College of Education

REPORTER:
CARTUJANO, GESSCA S.
LOPEZ, ABIGAIL L.
DIONESIO, JESSA MAE A.

CHAPTER 2
(USE AND CARE OF THE SEWING MACHINE)
Lesson 1: Names and different parts of Sewing Machine and its functions

INTRODUCTION
Today I will explain all the different parts of a Vintage Sewing Machine and their
functions.

Parts of a Vintage Sewing Machine and Their Function

 College of Education
1. Foot pedal
It controls the speed of the machine which depends on the force exerted on it. But it is
not an essential part of high-speed sewing machines as the machine speed can be set
by one single adjustment and start and stop of the sewing machine is then controlled
with the push of a button.

2. Machine Head:
When you hear the term Machine Head, it’s describing the outer shell of a sewing
machine. Sometimes ads for vintage sewing machines describe a sewing machine as
‘Machine head only.
 College of Education
3. UNDER BED:
To see the Under Bed of a vintage sewing machine, gently tip back the machine in its
case or cabinet. It’s a good idea to keep one arm on it or provide support at the back.
The inner moving parts from the machine arm connect to the gears (under the 2
circles in pic) and spin the bobbin case in order to make a stitch

Top View Of A Vintage Sewing Sewing Machine.

Here’s a view from the top. See the metal spike, that is the Spool Pin. It’s either metal
or plastic. It is where you place your spool of thread. The little red felt circle is there
to protect the enamel coating while the spool of cotton spins around. The Light and
Light Switch are on the front or back of Vintage Sewing Machines. It depends on the
country of manufacture. Some are removable if needed.
 College of Education
4. PRESSER BAR ADJUSTER
When you are sewing heavy or light fabrics, you can use the Presser Bar Adjuster to
put more or less pressure on the fabric you’re sewing. This stops the fabric from
pulling and helps the feed dogs.

5. Bobbin winder:
It is used to wind the bobbin thread on the empty bobbin. Bobbin winders can be
located at the top or right side of the machine.
 College of Education
6. Reverse lever:
It is situated on the front side of the machine. This is used for making reverse
stitching while sewing at the end of every seam to secure it.

7. Spool pin and holder::

It holds the sewing thread besides controls the sewing thread direction as it goes
through the machine.

8. Upper tension:
It determines the pressure placed on thread as it moves between the tension discs. The
higher the number, the more pressure/tension there is and vice versa. Older models
 College of Education
don’t have numbers, so you get to know your tension by how much you turn the dial
either way.

9. Thread Guides and Thread Take-Up Lever:

All sewing machines, vintage or modern have thread guides and a thread take up
lever. The thread guides are there to guide and position your thread to main parts of
the sewing machine, in order for a regular stitch and tension to be maintained.

10. Slide Plate and Throat Plate:

The Throat Plate and Slide Plate are both removable parts of your VSM. The slide
plate on the left is either slid to the left or towards you to gain access to the bobbin
 College of Education
area. Once a bobbin is threaded, you place it inside the bobbin casing and once picked
up by the upper thread, you can start sewing.

11. Bobbin Case:

After sliding the slide plate to the left, the Bobbin Case is exposed. It houses the
Bobbin and also has its own adjustable lower tension. It’s not a tension that needs a
lot of adjusting.

12. Side View of VSM parts

Presser Bar Adjuster earlier. The barProsser Bar extends down below the knob. It
determines how much pressure is put on fabric as it’s fed through the machine.
Presser Bar Lifter. Then, after sewing a seam, lift the presser bar lifter upwards and
pull the fabric out from under the presser foot.
 College of Education

13. Side View of VSM parts

The Needle Bar houses the Needle Clamp and needle at the bottom. It’s what moves
up and down with the threaded needle to form a stitch in fabric

14. HandWheel:
The Hand wheel, also known as a balance wheel or fly wheel, spins and moves the
inner parts of your sewing machine and in turn, moves the needle up and down. Hand
wheels attach to a motor via a belt and pulley.
There is a smaller wheel inside your handwheel. This is a clutch release knob.
Whenever winding a bobbin, turn this slightly until it feels loose.
 College of Education

(HIGH-SPEED SEWING MACHINE)

INTRODUCTION:
There are different types of machines and equipment are used in garment industry to
manufacture garments. Among them sewing machine plays an important role in
apparel manufacturing industry. There are a lot of sewing machines used in garment
industry. So it is essential to know about sewing machine. If you know the basic parts
of sewing machine an how they work is an essential part of sewing. It enables you to
properly use your machine and makes troubleshooting easier when problems do arise.

