Chapter - 3

Wood/timber Works
 Presentation Outline
3. Introduction
3.1. Seasoning/drying of wood
3.2. Wood preservation
3.3. Wood joints
 3. Introduction
• Wood is one of earth's most valuable resources and it
conforms to the most varied requirements.
• The word timber refers to the wood used for construction.
• Wood is divided, according to its botanical origin, into two kinds:
1. Softwoods - from coniferous trees
• Softwoods are lighter and generally simple in structure, whereas
2. Hardwoods - are from broad-leaved trees
• Harder and more complex.
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
• Seasoning is the process of reducing moisture content in a freshly
cut tree to the desired level.
Objectives of seasoning
1. Increase the durability by protecting it from fungi, insects
and other causes related to moisture content;
2. Impart hardness, stiffness, strength and resistance to electric
shocks
3. Maintain shape and size
4. Make it workable
5. Make it fit to receive painting
6. Make it suitable for gluing
7. Reduce the tendency of cracking and warping
8. Decrease weight and save transportation cost
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
Methods of seasoning
• There are two methods by which timber can be dried:
1) Natural drying or air drying, and
2) Artificial drying or kiln drying
1. Natural/Air drying/traditional method
• Air-drying is the drying of timber by exposing it to the air.
• The technique of air-drying consists mainly of making a stack of
sawn timber (with the layers of boards separated by stickers) on
raised foundations, in a clean, cool, dry and shady place.
• Rate of drying largely depends on climatic conditions, and on the
air movement (exposure to the wind).
• For successful air-drying, a continuous and uniform flow of air
throughout the pile of the timber needs to be arranged.
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
1. Natural/Air drying/traditional method
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
2. Artificial drying
• The various methods of artificial seasoning are:
a) Boiling
b) Kiln seasoning
c) Chemical seasoning
d) Electrical seasoning

a) Boiling
– In this method timber is immersed in water and then water is
boiled for 3-4 hours.
– Instead of boiling hot steam may be passed over the timber.
– Then it is dried slowly.
– This process of seasoning is fast but costly.
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
b) Kiln seasoning
– A kiln is an airtight chamber.
– In this timber to be seasoned is placed and hot air is pumped in.
– After moisture content is brought down, the temperature is
reduced and the chamber is allowed to cool.
– The process of kiln drying consists basically of introducing heat.
– For this purpose, the timber is stacked in chambers, called wood
drying kilns, which are fitted with equipment for manipulation
and control of the temperature and the relative humidity of the
drying air and its circulation rate through the timber stack
• The timber stacked in closed chamber
• Drying is faster, precise & better than air seasoning
• Takes 2-5 weeks
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
b) Kiln drying
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
c) Chemical seasoning
– It is also known as salt seasoning.
– In this method, the timber is dipped in a solution of sodium
chloride or sodium nitrate.
– The surface salt draws out inner moisture.
– This preliminary treatment by chemicals ensures uniform
seasoning across the section.
– It is then taken out and seasoned in the ordinary way.
 3.1. Seasoning or drying of wood
d) Electrical seasoning
– In this method, high frequency alternating current is passed
through the timber.
– Heat is introduced internally and the timber starts drying.
– As the moisture content reduces resistance to electricity
increases. The measure of resistance may be used to stop
seasoning at appropriate level.
– This method is fast and uniform.
– Many plywood companies adopt this method.
– It is a costly technique
 3.2. Wood Preservation
• Except teak all other timber need treatment with preservation to
protect it from attacks of fungi, insects and the weather.
• In order to increase the wood strength, keep the original size and
shape of wood, improve the usage property and lengthen the
useful time, the preservative treatment and the drying treatment
must be made before wood is processed and used.
• Refer to the treatment of wood with chemicals to impart
resistance to degradation & deterioration by living organism. e.g.
Insects, fungus, bacteria e.t.c.
• Wood preservatives chemicals are toxic & hazardous.
• Preservative treatment provide long term resistance to organism
that causes deterioration
• If preservatives applied correctly, it extends the productive life of
timber by 5-10 times.
 3.2. Wood Preservation
Methods of wood preservation
1. Pressure treatment: to remove air from wood cells. Here the
Preservative is injected under pressure into the timber.
2. Dipping and immersing method
3. Brushing or painting.
4. Tarrying: coating by coal tar while hot.
5. Charrying: preserving timber without preservative.
• Objectives of wood preservatives
• To increase the wood durability
• To reduce maintenance & replacement cost of wood after use.
