2 Simple Induction Heater Circuits - Hot Plate Cookers - Homemade Circuit Projects
2 Simple Induction Heater Circuits - Hot Plate Cookers - Homemade Circuit Projects
2 Simple Circuit
Homemade Induction Heater Circuits – Hot Plate
Projects
Cookers
Last Updated on September 1, 2019 by Swagatam (https://www.homemade-circuits.com/author/swag/)
In this post we learn 2 easy to build induction heater circuits which work with high frequency
magnetic induction principles for generating substantial magnitude of heat over a small specified
radius.
The discussed induction cooker circuits are truly simple and uses just a few active and passive
ordinary components for the required actions.
Update: You may also want to learn how to design your own customized induction heater
cooktop:
Designing an Induction Heater Circuit - Tutorial (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2016/09/designing-induction-heater-circuit.html)
During this process electrons inside iron are unable to move as fast as the frequency, and this
gives rise to a reverse current in the metal termed as eddy current. This development of high
eddy current ultimately causes the iron to heat up.
The generated heat is proportional to (current)^2 x resistance of the metal. Since the load
metal is supposed to be made up of iron, we consider the resistance R for the metal iron.
Heat = I2 x R (Iron)
The above heat is also directly proportional to the induced frequency and that's why ordinary
iron stamped transformers are not used in high frequency switching applications, instead ferrite
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However here the above drawback is exploited for acquiring heat from high frequency magnetic
induction.
Referring to the proposed induction heater circuits below, we find the concept utilizing the ZVS
or zero voltage switching technology for the required triggering of the MOSFETs.
The technology ensures minimum heating of the devices making the operation very efficient and
effective.
Further to add, the circuit being self resonant by nature automatically gets sets at the resonant
frequency of the attached coil and capacitor quite identical to a tank circuit.
The functioning of the circuit could be understood with the following points:
1. When power is switched ON, positive current begins flowing from the two halves of the
work coil towards the drains of the mosfets.
2. At the same the supply voltage also reaches the gates of the mosfets turning them ON.
3. However due to the fact that no two mosfets or any electronic devices can have exactly
similar conducting specifications, both mosfets do not turn on together, rather one of them
turns ON first.
4. Let's imagine T1 turns ON first. When this happens, due to heavy current flowing through
T1, its drain voltage tends to drop to zero, which in turn sucks out the gate voltage of the
other mosfet T2 via the attached schottky diode.
5. Here, it may seem that T1 might continue to conduct and destroy itself.
6. However, this is the moment when the L1C1 tank circuit comes into action and plays a
crucial part. The sudden conduction of T1 causes a sine pulse to spike and collapse at the
drain of T2. When the sine pulse collapses, it dries down the gate voltage of T1, and shuts
it down This results in a rise in voltage at the drain of T1 which allows a gate voltage to
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it down. This results in a rise in voltage at the drain of T1, which allows a gate voltage to
restore for T2. Now, its the turn of T2 to conduct, T2 now conducts, triggering a similar kind
of repetition that occurred for T1.
7. This cycle now continues rapidly causing the circuit to oscillate at the resonant frequency
of the LC tank circuit. The resonance automatically adjusts to an optimal point depending
on how well the LC values are matched.
However the main downside of the design is that it employs a center tapped coil as the
transformer, which makes the winding implementation a bit trickier. However the center tap
allows an efficient push pull effect over the coil through just a couple of active devices such as
mosfets.
As can be seen, there are fast recovery or high speed switching diodes connected across the
gate/source of each mosfet.
These diodes perform the important function of discharging the gate capacitance of the
respective mosfets during their non-conducting states thereby making the switching operation
snappy and quick.
ZVS stands for zero voltage switching, meaning, the mosfets in the circuit switch ON when they
have minimum or amount of current or zero current at their drains, we have already learned this
from the above explanation.
This actually helps the mosfets to switch ON safely and thus this feature becomes very
advantageous for the devices.
This feature could be compared with the zero crossing conduction for triacs in AC mains
circuits.
Due to this property the mosfets in ZVS self resonant circuits such as this require much smaller
heatsinks and can work even with massive loads upto 1 kva.
Being resonant by nature, the frequency of the circuit is directly dependent on the inductance of
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f = 1 / ( 2π * √[L * C] )
The MOSFETs
You can use IRF540 as the mosfets which are rated at good 110V, 33amps. Heatsinks could be
used for them, although the heat generated is not to any worrying level, yet still it's better to
reinforce them on heat absorbing metals. However any other appropriately rated N channel
MOSFETs can be used, there are no specific restrictions for this.
The inductor or inductors associated with the main heater coil (work coil) is a kind of choke that
helps eliminating any possible entry of the high frequency content into the power supply and
also for restricting the current to safe limits.
The value of this inductor should be much higher compared to the work coil. A 2mH is generally
quite enough for the purpose. However it must be built using high gauge wires for facilitating a
high current range through it safely.
The first design explained below is a highly efficient ZVS induction concept based on the
popular Mazilli driver theory.
It uses a single work coil and a two current limiter coils. The configuration avoids the need of a
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center tap from the main work coil thus making the system extremely effective and rapid heating
of load with formidable dimensions. The heating coil heats the load through a full bridge push
pull action
The module is actually available online and can be easily bought at a very reasonable cost.
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The working principle is the same ZVS technology, using two high power MOSFETs. The supply
input can be anything between 5V and 12V, and current from 5 amps to 20 amps depending on
the load used.
Power Output
The power output from the above design can be as high as 1200 watts, when the input voltage
is raised up to 48V, and current up to 25 amps.
At this level the heat generated from the work coil can be high enough to melt a 1 cm
thick bolt within a minute.
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Video Demo
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The capacitor as discussed above must be ideally connected as close as possible to the L1
terminals. his is important for sustaining the resonant frequency at the specified 200kHz
frequency.
