BC – IA 102 (PLUMBING – PQF-L5)

PLUMBING-
PQF-L5
(Midterm)

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LESSON 1 – OBJECTIVES OF PLUMBING

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lesson, the learners should have:
1. Discussed the objectives of the plumbing based on the National Plumbing Code of the Philippines.
2. Explained the conditions for an effective water supply in a building.

DISCUSSION
PLUMBING
Plumbing is the art and technique of installing pipes, fixtures, and other apparatuses in buildings for
bringing in the supply of liquids, substances and/or ingredients and removing them; and such water, liquid and
other carried-wastes hazardous to health, sanitation, life and property pipes and fixtures after installation.

THE PLUMBER
The plumber is the one who works or engages in the business of installing in buildings the pipes
fixtures and other apparatus for bringing in the water supply and removing liquid and waterborne wastes.

There are three categories of plumbers based upon their graces of experiences.
They are:
1. Apprentice plumber- a beginner at the trade who usually serves for 3 to 5 years as helper to a journeyman.
2. Journeyman plumber- has served his apprenticeship and is competent to perform the tasks of installing and
repairing plumbing.
3. Master plumber- a person technically and legally qualified and licensed to practice the profession of master
plumbing without limitations in accordance with Republic Act 1378, having passed the examinations conducted
by the Professional Regulation Commission (PRC), has received a certificate of registration from the Board of
Master Plumbing and possesses the current license to practice. (Section 214.5 NPC 200)

THE PLUMBING CODE

The improper installation of plumbing may affect the health of the occupants of a building and create a
center point for the spread of disease. The possibility is of sufficient public interests to require the regulation of
plumbing by law. The right of the government to regulate the details of plumbing is based on the principle of
the protection of public health.
The basic goal of the National Plumbing Code of the Philippines is to ensure the qualified observance of
the latest provision of the plumbing and environmental laws.
THE BASIC PRINCIPLES GOVERNING THE NATIONAL PLUMBING CODE
1. All premises intended for human use or habitation shall be provided with a supply of pure and wholesome
water, neither connected to unsafe water supply nor subject to backflow or back- siphonage.
2. Plumbing fixtures, devices and appurtenances shall be supplied with water in sufficient volume and pressure
adequate to function satisfactorily and without undue noise.
3. Plumbing shall be designed and adjusted to use the minimum quantity of water consistent with proper
performance and cleaning.

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4. Devices for heating and storing water shall be so designed and installed as to prevent dangers from explosion
through overheating.
5. Every building abutting on a street, alley or basement with a public sewer shall connect its plumbing fixtures
to the sewer system.
6. Each family dwelling unit shall have at least one water closet, one kitchen type sink, a lavatory and a bathtub
or shower to meet the basic requirements of sanitation and personal hygiene.
7. Plumbing fixtures shall be made of smooth non-absorbent material, free from concealed fouling surfaces and
shall be located in ventilated enclosures.
8. The drainage system shall be designed, constructed and maintained to safeguard against fouling, deposit of
solids, clogging and with adequate cleanouts so arranged that the pipes may be readily cleaned.
9. All piping shall be of durable NAMPAP-approved materials, free from defective workmanship, designed and
constructed by Registered Master Plumbers to ensure satisfactory service.
10. Each fixture directly connected to the drainage system shall be equipped with a water-sealed trap.
11. The drainage pipes piping system shall be designed to provide adequate circulation of air free from
siphonage, aspiration or forcing of trap seals under ordinary use.
12. Vent terminals shall extend to the outer air and installed to prevent clogging and the return of foul air to the
building.
13. Plumbing systems shall be subjected to such tests to effectively disclose all leaks and defects in the
workmanship.
14. Substance which will clog the pipes, produce explosive mixtures, destroy the pipes or their joints or
interfere unduly with the sewage-disposal process shall not be allowed to enter the building drainage system.
15. Proper protection shall be provided to prevent contamination of food, water, sterile goods and similar
materials by backflow of sewage. When necessary, the fixture, device or appliance shall be connected indirectly
with the building drainage system.
16. No water closet shall be located in a room or compartment which is not properly lighted and ventilated.
17. If there is no sewer system in the area, suitable provision shall be made for the disposal of building sewage
by some accepted method of sewage treatment and disposal, such as a septic tank.
18. Where a plumbing drainage system may be subject to backflow of sewage, suitable provision shall be made
to prevent its overflow in the building.
19. Plumbing systems shall be maintained in serviceable condition by Registered Master Plumbers.
20. All plumbing fixtures shall be installed properly spaced, to be accessible for their intended use.
21. Plumbing shall be installed with due regard to the preservation of the strength of structural members and
the prevention of damage to walls and other surfaces through fixture usage.
22. Sewage or other waste from plumbing systems, which may be deleterious to surface or sub-surface waters
shall not be discharged into the ground or into any waterway, unless first rendered innocuous through
subjection to some acceptable form of treatment.

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LESSON 2 – PLUMBING TOOLS AND MATERIALS

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lesson, the learners should have:
1. Defined and identified the common tools and materials used in plumbing.
2. Determined the different pipe sizes and fittings.

DISCUSSION
BEST PLUMBING TOOLS FOR PIPE WORK

Tubing Cutter

A tool used by plumbers to cut through plastic tubing, with each one having its own
cutting range.

