Unit 5

Basics of garment manufacturing

Apparel production, also known as garment production is the process of converting fabric into
garments. The term apparel production is usually used when garments are manufactured in a factory.
Traditionally, apparel manufacturing factories have been divided into two sectors: domestic and export.
Based on the present apparel industry, garment manufacturing processes are categorized as: Pre-
Production processes, Production processes and Post-production processes.
Pre-production process: This includes sampling, sourcing of raw materials, approvals and PP
meetings, pattern making, pattern grading and marker planning
Production process: This includes cutting and sewing.
Post-production process: This includes thread trimming, pressing, checking, folding, packing and
shipment inspection.
1. Anthropometry
Introduction
Engineering anthropometry is a branch of ergonomics aimed at providing correct body
dimensions for obtaining a good fit of a product to the user. Even though body measurements are
integral to design of clothing, designers, in most cases, are not familiar with the principles and
application of anthropometry in this field. Traditional systems of data collection, interpretation and
applications in designing and grading of patterns are unscientific in nature and therefore fail to provide
a good fit of clothing for users.
In order to design clothing that truly fits the bodies it is intended for, a thorough understanding
of body shapes and sizes existing in the target population is required. The first step in this process is to
systematically measure the bodies of a representative sample of the population, also known as
anthropometry. Anthropometry, in turn, is a branch of ergonomics which is defined as a study of the
ways in which people work and act. Thus it can be said that the objective of anthropometry is to study
and analyse the shape and size of human bodies, and use this knowledge to design products that fit the
requirements of users. In case of clothing, users requirements must be fulfilled with respect to
appearance and comfort, while at the same time allowing them to perform their tasks without any
impedance or restriction. The task of finding a good fit for all users is complicated by the fact, that
human beings vary significantly not only in the dimensions, proportions and shape of their bodies, but
also in their perception of what comprises a 'good fit' or more often what 'looks good'. Ergonomic
design requires an understanding of this variability in human bodies as well as human preferences, and
its incorporation into the design process
The fundamental requirements of clothing include:
• Protection from external environment - heat, cold, wind, rain etc.
• Maintaining the micro environment - allow heat and moisture transport from the body.
• Exerting minimal inhibition - allow free movement and accomplishment of tasks.
• Ease of use - donning and doffing of garment.
The performance of clothing depends on several interrelated factors, such as the clothing
characteristics, user characteristics and task characteristics.
The term ‘Anthropometry’ is derived from a combination of Greek words anthrop (meaning
human) and metricos (meaning measurement). It refers to the scientific measurement and collection of
data about human physical characteristics such as body dimensions, body volumes, masses of body
segments, center of gravity, and inertial properties. An anthropometric variable is defined as a
quantifiable characteristic of the body that can be defined, standardized and referred to a unit of
measurement.
Steps involved in garment making/construction
Design / Sketch
↓
Pattern Design
↓
Sample Making
↓
Production Pattern
↓
Grading
↓
Marker Making
↓
Spreading
↓
Cutting
↓
Sorting/Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
↓
Inspection
↓
Pressing/Finishing
↓
Final Inspection
↓
Packing
↓
Despatch

1. Basic principle of pattern making and grading

The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor
leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original pattern
through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate locations to
accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is dependent on the
pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual customer. With the
onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready-to-wear
clothing.
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to
conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function between
design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design
in the form of the garment components
Pattern is a hard paper which is made by following each individual component for a style of garment
or apparel. Actually pattern is a template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric
before being cut out and assembled. It is one of the most important parts of garment
manufacturing industry. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique which calls for technical
ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding of garment construction.
Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production.
A basic or foundation pattern can be created by any of the two methods, namely, by drafting or by
draping fabric on a model. Pattern drafting is defined as a technique or method of drawing patterns on
brown paper with accuracy and precision, based on the body measurements or standard measurement
chart. This is an efficient and economical method and can be manipulated to create the pattern for
different styles by a technique known as flat pattern designing.

Types of Paper Pattern:

1. Standardized paper pattern: Paper patterns prepared using standardised body measurements are
called standardised paper patterns. This method is followed in training and tailoring schools.

2. Individual paper pattern: The measurement of a particular person is taken and a pattern is prepared
using these individual measurements. The pattern prepared for a particular person will not suit another
person. These are usually done at home and some tailor shops.

