JSLTC SeamEffic
JSLTC SeamEffic
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(Council of Scientific and Industrial Research), Adyar, Chennai 600 020, India
Summary
Sewability is one of the essential parameters influencing the garment making process as well as the
quality of the final product. In this work, sewability of sheep nappa leathers was measured in terms of
seam efficiency and was correlated with related mechanical properties. Seam efficiency was found to
be between 44 and 99% for the sheep nappa leathers employed in this study. Among the various
mechanical properties studied, elongation at break seems to influence the seam efficiency significantly
as evidenced from the correlation coefficient value of 0.99. While tensile strength and seam strength
also had fairly good relation with seam efficiency with correlation coefficient values greater than or
equal to 0.90. Formability, breaking strength and stitch tear strength (double hole) exhibited a
correlation coefficient of ≥0.80 with seam efficiency, indicating a high dependency. While most of these
parameters had direct relation with seam efficiency, initial tensile modulus had an inverse relation.
Flexural rigidity did not show any significant relation with seam efficiency. The results obtained in this
study would form a basis for designing and fabricating of leather garments.
EXPERIMENTAL METHODS
and between collagen molecules, which may vest
leathers with good air/vapour permeability.
The study of sewability in clothing manufacture has
Materials
considerable influence in today’s advanced garment
making process. Fundamentally, in garment
manufacturing, a flat fabric or leather is converted into Commercially available sheep nappa garment
a three-dimensional structure (garment) matching the leathers of 0.6 ± 0.05mm substance were procured
shape of the human body. Therefore, sewability is and five leathers designated as S1, S2, S3, S4 and S5
defined as the ability and ease with which fabric were chosen with an average size of 4 ± 0.5 sq.ft.
components can be effectively seamed together to Specimens were cut along and across the backbone
produce a well fitting garment. Better sewability means from each leather and from the butt region for all the
greater ease of formation of shell structures and styles physical testing.6 Eight specimens were taken from
with the absence of fabric distortion and seam each leather, for analyzing seam strength, double hole
damage. The appearance and durability of seams stitch tear strength and flexural rigidity, adjacent to
forms an important component of the quality of the each other in both parallel and perpendicular directions
finished product.3 The strength and durability of seam to the backbone. Test specimens used for flexural
can be measured in terms of material properties and rigidity measurements were further utilized for
1
measuring thickness and weight and subjected to fabric Formability
tensile strength, elongation at break, initial tensile Formability (F) is defined as ratio of flexural rigidity
modulus and formability analysis. Stitching was carried and initial tensile modulus10 and calculated as shown
out for sewability testing using Coats’ core spun thread
G
in equation (3).
F=
(ticket no. 50) on a Pfaff flat bed sewing machine. A
ITM
number 110 needle was used throughout the study. x 10-3 (3)
G=Wx
3
(1) tensile testing machine (Instron) was adjusted in such
2
a way that the jaws were 30mm apart and cross head
ITM = x
the backbone direction of the leather. Two holes were
∆D b (2) made in the test pieces and a metal wire made into a
‘U’ shaped loop was passed through two holes so that
∆F
where: both ends project from flesh side of the test piece. The
∆D
= Force in N ends of the wire were clamped in one of the grips of
GL
= Elongation in mm the Instron and the free end of the test piece in the
b
= Gauge length in mm other grip. The cross head speed was maintained at
ITM
= Width of specimen in mm 250mm/min. The load required to initiate the tear in the
= Initial tensile modulus in N/mm test piece was recorded.
2
a b
Figure 1. Schematic showing the sample (a) with seam and (b) during seam strength analysis.
Seam strength
perpendicular direction. Seam efficiency was plotted
3
values. The average breaking strength in the parallel and sewing. Flexural rigidity values are given in Table
direction is higher compared to that in the perpendicular I for sheep nappa leathers measured in both parallel
direction. This trend is similar to that observed for the and perpendicular direction to the backbone. The mean