Hacksaw
Plumbers typically carry hacksaws so that they can cut through a variety of items,
including nuts, bolts, pipes, and screws. Make sure you keep spare blades around too!

Hole Saw
A hole saw is used to cut perfectly round holes in a variety of materials.

Mole grips
Used to hold metal parts in place during welding, such as when a plumber is using a
plumber’s torch to seal copper piping by soldering it.

Pipe and tube benders

A tool used to bend a range of piping and tubing instead of creating a fitting.

Pliers
These are used every day by plumbers. Easily tighten or loosen nuts and bolts that
wrenches can’t grab onto.

Plumber’s Torch

A plumber’s torch is a handheld tool used to apply heat to a precise area of piping,
allowing you to seal new piping for installs and replacements.

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Press Fitting Systems

Iron Pipe Size (IPS) press fitting systems enable plumbers to press a connection onto
a pipe, resulting in a watertight connection or seal.

Flashlight
Plumbers are commonly required to go into dark spaces, such as basements, so
having a flashlight handy is always a good idea.

Thread sealing tape (“Plumber’s Tape”)

Thread sealing tape is used to patch or prevent leaks in piping.

Bucket
Even when the water is turned off in the home, there is still going to be some water
leakage, so it’s smart to keep a bucket around.

Ratcheting Pipe Threader Set

This tool allows you cut threads into pipe so that it can accept fittings when joining
pipes together.

Plumber Wrenches
Plumbers use pipe wrenches to tighten and loosen nuts and fittings on pipes. Two of these are often
used together, one for holding a pipe in place and the other for rotating a nut or fitting.

Adjustable Wrench
Also known as an adjustable spanner or crescent, is a tool used to loosen or tighten a
nut or bolt.

Basin wrench (“Sink Wrench”)

A T-shaped tool that plumbers use specifically on faucets. It’s unique design allows
plumbers to turn fasteners in confined spaces that would otherwise be impossible to
reach.

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Faucet key
An X-shaped tool that plumbers use to open and close spigots and sillcocks.

Torque wrench
A tool used to apply a specific torque to a nut or bolt.

Internal pipe wrench

Commonly used to remove old rusted fittings on galvanized pipe.

Plumber Drain Cleaning Tools

Plungers
A tool used to clear up blockages in drains or pipes, commonly used in the household
toilet.

Hand Auger
A hand auger has a long, flexible metal wire with a corkscrew auger attached on
[email protected] end used to unclog drain lines.

Snake machine (“Plumber’s Snake”)

A flexible and slender auger used to clear particularly difficult clogs.

Drain inspection camera

A camera that allows the plumber to see any issues with a specific pipe. Usually used on
sewer lines.

Hydro Jetting Machines

An extremely effective method of clearing up drains and sewer lines. Comes with hose
attachments that will blast water into drain lines and sewer lines.

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PLUMBING SAFETY TOOLS (PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT)

Gloves
Used everyday by plumbers, allows your hands to always have a strong grip and to not
stain your skin with hazardous materials.

Goggles
Goggles protect your eyes from any hazardous materials you come into contact with
while working on a plumbing job.

Heat shields or pads

Protects plumbers and the surrounding environment from any heat damage or fire
during soldering.

TYPES OF PIPE FITTINGS IN PLUMBING SYSTEM

Elbow Pipe Fittings

Elbows are used to change the direction of flow between two pipes. Elbows
are generally available with an angle of 22.5o, 45o and 90o. If pipes are of
same diameter then normal elbows are used otherwise.

Reducer Pipe Fittings

Reducer is a pipe fitting component which reduces the flow size from
larger to smaller by reducing size of pipe. Usually there are two types of
reducers are available. One is concentric reducer which is like cone shaped
with gradual decreasing around the pipe but in this case accumulation of
air may possible and it results in cavitation. Other one is eccentric reducer
which is having one edge parallel to connecting pipe due to which air
accumulation is not possible.

Tee type Pipe Fitting

Tee type fitting is a component of plumbing system which is in T-shape. It
is having one inlet and two outlets, outlets are arranged at 90o to the main
line connection (inlet). It can also be used to combine the flow from two
inlets to one outlet. They are also available in different materials and
different sizes. If the 3 sides of T-fitting are similar in size then it is called
as Equal tee otherwise it is called as Unequal tee.

Cross Type

Cross type fittings contains 4 opening in 4 directions. These are connected when there are
4 pipes are meeting at a point. These fittings generate more amount of stress on pipe as the
temperature changes, because they are located at the center of four connection points.
Cross fittings are generally used for fire sprinkler systems.

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Coupling

A coupling is used to connect the pipes of same diameter. Coupling are also useful if the
pipe is broken or leakage occurs.

Unions

Union is a type of fitting, which functions as similar to coupling. But coupling cannot be
removed after fixing but in this case we can remove the union whenever we needed.
Unions consists nut, male and female ended threads. So, this is also useful for maintaining
purpose of pipe.

Adaptors
If the pipes are not having special ends or plain ends then adaptors make
them threaded either male or female whichever is needed. Adopters are
generally used for copper and PVC pipes. Male adapters contain male
threads and female adapters contains female threads. One end of adapter is
plain which is glued or welded or soldered to the plain pipe end.