3. Final paper patterns: Once the individual is satisfied with the paper patterns, they are made into
final paper patterns. Though, while making individual patterns all the precautions are taken, yet, there
could be some minor points, which are to be considered. These minor details are corrected and finally
made into permanent patterns.

4. Block paper pattern: Normally these are made with standard sizes with thick cardboard. These are
mostly used in the garment industry. The garment made out of these block patterns will fit those who
have measurements equal to that of the standardised body measurement.

5. Readymade patterns: These are made using a unique type of tracing paper. These can be procured
from the market and are more useful for people who can do stitching, but not drafting. These can be
bought readymade and can be easily used by placing on the material and cutting and stitching
accordingly.
6. Graded paper pattern: Patterns of five consecutive sizes (e.g. 30″, 32″, 34″, 35″ and 38″ chest
size) are marked in one single pattern. The required size according to the individual body measurement
is traced separately, cut and used.
7. Commercial paper pattern: The paper patterns for different designs are available in readymade
forms. These patterns are called commercial patterns. These patterns are enclosed in an envelope along
with an instruction sheet. The instruction sheet will provide information about selection of fabric,
preparation of fabric, marking, cutting, and steps for sewing. The front side of the envelope contains
the front view, side view and back view of the garment design along with the body measurements.
Principles of Pattern Drafting:
Pattern drafting can be carried out on an ordinary brown sheet paper which is not too thin. To achieve
an accurate and precise pattern draft, use of appropriate tools should be practiced, for example, for
drawing a straight line a sharp pencil and a ruler have to be used and to draw right angle lines, an ‘L’
square or set square can be utilised. Prior to pattern drafting, it is essential to know the procedures and
instructions.

The basic principles of pattern drafting are given below:

1. Patterns must be created larger than actual body measurements to permit free body movements, ease
of action and comfort in wearing. Normally used ease allowance for various parts of the body are as
follows.
a. Bust – 3–5″ (3″ for a tight fitting garment and 5″ for loose fitting one).
b. Waist – 1/2″.
c. Hips – 3–5″.
d. Upper arm – 3–4″.
e. Arm hole depth – 1″.
The ease allowance must be incorporated in the pattern drafting before cutting out the pattern.

2. For a symmetric garment (the right and left sides of the garment panels are similar), the paper pattern
could be made only for half front and half back. But for the sleeve part, a full pattern must be made.

3. It is better to draft the basic pattern blocks such as plain bodice, plain sleeve, and plain skirt without
including seam allowances. However, while marker planning or keeping the patterns directly on the
fabric for cutting, adequate seam allowances have to be ensured between the patterns before cutting.
Otherwise, to avoid the risk of cutting without seam allowance, it is better to add seam allowances in
the paper pattern itself after completing the draft.

4. The following construction detailed information should be recorded and marked clearly on the
pattern after drafting to aid in further processes.

• Identification mark of every pattern piece by its name (bodice front, bodice back, sleeve, etc.).
• Number of pattern pieces to be cut with each pattern piece.
• If seam allowances are not included in the draft, this should be pointed out in the pattern. If it
is included, then seam and cutting lines should be clearly drawn on the pattern.
• Length grain line should be marked in a different colour pencil on every pattern piece.
• Notches should be provided for easy matching of components while sewing.
 • Centre front (CF) as well as centre back (CB) lines should be marked in the block pattern.
• Fold lines in the pattern should be clearly marked and should be visible to show the location
where the material should be folded.
• Dart and pleat markings, etc. should also be marked clearly on the pattern.
Pattern Making Methods

1. Drafting
Drafting is a method of pattern making in which the body measurement are taken accurately. Ease, is
then added for easy body movement. Pattern is made based on calculations and step by step
instructions.
Drafting: Can be done with only measurements.
• It assists in creating various designs.
• It Requires a Model or Dress Form to take measurements.
• Some measurement can be found by using the calculation, when all the measurements are not
available.
It is widely used in the readymade garment industry, and
• Can make use of computer applications.
• Requires many calculations.
• The fit can be seen only during test fit.
• Is time consuming.

