Extreme Waves and

Energy Movements

Will Bateman
Freak Waves

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Content

• Spectral Analysis (different ways to visualise the

energy distribution within waves).
• Energy and wave amplitude.
• Impact of directionality on extreme events.
• Nonlinear bound energy movements within waves.
• Resonant energy transfers and permanent changes.
• Changes to directionality within extreme events.
• Current theories about how extreme events arise.

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Mass Continuity

v+∆v
∂u ∂v
+ =0
u u+∆u
∂x ∂y
∇ ϕ =0
2

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Bottom Boundary Condition

∂ϕ
d = 0 at z = −d
∂z

V=0

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Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition

1
( )
− ρ u 2 + v2 − ρ
{gη
1244244 3 PE
KE

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Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition

∂ϕ
ρ
1
( )
= − ρ u 2 + v2 − ρ
∂t 124 {gη
4244 3 PE
KE

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Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition

∂η ∂ϕ
=
∂t ∂z

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Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition

∂η ∂ϕ ∂η ∂ϕ
= −
∂t ∂z ∂x ∂x

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 v+∆v
Governing Equations

• Mass Continuity:
u u+∆u
∂u ∂v
+ =0 ∇ ϕ =0
2

∂x ∂y
v

• Bottom Boundary Condition:

∂ϕ
= 0 at z = − d
∂z
V=0
• Surface Boundary Condition:
ηt = ϕ z − η xϕ x
2
ϕ t = − ∇ϕ − gη 1
2
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Describing the Surface

Surface Elevation
N
η ( x) = ∑ aˆ n ei ( k x −ω t )
n n

n =0
N
= ∑ an cos(k n x − ωt ) + bn sin( k n x − ωt )
n =0

Velocity Potential
N
ϕ S ( x) = ∑ Aˆ n cosh(k n (η + d ))e i ( k x −ω t )
n n

n =0

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The New G-Operator

• Defines the vertical derivative of the potential in terms of the

value of the potential at the surface

ϕ z = G (η )ϕ S
on z = η

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The New G-Operator

• Defines the vertical derivative of the potential in terms of the

value of the potential at the surface

ϕ z = G (η )ϕ S
on z = η
Δt

• Used to define:

ϕ x = ϕ xS − η x G (η )ϕ S

η t = G (η )ϕ S − ∇η ⋅ ∇ϕ
ϕt = η t G (η )ϕ S − 12 (ϕ x2 + (G (η )ϕ S ) 2 ) − gη
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How G-Operator Works

N
ϕ S ( x) = ∑ An cosh( K n (η + d ))e ik x n

n =0

∂ϕ ( x) N
= ∑ An K n sinh( K n (η + d ))eik n x
∂x n =0

where K n ,m = k n2 + k m2

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New-Wave

t=0s

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 Describing Real Ocean Waves

Jonswap Spectrum Spreading

1.0

Multiplication Factor, F(θ)

20 Spectal Peakiness, γ

1 (PM) 0.8
2
15 3
Gηη(ω)

4 0.6
5
10
0.4

5
0.2

0 0.0
0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0 -100 -75 -50 -25 0 25 50 75 100
ω (rad/s)
θ (deg)
ωp = 0.551 σn= 30º

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 Unidirectional Wave in a Directional Spectrum

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 Initial Directional Spectrum

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 Modeling Real Ocean Waves

Directionally Focused Wave:

t=0s - Nonlinear
t=-10s
t=-15s
t=-20s
t=15s
t=10s
t=-5s
t=5s Focus

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Validation

Case b78s4
Experimental
0.10 Numerical
Linear
0.08
2nd Order
0.06
Elevation (m)

0.04

0.02

0.00

-0.02

-0.04

-0.06

-0.5 0.0 0.5

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Validation

Case b78s4
0.10 Experimental
Numerical
0.08
Linear
0.06 2nd Order
Elevation (m)

0.04

0.02

0.00

-0.02

-0.04

-0.06

-2.0 -1.5 -1.0 -0.5 0.0 0.5 1.0 1.5 2.0

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Validation

Broad Banded - Short Crested

0.10 x=-0.7m

Elevation (m)
0.06
0.02
-0.02
-0.06

0.10 x=-0.3m
Elevation (m)

0.05
0.00
-0.05
-0.10

0.10 x=0m
Elevation (m)

0.06
0.02
-0.02
-0.06

0.10 x=0.7m
Elevation (m)

0.05
0.00
-0.05
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-2.0 -1.2 -0.4 0.4 1.2 2.0
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Validation

0.2 Case b78s4

0.0

-0.2
Depth (m)

-0.4

-0.6 Experimental
Numerical
-0.8 Linear
2nd Order
-1.0

-1.2
0.0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8
Horizontal Velocity (m/s)
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Looking for Extreme Waves

• Predictors of an Extreme
• Velocities in crest / wave u
velocity ≈ 0.55
C

• Vertical Accelerations Dω ∂w ∂w ∂w ∂w
= +u +v +w ≈ −0.38 g
Dt ∂t ∂x ∂y ∂z

• Slope ∂η
≈ 0.46
∂x

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Searching for limiting conditions

t=15s

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Maximum Wave Height

Deep Water Depth (h=∞) Spectral Peakiness, γ

1 (PM)
2
14
3
4
5
13
ηmax (m)

12

11

10

0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Spread, σθ (degrees)
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Energy Movements

Deep Water Depth (h=∞)