Olet
Olets are used when there is standard sizes of fittings are not suitable for our requirement. Sometimes
the inlet pipe size is larger compared to outlet pipes in t-sections then also Olets are used. There are many
types of olets are available. Some important types of olets are:

 Butt-Weldolet
 Socket weld Olet
 Threaded olet
 Elbow olet
 Nipple olet
 Lateral olet
 Sweepolet
 Flange olet

Plug

Plug is a component of plumbing component which is generally used to close pipe opening
during inspections and repairs. Plug are generally contains male threads.

Cap

Cap is a type of pipe fitting which function is same as plug but the only difference is plug
contain male threads and cap contain female threads which is screws on the male thread of
pipe. These are available in different materials like rubber, copper, steel, plastic etc.

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Valves in Pipe Fittings

Valves are components of plumbing system which are used to stop or regulate flow of fluid in its path. Different
types of valves are available depending up on their applications.

Diaphragm Butterfly Check Globe Gate

Valve Valve Valve Valve Valve

Some important types of valves and its applications are listed below.

 Gate valve, plug valve and Ball valve – used for isolation only
 Globe valve – used for throttling
 Check valve – used for preventing reverse flow (non-return)
 Butterfly valve – used for isolation as well as throttling
 Diaphragm valve – used for isolation as well as throttling

MAIN PLUMBING PIPES

1. Copper Pipes

Copper is one of the most traditional materials for plumbing pipes and remains a
popular option today. There are two main types of copper pipes that can be used
together to outfit a whole plumbing system:

 Rigid Copper: Rigid, or hard, copper is used throughout a house or building for
the water supply. The material can be cut into pieces and then soldered together.
 Flexible Copper Tubing: Flexible, or soft, copper is malleable and is used in
short runs where space is tight and flexibility is needed, such as in corners or in
a supply line to your faucet.

Pros and Cons of Copper Pipes

Copper pipes have stood the test of time because of some important advantages they have, including:

 Longevity: Copper has proven to be a reliable material that can last at least 50 years.
 Durability: Copper is a sturdy material that is not prone to leakage or corrosion.
 Safety: Bacteria cannot thrive in copper pipes, and copper will not pollute water in any way, so it is safe
to transport drinking water.
 Recyclability: When copper pipes eventually need to be replaced, the material can be recycled.
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 Temperature Tolerance: Copper is able to stand up to extreme temperature changes, including hot
and cold water.

With so many strengths, you may wonder why copper is not used for plumbing in every case. Copper is not
always chosen because it does have some cons compared to other materials. Disadvantages of copper pipes
include:

 Financial Cost: The main deterrent to using copper is the cost. The value of copper as a global
commodity has gone up in recent years.
 Environmental Cost: Environmentally-conscious homeowners may be concerned about the fact that
copper mining and manufacturing take a toll on the environment. So, although copper pipes last a long
time and can be recycled, they are not considered a "green" product.

2. Galvanized Steel Pipes (Galvanized Iron or GI Pipe)

Galvanized piping used to be the material of choice for residential plumbing, and it is
still what many people picture when they think of a plumbing pipe. The steel pipes are
coated in a layer of zinc, which is meant to prevent rusting. The ends of pipes are
threaded so they can be screwed in to each other.

These pipes are undoubtedly strong, but they are no longer used much at all.
Galvanized pipes are still sometimes used to transport non-potable water, but it is too
prone to problems to transport potable water safely. While homes today are very rarely
outfitted with galvanized steel pipes, homes whose plumbing was installed in the 1980s or before may still
have them. If this is the case in your home, you should consider replacing these pipes right away.

Cons of Galvanized Steel Pipes

Though galvanized steel pipes are cheaper than copper, are strong and manage to resist rust for a time, these
pros are far outweighed by the cons, which include:

 Short Lifespan: Galvanized steel pipes last about 20 to 50 years before they begin to break down. This
lifespan may not seem too short, but it pales in comparison to the lifespans of many other piping
materials.
 Rust: Especially in pipes with a small diameter, rust can build up inside over time. In some cases, the
rust can break loose from the inside walls of the pipe and end up mixing with the water as it flows
through. This discolors the water.
 Lead Contamination: If pipes become corroded, lead can leach into the water inside, making it unsafe
to drink.
 Clogs: Over time, mineral build-up inside of galvanized pipes can begin to form clogs that block water
flow.
 Weight: The downside to these pipes being very sturdy is that they are also extremely heavy. This
makes them difficult to work with.
 Vulnerability: When galvanized pipes are damaged, the galvanization on the outside is compromised,
which makes the pipe vulnerable to corrosion in a short amount of time.

3. Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes

Polyvinyl chloride, more commonly known as PVC, has become a popular choice for
plumbing pipes in recent years. This material is a thermoplastic polymer. In other
words, it is made out of a combination of plastic and vinyl. PVC pipes are rigid and
are usually white, cream or grey in color. They are used most often for highly
pressurized water, such as in a home's main water supply line. PVC pipes work in a
variety of applications, including for transporting potable water and for draining.

