Whittled Peg Rack
Whittled Peg Rack
Historically, peg racks like this one were hidden. They were fastened to the back walls of wardrobes in the days before wire coat hangers were
invented. But this one’s too nice to hide!
• You can adjust the length of your peg rack to fit any wall, and you can mount as many or as few pegs as you like. They don’t all have to look
alike, either. As your whittling technique improves, the pegs will become more consistent.
This project gives beginning woodworking students the opportunity to develop their whittling skills while doing some basic measuring, cutting,
drilling and assembling to produce a great-looking household necessity. If you haven’t done it much before, you’ll find that whittling is relaxing
and enjoyable, not to mention a nice break from machine work. You can also choose to cut the pegs with a scrollsaw to get some practice on
that machine. And after you build the piece, you’ll learn how to apply and use finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.
–1–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: BEGINNER PROJECT 2003-2004 WHITTLED PEG RACK
TOOLS REQUIRED
Hand Tools Power Tools Miscellaneous – Fine (000) steel wool
– Whittling knife – Drill or drill press with – Pencil (for Polyshades®)
– Block plane 1/2" drill bit – Safety glasses – Respirator
– Table saw – Carpenter’s glue – Gloves for finishing
– Scrollsaw, stationary belt – Sandpaper – Mineral spirits
and drum sanders (for – Clean, lint-free cloths – Water-filled metal container
machine-made pegs) – Small square with tight-fitting lid
– Woodcarver’s glove – Minwax® Wood Finish™
– Leather thumb guard Stain Brush
–2–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: BEGINNER PROJECT 2003-2004 WHITTLED PEG RACK
BEFORE YOU BEGIN 5. Create the convex curve of the head by making shallow, flat cuts
Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make across the end grain. Work down from the top and up from the bottom
the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have toward the middle.
any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always
discuss them with your shop instructor. 6. Cradle the blank in one hand and use a potato-peeling motion. Draw
• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a the knife through the wood to the stop cut at the shoulder. This is
tool to the project lumber. where a sharp, stiff blade is at its best. Work down by alternately cham-
• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work fering (deeply beveling) the outer edges, then removing the center
that creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate ridge until you reach the pattern lines. Finish the peg by chamfering all
respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners outer edges.
or other solvents.
• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put 7. Cut the 2-3/4"-wide backboard to the desired length; you can
away all portable tools. make it as long as you want, keeping in mind that the holes for the
pegs should be spaced at least 5" apart (Fig. A). Chamfer the edges
CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY with a block plane and then drill 1/2" holes centered 1-5/8" from the
PROCEDURE top edge. Drill holes between the outer two pegs on each end for
attaching to a wall. Check the size of your fastener to determine the size
1. Using the measurements shown in Fig. B, make a template of the
of these holes. Sand the backboard smooth.
peg’s profile on a piece of cardboard. Cut the peg blanks to the dimen-
sions shown and transfer the profile onto both sides of a blank. Orient
8. To install the pegs, apply glue around the insides of the holes with a
the grain so it runs roughly parallel to the bottom edge of the blank.
slim wooden stick, then twist the pegs into place, making sure that their
flat sides are perpendicular to the long dimension of the backboard.
2. The only tool you need for whittling is a knife. Choose one that’s
You can check this with a small square.
comfortable; a big handle can give you more control. Make sure the
blade is sharp so that you’ll be able to make controlled cuts that are
clean and smooth. Always wear a woodcarver’s glove and a leather
STAINING AND FINISHING
thumb guard to protect yourself. Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short
your sanding, preparation and application, don’t do it. These
Woodworker’s Tips: Practice on an extra blank. Whittling is like tasks are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish.
peeling a potato. You hold the piece of wood in your free hand, Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and smoothness
position the thumb of your whittling hand against the end of it, of the parts that will determine how people judge your craftsman-
and draw the knife blade through the wood toward your thumb. ship. To ensure an excellent result, follow the steps below and also
Make deliberate, shallow cuts, applying just enough pressure to let the instructions the manufacturers put on their products.
the knife do its job. Don’t make too deep a cut and don’t force the
knife. That knife is sharp! FINISHING TIPS
You’ll be able to tell which way the grain runs by how the • Test the stains and finishes you are planning to use on scraps of
knife cuts. Cutting with the grain is smooth and easy, and so is wood. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination
cutting across the grain, as long as you cut from the outer edges and the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before
toward the center. However, cutting against the grain is likely to making your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick
result in slips, tear-out and a rough result. When this happens, just reference on future projects.
turn the piece around so you can cut with the grain. Whittling is • All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between
so easy that with just a little practice it will become second nature. coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and
other climatic conditions.
3. Extend the shoulder lines of the peg’s head and tail across the top of • If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that
stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from
the blank, then cut squarely along the lines to establish the shoulders.
forming a tight seal.
Remove the waste above the tenon with a backsaw. If you’re not whit-
• Brushes used for oil-based finishes must be cleaned with mineral
tling the pegs, set up the scrollsaw and proceed with the cutting. You
spirits; for water-based products, such as Minwax® Water-Based
can form the rounded shapes with a stationary belt sander and a drum
Wood Stains or Minwax® Polycrylic® Protective Finish, clean
sander.
brushes with warm water and soap.