Even after this the coil could be subjected to extreme heats, and could get deformed due to it
therefore an alternative method of winding it may be tried.
In this method we wind it in the form of two separate coils joined at the center for acquiring the
required center tap.
In this method lesser turns may be tried for reducing the impedance of the coil and in turn
increase its current handling capability.
The capacitance for this arrangement may be in contrast increased in order to pull down the
resonant frequency proportionately.
Tank Capacitors:
In all 330nF x 6 could be used for acquiring a net 2uF capacitance approximately.
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Parts list for the above induction heater circuit or induction hot plate circuit
T1, T2 = IRF540
C1 = 10,000uF/25V
C2 = 2uF/400V made by attaching the below shown 6nos 330nF/400V caps in parallel
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A simple alternative to this may be in the form of BC547 transistors connected instead of the
diodes as shown in the following diagarm.
The transistors would perform the same function as the diodes since the BC547 can operate
well around 1Mhz frequencies.
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Parts List
R1, R4 = 1K 1/4 watt MFR 1%
R2, R3 = 10K 1/4 watt MFR 1%
D1, D2 = BA159 or FR107
Z1, Z2 = 12V, 1/2 watt zener diodes
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How L2 is Built
The following section of the article explains, how the above idea can be modified and used like
a simple small induction cookware heater circuit or an induction kadai circuit.
The design is a low tech, low power design, and may not be on par with the conventional units.
The circuit was requested by Mr. Dipesh Gupta
Technical Specifications
Sir,
I have read ur article Simple Induction Heater Circuit - Hot Plate Cooker Circuit And was very
happy to find that there are people ready to help youngsters like us to do something ....
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Sir I am trying to understand the working and trying to develop an induction kadai for myself ...
Sir please help me understanding the designing as I m nt so good in electronics
I want to develop an induction to heat up a kadai of dia 20 inch with 10khz frequency at a very
low cost !!!
I saw your diagrams and article but was a bit confused about
1. Transformer used
2. How to make L2
3. And any other changes in the circuit for 10 to 20 kHz frequency with 25ams current
Please help me sir as soon as possible ..It will be help full if u could provide with the exact
components detail needed .. PlzzAnd lastly u had mentioned to use POWER SUPPLY: Use
regulated 15V 20 amp DC power supply. Where is it used ....
Thanks
Dipesh gupta
The Design
The proposed induction kadai circuit design presented here is just for experimental purpose and
may not serve like the conventional units. It may be used for making a cup of tea or cooking an
omelet quickly and nothing more should be expected.
The referred circuit was originally designed for heating iron rod like objects such as a bolt head.
a screwdriver metal etc, however with some modification the same circuit can be applied for
heating metal pans or vessels with convex base like a "kadai".
For implementing the above, the original circuit wouldn't need any modification, except the main
working coil which will need to be tweaked a bit to form a flat spiral instead of the spring like
arrangement.
As an example, in order to convert the design into an induction cookware so that it supports
vessels having a convex bottom such as a kadai, the coil must be fabricated into a spherical-
helical shape as given in the figure below :
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(https://homemade-
circuits.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/inductionkadaicoil-1.png)
The schematic would be the same as explained in my above sevction, which is basically a
Royer based design, as shown here:
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(https://homemade-circuits.com/wp-
content/uploads/2014/08/spiralinductioncoil-1.png)
The actual induction heater circuit is quite basic with its design and does not need much of an
explanation, the few things that needs to be taken care of are as follows:
The resonance capacitor must be relatively closer to the main working coil L1 and should be
made by connecting around 10nos of 0.22uF/400V in parallel. The capacitors must be strictly
non-polar and metalized polyester type.
Although the design may look quite straightforward, finding the center tap within the spirally
wound design could pose some headache because a spiral coil would have an unsymmetrical
layout making it difficult to locate the exact center tap for the circuit.
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About Swagatam
Your email:
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Comments
sedigh hosein says
hello dear sir i built the first one successfully and paralleled three MOSFETs on each side and increased the
number of capacitors to increase the
work coil power,to melt gold brass and copper i put a crucible that is built from graphite that is a kind of the great
ferromagnetic that resulted to thawing
and melting the three metals through overheating of the crucible and the heat transferred to the metals,and by
pouring and flowing water into the coil pipe
of course without salt that is distilled water,i have a few questions that i am very confused and could not figure
out
the first is how this circuit discover that it has to equalize the L resistor and the C capacitor by varying the
frequency in order to minimize current
and follow it maximum power,,the second one this is that whether by placing Ferrite on the outer side of the
cylindrical coil can the
furnace power be increased by reducing the eruption and magnetic field dispersion and and follow it raising
inductance,,
the third one is that how i can melt steel and iron of course i have to consider removing graphite crucible and
instead of the i must use an ceramic
crucible without ferromagnetic elements
Reply
Thank you Sedigh, I am glad you could upgrade the first circuit into a high power induction heater. To limit
current or reduce current you can try increasing the number of turns of L2 and L3…the resonance cannot be
decreased since the design is a self resonating circuit.
The first design is the recommended one and I think you should proceed working with this design
Reply
thanks a lot for your quick reply dear sir but i wanted to know “”whether exist a few ferrite around the work
coil could increase the power of the furnace ??””and consequently results a decrease of current due to
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coil could increase the power of the furnace ?? and consequently results a decrease of current due to
removing eruption dispersion and help to boost transferring whole of the magnetic field to inside coil for
producing eddy current as a result raising efficiency and decrease consumption current
Reply
Hi Sedigh, I don’t think that would work, the only way to increase heat and reduce current is by matching
the resonance….no other method might work other than resonance.
