Organic Cold Sugaring Handbook

By Jessica “Jessa” Roberts

www.jessaskincare.com
www.sugaringprofessional.com
415-272-3398 hotline
(Version 3, Published July 2015)
INTRODUCTION
Jessa created SugarLoveTM an Organic Professional Cold Sugaring Paste, with a passion for hair
removal and being earth friendly. Sugaring is the oldest, most natural, form of hair removal, an
art passed down for centuries. SugarLoveTM was designed to mimic the original form of
sugaring with no warmers. After studying family recipes, and sugaring paste origins we believe
cold paste is the formula used thousands of years ago.
It’s also a “two-fer”, what does that mean? It can be used two ways, cold as your sugar paste,
or warmed as a very low temperature strip wax (heat to 95 degrees).

We have built a network of highly skilled trainers to help us educate you. We provide regular
classes, one-on-one, live skype training and free monthly videos. To continue your interactive
learning experience also join our groups on Facebook, find Jessa Esthetician and your trainer to
become friends now.

Learning how to sugar can take up to three months, expect the same amount of time and
practice you spent learning waxing. If you are a natural at sugaring we have had estheticians
start as early as right after their certification.

HISTORY

Sugaring hair removal dates back to 1900 BC, it is speculated that the first sugaring compound
was made from honey. Sugaring was also called “Sukkar” in the Middle East and Egypt; as
“Agda” or “Harem” in Turkey and “Moum” in Iran.

Mesopotamian royalty required their women to be kept hair free using sugar. Egyptian hier
oglyphics describe girls serving the Pharaoh were expected to remove their hair. Hair was
considered low class and to be amongst the upper class you had to be hairless! In the Turkish
Empire it was an important part of court life to remove body hair which was also considered an
art! This tradition has been handed down through generations in the Middle East. Today
Middle Eastern women cook up then practice cold and strip sugaring, they get together and
also have hair removal parties.

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TYPES OF SUGAR

SugarLoveTM uses Organic sugar, 100% certified organic sugar, 100% certified organic lemon
juice and water. The molasses is found in organic sugar naturally, which is listed in our
ingredients, and creates the dark color and sweet cookie smell which fills the room while you
are sugaring. The color also hides the hair collecting in the paste.

Conventional sugar or non-organic sugar, goes through a toxic chemical process which removes
the molasses, leaving traces of irritants behind, causing itching and reactions. If the company
does not use pure cane sugar, it is GMO sugar adding more toxic pesticides. All conventional
pastes have no scent because they do not contain molasses. Most conventional warm sugars do
not use real lemon juice they use citric acid which is a cheaper alternate used in soda.

WARM VS COLD

Cold sugar has amazing benefits compared to its cousin warm sugar. After doing a comparison
of cold and warm Jessa decided cold paste eliminates all of her complaints about sugaring, she
spent 6yrs using warm paste before the switch. It was a miracle when she realized cold sugaring
made sugaring so much better!

Cold sugar is superior, 1 mold per area cutting service time in half, 2 molds on stubborn or
previously shaved hair (vs warm needs 3 molds), cold starts stiff making it easy to hold and hard
to get stuck, then it stays the perfect consistency the whole service picking up hair beautifully
without adjustments (vs warm which starts too soft making it hard to hold and easy to get
stuck, halfway through the service your sugar stiffens, causing you to need an adjustment
discarding ½ your ball), cold gets you unstuck with ease using fresh paste gets you unstuck fast
(vs warm you cannot use fresh paste to get unstuck), cold say goodbye to costly warmers and
long heating times (vs warm always needs warmer).

Warm vs Cold Comparison Chart COLD WARM

1. MOLDING YOUR SUGAR 1 time 3 times

2. SUGAR ADJUSTMENTS none replace ½ your ball every service
3. THUMB TWIRLING almost none constantly twirling thumb cramps
4. COLOR dark color hides the hair light color hair shows
5. ORGANIC 100% organic, lemon juice not organic, citric acid, GMO
6. HEATING no heat, mobile heated warmer cost $90-$150
7. GETTING UNSTUCK more options less options
8. STAYS PLIABLE yes the entire service stiffens up quickly
9. SPEED SUGARING vary fast beats waxing takes longer than waxing
10. NEW SUGARISTS easy to hold and use hard to use

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WHY TO LOVE SUGARING!

