A R N E & C A R L O S

F O L K E
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 A R N E & C A R L O S

F O L K E

SKILL LEVEL

SIZE Shape back neck

To fit bust/chest (cm/in) Next row (RS): (K1, P1) 17 [18: 20: 23: 25: 26: 29: 31] times, K0 [1: 1: 0: 0:
81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 132-137 142-147 152-157 1: 0: 0] and turn, leaving rem sts on a holder. 34 [37: 41: 46: 50: 53: 58: 62] sts.
32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 52-54 56-58 60-62 Work each side of neck separately.
Actual bust/chest measurement of garment Next row: (K2tog) 1 [0: 0: 1: 1: 0: 1: 1] times, (P2tog, K1) 0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0]
100 109 120 129 140 149 160 169 times, *P1, K1, rep from * to end. 33 [36: 40: 45: 49: 52: 57: 61] sts.
39¼ 43 47¼ 50¾ 55 58¾ 63 66½ These 2 rows set moss st.
Keeping moss st correct as set, dec 1 st at neck edge of next and foll 2 alt rows.
YARN 30 [33: 37: 42: 46: 49: 54: 58] sts.
Norwegian Wool (50gm) Work 2 rows.
A Wind Chime 010 Shape shoulder
3 3 3 3 4 4 4 4 Cast off in moss st.
B Frost Grey 016 With RS facing, slip centre 28 [30: 32: 32: 34: 36: 36: 38] sts onto a holder
6 7 8 9 9 10 11 12 (for neckband), rejoin yarn C to rem sts, K0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0], *P1, K1,
C Ribbon Red 018 rep from * to end.
1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 Complete to match first side, reversing shapings.

NEEDLES FRONT
1 pair 3mm (no 11) (US 2/3) needles Work as given for back until 16 [16: 18: 18: 20: 20: 20: 22] rows less have
1 pair 3¾mm (no 9) (US 5) needles been worked than on back to beg of back neck shaping, ending after row
46 [46: 44: 44: 42: 42: 42: 40] of chart and with RS facing for next row.
TENSION Shape front neck
25 sts and 24 rows to 10 cm measured over patterned st st, 22 sts and 28 rows Note: Front neck shaping is not shown on chart.
to 10 cm measured over plain st st, 19 sts and 35 rows to 10 cm measured over Next row (RS): Patt 51 [55: 62: 68: 74: 79: 86: 90] sts and turn, leaving rem
moss st, all using 3¾mm (US 5) needles. sts on a holder.
Work each side of neck separately.
BACK Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 4 [4: 4: 4: 2: 4: 4: 2] rows,
Using 3mm (US 2/3) needles and yarn B cast on 106 [114: 126: 138: 150: then on foll 5 [5: 6: 6: 8: 7: 7: 9] alt rows, ending after row 61 of chart and with
158: 170: 182] sts. WS facing for next row. 42 [46: 52: 58: 64: 68: 75: 79] sts.
Row 1 (RS): K2, *P2, K2, rep from * to end. Break off yarns A and B.
Row 2: P2, *K2, P2, rep from * to end. Next row (WS): Using yarn C, P4 [4: 4: 6: 6: 6: 7: 9], P2tog, (P1, P2tog)
These 2 rows form rib. 11 [12: 14: 15: 17: 18: 20: 20] times, P to end. 30 [33: 37: 42: 46: 49: 54: 58] sts.
Cont in rib until back meas 6 cm, dec 2 [0: 0: 2: 2: 0: 0: 2] sts evenly across last Now work in moss st as folls:
row and ending with RS facing for next row. Next row (RS): *K1, P1, rep from * to last 0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0] sts,
104 [114: 126: 136: 148: 158: 170: 180] sts. K0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0].
Change to 3¾mm (US 5) needles. Next row: K0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0], *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Beg with a K row, now work in st st as folls: The last 2 rows form moss st.
Inc 1 st at each end of 29th [31st: 33rd: 35th: 37th: 37th: 37th: 39th] and Rep last 2 rows 4 more times, ending with RS facing for next row.
2 [2: 2: 2: 2: 1: 2: 1] foll 30th [32nd: 34th: 36th: 36th: 36th: 38th: 38th] rows,
then on foll – [-: -: -: -: 38th: -: 40th] row.
(19 [19¾: 20½: 20¾: 21¼: 21¼: 21¾: 21¾] in)

26 [26¾: 27½: 28¼: 29¼: 30: 30¾: 31½] in

110 [120: 132: 142: 154: 164: 176: 186] sts.