Reply
Anurag says
Can I use a triac light dimmer circuit with a bridge rectifier for powering this induction heater.
Reply
Reply
Can I use a triac based power supply by using bta41 triac for 30v 40amp. Also I don’t have large ferrite torroid
nor a rod. So can I use 2 instead of 1 connected in series.
Reply
Reply
D RAMESH says
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D Ramesh ,
I tried earlier royer oscillator carrying irfp260 n mosfets when 35mm curcible of graphite loaded 15 percent in
side coil both of mosfet gate leg deep burnt ,operating under 24 dc before working good with small knife red hot
, secondly i brought out the mosfets seperately into an al sink big and both back sinks electrical insulated and
fixed in aluminum ( old arc welding mch sink i used) is this wrong .any how if this melting circuit for is available
give me details
Reply
D RAMESH says
Reply
Dear Ramesh, you can use the circuit explained above, and modify the iron nail into a C channel shaped iron
cavity, and then melt gold inside this channel.
Reply
D RAMESH says
Reply
Adrián says
Good afternoon friend greetings, in advance congratulations on your contribution .. I would like to know more
or less how much is the capacity of the working coil with the metal already inside the coil… Since my circuit
does not oscillate
Reply
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Hi, the metal inside the coil should be strictly an iron metal, and it can be of any thickness. You can
actually buy one ready made unit and see how it is built to replicate it again. The capacity of the working
coil is around 500 watts.
Reply
Chethan says
If I have to heat a metal pipe of about 25 cm in length and and 1cm diameter,will this design be good enough??
Also can u make a video of explanation of the circuit because I didnt understand fully well
Reply
The portion of the pipe within the coil will heat up quickly, but the remaining portion of the pipe may take time
to heat. The pipe must be ferromagnetic
Please specify what you did not understand, I’ll try to help!
Reply
Raja says
Nice article for understanding induction heat, Thanks for this presentation,
Reply
Reply
Mans says
Dear master
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If I want to make a more powerful induction heater that can heat a voluminous iron rod in a high temperature
what I must to do? Is it possible making such a heater? So what would be the circuit?
Reply
Hi Mans, for powerful heater you will have to upgrade the mosfets with higher rating, and use thicker tubes or
wires for all the coils. Similarly the capacitors will also need to be rated with higher current values.
Reply
Reply
Reply
vhafuwi says
Nice, Can I use two solar panel rated 10 Amp each as DC power source
Reply
Reply
Lm324n says
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Sir i made zvs circuit using 70t036h 60 amp mosfet and used 12v 20 ampere powersupply but my mosfets are
getting really hot i don’t know why. but it does work and i dont think it will work for more than 5 secs as it will fry
entire circuit.
I used 560 ohm resistor instead of 330 ohm for gate driving and didn’t used lm7812 since i am using constant
voltage
Reply
LM324,
for the above circuits, mosfet will typically heat up due to the following reasons:
I think you should try reducing the gate resistance to 100 ohms or even lower.
I hope you have used fast recovery diodes at the gates of the mosfets?
Use a variable voltage power supply and try tweaking the voltage input and check which combinations
produces the best resonance, using that as the reference keep adjusting the voltage and the L1/L2 turns until
the optimal value is determined at the maximum voltage range.
Reply
Lm324n says
Reply
No that cannot the cause, I have already explained the main reasons in my earlier comment please go
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Reply
loki says
Sir i used 5 pairs on 13007 transistor instead of the mosfet you said in the diagram and for the inductor i made
10 wound of coil around ferrite transformer and the circuit worked when i connected it to variable power supply
made using lm317t but when i connected to my 12v 5 amp battery it didn’t worked. Sir can you please help me
to make this work
Reply
Hi Loki, what are trying to make?? If you are trying to make an induction heater then your set up will not
work, you will have to do everything exactly as recommended in the above article and diagrams.
Reply
loki says
Reply
Loki, if you do it with proper understanding using all the mentioned parameters correctly then it will
definitely work.
remember to use fast recovery diodes at the gates of the mosfets
Reply
loki says
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Reply
Sir, Thanks for great design. I want to make 250 watt induction hot plate. what changes I would have to make in
this circuit. What can be the design of heating coil?
Reply
Thanks Ravindra,
I have explained the details in the following tutorial, you can read it customize the design as per your
preferred requirement.
https://homemade-circuits.com/designing-induction-heater-circuit/ (https://homemade-circuits.com/designing-
induction-heater-circuit/)
Reply
good
Reply
Reply
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yes you can, but you will have to modify the coil into a pancake style
Reply
Reply
Febry says
Mr. swagatam.can this tool to heat 4 liters of water in the pipe 4 “?? Thank you
Reply
Febry, if the water is passed very slowly, then probably it will work….the copper coil itself could be used as
the pipe….
Reply
Dear sir… if i can get help from you having the Induction heater schematic that does not use Mosfets and also
the Inverter 500watts+ it will help a lot… i have a lot of problems laying hands on mosfets in my location.
Reply
Dear Deogratia, you can try the following concept and see if it works fr you
https://homemade-circuits.com/2017/01/high-current-wireless-battery-charger.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2017/01/high-current-wireless-battery-charger.html)
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it is a wireless electricity transmitter but the same an be implemented for induction heating
Reply
i also came accross this project on your wall… please i will like to ask if this is a 500watts 220vac inverter that
can be use for homes.
here is the link below.
3.bp.blogspot.com/-
oyXtDjDRk84/VGB2oRtPPhI/AAAAAAAAIjE/irHRQ5SPagI/s1600/48%2BV%2Binverter%2Bcircuit.png
i wait your reply and thanks for the great stuff's you have on your page.