Parts of a Sewing Machine and Their Functions:

The basic sewing machine components are shown in Figure-1 and their functions with
pictures are described below.
 College of Education

Functions of different parts of sewing machine with images

Sewing machine parts name and their functions are described below.

1. Foot pedal:
It controls the speed of the machine which depends on the force exerted on it. But it is
not an essential part of high-speed sewing machines as the machine speed can be set
by one single adjustment and start and stop of the sewing machine is then controlled
with the push of a button.
 College of Education
2. Power cord and switch:
The electricity for the machine is supplied by the power cord which has to be
connected tightly to the machine for constant supply of power. The power switch is
used for switching ON and OFF of the sewing machines electrically.

3. Hand wheel:
It is used for slowly raising and lowering the sewing needle manually to provide
better control to position fabric under the needle. The clutch knob positioned inside
the wheel acts as a safety feature, that is, when the knob is pulled out, it avoids the
needle from jabbing up and down while winding a bobbin. Hand wheel sewing
machine
 College of Education
4. Reverse lever:
It is situated on the front side of the machine. This is used for making reverse
stitching while sewing at the end of every seam to secure it.

5. Spool pin and holder:

It holds the sewing thread besides controls the sewing thread direction as it goes
through the machine.
 College of Education
6. Bobbin winder:
It is used to wind the bobbin thread on the empty bobbin. Bobbin winders can be
located at the top or right side of the machine.

7. Pattern selector:
It is used to decide the kind of stitch to be sewn on the fabric, such as straight stitches
or zigzag or an embroidery stitch. Based on the machine type, a variety of stitches can
be selected beside straight stitches.

8. Stitch length adjustment:

 College of Education
Stitch length determines the length of the stitch
The range on the machine is from 0 to 4. 0 is the shortest stitch, 4 is the longest.
The stitch length adjustment adjusts the length of stitches the sewing machine makes.
The adjustment takes place at the feed dog not the machine needle.
Shortening the stitch length shortens the amount of fabric that is fed under the presser
foot before the needle comes down and vice versa.

9. Tension disks:
Thread tension determines the looseness or firmness of the stitch. Tensions disks
control the pressure applied to the thread for uniform feed to the machine needle. The
main functions of tension device is to
Position the thread to needle
Regulate the flow of the thread
Maintain the smoothness in stitching
Control the thread passage precisely

There are two kinds of tension device, such as direct tension device and indirect
tension device. Both types have parts like (a) pressure disk, (b) tension spring, (c)
thumb nut, (d) tension mounting bar and (e) pressure releasing unit.
 College of Education
On high speed and modern machines, the tension dial with numbers graduated on it is
used for varying the tension. The higher the number, the greater the tension and vice
versa. When the tension is adjusted correctly, the stitch line will be straight and even
on either side of the fabric.

10. Needle and needle clamp:

The needle fits into the needle bar, which holds it in place with a small screw. The
needle clamp is used to fix the needle in place.

11. Take-up lever:

 College of Education
The take-up lever moves up and down during the stitch formation to provide the extra
thread while forming the loop and takes back the needle thread after each stitching to
set the stitch. It is used to regulate the needle thread tension at an optimum level.

12. Presser foot:

It is used to grip the fabric from the top counter to the feed dog; therefore, the feed
dog can move the fabric through the machine. It applies downward pressure on the
material as it is fed under the needle.

13. Presser dial:

 College of Education
The presser dial determines the quantity of pressure to be exerted on the fabric
through the presser foot. Lighter weight fabrics necessitate higher pressure for better
control of fabric during stitching and vice versa.

