Module 1 - Waves
Module 1 - Waves
I. Course Description
This course discusses the fundamental concepts of mechanical and electromagnetic waves
and optics. It describes the nature, production and propagation of waves, its characteristics, types
and properties. It also deals with the simple harmonic motion. This course also gives emphasis on
the nature and duality of light with emphasis on physical and geometric optics. Concepts and
principles on sound propagation is also included. Learning waves and optics allows the students to
gain insights on the importance of waves on daily activities and applies the concepts and principles
in problem solving.
Module 1: Waves
a. Lesson 1 - The Nature of a Wave
a. Waves and Wavelike Motion
b. What is a Wave?
c. Categories of Waves
Course Facilitator:
Waves are one of the most striking features of the ocean. They can be calming and beautiful or terrifying
and relentless. Waves are a source of inspiration for artists, surfers, and scientists. Waves can also be violent and
destructive, sinking large ships during storms. Regardless of how they are viewed, waves are agents of change.
Principle 1: The earth has one big ocean with many features.
Ocean Literacy Fundamental Concept: Throughout the ocean there is one interconnected circulation
system powered by wind, tides, the force of the earth’s rotation (Coriolis effect), the sun, and water density
differences. The shape of ocean basins and adjacent landmasses influence the path of circulation.
To build an understanding of water circulation throughout the ocean, it is important to understand how wind
generates waves and how waves transfer energy over long distances with very little horizontal movement of water.
These concepts will be explored in this unit through the following activities and investigations:
Activity: Watching Waves (Your output will be in the form of narrative with pictures/video clips taken during actual
observation)
Materials
Notebook
Writing materials
Camera/cellphone
Watch (optional)
Procedure
Safety Note: Before going to a beach, check the weather and surf reports to make sure conditions are safe. Wear
protective clothing, put on sunscreen, and bring water. Follow all posted signs and lifeguard directions. Do not do it
alone!
1. Plan to observe the water at your favorite beach site. If you do not live near the ocean, observe waves formed as
winds blow over a lake, a pond, or a river. Keep in mind that wave watching activities usually cannot be scheduled
very far ahead of time because wave conditions change rapidly. Plan to spend about 30 minutes at the site to
observe wave conditions.
2. When you arrive at your site, make as many of the following observations as possible, but do not expect to observe
all of these phenomena at one place or at one time.
a. Wave shape
b. Wavelength
c. Wave height
d. Wave direction
e. Wave color
f. Wave sound
g. Location of wave break
h. Number of waves breaking
i. Effect of objects such as rocks, islands, or seawalls on waves
j. How far water goes up the shore when waves break
k. High water mark, evidenced by wet areas, marks on sand, seaweed, shells, or salt on rocks
l. Tide
m. Water moving on and off shore
n. Effect of waves on beach sand
o. Shape of the beach
p. Organisms in the wave zone
q. How swimmers, boaters, and surfers maneuver through the water
r. Specific features
i. Rills: small channels formed as waves retreat
ii. Swash marks: sand patterns formed as waves recede
iii. Ripple marks: wavelike patterns in sand formed by currents
iv. Lamination: sorting of sand grains by wave action
3. From a safe vantage point, sit quietly and watch the waves.
a. For each of the phenomena listed in Step 2, observe whether the waves or effects of the waves are consistent or
changing, and if they are the same across the entire beach or different from place to place.
b. Look for patterns when making your observations.
c. You may also describe things you notice that are not included in the list of suggested observations.
4. Share your observations.
5. (Optional) Repeat observations at a different beach site or at the same beach site on a different day.