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Pros and Cons of Polyvinyl Chloride Pipes

PVC pipes have gained popularity because of some important advantages they offer, including:

 Longevity: PVC is not subject to rust or corrosion, so unless it experiences some sort of unexpected
damage, it can last indefinitely. Even the most durable metals used in plumbing pipes cannot live up to
the impressive lifespan of PVC.
 Ability to Handle Pressure: PVC is often used for the main supply line that goes into your home
because it is able to handle high water pressure.
 Ease of Use: PVC is extremely light compared to metal pipes, which makes it easy to transport and to
work with. It is also easy to work with because there is no soldering required to connect pipes. Instead,
pipes are essentially glued together.
 Low Cost: PVC is low in cost as well. Especially compared to copper, PVC is a very inexpensive option
for plumbing pipes.

While PVC has some marked advantages, it has a couple of disadvantages, too. These include:

 Susceptibility to Warping: PVC is not equipped to transport hot water. This is because, like most
plastics, heat can cause the material to warp and melt.
 Size: Sizing options for PVC pipes are limited, which can be an issue at times. Even if your PVC piping is
the perfect size, fittings used to connect PVC pipes can tend to be bulky, which can be problematic in
tight spaces.

4. Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride

Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, shortened to CPVC, is closely related to PVC. Though

both materials are made from the same basic elements, the key difference is that
CPVC is chlorinated. This chemical difference makes CPVC able to withstand
temperature differences in a way that PVC cannot. For this reason, some building
codes call for CPVC in place of PVC for transporting hot water.

Pros and Cons of Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride

CPVC pipes share many of the advantages of PVC, plus one more:

 Longevity: Like PVC, since CPVC is a plastic material, it does not react to corrosive substances and does
not rust, so its lifespan is indefinite.
 Ability to Handle Pressure: CPVC shares PVC's ability to handle high water pressure, making it a good
material for a main water supply line.
 Ease of Use: CPVC is also quite lightweight, which makes it easy to move and work with. CPVC is also
somewhat flexible.
 Low Cost: Though CPVC costs more than PVC, it is still a budget option compared to metal piping
materials.
 Temperature Tolerance: CPVC is able to withstand extreme temperatures up to 200 degrees
Fahrenheit. This equips CPVC to handle hot water transport.

CPVC does not have many clear disadvantages, though it may not always be the best choice. Cons include:

 Indoor Application Only: CPVC is vulnerable to breaking down if exposed to sunlight for extended
periods of time.
 Cost Compared to PVC: Though cost was included as an advantage of CPVC, when comparing it directly
to its close cousin, PVC, it does cost more.

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5. Cross-Linked Polyethylene Pipes

Cross-Linked Polyethylene, or PEX for short, is another plastic material used for
piping. Plastic pipes in general have become a popular type of pipe used in new
homes. This particular plastic material is relatively new on the plumbing scene and
can be used for a variety of plumbing applications. The major difference between
PVC and PEX is that PEX pipes are flexible. This means they can be used in long,
continuous runs.

Pros and Cons of Cross-Linked Polyethylene Pipes

To become the new favorite piping choice among many plumbers and homeowners, this material must come
with some major advantages. These include:

 Longevity: PEX pipes, like PVC and CPVC, are completely rust and corrosion resistant. This means they
can last indefinitely without needing to be replaced, unless they are broken somehow.
 Flexibility: PEX is flexible enough to make 90-degree turns with no problem. It can easily be snaked
into walls — making it a great material for retrofitting — and it is able to extend across the length of a
house with just one long piece.
 Ease of Use: PEX's flexibility makes it very easy to install. When joints are needed, no soldering or even
gluing is required.
 Temperature Tolerance: Another important advantage of PEX over PVC is that PEX is able to
withstand extreme temperatures. It can be used to transport hot water as well as cold.
 Low Cost: Like CPVC, PEX is more expensive than PVC, but, at about $30 per 100 feet of piping, is still
significantly cheaper than copper.

PEX does have a few disadvantages, though one of these PEX plumbing disadvantages has largely been
debunked. PEX pipe problems include:

 Indoor Application Only: PEX piping cannot be used in any outdoor applications since the plastic can
be damaged by UV radiation. Of course, this is not really a disadvantage if you only plan to use PEX
piping indoors.
 Water Taste and Odor: Some types of PEX pipes have been known to affect the taste and odor of
drinking water, especially if the water has stayed in the pipes for some time.
 Possible Safety Concerns: There has been some concern and debate over whether PEX piping has the
potential to contaminate drinking water due to the material's makeup. These concerns have largely
been dispelled, however. Even the strictest environmental regulations in the U.S. now approve PEX
piping, and research has shown that drinking water from PEX pipes does not involve health risks.

ADDITIONAL PLUMBING PIPES

Now that we have looked at some of the most common types of plumbing pipes, let's take a quick look at
several others that are not quite as common. These include stainless steel, cast iron, polybutylene (PB) and
high-density polybutylene (HDPE).

1. Stainless Steel Pipes

Stainless steel piping is actually more expensive than copper piping. A high price point, however, indicates a
high level of quality. Stainless steel pipes are strong and corrosion-resistant. Because of their ability to resist
corrosion, stainless steel pipes are the preferable choice in areas that are susceptible to it, such as coastal
communities.