2. Draping
This is a pattern making technique in which the muslin fabric or similar fabric of the original garment
put directly on the dress form to make the patterns. The fabric is adjusted for fit, dart, ease and
design(like gathers, pleats etc) and outline of the garment parts is traced to make the patterns.
Draping: Is easy no calculation required.
• Allows the fit to be seen without stitching.
• Is best suited for contour fit garment.
• Does not require body measurements.
• Is used by most of designers.
• Requires a dress form for every customer.
• Requires the model to stand till the draping is over. This can take a long time.
3. The knockoff method: Is useful if you want to reproduce the garment with same fit.
• Does not require pattern making skills.
• In this method: Garment parts are copied into patterns.
• Garments are ironed and folded into half and place on the flat table and seam lines are traced. Then
necessary seam allowances and marks added later.
The knockoff method: Is easy to make patterns.
• Can achieve similar fits.
4. Digitizer
Patterns can be digitized with the help of mouse. All the pattern marking like Grainline, Notches,
pockets can be marked while digitizing. Nested digitized can be done for graded patterns. The pattern
development system helps to make the flat patterns on computers. It helps to make the patterns, Check
the patterns, Adding Seam allowances, marking notches, Walking the pieces, Grading etc. Today many
developers are offering 3D Virtual stitching.
5. 3D Virtual Sampling
3D body scanners are used to scan the models. Then the models are imported in virtual sampling
application. The models measurements are adjusted if required. The patterns are placed in position and
stitching lines defined. The simulators virtually stitch the garment. The fabric properties can be
adjusted. The required fabric designs can be rendered and many fabric design combination rendered
easily. Garment fitting can be seen for the same.
6. Plotters
Plotters help to print the patterns in real size. The marker also plot in real size and used for cutting.
7. 3D Body Scanner
A 3D body scanner used to scan the body and converting into digital format. This enables many
measurements to be taken accurately.
Pattern Making Terminology And Principles
Pattern making requires a number of tools that help during the pattern making process. This includes an
awl, compass, French curve, Hip curve ruler, square, muslin, notcher, pattern making paper,
mechanical pencils, pins, push pins, ruler transparent, scissors or shears, measuring tape, and tracing
wheel.
The awl is a Pointed tool with a wooden handle. Used to pierce small holes such as to indicate apex,
Pocket markings etc.

The compass is a tool consisting of two rods, one sharply pointed and the other equipped with a
drawing end; Compasses are available in various sizes to draw circles of different measurements. It is
used for making ruffles and circular skirts.

The French curve is A plastic curve shape device used to draw curve lines like armhole and neck
shapes.

The Hip curve ruler is a wooden / Plastic / metal curved shaped ruler. The Edges are marked with
measurements. It is mostly used to draw the hip shape of the skirt and Pant. It can be used to draw
slight curve shape like Hemline etc.

The L square is A wooden / metal / plastic ruler with one side longer than the other. It is used to make
perpendicular lines.

Muslin is a plain weave fabric used for test fit the garment. Available in light, medium and heavy
weights.

The Notcher is a hand punching tool which produces a 1/16” (0.2 cm) nick in pattern. Used to
establish notches at the outer edge of seam when pattern is completed.

White or Brown coloured paper available in a variety of width and weights. Light weight papers are
used while drafting and thicker papers are used for sloppers.
Mechanical pencils are used to draw patterns. Normally 4H lead is used for pattern making. Size 17
pins are used to pin the fabrics. Push pins are used to pin the pattern on the table.

2. Pattern Grading:
Grading is a technique used either to maximise or minimise the size of a pattern. This becomes
necessary when large numbers of different sized garments have to be produced in a relatively shorter
time as is done in the garment industry. If we define pattern grading, then we can say it is a process of
enlarging or diminishing a style pattern, making it possible to obtain proper fit for all sizes without
changing the title for a given compilation of anthropometric measurements that are suitable for a
person whose body measurements lie within certain tolerance limits of the garment size measurements.

Methods of Grading
There are three basic methods of grading: cut and spread, pattern shifting, and computer grading. No
one method is technically superior and all are equally capable of producing a correct grade.

01. Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to
cut the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down.

02. Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a specially designed ruler) and
redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut-and-spread method.

03. Computer grading: This is the fastest method, but tends to be an investment only larger
manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer software is becoming affordable.

3. Garment Marker Planning

3.1 Introduction
Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a
particular style of fabric and size distribution. It is the process of plotting all the pattern pieces for all
the sizes of a particular style of garment on a thin piece of paper, known as the marker paper, in such a
way that maximum fabric will be used and minimum fabric will be wasted.
3.2 Methods of Marker Planning

In a garment industry, marker planning is done by two methods 1. Manual method and 2.
Computerized method. Now-a-days mostly Computer Aided Designing (CAD) systems are used for
marker planning, but still in certain cases where there are complicated patterns on the fabric, manual
marker planning method is more preferred. Marker planning with CAD systems increases the accuracy,
increases control over variables and reduces time required in making markers.

