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FABRIC/FABRIC DESIGN-Weaving

Thailand, Cambodia, Laos and Vietnam

Thai silk is produced from the cocoons of Thai silkworms. It is mainly produced in Khorat
which is the center of the silk industry in Thailand. Thai weavers from this region raise the caterpillars on
a steady diet of mulberry leaves.

Two main types of Cambodian weaving:

1. ikat technique (Khmer term: chong kiet) - To create patterns, weavers tie and dye portions of weft yarn
before weaving begins. Patterns are diverse and vary by region; common motifs include lattice, stars, and spots.
2. uneven twill - It yields single or two-color fabrics, which are produced by weaving three threads so that the "color of one
thread dominates on one side of the fabric, while the two others determine the color on the reverse side." Traditionally,
Cambodian textiles have employed natural dyes coming from:
a. Red dye - insect nests,
b. Blue dye 3 indigo
c. Yellow and Green dye - prohut bark
d. Black dye - ebony bar
Cotton textiles have also played a significant role in Cambodian culture. Though today, Cambodia imports most of
its cotton, traditionally woven cotton remains popular. Rural women often weave homemade cotton fabric, which is used in
garments and for household purposes. Krama, the traditional check scarves worn almost universally by Cambodians, are made
of cotton.
According to Lao tradition, stories of their history were not passed on orally nor was it written,
they wove it. Strand by strand, Lao stories were weaved in the intricate dense patterns and motifs of
textiles. Unfortunately, some are elaborately fantastic, and the motifs so cryptic, that in many cases only
the weaver can accurately interpret the story. Most diverse of these stories are the ones woven into a sihn-the
Lao women’s ankle-long skirt whose form is undeniable but whose patterns are unique to each skirt.

Vietnamese silk called “lua” was once an extravagant luxury. These come from the most traditionally
illustrious silk villages Ha Dong, the center of weaving and sericulture (silk worm production) for centuries.
Old jacquard looms (an equipment used for weaving) are still used, weaving patterns containing centuries-
old symbols and characters.
Popular Vietnamese fabric include:
1. Shantung taffeta
2. Bengaline weave
3. Ebony satin - an all-natural lustrous silk hand-woven in southern Vietnam and naturally dyed using ebony fruit
pods. The fabric dates back over a century, but was only recently revitalized by the designer Vo Viet Chung.

Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore and Brunei

Batik is the most common fabric in these countries. The term “batik” is an Indonesian-Malay word,
believed to be related to the Malay word “titik”, which means 8point’, 8dot’ or 8drop’. The
“drop”action refers to the process of dyeing the fabric by making use of a resist technique: covering
areas of cloth with a dye-resistant substance (usually hot wax) to prevent them from absorbing colors.
This technique has been taught for over a thousand years.
There are two categories of batik designs:
1. geometric motifs
2. free form designs
Modern batik designs depend on the creativity of their designers. Naturalistic motifs like leaves, flowers, and birds have
been utilized to create elaborate and intricatedesigns. Modern designs also include more colors, courtesy of chemical dyes, as artists
are not bound by the strict guidelines of traditional practices, when craftsmen were dependent on natural dyes.

In Malaysia, the states of Kelantan and Terengganu are considered the cradle where batik first flourished, reaching even
Singapore’s shores.
There are two main types of batik that are produced there:
1. Handpainted-the artist uses the canting, a small copper container with one or more different-sized pipes
2. Blockprinted- is done by welding together strips of metal to form a metal block. The metal block is then dipped into molten wax
and pressed against the fabric in order to make a pattern.
Leaves and flowers in Malaysian batiks are incorporated to avoid the interpretation of human and animal images as idolatry,
in accordance with local Islamic doctrine. This makes their batik look similar to that of Indonesia. However, the Malaysian batik is
famous for its geometrical designs or spirals. The method of Malaysian batik-making is also different from those of Indonesian
Javanese batik. Their patterns are larger and simpler. More brush painting is applied to be able to put lighter and more vibrant colors
than deep-colored Javanese batik.
 In Singapore, the existence and use of batik has been recorded since the 12th century but has
receded in popularity through the years. Nowadays, batik is featured in as the uniform of flight
attendants for the official flag carrier airlines of Singapore, Indonesia, and Malaysia.

Brunei's traditional textile is also called batik but it is uniquely different from Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore. Its
designs have their national flower simpur, sumboi-sumboi (pitcher plant), and Brunei's traditional design of air muleh.
Different techniques are used in Brunei’s batik like airbrushing, cracking, bubble, rainbow, sprinkle, geometry, and marble. Hand-
made batik designs are created through the art of layering and mixing of colors injected with creativity.
Batik can be done in four different ways:
1. hand-drawn
2. using metal blocks
3. screen printing
4. digital printing

ARTS AND CRAFTS

Thailand (Sky Lantern Festival )
In Thailand, flying lanterns are used during the year for festivals, the most popular being the
Loy Krathong Festival. This festival is held on the night of the 12th full moon, usually in November.
Flying lanterns are made out of rice paper with a bamboo frame, which contain a fuel cell or small
candle. When the fuel cell is lit, the flame heats the air inside the lantern, causing the lantern to rise.