Activity Questions:
1. Write a paragraph summary of your wave observations at your site. How do you define wave?
2. Were there any observations you were not able to complete in Step 2? Explain why.
3. If you could repeat this activity, what other questions/observations would you add to the list in Step 2?
4. Do you think the waves would be similar if you return to your site on a different day? Why or why not?
5. What do you think are some reasons that waves at one beach can be very different from waves at another beach
just a short distance away?
a. Waves and Wavelike Motion (https://www.physicsclassroom.com/class/waves/Lesson-1/Waves-and-Wavelike-
Motion)
Waves are everywhere. Whether we recognize it or not, we encounter waves
on a daily basis. Sound waves, visible light waves, radio waves, microwaves, water
waves, sine waves, cosine waves, stadium waves, earthquake waves, waves on a
string, and slinky waves and are just a few of the examples of our daily encounters with
waves. In addition to waves, there are a variety of phenomena in our physical world that
resemble waves so closely that we can describe such phenomenon as being wavelike.
The motion of a pendulum, the motion of a mass suspended by a spring, the motion of a
child on a swing, and the "Hello, Good Morning!" wave of the hand can be thought of as wavelike phenomena.
Waves (and wavelike phenomena) are everywhere!
For many people, the first thought concerning waves conjures up a
picture of a wave moving across the surface of an ocean, lake, pond or other
body of water. The waves are created by some form of a disturbance, such as a
rock thrown into the water, a duck shaking its tail in the water or a boat moving
through the water. The water wave has a crest and a trough and travels from
one location to another. One crest is often followed by a second crest that is
often followed by a third crest. Every crest is separated by a trough to create an
alternating pattern of crests and troughs. A duck or gull at rest on the surface of
the water is observed to bob up-and-down at rather regular time intervals as the
wave passes by. The waves may appear to be plane waves that travel together
as a front in a straight-line direction, perhaps towards a sandy shore. Or the
waves may be circular waves that originate from the point where the disturbances occur; such circular waves travel
across the surface of the water in all directions.
The thought of waves often brings to mind a recent
encounter at the baseball or football stadium when the crowd
enthusiastically engaged in doing the wave. When performed with
reasonably good timing, a noticeable ripple is produced that
travels around the circular stadium or back and forth across a
section of bleachers. The observable ripple results when a group
of enthusiastic fans rise up from their seats, swing their arms up
high, and then sit back down. Beginning in Section 1, the first row
of fans abruptly rise up to begin the wave; as they sit back down,
row 2 begins its motion; as row 2 sits back down, row 3 begins its
motion. The process continues, as each consecutive row becomes involved by a momentary standing up and sitting
back down. The wave is passed from row to row as each individual member of the row becomes temporarily
displaced out of his or her seat, only to return to it as the wave passes by. This mental picture of a stadium
wave will also provide a useful context for the discussion of the physics of wave motion.
Another picture of waves involves the movement of a slinky or similar set of coils. If a slinky is stretched out
from end to end, a wave can be introduced into the slinky by either vibrating the first coil up and down vertically or
back and forth horizontally. A wave will subsequently be seen traveling from one end of the slinky to the other. As
the wave moves along the slinky, each individual coil is seen to move out of place and then return to its original
position. The coils always move in the same direction that the first coil was vibrated. A continued vibration of the
first coil results in a continued back and forth motion of the other coils. If looked at closely, one notices that the
wave does not stop when it reaches the end of the slinky; rather it seems to bounce off the end and head back from
where it started.
We likely have memories from childhood of holding a long jump rope with a friend and vibrating an end up
and down. The up and down vibration of the end of the rope created a disturbance of the rope that subsequently
moved towards the other end. Upon reaching the opposite end, the disturbance often bounced back to return to the
end we were holding. A single disturbance could be created by the single vibration of one end of the rope. On the
other hand, a repeated disturbance would result in a repeated and regular vibration of the rope. The shape of the
pattern formed in the rope was influenced by the frequency at which we vibrated it. If we vibrated the rope rapidly,
then a short wave was created. And if we vibrated the rope less frequently (not as often), a long wave was created.
While we were likely unaware of it as children, we were entering the world of the physics of waves as we
contentedly played with the rope.