 Organic Ingredients, no animal testing, hypo-allergenic, non-gmo, you can eat it! Made
with food grade organic sugar, molasses, lemon juice and filtered water.
 Low Temperature, you can apply the paste cold or at room temperature, making it very
safe for the entire body. You can also heat the paste in a sugar warmer, to 95 degrees
lukewarm, and it becomes a strip wax! No matter how you use it, you never have to
worry about burning the skin. Traditional strip wax made is made with plastic, resin and
must be heated to 105 degrees or more. This can cause swelling which makes hair
removal more challenging. It can also cause a breakdown in connective tissue.
 Easy Clean Up, just use water to wipe down equipment, floors, and your clients will
never go home sticky again.
 Will Not Adhere to Live Skin Cells, sugar is water soluble, sugar only sticks to hair and
dead skin cells.
 Affordable, sugar can be used over and over on different body parts when used as a
paste. Use less supplies no more stick or strips! As strip wax you never need more than a
few strips for large body parts.
 Always the Perfect Consistency, sugar will not dry out or get too cool while you are
working with it. You can work over an entire area without ever having to think about
the consistency changing. Waxes usually must be removed quickly or they do not
perform properly.
 Will Not Break as Many Hairs, paste wraps around the hair shaft, seeps into the follicle,
and lubricates the hair, making removal a breeze! Hair is removed in it’s natural
direction during the paste method. Wax does not keep the hair lubricated, the stiffening
of the wax combined with the direction of removal, adds to hair breakage.
 More Sanitary, sugar is hypo-allergenic and non-comedogenic. Since sugar has a high
concentration of sugar bacteria cannot breed.
 Get Shorter Hair, paste sugaring can grab hairs that are a 1/16th of an inch, four to seven
days of hair growth. After shaving paste sugaring can be performed 3-4 days later.
Waxing you need ¼ inch hair length and 3-4 weeks of growth.
 Kill the Follicles Faster, after removing the hair from the follicle a number of times in
the earliest anagen phase of growth, it begins to deplete the growth. Achieve
permanent results in a fraction of the time!

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MYTHS ABOUT SUGARING

 Its Unsanitary, sugaring is very sanitary, bacteria do not and cannot breed in high
concentrations of sugar. A natural preservative, sugar dressings help prevent infection.
When you sugar you will use the same piece of sugar over and over. Follow these rules,
do not share sugar from the bikini or underarms with areas. Use fresh paste on the face
or bikini area. NEVER double dip with a contaminated glove, use fresh gloves for
grabbing out of the jar. Or a stick if you need to adjust your paste.
 Sugar is Messy! Yes and No. Your glove will always feel sticky, you will also occasionally
fling pieces of sugar across the room with your flick. Practice and patience will help you
learn to control your paste. If you get into trouble sugar can always be removed with a
stick, new glove, fresh paste, hot towel or waxing strip.
 Sugar gets into the Blood Stream, False, unless sugar is ingested it does not enter the
blood stream. It is safe for diabetics to sugar while waxing is not.
 It Hurts More, If you are an experienced sugarer you will not create any pull on the hair
when you are molding. Ask your client to tell you to slow your mold if they feel any
pulling. You will also learn how to get unstuck without any irritation and how to avoid
over working the skin. With sugar the skin is left less irritated than traditional wax which
contains heat and plastic.
 It takes longer than Waxing, No way! Speed sugaring makes it just as fast as traditional
waxing. You eliminate the need to go back and forth to your wax and dip with sticks. If
the hair is super short or not exfoliated your timing will go up with either wax or sugar.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Q: Can I use my own powder?

A: No. Corn Starch and other at home options can cause the sugar to misbehave. Powder Me
Love is formulated with a special blend of hypo-allergenic natural food based powders. We do
not use corn starch in our mixture because of allergies and turning the sugar into a gooey mess!

Q: How do you extract really short or thick stubborn facial hair?

A: Mold the sugar twice, then allow it to sit and soak into the follicles for a few minutes.

