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SYLLABUS
Subject Name: INDRUSTRIAL GARMENT PRODUCTION
Department: Costume Design and Fashion
Class: I CDF
Semester: II (Even)

Unit: 1 Stitching Mechanism

Stitching mechanism- Needles, bobbin and bobbin case, bobbin winding, loops and loop
Spreader, upper and lower threading, auxiliary hooks, throat plates, take ups, tension discs-
upper and lower thread tension, stitching auxiliaries, pressure foot and its types, Feed
mechanisms - drop feed, differential fed, needle feed, compound feed, unison feed, puller
feed.

Unit: 2 Cutting and Spreading Methods

Spreading - Types of spread and its quality, parts and functions of spreading equipment,
spreading methods. Cutting equipment – Parts and functions of Straight knife cutting
machine, rotary cutting machine, band knife cutting machine, die cutters.

Unit: 3 Marking and Pressing Methods

Marking methods, positioning marking types of markers, efficiency of a marker plan,
requirements of marker planning. Pressing – purpose, pressing equipment’s and methods –
iron, steam press, steam air finisher, steam tunnel, special types – pleating, permanent.

Unit: 4 Sewing Machineries

Sewing Machineries - Classification of sewing machines, parts and functions of Single
Needle lock stitch machine, over lock machine, bar tacking machine, button hole machine,
button fixing machine, blind stitching machine, fabric examining machine. Special
attachments, care and maintenance of sewing machines, Common problems and remedies.

Unit: 5 Packaging, Sewing Threads, Stitches and Seams

Garment Packaging – Types of package forms Sewing threads- types, essential qualities of a
sewing thread.

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Subject Name: INDRUSTRIAL GARMENT PRODUCTION

Department: Costume Design and Fashion
Class: I CDF
Semester: II

Unit I:

Stitching mechanism- Needles, bobbin and bobbin case, bobbin winding, loops and loop
Spreader, threading finger, upper and lower threading, auxiliary hooks, throat plates, take ups,
tension discs- upper and lower thread tension, stitching auxiliaries, pressure foot and its
types, Feed mechanisms - drop feed, differential fed, needle feed, compound feed, unison
feed, puller feed.

STITCHING MECHANISM
A sewing machine is a machine used to stitch fabric and other materials together with
thread. Sewing machines were invented during the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the
amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Since the invention of the
first working sewing machine, generally considered to have been the work of Englishman
Thomas Saint in 1790, the sewing machine has greatly improved the efficiency and
productivity of the clothing industry.
Home sewing machines are designed for one person to sew individual items while using a
single stitch type. In a modern sewing machine the fabric easily glides in and out of the
machine without the inconvenience of needles and thimbles and other such tools used in hand
sewing, automating the process of stitching and saving time. Industrial sewing machines, by
contrast to domestic machines, are larger, faster, and more varied in their size, cost,
appearance, and task.
NEEDLE
The way in which fabric is penetrated by the needle during sewing has a direct effect
on seam strength and on garment appearance and wearable life.
TYPES OF SEWING NEEDLES
I. Hand sewing needles
1) Sewing needle
a) standard
b) long
2) Embroidery needle
a) pointed

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b) round
3) Darning needle
II. Machine sewing needle
1) Round pointed needle
 Set point
 Ball point
2) Cutting point needle
1. HAND SEWING NEEDLE
For hand sewing, the needle should be large enough to carry the thread easily. If a
needle that is too small it will cut the thread, and a too- large needle may tear the cloth. For
basting we suggest the long needle used my milliners.

The needles commonly used in dress making are called sharps. In your sewing basket
you should keep a supply of sharps nos. 5, 6,7,8,9 and 10.For very heavy work use nos. 5 and
6 with threads 20 to 40. Use needles 7 and 8 for threads nos. 60 to 90 and needles 9 and 10
for threads nos. 100 to 150.
2. MACHINE NEEDLE
All sewing machine needles have the same basic parts. The variation in needles is caused by
the shape of the parts and the length of the parts.

The function of the sewing machine needle is general are:

 To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through and to do so without
causing any damage to the material.
 To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop which can be
picked up by the hook on the bobbin case in a lock stitch machine or by the looper or
other mechanism in machine.

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 To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the lopper mechanism on the
machines other than lock stitch.
Shank
 The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle is called the shank. This part of the
needle is inserted in the machine. Home sewing machine needles are composed of a
flat and a round side, to assist in always having the needle in the correct position.
 Always refer to your sewing machine manual for the correct way to insert the needle
in your machine.
 Industrial machine needles have a completely round shaft and the groove is used to
know which direction to put a new needle in the machine.
Shaft
 The shaft of the sewing machine needle is the area from the bottom of the shank to the
point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of the needle.
Groove
 The groove is in the side of the needle leading to the eye. The groove is a place for the
thread to lay into the needle.
 Use your fingernail and feel the groove of the needle on various sizes to understand
why a different size thread would be needed for heavier thread.
Scarf

 The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case
hook to intersect with the upper thread and form stitches.
Eye
 The eye of the needle carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches.
 The size of the eye can vary and works in conjunction with the groove of the needle.
 Using a needle with an eye that is too small or too large can cause your thread to
shred and break.
Point
 The point of the needle is the first contact with the fabric and responsible for how the
needle pierces the fabric.
 The most common type of points is sharps, ball point and universal.
1. Sharp needles are for all woven fabrics. The sharp point is especially helpful
when sewing straight lines and tasks such as tops stitching.
2. Ball point needles are designed for knit fabric so that the point glides between
the loops of a knit fabric without disturbing the fibers that make up the fabric.

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Ball point needles do not form as straight stitching as sharp needles. The non
straight stitching is more apt to stretch with the fabric.
3. Universal needles can be used with woven or knit fabric. The point of the
universal needle is sharp yet very slightly rounded giving it the characteristic
of a sharp and a ball point needle. If you are not happy with the stitches your
machine is forming, try switching the needle to either a ball point or sharp.
NEEDLES USED IN REGULAR SEWING

FABRIC THREAD TYPE SIZE

Very Light-Sheer Woven
Batiste, Chiffon, Lace, Crepe d' Chine, Polyester, Cotton,
S 9/65
Georgette, Netting, Organdy, Voile, and and Silk
Silk
Light Weight Woven
Batiste, Broadcloth, Calico, Challis,
Polyester, Cotton, S 9/65, 11/70
Chambray, Crepe, Eyelet, Gingham,
and Silk
Lawn,
Handkerchief Linen, Microfiber-
Peachskin,
Rayon, Ripstop Nylon, Satin, Muslin, and
Silk
Medium Weight Woven
Broadcloth, Cotton, Calico, Chino,
Polyester, Cotton, S, J, U 80/12,
Challis,
and Silk
Denim, Felt, Flannel, Muslin, Linen- 90/14
Linen
types, Poplin, Rayon, Satin, Twill, Raw
Silk
Heavy Weight Woven
Canvas, Cotton Duck, Denim, Coat
Polyester, Cotton J, U 90/14,
Fabric,
Drapery Fabric, Fake Fur, Sail Cloth, 100/16
Tapestry, Upholstery, and Wool-Wool
Blends
Light-Medium Weight Knits
Cotton Knits & Blends, Jersey Knits,
Polyester B, ST 80/12,
Tricot, Lycra & Swimwear Fabric,

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Spandex, Stretch Velour & Stretch Velvet 90/14

Medium- Heavy Weight Knits

Double Knits, Stretch Terry, Stretch
Polyester B, ST 80/12,
Velour, Stretch Velvet, Sweater Knits,
Sweatshirt Fabric, and Spandex 90/14

Non-Woven Fabrics
Leather, Synthetic Leather, Genuine-
Polyester L, U 80/12,
Synthetic Suede, Plastic, and Vinyl
90/14

S = Sharp J = Jeans Sharp B = Ball Point

ST = Stretch L = Leather B = Ball Point

U = Universal E = Embroidery MT = Metalfil/Metallica

BOBBIN AND BOBBIN CASE

BOBBIN

A bobbin is a spindle or cylinder, with or without flanges, on which wire, yarn, thread
or film is wound. Bobbins are typically found in sewing machines, cameras. The piece of
your sewing machine that holds the bottom threads (the bobbin thread) and is placed in the
bobbing case. It generally is under the area the needle penetrates and it loops with the needle
threads to form a locked stitch.

BOBBIN CASE

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It holds the bobbin in position which provides the lower thread and it rotates with the
shuttle hook.

Types of Bobbin Case:

 Removable bobbin case

 Built in bobbin case
1. Removable Bobbin Case is used in a single needle machine and can be removed from
the machine.
2. Built in Bobbin Case is attached with the machine and cannot be removed.
BOBBING WINDING

For most machines, the thread must be taken out of the needle in order to wind the
bobbin. There is normally a bobbin holder on top of the machine. The thread runs from the
spool through a sequence of hooks etc. that are specific to the type of machine and on to the
spool. The needle is disengaged when the bobbin in winding.

This is done automatically (when the bobbin is in position for winding) or manually,
depending on the machine. After the bobbin is wound, the machine is re-threaded, the needle
is engaged and the bobbin is placed in its area under a throat plate.

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If bobbin is not wound smoothly and evenly there will be an uneven run of thread
from the shuttle, which will undoubtedly result in uneven stitching.

LOOP AND LOOP SPREADER

It is a dull pointed metal piece which has a definite motion cycle to grasp the thread
from the needle and helps to form a loop of stitches.

Types of Loopers:

There are two main types of Loopers based on its shape.

 Eye loopers
 Blind Loopers
1. Eye Loopers:

Eye Loopers is used for the machine that has bobbin and bobbin case and used mainly
for class 400, class 600 and for all class 500 stitches other than class 501. These types of
loopers are carrying the sewing thread through the eye. The two important functions are

 To grasp the thread from the needle

 To interlock the bobbin thread with the needle thread.
2. Blind Looper:

Blind Loopers only do the function of grasping the thread from the needle. It is used
for sewing machine without bobbin and bobbin case. Mainly it is used in class 100, 101,
102 and some class 500. These types of loopers are not carrying the threads because of no
eye, but it guides the thread.

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Based on the loopers function it can classify into two types

 Oscillating loopers
 Rotating loopers
LOOP SPREADER

Loop Spreader is snub massed or dull pointed metal piece which assist the looper in
making the stitches. Some blind loopers also have loop spreader. These blind loopers have
two dull pointed, the point which grabs the needle thread from the needle is the looper point.
The other point which spreads the needle thread loop, which the loop spreader pointed.

The action of the loop spreader is coordinate with the loopers. Some machine has
multi edged loop spreaders which coordinate with more than one loopers. Some loop spreader
is fixed readily, there looper mechanism and parallel to looper action. It is used to form the
stitch classes of 400, 500 and 600 stitches.

THREAD FINGER

Thread fingers function in the position of needle above the presser foot shoe. It is a
metal link with an eye. These fingers may be static or dynamic. In static links guide the
covering thread, where as the dynamic links carry thread back and forth across the needle
path. It is used to form a 600 class stitches.

THREADING

Thread fingers hooks are assist the finger in interlacing its thread between or among
the thread of two or more needles in the machine. The action of the thread fingers hooks are
synchronized with the thread fingers and needle. Most of the thread fingers mechanisms are
located in the upper arm of the machine which holds the needle mechanism.

UPPER THREADING

Machines vary as to how too exactly they are threaded, but all have certain common
features. The thread runs from the spool holder, through a tension device and down through
the needle. The tension device controls the tension on the thread. It consists of a groove that
the thread slides through. The mechanism for setting the tension may be a dial or buttons
(computerized machines).

With the machine on the left, below, the thread runs from the spool to the hook at the
top of the tension area, down the right groove and up the left groove, over a little hook and

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down the left groove again, and on to the needle. The dial is turned to set the tension. With
the machine on the right below, the thread runs from the spool to a hook at the top of the
tension area, down and up the left groove and down the right groove to the needle.

The thread runs from the tension device, down to the needle area. There are usually
small grooves in the arm that holds the needle, for the thread to pass through. This holds the
thread close to the needle arm. The thread then runs down to and through the eye of the
needle.

LOWER THREADING

Once the bobbin is in place and the machine is threaded, gently turn the wheel of the
machine while holding the needle thread off to the side (it should go from the needle under
the presser foot and off to the side).

This will bring down the needle. The needle will pass down through the throat plate
and the needle thread will catch the bobbin thread and pull it up through the throat plate when
it comes back up again.

AUXILIARY HOOKS

BUTTON LOOPS
(Figure.36): Instead of buttonholes, loops may be used to fasten buttons. These may be made
of thread or cloth.

Thread loops (Fig.36a): The thread loops is an inconspicuous fastening which is most often
found at the neck edge of collars. To make a thread loop, sew four or five strands of
matching thread on the under lap in the correct position (A in Fig.36a), then work button
holes stitches over these strands (B in Fig. 36a).

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Fabric loops (Fig.36b-f):

These are made of strip of bias fabric stitched and turned inside out to form a narrow
tube. The fabric used may be of self-material or harmonizing material. This type of fastening
adds a decorative trim to children’s and women’s garments. Construction of a cloth loop
proceeds through the following steps:

1) Cut a strip of bias fabric about 1 inch wide. Fold in half lengthwise, right sides
together, and stitch about 1/8 inch from the folded edge down the length of the strip
(Fig.36b). Trim seam allowances to 1/8 inch.
2) Attach a strong thread to one end of tube at the seam. Turn the tube inside out by
drawing the thread right through the tubing with a heavy needle (Fig.36b,c).
3) Cut the tube into lengths equal to the finished length of the loop plus seam allowance.
4) Place these pieces on the right side of the overlap, shaped as loops turned away from
the edge of the opening (Fig.36d).
5) Tack the facing right side down over loop and machine along seam line.
6) Turn facing to wrong side and tack in position. Loops will be now extending from
placket edge (Fig.36e).
Button matching to the fabric loops are fixed on the under lap. Fig 36f shows the
button and loop fastened.

Corded loops:

These are made the same way as ordinary cloth loops except that a cording is placed
inside the bias strip.
Corded frogs (Fig.36g): These are very decorative and can be made in varied designs.
Button loop of the frog should be long enough to slip over button smoothly.

BUTTONS
(Figure 37): Button should be selected to suit the colour, design and texture of the fabric and
the style of the garment. There are two types of buttons: Buttons with holes (Fig.37b) and
shank type buttons (Fig.7g). The latter are attached to the garment from the underside.

Button may be made of fabric, bone, glass, metal plastic etc. On dresses buttons
covered with self-fabric may be used. If you provide scraps of fabric to well establish tailors,
they get the buttons covered by a special machine. Covering may be done by hand also.

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Marking position of buttons (Fig.37a):

To mark position for buttons, place overlap over the under lap so that the centre front
lines coincide. If the buttonholes are horizontal insert a pin through the button hole about 1/8
inch from the end which is near the centre front (see buttonholes A in Fig.37a). For vertical
buttonhole put the pin through the middle of the buttonhole (B in Fig.37a), lift overlap and
mark position of button on the pin mark.

Sewing button with holes (Fig.37b,c):

Sew this type of button using double thread bringing the needle up and down through
the holes in the buttons with a pin kept over the button (Fig.37b.) After working enough
stitches, remove the pin, lift the button and form a shank by winding the thread tightly around
the strands about six times. Now fasten the thread on the wrong side (Fig.37c). Buttons with
four holes may be sewn in the shape of a cross, two parallel lines a square or an arrow head
(Fig.37b,d,e,f).

Sewing shank buttons (Fig.37g):

Bring needle through fabric and shank and then back through fabric. Stitch through
fabric and shank until button is secure. Fasten thread on underside.

Link buttons (Fig.37h):

These are used as links for cuffs or for the front of a coat or a jacket. There should be
two buttonholes, one on each side of the placket opening. To make the ink, hold two buttons
the desired distance apart and connect the buttons together with strands of thread. Work
buttonhole stitches across the strands and fasten the thread.

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OTHER TYPES OF FASTENERS

Snaps or press buttons (Fig.38a):

These are used to hold edges that will not have much strain when the garment is worn.
They will open out if used on snug fitting parts. These are available in various sizes and
weights. They are available in various sizes and weights. They are either black or silver. This
fastener has two sections. One section has a knob and the other has a socket. You must place
the part with the knob (A in Fig.38a) on the wrong side of the overlap close to the edge and
must take care to see that the stitches that fasten the button to the overlap do not show on the
right side of the garment.

After the knob parts are sewn to the garment, match the two sides of the garment that
will be held together by the buttons. Press the knob side against the fabric on the other side so
that it makes a slight impression. Make a tiny stitch on the fabric where the impression is
formed. Place the socket side of the snap (B in Fig.38a) centered over this stitch. To fix both
parts of the buttons four to five button hole stitches should be worked through each hole.
While passing from one hole to another carry three thread by passing the needle under the
button. After stitching through all the holes, thread should be fastened securely on the wrong
side.