Cambodia and Laos

In Cambodia, handicrafts are part of their traditional culture and their livelihood as they produce
textiles, baskets, jars, pottery, and other tools for their daily use.
Many indigenous groups have established small enterprises and produce traditional products to generate
supplementary income in order to support their livelihood. The handicraft sector provides vital employment
opportunities to most indigenous artisans and disadvantaged people, especially women who are struggling
for survival.

On the other hand, Laos make paper by hand in the wider region for over 700 years using the bark
of the local sa or mulberry tree. The bark is crushed and soaked in water until it dissolves into a paste. The
liquid is then scooped out, poured through a bamboo sieve and finally placed in a thin layer on a bamboo
bed and dried in the sun.

Traditionally sa paper was used for calligraphy and for making festive temple decorations, umbrellas, fans, and kites. In
former times it is also used as a filter in the manufacture of lacquerware. In recent years the art of sa paper
handicraft has been revived, particularly in Luang Prabang, Northern Laos, where it is now used to create lampshades, writing
paper, greetings cards, and bookmarks.

Vietnam
Vietnamese silk painting is one of the most popular forms of art in Vietnam, favored for the
mystical atmosphere that can be achieved with the medium. During the 19th and 20th centuries, French
influence was absorbed into Vietnamese art such as the liberal and modern use of color. Vietnamese silk
paintings typically showcase the countryside, landscapes, pagodas, historical events, or scenes of daily life.

Indonesia (Wayang Kulit)-“Wayang” means show or perform in modern Indonesian language. Others say that
wayang is also attributed to the Indonesian word bayang which means shadow. “Kulit” means skin, a reference
to the leather material that the figures are carved out of. It is derived from a Javanese Hindu-Buddhist
tradition, where hand-crafted leather puppets depict epic stories of the gods in shadow play.
The puppets are moved behind a cotton or linen screen by a Dalang, or a “puppet master" in a shadow puppet play.

Malaysia (Wau Kite)

Wau Kite in Malay is a uniquely designed Malaysian kite called 'Wau’. Its wings are similar to an
Arabic letter. Farmers used kites as scarecrows in the fields and as a means to lull their children to sleep, so
they could work with little interruption.
Brunei (Songkok)
The songkok or peci or kopiah is a cap widely worn in Indonesia, Brunei, Malaysia, Singapore, the southern Philippines and
southern Thailand. Mostly among Muslim males used Songkok in formal situations such as wedding feasts, funerals, or festive
occasions such as the Muslim Eidul-Fitr and Eid AL-Adha.
Categories of Men's Headgear
1. Songkok (or kopiah) – a type of cap made from velvet
2. Destar – is a piece of cloth tied around the head
3. Tengkolok (or serban) – resembles a turban and is a typical headdress in the Middle East
Activity 1
Direction: Match the word/craft in Column A to its country of origin in Column B. Write the letter of the correct answer in
your arts notebook.
Column A Column B
_______1. Uneven twill weaving A. Singapore
_______2. Sihn B. Laos
_______3. Silk painting C. Brunei
_______4. Block printed batik D. Cambodia and Laos
_______5. Sa paper E. Vietnam
F. Thailand
Activity 2: Have a careful analysis on the following pictures. Identify what is it and describe each picture as much as you can.
Activity 3: See the Difference!
Direction: Using the Venn diagram, compare and contrast the two pictures in terms of the elements of art.

Activity 4: Read and analyze carefully the statements, write C if the statement is correct; IC if it is incorrect. If it is incorrect
write the correct answer. Write your answer in your notebook.
____ 1.Vietnamese silk painting originated from drawing and painting of commercial paper.
____ 2.Loy Krathong is a Thai festival where sky lanterns are released into the air and let them float up into the sky.
____ 3.Merlion is portrayed as a mythical creature with a lion's head and the body of a mermaid.
____ 4. Malaysian batik rarely used humans or animals as motifs because Islam norms forbid animal images as decoration.
____ 5.Indonesian is famous in their iconic temple known as Angkor Wat.
____ 6. The puppet master who manipulates and narrates the story in Wayang Kulit shadow puppetry is called Dhajang.
____ 7.Malaysian handicraft designs are heavily influenced by Christianity with an elaborate presentation of their nature,
culture, custom, tradition and religion.
____ 8. This kite-making tradition comes naturally to Cambodian people.
____ 9.Modern Batik is a revolutionary repackaged application that enhances the detail of an image on fabric using resistant
dyeing.
____ 10.In Yi Peng Festival, sky lanterns are made up of nice paper stretched over a bamboo frame with a candle attached at
the base.