Reply
No it cannot be used for all home appliances since it is a square wave type…but as far as power output is
concerned it will be able to provide 500 watt easily
Reply
Thanks for the feedback, i will be having problems finding parts like mosfet transistors in my location where i
live, so please can you help me with a easy sine wave inverter schematic that can deliver 500+ watts just like
the one i talked about? thanks for your understandings.
Reply
a sine wave schematic that works with the same tip35 and tip122 that can deliver +500watts is what i am
seeking for my project…i see it's like sine wave works with nearly every equipment
Reply
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https://homemade-circuits.com/2013/10/pure-sine-wave-inverter-circuit-using.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2013/10/pure-sine-wave-inverter-circuit-using.html)
Reply
Dear sir.
How many turns should L1 and L2 be? i wish to use this for my cloth dryer project.
please i need your help on that.
Thanks.
Reply
Dear Deogratia, please go through the article explanation, diagrams, and the comments, I have already
explained L1/L2 details elaborately
Reply
Dear sir,
I need your help . I’m using preethi induction stove. My problem (2uF 275VAC Class X2 Box Type Capacitor)
capacitor was Busted but my area only available in (2.2uF 275VAC Class X2 Box Type Capacitor) may I use
2.2uF this capacitor
thank you
Reply
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Reply
Sir,
. I have done first circuit by considering all the parameters you have told , it took 5 ferrite rod (each 20cm in
length) by winding 1.5 mm copper wire to get 2mH by verifying on LCR meter , and even exat value 6 capacitor
connected across parallel as mentioned in the article by giving 2uF , and finaly connected to a battery (12v/
80ah) no sooner I cgave power supply one of the mosphet reches to a verry high temperature and blow off and
other remain cool and this happens within 5-6 seconds
I tried 4times the same circuit , evey time mospfet blow off , ialso used heatsinks
Reply
Adithya, why did you use 5 ferrite rods? The coil must be wound over a single ferrite rod…if you do anything
randomly as per your wish, then you will keep blowing the devices.
did you connect the LC tank as indicated in the 3rd diagram from top??
the L2 must a be neatly wound inductor over a single ferrite rod, the shape does not matter.
secondly your circuit must begin self resonating, and this will strictly depnd on the value of the LC tank circuit
and the voltgae.
you must begin with a low volatge may be around 6V and then gradually increase it until you have the best
possible results.
while doing this you must have an ammeter connected i series with the input supply, and you just have a iron
rod inserted through the work coil. This iron could be any 2cm thick iron bolt, or a 2cm thick screwdriver
spindle.
the voltage should be tweaked in a such a way that it results in minimum current consumption and maximum
heat on the rod…..a temperature meter could be installed with the iron rod fr monitoring the heat as the
voltage is gradually increased….at some point you might find that the current is increasing, and heat going
down this is point where you must stop, until this sweet point is not reached you must keep adjusting the
voltage with some trial and error
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Hi Asanthan, that may be possible, however for sealing plastic, ordinary heater coil would be much hassle-free
and efficient.
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Hi sir. Can I use this system to make an induction sealer. Is this enough to seal aluminum foil lid with plastic cup.
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Hello, the circuit explained in the above article cannot be used with 220V mains or any high voltage above
24V, you have to calculate the parameters specifically for getting the required results from your design.
You can take the help of this article to create a specialized circuit for as per the mentioned specs:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2016/09/designing-induction-heater-circuit.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2016/09/designing-induction-heater-circuit.html)
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Sir,
. I used 2.5mF / 450v tank capacitor and I used ferrite rod and wound 100 rounds of 1mm copper wire and I
connected L1 with insulated coper wire to the second circuit by using transitor and power supply with high
guage copper wire to 12v80ah battery and as soon as I supply power , wire (from L1 to circuit )started melting
and copper wire arround ferrite rod went to a verry high temperature ,
Can u suggest a solution to my problem
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use 6 nos of 330nF/400V capacitors in parallel for making the 2uF capacitor, and connect them parallel with
the work coil tube ends.
the work coil must be built using copper tubes or very thick copper wires.
don't use the last circuit, it's only a suggestion and needs to be experimented… use the first circuit with
schotky diodes.
for more info you can refer to youtube videos…there are plenty of videos which will show you how configure
the above type of circuits.
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Dear swagatam,
Do you know or can design a electronic circuit to mesure the real magnetic field strength. Generated in the coil.
I amen how much mIliTesla i have ?, Thank you in advance
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Hi Guillermo, I think the circuit can be configured using a Hall effect sensor and an opamp stage, if possible
I'll try to publish a design soon.
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Sir
Can i use 12v 80ah battery as input,if not any alternative by using this battery
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hey swagatam im having isues with designing a mini induction heater can i use a set of irfz44n transistors for
building a small zvs driver and if possible can you give me a half bridge schematic!
Frank:
Reply
Hi Frank, you can try the first circuit from this article
https://homemade-circuits.com/2014/11/solar-induction-heater-circuit.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2014/11/solar-induction-heater-circuit.html)
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- S i R i S h - (https://www.blogger.com/profile/14444008847562341559) says
Hi, thanks for the explanation. Really helpful stuff. I'm trying to make a heating circuit using Li-ion 3.7V battery.
The end result is to heat a small piece of stainless steel. Don't know if I can use this technique as the battery
power isn't that much. If I can please guide me how and if not , can you provide an alternative ? I'm looking at
resistive heating
Reply
you will require at least may be 300 to 500 watts of power for melting a piece of steel which cannot be
achieved from a 3.7v cell
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- S i R i S h - (https://www.blogger.com/profile/14444008847562341559) says
I don't need to actually melt it. Just to heat it to a temp of around 200deg C. timing isnt crucial. But yes cell
power is way too less I think for the application.
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HI, It's possible to melt steel on this kind of power? How could you increase the power by adding more mosfits?
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It my be possible if the mosfets are appropriately upgraded with higher current ratings and the supply is also
proportionately increased with higher current capacity.