Hooks and eyes (Fig.38b-d):

These are used on plackets where there is crosswise strain. They form an
inconspicuous closing. They should be placed close to each other without much space in
between to prevent the opening from gaping. The hook should be placed 1/8 inch inside the
finished edge of the overlap on the wrong side (Fig.38b,c). Work buttonhole stitches or over
casting stitches around the rings of the hooks. Then slip the needle through the fabric and
bring it out near the hook end. Take several back stitches across and under the loop of the
hook to hold it down firmly. Fasten off with small back stitches. The stitches should not show
on the right side.

The eyes may be of metal or worked with thread. Thread eyes (Fig.38b) are used on
blouses and dresses made of fine fabrics. They can be made to match the colour of the
garment so as to be inconspicuous. To find the exact position for stitching this eye, lap the
edge with hook over the under lap in proper position and mark the end of the hook with a pin.
At this position work a few back stitches long enough for the hook to pass and then work
buttonhole stitches over these threads. Fasten the thread firmly on wrong side.

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Metal eyes come in two types. The straight eye is used of overlapping edges
(Fig.38c), and the round eye for edges that meet each other (Fig.38d). The straight eye is
positioned the same way as the thread eye, but the round eye is placed on the wrong side of
the under lap and must extend 1/8 inch beyond the edge of the under lap. To fix metal eyes,
work buttonhole stitches around their rings.

Eyelets and cord:

Eyelets are mainly used for lacing front openings decoratively (Fig.38f). To make an
eyelet cut a circular hole and work buttonhole stitches around the edge (Fig.38e)

THROAT PLATE

The throat plate (also called needle plate) covers the area that holds the bobbin. It has
an opening for the needle to pass through, as well as lines that serve as sewing guides. The
needle may be a single hole, used for straight stitching, or an oblong hole, which allows the
needle to make stitches that have width (such as zigzag stitches).

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Be careful when using a straight stitch throat plate. If you accidentally change to a
zigzag (or other stitch that has a width) while the straight stitch throat plate is in place, you
will break your needle. A straight stitch throat plate is the best one to use, however, when
making a straight stitch (regular sewing stitch). It helps prevent the fabric from being pulled
down into the machine (having a needle that is sharp enough helps prevents this also,
although you must use a ball point needles for knits.

TAKE-UP:

Take-up lever: At the outside of this lever, there is a small hole through which the
thread passes. The lever moves down to loosen the top thread while the stitch is being
formed; then it moves up and pulls the loop of thread tight to complete the stitch.

SETTING PROPER TENSION

Tension refers to the force that is applied by the machine on your thread. You can also
effect tension by the amount of pull or push you apply to the fabric as you feed it through
under the needle-you should not apply force. Instead, just your hands to guide the fabric
through. Let the feed dogs actually feed the fabric through.

Perfectly Locked Stitch

There are two areas in which you can adjust tension. The upper thread (needle thread-
coming from the spool) and the bobbin thread each have tension.

NEEDLE THREAD TENSION

This is the most likely place to find a problem. Generally the tension ranges from low
to high in number, with high being the tightest.

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Upper Tension Too Tight

BOBBIN TENSION

With some machine, a screw is present which control the bobbin tension. Usually, the
bobbin does not need to be adjusted and some machine doesn’t even allow you to do this. In
all of my time sewing I have never adjusted bobbin tension

Too little tension can cause weak seems, which can be pull apart easily. Adjust to a
higher tension. Too much tension causes a seam that is too tight and causes your fabric to
pucker. Adjust to a lower tension.

When both threads have an even amount of tension, a smooth, “balanced” stitch is
produced. The needle and bobbin threads are locked between the two layers of fabrics with
no loops on top or bottom and no puckers.

Upper Tension Too Loose

The relationship between the lower thread tension and upper thread tension, in
combination with the thickness of the fabric being sewn, affect the appearance (and
effectiveness) of the stitching. Since bobbin thread tension cannot be changed on the fly, and
you are presumably using your fabric for a reason the upper thread tension is one to adjust.

If you suspect your upper thread tension is wrong, make a sample line of stitching
through all the thicknesses you intend to sew. Look at the stitches you have produced.

 If stitching on the top of the fabric look normal (like a dashed line), but the under
side has a bunch of little loops with the bobbin thread running through them, your top
thread is too loose. Increase your thread tension. Note, however, that this ideal
adjustment for gathering fabrics.
 If the top of the fabric shows little loops, decrease your thread tension.
 If both sides show normal stitching, then you’ve got the right thread.
TYPE OF TENSION DEVICE

1. direct
2. indirect
3. auxiliary
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 DIRECT
It has two canvas disc, tension spring and tension screw to provide
tension to thread.

 INDIRECT
These are cylindrical and conical in shape with a hook which is placed over the tension
disc to provide extra tension.

 AUXILIARY
These are placed somewhere between the actual tension disc and needle to
provide extra tension to the thread.

STITCH LENGTH AND WIDTH

Stitch length refers to how long each individual stitch is

 Regular 11to12 stitches per inch

 Basting 6 stitches per inch(i.e a longer stitch so fewer per inch)
 Gathering 6to 8 stitches per inch
Generally heavier fabrics work best with a longer stitch length, and finer fabrics are
best with a shorter stitch length. Proper stitch length is important and is a first place to
start if you do not like the look of your stitching.

For e.g. a slightly puckered seam in the fine fabric could be caused from too long of a
stitch length- the feed dogs are feeding too much fabric through each stitch, making a
puckered look. To correct this shorter stitch length should be used (also check tension
more on this later). Remember that the higher number of stitches per inch translate to a
short, tighter stitch.

Stitch width refers to how wide the stitch is. A regular straight stitch has no width,
but a zigzag or decorative stitch can be set to any number of widths.

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THREAD TAKE UP

After the bobbin hook contact the needle thread, the thread is pulled up in order to
make the stitch tight and this action is done by the take up lever. It also help bobbin hooks
to receive the thread freely and quickly.

TYPES OF TAKE UP LEVERS

 Oscillating levers
 Rotating levers
1. Oscillating levers
It is used in a single needle machine and the gap will be one inch for
oscillating of take up lever.

2. Rotating levers
This type lever which rotates to provide the thread looser and tighter.

STITCHING AUXILIARY

Stitching auxiliaries are not carrying the thread but it helps the formation of perfect
stitches. There are three types of stitching auxiliaries available.

Knife: It trims the edges of the fabric before sewing and it can be found in over lock
machines.

Positioner: Before stitching the materials are positioned by this type of positioner.

Piercing: It pierce the fabric before stitching and it is used in the button hole machine to
form a button hole.

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PRESSER FOOT

The presser feet can be raised and lowered with a small lever at the back of, or beside,
the needle. When up, it allows free movement of the fabric. When down, it presses the cloth
against a base plate. The base plate has a couple of textured moving parts (the feed dogs) that
keep the material moving past the needle at an even rate. (You can sew with the presser foot
up, but you tend to get very uneven stitches. This is because you have to move the fabric
yourself, and keeping it moving at an even rate is almost impossible.)

Presser feet hold down the fabric and help guide it through. They also serve various
special functions. Ex. Of special feet are the rolled hem foot, it causes the fabric to roll, and
the appliqué foot, which has an opening in the back to allow the bulk of the satin stitch to
pass through. Other special feet that are commonly used the zipper foot and button hole foot.
Knowing what types are available, and when to use them, can make all the differences in the
quality of your work. These special feet also take a lot of the frustration out of sewing.

Special sewing functions can be performed using other specialty feet such as appliqué
foot, bais under, pin tuck feet, felling foot, cording foot, special hemmers and many more.

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FEEDING MECHANISM

In a sewing machine, feed dogs are the feeder mechanism which is typically used to
pull fabric through a sewing mechanism.

A set of feed dogs typically resembles two or three short, thin metal bars, crosscut
with diagonal furrows, which move back and forth in grooves slightly larger than the bars.
The type of motion used (forward, then down, then backwards, then up)serves to pull the
fabric through, since the “dogs” are in contact with the material on the forward stroke, and
are pulled down below the main plate on the backward stroke by the sewing machine’s
mechanism. The result is that, between stitches, the fabric is pulled along in discrete steps.

Most sewing machines using feed dogs can fabric forwards or backwards at various
stitch length; this is controlled by a stitch lever on the front of the machine.

TYPES OF FEED MECHANISM

Based on the end use and application the feed mechanism can be classified in the
following types.

 Manual feed or free motion or freehand or daring feed

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 Drop feed
 Differential feed
 Needle feed
 Compound feed
 Unison feed
 Puller, roller feed
 Cup feed
MANUAL FEED OR FREE MOTION OR DARNING FEED

 Operator moves work under needle, freehand motion.

 Machine may have a vertical motion foot that clamps the goods before the needle
enters the material, and releases to allow to manipulate the goods between each stitch.
 Darning, embroidery, freehand, quilting, etc.
DROP FEED

Drop feed utilizes a feeder below the plate that rises up through the plate, compresses
the fabric against the presser foot to advance the fabric one stitch, and then drops below the
plate to return to the original position.

 Incorporates a feed dog.

 The most common feed system.
 Also called four-motion feed dog or four-motion drop feed.
DIFFERENTIAL FEED

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Differential feed utilizes a two piece feeder below the plate that rises up through the
plate, compresses the fabric against the presser foot and then advances the fabric. The front
(main) feeder and rear, feeder can be set to move the same or different distances. When the
rear feeder is to set to move faster than the front, the fabric is stretched. When the rear feeder
is set to move less than the front, the fabric is gathered (shirring).

NEEDLE FEED

Needle feed utilizes a feeder below the plate that rises up through the plate,
compresses the fabric against the presser foot, in conjunction with the sewing needle which,
drops through the fabric, and then both move one stitch to advance the fabric. Then they
separate and return to the original position for the next stitch.

 Needles enters goods and remains in the goods while moving perpendicular to
the needles normal direction of travel, thereby feeding the goods, or assisting
in feeding the goods.
 Can assist in preventing upper, middle, and lower layers of material from
slipping in relation to each other.
 Does not necessarily require pressure against the planar surfaces of the
material to feed, and can be used where material should not be marked by the
action of a feed dog and/or upper feed.
 Is often used in conjunction with drop feed and/or with upper feed
It has three types.

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i) Upper Pivot Needle Feed

ii) Central Pivot Needle Feed
iii) Parallel Drive Needle Feed
COMPOUND FEED

A combination of synchronized drop feed and needle feed. Feeding occurs whilst the
needle is still in the material by combined motion of needle bar and feed dog. Compound
feed utilizes a feeder below the plate that rises up through the plate, compresses the fabric
against the presser foot and in conjunction with a feeder above the plate which both pinch the
fabric and both move one stitch to advance the fabric together

1. Upper and lower feed

o A combination of any upper feed system and a feed dog or drop feed.
o The term “walking foot” is often used to mean a vibrating presser foot in combination
with compound feed, or in conjunction with a drop feed.
2. compound feed
o A combination of needle feed and drop feed.
o The term is often used erroneously to indicate any combination of feed systems.
UNISON FEED

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Unison feed combines needle feed with compound feed. The needle penetrates the
fabric, the top and bottom feed dogs compress on the fabric and they all advance the fabric
one stitch, all release as the presser foot drops to hold the fabric, and all return for the next
stitch.

o This term is used in two different ways.

o One usage of this term is its application to any of two or more feed systems working
in combination
o A second usage of this term is to describe the uncommon feed system of a vibrating
presser foot or alternating presser feet, along with needle feed, and a drop feed or feed
dog, working in combination, but operating from a one-piece frame.
o The frame extends from the presser foot/needle feed mechanism, through the machine
casting, to the drop feed/ feed dog. This is the only system, when in good repair,
where it is impossible for the upper and lower feed mechanisms to become out of
synchronization.
o All other feed systems are synchronized by linkage or by electronic control.
PULLER, ROLLER FEED

Wheel feed utilizes a roller that advances the fabric one stitch length at a time, in a
ratcheting motion. The presser foot has small rollers to permit easy movement. Wheel feed is
used when the material being sewn would be damaged by tooth feeders. Examples are Vinyl
plastic and some leather products.

 A rotary wheel with a movement in the direction of feed.

 Incorporates a friction surface or clamping surface that feeds or assists in feeding the
goods.
 Has either an intermittent motion or a continuous motion.
 Continuous motion wheel feed must work in unison with a needle feed.

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Upper and lower feed

 Wheel feed system where an upper and lower wheel is both driven.
 The material is fed between the wheels.
 There is positive feeding pressures both the top and bottom of the material at the same
time.

CUP FEED

Cup feed utilizes one or two cup shaped wheels that pinch the edge of the material,
permitting the needle to sew across the edge of the material. Often called a “fur machine”, as
this machine is ideal for sewing the narrow strips together to create a fur coat.

Cup feed

POINTS TO REMEMBER

 The needles commonly used in dress making are called sharps.

 In your sewing basket you should keep a supply of sharps nos. 5, 6,7,8,9 and 10.For
very heavy work use nos. 5 and 6 with threads 20 to 40. Use needles 7 and 8 for
threads nos. 60 to 90 and needles 9 and 10 for threads nos. 100 to 150.
 To produce a hole in the material for the thread to pass through and to do so without
causing any damage to the material.
 To carry the needle thread through the material and there form a loop which can be
picked up by the hook on the bobbin case in a lock stitch machine or by the looper or
other mechanism in machine.
 To pass the needle thread through the loop formed by the lopper mechanism on the
machines other than lock stitch.

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 The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle is called the shank. This part of the
needle is inserted in the machine.
 Home sewing machine needles are composed of a flat and a round side, to assist in
always having the needle in the correct position.
 Always refer to your sewing machine manual for the correct way to insert the needle
in your machine.
 Industrial machine needles have a completely round shaft and the groove is used to
know which direction to put a new needle in the machine
 For most machines, the thread must be taken out of the needle in order to wind the
bobbin.
 There is normally a bobbin holder on top of the machine.
 The thread runs from the spool through a sequence of hooks etc. that are specific to
the type of machine and on to the spool.
 The needle is disengaged when the bobbin in winding.
 This is done automatically (when the bobbin is in position for winding) or manually,
depending on the machine.
 After the bobbin is wound, the machine is re-threaded, the needle is engaged and the
bobbin is placed in its area under a throat plate.
SUGGESTED QUESTIONS

SECTION-A

1. eye of the needle carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches.
2. Knife trims the edges of the fabric before sewing and it can be found in over lock
machines.
3. Removable Bobbin Case is used in a single needle machine and can be removed from
the machine.
4. The needles commonly used in dress making are called sharps.
5. A rotary wheel with a movement in the direction of feed.
SECTION-B
6. Write about -stitching auxiliaries.
7. Write about -pressure foot and its types.
8. Write a short note on -Feed mechanisms.
9. Write about compound feed.
10. Write about bobbin tension.
SECTION-C
11. Explain briefly about -Stitching mechanism.

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12. Explain - Needles, bobbin and bobbin case with neat digrame.
13. Discribe loops and loop Spreader.
14. Elabrate threading finger, upper and lower threading.
15. Differenciate upper and lower thread tension.

Unit II: Cutting and Spreading Methods

Spreading - Types of spread and its quality, parts and functions of spreading equipment,
spreading methods. Cutting equipment – Parts and functions of Straight knife cutting
machine, rotary cutting machine, band knife cutting machine, die cutters.

SPREADING

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the fabric type, spreading
equipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the firm’s quality standards. Spreading
requires a flat, smooth surface. If the spreading surface doubles as a cutting surface, it also
must be level. Spreading and cutting may be done on the same surface, but automated cutting
often requires spreading and cutting to be done in adjacent but separate locations.

Spreading and cutting surfaces are available in standard widths that correspond to
fabric width. Narrow fabric can be spread on a wider table. A spreading surface needs to be
about 10 inches wider than the fabric. Spreading tables may have tracks or rails placed along
one or both sides of a tabletop or just a few inches off the floor. This track helps guide and
control the spreader as it moves up and down the length of the table. With some types of
equipment, the table tracks are geared to synchronize the movement of the spreading machine
with fabric unrolling, in order to regulate tension.

Spreading tables may also be very specialized for certain types of fabric and cutting
equipment. Pin tables have rows of pins located below the surface that can be extended
through slats to hold fabric in a precise location for accurate matching of pattern repeats.
Vacuum tables are used to compress lay-up and prevent shifting or movement during cutting.
A spread is covered with a plastic film that forms a seal over the lay-up when a vacuum is
applied. A lay-up of quilted fabric can be compressed as much as 75 percent when the

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vacuum is used. This allows more plies in the lay-up and restricts the movement of slippery
fabrics for more accurate cutting.

Cutting equipment may be moved to a lay-up as another lay-up is prepared further

down the table, or fabric can be spread on one surface and then transferred to the cutting
surface. Air flotation tables, when activated; allow easy movement of a lay-up onto an
adjacent cutting area. A layer of air between the table surface and the bottom layer of paper
reduces friction and allows a lay-up to be moved easily without putting stress on the fabric or
the operators. Spreading tables with conveyor zed surfaces carry the fabric to the cutting
machine so that no time is wasted. Ideally one lay-up can be cut while is being spread.
Conveyors may be used with computerized cutting systems, large die presses, and laser
cutters.