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2. Cast Iron Pipes

Cast iron used to be a common piping material for drainage

systems, particularly in the first half of the twentieth century,
and it can still be found in many homes today. Cast iron is
extremely strong, durable and heavy. Cast iron also reduces
sound and is heat-resistant.

Despite the advantages of strength and durability, though, a big

disadvantage of cast iron is that it is susceptible to rust over
time. In homes that have cast iron piping, if a pipe rusts all the
way through, that section can be replaced with plastic piping, like PVC. Cast iron pipes come in various sizes,
with the smallest usually being four inches.

3. Polybutylene Pipes

Polybutylene pipes, also referred to simply as PB pipes, were a popular choice for plumbing from the late 1970s
to the mid-1990s. In fact, as many as 10 million homes built during that timeframe included polybutylene
piping of some kind. Polybutylene is a type of plastic resin that was seen as a futuristic material, perfect for
replacing copper.

These grey, plastic pipes were, and are, inexpensive and easy to work with. However, they fell out of favor
because it was demonstrated that PB pipes were prone to leakage at the joints.

4. High-Density Polybutylene Pipes

High-Density Polybutylene pipes, also known as HDPE pipes, are one of the most popular choices for
underground service lines, though they work in a variety of plumbing applications. This is due to HDPE's
durability and ability to resist corrosion.

Some codes call for buried plastic lines to be made from HDPE instead of PVC. HDPE pipes are flexible, so they
require minimal joints. Where they do require joints, heat fusion is used, making these pipes mostly leak-proof.

5. Black Iron Pipes

This type of piping is worth a mention, though it should be understood that it is not meant to be used in
plumbing applications. Black iron pipes were at one time a popular piping material for water supply, but today,
they are only used for conveying natural gas or propane. Black iron is also a popular choice for fire sprinkler
systems since it is especially effective at resisting extreme heat.

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LESSON 3 – CALCULATION AND MENSURATION

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lessons, the learners should have:
1. Identified the two system of measurement.
2. Familiarized the different units in mensuration.
3. Applied the techniques in conversion.

DISCUSSION
As a plumber, you need to familiarize yourself in linear measurement to accurately measure the
materials and area needed for the piping system.

The metric system is an internationally agreed decimal system of measurement created in France in
1799. The International System of Units (SI), the official system of measurement in almost every country in the
world, is based upon the metric system.
In the metric system, each basic type of measurement (length, weight, capacity) has one basic unit of
measure (meter, gram, liter). Conversions are quickly made by multiplying or dividing by factors of 10. It is as
simple as moving the decimal point to the right (for smaller prefixes) or to the left (for larger prefixes).

While the metric system was lawfully accepted for use in the United States in 1866, the US has not
adopted the metric system as its "official" system of measurement. The US English System of measurement
grew out of the manner in which people secured measurements using body parts and familiar objects. For
example, shorter ground distances were measured with the human foot and longer distances were measured
by paces, with one mile being 1,000 paces. Capacities were measured with household items such as cups, pails
(formerly called gallons) and baskets.

Obviously this system allowed for discrepancies between measurements obtained by different
individuals. A standard was eventually set to ensure that all measurements represented the same amount for
everyone.

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LESSON 4 – CUTTING AND JOINING OF PIPES

(Steps and Procedures in Cutting and Joining of Pipes)

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lesson, the learners should have:
1. Identified the steps and procedure in cutting of pipes (PVC, Copper Pipe and GI Steel Pipe).
2. Familiarized the correct procedures especially in cutting GI Steel Pipe using hacksaw and pipe cutting
tool.

DISCUSSION

PIPE CUTTING

Steps:
1. Use a standard tubing cutter to cut copper pipe.
2. Tighten the cutter so that its blade just scores the pipe.
3. Rotate the cutter around the pipe.
4. Slightly tighten the cutter and rotate it around the pipe several times.
5. Repeat until the blade severs the pipe.
6. Cut steel pipe with hacksaw, reciprocating saw or use a steel-pipe tubing cutter.
7. It works similarly to copper-tubing cutter.
8. Saw through plastic PVC pipe with carpenter's handsaw, hacksaw or use PVC pipe handsaw.
9. Plastic pipe can also be cut with a ratcheting PVC cutter.
10. Ratchet the top handle up and down until the blade slices through the pipe.
11. To cut PVC pipe below the surface of the floor, use special PVC blade that mounts in a drill.
12. Run the blade around the inside of the pipe.
13. Flexible PEX is easily cut with a specially made PEX tubing cutter.
14. To use a cast-iron pipe cutter, start by slipping the cutting chain around the pipe.
15. Hook the chain onto the jaw, then ratchet the handle back and forth to snap the pipe in two.

For other references in cutting pipes, please watch the YouTube videos using the links below.

1. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs2c8MKVn5k
2. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dl0GfldpuMs
3. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aQHVyNJErAw
4. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5GuA666hcJY
5. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cu5iz-B921o

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PIPE JOINING

STEP 1

Measure the Pipe

The first step in joining pipe together is to measure the long lengths of pipe.