4. If you are whittling, round the back end of the tenon blank with
9. Before staining and finishing, finish-sand all surfaces and ease all
short, paring cuts until it just starts to fit a 1/2" test hole drilled in a
the edges. Wipe the piece down with a cloth dampened with mineral
scrap piece. Apply a little pressure and spin it to slightly crush the
spirits. If you’re building the rack with a softwood, such as pine, or a
fibers of the unfinished part of the tenon. Remove the peg and pare the
porous hardwood, like maple, you’ll need to prepare it for staining
rest of the tenon to this mark. Test and pare as necessary for a snug fit.
with a coat of Minwax® Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner when using an oil-
based stain or with Minwax® Water-Based Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
–3–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: BEGINNER PROJECT 2003-2004 WHITTLED PEG RACK
if using a water-based stain. Applying the conditioner will help to 19. Apply Minwax® Water-Based Wood Stain using either a nylon/
ensure even absorption of stain and prevent blotchiness that can occur polyester brush or a soft cloth. Allow stain to penetrate no longer
with some soft or porous woods. Simply brush the conditioner over all than 3 minutes. While stain is still wet, wipe off excess with a clean
the wood and allow it to penetrate for 5 to 15 minutes. Then remove cloth that’s been lightly dampened with stain using with-the-grain
excess conditioner with a clean, dry cloth. strokes. If a second coat is desired, allow the piece to dry for 2 hours
before applying stain. Let the piece dry thoroughly before applying the
Recommended Finish: protective clear finish.
10. After sanding the piece with 220-grit sandpaper using with-the-
grain strokes, thoroughly wipe off with a clean, lint-free cloth. Apply Woodworker’s Tip: Minwax® Water-Based Wood Stain is
Minwax® Polyshades® following the directions on the can. Use a nat- available in 6 wood tones, a White Wash Pickling Stain and 60
ural bristle brush intended for use with polyurethane. Stir the can custom-mixed colors. This means that you are not limited to just
contents thoroughly before starting and periodically repeat the stirring traditional wood tones (pine, oak, walnut, etc.). Instead, you can
during your work session. Allow the first coat to dry overnight. pick and apply a color to complement the décor of the room in
which the peg rack will hang. For this reason, make sure you look
11. Once Polyshades® is completely dry, lightly go over all surfaces over all of the Minwax® stain color charts before making your
with fine (000) steel wool or 220-grit sandpaper using with-the-grain final selection.
strokes. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a soft cloth. Apply a
second coat of Polyshades® and set the piece aside to dry overnight. 20. After allowing the piece to dry thoroughly, apply Minwax®
Polycrylic® Protective Finish following the directions on the can. Stir
12. If a third coat is desired for more color or increased protection, the contents of the can thoroughly before starting and periodically
repeat step 11. Allow the finish to cure for several days before repeat the stirring during your work session.
installing the rack.
21. Using a nylon/polyester brush, work a small area at a time to
Alternate Finish: maintain a wet edge when applying the first coat. Work quickly
13. Prepare the wood as you did in step 9. and make the final strokes in each newly finished section using
with-the-grain brushstrokes.
14. Apply the Minwax® Gel Stain using a natural bristle brush or a
clean, lint-free cloth. Allow the Gel Stain to set for about 5 to 10 22. Allow the finish to dry a minimum of 2 hours. Then sand lightly
minutes, then wipe off any excess. Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours with 220-grit sandpaper. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a clean,
before applying the protective clear finish. soft cloth.
Woodworker’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that 23. Repeat steps 20 and 21 to apply the second coat. Allow the finish
your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. to cure for about 1 to 2 days before installing the rack.
15. Apply Minwax® Wipe-On Poly following the directions on the PRODUCT SAFETY
can. Use a clean, soft, lint-free cotton cloth. Allow the first coat to For your safety and the safety of those you work with, always read the
dry overnight. safety warnings, which manufacturers print on their labels, and follow
them to the letter. Typical safety advice and instructions will contain
16. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper information such as the following:
using with-the-grain strokes. Thoroughly wipe off all surfaces with a
soft cloth. Apply a second coat of Wipe-On Poly and set the piece WARNING! Removal of old paint by sanding, scraping or other means
aside to dry overnight. may generate dust or fumes that contain lead. Exposure to lead dust
or fumes may cause brain damage or other adverse health effects,
17. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. especially in children or pregnant women. Controlling exposure to lead
Thoroughly wipe off the piece with a soft cloth and apply the third or other hazardous substances requires the use of proper protective
and final coat of Wipe-On Poly. Allow the finish to cure for several equipment, such as properly fitted respirator (NIOSH approved) and
days before installing the rack. proper containment and cleanup. For more information, call the
National Lead Information Center at 1-800-424-LEAD (in US) or
Two-Tone Finish: contact your local health authority.
18. Before applying Minwax® Water-Based Wood Stain to a hardwood
or softwood, apply Minwax® Pre-Stain Water-Based Wood Conditioner
following the directions on the can. After 1 to 5 minutes, wipe off all
excess conditioner using a clean, lint-free cloth. Wait 15 to 30 minutes,
then use 220-grit sandpaper to sand off any “whiskers” raised by the
conditioner. Proceed to the staining within 2 hours.
–4–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: BEGINNER PROJECT 2003-2004 WHITTLED PEG RACK
–5–
CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: BEGINNER PROJECT 2003-2004 WHITTLED PEG RACK
1/2"-DIA.
HOLES
1-5/8"
A 20"
5" 1/2"-DIA.
HOLES
2-3/4"
2-1/2"
WALL FASTENER
HOLES
TENON
NECK 1"
HEAD
3-1/2"
9/16"
–6–