relationship between stitch tear strength (double hole) values range from 54 to 95mN/mm in the parallel
and seam efficiency. Mean seam efficiency was plotted direction and from 63 to 79mN/mm in the perpendicular
against mean breaking strength as calculated for both direction. The flexural rigidity of sheep nappa leather is
the backbone directions and shown in Figure 4. It is high compared to that of woven fabrics.17 Flexural
seen that seam efficiency increases as the fabric rigidity values of individual leathers were plotted against
breaking strength increases (in both the directions) akin seam efficiency after calculating the means of parallel
to the seam strength. It is observed that the relation and perpendicular direction values. The points are
between seam efficiency and fabric breaking strength widely scattered and correlation between the two
is good with the correlation coefficient of 0.83. parameters is not significant with a correlation
4
TABLE I
Seam efficiency and related mechanical properties of sheep nappa garment leathers
S1 96.8 ± 14.0 98.9 ± 19.0 180.4 ± 19.1 194.8 ± 9.7 49.2 ± 10.8 54.6 ± 6.4
S2 44.0 ± 9.0 62.8 ± 7.0 49.6 ± 5.9 41.1 ± 3.4 22.5 ± 7.8 11.8 ± 1.8
S3 71.3 ± 15.0 88.9 ± 24.0 89.2 ± 17.2 62.7 ± 12.3 33.8 ± 8.6 13.3 ± 4.9
S4 75.7 ± 21.0 95.8 ± 29.0 163.4 ± 29.2 136.3 ± 19.3 56.3 ± 10.6 55.6 ± 12.9
S5 81.9 ± 22.0 91.5 ± 22.0 133.1 ± 19.8 136.4 ± 16.7 32.8 ± 3.7 37.1 ± 7.6
Mean 73.9 ± 19.3 87.6 ± 14.4 123.0 ± 23.8 114.3 ± 22.0 40.3 ± 11.7 34.4 ± 11.3
S1 68.2 ± 13.11 78.6 ± 15.6 3.9 ± 0.6 4.4 ± 1.5 0.019 ± 0.007 0.019 ± 0.005
S2 85.9 ± 5.8 64.7 ± 8.2 5.8 ± 0.5 4.4 ± 0.8 0.015 ± 0.005 0.015 ± 0.003
S3 53.6 ± 8.7 62.7 ± 9.6 3.4 ± 0.6 2.9 ± 0.7 0.015 ± 0.003 0.022 ± 0.005
S4 94.6 ± 18.2 74.2 ± 9.8 5.3 ± 1.6 3.3 ± 0.5 0.018 ± 0.004 0.023 ± 0.005
S5 64.2 ± 13.2 65.6 ± 14.3 3.5 ± 0.7 3.2 ± 0.6 0.018 ± 0.004 0.020 ± 0.008
Mean 73.3 ± 12.6 69.2 ± 6.9 4.4 ± 1.1 3.6 ± 0.7 0.016 ± 0.002 0.019 ± 0.003
Values are given as the average of eight samples along with standard deviation
TABLE II
Tensile properties of sheep nappa garment leathers
Leathers Tensile strength (MPa) Elongation at break (%) Breaking strength (N)
S1 13.7 ± 2.5 14.2 ± 2.5 59.6 ± 9.5 49.5 ± 8.2 186.3 ± 23.6 197.0 ± 26.5
S2 6.8 ± 1.3 4.2 ± 0.2 30.2 ± 4.9 32.3 ± 6.0 112.7 ± 17.0 65.5 ± 9.8
S3 10.5 ± 5.5 5.5 ± 2.2 45.9 ± 7.4 43.3 ± 11.3 125.1 ± 20.6 70.5 ± 10.6
S4 11.7 ± 3.2 12.8 ± 3.2 46.2 ± 7.0 55.7 ± 6.7 215.9 ± 27.1 142.3 ± 23.7
S5 12.3 ± 2.6 8.4 ± 1.2 47.4 ± 3.2 51.8 ± 8.3 162.7 ± 26.7 149.1 ± 31.3
Mean 11.0 ± 2.6 9.1 ± 4.4 45.8 ± 10.5 46.5 ± 9.1 160.5 ± 22.7 124.9 ± 26.0
Values are given as the average of eight samples along with standard deviation
5
100 100
90 90
80
80
70
70
60
Y=0.26x+49.6 60
50 R=0.90 Y=4.5x+34.9
50 R=0.92
40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180 200
4 6 8 10 12 14
100
100
Seam efficiency (%)
90
100
100
Seam efficiency (%)
90
90
Seam efficiency (%)
80
80
70
70
60
Y=0.29x+38.7 60
50 R=0.83 Y=6843x-44.9
50 R=0.87
80 100 120 140 160 180 200
0.014 0.015 0.016 0.017 0.018 0.019 0.020 0.021
Breaking strength (N) 2
6
initial tensile modulus has an inverse relation with seam APPENDIX 1
efficiency. The influence of flexural rigidity on seam
Procedure for measuring bending length as per
efficiency was not prominent. The percentage
Indian standard IS 64907
elongation at break, of all the mechanical properties
studied, can be considered as the best parameter to
use to evaluate seam efficiency. A very high correlation Place the tester (shown in the picture below) on a
coefficient of 0.99 substantiates our findings. Further it table so that horizontal platform and inclined reference
can be concluded that the percentage elongation at line are at eye level of the operator.
3. Behera, B. K. and Sharma, S., Ind. J. Fibre & Text. Res., 1998,
calculated.
23, 233.
4. Shishoo, R. L., Text. Asia, 1989, 2, 66.
5. Crow, R. M. and Dewar, M. M., Text. Res. J., 1986, 56, 467.
6. IUP 2, J. Soc. Leather Technol. Chem., 2000, 84, 303.
7. IS6490, Bureau of Indian Standards, New Delhi, (1971).
15. Kanagy, J. R., J. Amer. Leather Chem. Assoc., 1955, 50, 112.
14. www.fibre2fashion.com Accessed May 2010.
16. Mitton, R. G., J. Soc. Leather Technol. Chem., 1948, 32, 310.
17. Lange, S., Niven, B. E. and Laing, R. M., J. Soc. Leather
Technol. Chem., 2000, 84, 1.
18. Malac, J., Polymer Test., 2006, 25, 650.
19. Urbanija, V. and Gersak, J., J. Soc. Leather Technol. Chem.,
2004, 88, 181.
20. SIROFAST, Instruction manual, 4.2 ed., CSIRO Division of
Wool Technology, (1994). Apparatus for measuring the bending length
7
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