STEP 2
Mark the pipe, and then cut the pipe using a pipe cutter. It's crucial
that the cut is square; therefore, don't use a hacksaw for cutting copper pipe.
Using a pipe cutter is simple. Adjust the wheels so the blades push into the
pipe, but be careful not to over tighten or you could pinch the pipe --
bending it out of round. Turn the cutter around the pipe (Image 1),
tightening it slightly after every two or three turns. The pipe will eventually
come off. The edges of the pipe will be sharp, so be careful. The same rules of
measuring used for copper pipe apply with CPVC. Always leave enough pipe
for the fitting to fit snug into the fitting's shoulder (Image 2). PVC has its own
tools for cutting. Note: The cut should be square, or it could create a weak
spot in the joint. A ratchet cutter is one of the best options for cutting PVC. Open up the tool, put it into position,
and then squeeze the handle until the blade comes into contact with the pipe (Image 3). Make sure the blade is
straight, and then squeeze the handle until the blade goes all the way through.
STEP 3

Clean and Solder the Pipe

When it comes to joining copper pipe, like anything else, metal oxidizes. The metal reacts with the air
and deteriorates over a long period of time. This makes it difficult when soldering because it won't adhere as
well. In this case, clean the pipe before soldering. Use a piece of emery cloth or a wire brush that fits around the
entire pipe. Scrub the pipe past the area where the fitting will be placed, and then slide the brush tool onto the
pipe and rotate several times. The area should be shiny when finished. You'll also want to clean the insides of
the fitting, and then coat it with flux using a brush designed for this purpose. Flux cleans the area and etches the
surface so that solder will adhere better.
STEP 4

Remove the Burrs from the PVC

After a cut has been made, remove the burrs from the inside and outside of
the pipe. If this isn't done, it could compromise the integrity of the joint. A
file or small knife should do the job. With CPVC, make sure that everything
is as clean as possible. Wipe the pipe and the inside of the fitting clean. Do a
final cleaning by applying a coat of PVC cleaner primer. The cleaner primer
will remove any excess dirt and any manufacturer printing on the pipe.
Wipe the brush around the pipe and inside the fitting a few times until
everything is clean.
STEP 5

Light the Torch

Soldering or sweating a joint is the next step. Note: Make sure all safety gear is in place, such as a fire
extinguisher, soldering pad and safety glasses. If you're working inside of a wall, you may want to use a mister
to wet the area around the torch. Using lead-free solder, you'll need a really hot flame, especially with 3/4" or
larger pipe. Mapp gas would work great in this situation. It's a combination of acetylene and propane, which
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burns consistently hot. These cylinders can be purchased at local home centers. Light the torch by opening the
gas, and then pressing the igniter button. Adjust the flame so that the blue flame is maximized.

STEP 6

Spool Solder
Spool out about 1' of solder, and then move the flame back and forth on the
joint. To help ensure uniform heating, keep the flame moving around the
fitting. The color of the pipe will determine when it's time to apply the
solder. The copper will take on a shiny appearance, and the flux will melt.
Touch the lip of the solder to the pipe; f it's hot enough, the solder will melt
and get pulled into the joint. Make sure to solder around the entire joint.

STEP 7

Apply the Solder

Always try to work from the lowest part of the joint to the highest. The high side will stay hot longer, so
you will have enough time to apply the solder. If the joint cools off too much, pass the flame of the torch back
and forth, being careful not to overheat the area. Wipe the joint before the solder cools. Shut off the flame on
the torch, and then give the pipe plenty of time to cool. Always test the joint by charging the line with water or
air before you close up the area.
STEP 8

Apply Cement
Once the primer has dried, apply a thick coat of cement around the pipe, and
then inside the fitting. Immediately put the fitting onto the pipe and make a
1/4 to 1/2 turn. This motion ensures that the cement will be evenly
distributed inside the joint. Hold the fitting in place for a few seconds to keep
the two pieces from pushing apart. There should be an even bead of cement
around the joint. Let it dry one to two hours. Note: Use cement specifically for
CPVC because it's designed to work with pressurized lines.

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LESSON 5 – THREADING GI STEEL PIPE

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lesson, the learners should have:
1. Identified the steps and procedures in threading a GI steel pipe.
2. Stated the correct procedure in threading GI steel pipe.

DISCUSSION

PIPE THREADING
When you’re making plumbing repairs or installing new plumbing, it may be necessary to add threading
to a damaged pipe or cut threads on the end of a new pipe. Purchase or rent a manual ratcheting pipe threader
and use it to thread piping yourself. If you are planning to do a lot of pipe threading or have a plumbing
business, there are also hand-held power threaders and threading machines that you could use. However, these
types of automatic threaders are very expensive and not practical for simple home use when an affordable
ratcheting pipe threader can get the job done just as well.
Part 1 of 2
Getting the Threads Started

Step 1. Secure the pipe firmly in a vise.

Loosen the jaws of the vise by turning the handle counterclockwise
just far enough to fit the pipe between them. Place the pipe in the vise so the end
you want to thread is sticking out, then turn the handle back clockwise to tighten it
and secure it in place.

 Note that you can use either a regular table vise or a pipe vise that is specially designed for holding
piping in place.
 This method uses a ratcheting pipe threader to cut threads into the end of a pipe. A ratcheting pipe
threader consists of a long ratcheting handle that holds a circular die head at one end, which is a ring
with several sets of teeth inside of it that cut the threads. When you ratchet the handle, the die head
spins onto the end of the pipe, cutting the threads as it goes on.
 If you don’t have all the equipment or don’t want to purchase or rent it, you can also have pipes
threaded for you at a home improvement center.