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Hello
what is the maximum temperature which our metallic target reach inside the coil?
and i wanna to know moreover current , what parameters effect on the final temperature (like frequency, voltage
, coil diameter , etc) ?
i assembled your designing circle , and the frequency has a tolerance between 70 to 120 kHz,can you give me
an advise what's the matter?
i really appreciate it in advance.
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Hello, it will depend on the input current and the coil wire thickness, and also the voltage level, higher
parameters will allow higher temperatures and vice versa…..
it's a self-resonating type of circuit, and the frequency will adjust as per the inductor efficiency…..a better
optimized coil will enable better resonance and proportionately more heat.
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No, the voltage at drain will be above zero only when the device is not conducting, and will be zero the
moment it starts conducting.
the work coil definitely needs to be mounted on a core otherwise the resonance will never happen and the
devices could get damaged.
the core here is the metal which is being heated, that is the iron bolt or rod whatever it may be.
the capacitors, the coil and the iron core together forms a "tank" circuit which reaches the resonance level
during the operations and causes the desired heating effect.
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sorry not sure about this analysis, since I am not able to simulate it in my mind
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Hi, since both the fets cannot switch ON together due to the slight difference in their switching characteristics,
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This enables T1 to initiate the process and it eventually ends up shutting off in the same manner…the cycle
keeps regenerating and continues rapidly giving rise to the required phenomenon…
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Hi Swagatam, i love your projects and my son regularly builds them at school in science lessons.
i lastly got him the parts to build a simple Royer style induction heater working from 12v DC but i wonder could
your simple inverter circuit using the IR 2153 from 12v DC be changed to build a more exciting and challenging
induction circuit ? would it be as simple as adding capacitors to the secondary with working coil?
i thank you in anticipation.
regards Kevin
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my simple inverter circuit is quite similar to the above induction heater concept, so if we try to modify it will
ultimately take the shape of the above design.
However the 50 watt mosfet inverter circuit from this website can be definitely tried for making a versatile and
a more flexible induction heater circuit:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2012/09/mini-50-watt-mosfet-inverter-circuit.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2012/09/mini-50-watt-mosfet-inverter-circuit.html)
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Yes Hi Swagatam, a very interesting self oscillating circuit i will build it one day.
However my aim is to get Dan (my son ) to build something more controllable which is why i mentioned the IR
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However my aim is to get Dan (my son ) to build something more controllable which is why i mentioned the IR
2153 controller, i would like him to achieve some shutdown / protection techniques either with current a
transformer or other direct circuitry and from what i have seen of this IC it does most of this, so if there is any
chance of further guidance in this direction i would very much appreciate it.
It does not have to be very powerful but a nice little controllable safe circuit, as in over current and short circuit
protection these are the techniques that i would like Dan to start learning.
regards Kevin.
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sorry Kev, I completely missed the IR2153, the thought you were referring to this circuit:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2012/02/how-to-make-simplest-inverter-circuit.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2012/02/how-to-make-simplest-inverter-circuit.html)
OK, so referring to the IR2153 design, it can be enhanced with a current control feature by using an ordinary
BC547 and a current sensing resistor network across its shutdown Ct pin, this will make sure that the fets
can never conduct current above a specified limit
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Hi,
for a school project i need to construct an AC induction cooktop and was wondering if you could help me put
together a part list for a much weaker induction cooktop than yours, it only has to warm up a few ML's of water.
is this something that is possible?
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Hi, I'll try to explain the design in a new article and post it soon…
Reply
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Hi, I am glad you could succeed with the above project, but I am sorry I am not entirely sure about the
mathematical details of this concept…
If you wish you can send the working details of the project with pictures and get paid for the submission, I'll
publish it in my website.
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Initially you should try with a lower voltage may be around 12V, if everything goes well then you can increase it
to higher levels for acquiring higher heating ranges.
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L2 will need to be built by winding 22 SWG enameled copper wire until you reach a 2mH value. the current
could be around 10 to 20 amps through L2
there are some good videos in Youtube which you can see for a clearer view of the procedures.
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Hi, Have you ever done or thought to a circuit relevant an induction heater with a function generator as a
controller?
The sense of this request is that I wish to build an induction cooker circuit with the possibilities to verify the
frequency value, through my function generator I’m able to achieve a few KHz to a few MHz; my problem is How
can I feed the cooker coil without a sort of amplifier? The power after function generator isn't sufficient to feed
the coil. In other terms I wish to implement this: Function Generator -> Electronic -> Cooker Coil. Have you got
any idea?
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Hi, I have a similar one circuit in this website you can see it below:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2013/12/induction-heater-circuit-using-igbt.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2013/12/induction-heater-circuit-using-igbt.html)
but without a current amplifier driving the work coil is not possible, therefore power devices will be required
for generating the specified amount of heat from the coil.
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Dear sir
im using index sun pijeon rapido my problem is contin.. sart bip sound and disply no 3 back on wrong side so
please solve my problem
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hi Swagatam, Thank you for The circuit. I have a question and a clue. I want to measure the magnetic field in
the working coil. As the frequency is higth, i don't know how to measure. Could you help me ? How Many tesla
or mili tesla. can produce. (B) it is possible to measure or calculated. Thank you in advance
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Hi Guillermo, I do not have this circuit at the moment but will to include it soon, if it's possible for me.