1.7 Spectral Peakiness, γ

1 (PM)
1.6
2
3
1.5 4
Amax / Ainp

5
1.4

1.3

1.2

1.1

0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Spread, σθ (degrees)
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Nonlinear Efficiency / Focal Quality

Deep Water Depth (h=∞)

1.6

Spectral Peakiness, γ
1.5
1 (PM)
2
1.4
3
4
ηmax / Ainp

1.3 5

1.2

1.1

1.0

0.9
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Spread, σθ (degrees)
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Maximum Crest Shapes

Directionality, σθ
15
0 deg
10 deg
10 30 deg
60 deg
Elevation (m)

-5

-100 -50 0 50 100

Time (s)
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Inverted Wave Crests

• Focussed Crests

• Focussed Troughs

• Odd Orders

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Energy Movements - Resonant Interactions

h=∞, γ=3, σθ=30° - all orders

4.0 Amplitude (m)

7.25
3.5
(4)
3.0 5.80
Frequency (rad/s)

(3)
2.5
Input Range 4.35

(2+)
2.0
2.90
1.5 (1)

1.45
1.0

(2-)
0.5 0.00

0.0
0.00 0.05 0.10 0.15 0.20 0.25 0.30 0.35

Absolute Wave-Number (rad/m)

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Speed of Focusing

Unidirectional
Long Crested, 10 deg
12 Short Crested, 60 deg
Maximum Elevation, ηmax (m)

10

0
-200 -150 -100 -50 0 50 100 150 200

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Permanent Energy Transfers

Unidirectional
Long Crested, 10 deg
Short Crested, 60 deg
1.6 Reversed, 10 deg

1.4
A / Ainp

1.2

1.0

-200 -150 -100 -50 0 50 100 150 200

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Resonant Interactions

A resonant interaction occurs when the bound interaction between components

create a wave that can propagate freely.

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Energy Movement and Phase (all orders)

h=∞, γ=3, σθ=30° − all orders

Phase angle (rad)

-3.14 -2.09 -1.05 0.00 1.05 2.09 3.14

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Energy Movement and Phase (odd orders)

h=∞, γ=3, σθ=30° − odd orders

Phase angle (rad)

-3.14 -2.09 -1.05 0.00 1.05 2.09 3.14

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Energy Movement and Phase (even orders)

h=∞, γ=3, σθ=30° − even orders

Phase angle (rad)

-3.14 -2.09 -1.05 0.00 1.05 2.09 3.14

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Benjamin and Feir Instabilities

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Benjamin and Feir Instabilities

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Resonant Interactions

k1 , ω1 ω12 = gk1
+/-
k 2 , ω2 ω22 = gk 2

=
k 3 , ω3 ω32 = gk3

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Resonant Interactions

k1 , ω1 ω12 = gk1
+/-
k 2 , ω2 ω22 = gk 2
+/-
k 3 , ω3 ω32 = gk3

=
k 4 , ω4 ω42 = gk 4

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Directionality

Short crested wave group (σn=30)

a) Focal Point b) Final (t=200s)

0.04 0.04 4.0e-4

2.5e-4
(1)
0.02 0.02 (3)
(2) (2) 1.0e-4
l (rad/m)

l (rad/m)
0.00 0.00 -5.0e-5

-2.0e-4
-0.02 -0.02 (4)
(1)
-3.5e-4

-0.04 -0.04 -5.0e-4

0.00 0.02 0.04 0.06 0.08 0.00 0.02 0.04 0.06 0.08
k (rad/m) k (rad/m)
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 t=-100s t=-90s t=-80s t=-70s

t=-60s t=-50s t=-40s t=-30s

t=-20s t=-10s t=0s (*) t=10s

t=20s t=30s t=40s t=50s

t=60s t=70s t=80s t=90s

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Energy Movements

Long crested wave group (σn=10)

t=-90s t=-70s t=-50s t=-30s (*)

t=-10s t=10s t=30s t=50s

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Directional Distribution of Amplitude
σn= 30º

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Changes in Directionality
σn= 30º
All orders
100
Amplitude (m)

50
0.21

0
0.16
Time (s)

-50
0.11

-100
0.05

-150
0.00

-200

-80 -60 -40 -20 0 20 40 60 80

Angle (deg)
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 Changes in Directionality (Odd orders)
σn= 30º

Odd orders
100
Amplitude (m)

50
0.21

0
0.16
Time (s)

-50
0.11

-100 60

0.05

Angular Spread, θa (deg)

55

-150
50 0.00

-200 45
95% Inclusion
90% Inclusion
-80 -60 -40 -20 0 20 40 60 80
40

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Angle (deg)
-200 -150 -100 -50 0 50 100
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Reduction in Directionality at Crest

Intermediate Water Depth (h=60m)

1.0

0.9
θe / 1.645σθ2

Spectral Peakiness, γ

1 (PM)
0.8 2
3
4
5

0.7
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Spread, σθ (degrees)
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Horizontal Wave Velocities (at crest)

H=26.0m
20

0
Depth (m)

Stream function
2-D Unsteady
-20
3-D Unsteady

-40

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16
Horizontal Velocity (m/s)
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Summary of Wave Forces

1:100 (18.4m) versus 1:10,000 (26m) year waves

Wave theory Total Base Shear Total Overturning

(MN) Moment (MNm)

Stream Function 18.7 | 50.4 501 | 1915

2-D Nonlinear Model 40.9 | 79.4 1448 | 3176

3-D Nonlinear Model 16.7 | 29.5 458 | 953

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 Thank you for listening
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