Step 2. Put on work gloves and safety glasses.

These will protect your hands and eyes from any metal slivers and
accidental cuts. It will also keep your hands clean as you lubricate the pipe and
pipe threader throughout the process.

 You can just wear 1 work glove if you prefer to leave 1 hand bare to grip
the handle of pipe threader better.

Step 3. Cut and ream the pipe if you need to make it a different length.
Use a pipe cutter or a hacksaw to cut the pipe to length. Insert a
reamer in the cut end of the pipe and rotate it around to remove sharp burrs and
smooth the end out.

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 A reamer is a cone-shaped manual rotary cutting tool that removes the rough edges of a cut
pipe as you rotate it around inside of the cut end.

Step 4. Choose a die head based on the pipe’s diameter.

Read the numbers on the different die heads for the ratcheting
pipe threader to see what sizes they are. Select a die head that is of the
appropriate size for the pipe you want to add threads to.

 A die head is the part of the pipe threader that actually cuts the threads. Ratcheting pipe threaders
typically come with die heads in a few different common diameters. The face of the die head has
numbers on it that indicate the size of pipe it is for. For example, if it says 1/2 on it, the die head is for
threading 1/2-inch piping.

Step 5. Attach the die head to a ratcheting pipe threader handle.

Remove any die head that is already in the handle by pulling it out.
Slide your selected die head into ring at the end of the handle until it snaps all the
way into place.
 The ratcheting handle is the handle you use to move it around
the end of the pipe to cut the threads in it.

Step 6. Lubricate the end of the pipe with threading oil. Apply a generous
squeeze or two of threading oil to the outside end of the pipe. This will lubricate it
so it’s easier to put the die head on as well as lubricate the teeth of the die head,
making it easier to cut the threads.
 Don’t worry about applying too much lubricant. You need a lot to get the
job done, so just squirt away until you have completely saturated the
outside end of the pipe that you are going to cut threads into.

Step 7. Place the die head onto the end of the pipe.
Slide the center hole of the die cutter onto the end of the pipe. Push it into place as
far as it will go.
 If it’s hard to get onto the pipe, you can squirt some more
threading oil onto the pipe and the middle of the die head to
make it easier.

Step 8. Ratchet the handle while applying pressure to the die head to start
cutting.
Push against the die head, towards the pipe, with 1 hand. Ratchet the pipe
threader’s handle clockwise with your other hand as far as you can go,
maintaining pressure on the die head as you do so to make the teeth start cutting
into the pipe.

 If you feel resistance as you do this, then you know the teeth are biting into the pipe and starting to cut
the threads. If you don’t feel any resistance, you probably need to push harder on the die head.

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Part 2 of 2
Cutting and Finishing the Threads

Step 1. Lubricate the exposed teeth of the die head. Squeeze more threading
oil onto all the teeth of the die head that are not yet cutting into the pipe. This is
important to make cutting easier and prevent wear and tear on the teeth.
 Don’t be shy about squirting on the threading oil. You can’t
use too much lubricant during this process.

Step 2. Keep ratcheting the handle until all the die head’s teeth have cut
into the pipe.
Turn the handle back counterclockwise about 3/4 of the way, then ratchet it
clockwise as far as you can go, using your bodyweight to help you turn it. Repeat
this until all the die head’s teeth are around the pipe, which means all the
threads have been cut.
If at any point you feel increased resistance while cutting, stop ratcheting and
apply more threading oil to the exposed teeth of the die head.

Step 3. Reverse the direction of the ratchet handle and ratchet it off the
threads.
Pull up the little black knob next to the die head and turn it to reverse the
direction of the ratchet handle. Ratchet it counterclockwise as far as it will go,
then turn it back clockwise about 3/4 of the way, and repeat until you have
unscrewed the teeth of the die head from the threads.
 When you have unscrewed the die head all the way, you can simply pull
it to slide it off the end of the pipe.

Step 4. Wrap Teflon tape clockwise around the threads at the end of the
pipe.
Seal the threads with 2-3 wraps of teflon tape before you attach any
connectors or fittings. This will ensure a tight, well-sealed connection.[
 You can also use a liquid pipe thread compound instead of
Teflon tape to create a strong seal.

Watch a YouTube video using this link. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=32pzriZO1xc

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LESSON 6 – WATER SUPPLY IN THE BUILDING

INTENDED LEARNING OUTCOMES

At the end of the lesson, the learners should have:
1. Identified the sources of water and the different plumbing materials for water system in the
building.
2. Discussed the type of materials used for the water supply.

DISCUSSION
Overview
Community water systems obtain water from two sources: surface water and ground water. People use
surface and ground water every day for a variety of purposes, including drinking, cooking, and basic hygiene, in
addition to recreational, agricultural, and industrial activities. According to the United States Environmental
Protection Agency (EPA), the majority of public water systems (91%) are supplied by ground water; however,
more persons (68%) are supplied year-round by community water systems that use surface water. This is
because large, well-populated metropolitan areas tend to rely on surface water supplies, whereas small, rural
areas tend to rely on ground water.

