BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

Excellence Through Education

Industrial Training Report On

“Interstoff Apparels Ltd.”

Submitted By:

Sazzad Hosen Murad

ID: 192-084-801

This internship report submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the Degree of
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering in the Faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE) of BGMEA
University of Fashion & Technology (BUFT).

Department of Textile Engineering,

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
October, 2023
 Industrial Training Report On
“Interstoff Apparels Ltd.”

Submitted By:
Sazzad Hosen Murad
ID: 192-084-801
Submitted To:
Department of Textile Engineering
In partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Bachelor of Science in
Textile Engineering.

Supervised by:
Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique
Professor & Dean, Faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE)
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology

Department of Textile Engineering,

BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
October, 2023
Nishatnagar, Turag, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh
Letter of Transmittal

ii
October, 2023
Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique
Professor & Dean,
Faculty of Textile Engineering (FTE),
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Nishatnagar, Turag, Dhaka

Subject: Submission of the “Industrial Training Report”

Dear Sir,
I’m extremely indebted for your tremendous support and guidance throughout my long
journey at " Interstoff Apparels Ltd." & internship period. Being working with you, I have
earned valuable knowledge and were inspired by your inventiveness, which helped to enrich
my experience to a greater extent. An internship report on “Interstoff Apparels Ltd.” is
submitted to you for the partial fulfilment of the Bachelor of Science in Textile Engineering
Degree.

During my internship period, I have trained in all departments of “Interstoff Apparels Ltd”.
I made sincere efforts to study related materials, observe operations performed in Factory
Production from Cutting to Finishing, which are the sources of collected data to prepare the
present report on Fabric Manufacturing Engineering.

I have to make this report as comprehensive as possible within the time limit. But there may
be some mistakes due to various limitations. For this reason, I beg your sympathetic
consideration. Finally, I pray for your blessing for our successful engineering career.

Thank you
Yours Faithfully

Sazzad Hosen Murad

ID: 192-084-801

iii
 Declaration of Examiners

The internship report on “Interstoff Apparels Ltd.” is submitted by Sazzad Hosen Murad,
ID:192-084-801.The report is accepted as satisfactory in partial fulfillment of the
requirement for the degree of B.Sc. in Textile Engineering.

Board of Examiners

Name Signature

1. Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique

Professor & Dean,
Faculty of Textile Engineering, BUFT

2. Examiner 1: Mohammad Mamunur Rashid

Assistant Professor,
Faculty of Textile Engineering, BUFT

3. Examiner 2: Dr. Shahin Hossain

Department Head,
Faculty of Environmental Science, BUFT

iv
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

At first, I would like to thank Almighty Allah for giving me the strength and ability to complete
the industrial training and write this report. Several people have made significant contributions
to completing my training successfully. Their advice and suggestions helped us a lot.

Firstly, I would like to thank Md. Shakirul Anam (Sohan), Divisional Deputy Manager,
Marketing & Merchandising, Md. Hasibur Rahman Hasib, Divisional Merchandiser,
Marketing & Merchandising, “Interstoff Apparels Ltd”. & the whole management of
“Interstoff Apparels Ltd” for helping me a lot in gathering different information, collecting
data and guiding me from time to time in making this internship report, despite of their busy
schedules, they gave me different ideas in making this report unique. I have not only earned
valuable knowledge but also inspired by their innovativeness, which helped me to enrich our
experience to a greater extent.

Special thanks go to our enthusiastic supervisor Professor Dr. Engr. Abu Bakr Siddique,
Dean, Faculty of Textile Engineering, BUFT, who has been an amazing experience and we
thank him wholeheartedly, not only for his tremendous academic support, but also giving us so
many opportunities.

Also thanks goes to honorable Associate Professor Dr. Ranajit Kumar Nag, Head of the
Department, Faculty of Textile Engineering, BUFT, who has been an amazing experience
and I thank for his tremendous academic support.

Finally I am very much thankful to Professor Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan, Pro-Vice
Chancellor, BUFT & Professor Dr. S.M Mahfuzur Rahman, Vice Chancellor, BUFT for
their encouragement and valuable steps taken for ensuring the best environment to pursue my
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering Degree.