Then there is the "Hello, Good Morning!" wave. Whether encountered in the driveway as you begin your trip
to school, on the street on the way to school, in the parking lot upon arrival to school, or in the hallway on the way to
your first class, the "Hello, Good Morning!" wave provides a simple (yet excellent) example of physics in action. The
simple back and forth motion of the hand is called a wave. When Mom commands us to "wave to Mr. Smith," she is
telling us to raise our hand and to temporarily or even repeatedly vibrate it back and forth. The hand is raised,
moved to the left, and then back to the far right and finally returns to its original position. Energy is put into the hand
and the hand begins its back-and-forth vibrational motion. And we call the process of doing it "waving." Soon we will
see how this simple act is representative of the nature of a physical wave.
We also encountered waves in Math class in the form of the sine and cosine function. We often plotted y =
B•sine (A•x) on our calculator or by hand and observed that its graphical shape resembled the characteristic shape
of a wave. There was a crest and a trough and a repeating pattern. If we changed the constant A in the equation,
we noticed that we could change the length of the repeating pattern. And if we changed B in the equation, we
noticed that we changed the height of the pattern. In math class, we encountered the underlying mathematical
functions that describe the physical nature of waves.
Finally, we are familiar with microwaves and visible light waves. While we have never seen them, we
believe that they exist because we have witnessed how they carry energy from one location to another. And
similarly, we are familiar with radio waves and sound waves. Like microwaves, we have never seen them. Yet we
believe they exist because we have witnessed the signals that they carry from one location to another and we have
even learned how to tune into those signals through use of our ears or a tuner on a television or radio. Waves, as
we will learn, carry energy from one location to another. And if the frequency of those waves can be changed, then
we can also carry a complex signal that is capable of transmitting an idea or thought from one location to another.
Waves are everywhere in nature. Our understanding of the physical world is not complete until we
understand the nature, properties and behaviors of waves.
b. What Is A Wave?
A wave can be described as a disturbance that travels through a medium from one location to another
location. Consider a slinky wave as an example of a wave. When the slinky is stretched from end to end and is held
at rest, it assumes a natural position known as the equilibrium or rest position. The coils of the slinky naturally
assume this position, spaced equally far apart. To introduce a wave into the slinky, the first particle is displaced or
moved from its equilibrium or rest position. The particle might be moved upwards or downwards, forwards or
backwards; but once moved, it is returned to its original equilibrium or rest position. The act of moving the first coil
of the slinky in a given direction and then returning it to its equilibrium position creates a disturbance in the slinky.
We can then observe this disturbance moving through the slinky from one end to the other. If the first coil of the
slinky is given a single back-and-forth vibration, then we call the observed motion of the disturbance through the
slinky a slinky pulse. A pulse is a single disturbance moving through a medium from one location to another
location. However, if the first coil of the slinky is continuously and periodically vibrated in a back-and-forth manner,
we would observe a repeating disturbance moving within the slinky that endures over some prolonged period of
time. The repeating and periodic disturbance that moves through a medium from one location to another is referred
to as a wave.
What is a Medium?
But what is meant by the word medium? A medium is a substance or material that carries the wave. You
have perhaps heard of the phrase news media. The news media refers to the various institutions (newspaper
offices, television stations, radio stations, etc.) within our society that carry the news from one location to another.
The news moves through the media. The media doesn't make the news and the media isn't the same as the news.
The news media is merely the thing that carries the news from its source to various locations. In a similar manner, a
wave medium is the substance that carries a wave (or disturbance) from one location to another. The wave medium
is not the wave and it doesn't make the wave; it merely carries or transports the wave from its source to other
locations. In the case of our slinky wave, the medium through that the wave travels is the slinky coils. In the case of
a water wave in the ocean, the medium through which the wave travels is the ocean water. In the case of a sound
wave moving from the church choir to the pews, the medium through which the sound wave travels is the air in the
room. And in the case of the stadium wave, the medium through which the stadium wave travels is the fans that are
in the stadium.