The objective of spreading is to place the number of plies of fabric that the production
planning process has dictated, to the length of the marker plan, in the colours required,
correctly aligned as to length and width, and without tension. There are number of prices to
be paid for this saving in the time and cost of cutting and the cost of materials.

First, the spreading of multi-size lays of many plies demands strongly constructed
tables, usually with steel legs and braced frames, a heavy laminated, smooth wood top, and
sometimes centre legs. A 10 meter lay of shirting fabric with 200 plies can weigh up to 6000
kg and with 150 cm wide fabric can exert a downward pressure of up to approximately 40kg
per square meter on the table surface. The table may also bear the weight of a spreading
machine, traveling on steel rails at the edge of the table. The type of table surface is critical
for the spreading and cutting operations.

Second, spreading is itself a time-consuming operation. With the highest lays it can
consume more time in total than cutting, especially if the cutting is by computer-controlled
knife. Just as with the marking and cutting operations, the efforts of engineers have
sophisticated equipment designed to reduce spreading time and make the operation more
automatic.

A study of spreading must include the following considerations:

1. The requirements of the spreading process.

2. Methods of spreading

3. The nature of fabric packages.

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FABRIC SPREADING:

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on
top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong
sides of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is
obtained from the cut order plan.

Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine

2. Volume of production
3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery)
4. Thickness of fabric
TYPES OF FABRIC SPREADING:

The spreads can be of two basic types:

1. Flat spreads- all plies are of the same length.
2. Stepped spreads- this as the name suggests, is built up in steps, with all the plies in one
step having the same length. A stepped spread is generally used when the quantities to be cut
precludes the use of a flat spread. The cut order plan details the colors and ply lengths for a
stepped spread, if it is needed.

TYPES OF SPREAD AND ITS QUALITY:

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must
be at least equal to marker length and width.
2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be
tagged and will be avoided.
3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics) - all faces up, all
faces down, face to face etc.
4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible.
5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets is used under the
bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife.
6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defects in
garments due to variation in dimension.

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7. Checks and stripes should be matched.

AUTOMATIC PROGRAMMABLE SPREADING MACHINES:

All the requirements of spreading process can be fulfilled by fully automatic spreading
machines. Their features include:

1. Automatic loading/unloading and threading/rewinding device for fabric rolls.

2. Automatic roll turning arrangement for face to back lay.
3. Automatic leveling device for fabric edge alignment.
4. Automatic cutting device (one way or two way cutoff) at the end of a run.
5. Automatic tensioning device to control fabric tension.
6. Automatic lay height sensing elevator.
7. Programmable lay length, ply height and step-laying.
8. Spreading seeds up to 140 m/min.

SPREADING REQUIREMENTS AND TOOLS USED FOR SPRESDING

Spreading must achieve a number of specific objectives:

1. Shade sorting of cloth pieces

Lays commonly require more than one roll of cloth and lays which include several
colours normally require more than one roll of each colour to achieve enough plies in total. It
is likely that cloth pieces that are nominally the same colour will have been dyed separately
and are not an exact shade match.

A garment made from parts cut from these different pieces would be likely to show a
shaded effect between its different panels. Thus when deliveries of a number of rolls of cloth
of the same colour are received, they should be sorted into batches such that shade
differences between them are undetectable.

2. Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability

These two factors must be considered together as the opportunities for achieving them
are related. They depend on fabric type, pattern shape and the spreading equipment that is
available.

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Methods if spreading which lay alternate plies in different directions can only are used for
either way fabrics. In this case the pattern pieces can face in either direction in the marker and
the following opportunities are available:

a) For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is suitable spread face to face, the
fabric can be spread along face up immediately back again face down.
b) For symmetrical as well as asymmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is stable
spread all the same way up, the fabric can be spread along and immediately back
again but the roll must be turned on a turntable before returning.
c) For asymmetrical as well as symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is stable all
the same way up, the spreader spreads in one direction only and ‘dead heads’ back to
spread the next ply in the same direction.

d) For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is stable face to face, the spreader
spreads in one direction only but after ‘dead heading’ back, a turntable is required to
rotate the roll before the next ply is spread in the same direction.
3) Alignment of plies:

Every ply should compromise at least the length and width of the marker plan, but
should have the minimum possible extra outside those measurements.

4) Correct ply tension:

If the plies are spread with too slack a tension they will lie in ridges with irregular
fullness. If plies are spread in a stretched state they will maintain their tension while held
in the lay, but will contract after cutting or during sewing, thus shrinking the garment
parts to a smaller size than the pattern pieces. In a non-stretch fabric practically all
elongation of the fabric occurs in such a manner that rapid relaxation and recovery
ensures.

5) Elimination of fabric faults:

Fabric faults (flows, holes, stains, etc.,) may be identified by the fabric supplier, and
additional faults may be detected during examination of the fabric by the garment
manufacturer prior to spreading.

6) Elimination of static electricity:

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In spreading plies of fabric containing man-made fibers, friction may increase the
charge of static electricity in the fabric. Friction may be reduced by changing the method
of threading the fabric through the guide bars of the spreading machine. Humidity in the
atmosphere of the cutting room may also be increased, thus allowing the static electricity
to discharge continuously through the atmosphere.

7) Avoidance of distortion in the spread

A layer of glazed paper, laid glazed side down, is normally placed at the bottom of the
spread. This helps to avoid disturbing the lowest plies of material in the spread when the
base plate of a straight knife passes underneath, and also gives stability to the lay if it is to
be moved on a floatation table. In addition, it prevents snagging of the fabric on the table
surface which often becomes roughened with use.

8) Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting:

Cut edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics may fuse together during cutting if the cutting
knife becomes hot as a result of friction with the fabric. In this case, anti-fusion paper
may be used in the same way as interleaving paper. It contains a lubricant which
lubricates the knife blade as it passes through the spread, thus reducing the increase in
temperature of the blade arising from friction.

SPREADING METHODS:

The methods of spreading which the industry uses can be divided into:

1. Spreading by hand
2. Spreading using a traveling machine
Classified by application

 Semi automatic
 Fully automatic
SPREADING BY HAND:

It is time consuming method, requiring an operator at each side of the table. The
fabric is drawn from its package which, if it is a roll, may be supported on a frame, and
carried along the table where the end is secured by weights or a clamp. The operators work
back from the end, aligning the edges and ensuring that there is no tension and no wrinkles.

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The ply is normally cut with hand shears or with a powered circular knife mounted on
a frame, though a few fabrics are ripped at the end of the ply to discover the exact weft grain
and enable some straightening of a slightly crooked fabric to take place.

Typical fabrics which must be spread by hand are checks, crosswise strips and other
regularly repeating patterns, as well as those with a repeating design at intervals of a
permanent length. If accurate ‘stacking up’ of the design vertically through the spread is
necessary, the fabric may be ‘spiked’ on to a series of sharp spikes set vertically on the
spreading table.

SPREADING USING A TRAVELLING MACHINE:

Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to end of the spread,
dispensing one ply at a time onto the spread. Their basic elements consist of a frame or
carriage, wheels traveling in guide rails at the edge of the table, a fabric support, and guide
collars to aid the correct unrolling of the fabric. In the simpler versions, the operator clamps
the free end of fabric in line with the end of the spread, pushes the spreader to the other end,
cuts off the ply in line with that end, clamps the beginning of the next ply, pushes the
spreader to the other end and so on.

More advanced spreading machines may include a motor to drive the carriage, a
platform on which the operator rides, a ply-cutting device with automatic catcher to hold the
ends of the ply in place, a ply counter, an alignment shifter actuated by photo electric edge
guides, a turntable and a direct drive on the fabric support, synchronized with the speed of
travel, to reduce or eliminate tension in the fabric being spread.

The advent of microprocessor control has enabled the development of more automatic
functions on spreading machines. Thus a spreader can be pre-set to a selected number of
plies, emitting an audible signal when it has reached the selected number or has come to the

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end of piece of fabric. Automatic turn tabling gives automatic spreading even for corduroys
which are normally spread face to face. With robotic spreading, when the piece is finished the
spreader returns to an auto-lifter at the end of the table, transfers the empty centre bar to the
lifter which then advances the next piece to the spreader. It repeats the process until it
achieves the required number of plies. This method requires automatic sensing of previously
marked flaws and damages.

CUTTING

The use of the term cutting can present a difficulty. It is used in the sense of
‘cutting room’, an area which normally includes the activities of marker planning,
spreading and preparation for sewing, as well as being used to refer to actual cutting of
garment parts from the lay.

DEFINITION

1. something cut or cut off or out: as a : a plant section originating from stem, leaf, or
root and capable of developing into a new plant b : harvest

2. something made by cutting; especially :

FUNCTIONS OF CUTTING

1. Precision of cut

Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body
correctly, if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape. The ease with
which accuracy is achieved depends on the method of cutting employed and in some
cases on the marker planning and marker making.
In manual cutting using a knife, accuracy of cut, given good line definition,
depends on appropriate, well maintained cutting knives and on the skill and
motivation of the cutter. In both the cutting and computer- controlled cutting, the
achievement of accuracy comes for the equipment.
2. Clean edges

The raw edge of the fabric should not show fraying or snagging. Such defects
come from an imperfectly sharpened knife.
3. Un scorched, un fused edges

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The build -up of heart in the knife blade comes from the friction of the blade
passing through the fabric. This, in extreme cases, leads to scorching of the fabric and
more frequently, to the fusing of the raw edges of thermoplastic fiber fabrics, such as
those containing polyamide or polyester. The cutter cannot separate individual plies
from the pile of cut parts. Forced separation causes snagged edges, and on any case,
the hard edge is uncomfortable in wear. Solutions to this problem lie in a well-
sharpened blade, a blade with a wavy edge, the use of anti- fusion paper during
spreading, spraying the blade and reducing the height of the lay.
4. Support of the lay

The cutting system must provide the means not only to support the fabric but
also to allow the blade to penetrate the lower ply of a spread and sever all the fibers.
5. Consistent cutting

The cutting system should not be limited in the height or plies it will cut,
because of progressive deterioration in cutting quality, though there may be
mechanical or human reasons, such as topping or leaning for the height of lay being
limited.

SPREADING AND CUTTING STAGE PROBLEM:

Effect Cause
Lack of Sufficient Operators are not allowing sufficient time for

fabric Relaxation relaxation

Too many no of plies Ply height was found to be more than 7”

during spreading
Excessive dragging Higher dragging tension maintained between

during spreading spreader roller to lay

Blunt knife edges Edges of knife are not sharp and it leads to

uneven shaping

THE REQUIREMENTS OF QUALITY IN CUTTING:

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a) For the majority of cutting situations where a knife blade is used, the placements of
the pattern pieces in the marker most give freedom of knife movement and not restrict
the path of the knife so that it leads to inaccurate cutting.
b) A blade, which has width, cannot turn a perfect right angle in the middle of a pattern
piece and space must always be allowed for a knife to turn such corners. Also, in
practice, a curved part of a pattern such a sleeve head, when placed abutting a straight
edge, or the crown of the curve being straightened. The amount of space which must
be left will depend on the actual cutting method employed.
c) Correct labeling of cut garment parts is essential if, in sorting and bundling a multi-
size lay after cutting, operators are to identify correctly the parts which make up the
whole garment sizes. It is the responsibility of the marker planner to code every
pattern piece with its size as the marker is planned.

CUTTING EQUIPMENTS AND TOOLS

Majority of cutting rooms today, the cutting process makes use of the hand shears, a
mechanized knife blade is one of the several possible types, or a die press which stamps out
the garment shapes.

1. Hand shears

2. Straight knife

3. Band knife

4. Round knife

5. Die cutters

6. Notches

7. Drills and thread marker

8. Computer control cutting knife

9. Laser cutting

10. Plasma cutting

11. Water jet cutting

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12. Ultrasonic cutting

HAND SHEARS

Hand shears is normally used when cutting only a single or double plies. The lower
blade of the shears passes under the plies, but the subsequent distortion of the fabric is only
temporary and accurate cutting to the line can be achieved with practice. Left- handed shears
are available since the cutting line will not easily be seen if right handed shears are used by a
left handed person. This method is flexible enough to accommodate any fabric construction
and pattern shape. The obvious disadvantage of any method lies in the time it consumes and
the consequent high labor cost per garment, but it appropriate for made- to- measure
garments.

1. Scissors
These have round handles and the blades are usually less than 6”. They are
designed mainly for snipping thread and trimming seams. However, scissors with 5”
blade can be used by beginners for cutting fabric as well. For embroidery and for
cutting button holes sharp pointed scissors with blades ½” to 1” long are useful. The
best types of scissors have blades of uneven width. They should be held so that the
wider blade is above the narrower blade.
2. Dress maker’s shears

For cutting fabric, shears are more satisfactory than scissors. Shears differ
from scissors in that they have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring
handle for the second, third and fourth fingers. They also have longer blades (6 to
12”). It is better to select bent-handled shears made of high quality steel and having
blades joined with a bolt or screw rather than a rivet. Take good care of your shears
and use them only when cutting the fabric. Do not drop them or leave them out to rest.
3. Pinking shears

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These are useful for finishing the edges of seams and other raw edges of
fabric. They produce a notched (zigzag) cutting line which prevents raveling of firmly
woven fabrics. Pinking gives neat appearance to the inside of the garment.
4. Button hole scissors

These can be adjusted so as to cut buttonholes in any size you require. They
are useful if you are an expert in tailoring and need to make many buttonholes.
VERTICAL RECIPROCITY / STRAIGHT KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

The straight knife cutting machine consists of a base plate, an upright stand to hold
the vertical blade, motor, a handle for moving assembly, a sharpening device and a handle to
transfer the whole assembly from one place to another.

Two kinds of power are required to operate a straight knife. Motor power drives the
reciprocating blade and operator power drives the knife through the lay. Normally the
available blade heights vary from 10 cm to 33 cm and normally available strokes vary from
2.5 to 4.5 cm. the greater the blade movement the faster the blade cuts the fabric and more
easily the operator can move the machine.

The most important consideration is selecting a straight knife is the power required
from the operator to move the knife through the lay. Operator effort is affected by the weight
of the motor, the shape of the stand, handle height, stroke, sharpness of blade and the base
plate movement.

The normal blade has a straight edge that varies from coarse to fine depending upon
the type of fabric being cut. Wavy edged knifes are used to reduce the heat generation and
hence can be used for cutting synthetic materials without fusing difficulties. The speed of the
blades can also be adjusted by having variable speed mechanism.

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The straight knife is a common means of cutting lays in conventional cutting rooms
because it is versatile, portable than a band knife and easy to maintain. Even if a band knife is
used for main cutting operation, a straight knife will be used to separate the lay into sections
for easier handling.

ROTARY CUTTER

A rotary cutter is a tool generally used by quilters to cut fabric. It consists of a

handle with a circular blade that rotates, thus the tool's name. Rotary cutter blades are very
sharp, can be re sharpened, and are available in different sizes: usually smaller blades are
used to cut small curves, while larger blades are used to cut to straight lines and broad curves.
Several layers of fabric can be cut simultaneously with a sharp (fresh) blade, making it easier
to cut out patchwork pieces of the same shape and size than with scissors. Quilters use rotary
cutters with specially designed templates and rulers made of approximately 1/8-inch thick
clear or color-tinted plastic.

The first rotary cutter was introduced by the Olfa company in 1979 for garment making;
however, it was quickly adopted by quilters. Prior to the invention of the rotary cutter,
quilters traced handmade templates of the necessary shapes onto the wrong side of fabric and
added 1/4-inch seam allowances all around. Templates were often handmade of (cereal box
type) cardboard and the pencil wore down the edges with repeated tracings, rendering them
inaccurate; new templates would be made several times until all the patchwork pieces were
cut. Pieces were usually cut one at a time with dressmaking scissors, which were often heavy
and had long blades that were designed for cutting large pieces for garments but were
cumbersome to use for cutting small pieces for patchwork. The rotary cutter gained almost
immediate widespread use among quilters after its introduction and, along with the
accompanying development of strip techniques, revolutionized quilting.

Today there are many companies making rotary cutters. Cutters come in a variety of handle
types and some include specialty blades to cut curved or zigzagged lines. Most have
retractable blades that can be locked to prevent injury.

BAND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

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A band knife comprises a series of three or more pulleys powered by an electric

motor. With a continuously rotating steel blade mounted on them, one edge of the blade is
sharpened. The principle of operation is different from a straight knife, in that the band knife
passes through a slot in the cutting table, in a fixed position and the section of lay to be cut is
moved past it.

The blade is usually narrower than on a straight knife. Band knives are used when a
higher standard or cutting accuracy is required that can be obtained with a straight knife.
Space must be left around garment parts when marking so that they can be cut from the lay
using a straight knife and then cut exactly using the band knife.