Finally, I want to give thanks for all the workers, supervisors who have assisted, helped and
inspired me to complete this report.
.

v
 Executive Summary

This report presents a conception of Textile sector especially of a knit composite industry and
tries to clarify the overall processes required to complete a garment. Three months long training
is not enough to capture all the information related to but it is possible to overview of all the
departments. It is “Interstoff Apparels Ltd.” in where I tried to gather information about all
the departments. The factory has a nice system for the internship students that are the training
schedule provided by the authority. There are several departments in Interstoff Apparels Ltd.
among them knitting, dyeing, printing and garments are the major ones. There are also other
departments those act as supporting of them. It describes about the activities of each
departments and the relation among the departments. Training schedule is prepared in such a
way that helps a learner to know that to produce a garment which department works first and
correspondingly which works at last. This paper includes from where order is received and to
where it is supplied and how a large scale of products is produced within a very short period of
time. Different types of order are running on the same time on a same floor with different types
of garments from several buyers. But there is no miss match of any product except some cases
which are removed by inspection. This paper concludes by identifying some important
information about different department that help the factory to grow up quickly with large
amount of profit with environment friendly technologies. This report may be a guideline for
other small industries to become large in size and for students or other people to learn a little
about a knit composite industry without visiting. I have started my 3 months internship in here
at 3rd June and have successfully completed in 1st September, 2023.

vi
 Table of Content
Letter of Transmittal.………………………………………………………………………... iii
Declaration of Examiners …………………………………………………………………… iv
Acknowledgement …………………………………………………………........................... v
Table of Content ……………………………………………………………………………... 1
List of Figure..............................................................................................................................6
List of Tables..............................................................................................................................7
Chapter-01: Introduction.........................................................................................................8
1.1 Introduction..........................................................................................................................9
1.2 Objectives.............................................................................................................................9
Chapter-02: Introduction of Factory....................................................................................10
2.1 Introduction of Factory.......................................................................................................11
2.2 Factory Location.................................................................................................................12
2.3 Factory Profile....................................................................................................................13
2.4 History of Interstoff of Industries.......................................................................................13
2.5 Mission:..............................................................................................................................13
2.6 Achievements:....................................................................................................................14
2.7 Product & Services.............................................................................................................15
2.7.1 Fabrics.............................................................................................................................15
2.7.2 Ready-made Garments:...................................................................................................15
2.8 Major Buyers......................................................................................................................16
Chapter-03: Organizational Structure.................................................................................17
3.1 Organogram of the factory.................................................................................................18
3.1.1 Organogram of Administration:......................................................................................18
3.2 Production Manager Organogram of Operation:................................................................19
Chapter-04: Raw Materials Used in Intersoff Apparels Ltd..............................................20
4.1 Raw Materials Used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd..................................................................21
4.2 Garments of Interstoff Apparels Ltd...................................................................................21
Chapter-05: List of Machineries...........................................................................................22
5.1 Types of cutting machine used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd. (IAL):.....................................23
5.2 Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Section:..................................................................25
5.3 Pattern Making...................................................................................................................26
5.4 Steps of Garment Pattern Making......................................................................................26

1
5.4.1 Block pattern:..................................................................................................................26
5.4.2 Working pattern:..............................................................................................................26
5.5 Grading...............................................................................................................................27
5.6 Two methods of Grading....................................................................................................27
5.6.1 Manual Grading...............................................................................................................27
5.6.2 Computer Aided Grading................................................................................................27
5.7 Marker making...................................................................................................................28
5.8 Objects of marker making..................................................................................................28
5.9 Types of marker making.....................................................................................................29
5.9.1 Manual Method of Marker:.............................................................................................29
5.9.2 Computerized Method:....................................................................................................29
5.10 Factors considered during marker making.......................................................................29
5.11 The factors which influence the marker efficiency..........................................................30
5.12 Relation among Types of Fabrics Lay Height, Lay Quantity and Fabric Weight:...........30
5.13 Types of Fabric & Their Relaxation Time.......................................................................30
5.14 Fabric Spreading...............................................................................................................31
5.15 Types of Fabric Spreading...............................................................................................32
5.16 Requirements of fabric spreading.....................................................................................32
5.17 Sewing Section.................................................................................................................34
5.18 Elements of Sewing..........................................................................................................34
5.19 Process flow chart of sewing section................................................................................35
5.20 Different types of Sewing Machine used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd...............................36
5.21 All Types of Stitch...........................................................................................................39
5.22 Sewing line quality check list:..........................................................................................39
5.23 Sewing quality checking points........................................................................................39
5.24 Sewing table quality check list.........................................................................................40
5.25 Sewing problems in a factory...........................................................................................41