Work 0 [0: 0: 0: 2: 6: 10: 12] rows, ending with WS facing for next row.
66 [68: 70: 72: 74: 76: 78: 80] cm
48 [50: 52: 53: 54: 54: 55: 55] cm

(Back should meas approx 38 [40: 42: 44: 46: 48: 50: 52] cm.)
Next row (WS): P10 [8: 7: 5: 4: 9: 8: 6], M1P, (P6 [7: 7: 7: 7: 7: 7: 7], M1P)
15 [15: 17: 19: 21: 21: 23: 25] times, P to end.
126 [136: 150: 162: 176: 186: 200: 212] sts.
Beg and ending rows as indicated and using the fairisle technique as
described on the information page, work 61 rows from chart, ending with
WS facing for next row.
Break off yarns A and B.
Next row (WS): Using yarn C, P4 [5: 4: 6: 5: 6: 5: 7], P2tog, (P2, P2tog)
29 [31: 35: 37: 41: 43: 47: 49] times, P to end. 50 [54.5: 60: 64.5: 70: 74.5: 80: 84.5] cm
(19¾ [21½: 23½: 25½: 27½: 29¼: 31½: 33¼] in)
96 [104: 114: 124: 134: 142: 152: 162] sts.

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Shape shoulder Next row (WS): P6 [4: 6: 8: 8: 6: 9: 4], M1P, (P6 [7: 7: 7: 6: 7: 7: 7], M1P)
Cast off in moss st. 9 [9: 9: 9: 11: 11: 11: 13] times, P to end. 76 [80: 84: 88: 94: 100: 106: 112] sts.
With RS facing, slip centre 24 [26: 26: 26: 28: 28: 28: 32] sts onto a holder Beg and ending rows as indicated and using the fairisle technique as
(for neckband), rejoin yarns to rem sts, patt to end. described on the information page, now work from chart as folls:
51 (55: 62: 68: 74: 79: 86: 90] sts. Inc 1 st at each end of 3rd [3rd: next: next: next: next: next: next] and 1 [4: 9:
Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at neck edge of next 4 [4: 4: 4: 2: 4: 4: 2] rows, 12: 15: 15: 15: 15] foll 4th rows, then on 9 [7: 4: 2: -: -: -: -] foll 6th [6th: 6th:
then on foll 5 [5: 6: 6: 8: 7: 7: 9] alt rows, ending after row 61 of chart and with 6th: -: -: -: -] rows, ending after row 61 of chart and with WS facing for next
WS facing for next row. 42 [46: 52: 58: 64: 68: 75: 79] sts. row. 98 [104: 112: 118: 126: 132: 138: 144] sts.
Break off yarns A and B. Break off yarns A and B.
Next row (WS): Using yarn C, P3 [4: 4: 5: 5: 6: 6: 8], P2tog, (P1, P2tog) Next row (WS): Using yarn C, P6 [5: 5: 4: 4: 7: 6: 5], P2tog, (P2, P2tog)
11 [12: 14: 15: 17: 18: 20: 20] times, P to end. 30 [33: 37: 42: 46: 49: 54: 58] sts. 21 [23: 25: 27: 29: 29: 31: 33] times, P to end.
Now work in moss st as folls: 76 [80: 86: 90: 96: 102: 106: 110] sts.
Next row (RS): K0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0], *P1, K1, rep from * to end. Now work in moss st as folls:
Next row: *K1, P1, rep from * to last 0 [1: 1: 0: 0: 1: 0: 0] sts, K0 [1: 1: 0: 0: Next row (RS): *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
1: 0: 0]. Next row: *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
The last 2 rows form moss st. The last 2 rows form moss st.
Rep last 2 row 4 more times, ending with RS facing for next row. Rep last 2 rows 4 more times.
Shape shoulder Cast off in moss st.