In manual method of marker planning, marker making is done by an efficient marker maker.
It depends on the marker makers efficiency and expertise, that how efficiently marker planning is done.
Manual marker making can be done by either drafting full size patterns on a marker paper or then
placing the marker on the fabric spread or by preparing miniature patterns reduced to 1/5th of the
original size and then reproducing the patterns on the fabric spread. Marker making using the latter has
the advantage of higher marker efficiency, since the control over the marker is better than the full size
patterns.

The major advantage of this method is that it can be used for all types of fabric designs.
Virtually this method has no limitation. But as this method involves an operator, it is also accompanied
with many disadvantages. The main disadvantage is that it is highly time consuming and requires a
great deal of space, since the marker maker follows trial and error method for getting the best marker
plan. Also, this method is more prone to errors and inconsistencies. The labor cost for this method is
also very high; hence it is an expensive method.
 Manual marker planning

In computerized method of marker planning, first production pattern is entered in the

memory of the computer by using digitizer or by scanning of the manually prepared patterns and then
full size production patterns are stored in the memory of the computer. Now-a-days, CAD systems
have inbuilt directory of various pattern pieces which makes the marker making less skilled and less
time consuming. Also with the advancement of technology, even calculation of marker efficiency is
done simultaneous as the pattern pieces are placed on the marking area. CAD systems are now
available in two forms: 1. Automatic marker making, in which the system itself gives out the most
efficient marker plan, and 2. Interactive marker making, in which the operator has the freedom to place
the marker places as per his skills, system acting as a support tool in case of any errors. The main
features of this method are that it is highly accurate, highly efficient and requires less time. All the
parameters can be entered before hand in the system which makes planning a lot easier. CAD systems
have inbuilt protective devices which ensure the grain line alignment and prevent overlapping of
pieces. Even they give a rough estimate about the cost of fabric that is being utilized prior to line
adoption. Its only drawback is that the initial invest is too high for a small scale manufacturing unit.

3.3 Points to be considered before Marker Planning

Following points should be considered before marker making
1. During marker making it should be followed that fabric width must be higher than marker width
(Bn) (At least ½ inch). 2. Fabric length must be higher than marker length (Ls) (At least one inch).
3. Marker width should be taken according to the fabric width and fabric spreading must be done by
taking the guideline from the marker length.
4. When garment pattern pieces are laid down on the layer of fabric, in that time the grain line must be
parallel to the line of warp in a woven fabric and wales in knitted fabric. It should be noted here that,
when pattern pieces are laid down across the layers, then the line is kept parallel to the weft for woven
fabric and course in knit fabric.
5. All the pattern pieces of a garment should be along the same direction when laid down on an
asymmetric fabric.
6. During marker making, length of fabric cutting table should be considered.
7. Plan for garment production should also be considered during marker making.
 8. During marker making, marker should be started with the large pattern pieces. Then fits the smaller
pieces in the gap of larger pieces. In this way, fabric wastage is minimized and marker efficiency is
also increased.
3.4 Marker Efficiency
Success of marker planner is measured from the efficiency of marker plan. Marker efficiency is
defined as “a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area of total marker.” If the marker
efficiency is high the fabric wastage will be less and vice versa. Calculation of marker efficiency can be
done either by using the area of pattern pieces and the fabric spread or by using the weight of the cut
pattern pieces and the total weight of a single layer of fabric spread.

3.5 Factors related to Marker Efficiency

Marker Planner: Marker efficiency dependents on experience, honesty, sincerity, trial and
technological knowledge. The more, the number of markers, the more is the possibility to get higher
efficiency.

Pattern Engineering: Marker efficiency can be increased by changing the pattern according to the
rule. Such as a big component can be divided into two parts. This will help to save the fabric wastages.

Size of Garments: The more the number of the pattern sizes is including, the more possibility to get
more efficiency.

Marker Length: Higher marker length, higher the efficiency. It can also help to increase the
production of cutting room. Fabric Characteristics: Symmetrical fabrics are those which are similar in
all directions. Marker efficiency is good in those types of fabrics. However, marker efficiency will be
less for asymmetrical fabrics.

Marker Making Method: We can generally make markers by two methods. They are manual and
computerized. Computerized marker is more efficient when it is done interactively with the planner so
marker efficiency varies from method to method. Sometimes a skilled operator can make more efficient
marker than computer.