When small parts such as collars, cuffs and pockets are cut, a template of metal or
fiber board in the shape of the pattern piece may be clamped to the section of lay on top of
the marking which is then drawn past the band knife blade, cutting exactly along the hard
edge. Band knife cutting machines are used more in men’s wear than in women’s wear and
are often used to cut large garment parts such as the large panels of jackets and over coats.

ROUND KNIFE CUTTING MACHINE

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The elements of a round knife cutting machine are a base plate, above which is
mounted on electric motor, a handle for the cutter to direct the blade and a circular blade
rotating so that the leading edge cuts downwards into the fabric. Blade diameters vary from
6cm to 20cm. Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because the
blade does not strike all the plies simultaneously at the same point as vertical blade does.
Therefore a round knife is used only for straight lines or lower lays of relatively few plies. It
is naturally much more difficult for a circular blade to cut a tight curve, such as an arm hole.

DIE CUTTERS

In contrast to the fast moving blades used in the methods of cutting previously
described, die cutting involves pressing rigid blade through the lay of the fabric. The die
(called a clicker in the shoe industry) is a knife in the shape of a pattern periphery, including
notches. One or more tie bars secure its stability. Free standing dies generally fall into two
categories. They can be of strip steel, manufactured by bending the strip to the shape required
and welding the joint. These cannot be sharpened and must be replaced when worn.
Alternatively, they can be heavier gauge, forged dies which can be re- sharpened but which
are about five times the price of strip steel. The position of the tie bars determines the depth
of curt which is generally greater with forged dies.

Free standing dies cut the small parts of larger garments such as collars and trouser
pocketing or the parts of smaller garments such as bras. They can also be used for part of a
larger garment part, such as neck area, of a coat front. They provide a high standard of
accuracy of cutting but, because of the cost of the dies, they are only appropriate to situations
where large quantities of the same pattern shape will be cut. Die cutting also offers much
faster cutting than knife cutting for the same depth of cut. It is proportionally more economic
for small parts which have a great periphery in relation to their area than do large parts. In
addition, the level of accuracy demanded of small parts is not only greater but
correspondingly more difficult to achieve with conventional knives.
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The die press generally has a cutting arm supported by a single pillar at the back of
the machine; it swings to the side to allow the placing of dies on top of the fabric. The
downward cutting stroke of the press should be so controlled that the edge of the die just
penetrates the cutting pad or surface in order that the fibers of the lowest ply are completely
separated. Die presses are of two types: impact which makes a single press on the die, and,
more commonly, hytronic (hydraulic and electronic) which exerts continuous pressure on the
die until it has cut the fabric and made contact with the soft metal or nylon pad. Once the pad,
after repeated cutting, reaches an unsatisfactory state of wear, its surface is re-cut and re-
leveled.

For die cutting, the spreader spreads a lay to the required number of plies and may
place a marker on top to guide the placement of dies. The spread is cut into sections to allow
transport to the cutting pad. In some cases, no marker is used, the operator placing the dies by
eye to the correct grain line and as close together as this method allows.

One important disadvantage of die cutting is its greater use of fabric. When the die
press forces the die press forces the dies through the fabric it also forces a barrow wedge of
fabric between the dies. The narrow wedge exists because the sharpened cutting edge of the
die is necessarily of narrower gauge than the top of the die. Thus if the dies are butted
together, they touch at the top but show a small gap at the level of the cutting edges. The
action of the press will compress this narrow wedge of fabric to the point where it will
rupture the dies. Hence it is necessary to leave a significant gap between two dies, say 2 to 3
mm. similarly a single die will not cut satisfactorily if placed closer than 3 to 4 mm to a
previously cut edge.

Large area die cutting presents a number of technical problems. A complete lay of free
dies several meters long on top of the fabric could be cut by a twin pillar or four pillar presses
extending across the lay. For economic and engineering reasons the depth of the press is
limited.

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NOTCHES

Many garment parts require that notches are cut into the edges of them to enable
alignment during sewing with other garment parts. The previous four methods of cutting can
be used to cut notches, but accuracy depends of the operator. Specialized notching equipment
provides greater accuracy because a guide lines up the notched with the cut edge to give
consistent depth of notch at a consistent right angle to the edges.

Both straight notches and “v” notches are available. A further machine the hot
notches, incorporates a heating element in order that the blade may slightly scorch the fibers
adjacent to the notch in order to prevent it fraying and disappearing. This cannot be used with
thermoplastic fibers or certain unlined garments. One fabric requiring it may be loosely
woven tweed.

DRILLS AND THREAD MARKER

Where reference marks are needed away from the edge of a garment part, such as for
the position of pockets, darts and similar features, a hole is often drilled through all the plies
of fabric on the lay. The drill mounting includes a motor, a base plate with a hole to allow the
drill to pass through, and a spirit level to ensure that the base is horizontal and hence the drill
vertical.

On many fabrics the drill is used cold and the hole remains visible until the sewing
operator comes to use it. On looser weave fabrics where the hole may close up, a hot drill is
used, which will slightly scorch or fuse the edges of the hole.

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A hypodermic drill may also be used which leaves a small deposit of paint on each ply
of fabric. If it is important that no mark remains on the fabric, a long thread may be passed
through the lay which in then cut with scissors between each ply, leaving a few centimeters
visible on each garment panel. All drill holes must eventually be concealed by the
construction of the garment.

COMPUTER CONTROLLED CUTTING

This methods provides the most accurate possible cutting, at high speed, and to keep
the larger systems fully occupied they are frequently used in a central cutting facility that
supplies a number of separate sewing factories. Increasingly, though smaller, cheaper systems
are being developed which are suitable for companies wanting to cut lower lays of smaller
quantities of garments and these are appropriate for a single-factory operation.
A typical computer system has a table with cutting surface consisting of nylon bristles
which support the fabric lays but are flexible enough to permit penetration and movement of
knife blade which is supported only at the top. The bristles also allow the passage of air
through the table to create a vacuum, reducing the height of the lay and holding it in place.
The carriage supporting the cutting head has two synchronized servo-motors which drive it
on tracks on the edges of the table. A third servo-motor positions the cutting head on a beam
across the width of this carriage. These two movements are co-ordinate to give a knife
position at any point on the table. The cutting head contains a knife, automatic sharpener and
a further servo-motor which rotates the knife to position it at a tangent to the line of cut on
curves. A further facility controls the deflection of the knife which inevitably occurs on
curves by adjusting the angles to equalize the pressure on each side of the blade. This ensures
accurate cutting through all layers. A sheet of air tight polyethylene covers the top of the lay
which assists the creation of a vacuum and allows significant compression of the lay. A
control cabinet houses the computer and the electrical components required to drive the
cutter, its carriage and vacuum motor.
The spreader spreads the lay on a conventional cutting table equipped with air
floatation. Paper is spread below the bottom ply so that the lay can be moved on to the cutting
table without distortion and so that the bottom plies are supported during the cutting
operation. This paper is performed to enable the vacuum on the cutting table to operate to
compress the lay.
After loading the disc into the computer, the operator positions the cutting head’s
origin light over the corner of the spread. This provides the computer with a reference point.
A lift and plunge feature enables the knife to negotiate sharp corners and straight or ‘v’
shaped notches can also be cut. A motorized drill behind the cutting head can provide drill

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hole as required. Different system is available which are designed to cut different heights of
compressed plies. The maximum height is usually 7.5cm when compressed, with the height
before compression and hence the number of plies, being depended on the nature of the
fabric.
Different arrangement of cutting room tables is possible, but they must allow for the
fact that in this situation the cutting process takes very much less time than spreading and
some what less time than bundling. A typical arrangement would consist of four spreading
tables supplying each cutting table. The cutting table and its carriage and cutting head is able
to move between the spreading tables by means of tracks on the floor and has, beyond it, four
bundling table on to which the cut garments are moved.
POINTS TO REMEMBER:
 The use of the term cutting can present a difficulty.
 It is used in the sense of ‘cutting room’, an area which normally includes the activities
of marker planning, spreading and preparation for sewing, as well as being used to
refer to actual cutting of garment parts from the lay.
 Garments cannot be assembled satisfactorily, and they may not fit the body correctly,
if they have not been cut accurately to the pattern shape.
 The ease with which accuracy is achieved depends on the method of cutting
employed and in some cases on the marker planning and marker making.
 In manual cutting using a knife, accuracy of cut, given good line definition, depends
on appropriate, well maintained cutting knives and on the skill and motivation of the
cutter. In both the cutting and computer- controlled cutting, the achievement of
accuracy comes for the equipment.
 For symmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is suitable spread face to face, the
fabric can be spread along face up immediately back again face down.
 For symmetrical as well as asymmetrical pattern pieces, and fabric which is stable
spread all the same way up, the fabric can be spread along and immediately back
again but the roll must be turned on a turntable before returning.
 The advent of microprocessor control has enabled the development of more automatic
functions on spreading machines.
 Thus a spreader can be pre-set to a selected number of plies, emitting an audible
signal when it has reached the selected number or has come to the end of piece of
fabric.
 Automatic turn tabling gives automatic spreading even for corduroys which are
normally spread face to face.

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 With robotic spreading, when the piece is finished the spreader returns to an auto-
lifter at the end of the table, transfers the empty centre bar to the lifter which then
advances the next piece to the spreader.
 Spreading machines carry the piece of fabric from end to end of the spread,
dispensing one ply at a time onto the spread.
 Their basic elements consist of a frame or carriage, wheels traveling in guide rails at
the edge of the table, a fabric support, and guide collars to aid the correct unrolling of
the fabric.
 In the simpler versions, the operator clamps the free end of fabric in line with the end
of the spread, pushes the spreader to the other end, cuts off the ply in line with that
end, clamps the beginning of the next ply, pushes the spreader to the other end and so
on.
 The ply is normally cut with hand shears or with a powered circular knife mounted on
a frame, though a few fabrics are ripped at the end of the ply to discover the exact
weft grain and enable some straightening of a slightly crooked fabric to take place.

SUGGESTED QUESTIONS
SECTION-A
1. Band knife cutting machine is used for cutting curved edges.
2. Diazo photographic is a method using light sensitive paper for marker duplicating.
3. Steam air finisher is often referred to as puffer.
4. The most common type of iron in general use nowadays is steam ironing.
5. Marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plain.
SECTION-B
6. Explain Cutting equipment and tools.
7. Write about Types of spread and its quality
8. Write about rotary cutting machine.
9. Write about vertical reciprocity cutting machine.
10. Write about spreading equipment and tools used for spreading,
SECTION-C
11. Explain – knife cutting machine OR die cutters.
12. Explain -spreading methods.
13. Explain spreading by hand.
14. Explain the requirements of the spreading process.
15. Explain Computer controlled cutting.

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Unit III : Marking and Pressing Methods

Marking methods, positioning marking types of markers, efficiency of a marker plan,
requirements of marker planning. Pressing – purpose, pressing equipment’s and methods –
iron, steam press, steam air finisher, steam tunnel, special types – pleating, permanent

What is Marker?

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style
that are to be cut from in one spread.

What is Marker Making?

Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a
style, fabric and distribution of sizes (source: Apparel Manufacturing, Factories those don’t
have CAD system perform this process manually. In manual marker making to make an
efficient marker one need time, skill and concentration. Now-a-day Marker making is mostly
done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces time
required in making markers.

What is marker efficiency?

Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area of total
marker. It is important that when a marker is made it does not create an issue of fabric waste.
The goal is to utilize as much of the fabric as possible.
Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker efficiency
calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not included but in fabric utilization
calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are included.
MARKING METHODS:

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It is useful to break marker making down into:

 Marker Planning or the placement of pattern piece to meet technical

requirements and the needs of material economy, and
 Marker utilization which may include drawing the marker plan directly onto
fabric, drawing it onto a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter, or, where the
cutting method allows it, recording pattern piece information on the paper marker
or on the fabric without actually drawing pattern lines on it. Provision may have
to be made for the same marker plan to be used many times.
POSITIONING MARKING TYPES OF MARKER

Marker Making for Clothing Production: A pattern in sewing and fashion design is the
paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before
cutting out and assembling (these are often referenced as paper patterns).Pattern grading is an
essential part of pattern making. Grading rules determine how patterns increase or decrease to
create different sizes. Fabric type also influences the pattern grading standards. The cost of
pattern grading is incomplete without considering marker making.

The making of industrial patterns begins with an existing block pattern that most
closely resembles the designer's vision. Patterns are cut of oak tag (manila folder) paper,
punched with a hole and stored by hanging with a special hook. The pattern is first checked
for accuracy, then it is cut out of sample fabrics and the resulting garment is fit tested. Once
the pattern meets the designer's approval, a small production run of selling samples are made
and the style is presented to buyers in wholesale markets. If the style has demonstrated sales
potential, the pattern is graded for sizes, usually by computer with an apparel industry
specific CAD program. Following grading, the pattern must be vetted; the accuracy of each
size and the direct comparison in laying seam lines is done. After these steps have been
followed and any errors corrected, the pattern is approved for production. When the
manufacturing company is ready to manufacture the style, all of the sizes of each given
pattern piece are arranged into a marker, usually by computer. The marker is then laid on top
of the layers of fabric and cut.

Learn more about Marker making from the resources below:

FASHIONMARK MARKER MAKING SERVICE

Production Markers - Once your pattern has been approved for production and has been
graded, it's ready to be made into a marker. We place the pattern pieces onto the marker for

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you, indicating the grain of the material and ensuring each piece is in the best position to
optimize the use of your materials. Our marker making procedure is designed to maximize
productivity and minimize labour and material costs. All markers are plotted on a 72” width
inkjet plotter and include a mini marker print-out on 8 1/2” x 11” paper for your records.

Sample Markers - When you have a pattern made by us, we create a sample marker for you
and print a full size plot of your pattern on soft paper along with a mini version for your
records.

Yield Markers - To accurately order fabric, you may wish to order a yield marker before
your garment goes into full production. We can provide optimum utilization of any fabric
width, and deliver an accurate quantity of fabric to order, to attain the highest profit margin
for your new and existing garments.

Optitex Marker Making Software

Optimizing fabric utilization through marker making:

Your pattern has been approved for production and has been graded? Now it's ready to
be made into a marker. Marker making is made to arrange patterns in the most material
economizing manner, within the constraints of fabric type, width, and fabric designs such as
plaid or stripes. Materials constitute a significant part of the final production cost. It is
therefore essential to ensure the greatest possible savings by estimating material costs as
accurately as possible. Optitex solutions for textile production: Marker, CutPlan, Nest++ and
Match++, provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse
of previously made markers, and shortest response time.

Pad System

Developed by a leading world-class CAD/CAM solution provider, PAD Marker

Design is a versatile nesting tool that facilitates the job of professional marker makers in
laying out markers or patterns efficiently. Piece placement is made easy by linking our
marker to the original pattern style, allowing pattern changes to be updated automatically in
the related marker. It integrates seamlessly with PAD Auto mark Engine whose performance
outperforms any world-class industrial auto-nesting engine, achieves maximum fabric
utilization. Estimate on fabric consumption can be calculated for purchase planning.

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Marker Making - The Harvard Center for Textile and Apparel Research

An essential step in the manufacture of clothing is the generation of a cutting plan or

marker. The marker determines how the parts that make up an article of clothing are cut from
a bolt of cloth. To improve cloth utilization, the parts for many articles of clothing are
included in the same marker: in the case of blue jeans, 100 to 200 parts are packed onto a
rectangle of cloth about two yards wide and 8 to 12 yards long. Generating an optimal marker
(the shortest marker of a given width containing a given set of parts) is theoretically
intractable (specifically, it is NP-complete). Using a CAD system, well-trained people can
generate near-optimal markers manually, but it is a difficult and time-consuming job.
Automatic generation of markers would better enable manufacturers to keep up with
customer demands for different styles and sizes.

EFFICIENCY OF THE MARKER PLAN

The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan created. A
formula describes this

Area of patterns in the marker plan

------------------------------------------------------- X 100%
Total Area of the marker plan
Since the reduction in fabric cost is so important, the company expects the
planner to discover opportunities for improvements in marker efficiency by suggesting
alterations to patterns and cloth, the two elements brought in market planning. The first sort
of opportunities is commonly designated pattern engineering. Chief among these is an
examination of seam location to ensure the best possible placement of patterns in the marker.
In one case shift of a seam might allow the placement of small parts in areas otherwise
wasted, for instance in the armhole of a jacket or shirt lying next to the edge of a marker. In
another case the seam is moved to enable the better placement of large panels across the
whole width of the fabric.
The second sort of opportunity arises in the influence the marker planners has on the
selection of fabric widths where a choices available. The ‘best’ width depends among other
factors on the costs of various fabric widths per sq.m, the typical number of sizes in a marker,
the potential pattern engineering changes at various widths and the marker efficiency of a
series of test markers.

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THE REQUIREMENTS OF MARKER PLANNING:

The industry has always paid great attention to marker planning, because when the
cutting room cuts cloth it spends around half of the company’s turnover. Any reduction in the
amount of cloth used per garment leads to increased profit.