Reply
Dear Swagatam,
can i make this for smaller diameter of induction coil as small as 5 mm to 1 cm wide to heating a small wire? i
need it for an experiment for microbiological purpose…
thank you
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Dear Prasetyo, the above design is a self resonating kind of circuit so I am not sure whether a coil with a
different dimension would automatically adjust with it…or what necessary modifications might be required.
you can try though by changing the L2 specs also, through experimentation
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it is a recommended value….it can be a matter of some trial and error when the final working circuit is built
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hii im onkar ,
i have made circuit using irfz44n ,diodes=1n5819
and used the power supply of 24v/10amp. with lm7812cv as vr,also i used 2x.47 uf capacitors
but when i start the supply my rectifer and choke coil gets too hot.and circuit does not work at all..
what would be the problem ??pls reply me sir
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Onkar, it will be difficult to troubleshoot because I do not know what mistake you might have made in it.
initially use a 200 watt bulb in series with transformer primary, and check whether the coil produces heat or
not….
the work coil needs to be built exactly as shown in the above figure, and same is true for the capacitor bank
you can check a few you tube videos on this subject and see how it's is implemented practically…
Reply
Hi know i am succdd
Thanks
But i like make coker heater
How to make coil ?
Reply
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hello Saiful, where did you use the zener diode, if you used it for the 7812 it might have got burnt and
shorted, make sure you use a 7812 IC as shown in the first diagram and not a zener diode….
if you use a 12V/15amp transformer you can get rid of the 7812.
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Hi, before I attempt to build this, what do you estimate as the total cost to build it?
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helo sir! my name is biniyam i'm from east africa, ethiopia,i'm universiity student
i sincerly ask u to help me om my semister project which is to replace "enjera"(which is staple food in ethiopia)
making stove with induction cooking system
Reply
Hello Biniyam, You can try the above explained concept first, if you succeed then we can appropriately
modify this into a cooker kind of heating system.
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I need your help to design a working induction heater model for my son studying in 8th standard
Please help
ramakrishnan
9821075029
Reply
if you follow everything exactly as suggested, you could make it work successfully without much effort.
however this project can be quite difficult for a school student.. as it might involve many complex
measurements, adjustments and other related procedures
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Hi
I have put a similar induction coil in a range cooker, instead of a circular cast iron hotplate, I have a circular plate
glass sitting in the old hotplate recess with the induction coil underneath, will the all the cast iron in the cooker
top affect the induction unit.
It worked for a while but now I am receiving an E0 error on the control panel, but I am going to switch to manual
control, Potenimeter I think? would this help Thanks.
Regards Denis.
Reply
Hi,
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sorry, I could not understand your question, do you mean you used a glass instead of cast iron and you are
wondering if that would affect the results, then probably the answer is yes, if the cooker is a non-magnetic
thing it won't react with the coil's magnetic induction and won't heat up.
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What is IC 1?
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It's IC 7812
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what about using 1n4148 or uf4007…which diodes would be better in this circuit?
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only the recommended ones will work…or any other "fast recovery" type.
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My requirement is heating water ,approx 170ml, upto 90○C. Would it be possible using above circuit?
If not what changes are required? Also would it be possible to run the above circuit on battery power?
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raspberrypi (https://www.blogger.com/profile/00063700764665727260) says
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plz let me know that which circuit diagram is right . as i run both but not working a single and i used 12v,10A
supply .
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i used cooker capacitor of 2uf instead of 330nf ,6pcs how much turns in coil L2 .
Reply
both the circuits are correct, but the first one is better recommended.
there are many related youtube videos, you can refer any of those for a detailed help.
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coil which generate heat is either l2 or l1 and how many turns are there for heat coil.
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let me know about the frequency of this as i want to calculate value of inductor
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let me know about the l1 coil turns and i have to use same wire or other bcoz temporary i used different copper
wire and let me know that can ckt run on 12v 10a
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i want to ask you that either this circuit is run in PROTEOUS 7 simulator becoz i m not getting output in that as
well as in real time circuit
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I have no idea regarding the simulation details, however the circuit has been already tested practically
successfully with no issues whatsoever
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Swagatam says
as you can see in the image, L1 consists of two separate coils made by curling two turns each of brass pipes
and then then by joining the center together…..so total it becomes 4 turns, but you can try 3 turns each to
make 6 turns.
please check the youtube videos you'll able to see these circuits in real and how these are configured and
tested to produce heat.
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hey swagatam i would like to thank you for updates but how many wound i have to take for
l1 and directly can i use 12v 10a power supply last question is iff i use ditto component then i get output
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l1 and directly can i use 12v 10a power supply last question is iff i use ditto component then i get output
otherwise no t
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i not get o/p plz i can't get output in proteou7s plz help me
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if 15amp is the breakdown limit of the choke then it will not do, if it's the optimal rating then it won't be a
problem.
I think the choke wire should be at least 2mm thick or made by using 2 strands of 1mm wire to be able to
withstand 15amps
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Hi thanks, D3—D6 can be any rectifier diode capable of handling 25amp current, you can inquire about it with
your local component dealer, he will know better and will guide you with the correct number.
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Hello,
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My application requires that the object being heated (will be very thin) can be inserted and removed through the
side of the coil, as both ends of that object will be fixed and unable to be pulled through the center of the coil.
Are you able to tell me if there is any way to construct this without a completely closed heating coil (i.e. with a C-
like cross-section instead of an O-shaped cross-section) to allow for side entry of a thin (~2mm diameter)
object?
Reply
Hello, I don't think that's feasible, one method could be by creating a flat spiral coil and then by introducing
the object close to the surface of the spiral.
An example spiral coil image may be witnessed in the third diagram below:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2014/08/making-small-induction-cookware.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2014/08/making-small-induction-cookware.html)
Reply
am working on this circuit from few weeks and am facing the same proble as soon as i turn on the supply the
current increses upto 40-70 amps and the mosfets blows up . am using irfz44n and 17v 10 amps power supplt
from a transformer( its basically a battery charger) am not using any choke please help me out, ? 🙁
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the choke (L2) is specifically introduced to limit current and to optimize resonance frequency, if you remove it
the circuit is bound to fry immediately.