Marker Width: The more the fabric width, the easier to plan or make marker which will increase the
efficiency. Style of Garments: There are some garments which have only large patterns such as
overcoat. If there are less number of small components, the marker will be less efficient.

4. Spreading

Fabric spreading means to spread the fabric in a systematic way. It is a process by which plies of
fabric is spreaded in order to get required length and width as per marker dimension. This is
preparatory operation for cutting of the fabric.

4.1 Objects of Fabric Spreading:

1. To place the number of fabric plies to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to the
length and width.
2. To cut garments in large scale and saving fabric through the use of multi garments marker plan
and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many piles at the same time.
3. To make every ply flat and plane.
4. At correct tension.

4.2 Factors of Fabric Spreading:

1. Alignment of the fabric plies: Fabric plies should be aligned according to the marker length and
marker width.
2. Correct ply tension: To prepare the lay of the fabric, during fabric spreading its base condition to
maintain the correct ply tension.
3. Fabric must be flat: During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed that there is no and
fold or crinkle in the fabric.
4. Elimination of fabric fault: The fold of fabric must be indicated during spreading and necessary
steps should be taken to remove these faults. It is the duty of the operator.
5. Correct ply direction: During fabric spreading it is very important to detect what type of fabric it
is and spread the fabric with correct ply direction.
6. Elimination of static electricity: In fabric spreading static charge may produced due to friction
specially the fabric containing the man-made fiber like polyester, nylon etc. To overcome the
problem we should take following steps:

i. To use the antifriction paper,

ii. To increase the moisture of cutting room,
iii. To use silicon finish in cutting blade.

7. To avoid the fashion between fabric layer: In case of cutting of fabric lay by cutting knife,
friction may be produced between lay and cutting knife which contains thermo plastic fibers may
fused due to heat generation. To avoid these problem previous steps should be taken.
8. Matching check and stripe: During fabric spreading it should be carefully noticed that checked
and stripe should be matched otherwise garments may be fault.
9. Easy separation of the cut lay into bundles: Identification marks are used in plies due to color or
shade variation.

5. Fabric Cutting

In this stage, fabrics are layered on a table layer by layer up to a certain height. Then, using a
cutting machine, the fabric is cut into garment shapes or patterns and separated from the layer. Fabric
layering is possible both by manual spreading and automated spreading. Cut parts are then numbered,
bundled and sent to the sewing room. Cutting can help save fabric, as well as add value to the quality
of a garment. The quality of the end product, (the garment) depends first, on good cutting. Secondly,
the main raw material of the garment represents about 70% of the total cost of the garment. That is
why, cutting is an important process.
6. Sorting/ Bundling:
After cutting the entire fabric lay, all the garments components in stack form is shorted out as
per size and color. To avoid mistake in sorting, it is better to use code number on each pattern.

7. Sewing or Stitching

Garment panels are stitched together by sewing machines in the sewing room. In sewing, 2
Dimensional fabric patterns are converted to 3 Dimensional forms. An operator runs the machine and
uses sewing threads to join garment parts together. Various types of sewing machines are available for
sewing. These machines are selected according to the seam and stitch requirement. In the apparel
industry, traditionally, sewing machines are laid in a row. Cut parts are fed at the start of the line,
passed through the line and at the end of the line a complete garment comes out.

8. Finishing

Generally, this process includes checking of the garment, measurement checking, ironing, and
spotting. After sewing of the garments, all pieces are checked by the quality checker to ensure that
garments have been made as per buyer quality standards. Checking is normally done for visual
appearance and measurements. Spotting is required to remove stains in the pieces. Special chemicals,
(solvents) are used to remove various kinds of oil stains, marks and hard stains. Each garment is then
ironed with a press to remove creases.

9. Packing and Folding

Each pressed garment is now folded with tissue or cardboard. Folding varies from product to
product and also from buyer to buyer. Hang tags, special tags and price stickers are attached with
plastic Kimble or threads. Folded and tagged garments are then packed into poly bags. During packing,
garments are randomly checked by internal quality controllers to ensure that only quality goods are
being packed.

10. Final Inspection and Dispatch

Once the garments are packed (also known as shipment), quality inspection of the garments is
carried out by the buyer’s Quality Assurance (QA) department before dispatching. A third party quality
auditor may also be hired to do this final inspection. If the packed goods meet the buyer’s quality
standards, the shipment is accepted by the buyer. The factory then dispatches the goods to the buyer.