Marker planning is a conceptualizing, intuitive, open and creative process, in contrast

to making up a jigsaw puzzle, which is an analytical, step-by-step and closed process. There
is no final solution to a marker planning problem, only a more tightly packed and therefore
shorter marker the more time is spent on it. The work of the marker planner is subject to a
number of constraints. These relate to

1. the nature of the fabric and the desired result in the finished garment
2. requirements of quality in cutting
3. requirements of production planning
THE REQUIREMENTS OF QUALITY IN CUTTING:

a) For the majority of cutting situations where a knife blade is used, the placements of
the pattern pieces in the marker most give freedom of knife movement and not restrict
the path of the knife so that it leads to inaccurate cutting.
b) A blade, which has width, cannot turn a perfect right angle in the middle of a pattern
piece and space must always be allowed for a knife to turn such corners. Also, in
practice, a curved part of a pattern such a sleeve head, when placed abutting a straight
edge, or the crown of the curve being straightened. The amount of space which must
be left will depend on the actual cutting method employed.
c) Correct labeling of cut garment parts is essential if, in sorting and bundling a multi-
size lay after cutting, operators are to identify correctly the parts which make up the
whole garment sizes. It is the responsibility of the marker planner to code every
pattern piece with its size as the marker is planned.

THE REQUIREMENTS OF PRODUCTION PLANNING:

When an order is placed for a quality of garments, it normally specifies a quantity

of each size and colour, the former often given as a ratio. The requirements of production
planning and control will be to supply the sewing room with an adequate amount of cut
garments at sufficiently frequent intervals, consistent with availability of fabric and the
best utilization of cutting room resources. Among the latter considerations is that, for a
given quantity of garments, a high lay rather than a low lay gives a lower cutting labour

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cost per garments. The higher lay will, of course, also be shorter, giving a lower overall
cutting time which is important if the sewing room requires the cut work urgently. The
shorter lay will also require a shorter marker.

METHODS OF MARKER PLANNING AND MARKER:

The methods of marker are basically classified into two categories.

1. Manual marker
2. Computerized marker
But say about, the marker type can be classified into two types

i. Paper marker
ii. Fabric marker
MANUAL MARKER PLANNING WITH FULL SIZE PATTERNS:

Prior to the development of computerized marker planning systems, all markers were
planned by working with full size pattern. For many companies in the industry this method is
still used, because the more modern alternatives are expensive, and because these companies
make only short or single size markers and the planner can see the whole of the plan
relatively easily. The planner words by moving around the full size patterns until a
satisfactory plan is obtained.

In a few clothing companies this planning is done directly on the fabric to be cut and
the pattern shapes marked in immediately. This can only be done when the length of the
marker is predictable and in marking directly on to fabric, the necessary accurate
reproduction of the pattern and good definition of line can be difficult to achieve. Patterns are
usually made from card and it is important that the edges do not become worn and that the
pattern is held firmly while drawing takes place. Various chalk or wax materials can be used
to draw with but whatever is used needs to be easily held and readily sharpened. The quality
of the line also depends on the surface nature of the fabric.

This method takes considerable skill to achieve accuracy and it takes considerable
time, but it is economical for single garments and also for check fabric since it allows the
patterns to be manipulated during the marking process. In many companies, more than one
lay is cut using the same marker plan. If the plan is drawn directly on to the fabric, this
process of drawing round the patterns has to repeat for each lay.

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It is much more common for a paper marker to be used for cutting and in this case the
pattern lines and style and size information are usually drawn on spot and cross paper to
ensure adherence to grain lines. It is still essential that patterns do not become worn but a
satisfactorily fine line is easier to achieve that when marking directly on to fabric as a pencil
or a ball point pen can be used. Again, multiple copies of the paper marker are normally
needed. These copies can either be made when the marker plan is first drawn, or the master
marker can be reproduced as needed by a variety of methods.

MARKER DUPLICATING:

Again, multiple copies of the paper marker are normally needed. These copies can
either be made when the marker plan is first drawn, or the master marker can be reproduced
as needed by a variety of methods.

There are different duplicating systems available

a. Carbon duplicating
b. Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system
c. Diazo photographic method
d. Perforated marker
a) Carbon duplicating :
For copies to be made as the original is drawn and where small numbers of copies
only are needed, use can be made of carbon paper, usually double sided, or the same
effect can be achieved with special NCR-Type (no carbon required) paper. In either case,
6-8 copies can be made without too great a deterioration in the fitness of the line.

b) Spirit duplicating or hectograph carbon system:

In this process, the master marker is drawn on paper with the layer of special
hectograph paper underneath it. This paper transfers a blue line on to the back of the
master as it is drawn. The master is then used to make one copy at a time in a duplicating
machine. The machine uses alcohol to wet a plain white paper which is then passed with
the master between two rollers, transferring the lines on to the copy. It is a messy process
but many copies can be produced.

c) Diazo photographic method:

This process makes as many copies of the marker as are needed, one at a time,
following the drawing of a master marker. The master marker and a light-sensitive paper
are passed under high intensity ultra-violet light and the light sensitive paper is developed

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using ammonia vapor. The lines remain visible. It is a clean process which can make
unlimited number of copies with good definition and it must be used with ample
ventilation to remove ammonia fumes. The paper is expensive but the equipment is
comparatively cheap.

d) Perforated marker:
An alteration method of paper marker is perforated marker from the initial hand
drawn version by means of a punch perforator. This has been used in the clothing industry
but is more commonly used for cutting, upholstery fabrics.

COMPUTERISED MARKER PLANNING:

This method is normally part of an integrated system which includes digitizing or

scanning of full size patterns into the computer, facilities for pattern adaptation, and by
inputting appropriate great rules, the means to generate all the sizes required. The planner
uses a visual display unit with keyboard, tablet and data pen, puck or mouse.

The planner specifies the exact make-up of the marker plan; the width of the fabric, the
pattern pieces to be used, the sizes to be included and all constraints to be applied, including
any matching of checks. The system produces the marker plan automatically or interactively.
Automatic marker planning involves calling up data defining the placement of pieces in
markers previously planned, and selecting from a series, that marker conformation which
gives the highest marker efficiency.

Interactive marker planning is more common and is the process by which the operator
plans markers by interacting directly with the system through the VDU screen. All the pattern
pieces are displayed in miniature at the top of the screen. In the middle of the screen are two
horizontal lines defining the marker width and a vertical line at the left representing the
beginning of the marker? The right end is for the moment open. At the bottom of the screen is
written marker identification, with marker length and efficiency constantly updated during
the planning proves.

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The data pen (or puck or mouse), tablet and the computer keyboard are used to
manipulate the pattern pieces. A combination of movements of the pen and commands via the
key board enable pattern pieces to be moved about the screen and positioned in the marker.
The system finally positions the pattern pieces precisely according to the marking rule
specified. After selecting the most economical marker plan devised in the time available, the
computer will provide an accurate piece count; calculate a marker plan efficiency percentage
and total the length of the pattern peripheries. When the marker plan is complete it will be
stored in a marker plan file for future retrieval.

The quality of marker planning is more consistent than with manual methods, because
instructions regarding grain lines are always followed, because the butting of pattern pieces
precise with no overlapping and the pattern count is automatic, a boon in complex markers.

It is difficult to compare the capital cost of the computer system used in marker planning
with the other methods described previously because in all cases the computer systems
provide a pattern development and grading facility as well. It also enables the reproduction of
as many copies of a marker as are required without restoring to additional methods of
reproduction such as the manual methods required. However, the fact that the cost of such a
package of computer equipment is as many times that of a manual planning.

After planning the marker on the computer, the marker planner instructs the computer to
plot the marker automatically on to paper. As an alternative to plotting even this amount of
information on a marker, it is possible, cutting will be by computer-controlled knife, not to
plot any of the marker but to attach adhesive labels to the top ply of fabric to give the
information necessary to section garment parts into bundles. This saves both the time of
plotting and the cost of plotter and paper.

PRESSING:

Pressing makes a large contribution to the finished appearance of garments and thus
attractiveness at the point of sale.

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THE PURPOSE OF PRESSING

1. To smoothing away unwanted creases and crash marks

In garment manufacture, creases and crashing occur in garments as a result of

operator handling and these are particularly bad where garments/are handled between
operations in bundles, whether they are tied tightly or piled on trolleys or in boxes.

2. To make creases where the design of the garment requires them

Creases are obvious design features in trousers, skirts (where a series of creases is
often referred to as pleating and some collar styles. Creases are less obvious but still require
pressing when they are hems and cuff edges, front edges, top edges of waistbands, pocket
flaps .edges as well as pressed open seams, which from a pressing point of view are two
creases seem together.

3. To mold the garment to the contour of the body

It is mainly affected in wool or wool-rich fabrics in the types of garment referred to as
tailored. This sort of molding involves two kinds of deformation (together or separate):
shrinking and stretching. After molding it is not possible to unpick the seams and return
garment parts to their former flat state.

4. To prepare garments for further sewing

The term 'under pressing5 is reserved fox pressing operations on partly constructed
garments, while top-off-or final pressing is used for completed garments, the actual term
varying according to the sector of the industry. The stages at which a garment is under
pressed will depend on many factors, it normally takes place when several sewing stages hare
been completed but are still accessible by the press equipment

5. To refinish the fabric after manufacturing the garment

Especially during under pressing, the surface of the fabric may be temporarily changed. A
common symptom is gloss or glazing, induced by extreme pressure of press or iron in order to achieve a
firm edge or seam. The surface fibers are heavily flattened in such a way as to form a partial mirror.

PRESSING EQUIPMENT AND METHODS

In practice, many companies combine the use of several type of pressing equipment to
achieve satisfactory and economical pressing. The following are the different pressing equipments
used in garment industry.

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 Iron
 Steam Presses
 Steam air finisher
 Steam tunnel
 Pleating
 Permanent press
IRON

The traditional form of iron, heated by a gas flame inside the metal casting, had its last,
stronghold in the touching up of men's jackets. Temperature was estimated only by the rate of saliva
evaporation from its bottom surface. A. damp rag provided moisture wand a piece of linen was the
drying agent.

The most common type of iron in general use nowadays is steam electric. The iron is heated by
an electric element, controlled by a thermostat, and supplied with steam, either from the factory's main
steam supply, or from a small boiler adjacent to the pressing unit. The steam function of the iron is
activated by the touch of a button, when a powerful jet of dry steam is produced. At extremes, the
weights of irons vary from, about 2 to 15 kilos. Several shapes are available including a roughly
triangular one similar to a domestic iron, the tailor's shape' which has a pointed nose and parallel sides,
and a narrow one used for operations such as seam opening on sleeves and trouser legs.

There is a range of workplaces available for ironing, in a situation where a variety of

parts and shapes of garments has to be pressed, a Simple pressing table, similar in shape to a
domestic ironing board, is used. Modern tables have a supply of vacuum to hold the garment
in position and dry and set it after ironing. This vacuum facility can also be used as a work
aid in the sense that the term was used earlier. A section of a flat garment part can be held in
place while the operator moves the remainder of the part to create a fold or pleat which she
then presses. The position of the fold can be marked on the press cover for accuracy. The fiat

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table can be fitted with swivel arms, which present bucks of varied shapes to allow the laying
of sleeves, shoulders and collars without distortion or the danger of creasing.

Each of these has the vacuum facility. Alternatively, the basic table may consist of a
very large flat area, or a smaller curved surface, each with additional sections to be swing into
position if required. The principle is one of flexibility, with some units able to accept a
change of pressing surface so that the most suitable shape is always available for the
production of a particular batch of garments. Allowing function is also available on some of
these pressing surfaces which give a billowing surface on which to press. This enables some
difficult materials, such as thin, hard rainwear fabrics, to be pressed with less risk of seam
impressions showing.

Self-contained units, incorporating a steam boiler and electrically driver vacuum and
air blowing facilities, are increasingly used both in the under pressing of tailored garments
and the pressing of unstructured garments, because they can be moved from place to place at
much less cost than conventional steam supply. This means that they can be sited within a
production line of sewing operations to enable under pressing to be undertaken at minimum
cost.

STEAM PRESSES

A steam press consists of a static buck and a head of complementary

shape which closes onto it, thus sandwiching the garment to be pressed. A
general-purpose, manually operated press consists of a frame carrying the buck, which is
generally rounded in shape for pressing a variety of garments, linkages to close the head by a
scissors action, a pipe system distributing steam to head and buck, a. vacuum system to
provide suction through the buck, a table around the buck to aid handling of the garment, and
foot controls for head closure and vacuum, with hand and/or foot controls for steam.. There is
also a means of varying head pressure:

When pressing a garment such as a skirt, a typical pressing cycle might be steam from
the buck is applied, the head is locked to press the garment, further steam from the head or
the buck may be applied, and the head is then released and vacuum applied to cool and dry
the garment before it is moved around the buck for the next part of it to be pressed. When
pressing is completed, the garment is hung on a hanger. Adequate time of application of
vacuum is essential if the garment is not to remain damp and to distort at this stage.

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In many cases, an iron is available beside the press for the operator to touch up local areas of the
garment before pressing with the head of the press. This facility can also be used to add sections of
fusible interlining to partly constructed garments, especially tailored jackets.

Manually operated scissor-action presses have been improved considerably by the use of
electronically controlled pneumatic power. The compressed air takes the heavy, fatiguing work of
closing the press from the operator, and allows the introduction of automatic timing of the pressing
cycle.

Another improvement is in the mechanical principle in the operation of steam presses. This
employs a vertical head movement instead of a scissors action, giving the benefits of much finer control
and a more even distribution of pressure over the whole surface of the buck, especially where contoured
shapes have to be aligned. At the same time additional functions can be incorporated such as head
vacuum and air blowing from the buck. The combination of these three factors enables easier pressing
of fabrics such as gabardines.

CAROUSEL PRESS

A development in press operation is the carousel press. Here a pair of bucks rotates between the
operator and either a single or a double head, depending on whether the bucks are identical or an
opposite pair for pressing the left and right of a garment part. The operator loads the garment onto one
buck which is then moved away to be aligned under the head, often behind a screen that keeps steam
away from the operator.

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TROUSER PRESSING

Trouser pressing is conventionally carried out in two operations, in addition to the under
pressing of the seam; legging on a flat press which sets and creases the legs, and topping in a series of
lays around the top of the trouser on a contoured press. If the trouser 'features a pleat at the waistband,
the leg crease must be run into it accurately.

STEAM AIR FINISHER

This equipment is often referred to as a 'puffer', a form press or a 'dolly' press, it consists of a
frame carrying a steam distribution system, compressed air distribution system and a pressing from
which is a canvas bag in the approximate shape of the garment to be pressed that is, a. body
shape but with no sleeves. There are controls for steam and air release, arid timers controlling
the steam and air cycles. The equipment aims to reduce the positioning and repositioning in
pressing operations by pressing the whole garment at the same time, though finishing is a
better term in this situation since very little pressure is applied to the garment. The operator
pulls the garment on to the form from above, and the form is then expanded to its full size
and shape as steam is blown through it from the inside. A cycle of, perhaps, 8 seconds
steaming is followed by a further period of hot air drying, also by blowing from the inside.

This equipment can remove accidental creases and refinish the fabric; but will not
form creases or mould the garment. It is extremely useful for garments such as nightdresses,
tee shirts and blouses, and is sometimes worth using for simple dresses, even though, the hem
might have to be pressed flat separately with a iron or a steam press.

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STEAMS TUNNEL

Another garment finishing process where pressure is not applied, to the garments but
where handling during the process is reduced is in steam tunnel finishing. It can be used for a
variety of simple garments in man-made fibers and blends. Some garments would be on
hangers, fed under automatic control through a cabinet on a motorized rail, and passing
through sections with superheated steam and drying by air blowing. Alternatively, tee shirts
and similar knitwear are loaded onto frames and passed through the tunnel on a conveyor.

The tunnel reduces the need, for any other pressing process before or after its
operation and sometimes eliminates it. The aim of the steam is to relax natural fibers, that of
the heat to relax man-made fibers. With the garments on hangers or frames, gravity or tension
pulls out the wrinkles, and the turbulence of air blowing provides additional energy to relax
wrinkles in woven fabrics. Such turbulence should be restricted with fabrics such, as acrylics,
since excessive agitation makes the fabric pliable and subject to deformation. This, fabric
responds well to infra-red drying, a feature of some tunnels.

SPECIAL TYPES

PLEATING

Pleating is a special type of pressing, the aim of which is to produce an array of

creases in a garment, of some durability and according to a geometrical pattern.. This may be
an overall pattern of small pleats, formed as a result of machine pleating a complete roll of
cloth, or larger pleats formed by hank pleating of garment sections which have been
previously cut to shape and, in the case of skirt sections, hemmed. Examples of machine
pleating are fluting and crystal pleating and of hand pleating, box pleats and the fan-shaped
pleats which taper to nothing at the waist and are known as sunray pleats. Like other forms of
pressing, the means of pleating are heat, moisture and pressure,

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Pleated fabrics

Machine pleating is of two types. The first is a rotary machine in which the rollers are
fitted with complementary dies similar to gears. Second is a blade machine in which pleats are
formed by the thrust action of a blade or blades. The pleats are set by heat and pressure as they pass
between a pair of mangle-type rollers.