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am working on this circuit from last few weeks but its not working as i expect it too. am using a coil of 12 gauge
9 turns center taped mosfet irfz44n 22uf 4 caps in parallel adn the voltage suply is 15 v 12 amps its from a
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9 turns center taped mosfet irfz44n ,22uf 4 caps in parallel adn the voltage suply is 15 v 12 amps its from a
transformer ( battery charger) as i turn on the circuit the the mosfets blows up within seconds seeps like shor
circuted help pe am not using any choke .
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Hey, great thread. I was wondering what changes would need to be made to the schematic and the induction
coil to work using 3.7vdc max 30amp load. This would obviously be used in a micro induction coil to heat small
objects such as a sewing needle. And suggestion on coil size, wrapping and component change on the
schematic would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Dan
Reply
thanks Dan, I think it may have to be done through some trial and error since I do not have a formula for
calculating the coil.
The only thing I know is that as the turns increase and the diameter decrease the operating frequency and
the current consumption also decrease proportionately, so on this basis you could probably do some
experimentation.
L2 and the other components except the voltage may not require a change as per my knowledge
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hi sir…we try the circuit using the power supply of the computer as the power supply to the circuit….in our first
try….the metal that we put on the middle of the working coil gets hot….but the mosfets gets hot too…..so we
decided to change the heatsink with bigger one……after changing we try it again…….and the metal dont get
hot……why is it happen sir??thanks for the reply
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Hi Christian, I guess this could be related to some frequency variations due to the introduction/removel of the
metal plate.
heating up of the msgfets might be hampering the generation of the resonance frequency which might be
getting corrected with the addition of the larger hetasink and resulting in an automatic correction of the
frequency.
by the way you are not supposed to put a metal inside the working coil, this might seriously affect the
functioning of the circuit
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but, is it ok that we use a power supply of a computer as the supply for this circuit?
what could you suggest sir for us to make this induction warmer work.?
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I'm sorry sir… the metal that we put inside the working is a screw driver just to test if it is working already,if the
working coil produce induction heat
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oh… that was quite silly of me, I completely forgot that a metal (magnetic) needs to be inserted inside the
work coil for implementing the design, make sure the heatsinks are perfectly aloof and are not touching
anything in the circuit….
any power supply will do as long as it's able to generate 15 to 20 amps for the circuit.
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good day sir…..in the 2 small diagram above…..the c1 and c2 are in different position…which capacitor do we
need to parallel in the l1?
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we use a power supply of a computer….if we use the bridge driver type circuit…do we still needed to parallel a
capacitor with the + and – of the power supply??
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If you are using a pure DC from an SMPS in that case C2 can be eliminated….
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Hi there,
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The inductance value is not crucial, you can make it as per the given instructions in the diagram, yes with
little modifications it can be converted for the pan type implementation.
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Hello sir,
what power has to be given to heat a coil?
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hello jayalaxmi,
the power specs are approximately 20V 15amps
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Sir,
Cant we heat the coil with Dc source using driver circuit??
I did an oscillator circuit of a supply of 24Vdc and 0.3A and got an output of 46MHz and 19v as peak to peak
voltage.
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Can we heat the coil with that frequency ?? what are the possible ways??
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Jayalaxmi, the coil is not supposed to heat, the vessel is supposed to get hot.
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hello
what is the exact use of transformer? it is impedance matching only? what can we use instead of transformer
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which transformer…TR1?
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sir
L1 copper wire gauge # kia hay
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L1 should be preferably a copper pipe having a outer diameter of about 1cm, using a pipe will enable water
to be circulated through it in order to keep the coil temp within limits
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dear sir I have a old induction heater coil . i want to use that coil . how can i use that coil for heat the panel.
please tell me with using simple words. thank you…,…
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Dear Kamaljeet, without seeing the coil it would be difficult to suggest anything, anyway a commercial
induction coil will require a sophisticated circuitry, much complex than the above published design…
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Thank You again, i will try the this circuit and let You knoe my progress. Cheers
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D S t th k hf th d t il f th t ti f thi i it I b ilt th h t d
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Dear Swagatam, thank you very much for the details of the construction of this circuit. I built the heater and
works well. I have a question related to the possibility to change the frequency of the system. I need differents
frequencies. And I am thinking of if possible to change Capacitor and L at the same time to get any frequency.
This is possible? Like for example 200Khz , 300 Khz, 400 and soon.
Also I would know how I can calculate the magnetic intensity of the system.
Thank you very much.
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Thanks Guillermo, the above circuit is a self resonant type of configuration so frequency cannot be changed
manually….you may have to incorporate an external oscillator circuit for implementing an adjustable
resonance, the following half bridge circuit could tried with the coil network explained in the above article for
achieving the same:
https://homemade-circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html)
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K..
I'LL CHECK IT OUT
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can i use a high rated transformer and then minimize the current and voltage by a rheostat.
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ty sir.
can i fed the circuit with directly 20 amp or i have to increase it gradually because the insulation of my wire
which are use for connection are burning along with mosfet.
what is the reason for the same
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increase it gradually, but if the mosfets are also burning it means the circuit is malfunctioning and there could
be a fault in the circuit
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Pratik, it means the circuit is drawing huge currents without load, something is incorrect in your circuit.
try a bridge driver type of circuit instead of the above self resonanat design for reliable results
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Hello sir,
Can we control the temperature of this circuit and can we use small lcd for viewing temperature
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Can we control the temperature of this circuit and can we use small lcd for viewing temperature.
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sir we are making induction heater ckt for academic project purpose so could u tell us about the length and turns
of L1,L2
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Can i pass the iron or steel tube(from which water which is to be heated) three to four times from the coil L1.
