SINGLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE

Make sure single lock stitch machine is plugged in, the foot pedal is plugged in
properly and the needle is inserted properly.

Make sure machine is threaded properly and the bobbin thread is pulled up to
the top. If your machine is not threaded or you want to double check the
threading, see this post on threading a sewing machine.

We want to check and double check the thread because when there is an issue with
a sewing machine, it is usually a thread path problem. Thread path issues are the
easiest to check and where you should start if you are having problems.

Prepare to use the sewing machine

Prepare the fabric if needed by ironing it flat. It is good to get in the habit of ironing
your fabric; you’ll end up with straighter seams which look more pro!

Use two layers of fabric to imitate seams and other realistic situations in sewing. This
means two single layers lay together. Pin the fabric edges together if they don’t
naturally want to stay together.

Make sure machine is plugged in

and on

Place foot pedal, flat on floor

If you have the option to control the

speed, set it to low to begin.

Feed dogs should be up. If you

don’t know where it is, look at the
area around the needle, are there
little metal zig-zaggy things moving
up and down if you turn the hand
wheel toward you? Make sure no
fingers are in the way of the needle.
How to use the sewing machine

Place stitch control on straight

stitch if it isn’t already there.
Usually this is indicated as a
dotted, straight line on the
machine. If you can control the
stitch length, put it at 3mm and
stitch width 0, or on machines
with a simple dial, use a
‘medium’ stitch length .

Sit up straight comfortably in

front of the machine. Make sure
you can see the machine bed
and the needle.

Lift presser foot, lever is most

easily accessed with the right hand. Lever is usually straight behind or to the back
and right of the needle. Lift the lever so it lifts the presser foot, it will click into place
when it is all the way up.

The needle should

also be in its highest
position so we can
slide the fabric in
without snagging it or
your finger. If you have
a needle up button,
press it. If you do not
have a needle up
button, turn the hand
wheel towards you
until the needle is all
the way up. The
easiest way to tell if
the needle is all the
way up is to look at the
take up lever; it too
should be all the way up. Place practice fabric under presser foot. Here the needle is
up and so is the presser foot.
 See this photo
showing the throat
plate on the
machine. There
are multiple marks
on the plate to
make it easier to
keep the seam
allowance even.
Using the edge of
the presser foot as
a guide, place the
edge of the fabric
about 5/8 in away
from the right edge
of the presser foot. That 5/8 in is called the seam allowance. It changes depending
on the sewing pattern but 5/8 is a good width for practice.

Place the top edge of the fabric just past the top edge of the presser foot, away from
you. If you place the needle into the fabric too close to the edge, the needle will pull
the fabric down with it into the bobbin compartment and likely cause the machine to
jam. It happens regularly, don’t fret.

When thinking about how to put the fabric under the needle and presser foot, try to
keep the less bulky side on the right. We do not want to have to shove a lot of fabric
in that space in the middle of the machine bed. It gets awkward. In simpler terms,
keep the smaller side of the seam pointing to the right.

Lower presser foot by pushing down the lever you used to raise the presser foot, the
machine will
likely not sew
unless it is down.
(old machines
will sew, new
machines will
beep at you to
warn you that it
isn’t down –
Lever up =
presser foot up,
lever down =
presser foot
down)
Holding onto the two threads, put the needle down into the fabric, either by turning
the hand wheel towards you or pressing the needle up/down button until the needle
is down in the fabric. This is one of those habits that will help you get a better start
with less issues. Older machines and machines without a needle up/down button,
the needle is all the way down when the take up lever is all the way down. Machines
with needle up/down, just press the button once or twice to get the needle down.

It looks like I’m holding the thread but it is on the thread cutter to the upper left of the
screen.
Keep holding the upper thread and bobbin thread out behind the needle, they should
be about 4 or more inches long. I find it more convenient to hold them in your left
hand, at an angle to the back and left of the needle. Hold onto them for now.

With the needle down, place your foot on the pedal but DO NOT PRESS DOWN
YET. Use the foot that you have more control over please! If you are of driving age in
the US, it will likely be your right. This foot needs to be coordinating with your hands
the whole time the machine is sewing.
Drive the fabric

When you slowly press down a little bit on the foot pedal, the fabric is going to be
pulled away from you towards the back of the machine and the needle is going to go
up and down. The feed dogs come up and put pressure on the presser foot to grip
and move the fabric. Do not let your fingers follow the fabric under the needle.
OUCH.

Your hands will be steering the fabric under the needle while you foot controls the
speed. Just like driving a car. DO NOT FLOOR IT, YET…

When the needle starts moving up and down, you’ll have to figure out how to steer
with your hands and coordinate the speed with your foot to keep going in a straight
line at the same time. This first test run should be a straight line. We are trying to
keep the stitch about 5/8 in away from the edge.

Most sewing machines have lines marked on the sewing bed and/or throat plate with
measurements. Just keep your fabric edge on that line and you will keep a
consistent seam allowance the entire time. This takes practice, you will not have a
perfect line the first few tries. And some of us just don’t ever have a perfectly straight
line. And it’s ok! (I fall under this category, I am just to wobbly and too much of a
klutz.)

After about three stitches you can let go of the threads and put your other hand on
the fabric. Away from the needle of course. Holding the threads at the beginning of
the stitching line is another HABIT you need to get into. It prevents so many thread
tension issues, you will gain confidence when we eliminate the issues, and you can
sew smoothly right away.

Pull out pins

when you get to
them. Slow down
and stop the
needle a few
stitch lengths
before the pin.
Remove the pin, I
like to just slide it
out with my right
hand and either
put it down in
front of the
machine where
you have a pin

holder/tray/catcher waiting. Or just leave them to the right on the bed of the sewing
machine.
 This type of sewing, close
to the edge and in line
with it, is the most
common type of sewing.
This is where we are
joining two pieces of
fabric. Think of all the
seams in your shirt,
pants, whole wardrobe!

When you are reaching

the end of the ‘road’ and approach the end of the fabric, gently lift up off the foot
pedal to slow down. There is no brake on the sewing machine, just by lifting off the
pedal will stop the needle.

You can sew off the fabric if you want or you can stop right before the end.

When you are done sewing

the line, put the presser foot
up. Then raise the needle all
the way up again.

Finish with the needle up. So

you can pull out the fabric
without breading the needle.

Either push the needle up

button or turn the hand wheel
until the take up lever is all the
way up and pull the fabric out of the machine.

Trim the thread leaving a small tail (3-4 inches) on the practice fabric and leave at
least 4 inches coming from the needle and bobbin. This sets you up for your next bit
of sewing, you don’t have to do any prep to get the thread out 4 inches, it’s already
done. The stitches should all be a uniform length and close to the fabric.