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Q: Will sugaring make my hands wrist or arms tired?
A: Make sure you use proper ergonomics, keep the wrist straight when you are molding, don’t
tilt your head to the side hunched over to mold. Do some exercises to strengthen your hands,
wrists and arms. Try not to book back to back large areas book smaller services in-between.
Make sure your paste is the right consistency. New practitioners tend to feel confident with a
firmer paste, we highly recommend practicing with a softer paste right away. If you are using a
lot of pressure to mold your paste, it is too firm.

Q: I can’t get unstuck my paste always gets too gooey, am I just not a good candidate to
perform cold sugaring?
A: No don’t give up! Sugaring is an art, it takes practice to master. Everyone goes through a
process learning the ins and outs of how to get the paste to work for you. There are many
things to think about: room temperatures, hand temperature, body temperature, sweat, when
to powder more, humidity, dry skin, lotions, proper prep, glove size, over working the sugar
with your thumb, ball size, over molding, flick. All of these things have to be learned before you
can assess if sugaring works for you or not. One of the most important tools to learn is how to
get “unstuck”.

THE ESSENTIALS
1. Antiseptic Cleansing – using the anti-oxidant blemish toner cleanse the skin thoroughly,
spray a light mist over the skin then wipe with a dry or slightly moist 4x4. Witch hazel
has an astringent property reducing sweat, bacteria and dirt. Make sure your client is
scrubbing and is not wearing any lotions or oils, this will block the sugar causing patchy
removal.
2. Powdering Stay Dry – use powder specifically formulated for our sugar, it’s all natural
containing three food grade starches free of allergens like corn starch. Or toxins like
aluminum. Make sure the skin is dry and powdered at all times, if you sugar off the
powder or have a sweater make sure you are drying the skin with a 4x4 and re-
powdering throughout the service.
3. Wearing Gloves – gloves should be worn at all times, for your protection as well as your
clients against diseases, viruses, cold sores, warts, ringworm and HIV. Latex is a
common allergy we highly recommend nitrile. Make sure your gloves are very tight so
they do not tear or slip off of the fingers.
4. Paste Types – we have two formulas, Original for everyone in any environment the best
sugar to heat into a strip wax as well, Firm for hot humid rooms, hot sweaty bodies, and

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 overheated hands. The firm can be used sparingly and be mixed with the Original when
it gets too soft.
5. Post Treatment – we recommend wiping with the Cucumber + Aloe Toner or Anti-
Oxidant Blemish Toner mixed with distilled water on a 4x4, or for large areas you can
use a hot towel. Salves, you need to apply a salve after each treatment to help the skin
recover and not become infected with bacteria. Our top choices are Squalane,
Ozonated Olive Oil and Coconut + Oxygen Balm. We use an application of Coconut +
Oxygen Balm after every single hair removal service. For faces we use squalane or
ozonated olive oil. If the face is acne prone tone only.
6. Homecare – we highly recommend to all of our clients that they take good care of their
skin after their treatment. Clients are often given our Coconut + Oxygen Balm which can
be used right away or Ingrown Smooth Balm which is more acid based can be used
48hrs after the treatment. We treat ingrown in phases, first treatment we will give a
balm, second treatment we add a mud mask after the service, third treatment we will
add a scrub, fourth treatment we will add cold salt soaks. So by the fourth treatment if
they aren’t clearing they will be using Balm + Mud Mask + Scrub + Salt Soaks. You can
assure your clients that you have the tools to up the ante if they aren’t clearing.

ADJUSTING PASTE AND HOW TO LOVE IT!

Color Variation, the color of our sugar may vary from a light to dark molasses color. This variation
does not affect the texture or effectiveness. Be sure to store your sugar properly
crystallization of the sugar may result from overheating and or moisture loss. Adjust
the warmer temperature gauge to suit the volume of product in the container. Keep
the lid on the jar at all times to prevent moisture loss. Always store unused containers
of sugar, in cool dry area. Frequent microwaving or refrigeration could lead to moisture
loss or crystallization.

The Perfect Texture, when your sugar becomes soft and pliable, with very little pressure
needed to mold the sugar, fewer molds 1-2, faster molds and the sugar will grip the hair
better regardless of the length or density.

