Pattern

Pattern:
A pattern is a template (outline/model) made of paper. Generally thick paper is used in the
industry which replicates a part of a garment and includes seam and hem allowance. It is a hard
paper which is made by following all the specifications of each & individual components. It must
be able to accurately communicate all the functions for which it is designed. Pattern is a link
between design and production.
The replica, shape, or template of a part of garments is called the pattern.
The making of exact image of each part of a garment with flat hard board paper is called the
pattern.
Basic Block: A basic block is a set of pattern pieces for the simplest garment of particular type
that reflects a set of measurement and fit for the sample size. Seam allowances are not included
in block. The term basic block, sloper may be used interchangeably. Apparel firms have basic
blocks for each types of product in their product line: Shirts, pants, jackets and so on.
Working Pattern: It is a pattern of a particular style with net Dimension.
Production Pattern: The production pattern is a pattern set that has been corrected & perfected
and contains every pattern pieces require to complete the garment. It is a pattern of a particular
style with net dimension & allowance. It is used by the grader for grading sizes, & by the marker
for a fabric lay out.
Production Pattern = working pattern + Allowance.
Graded Pattern:
Finalized production patterns are graded in to specified sizes. Pattern grading is the process of
increasing and decreasing the dimensions of each pattern piece according to a buyer’s grade rule
of proportional change. Grade rule is a proportional difference is measurement between sizes in
the specific measurement.
Graded pattern are used to make marker. A pattern is a diagram or an arrangement of the pattern
pieces for size or sizes that are to be cut at one time. Pattern piece that fit together well in a
marker allow better fabric utilization and reduce cost of product.
Grading: When Different sizes of pattern pieces normally made from the master pattern of the
Garment is called Grading.

Sample Pattern:
A sample pattern is one which is designed for preliminary checking whether the pattern correctly
matches the given size of the part.
Pattern Instructions: To enable the garment to be made up correctly the following instruction
must be marked on the pattern.
a) The name of each piece

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b) Center back and center front

c) The number of piece to be cut
d) Folds
e) Seam allowance
f) Construction line
g) Grain line.
Allowance: When garment is made adding extra dimensions with the net dimensions of the
garment is called allowance.
Face: The correct side or the side of the fabric is called face.
Center Front Line: The Straight line bottom to up vertically along the middle point of the body
front of the shirt or Jacket.
Lay: As part of preparation of fabric cutting, a number of layers of fabrics are placed according
to the length and width of marker. Such type of fabric layers is called the lay.
Swatch: Swatch is a presentation of all the materials is (fabric &accessories) used for any
specific style/order. Usually small piece of fabric and each piece of accessories are attached in
board paper in a systematic manner.
Interlining: In certain part of a garment, a special fabric layer is used between two layers of
fabric for retention of the shape of the part, for increasing the strength, or for increasing the
thickness and the special type of fabric layer is called inter lining.
Lining: A generic term for fabrics used to cover inner surfaces of products, especially the inner
face employs different material from the outer surface.
Dummy: A model of the exact shape of a human body that is kept standing on a stand is called
the dummy.
Bodies: The portion of the lady’s apparels from the neck down to waist.
Bar Tack: Re- stitching over a very short length to give and increase the area a high load
bearing strength.
Dart: It is used for tightness of garments. It is made by stitching the fabric. It is used for
removing wedge from the garments surface.

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Pleat: A pleat is a type of fold formed by doubling fabric back upon itself and securing it in
place. It is commonly used in clothing and upholstery to gather a wide piece of fabric to a
narrower circumference. It is used to increase the fullness of the garments. It is generally made
by folding the fabric.
Dart & Pleat are used in the back part of the Men’s shirt usually.

Pattern Grain Line: Pattern pieces normally carry a line which is called grain line. When
pattern pieces are laid down during marker making over the cloth, the grain line should be
parallel to the warp if the fabric woven & wales in case of Knitted Fabric. Only the Exception is
seen for Bias cut Fabric. Direction of grain line as follows:
1) Straight/Vertical grain line: Vertical grain lines are drawn parallel to centre for garment
cut on straight grain.

2) Bias grain Line: Bias grain lines are down at right angle to centre (45-degree angle for
true bias).

3) Crosswise grain line: Crosswise grain lines are drawn at right angle for garments cut on
crosswise grain.

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Pattern Symbols

Size lines – almost all dressmaking patterns will have a cutting or size line. Use the
accompanying chart from the designer to determine your size and cut along this line.

Centre Front / Centre Back lines – often illustrated with a dashed or dotted line, the centre
front or centre back is usually marked to help you line up pattern pieces, for example
overlapping the front bodice pieces of a shirt at the button stand.

Notches – these are usually triangles or dashes on the edge of a pattern piece. They allow you to
match up different pattern pieces at the correct points. Some people cut outwards but other
choose to snip inwards where these points are marked. Be careful not to cut too far into the fabric
(just 3mm should do it), especially in case you need to make adjustments later on.

Grainlines – These are single or double ended arrows that run the length of the pattern piece.
The grainline should be used to position the pattern piece parallel to the fabric selvedge. Measure
from the top of the grainline across to the selvedge and the bottom of the grainline to the

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selvedge, these two numbers should match. If it is a single arrowed grainline, the arrow should
point upwards in the same direction of the fabric print. If it is a double arrowed grainline, the
pattern piece can be orientated in either direction, parallel to the selvedge.

Fold lines – a fold line may be marked with just the words or a boxed arrow and indicates that
this edge of the pattern piece should be placed along the folded edge of the fabric (where right
sides of the fabric are folded against each other with selvedge’s matching). There is no seam
allowance along a fold line. This is typical for a bodice, skirt or facing piece.

Cutting line – this will usually be illustrated with a dotted or solid line with a scissors icon. It
indicates where you should cut along fabric.

Adjustment lines – these are single or double lines running across pattern pieces that signify the
best point to shortening of lengthen the pattern pieces depending on your body shape. Cut along
these lines and these move apart or overlap the two pieces to get the desired length. These are
often marked as ‘shorten or lengthen here’.

Darts – these are usually shown as dotted or solid lines in a triangle/diamond shape. They
indicate where you should stitch to create shape at the bust, waist and shoulders.

Buttonholes and Buttons – these can be illustrated in lots of way, from dashes to circles, dots or
barred lines. One side of the bodice will be for buttonholes, the other side buttons.

Zipper mark – often illustrated with a notch or line and arrow, it marks where a zipper should
be inserted.

Stitching lines – these are usually dashed lines that indicate where you should topstitch, for
example to attach pockets or a trouser ’s fly front.

Shapes – a wide variety of shapes are used on patterns from circles to dots and crosses to
indicate important points on the pattern. These will help you to match pattern pieces together at
the correct point and stitch accurately. These are often included for design features such as in
seam pockets, bust points or to show you where to start and stop stitching.

Dart lines – either marked with lines or notches and arrows, darts are marked to show where and
in what direction to fold the fabric.

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