PERMANENT PRESS

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The process known as 'permanent press' was developed some years ago as a way of giving
good crease recover after washing to cellulose fabrics. It declined with the rise in popularity of
polyester / cotton and polyester /viscose blends, where the polyester content assists crease recovery
and improves fabric strength. More recently, in an attempt to complete with man-made fibers, the
process has been marketed again with 100 percent cotton fabrics of high-enough initial strength
to allow for some degradation.

POINTS TO REMEMBER:

 Marker Planning or the placement of pattern piece to meet technical requirements and
the needs of material economy, and
 Marker utilization which may include drawing the marker plan directly onto fabric,
drawing it onto a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter, or, where the cutting
method allows it, recording pattern piece information on the paper marker or on the
fabric without actually drawing pattern lines on it.
 Provision may have to be made for the same marker plan to be used many times.
 The industry has always paid great attention to marker planning, because when the
cutting room cuts cloth it spends around half of the company’s turnover.
 Any reduction in the amount of cloth used per garment leads to increased profit.
 Marker planning is a conceptualizing, intuitive, open and creative process, in contrast
to making up a jigsaw puzzle, which is an analytical, step-by-step and closed process.
 There is no final solution to a marker planning problem, only a more tightly packed
and therefore shorter marker the more time is spent on it.
 The work of the marker planner is subject to a number of constraints.
 The master marker is drawn on paper with the layer of special hectograph paper
underneath it.
 This paper transfers a blue line on to the back of the master as it is drawn.
 The master is then used to make one copy at a time in a duplicating machine.
 The machine uses alcohol to wet a plain white paper which is then passed with the
master between two rollers, transferring the lines on to the copy.
 It is a messy process but many copies can be produced.
 Self contained units, incorporating a steam boiler and electrically driver vacuum and
air blowing facilities, are increasingly used both in the under pressing of tailored
garments and the pressing of unstructured garments, because they can be moved from
place to place at much less cost than conventional steam supply.

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 This means that they can be sited within a production line of sewing operations to
enable under pressing to be undertaken at minimum cost.
 In a few clothing companies this planning is done directly on the fabric to be cut and
the pattern shapes marked in immediately.
 This can only be done when the length of the marker is predictable and in marking
directly on to fabric, the necessary accurate reproduction of the pattern and good
definition of line can be difficult to achieve.
 Patterns are usually made from card and it is important that the edges do not become
worn and that the pattern is held firmly while drawing takes place.
 Various chalk or wax materials can be used to draw with but whatever is used needs
to be easily held and readily sharpened.
 The quality of the line also depends on the surface nature of the fabric.
 Trouser pressing is conventionally carried out in two operations, in addition to the under
pressing of the seam; legging on a flat press which sets and creases the legs, and topping in a
series of lays around the top of the trouser on a contoured press. If the trouser 'features a pleat at
the waistband, the leg crease must be run into it accurately.
SUGGESTED QUESTIONS

SECTION-A

1. The dress makers shears have longer blades of length 6” TO 12” .

2. Marker utilization is the process which includes drawing the marker plan directly
on to the fabric by pen or automatic plotter.
3. Pattern pieces normally carry a grain line.
4. Pressing makes a larger contribution to the finished appearance of garments.
5. Marker planning is a conceptualizing intuitive, open and creative process in
contrast to making up a jigsaw puzzle which is an analytical step by step and
closed process.
SECTION-B

6. Define efficiency of marker plan.

7. What is the main purpose of pressing?
8. What are the marking methods?
9. What are the requirements of marker paining?
10. What are the equipments of pressing?
SECTION-C

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11. What are pressing equipments and methods used?

12. Explain in detail about method of cutting?
13. Brief notes on methods of spreading.
14. Explain briefly about special types – pleating, permanent press.
Unit IV : Sewing Machineries
Sewing Machineries - Classification of sewing machines, parts and functions of Single
Needle lock stitch machine, over lock machine, bar tacking machine, button hole machine,
button fixing machine, blind stitching machine, fabric examining machine. Special
attachments, care and maintenance of sewing machines, Common problems and remedies

SEWING

Before the invention of a useable machine for sewing, everything was sewn by hands.
Most early attempts tried to replicate this hand sewing method and were generally a failure.
Some looked to embroidery, where the needle was used to produce decorative, not joining
stitches. This needle was altered to create a fine steel hook – called an Aguja in Spain. This
was called a crochet in France and could be used to create a form of chain stitch.

The ultimate look of the garment depends on how the patterned parts are attached
together by means of sewing. Any variation in sewing will lead to defective material. Sewing
is as tough as making pattern for any difficult style. Hence much concentration is to be paid
while doing this job. Sewing can be classified into two groups and they are

 Hand sewing
 Machine sewing
Hand sewing can be best suited for some special and temporary purposes, it is not
being dealt here, as most of the garments are machine made and mass produced. Our main
emphasize is focused on to the machine sewing.

Generally machine sewing is carried out on materials like woven and knitted fabrics,
particularly in textile applications. Again this may be on various fabrics having different
quality parameters.

HOW IT CAME ABOUT

o As with the most innovations, the sewing machine was invented in stages.
o In 1755, Charles T. Wiesenthal of the United States patented a double pointed
sewing needle, which did not need to be turned around between stitches.

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o In 1830, a Frenchman, Barthelemy Thimonnier, attached Wiesenthal’s needle

to connecting rod to make a sewing machine. (I can’t see how this would have
work, and I haven’t been able to find more detail.)

o In 1846, Elias Howe (an American) created to lock-stitch sewing machine.

This is used the modern mechanism, as described below. Because the lock
stitch mechanism is the core of the function of the modern sewing machine,
Howe is generally credited with its invention. However, his machine was
difficult to use well, and too expensive for home use.
o In 1849, the American Benjamin Wilson introduced an automatic feeding
mechanism, which solved the main usability problem with Howe’s machine.
o In 1851, Bostonian Isaac Merit Singer patented two refinements to the sewing
machine: a fixed arm structure still used today, and the presser foot. He began
manufacturing a sewing machine priced for home use. His company, Singer, is
still the largest sewing machine manufacturer in the world.
o The sewing machine predates electricity. Early machines used a hand crank or
a treadle to drive them. These turned out to be easily electrified, and many are
still in use today.
o Later innovations (a part from electricity) include the ability to zigzag and to
make more sophisticated stitching patterns. The latest machines have LCD
screens, microprocessors, and pre-programmed fonts for monogramming. (All
cute, but unnecessary).
SEWING MACHINE CLASSIFICATION

Machine type Applications

Lock stitch machine. * Straight scams, zigzag seams

Chine stitch machine.

Double chine stitch machine

Blind stitch machine. * Blind stitch machine for blind stitch &
hemming
Linking machine
* Linking machine attached trimming and
cuff of knitted fabrics
Over edge machine * Edge neatening, combined neatening and

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seam closing

Safety stitch machine * Safety stitching

Buttonhole machine * Specific sewing operation

Button sewing machine

Bar track machine

Profile sewer *Automatic, complex sewing operation.

Pocket sewer

TYPES OF SEWING MACHINE BED

Types of sewing machine Stitch type

Flat bed sewing machine (basic) Lock stitch, chine stitch

Raised bed machine Lock stitch, chine stitch

Post bed machine Lock stitch, chine stitch

Cylinder bed machine Lock stitch, chine stitch

Side bed machine Chine stitch, over edge stitches.

PARTS SINGLE NEDDLE SEWING MACHINE

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A machine for sewing fabric, leather, etc. specifically, one that uses two threads (an
upper and a lower, or bobbin thread) and is best at sewing woven materials.
TERMS USED TO DESCRIBE PARTS OF THE SEWING MACHINE
 Head - The complete sewing machine without cabinet or carry case.
 Bed - The flat surface of the sewing machine. A flat bed machine has one level
to sew on. A free-arm bed has a removable U-shaped part of the bed to

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reveal an arm or tub used for sewing hard-to-reach areas likes pant cuff
or sleeve.
 Hand wheel- The wheel located on the right side of the sewing machine. This wheel
is driven by the motor, but may be turned by hand to adjust needle height.
 Bobbin winder- Mechanism used to wind bobbins.
 Bobbin- Low spool that provide the lower thread.
 Thread take-up – Arm that pulls up slack in thread.
 Thread guide- Device which carries thread to a certain location.
 Upper tension – Mechanism which control delivery of upper thread.
 Lower tension- Provided by the bobbin case. Controls delivery of the bottomed
thread.
 Bobbin case – Device which holds the bobbin and provides tension to the lower
thread.
 Pressure Foot – Foot that presses down on fabric to stabilize its movement.
 Feed Dog – Mechanisms which controls motion of the fabric.
 Needle Plate – Plate under presser foots with slots to allow feed dog to reach fabric
and opening for the needle to move up and down.
 Hook – Device which picks the thread off of the needle.
 Feed drop – Adjustment used to take the feed dog out of play for free hand work.
 Stitch length – Adjustment used to determine length from front to back of the stitch.
HOW IT WORKS
The FIG shows the needle has its eye at the sharp end. The other end is attached to a
rod that goes up and down inside a fixed arm. The arm also holds a presser foot, which can be
raised or lowered manually, but which is kept down when sewing. Its role is to press the
fabric against a base plate.
The needle plunges in to the fabric from the top, through a hole in the presser foot.
There is a thread which goes from a spool, through a thread tensioning mechanism, and
through the eye of the needle.
There is another thread, which comes up from under the fabric being sewn. This is the
bobbin thread, which was wound onto its bobbin before sewing. The bobbin sits in a bobbin
case, which is not fixed to the sewing machine case. It floats in its own casing this is
important.
To begin sewing, the needle plunges through the fabric, taking the loop of the top
thread with it. Here’s the clever bit. A small hook on the bobbin case catches the needle
thread. The bobbin case rotates, effectively passing the entire bobbin through the loop of top

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thread. These yarns twist the bobbin thread with the top thread, making the stitch. The needle
is then pulled back up. If your thread tension is correct, the twist between the top and bobbin
threads is pulled into the fabric you are sewing as it goes.
Once the needle is out of the way, the feed dogs, which are located in the base plate,
push the fabric up against the smooth underside of the presser foot. As they then slide
backwards, they push the fabric with them to make a visible stitch.
There is also a backstitch lever on the machine. When that is pressed, everything
happens as described above except that the feed dogs push the fabric toward you rather than
pulling it away from you.

DOUBLE NEEDLE LOCK STITCH MACHINE

This machine is similar to single needle lock stitch machine. But here all components
are having two sets i.e. two sets of bobbin case, tensioner, take ups, thread guides, spool pin,
needle holders. In this the bobbin case are fixed one. The bobbin only taken out from the
machine.
This machine adopts two straight needles, vertical-axis rotating hook with self-
lubricating feature for catching thread loops and sliding cam take- up to produce two lines of
double lock stitch. The needle bar can be engaged and disengaged mechanically and the arm
shaft and hook shaft are supported by ball bearing. It is provided with synchronous tooth belt
for driving and plunger pump for lubricating, and knob-type stitch regulator and lever type
reverse feeding mechanism. A bobbin thread pullback spring in the bobbin case guarantees

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the unanimous result of sewing between the bottom thread and upper thread. It is suitable for
stitching shirt, uniform, jeans, overcoat or similar clothing.
OVER LOCK MACHINE

An over lock stitch sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging,,
hemming or seaming. Usually an over lock sewing machine will cut the edges of the cloth as
they are fed through (such machines are called ‘sergers’), though some are made without
cutters. The inclusion of automated cutters allows over lock machine to create finished seams
easily and quickly. An over lock sewing machine differs from a lock stitch sewing machine
in that it utilizes loopers fed by multiple thread cones rather than a bobbin. Loopers serve to
create thread loops that pass from the needle thread to the edges of the fabric so that the edges
of the fabric are contained within the seam. Over lock sewing machines usually run at high
speeds, from 1000 to 9000 rpm, and most are used in industrial setting for edging, hemming
and seaming a variety of fabrics and products.
Over lock stitches are extremely versatile, as they can be used for decoration,
reinforcement or construction. Over locking is also referred to as “over edging”, “merrowing”
or “serging”. Though “serging” technically refers to over locking with cutters, in practice the
four terms are used interchangeably.

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THE FORMATION OF AN OVER LOCK STITC

* When the needle enters the fabric, a loop is formed in the thread at the back of the
needle.
*As the needle continues its downward motion into the fabric, the lower looper begins
its movement from left to right. The tip of the lower looper passes behind the needle
and through the loop of thread that has formed behind the needle.
*The lower looper continues along its path moving towards the right of the serge.
As it moves, the lower thread is carried through the needle thread.
*While the lower looper is moving from left to right, the upper looper advances from
right to left. The tip of the upper looper passes behind the lower looper and picks
up the lower looper thread and needle thread.
*The lower looper now begins its move back into the far left position. As the upper
looper continues to the left, it holds the lower looper thread and needle thread in
place.
* The needle again begins its downward path passing behind the upper looper and
securing the upper lopper thread. This completes the over lock stitch formation and
begins the stitch cycle all over again.
DEVELOPMENTS
Following the development of the industrial over lock machines, many companies
began competing for the home market. The development and formation of the stitch are
similar to the industrial models with some significant exceptions. The home machine sews at
approximately 800 stitches per minute (spm) whereas the industrial models sew up to 9500
spm.
Home machines are designed to sew several stitch types (variation of the over lock)
whereas the industrial models are designed to sew one type.

USAGES OF THE OVER LOCK STITCH:

Over lock stitches are typically used for:
 1-Thread: end-to-end seaming of piece goods for textile finishing.
 2-thread: finishing seam edges, stitching flat lock seams, stitching elastic and lace to
lingerie, and hemming.

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 3-thread: sewing pin tucks, creating narrow rolled hems, finishing fabric edges,
decorative edging, and seaming knit or woven fabrics.
 4-thread: decorative edging and finishing, seaming high-stress areas.
 5-thread: seam construction in apparel manufacturing.

SOME EXAMPLES OF APPLICATIONS ARE:

 sewing netting
 butt-seaming
 edging emblems
 purl stitching
 decorative edging

BAR TACKING MACHINE:

The bar tacking machine has much application in the garment manufacturing
industry. One of them is sewing dense tack around the open end of the button hole.
These machines are sewing a number of stitches across the point to be reinforced and
then sew covering stitches at right angle over to the first stitches. This variable is the number
of tacking stitches and the number of covering stitches.Some of the bar tacking are fitted with
the following special attachments.

● Signals are available and it controlled by special mechanism, when the bobbin
thread is below a certain level.
● Automatic thread cutters are available.
 A pedal which opens and close the work clam.
This machine is used for the following application in garment industry.
 Closing the end of the button hole.
 Reinforcing the ends of pocket opening.
 To finish the bottom of files.
 Sewing on belt loops

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BUTTON HOLE SEWING MACHINES

Button hole machines are used for making button hole in the garment and to finish the
edges and make the button hole in neat finish. These come in a variety of types according to
type of button hole needle on garment. The simplest button hole are used on shirts, blouses &
other light weight garment & the more complex one on the heavier tailor garments. The
various nesses in button hole machines are form in side button hole. The stitch type, the stitch
density whether the button hole is cut before or after sewing & the presents or absence of
gimp.
Button hole machine may form a simple circle where the stitches radiate from the
center of an eyelet home. 2 legs on either side of a straight out with bar tack on both sides as
in shirt, a continuous line of sewing up one leg, round the end and down the other without the
cut as in shank. Button hole on the cups of Jacques a button hole similar in form but larger in
length with the hole partially on holy cut and the separate bar tack closing of end, a button
hole with 2 legs and an eyelet hole at one end with a separate bar tack closing of other end as
in front of Jacques overcoats, a variation in which the second leg is sewn over the first
stitches of first legs to close the end as frequently on the knit wear and an end as eyelet the
edges of which one lightly over sewed known as cut and serge which they no more than
provide a firm edge to receive a hand sewn button hole known increasing rare.