Cast off in moss st.
MAKING UP
SLEEVES Press as described on the information page.
Using 3mm (US 2/3) needles and yarn B cast on 44 [47: 47: 50: 53: 56: Join right shoulder seam using back stitch, or mattress stitch if preferred.
56: 56] sts. Neckband
Row 1 (RS): K1, *K2, P1, rep from * to last st, K1. With RS facing, using 3mm (US 2/3) needles and yarn C, pick up and knit
Row 2: K1, *K1, P2, rep from * to last st, K1. 18 [19: 22: 22: 22: 23: 23: 24] sts down left side of front neck, work across
These 2 rows form rib. 24 [26: 26: 26: 28: 28: 28: 32] sts from front holder as folls: K5 [3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3],
Cont in rib until sleeve meas 4 cm, - [dec: inc: -: dec: -: -: inc] - [1: 1: -: 1: -: K2tog, (K10 [4: 4: 4: 5: 5: 5: 6], K2tog) 1 [3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3: 3] times, K5 [3: 3: 3: 2:
-: 2] sts evenly across last row and ending with RS facing for next row. 2: 2: 3], pick up and knit 18 [19: 22: 22: 22: 23: 23: 24] sts up right side of front
44 [46: 48: 50: 52: 56: 56: 58] sts. neck, and 8 sts down right side of back neck, K across 28 [30: 32: 32: 34: 36:
Change to 3¾mm (US 5) needles. 36: 38] from back holder, then pick up and knit 8 sts up left side of back neck.
Beg with a K row, now work in st st as folls: 102 [106: 114: 114: 118: 122: 122: 130] sts.
Inc 1 st at each end of 3rd [3rd: 3rd: 3rd: next: next: next: next] and 10 [11: 12: Beg with row 2, work 11 rows in rib as given for back, ending with RS facing
13: 14: 2: 7: 9] foll 4th [4th: 4th: 4th: 4th: alt: alt: alt] rows, then on – [-: -: -: -: for next row.
13: 11: 10] foll – [-: -: -: -: 4th: 4th: 4th] rows. Cast off in rib.
66 [70: 74: 78: 82: 88: 94: 98] sts. Join left shoulder and neckband seam. Mark points along side seam edges
Work 0 [2: 4: 2: 4: 4: 4: 4] rows, ending with WS facing for next row. 20 [21: 22.5: 23.5: 25: 27: 28: 29] cm either side of shoulder seams (to denote
(Sleeve should meas approx 19.5 [21.5: 23.5: 24.5: 25.5: 25.5: 26.5: 26.5] cm.) base of armhole openings). See information page for finishing instructions,
setting in sleeves using the straight cast-off method.

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 ZB306-00002-ENP
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Key
K on RS, P on WS in yarn A
P on RS, K on WS in yarn A
K on RS, P on WS in yarn B
P on RS, K on WS in yarn B
Note: Front neck shaping is not shown on chart
60
50
40
30

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20
10
81-86 cm 81-86 cm
91-97 cm 91-97 cm
102-107 cm 81-86 cm 81-86 cm 102-107 cm
112-117 cm 91-97 cm 91-97 cm 112-117 cm
122-127 cm 102-107 cm 102-107 cm 122-127 cm
132-137 cm 112-117 cm 112-117 cm 132-137 cm
142-147 cm 122-127 cm 122-127 cm 142-147 cm
152-157 cm 132-137 cm 132-137 cm 152-157 cm
142-147 cm 142-147 cm
152-157 cm 152-157 cm
Sleeves Sleeves

