretches. It keeps the fabric
from stretching during garment construction.
 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES

Types of Basting:
4. Slip Basting. The stitch is used for matching of plaids and
prints while constructing a garment. It is also a used to
baste curved sections, draped garment on a form, and
baste fitting adjustments. It is best sewn from left to right

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 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES

Types of Basting:
5. Plain-stitch basting. Is commonly used to hold facing
flat to the garment after it has been sewn. This stitch is
made from left to right.
 TEMPORARY HAND STITCHES

Types of Basting:
6. Diagonal Basting. It is used to hold fabric layers together
during garment construction, very often in suit tailoring and
couture garments to hold down interfacing. This stitch can be
made along the horizontal and vertical edges of the garment.

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PERMANENT HAND STITCHES
Permanent stitches are used to sew garments together and are used to
stay, unlike basting which are usually pulled or cut out as soon as the
garment is done. These stitches are also used to finish hems which are
located on the edges every garment such as sleeve, blouse, pants and
skirt hemline. It is also used to sew tucks and pleats as well as appliqué
and decorative stitches.

Slightly curved edges of sleeves, jackets and skirts are usually finished
by hemming. Hems are used more than any other edge finish because
they are flat and easiest of the edge finishes and categorized as one of
the permanent stitches. Hems are made by folding an edge of cloth
back and fastening it in place, either by hand or by machine. However,
only straight and outward-curving edges can be hemmed
successfully. Inward curves and corners cannot generally be
hemmed. For instance, you can’t hem a curved neckline.
 CHARACTERISTICS OF GOOD HEMMING STITCH

a. There should be bulky areas or diagonal

wrinkles
b. Stitches on the right side of the hemline
should not be visible or it should not leave an
imprint of hem on the right side of the
garment.
c. The fullness in hems should be shrunk out or
evenly distributed
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH

1. Slip Stitch. This permanent stitch is used to join two

pieces together to slip basting. This stitch is durable so it
is also used as a hem in the garment
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH

2. Self—bound edge. This stitch is used to neatly finish the

inside seam allowance without overedging/serging the
raw edge of the fabric
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH
3. Backstitch. Is the strongest permanent hand stitch
similar to the machine stitching in the right side of the
stitch. There are two kinds of backstitches. (1) Full
backstitch which looks like sewing machine straight stitch,
and (2) half backstitch

http://www.sccmag.com/wp-content/
uploads/2013/02/backstitch.jpg
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH
4. Catch Stitch. Is used both for hems and for folding a
facing against the front section. This stitch also allows for
the stretch in knit fabrics and bias cut fabrics, though it
must be tight to allow the stretch effect. It can also be
used to attach two parallel pieces of fabric together

https://sewguide.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/easy-hand-stitches.jpg
https://tse3.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.JCT9Gd-
cIz2UcPi5JJTrZgHaFj&pid=Api&P=0&w=260&h=196
KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH

5. Stabstitch. Is used when sewing pockets,

buttonholes, zippers, and shoulder pads. You sew
this from right side of the fabric

http://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/tinyimages/483/
Stab_stitch.jpg
KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH

6. Blanket Stitch. It is used to finish an edge with

decorative look, or cover hooks and eyes or chains

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8iAWZfrlRwRhGsTHAlfs6AHaEs&pid=Api&P=0&w=283&h=180
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH
7. Overcasting Stitch. This stitch is used for finishing raw edge to
prevent raveling of the fabric. In a way it is just like a serge seam
done by hand. The seam starts as a whip stitch, going one way to
the end of the seam. If the fabric you are using ravel badly, then
come back in the opposite direction, forming small X shapes at the
end of the fabric

https://americanfeltandcraft.files.wordpress.com/
2011/12/stitchdiagram_overcast.png
 KINDS OF PERMANENT/HEMMING STITCH

8. Whipstitch this stitch is used for seaming and hemming, not to

finish raw edge. It is commonly used when sewing selvage pieces
together, adding lace inserts or appliqué inserts, and joining folded
ends together when sewing ties and bands. This seam can be
sewn either with right sides together or with wrong sides together

https://i.pinimg.com/originals/80/7a/
16/807a16d26ff6016652be04d3e6da079f.jpg
1. SLIP STITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jlHyqT4K-p0
2. SELF-BOUND EDGE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_jHLmUbhrI
3. BACK STITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZ_wVC84UmM
4. CATCH STITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OEmpMoEFrjM
5. BLANKET STITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Im7QKTd1zLY
7. OVERCAST STITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXemoOFN04o
8. WHIPSTITCH

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EAykcosWod4
Things to Do: Midterm Project

For basting stitches

1. Cut rectangular fabric measuring 4” by
7” (landscape) two pieces of fabric each basting.
The seam allowance is 1/2”
2. There are 6 types of basting stitches, cut 12 pieces
of 4” by 7” sizes. remember to use contrast
(different colour of thread from your material
Things to Do: Midterm Project
For Permanent/Hemming stitches:
1. Cut rectangular fabric measuring 6” by
7” (landscape) for 1) slip stitch, 2) back stitch, 3)
catch stitch, 4) stab stitch

2. Cut rectangular fabric measuring 4” by

7” (landscape) for 1)self bound stitch, 2) blanket
stitch, 3) overcasting stitch, 4) whipstitch
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