Particle-to-Particle Interaction
To fully understand the nature of a wave, it is important to consider the medium as a collection of
interacting particles. In other words, the medium is composed of parts that are capable of interacting with each
other. The interactions of one particle of the medium with the next adjacent particle allow the disturbance to travel
through the medium. In the case of the slinky wave, the particles or interacting parts of the medium are the
individual coils of the slinky. In the case of a sound wave in air, the particles or interacting parts of the medium are
the individual molecules of air. And in the case of a stadium wave, the particles or interacting parts of the medium
are the fans in the stadium.
Consider the presence of a wave in a slinky. The first
coil becomes disturbed and begins to push or pull on the second
coil; this push or pull on the second coil will displace the second
coil from its equilibrium position. As the second coil becomes
displaced, it begins to push or pull on the third coil; the push or
pull on the third coil displaces it from its equilibrium position. As
the third coil becomes displaced, it begins to push or pull on the
fourth coil. This process continues in consecutive fashion, with
each individual particle acting to displace the adjacent particle.
Subsequently, the disturbance travels through the medium. The medium can be pictured as a series of particles
connected by springs. As one particle moves, the spring connecting it to the next particle begins to stretch and
apply a force to its adjacent neighbor. As this neighbor begins to move, the spring attaching this neighbor to its
neighbor begins to stretch and apply a force on its adjacent neighbor.
A Wave Transports Energy and Not Matter
When a wave is present in a medium (that is, when there is a disturbance moving through a medium), the
individual particles of the medium are only temporarily displaced from their rest position. There is always a force
acting upon the particles that restores them to their original position. In a slinky wave, each coil of the slinky
ultimately returns to its original position. In a water wave, each molecule of the water ultimately returns to its original
position. And in a stadium wave, each fan in the bleacher ultimately returns to its original position. It is for this
reason, that a wave is said to involve the movement of a disturbance without the movement of matter. The particles
of the medium (water molecules, slinky coils, stadium fans) simply vibrate about a fixed position as the pattern of
the disturbance moves from one location to another location.
Waves are said to be an energy transport phenomenon. As a disturbance moves through a medium from
one particle to its adjacent particle, energy is being transported from one end of the medium to the other. In a slinky
wave, a person imparts energy to the first coil by doing work upon it. The first coil receives a large amount of energy
that it subsequently transfers to the second coil. When the first coil returns to its original position, it possesses the
same amount of energy as it had before it was displaced. The first coil transferred its energy to the second coil. The
second coil then has a large amount of energy that it subsequently transfers to the third coil. When the second coil
returns to its original position, it possesses the same amount of energy as it had before it was displaced. The third
coil has received the energy of the second coil. This process of energy transfer continues as each coil interacts with
its neighbor. In this manner, energy is transported from one end of the slinky to the other, from its source to another
location.
This characteristic of a wave as an energy transport phenomenon distinguishes waves from other types of
phenomenon. Consider a common phenomenon observed at a softball game - the collision of a bat with a ball. A
batter is able to transport energy from her to the softball by means of a bat. The batter applies a force to the bat,
thus imparting energy to the bat in the form of kinetic energy. The bat then carries this energy to the softball and
transports the energy to the softball upon collision. In this example, a bat is used to transport energy from the player
to the softball. However, unlike wave phenomena, this phenomenon involves the transport of matter. The bat must
move from its starting location to the contact location in order to transport energy. In a wave phenomenon, energy
can move from one location to another, yet the particles of matter in the medium return to their fixed position. A
wave transports its energy without transporting matter.
Waves are seen to move through an ocean or lake; yet the water always returns to its rest position. Energy
is transported through the medium, yet the water molecules are not transported. Proof of this is the fact that there is
still water in the middle of the ocean. The water has not moved from the middle of the ocean to the shore. If we
were to observe a gull or duck at rest on the water, it would merely bob up-and-down in a somewhat circular fashion
as the disturbance moves through the water. The gull or duck always returns to its original position. The gull or duck
is not transported to the shore because the water on which it rests is not transported to the shore. In a water wave,
energy is transported without the transport of water.