The choice between lock stitch and chain stitch is affective by security requirements
or hole the finished appeared require and the relative causes are involved. In general button
hole on tailor outward make use of the two thread chain stitch the chain effect giving an
attractive purl appearance to button hole. The simplest shape of button hole on shirts and
other light weight garment is often used with single thread chain stitch and in some cases
sewing is done inside on the garment. So that the purl side of back of stitch is on right side
increasing used is being made of lock-stitch button holes sewing to give greater security on
these of garments for shirts.
The work button hole is slipped in fabric finished with either hand or machine
stitches. It has 2 sides equal in length to the button hole opening and 2 ends finished with bar

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tacks or with a fascinate arrangement of stitches. A hand work button hole is slip lot stitched.
A machine work button hole is stitched the slit. The match of actual button hole opening and
for the stitch button hole are however difference. The finished length of worked button hole
will equal the opening plus extra 3mm for stitches used for the stitches work to finish each
end.
There are various ways in which the machine work button hole may be made. One
way is wilt button hole stitches that come with the machines by means of a few movements
of a weaver or turn of gain. A button hole with finish end is stitched. There is no need to turn
the fabric by hand. This method is used when the machine has a built in and zigzag stitch
capability.
A second method makes use of a special attachment the plane on to needle bar and
presser foot of the machine. This attachment moves the fabric in button hole shape while the
machine with zigzag stitching attachments will vary machine to machine. But in most cases
the since and of the button hole is determined by button placed in the attachment. The button
hole size is limited by a capability of attachments.
BUTTON HOLE MACHINE TYPES
1. size and shape of the button hole
2. stitch type
a. lock stitch
b. chain stitch
3. stitch density
4. type of button hole
a. button hole cut before stitch
b. button hole cut after stitch
5. presence or absence of gimp
1. SIZE AND SHAPE OF THE BUTTON HOLE
Eyelet Buttonhole Straight Buttonhole

Standard

Taper Bar

Straight Bar Tacking

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Round Bar Tacking

Circular Stitching

2. STITCH TYPE
a. lock stitch: it is used mare commonly than the chain stitch because of its
greater strength and security.
b. Chain stitch: these types of stitch are give more neat finish but it does not
provide strength to the button hole. So the use of this type of stitch is less
popular than lock stitch.
3. TYPE OF BUTTON HOLE

There are two types of button hole and they are

a. button hole cut before stitch

b. button hole cut after stitch
a. button hole cut before stitch
The button hole is cut first and then finished with stitches. The stitches are
radiate from the center of the button hole to the outer edge of the button hole.

It gives neat appearance with the thread covering the raw edges of the hole
effectively. But this type has some set back. The position of the button hole cannot be
changed if sewing cycle is started. Sometimes the fabric edges will not be properly finished.
b. button hole cut after stitch
As the name indicates, the button hole edges are finished first and then it will be
slashed. In this type are made by sewing a continuous line of sewing round the end and
then the hole is cut subsequently.
It has the merits of, the edges of the fabric give some protection to the thread and
the position of the button hole can be changed. The main demerits are, the finished hole is
neat with cut ends of fibres or yarns are protruding between the stitches.
1. presence or absence of gimp
Gimp is the stiff thread positioned at the edge of the button hole under the stitches.
It gives more bulkiness or raised effect to the button hole.
BUTTON SEWING MACHINE

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A button can be sewn on

with one or two threads, the
number of stitches depending on
the type of machine used. Each
machine has a maximum number
of stitches and can adjust to sew
the full amount or half.
Generally decorative
button would be sewn on with
half the number of stitches used for functional buttons. Without damaging the garment this
machine is used to sew the button in the garment. Button with two holes, four holes or shanks
can be sewn on the same machine by simple adjustments to the button clamp and spacing
mechanism.
The sewing action consists of a series of parallel stitches whose length is equal to the
spacing between the centers of the holes. The needle has a vertical movement only and the
button is moved from side to side by the button clamp
Hopper feed is a special attachment which is automatically feeds the button to the
clamp of needle point of the machine. Here the button and the needle can be automatically
positioned and the threads are clipped.
Where a ‘neck’ is required between the underside of the button and the garment, the
stitch length between the button and the garment is increased and this surplus length can be
left as it is, or ‘whipped’. The whipping operation can incorporate as a second successive
operation on a button sewing machine.
THE FEED OF ARM MACHINE
The feed of the arm machine is used to stitch a narrow tubular seam on the outer edge
of the trousers and shirt. This machine is used where a lapped seam has to be closed in such a
way that the garment parts become a tube.
These are in common in jeans production where the out side leg seam is normally the
type known as lap felled and it is joined after the inside leg seam in the sequence of
construction. The operator wraps the part to be seam around the machine bed. It is fed away
from operator, off the end of the bed as the operator sews.
It can use for shirts and blouses of light to medium weight fabric. Unit features a
specially designed arm and bed for easy material handling. Low tension stitching prevents
puckering and enhances sewing quality.

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BLIND STITCH MACHINE

Blind stitch machine is used to stitch hem in a knitted fabric. As the hem stitch is too
small in right side of the garment and it is visible. Sometime the machine can be set to skip

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stitch that is to pick up the fabric on alternate stitches only. But this type is reduces the
durability of the stitches.
Zigzag stitches or lock stitches with a side to side width as well as stitch length. In
mechanical machines basic stitch formation is dictated mainly by a stitch pattern camp
maximum pattern width as established by stitch width regulator. Stitch length is selected or
for straight stitching and is the same for both stitch types at the same setting but occurs eye as
a distance between points and then actual stitch measurement.
The clamps built into mechanical machine control stitch formation by meant of in
their outer edges. A stitch pattern selector positions a finger like follower on appropriate cam.
The follower connected to the needle bar cracks those indentations moving the needle from
side to side. In most electronic machines the zigzag stitch is programmed by a micro-
computer which controls movement of stepping motor to direct zigzag movement of needles.
Besides the control mentioned most machine have needle position selector which places
stitches to left or right of normal position.
Zigzag patterns uses straight stitches as a part of the design. An ex is in blind stitch.
Length and width variations affect practical uses. For example when stitch length of blind
stitch is shortened there is more zigzag to catch the fabric. When the stitch is widened the
zigzag extends further from straight stitches to cover wider.

The needle used in this machine is slightly curved because it does not generate
through the fabric completely, but penetrate partially.

Based on the application and fabric the stitch can be grouped in to two types. First one
is for fine fabric producing long and narrow stitches. Second is for heavy fabric with short
and wide stitches. Again, the level of insecurity is often high but can be improved by the use
of slightly hairy rather than smooth sewing threads.

FABRIC EXAMINING MACHINE

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The fabric examine machine are use to check and

examine the fabrics. Through this machine we can inspect
the defects like major and minor defects. The machine
can be grouped in the following way.
 Manual fabric examine machine
 Semi automatic
 Fully automatic

It has a big inspection table (72” x 30”) with light source from top and bottom. The
unit if fitted with electronic chokes for instant illumination. It has forward as well as reverse
operation and has a variable speed control unit.

There is a foot switch for ease of operation. The unit is fitted with a digital fabric
length counter and a digital fault counter. Tensioning device for fabrics is an important
feature of the machine along with dual mode operation and continuous checking operation for
all types of fabrics.
SPECIAL ATTACHMENTS
Some machine attachment may be supply along with the machine when may be
purchased it. Other may be available at additional cast. Attachment make sewing machine
easier and provide opportunities for decorative sewing. After deciding which attachments you
need get, the dealer to demonstrate the operation of each or the booklets give and an
instruction for using them. Most of the fabric must be fixed to the presser bar in the place of
the presser foot. The attachment that to fast in the presser bar will have prompted similar to
presser foot in shade. Some attachment has hook end and that rest on the needle clamp. The
attachment most commonly used straight stitch machine.

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HEMMERS
Machine hemming with the hemmer attachments
means hours saved from hand turning and basting. The
hem is turned by the hemmer, and at the same time the line
of stitching is guided close to the edge of the hem. Always
remember, when hemming by machine, to leave threads at
the end sufficiently long to thread a hand needle and fasten
the end of the hem. Otherwise it is likely to fray.There are
various widths of hems which can be made with hemmers, suitable for the usual
requirements. But any hem that is more than seven-eighths of an inch in width must be turned
and basted first, and then stitched on the machine in the ordinary way.

RUFFLER
This attachment is capable of taking gathered or pleated frills, and will take and apply
frills to another section at the same time. It is useful in making children’s clothes and
curtains. It is one of the most valuable attachments in sewing machine, and reflects a great
deal of credit upon the inventors of these remarkable time-and-money-saving bits of steel.
The method of using the ruffler attachment varies with different machines.
THE BINDER
Another very valuable attachment in your box of sewing-machine attachments is the
binder. Of course fine bindings can be made by hand, but the modern, time-saving method is
to make them on the sewing-machine with the aid of the rapid little binder. With this tiny bit
of mechanical steel you can make ten yards of binding in ten minutes.
This is used for applying ready made or self made bias binding to a straight or curved
edge and is a useful attachment for trimming dresses etc.

TUCKER
This is used for making uniform tucks from 1/8
inches to 1 inch in width. Finest pin tucks, or those three-
quarters of an inch in width, they can be very easily made
without any basting.

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CLOTH GUIDE
This is the device which is useful and guiding fabric for uniform stitching.
CORDING FOOT OR ZIPPER FOOT
This is design for stitching close to a raised edge. It used for applying, cording in to
seam and the application of zipper.
GATHERING FOOT
This attachment gathers the fabric as it is stitch with fullness locked in every stitch
FEED COVER PLATE
This is used to cover the feed dog while doing machine embroidery and darning.
CIRCULAR ATTACHMENT
The circular stitcher is the ideal attachment for sewing circles using straight stitch,
zigzag stitch decorative stitches or even lettering. Circles up to 26cm in diameter are stitched
perfectly using this very popular attachment so essential for craft and decorative work-
Suitable for most top loading machines.

The additional that can be made to basic sewing machine are many and they come under the
general term work aids. Work aids are devices which are built in to machine and added to
them afterwards attached along side or made. Use what ever ways a resourceful engineer can
device to improve productivity, improve and maintain quality standard. Produce time and
minimized fatigue.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF SEWING MACHINE
Most sewing machine problems that encounter can be traced to poor general maintenance
or neglect. But with some simple tools and just a few minutes daily, weekly, or monthly
depending on how much our sewing machine, we can help keep our machine running

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smoothly. Here are my guidelines for care that should keep sewing machine happy and out of
the repair shop.
 GENERAL CLEANING
Cleaning the machine, it is best to clean one area at a time. Remove only the parts that are
involved and be sure to note where each part is from, its position, and which side is top.
Remove all the parts possible in order to clean the machine thoroughly. Keep the parts in
order to make it easier to replace them.

When using a screw driver, put the pressure on the push, not on the twist. If a screw will
not loosen easily, soak it with cleaning fluid. Then set the screw driver in the slot and tap
sharply with a hammer before attempting to looser. The screw driver blade should be as wide
as the slot in the screw is long. Always use a wrench not pliers-on bolt.
First, remove the needle, presser foot, slide plate, throat plate, bobbin case, and the face
plate (if it comes off). Put them in the pan and cover with cleaning fluid. Set aside to soak
while cleaning other areas. Next, wrap the motor (if necessary) and wire with plastic wrap to
protect them from oil and cleaning solvent. Be sure the machine has been unplugged.

Now it is time to begin work to clean the machine head. With a sharp pointed tool, clean
out all oil holes. Then, with your hand, turn the hand wheel to run the machine. At the same
time, squirt cleaning fluid into all the oil holes, on all bearings and on all other places where
one part rubs against or turns within another.
 BOBBIN AREA
If possible, remove the bobbin case to remove all lint and stray threads. If the machine
begins to run hard, it is a sign that dirt or lint has jammed inside a bearing. Continue running
the machine and flushing with cleaning fluid until the dirt and gummed oil are washed from
the bearing. When the machine runs easily again, tip the head and flush the parts underneath
the machine-all oil holes, bearing and places that rub against or within another. Continue
running the machine by hand until it functions smoothly.

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 UPPER THREAD TENSION

Pull a piece of cloth soaked in solvent back and forth between discs to clean. To remove
any remaining dirt and oil, dip a cloth or brush in cleaning fluid and scrub all parts of
machine that can be reached. Use a needle, knife or other pointed instrument to dig or scrap
away any remaining gummed dirt or lint in the feed dog, around the bobbin case, and in other
areas.

Check the lower tension of the bobbin case and the upper thread tension discs. Pull a
thread under the tension of the bobbin to remove dirt. Pull a piece of cloth soaked in cleaning
fluid back and forth between the discs of the upper tension. Repeat with a dry cloth to be sure
no lint or thread is caught between them.

In addition to general cleaning, three areas need special attention. They include the hand
wheel bearing and the clutch assembly, the needle-bar and the presser foot, and the hook and
bobbin areas assembly. When the hand wheel assembly gets gummy and dirty, it must be
cleaned for the clutch to work properly. The clutch disengages the needle-bar when winding a
bobbin.

Some new sewing machines refill the bobbin in its regular position and a clutch is not
necessary. In such machines, it is not often necessary to remove the hand wheel to clean this
area.

 HAND WHEEL AREA

To remove the clutch and hand wheel, loosen the small screw in the face of the
locknut (the locknut is the part that is turned to the left to release the clutch for operation the
bobbin winder). Next, unscrew the locknut, and remove the washer and hand wheel. Most
machines will have a washer that looks like one of the three shown. Some makes will be
slightly different. Notice the position of the washer so it can put in back in the same position.

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Clean the hand wheel, washer, and shaft. Lubricate the shaft with two drops of oil and
place a small amount of grease on all gears. Reassemble the hand wheel and clutch. If the
clutch fails to operate, either because it will not hold or fails to release, remove the locknut
again and turn the washer one half turn (180 degree) and reassemble. The clutch should then
work properly.
After thoroughly cleaning these areas, reassemble the machine and run it by hand. It
should run smoothly if all parts have been replaced correctly.

 FACE PLATE AREA

The face plate on most machines is held in place with one or two screws. By removing
these plates can be easily removed for cleaning of the needle-bar and presser foot bar.

On some of the newer machines, the face plate is a part of a housing that is mounted
on hinges, which makes it easy to move the entire housing away from the bars and
mechanisms behind it. Not other parts need to be removed for cleaning in this area. First use
a dry brush to clean out all lint and other foreign material. A small piece of cloth with a little
solvent on it can be used to clean the needle-bar and presser bar of any gummy grease.

After thoroughly cleaning, place a drop or two of oil on each shaft where it slides
through the housing. Oil all other moving parts according to instruction book before replacing
face plate

 BOBBIN AND HOOK AREA

Lint is the primary offender in this area. The bobbin case can be removed on all
makes of machines. Use a dry brush to clean out all lint. Remove any thread that may be
wound up around the hook shaft. On many machines, the hook assembly can be removed for

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more complete cleaning. Place one drop of oil on the exterior perimeter of the hook and the
bobbin case to lubricate if after cleaning.

 OILING AND LUBRICATING THE MACHINE

Allow the machine to stand overnight so excess cleaning fluid can evaporate before
oiling and lubricating it. Check the machine instruction booklet to determine the type of oil
lubricant to use and where to use them.

Some machines have bearings that are nylon or graphite-impregnated bronze and do not
require oil or lubricant. Also, some machines do not need oiling because they are designed
with oil impregnated in the bearing castings. If the machine does not require oil, do not use it.

Do not oil the tension discs, the hand wheel release or the belts and rubber rings on any
machine. In the holes designated, and on all parts that rub against or within another, squirt a
little oil. Run the machine by hand to distribute the oil into all the bearings. Use oil freely
because all oil has been removed in the cleaning process. If there is any wool or felt pads that
feed oil to parts, be sure they are well-oiled.

For later oiling, one drop of oil on each bearing and in each oil hole is enough. It is a
good practice to oil the machine after each day’s work or after 8 to 10 hours of use. Even if
do not use the machine often, oil it occasionally to keep the oil from drying and gumming.

If the machine requires a lubricant, lubricate the areas suggested. Use the lubricant
recommended for the machine for best results.

After oiling and lubricating the machine, wipe away excess oil and reassemble the
machine. As replace the parts that have been soaking in the pan, do not force screws or parts
into place. Check to be sure it is in the correct location.

COMMON PROBLEMS AND REMEDIES

The common trouble and their possible remedies are listed below.
Symptom Root Cause Corrective Action
 Sewing machine  Sewing machine has  Turn power off and
suddenly stops been run at a low wait about 20
during sewing. speed for an extended minutes. Safety
 Light is on, and period of time. device will reset, and
hand wheel can be  To prevent machine will be
turned easily by overheating, ready to operate.