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k.
thanks sir
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Th k S t
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Thanks Swagatam
I made my induction heater successfully now i want to increase its power..
Can i increase power of this induction heater using more mosfets in parallel?
Please scheme a circuit for parallel combination.
Thanks
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Thanks Waqar, to increase power you may try increasing the input current and also the voltage, and upgrade
the mosfet with other higher rated ones, parallel combination may not be recommended.
You can select an appropriate mosfet pair from the following article
easydatasheets.blogspot.in/p/mosfets.html
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you can use a 1000 watt halogen lamp in series with the mains input to the transformer, this will ensure that
the initial amp intake does not exceed to dangerous levels.
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i have built one successfully but my capacitors tanks become very hot….
i am using parallel cap at single point and where the all cap meet(at single point) they get very hot.
should i mount capacitors on pipes at some distance?
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yes preferably the caps must be p;aced slightly away from the coil, may be a 6 inches distance will do.
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The configuration will remain as is. The resistors could be increased to 1K 10 watt (wirewound) each,
everything will need to be done through trial and error, though.
For the mosfets you can use IRF840, however since mains voltage is involved, the risks of an untoward
could be on the cards, I am not recommending use of 220V for this project.
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Hello Swatam
what changes I should make in the circuit to operate at 220V , two phases, each 110 V and a power of 6kW.
and I'm thinking to cool L1 and L2 with water that circulates inside
this is possible.
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Hello Paul,
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Sorry, I think that may not be recommended and could require more number of turns for L1/L2…I do not have
the data for calculating those.
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no, it should be @15V, amps is not important can be of any value (not less than 20amps)
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Sir, both terminal will be +ve? if yes then; where is -ve terminal? And in MOSFET source will be grounded or -
ve?
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only the mosfet sources will go to the negative of the supply, no other point of the circuit is connected to the
supply negative.
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Sir, this kind of power supply(15v, 20a)is not esily available in the market.So, at which minimum voltage and
current the circuit will be run?
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is it safe that my transformer that is rated 6A only is giving me up to 10A of current. Because i connected it to a
bridge rectifier and a 4700uF caps to make a dc power supply, then i successfully make the circuit work but
when I measured the current flowing to the transformer using a clamp meter, it gives me up to 10A depending
on the metal to be heated. is it still safe for the transformer producing greater current than its rating?
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if it's showing more than the specified amps of the transformer means the voltage is being dropped
proportionately in the course….so ultimately the total power is never being exceeded.
as far as the above circuit is concerned, the coil would handle current depending upon its thickness, if it's
correctly dimensioned it would be safe.
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Is there any alternative power supply? Cause its too expensive to buy a 20 A transformer then make it DC
supply. By the way, could I use a power supply with adjuster in order to control the temparature of the induction
coil?
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sorry there's no direct alternative for high current. You can reduce it proportionately by increasing the voltage,
but that would also require modifications in the work coil, the turns will need to be increased while the gauge
will need to reduced accordingly.
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thanks for the quick reply, I really want to learn more about induction heating. Where I can find a choke coil
required L2 because I can't find one of it in some electronics store here in my place, is it okay not to put L2? I
want to share my idea to you, I have a circuit design that I found in the internet to control temperature, how
can I share it to you?
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You won't get the coils readymade, you will have to hand make it as per the details shown in the images and
the article info.
You are welcome to share your ideas, please send it to [email protected] (mailto:[email protected])
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Hello Swagatam,
I have built my one successfully with DC power source of 18V connected to L2 while the other side keep 12V to
drive MOSFET. I am also connecting ammerter in series to L2 to monitor the current. With some bolts and nuts
or steel rod. They can turn red hot without problem. Current goes up from original L1 coil without anything inside
to some level according to the object inside the coil Somehow I try this with 1/2" diameter steel pipe with
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to some level according to the object inside the coil. Somehow, I try this with 1/2 diameter steel pipe with
0.5mm thickness. Current goes up and increasing. After a while when pipe is in red hot, current suddenly
increase very rapidly and FET burn-out. At this point, everything stop. I have to change FET as it was shorted
Drain-Source. I used IRFP250N and diode BYV26E, pretty high rated voltage and current but still failed. Do you
have any idea what I did wrong? Is this due to FET or Diode? Thanks.
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Helo Sitti,
Try the following circuit, set Rt, Ct for getting 200khz, use L2 in place of "L" and the L1 for RL.
https://homemade-circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html)
This circuit will never allow your mosfets to blow off, according to me.
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https://homemade-circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html (https://homemade-
circuits.com/2013/09/half-bridge-mosfet-driver-ic-irs21531d.html)
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hello swagatam.
Plz suggest a circuit to run cooling fan externally i bought a amplifier unit the heat sense fan stops automatically
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Plz suggest a circuit to run cooling fan externally. i bought a amplifier unit the heat sense fan stops automatically
after 1 minute. need a solid state cheap circuit to run fan directly from mains. (fan rated 12vdc 0.25amp 2.5w)
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Hello Max,
The only solution is to a use a readymade 12V ac/dc smps adapter rated at 500mA or 1amp current,
because you won't get below this rating.
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Not worked swgtm. the material not even heat up & both mosfets burnt out. it specified 200kHz frequency. So
can i use Astable multivibrator to set frequency 200Khz to drive the coils.
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Hi Max,
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The iron water pipe should pass through the center of the coil L1 as shown in the last diagram.
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Helo Salman,
Yes you can do it, but the pipe should be made of iron or steel (magnetic material)
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Hello sir can I use it for boiling a moving water from pipe.
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You can use BC547 transistor in place of the diodes. Connect base and collector together with the gate of the
mosfet and emitter to the drain of the other mosfet Remember this is only a suggestion
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mosfet, and emitter to the drain of the other mosfet. Remember this is only a suggestion…
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