The same thing can be said about a stadium wave. In a stadium wave, the fans do not get out of their seats
and walk around the stadium. We all recognize that it would be silly (and embarrassing) for any fan to even
contemplate such a thought. In a stadium wave, each fan rises up and returns to the original seat. The disturbance
moves through the stadium, yet the fans are not transported. Waves involve the transport of energy without the
transport of matter.
In conclusion, a wave can be described as a disturbance that travels through a medium, transporting
energy from one location (its source) to another location without transporting matter. Each individual particle of the
medium is temporarily displaced and then returns to its original equilibrium positioned.
c. Categories of Waves
Waves come in many shapes and forms. While all waves share some basic characteristic properties and
behaviors, some waves can be distinguished from others based on some observable (and some non-observable)
characteristics. It is common to categorize waves based on these distinguishing characteristics.
Longitudinal versus Transverse Waves versus Surface Waves
One way to categorize waves is on the basis of the direction of movement of the individual particles of the
medium relative to the direction that the waves travel. Categorizing waves on this basis leads to three notable
categories: transverse waves, longitudinal waves, and surface waves.
A transverse wave is a wave in which particles of the medium move in a direction perpendicular to the
direction that the wave moves. Suppose that a slinky is stretched out in a horizontal direction across the classroom
and that a pulse is introduced into the slinky on the left end by vibrating the first coil up and down. Energy will begin
to be transported through the slinky from left to right. As the energy is transported from left to right, the individual
coils of the medium will be displaced upwards and downwards. In this case, the particles of the medium move
perpendicular to the direction that the pulse moves. This type of wave is a transverse wave. Transverse waves are
always characterized by particle motion being perpendicular to wave motion.
A longitudinal wave is a wave in which particles of the medium move in a direction parallel to the direction
that the wave moves. Suppose that a slinky is stretched out in a horizontal direction across the classroom and that
a pulse is introduced into the slinky on the left end by vibrating the first coil left and right. Energy will begin to be
transported through the slinky from left to right. As the energy is transported from left to right, the individual coils of
the medium will be displaced leftwards and rightwards. In this case, the particles of the medium move parallel to the
direction that the pulse moves. This type of wave is a longitudinal wave. Longitudinal waves are always
characterized by particle motion being parallel to wave motion.
A sound wave traveling through air is a classic example of a longitudinal wave. As a sound wave moves
from the lips of a speaker to the ear of a listener, particles of air vibrate back and forth in the same direction and the
opposite direction of energy transport. Each individual particle pushes on its neighboring particle so as to push it
forward. The collision of particle #1 with its neighbor serves to restore particle #1 to its original position and displace
particle #2 in a forward direction. This back and forth motion of particles in the direction of energy transport creates
regions within the medium where the particles are pressed together and other regions where the particles are
spread apart. Longitudinal waves can always be quickly identified by the presence of such regions. This process
continues along the chain of particles until the sound wave reaches the ear of the listener.
Waves traveling through a solid medium can be either transverse waves or longitudinal waves. Yet waves
traveling through the bulk of a fluid (such as a liquid or a gas) are always longitudinal waves. Transverse waves
require a relatively rigid medium in order to transmit their energy. As one particle begins to move it must be able to
exert a pull on its nearest neighbor. If the medium is not rigid as is the case with fluids, the particles will slide past
each other. This sliding action that is characteristic of liquids and gases prevents one particle from displacing its
neighbor in a direction perpendicular to the energy transport. It is for this reason that only longitudinal waves are
observed moving through the bulk of liquids such as our oceans. Earthquakes are capable of producing both
transverse and longitudinal waves that travel through the solid structures of the Earth. When seismologists began to
study earthquake waves they noticed that only longitudinal waves were capable of traveling through the core of the
Earth. For this reason, geologists believe that the Earth's core consists of a liquid - most likely molten iron.