14. Feed dog:

Feed dogs are a ‘teeth-like’ component that combines with the presser foot to
transport the fabric by one stitch. It also regulates the stitch length by adjusting the
fabric movement per stitch.

15. Face plate:

 College of Education
It is a cover that conceals all the internal working elements of the machine.

16. Throat plate:

It has a hole for the needle to go through to the bobbin casing, a pair of slots for the
feed dog to move and stitching guide lines. It is a removable part, which covers the
bobbin and bottom of the sewing machine.

17. Sewing light:

 College of Education
It aids in threading the needle and allows you to see the stitching in both day and
night.

18. Presser foot lever:

It is used to engage and disengage the presser foot on the fabric against the feed dogs
gently. When it is in the upward position, the tension disks are disengaged and vice
versa.

19. Thread cutter:

 College of Education
Sewing machine thread cutters are usually located behind the needle of the sewing
machine, so that it is convenient while the fabric is moved to the back of the machine,
the sewing thread can be cut using the thread cutter.

20. Slide plate:

It is a plastic cover that protects the bobbin case from the dirt and dust. It also gives
the open space for accessing the bobbin zone under the sewing machine for changing
the bobbins and other maintenance work to be carried out in this area.

21. Bobbin case:

 College of Education
It is the case where the bobbin has to be fixed. This can be found under the needle
plate and usually has a piece of plastic that flips up to cover the bobbin case when not
sewing. Bobbin cases are not exchangeable in different sewing machines.

22. Bobbin:
A bobbin is a small package that carries the bottom sewing thread and is fitted onto
the bobbin case. Bobbins are filled on the bobbin winder and the thread should be
evenly distributed on the bobbin.

LESSON 2: Minor troubles and causes of a Sewing Machine

 College of Education
Introduction:
There's nothing worse than working with an uncooperative sewing machine! Broken
or tangled threads, skipped stitches, snapped needles—it can make for a very
frustrating experience. But most of these issues can be resolved without taking your
machine in for expensive repairs.

1. Bent or broken needles

This is a problematic issue that can be dangerous as well as annoying. Always use a
new needle for a new project. This prevents needles from getting dull or hooked at the
tip, which can damage your fabric. Make sure you're using the right type of needle for
the project at hand— knit fabrics do best with a ballpoint, or jersey needle, while
leather, vinyl, or denim will need sharp, sturdy needles. If your needle breaks or
bends, stop sewing immediately.

2. Fabric not feeding

Make sure if your machine has a drop-feed setting that it has not been activated, and
that you don't have an embroidery or darning plate covering the feed dogs. You'll also
want to be sure that your presser foot is down, and is set to the correct pressure for
your fabric—too little or too much pressure results in a poor feed.
 College of Education

3. Thread keeps breaking

Check the type of thread that you're using. Delicate threads designed for hand sewing
are not suitable for use in a sewing machine. Your top and bottom threads should also
be of the same weight.

4. Machine is skipping stitches

 College of Education
There are several possible reasons for your machine to skip stitches. First, check that
your needle is installed correctly, not bent or otherwise damaged, and that you're
using the right type of needle for your project. If the top thread is not reaching the
bobbin, the threads will not lock properly, resulting in a skipped stitch. Re-thread your
machine, both top and bobbin threads, and test.

5. Bobbin tension not consistent

If you find yourself constantly adjusting the tension of your bobbin thread, check the
bobbin itself. Plastic bobbins especially can wear, causing them to grow loose within
the bobbin housing and making it difficult to maintain the correct tension.

6. Sewing machine seizes up or won't sew

 College of Education
It's not uncommon to need to give your machine a bit of help by turning the
handwheel, especially when you're just getting a seam started. However, if you need
to force the wheel to turn, or the machine doesn't pick up after a bit of assistance, stop
what you're doing. Likely, your fabric is too tough for your machine to sew, and
continuing to try will damage your machine. If you're not working with a particularly
tough fabric, make sure that your needle is installed correctly and is the right type.
Remove it to check that it isn't bent. If you're still having issues with your machine
not sewing, check your manual for cleaning and maintenance tips. A build-up of fuzz
and lint can make it tough for your machine's mechanisms to work correctly.