2
Chapter-06: Sample Section..................................................................................................43
6.1 Introduction........................................................................................................................44
6.2 Process Flow Chart of Sample Section:.............................................................................44
6.3 Following steps are follow here.........................................................................................47
6.4 Types of Sample:................................................................................................................48
6.4.1 Proto Sample or 1st Sample............................................................................................48
6.4.2 Fit Sample........................................................................................................................48
6.4.3 Size Set Sample...............................................................................................................48
6.4.4 Photo Shoot Sample........................................................................................................48
6.4.5 Preproduction Sample (PP Sample):...............................................................................48
6.4.6 Development Sample:.....................................................................................................49
6.4.7 Production Sample...........................................................................................................49
6.4.8 Counter Sample...............................................................................................................49
6.4.9 Shipment Sample.............................................................................................................49
Chapter-07: Merchandising Section.....................................................................................50
7.1 Merchandising....................................................................................................................51
7.2 Merchandising working process follows mainly three ways:...........................................51
7.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section..............................................................................52
7.4 Process Flow Chart of Apparel or Garments Merchandising.............................................52
7.5 All the processes of garments merchandising are now discussed:.....................................54
7.6 Responsibilities of merchandiser........................................................................................55
7.7 Merchandising Related Terms............................................................................................56
Chapter-08: Production Planning & Sequence & Operation.............................................59
8.1 Knitting Unit......................................................................................................................60
8.1.1 Process flow chart of Knitting.........................................................................................60
8.1.2 Types of Fabric Manufactured in Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Group...................................60
8.1.3 Knitting Faults.................................................................................................................61
8.1.4 Production Flow Chart....................................................................................................61
8.2 Dyeing & Finishing Unit....................................................................................................62
8.2.1 Dyeing Lab Section.........................................................................................................62

3
8.2.2 Objectives of Lab Dip.....................................................................................................62
8.2.3 Purpose of Laboratory.....................................................................................................62
8.2.4 Machineries in Dyeing Laboratory..................................................................................63
8.2.5 Test Name........................................................................................................................63
8.2.6 Flow Chart for Dyeing...................................................................................................64
8.2.7 Raw materials used in the dyeing section are..................................................................64

8.2.8 Common Dyeing Faults with Their Remedies................................................................65

8.2.9 Finishing..........................................................................................................................65
8.2.10 Objective of Finishing...................................................................................................65
8.2.11 Types of Finishing.........................................................................................................66
8.2.12 Finishing Effects............................................................................................................66
8.2.13 Name of Machineries in Finishing................................................................................66
8.2.14 Flowchart of Finishing..................................................................................................67
Chapter-09: Quality Assurance.............................................................................................68
9.1 Quality Assurance..............................................................................................................69
9.2 Quality Assurance Procedure.............................................................................................69
9.2.1 Cutting.............................................................................................................................69
9.3 Sewing & Finishing............................................................................................................69
9.4 Offline inspection:..............................................................................................................71
Chapter-10: Maintenance of Machinery..............................................................................72
10.1 Maintenance of Machinery...............................................................................................73
10.2 Breakdown Maintenance..................................................................................................73
10.3 Routine maintenance........................................................................................................73
10.4 Maintenance in utility department....................................................................................74
10.5 Remarks............................................................................................................................74
Chapter-11: Utility Service....................................................................................................75
11.1 Utility facilities available.................................................................................................76
11.2 The Major Utilities are.....................................................................................................76
11.3 Sources of utilities:...........................................................................................................76
11.4 Capacity and other technical details: power (electricity):................................................77

4
11.5 Specification of generator:................................................................................................77
11.6 Compressed Air................................................................................................................77
11.7 Water................................................................................................................................77
11.8 Gas:...................................................................................................................................78
11.9 Source of utility................................................................................................................79
11.10 Cost of different utilities.................................................................................................79
Chapter-12: Inventory Management....................................................................................80

12.1 Inventory system of raw material:....................................................................................81

12.2 Inventory Control.............................................................................................................81
12.3 Frequency of inventory Update........................................................................................81
12.4 Raw materials of Inventory Control.................................................................................82
12.5 Type of Inventory Carried in This Mill............................................................................82
12.6 Inventory System for Raw Materials................................................................................82
12.7 Stages of Inventory Control.............................................................................................82
12.8 Different Store Section of Interstoff Apparels Ltd...........................................................83
Chapter-13: Effluent Treatment Plant.................................................................................85
13.1 Effluent Treatment............................................................................................................86
13.2 Maintenance of the ETP:..................................................................................................87
13.3 Sludge Treatment and Handling......................................................................................87
Chapter-14: Conclusion & Recommendation......................................................................90
14.1 Conclusion........................................................................................................................91
14.2 Recommendation………………………………………………..…………………...….91