While waves that travel within the depths of the ocean are longitudinal waves, the waves that travel along
the surface of the oceans are referred to as surface waves. A surface wave is a wave in which particles of the
medium undergo a circular motion. Surface waves are neither longitudinal nor transverse. In longitudinal and
transverse waves, all the particles in the entire bulk of the medium move in a parallel and a perpendicular direction
(respectively) relative to the direction of energy transport. In a surface wave, it is only the particles at the surface of
the medium that undergo the circular motion. The motion of particles tends to decrease as one proceeds further
from the surface.
Any wave moving through a medium has a source. Somewhere along the medium, there was an initial
displacement of one of the particles. For a slinky wave, it is usually the first coil that becomes displaced by the hand
of a person. For a sound wave, it is usually the vibration of the vocal chords or a guitar string that sets the first
particle of air in vibrational motion. At the location where the wave is introduced into the medium, the particles that
are displaced from their equilibrium position always moves in the same direction as the source of the vibration. So if
you wish to create a transverse wave in a slinky, then the first coil of the slinky must be displaced in a direction
perpendicular to the entire slinky. Similarly, if you wish to create a longitudinal wave in a slinky, then the first coil of
the slinky must be displaced in a direction parallel to the entire slinky.
2. Cathy and Mac are conducting a wave experiment using a slinky. Cathy introduces a disturbance into the slinky
by giving it a quick back and forth jerk. Mac places his cheek (facial) at the opposite end of the slinky. Using the
terminology of this unit, describe what Mac experiences as the pulse reaches the other end of the slinky.
3. Mac and Tyke are experimenting with pulses on a rope. They vibrate an end up and down to create the pulse
and observe it moving from end to end. How does the position of a point on the rope, before the pulse comes,
compare to the position after the pulse has passed?
4. Minute after minute, hour after hour, day after day, ocean waves continue to splash onto the shore. Explain why
the beach is not completely submerged and why the middle of the ocean has not yet been depleted of its water
supply.
5. A medium is able to transport a wave from one location to another because the particles of the medium are ____.
a. frictionless c. able to interact
b. isolated from one another d. very light
6. A transverse wave is transporting energy from east to west. The particles of the medium will move_____.
a. east to west only c. north to south only
b. both eastward and westward d. both northward and southward
7. A wave is transporting energy from left to right. The particles of the medium are moving back and forth in a
leftward and rightward direction. This type of wave is known as a ____.
a. mechanical b. electromagnetic
c. transverse d. longitudinal
8. Describe how the fans in a stadium must move in order to produce a longitudinal stadium wave.
9. A sound wave is a mechanical wave, not an electromagnetic wave. This means that
a. particles of the medium move perpendicular to the direction of energy transport.
b. a sound wave transports its energy through a vacuum.
c. particles of the medium regularly and repeatedly oscillate about their rest position.
d. a medium is required in order for sound waves to transport energy.
10. A science fiction film depicts inhabitants of one spaceship (in outer space) hearing the sound of a nearby
spaceship as it zooms past at high speeds. Critique the physics of this film.
11. If you strike a horizontal rod vertically from above, what can be said about the waves created in the rod?
a. The particles vibrate horizontally along the direction of the rod.
b. The particles vibrate vertically, perpendicular to the direction of the rod.
c. The particles vibrate in circles, perpendicular to the direction of the rod.
d. The particles travel along the rod from the point of impact to its end.
12. Which of the following is not a characteristic of mechanical waves?
a. They consist of disturbances or oscillations of a medium.
b. They transport energy.
c. They travel in a direction that is at right angles to the direction of the particles of the medium.
d. They are created by a vibrating source.
13. The sonar device on a fishing boat uses underwater sound to locate fish. Would you expect sonar to be a
longitudinal or a transverse wave?