Stiffening the Sugar, throw away 75% of your sugar ball, add the same amount of sugar you
discarded. Double glove your hands if you run hot. Get a little bit of firm paste. Use firm
paste only. Use a fan or air conditioning in your room ideal room temperature would be 65-
74 degrees with low humidity.

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Too Soft or Goo Out! the sugar gets too soft, sticky, gooey, it can become unmanageable and
get stuck over and over again.
Too Stiff or Firm, mold slow when you begin with a fresh ball of paste. You can pull on the hair
when you start with a cold ball of paste unless you start by molding slow. You can dip your ball
in a heated tub to soften the paste before you begin.
Mastering the art of Body Sugaring, to become a “natural” at sugaring you will need to become
very familiar with the variables that can affect the texture of your sugar. You have to be
determined to be an expert, over time you will learn to see all the variables and know what to
do instantly!
PREVENTING MELT DOWNS + GOO-OUTS
 Outdoor Temperature – changing seasons? your sugar may be a different texture. If it is
too cold your sugar will become too stiff, if your room is too warm it will be too gooey.
 Indoor Temperature – a room that does not have good air conditioning, circulation and
has too much heat blowing in may cause sugar goo outs.
 Clients Body Temperature – a client who comes into their service right after working out
sweat and heat are not your friend with sugar. Their body temperature might be
warmer than the average person which may cause your sugar to become too soft. The
same is true about your hand temperature.
 Dry Skin, Not Exfoliated, Dense Hair – a client with noticeably dry skin or thick dense
hair will help to stiffen your paste.
BALL SIZE CHART

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ALL ABOUT HAIR!
Hair is made up of keratinized cells (dead protein call keratin). It contains three layers the
cuticle, cortex and medulla.
 CUTICLE – the outer layer of overlapping transparent keratin scales.
 CORTEX – the middle layer long keratinized cells, that contain melanin that gives the
hair color. The absence of melanin produces blonde or grey hair.
 MEDULLA – the center is made of large loosely connected keratinized cells with air in-
between. The spaces create shine.
STAGES OF HAIR GROWTH
Early Anagen, the best time to remove the hair to lead to permanency. Right when the hair
pops through the surface it is in it’s earliest anagen phase. This is the ideal time to remove the
hair. We instruct our sugaring clients to come every 3 weeks or less until their growth thins out
significantly (usually at one year). They can then come every 4-8 weeks. Hair length 1/16th of an
inch or less.
Anagen, the active growth phase which can last for months or years. The anagen stage is the
most favorable time to extract the hair because it is still connected to the dermal papilla.
Extraction at this stage cuts off the blood supply collapsing the follicle. Hair length 1/16th – just
under 1/4th inch.
Catagen, this is the transitional phase, the dermal papilla become inactive and hair stops
growing. Hair length 1/4th – just under 1/2 inch.
Telogen, the resting state, the hair is dormant until it is shed or extracted. This is the least
desirable time to remove hair because the hair is shedding naturally therefore you will not be
cutting off the hair from the blood supply and shutting down the follicle. Hair length 1/2.
Mesanagen, sometimes the hair will revert back to anagen and produce a new hair before the
old one falls out. So there could be up to three hairs growing in one follicle. Over active
hormones can stimulate growth.

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TYPES OF HAIR
1. Lanugo Hair – the peach fuzz, found on a newborn baby, this hair is shed before or right
after birth.
2. Vellus Hair – super fine, peach fuzz found on the face and other areas of the body. They
are very pale in color, growing slowly and very shallow in the follicle.
3. Terminal Hair – thick, deep-rooted, well developed roots and bulbs. Found on men’s and
woman’s scalp, eyebrows, eyelashes, underarms, genital area, faces with hormonal
imbalances in women.
4. Intermediate Hair – found all over the body and face. The texture is between vellus and
terminal.
HAIR GROWING TOO FAST
Body Chemistry Change, if a client complains that their hair is growing back thicker and faster,
ask questions: have they started smoking, started a prescription, been stressed, in more rare
cases: tumors, radiation, scarring, genetics. All of these things can cause hormonal changes
which will effect hair growth.
Stress, stress increase the hormone load on the body, increasing androgens (male hormones)
causes excess hair growth.
Medication, prescriptions can cause increased hair growth all over the body. This may subside
after you discontinue the medication.
Smoking, can cause an increase in adrenaline as high as 70% above normal. This causes an
increase in hair growth.
Pregnancy, hormones change drastically while you are pregnant which can cause increased hair
growth.
Surgery or Hormone Replacement, if hormones have been prescribed as a result of
menopause, hysterectomy, thyroid, and more it can cause an increase in hair growth.
Warm / Hot Climate, continuous exposure to heat causes rapid hair growth because of an
increase in blood flow.
Hereditary Factors, built into your genetic make-up you may be setup to grow more or less
hair, most hair growth rates are predetermined at birth.