7. Needle comes unthreaded before sewing

Before threading your machine, just make sure that the needle is at its highest point.
You can do this by winding the handwheel toward yourself (always wind it toward
yourself since this advances the machine—winding it backward can cause threads to
tangle) while watching the needle. Some machines also have an "up/down" function
that allows you to raise or lower the needle automatically to its highest or lowest
point.
 College of Education

8. Thread fraying, shredding, and breaking

If your thread looks as though it's been through the mill, it's probably an issue with
your needle. Make sure that your thread and needle sizes are compatible—your needle
needs to be large enough for the thread you're using to pass through the eye without
catching or pulling.

9. Fabric feed is inconsistent

Even seams are the mark of a good sewist, but it can be terribly difficult to manage if
your machine isn't drawing the fabric evenly. There are several possible reasons for
uneven feed, and the culprit, not surprisingly, is usually the feed dogs. If your
 College of Education
machine is older, it's possible the feed dogs may have worn down enough that they
aren't catching the fabric evenly. They can typically be replaced, and your machine
can be running good as new in no time. If your machine is new, try cleaning around
the feed dogs.

10. Machine is making strange noises

Step one: stop sewing! As soon as you hear unexpected thumps or clunks coming
from your machine, take your foot off the pedal. It's likely that your machine just
needs a good cleaning, so check through your manual for the recommended
maintenance procedure. Clean and oil your machine according to the instructions, and
then give it test on a bit of scrap fabric.

11. The machine is running, but the needle won't move

Though initially perplexing, this problem has a simple solution. Your machine is
likely set in bobbin-winding mode, so check that the lever or winding post for your
bobbin is in the correct position.

12. Seams are puckered and distorted

While a bit of unevenness in a seam can be dealt with by pressing, puckered and
distorted seams may actually be a problem with your machine. First, check the weight
of the thread you're using. A thick, stiff thread will cause distortion in lightweight
 College of Education
fabrics, and will also throw off your tension settings. Tension is the second thing to
check, if your thread is sufficiently lightweight for the project. Another possibility is
uneven feed. If your presser foot pressure is correct, and your feed dogs are working
properly, try switching to a walking foot, which can help even out the feed for
slippery or heavyweight fabrics.
 College of Education
Reference:
https%3A%2F%2Fptop.only.wip.la%3A443%2Fhttps%2Fwunderlabel.com%2Fen-gb%2Fblog%2Fp%2F17-common-
sewing-machine-problems-solve
%2F&h=AT2rFMxU9t22HN1C5CUc5QCAfj1foVF70T-
oFSEHOHeNORMM6jOtQwNj3TkC_mu6zC9hkSYzQnXR4MsCcX9ZJKI5RVRgw
lR0pVmVCtK9ED1IkDXlLe6a3TESv2JvD0MHsmj0hA
https%3A%2F%2Fptop.only.wip.la%3A443%2Fhttps%2Fmyvintagesewingjourney.com%2Fparts-of-a-vintage-sewing-
machine-and-their functions
%2F&h=AT1ms_4mlUaAYdD5gdwPjzcYtZv6ql_cdoD3UH1evbtzFchnp_szQOKW
OqGLt_s9B8iO7ix7mUoNwYUTpXrzz5kRjgNf8HqkTPdnN1nE1Wd0XrBTReDtiiR
Lk6cuYGKA8RP49w
https%3A%2F%2Fptop.only.wip.la%3A443%2Fhttps%2Ffashion2apparel.com%2Fsewing-machine-parts-and-functions
%2F&h=AT1ms_4mlUaAYdD5gdwPjzcYtZv6ql_cdoD3UH1evbtzFchnp_szQOKW
OqGLt_s9B8iO7ix7mUoNwYUTpXrzz5kRjgNf8HqkTPdnN1nE1Wd0XrBTReDtiiR
Lk6cuYGKA8RP49w