 3.2. Wood Preservation
• Wood processing or conversion
• The process of converting large size logs into pieced of suitable
sizes to meet convenience in marketing and use is called wood
processing.
• There are two methods of wood processing:
1. Flat sawed: longitudinal cutting through the log at right
angled to annual rings using circular rows. It is the most
economical and simple method
2. Quarter sawed: first sawed into quarters and each quarters
then sawed into slices/pieces
 3.3. Wood Joints
• Joint is used to describe the close securing or fastening together of
two or more smooth, even surfaces.
• The joint to select for each kind of construction depends to some
extend on the need for:
– The strength
– The appearance
– The difficulty of fabrication
– The equipment available
• The two essential secretes to be successful in wood working are:
1. To know the right joint to use
2. To know how to make that joint in the right way.
 3.3. Wood Joints
TYPES JOINTS
1. Box joint
– A square interlocking fingers to join two pieces at a right angles
– Cut by table saw
– Have rectangular “fingers” that inter lock each other along the edge.
– Basic strong method of joinery & used for hardwood (thicker wood
type).
 For simple boxes, cases, cheap drawers, frames and chairs.
 Very weak joint.
 3.3. Wood Joints
1. Butt Joint
– Butt Joints are the most basic method for connecting two pieces of
wood, and while it isn't the strongest of joints, it is very useful in
some situations.
– The strength of a butt joint comes from the glue in the joint.
 3.3. Wood Joints
2. Half-lap Joint
– Half lap joints are among the most basic of woodworking joints.
– A half lap joint is where two pieces of stock, which are typically of
the same thickness, have half of the material removed so that the
two boards fit together so that the joint adds no thickness at the
joint.
 3.3. Wood Joints
3. Tongue and Groove Joint
– A tongue and groove joint is a unique woodwork joint that is
attached edge to edge with two or more pieces of timber.
– It is made with one edge consisting of a slot that runs down the
entire length of the timber and a tongue which fits into the slot.
– This groove and tongue feature creates a reasonably strong and
aesthetically pleasing joint that can be used in areas such as
floorboards, lining boards, wood panelling and table tops.
 3.3. Wood Joints
4. Mortise and Tenon Joint
– Types of the mortise and tenon joint have been used for centuries
by woodworkers because of their combination of superior
strength and simplicity.
– They are typically used when one piece of stock is joining to the
other at 90-degrees, but may be used at a slightly lesser angle in
certain circumstances.
– Bear in mind that the joint is strongest when the two pieces of
stock are at right angles to one another.
– The basic idea behind a mortise and tenon joint is that one piece
of stock is inserted into the other, and then held in place with a
fastener.
– Today, most woodworkers would use glue to secure the tenon
inside the mortise,
 3.3. Wood Joints
4. Mortise and Tenon Joint
 3.3. Wood Joints
5. Biscuit Joint
– A biscuit is a thin, oval-shaped piece of compressed wood
shavings, typically made from beech wood.
– When glued into slots precisely cut by the biscuit cutter, and the
moisture from the glue causes the biscuit to swell and tighten the
joint.
 3.3. Wood Joints
6. Pocket Joint
– Pocket joints are nothing more than a screw that is driven
diagonally through one board into another.
– To create a proper pocket joint, the path for the screw must be
pre-drilled to avoid splitting the head piece.
– The screw is driven through the head board into the tail stock.
– No glue is necessary, as the screw will hold the joint securely, but
glue would definitely add strength to the joint.
 3.3. Wood Joints
7. Dado
– Using a dado is a very functional and strong method for
connecting two pieces of stock.
– A dado is a groove cut into one piece of wood into which another
piece of wood will fit snugly.
– For instance, when building a bookshelf using 3/4" thick stock,
one would cut a 3/4" wide groove into the shelf standard and then
glue the shelf into the groove.
 3.3. Wood Joints
8. Rabbet
– A rabbet is nothing more than a dado that is cut into the edge of
the face of the stock rather than in the center of the stock.
– A rabbet is great for when a shelf needs to be placed flush with the
top of the shelf standard or for placing a plywood back on a
cabinet.
 3.3. Wood Joints
9. Dovetail Joint
– Of all woodworking joints, the through dovetail is revered for not
only its strength, but also for its beauty.
– Dovetail joints can be challenging to fashion, but dovetailing jigs
and routers have made this joint much easier to perfect.
Summary of Wood Joints
Thank You!