©
I N F O R M AT I O N

TENSION KNITTING WITH COLOUR PRESSING

Obtaining the correct tension is perhaps the There are two main methods of working Block out each piece of knitting and following
single factor which can make the difference colour into a knitted fabric: Intarsia and the instructions on the ball band press the
between a successful garment and a disastrous Fairisle techniques. The first method garment pieces, omitting the ribs. Tip: Take
one. It controls both the shape and size of produces a single thickness of fabric and is special care to press the edges, as this will
an article, so any variation, however slight, usually used where a colour is only required make sewing up both easier and neater. If the
can distort the finished garment. Different in a particular area of a row and does not form ball band indicates that the fabric is not to be
designers feature in our books and it is their a repeating pattern across the row, as in the pressed, then covering the blocked out fabric
tension, given at the start of each pattern, fairisle technique. with a damp white cotton cloth and leaving
which you must match. We recommend that Fairisle type knitting: When two or three it to stand will have the desired effect. Darn
you knit a square in pattern and/or stocking colours are worked repeatedly across a row, in all ends neatly along the selvage edge or a
stitch (depending on the pattern instructions) strand the yarn not in use loosely behind the colour join, as appropriate.
of perhaps 5 - 10 more stitches and 5 - 10 stitches being worked. If you are working with
more rows than those given in the tension more than two colours, treat the “floating” STITCHING
note. Mark out the central 10cm square with yarns as if they were one yarn and always When stitching the pieces together, remember
pins. If you have too many stitches to 10cm spread the stitches to their correct width to to match areas of colour and texture very
try again using thicker needles, if you have keep them elastic. It is advisable not to carry carefully where they meet. Use a seam stitch
too few stitches to 10cm try again using finer the stranded or “floating” yarns over more such as back stitch or mattress stitch for all main
needles. Once you have achieved the correct than three stitches at a time, but to weave them knitting seams and join all ribs and neckband
tension your garment will be knitted to the under and over the colour you are working. with mattress stitch, unless otherwise stated.
measurements indicated in the size diagram The “floating” yarns are therefore caught at
shown at the end of the pattern. the back of the work. CONSTRUCTION
Intarsia:The simplest way to do this is to cut Having completed the pattern instructions,
CHART NOTE short lengths of yarn for each motif or block join left shoulder and neckband seams as
Many of the patterns in the book are worked of colour used in a row. Then joining in the detailed above. Sew the top of the sleeve to
from charts. Each square on a chart represents various colours at the appropriate point on the the body of the garment using the method
a stitch and each line of squares a row of knitting. row, link one colour to the next by twisting detailed in the pattern, referring to the
Each colour used is given a different letter and them around each other where they meet appropriate guide:
these are shown in the materials section, or on the wrong side to avoid gaps. All ends can Straight cast-off sleeves: Place centre
in the key alongside the chart of each pattern. then either be darned along the colour join of cast-off edge of sleeve to shoulder seam.
When working from the charts, read odd rows lines, as each motif is completed or then can Sew top of sleeve to body, using markers as
(RS) from right to left and even rows (WS) be “knitted-in” to the fabric of the knitting as guidelines where applicable.
from left to right, unless otherwise stated.When each colour is worked into the pattern.This is Square set-in sleeves: Place centre of cast-
working lace from a chart it is important to note done in much the same way as “weaving- in” off edge of sleeve to shoulder seam. Set sleeve
that all but the largest size may have to alter the yarns when working the Fairisle technique head into armhole, the straight sides at top of
first and last few stitches in order not to lose or and does save time darning-in ends. It is sleeve to form a neat right-angle to cast-off sts
gain stitches over the row. essential that the tension is noted for intarsia as at armhole on back and front.
this may vary from the stocking stitch if both Shallow set-in sleeves: Place centre of cast
WORKING A LACE PATTERN are used in the same pattern. off edge of sleeve to shoulder seam. Match
When working a lace pattern it is important decreases at beg of armhole shaping to
to remember that if you are unable to work FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS decreases at top of sleeve. Sew sleeve head into
both the increase and corresponding decrease After working for hours knitting a garment, armhole, easing in shapings.
and vica versa, the stitches should be worked it seems a great pity that many garments are Set-in sleeves: Place centre of cast-off edge
in stocking stitch. spoiled because such little care is taken in the of sleeve to shoulder seam. Set in sleeve, easing
pressing and finishing process. Follow the text sleeve head into armhole.
below for a truly professional-looking garment. Join side and sleeve seams.
Slip stitch pocket edgings and linings into
place.
Sew on buttons to correspond with buttonholes.
Ribbed welts and neckbands and any areas of
garter stitch should not be pressed.