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hand motor power is

Automatically turned
off.
 Needle will not  Upper thread has run  Replace empty spool
move. out. and thread machine.
 Presser foot is up.  Lower presser foot.
 Bobbin winder shaft  Move bobbin winder
was left in winding shaft back fully to
position. left.
 Buttonhole lever was  Lower buttonhole
not lowered when lever.
machine was placed in
buttonhole mode.
 Sewing machine  Presser foot is not  Replace presser foot
will not run correct one, and with new one.
needle hits presser  Remove needle and
foot. insert new one
 Needle has come out
and is in hook of
machine.
 Upper thread breaks  Threading is not  Correctly thread
correct. machine.
 Thread has a knot in  Remove knot.
it.  Correct thread
 Thread tension is too tension.
tight.  Replace needle.
 Needle is bent or blunt  Replace needle with
or has a sharp eye. correct size.
 Needle is wrong size.  Properly insert
 Needle has been needle.
inserted wrong.  Start machine at a
 Needle and thread medium speed.
does  Use proper thread or
not match. needle.
 Starting to stitch too  Check threading
fast. order

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 Thread take-up lever

has not been threaded.
 Bobbin thread  Bobbin has not been  Securely install
breaks fully inserted in bobbin
bobbin case. into bobbin case.
 Bobbin has been  Correctly thread
incorrectly threaded. bobbin case.
 Bobbin does not turn  Check to see that
smoothly in bobbin bobbin has been
case. wound evenly.
 Lint in bobbin case or  Clean bobbin case
Shuttle and shuttle.
 Skipped stitches  Thread tension is too  Correct thread
tight. tension.
 Needle is bent or  Replace needle.
blunt.  Replace needle with
 Needle is wrong size. correct size.
 Needle and thread  Use proper thread or
does needle.
not match.  Check threading
 Thread take-up lever order.
has not been threaded.  Increase pressure on
 Light pressure on presser foot.
presser foot.  Reset needle.
 Incorrect setting of
Needle
 Stitches are not  Thread has not been  Fully pull thread into
formed properly pulled into thread thread sensor guide.
sensor guide.  Correct threading.
 Threading is not  Correctly thread
correct. bobbin case.
 Bobbin case has been  Replace the cap with
threaded wrong. correct size.
 Spool cap is wrong
size for thread spool.
 Irregular stitches  Incorrect size needle.  Choose correct size

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 Improper threading. needle for thread and

 Loose upper thread fabric.
tension.  Rethread machine.
 Pulling fabric.  Tighten upper thread
 Light pressure on tension.
presser foot.  Do not pull fabric;
 Loose presser foot. guide it gently.
 Unevenly wound  Increase pressure on
bobbin Presser foot.
 Reset presser foot.
 Rewind bobbin.
 Fabric puckers.  Stitch length is too  Decrease stitch
long for material. length.
 Needle point is blunt.  Replace needle.
 Incorrect thread  Reset thread tension.
tension.  Increase pressure on
 Light pressure on Presser foot.
presser foot.  Use underlay of
 Fabric is too sheer or tissue paper.
soft.  Upper thread and
 Using two different bobbin thread should
sizes or kinds of be the same size and
thread kind.
 Bunching of  Upper and lower  Draw both threads
thread. threads back under presser
not drawn back under foot.
Presser foot.  Raise feed dog.
 Feed dog down.
 Needle breaks  A thin needle was  Use correct size
used needle.
for sewing a heavy  Properly insert
weight material. needle.
 Needle has not been  Securely tighten
fully inserted into needle clamp screw.
needle bar.  Use correct presser
 Needle clamp screw is foot.

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loose.  Reset presser foot.

 Presser foot is not  Do not pull fabric,
correct one. guide it gently.
 Presser foot is loose.
 Pulling on fabric as
you sew.
 Loud noise is  Dust has accumulated  Clean machine.
heard. in feed dogs.  Clean machine.
 Knocking noise,  Lint is in hook.  Disassemble machine
machine jammed  Thread caught in and clean shuttle.
shuttle
 The machine does  The stitch length has  Reselect the proper
not feed material been set to zero. stitch pattern and
 The presser foot length.
pressure is too low.  Set presser for
 Feed dogs are pressure adjustment
lowered. lever to "normal".
 Threads are knotted  Raise feed dogs.
under fabric.  Place both threads
back under presser
foot before beginning
to stitch
 Threading cannot  The needle is not in  Turn hand wheel
be done. highest position. until needle reaches
 The needle threader  The needle threader is its highest position.
will not turn. designed not to turn to  Properly insert
 The threading protect it if the needle needle
hook will not enter is not up.
needle eye.  The needle has not
been
fully inserted into
needle bar.

 Needle threader  Sewing machine was  Slightly turn handle

cannot be returned accidentally started clockwise and
and the sewing while threading hook remove threader.

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machine stops. was still in needle eye

 The threading (during threading).
hook is left in the
needle eye

POINTS TO REMEMBER:
 In the holes designated, and on all parts that rub against or within another, squirt a
little oil.
 Run the machine by hand to distribute the oil into all the bearings.
 Use oil freely because all oil has been removed in the cleaning process.
 If there is any wool or felt pads that feed oil to parts, be sure they are well-oiled.
 Some machine attachment may be supply along with the machine when may be
purchased it.
 Other may be available at additional cast.
 Attachment make sewing machine easier and provide opportunities for decorative
sewing.
 After deciding which attachments you need get, the dealer to demonstrate the
operation of each or the booklets give and an instruction for using them.
 Most of the fabric must be fixed to the presser bar in the place of the presser foot.
 The attachment that to fast in the presser bar will have prompted similar to presser
foot in shade.
 In 1755, Charles T. Wiesenthal of the United States patented a double pointed sewing
needle, which did not need to be turned around between stitches.
 In 1830, a Frenchman, Barthelemy Thimonnier, attached Wiesenthal’s needle to
connecting rod to make a sewing machine.
 In 1846, Elias Howe (an American) created to lock-stitch sewing machine. This is
used the modern mechanism, as described below. Because the lock stitch mechanism
is the core of the function of the modern sewing machine, Howe is generally credited
with its invention. However, his machine was difficult to use well, and too expensive
for home use.
 In 1849, the American Benjamin Wilson introduced an automatic feeding mechanism,
which solved the main usability problem with Howe’s machine.
 In 1851, Bostonian Isaac Merit Singer patented two refinements to the sewing
machine: a fixed arm structure still used today, and the presser foot. He began

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manufacturing a sewing machine priced for home use. His company, Singer, is still
the largest sewing machine manufacturer in the world.
 The sewing machine predates electricity.
 Hopper feed is a special attachment which is automatically feeds the button to the
clamp of needle point of the machine.
 Here the button and the needle can be automatically positioned and the threads are
clipped.
 Where a ‘neck’ is required between the underside of the button and the garment, the
stitch length between the button and the garment is increased and this surplus length
can be left as it is, or ‘whipped’.
 The whipping operation can incorporate as a second successive operation on a button
sewing machine.
 Button hole machine may form a simple circle where the stitches radiate from the
center of an eyelet home. 2 legs on either side of a straight out with bar tack on both
sides as in shirt, a continuous line of sewing up one leg, round the end and down the
other without the cut as in shank.
 Button hole on the cups of Jacques a button hole similar in form but larger in length
with the hole partially on holy cut and the separate bar tack closing of end, a button
hole with 2 legs and an eyelet hole at one end with a separate bar tack closing of other
end as in front of Jacques overcoats, a variation in which the second leg is sewn over
the first stitches of first legs to close the end as frequently on the knit wear and an end
as eyelet the edges of which one lightly over sewed known as cut and serge which
they no more than provide a firm edge to receive a hand sewn button hole known
increasing rare.

SUGGESTED QUESTIONS
SECTION-A
1. The ultimate look of the garment depends on how the patterned parts are attached
together by means of sewing.
2. A bobbin thread pullback spring in the bobbin case guarantees the unanimous
result of sewing between the bottom thread and upper thread.
3. Low spool that provide the lower thread is bobbin
4. Feed cover plate is used to cover the feed dog while doing machine embroidery
and darning.

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5. Hopper feed is a special attachment which is automatically feeds the button to the
clamp of needle point of the machine.
SECTION-B
6. What are the terms used to the sewing machine?
7. Write the formation of an over lock stitch?
8. What are the Usages of the over lock stitch?
9. What is Hemmer?
10. What is a Button sewing machine?
SECTION-C
11. Explain Classification of single needle sewing machines
12. Explain parts and functions of single Needle machine with neat diagram.
13. Explain over lock machine with neat diagram.
14. Explain button fixing machine, and blind stitching Machine.
15. Write in detail about care and maintenance of sewing machines.

Unit V : Packaging, Sewing Threads, Stitches and Seams

Garment Packaging – Types of package forms, Sewing threads- types, essential qualities of a
sewing thread. Federal standards for stitch and stitch classification, Federal standards for
seam and seam classification.

PACKAGING
Introduction
Packaging means wrapping, compressing, filling or creating of goods for the purpose
of protection of goods and their convenient handling. Packaging is an important part of the
product, which has to receive a lot of attention to the people. It is concerned with designing &
producing of appropriate packages for a product. Packaging also refers to the process of
design, evaluation, and production of packages. Packaging can be described as a coordinated
system of preparing goods for transport, warehousing, logistics, sale, and end.
After final inspection & garments folding, the garments are poly-packed dozen-wise,
color wise, size ratio wise, bundled and packed in the carton. The carton is marked with

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important information in printed form which is seen from outside the carton easily. Specially,
it is needed to ensure the placement of sticker in proper place.

FLOW CHART OF GARMENT PACKAGING

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APPAREL PACKAGING SEQUENCE

 After folding garments are packed in polyethylene packets

 Generally polyethylene packets are of different sizes
 During packing, the position of sticker and other label should be confirmed
 After polyethylene packing , garments are kept in the sorting rack according size and
color
 Then garments placed in inner box from the sorting rack according to size and color
 Packing in inner box according to work order is called is called ‘assortment’
 The packing that is done by the fixed no. of inner box in the cartoon is called
cartoning or packing
 The carton is sealed with the scotch tape
 Carton bears some information on it g. carton box no. carton box size, shipping mark,
destination etc.
CLASSIFICATION OF PACKAGING

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BASED ON GARMENT PACKAGING:

Different types of packaging are there for different types of garments. Following is the most
used packing types –

 Stand up pack: Shirt (90° angle)

 Flat pack: Sport wear/Shirt/Trouser
 Hanger pack: Blazer, Coats, Pants
 Semi stand up pack: Shirt
 Half fold pack: Pant
PACKAGING DESIGN
Merchandising packaging
The merchandise package is the unit the consumer receives when he selects the product.
What functions must a merchandising package perform in order to stimulate sales of the
product in the package? From the consumers point of view the merchandise package should :

 Identify the product

 Enhance the appeal of the product
 Attract the consumer to the package
 Protect the product quality until the consumer uses the item
Transparent plastic film is useful in meeting all of the requirements. Seeing the product
makes it easy to identify and attract the consumer. Colour and design on the package are
other ingredients that are used to identify, enhance and attract. The manner in which the
product is packaged geometrically is a big factor in enhancing the appeal of the garment. The
utility of the package is a big factor in attracting the consumers. The artistic value of a
package is another persuader which attracts consumer.

Vacuum Packaging
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The function of a vacuum packaging is:

 To reduce the shipping bulk of unfinished garments

 To reduce the shipping weight of garments shipped
 To prevent a garment from accumulating dust or objectionable odours before and
during shipping
 To prevent garments from acquiring wrinkles or creases, during shipping, this will
have to be removed before the retailer displays the garments
 To minimize storage space for both the manufacturer and retailer
Vacuum packaging is used not only for packing and storing garments, but also for
packaging household accessories made from textiles, such as blankets, bedspreads, pillows
and towels-anything with bulk that can be easily compressed.
Vacuum packaging was introduced in the 1970s by Swematex AB, of Ganghester,
Sweden. (Rheemes Textile Systems, Inc., New York City, is the U.S. licensee for this
equipment.) The system consists of:

 Reducing the moisture content of the garment;

 Encasing the garment in a plastic film sack; after which
 The air in the sack and garment are vacuumed out as the garment is compressed
within
 Which is sealed at the end of the vacuum and compression cycle.
The moisture content is removed by passing the hung garment on a conveyor through a
conditioning chamber which decreases the moisture content of the garment with hot dry.
Shipment Packaging
The shipment package performs the distributors function. It is the package the carrier
receives and delivers to the retailer. It delivers the merchandise package to the retailer (or the
wholesaler).Shipping packing’s may be divided into the classes with respect to the protection
from

 Closed containers carrying garments

1. covered completely individually by a merchandising package (closed merchandising

packages)
2. without a covering merchandising package (an open merchandising package)

 Open containers carrying garments

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1. In closed merchandising packages,

2. In open merchandising packages.
Costs, suits, or dresses transported without individual covers on hangers, suspended from
portable hanger racks, are examples of open merchandising packages carried in open
containers. Cartons with hanger racks. “Hanger Pac”, are examples of closed containers
designed to carry the garments in open or closed merchandising packages. In fact, any
shipping packages can carry open or closed merchandising packages.
In order to protect and preserve the merchandise package and its garment during the
distribution process, the shipping package can be designed to do the following:

 Fusion, (2) separate, (3) brace, and (4) ward for water and dirt. A shipping package is
proper when it prevents normal loads and pressures exerted on it, during the distribution
process, from damaging the merchandise package or its garments.

PACKAGING AND SHIPPING EQUIPMENT

Packaging Materials

 Plastic clip
 Paper board
 Wooden Boxes and Crates
 Butterfly
 Plastic collar
 Tag pin
 Ball head pin
 Poly bag
 Inner box
 Tissue paper
 Carton

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 Scotch tape

FUNCTIONS OF PACKAGING
The various functions of packaging are divided into primary, secondary and tertiary
functions. In contrast with the primary functions, which primarily concern the technical
nature of the packaging, secondary functions relate to communications. Primary, secondary
and tertiary functions are divided into the following sub-functions

PRIMARY FUNCTIONS

 Protective function
The protective function of packaging essentially involves protecting the contents from the
environment and vice versa. The inward protective function is intended to ensure full
retention of the utility value of the packaged goods. The packaging is thus intended to protect
the goods from loss, damage and theft.
In addition, packaging must also reliably be able to withstand the many different static
and dynamic forces to which it is subjected during transport, handling and storage operations.
The goods frequently also require protection from climatic conditions, such as temperature,
humidity, precipitation and solar radiation, which may require “inward packaging measures”
in addition to any “outward packaging measures”.
The outward protection provided by the packaging must prevent any environmental
degradation by the goods. This requirement is of particular significance in the transport of
hazardous materials, with protection of humans being of primary importance. The packaging
must furthermore as far as possible prevent any contamination, damage or other negative
impact upon the environment and other goods.
The inward and outward protective function primarily places demands upon the strength,
resistance and leak proof properties of transport packaging.

 Storage function
The packaging materials and packaging containers required for producing packages must
be stored in many different locations both before packaging of the goods and once the
package contents have been used. Packaging must thus also fulfill a storage function.
 Loading and transport function
Convenient goods handling entails designing transport packaging in such a manner that it
may be held, lifted, moved, set down and stowed easily, efficiently and safely. Packaging
thus has a crucial impact on the efficiency of transport, handling and storage of goods.

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Packaging should therefore be designed to be easily handled and to permit space-saving

storage and stowage. The shape and strength of packages should be such that they may
not only be stowed side by side leaving virtually no voids but may also be stowed safely
one above the other.
The most efficient method of handling general cargo is to make up cargo units. Packaging
should thus always facilitate the formation of cargo units; package dimensions and the masses
to be accommodated should where possible be tailored to the dimensions and load-carrying
capacity of standard pallets and containers.
Where handling is to be entirely or partially manual, packages must be easy to pick up
and must be of a suitably low mass. Heavy goods must be accommodated in packages which
are well suited to mechanical handling. Such items of cargo must be forkliftable and be
provided with convenient load-bearing lifting points for the lifting gear, with the points being
specially marked where necessary (handling marks).
The loading and transport function places requirements upon the external shape of the
package, upon the mass of the goods accommodated inside and upon the convenient use of
packaging aids. The strength of the package required for stowing goods on top of each other
demonstrates the close relationship between the loading and transport function and the
protective function.

SECONDARY FUNCTIONS

 Sales function
The purpose of the sales function of a package is to enable or promote the sales process
and to make it more efficient.
 Promotional function
Promotional material placed on the packaging is intended to attract the potential
purchaser’s attention and to have a positive impact upon the purchasing decision.
Promotional material on packaging plays a particularly important role on sales packaging
as it is directly addressed to the consumer. This function is of subordinate significance in
transport packaging. While product awareness is indeed generated along the transport
chain, excessive promotion also increases the risk of theft.
 Service function
The various items of information printed on packaging provide the consumer with details
about the contents and use of the particular product. Examples are the nutritional details
on yogurt pots or dosage information on medicines.

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The package may also perform a further function once the contents have been used (e.g.
storage container, toy).

 Guarantee funcion
By supplying an undamaged and unblemished package, the manufacturer guarantees that
the details on the packaging correspond to the contents. The packaging is therefore the
basis for branded goods, consumer protection and product liability. There are legislative
requirements which demand that goods be clearly marked with details indicating their
nature, composition, weight, quantity and storage life.

TERTIARY FUNCTIONS

 Additional function
The additional function in particular relates to the extent to which the packaging materials
or packaging containers may be reused once the package contents have been used. The
most significant example is the recycling of paper, paperboard and cardboard packaging
as waste paper.

AUTOMATIC PACKAGING MACHINES

 THERMOSOL PV38
 ACCUTECH Autofulfillment™ SPrint™ System
 Autobag AB 180

Autobag AB 180

 The Autobag AB 180 OneStep is uniquely designed to provide flexible solutions for
dynamic packaging environments, such as mail order fulfillment, short production run,
and build-on-demand operations
 By positioning the PI 412c imprinter directly over the next bag to be loaded, the AB
180 OneStep prints and indexes in a single-step – virtually eliminating bag waste and
product queuing

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