Surface Water
Surface water is water that collects on the ground or in a stream, river, lake, reservoir, or ocean. Surface
water is constantly replenished through precipitation, and lost through evaporation and seepage into ground
water supplies. According to the EPA, 68% of community water system users received their water from a
surface water source, such as a lake.

Ground Water
Ground water, which is obtained by drilling wells, is water located below the ground surface in pores
and spaces in the rock, and is used by approximately 78% of community water systems in the United States,
supplying drinking water to 32% of community water system users. EPA also estimates that approximately
15% of the U.S. population relies on private ground water wells.

Source Water Protection

Even though most community drinking water (especially from surface water sources) is treated before
entering the home, the cost of this treatment and the risks to public health can be reduced by protecting source
water from contamination. We all live in a watershed, which is an area that drains to a common waterway such

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as a stream, lake, wetland, or ocean. EPA and many other organizations collaborate with communities to work
toward protecting watersheds.

MATERIALS USED IN WATER SUPPLY PIPES

The pipes used to transport potable drinking water in a home plumbing system use different materials
than those used for the pipes carrying drain water. Your home may have a plumbing system that uses all one
type of material for the water supply pipes, but don't be surprised to find several types of pipes, especially in
older homes that have seen many repairs or updates.

Here are some common materials used for water supply pipes.

Galvanized Steel

Galvanized pipe is steel pipe that has been treated with a zinc coating. This galvanized coating keeps the
water from corroding the pipe. It was once the most common type of pipe for water supply lines, but because
labor and time that goes into cutting, threading, and installing galvanized pipe, it no longer used much, except
for limited use in repairs. However, galvanized pipe for water distribution is still seen in larger commercial
applications.

If you have a pre-1970s house, you could still have galvanized water lines in your house. Galvanized
piping has a functional life of 40 to 50 years, according to home inspection agencies. If your galvanized steel
plumbing system is approaching that age, an upgrade is probably advisable. If the pipes are still in good
condition, hardware stores carry a variety of fittings and can cut and thread galvanized pipes to match your
needs.

Copper

Copper pipe is mostly used for hot and cold water distribution, as well as being regularly used in HVAC
systems for refrigerant lines. Although once used in gas piping, this is no longer allowed in most jurisdictions.
Copper piping works in both underground and above-ground applications, but copper can be affected by some
soils and it should have a protective sleeve if used underground.

For many years, copper was the gold-standard for water supply pipes, as galvanized steel fell from favor.
Copper plumbing pipes can last for up to 50 years, but as it ages, copper thins out, eventually leading to pinhole
leaks. More recently, various forms of plastic have replaced copper as the favorite, though copper pipes and
fittings are still widely available. Due to the price of copper and longer labor needed to install, many builders
have switched to alternative water distribution piping, especially PEX.

Copper comes in different thicknesses which are labeled M, L, and K. M is the thinnest grade of copper.
Copper can be connected in different ways, including compression fittings, push-fit fittings, or sweat-soldering.

PVC

PVC is an acronym that stands for polyvinyl chloride. Of the different types of plastic pipe used for water
supply, PVC has a wide variety of plumbing uses, from drainage pipe to water mains. It is most commonly used
for irrigation piping, home, and building supply piping. PVC is also very common in pool and spa systems. PVC
pipe is often white but it can also come in other colors. You can often tell what it is used for by the colors and
marks on the pipe. For example, purple pipe with black lettering is used for reclaimed water. PVC also comes in
a variety of thicknesses, called schedules. Schedules 40 is the most common for pipes used in water distribution.

Historically, PVC was one of the first forms of plastic used instead of copper for water supply pipes. PVC
is normally used for cold water pipes only, as heat can eventually break down the plastic. Always check with
local code restrictions before using PVC pipes for hot water delivery lines. In homes plumbed with first-
generation plastics, the cold water lines are often PVC, with CPVC used for hot water lines.

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PVC connections are made by using a primer that softens the PVC and then applying PVC glue that melts
the joints and pipe together. PVC pipe should always be clearly labeled if it is used for both potable (drinkable)
and non-potable water in the same building.

CPVC

The acronym CPVC stands for chlorinated polyvinyl chloride. It is often (but not always) a cream-colored
or off-white plastic. This type of pipe can stand temperatures up to about 180 degrees Fahrenheit or so (this
depends on the schedule), so it can be used for both hot and cold water lines. CPVC is the same outside
diameter as copper and PEX, so the same push-fit fittings used for PEX and copper, such as SharkBite, will also
fit the CPVC piping.

As with PVC, you should use primer and glue when making a CPVC joint. Also, make sure the glue
specifies that is can be used on CPVC.

PEX

PEX stands for cross-linked polyethylene. It is sometimes known as XLPEl. With good resistance to both
hot and cold temperatures, PEX is commonly used for both hot and cold water lines in homes, and for hydronic
heating systems (such as radiant under-floor systems).

PEX is considered more durable than copper, with a likely lifespan of more than 50 years. For
professional plumbers, PEX tubing has now largely replaced copper and other plastics used for water supply
pipes. They prefer PEX because of its low cost, and because it comes in long rolls of tubing that are easy to
transport. Because the flexible tubing can be bent around corners, fewer elbows and other fittings are required,
speeding up installation.

PEX can be joined in many different ways, including push-fit fittings and crimp rings secured with
specialty PEX tools.

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