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I N F O R M AT I O N

ABBREVIATIONS EXPERIENCE RATING - for guidance only WASH CARE INFORMATION

K knit Below are the symbols you are likely to see and a
P purl = Beginner Techniques brief explanation of each.
st(s) stitch(es) For the beginner knitter, basic garment shaping
inc increas(e)(ing) and straight forward stitch technique. MACHINE WASH SYMBOLS
dec decreas(e)(ing)
st st stocking stitch (1 row K , 1 row P) = Simple Techniques
30C 40C
g st garter stitch (K every row) Simple straight forward knitting, introducing 30C 40C
beg begin(ning) various, shaping techniques and garments.
foll following Machine Wash, Machine Wash, Machine Wash, Machine Wash,
rem remain(ing) = Experienced Techniques Cold Cold, Gentle Warn Warm, Gentle

rev st st reverse stocking stitch For the more experienced knitter, using more
(1 row P, 1 row K) advanced shaping techniques at the same time as HAND WASH SYMBOLS
rep repeat colourwork or more advanced stitch techniques.
alt alternate
cont continue = Advanced Techniques
30C 40C
patt pattern Advanced techniques used, using advanced
tog together stitches and garment shaping along with more Do Not Wash Hand Wash, Hand Wash, Hand Wash,
mm millimetres challenging techniques Normal Cold Warm

cm centimetres
in(s) inch(es) BUTTONS, BEADS AND RIBBONS DRY CLEAN SYMBOLS
RS right side USED IN THIS MAGAZINE ARE
WS wrong side SOURCED FROM:
sl 1 slip one stitch P A
psso pass slipped stitch over
p2sso pass 2 slipped stitches over Do Not Dry Dry Clean, in Dry Clean,
Dry Clean Clean Certain Solvents, Any Solvent
tbl through back of loop Consult Cleaner
M1 make one stitch by picking up
horizontal loop before next stitch Bedecked Haberdashery IRONING SYMBOLS
and knitting into back of it The Coach House
M1P make one stitch by picking up Barningham Park
horizontal loop before next stitch Richmond
and purling into back of it North Yorkshire
yfwd yarn forward DL11 7DW Do Not Iron Low Iron Medium
yrn yarn round needle TEL: +44 (0) 1833 621 451 Iron Heat Heat

meas measures eMail: [email protected]

0 no stitches, times or rows Web: www.bedecked.co.uk DO NOT BLEACH SYMBOL
- no stitches, times or rows for
that size
yon yarn over needle Debbie Abrahams
yfrn yarn forward round needle
wyib with yarn at back Website: www.debbieabrahams.com Do Not
Bleach
Email: [email protected]
Tel: 0115 9607991 DRYING SYMBOLS
CROCHET TERMS
UK crochet terms and abbreviations have been Groves & Banks
used throughout.The list below gives the US Eastern Bypass
equivalent where they vary. Thame
Oxfordshire Do Not Tumble Dry, Dry Flat Do Not
Tumble Dry Gentle, Low in Shade Wring
ABBREV. UK US OX9 3FU Heat
dc (sc) double crochet (single crochet) eMail: [email protected]
htr (hdc) half treble (half double Web: www.grovesltd.co.uk
crochet)
tr (dc) treble (double crochet)
dtr (tr) double treble (treble)

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SIZING GUIDE

When you knit and wear a Rowan design we want you to look and Our womenswear sizes range from 28” (71cm) through to
feel fabulous. This all starts with the size and fit of the design you 62” (157cm) chest.Whilst our menswear and unisex sizes range from
choose.We have recently increased our size range to help you achieve 32” (81cm) to 62” (157cm).
the best fit for your knitwear.
The Dimensions in the charts below are body measurements, not
garment dimensions, therefore please refer to the measuring guide to
help you to determine which is the best size for you to knit.