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SANITATION
o Use Cavacide on all of your bottles and equipment in-between services.
o Wear gloves at all times.
o Use disposable equipment where ever possible.
o Use a fresh linen for every client.
o Use bottles, jars with pumps or remove product with a clean wood stick.
o Wash hands for every client.
o Cover any cuts or open wounds on your hands.

CONTRAINDICATIONS
 Enlarged Varicose Veins: touch to see if they feel overly warm, ask the client if they are
painful or uncomfortable.
 Phlebitis: Inflammation of the veins.
 New Scars
 Sun Burns
 Warts: should be avoided to prevent spreading.
 Network Boards: the male beard may have a network rooting system (roots are
intertwined beneath the skin), this can cause tearing of the follicle, some men are not
networked but there is no way of telling unless you do a patch test.
 Skin Tags: growths found in areas such as necks, groins, underarms, they may tear and
bleed if sugared over.
 Raised Moles: always air on the side of caution when working with moles.
 Retin-A, Fruit Acids, Vitamin C, and Exfoliants these treatments loosen your cellular glue
allowing skin cells to shed. A client using exfoliants may be treated if they have used the
product 4-5 weeks where the initial shedding has passed. Always do a patch test first,
when clients begin actively shedding do not sugar them.
 Accutane – if a client is using this DO NOT sugar them.
 Microdermabrasion – wait at least a week after the treatment.

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DO NOT SUGAR:
- Started Retin A, Fruit Acids, Vitamin C or other Exfoliants.
- Recently underwent a peel, microderm or laser treatment.
- Is using Accutane.
- Had recent sun exposure.
- Warts, Wounds, Hot Veins, Severe Bruises
PREVENT INGROWN HAIR

The molding technique combined with lemon juice and body heat allows the sugar to seep into
the hair follicle while wrapping around the hair shaft. Fully lubricating the hair, and removing it
in the natural direction of growth results in a much more gentle treatment.

HOW TO USE YOUR SUGAR

Grab the correct ball size, apply to the skin in the opposite direction of hair growth. If your
paste begins too stiff and the hair is long apply a few pulls in the same direction of growth to
heat up the sugar.

Keep all the paste on the client’s skin, and your fingertips. Make sure your paste is on the inside
of your hand not the back of your hand. If some of your sugar flips onto the back of your hand,
use a hair free area of the body to swipe the sugar onto then attach it back into your ball.

Make sure your hand positions are correct, straight wrist, bent top joint of the fingers.

With cold sugar you want to start out molding twice, progress to molding once to twice as the
paste warms up. Lighten your application pressure as the paste warms up.

Tilt your wrist back slightly, pull the skin taught behind the sugar and always flick parallel to the
skin. If you do not mold in the exact opposite direction of growth or you flick straight up it can
cause hair breakage.

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SUGARING SERVICE TIMING + PRACTICE

Perform 3-5 practice sessions with models on the areas below before you begin charging
clients, if you feel confident enough after class you can charge ½ price. Make sure your speed is
close to the times listed below before you begin on clients. Times will improve after you
become seasoned, you can expect a 5-15min reduction on what is listed, give yourself 3-8
months to get there. Pretty soon you will be speed sugaring!

Brazilian (30mins) 1 2 3 4 5

Bikini (20mins) 1 2 3

Eyebrow + Lip (25mins) 1 2 3 4 5

Full Face (40mins)

Full Legs (45mins) 1 2 3

Half Leg (30mins) 1 2 3

Full Arms (25mins) 1 2 3

Half Arm (20mins) 1 2 3

Underarms (15mins) 1 2 3

Full Back (30mins) 1 2 3

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