STANDARD WOMENS SIZING GUIDE

The sizing within this chart is also based on the larger size within the range.

To fit chest: 28 - 30 32 - 34 36 - 38 40 - 42 44 - 46 48 - 50 52 - 54 56 - 58 60 - 62 inches Bust

71 - 76 81 - 86 91 - 97 102 - 107 112 - 117 122 - 127 132 - 137 142 - 147 152 - 157 cm
Waist
To fit waist: 20 - 22 24 - 26 28 - 30 32 - 34 36 - 38 40 - 42 44 - 46 48 - 50 52 - 54 inches
51 - 56 61 - 66 71 - 76 81 - 86 91 - 97 102 - 107 112 - 117 122 - 127 132 - 137 cm
To fit hips: 30 - 32 34 - 36 38 - 40 42 - 44 46 - 48 50 - 52 54 - 56 58 - 60 62 - 64 inches Hips
76 - 81 86 - 91 97- 102 107 - 112 117 - 122 127 - 132 137 - 142 147 - 152 157 - 163 cm

STANDARD MENS AND UNISEX SIZING GUIDE

The sizing within this chart is also based on the larger size within the range.

To fit chest: 32 - 34 36 - 38 40 - 42 44 - 46 48 - 50 52 - 54 56 - 58 60 - 62 inches Chest

81 - 86 91 - 97 102 - 107 112 - 117 122 - 127 132 - 137 142 - 147 152 - 157 cm
Waist
To fit waist: 24 - 26 28 - 30 32 - 34 36 - 38 40 - 42 44 - 46 48 - 50 52 - 54 inches
61 - 66 71 - 76 81 - 86 91 - 97 102 - 107 112 - 117 122 - 127 132 - 137 cm

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SIZING GUIDE

SIZING & SIZE DIAGRAM NOTE

The instructions are given for the smallest size. Where they vary,
work the figures in brackets for the larger sizes. One set of figures

Sleeve head depth

refers to all sizes. Included with most patterns is a size diagram,
see image opposite of the finished garment and its dimensions.

of neck to end of welt

The measurement shown at the bottom of each size diagram

measured from end

measured from side

of cuffs to armhole
shows the garment width. The size diagram will also indicate

Underarm

Length
how the garment is constructed, for example if the garment has a
drop shoulder, this will be reflected in the drawing. To help you
choose the size of garment to knit please refer to the sizing guide.
Generally in the majority of designs the welt width (at the cast on
edge of the garment) is the same width as the chest. If you don’t
want to measure yourself, note the size of a similar shaped garment Chest width
that you own and compare it with the size diagram given at the end measured 2.5cm
of the pattern. below armhole

MEASURING GUIDE

For maximum comfort and to ensure the correct fit when choosing Finally, once you have decided which size is best for you, please ensure
a size to knit, please follow the tips below when checking your size. that you achieve the tension required for the design you wish to knit.
Measure yourself close to your body, over your underwear and don’t
pull the tape measure too tight! Remember if your tension is too loose, your garment will be bigger
than the pattern size and you may use more yarn. If your tension is
Bust/chest | measure around the fullest part of the bust/chest and too tight, your garment could be smaller than the pattern size and
across the shoulder blades. you will have yarn left over.

Waist | measure around the natural waistline, just above the hip bone. Furthermore if your tension is incorrect, the handle of your fabric
will be too stiff or floppy and will not fit properly. It really does make
Hips | measure around the fullest part of the bottom. sense to check your tension before starting every project.

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