5
 List of Figure
Fig. 2.1 Industrial Building......................................................................................................11
Fig. 2.2 Factory Location.........................................................................................................12
Fig. 2.3 Major Buyers...............................................................................................................16
Fig. 3.1 Organogram of Administration...................................................................................18
Fig. 3.2 Production Manager Organogram of Operation..........................................................19
Fig. 4.1 Garments.....................................................................................................................21
Fig. 5.1 Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Section.........................................................................25
Fig. 5.4 Pattern.........................................................................................................................26
Fig. 5.5 Grading........................................................................................................................28
Fig. 5.6 Marker Making...........................................................................................................28
Fig. 5.7 Fabric Spreading.........................................................................................................31
Fig. 5.8 Fabric Cutting.............................................................................................................33
Fig. 5.9 Sorting & Bundling.....................................................................................................33
Fig. 5.10 Sorting & Bundling...................................................................................................33
Fig. 5.11 Flow chart of sewing section....................................................................................35
Fig. 5.12 Quality Check in Sewing Section.............................................................................40
Fig. 6.1 Layout of Sample Section...........................................................................................44
Fig. 6.2 CAD............................................................................................................................45
Fig. 6.3 Pattern Making............................................................................................................45
Fig. 6.4 Cutting.........................................................................................................................45
Fig. 6.5 Printing........................................................................................................................46
Fig. 6.6 Sewing.........................................................................................................................46
Fig. 6.7 Heat Seal Press............................................................................................................46
Fig. 6.8 Ironing.........................................................................................................................47
Fig. 6.9 Quality Control...........................................................................................................47
Fig. 7.1 Merchandising Section................................................................................................51
Fig. 7.2 Organogram of Merchandising Section......................................................................52

6
Fig. 7.3 Garments Merchandising Flow Chart.........................................................................52
Fig. 8.1 Process flow chart of Knitting....................................................................................60
Fig. 8.2: Production Flow chart................................................................................................61
Fig. 8.3: Flow Chart of Dyeing................................................................................................64
Fig. 8.4: Flow Chart of Finishing............................................................................................67
Fig. 9.1 Sample.........................................................................................................................71
Fig. 12.1 Stored accessories for garments................................................................................83
Fig. 12.2 Stored accessories for sample...................................................................................84
Fig. 12.3 Stored thread for sewing garments............................................................................84
Fig. 12.4 Stored sample garments for approval........................................................................84
Fig. 13.1 Effluent Treatment Plant of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.................................................89

List of Tables

Table 5.1 Cutting Machines Specification...............................................................................23

Table 5.12 Fabrics Lay Height, Lay Quantity and Fabric Weight...........................................30
Table 5.2 Types of Fabric & Their Relaxation Time...............................................................31
Table 7.1 All the processes of garments merchandising..........................................................54

7
Chapter-01
Introduction

8
1.1 Introduction
Interstoff Apparels Ltd is one of the country’s leading knit composite factories. It is a 100%
export oriented composite knit textile unit with the commitment to cater the global needs of
21st century for knit & casual clothing. The project has employed the state-of-art technology
in its every piece of investments. Aiming at the context of the changing global demand
pattern, international environment on trade specially the withdrawal of quota system and GSP
and the availability of craftsmanship in the country, the project has encompassed the knitting,
dyeing and processing of fabrics and ready-made garments production to be available from
one stop service. The project ensures sampling to supply of finished ready-made garments all
from one source, ensuring in time delivery & complying quality. The machines &equipment
setup for this project are procured from world class brand, names that are renowned for their
high quality, product integrity & dependable production. The manpower engaged in this
project to carry out the day-to-day business is all highly skilled, purely professional, vastly
experienced. The unique combination of organized managerial and technical term in one hand
and latest, advanced and balanced technology on the other hand made the project one of the
top to be referred in this field in the country. Crystal Composite Ltd. is committed not only to
deliver world class product but also to quality assurance, price affordability & social
accountability. Considering all the above features to learn about the technology of textile
manufacture as well as management & maintenance, Crystal Composite Ltd. was surely a
good choice. I feel very lucky to complete our here.

1.2 Objectives
Objective means the purpose of this report. The objectives of this report are as follows:
• To get a feel of the work environment.
• To apply the knowledge taught in the lecture rooms in real industrial situations.
• To get an idea about practical field.
• To get a proper direction about career.
• To make a merge with the theoretical knowledge with practical knowledge.
• To develop leadership quality.
• To get the ability about doing team work.
• To make the ability among oneself to take challenges in odd situations.

9
 Chapter-02
Introduction of
Factory

10
2.1 Introduction of Factory
Interstoff Apparels Ltd. is a knit composite factory which is committed to deliver quality
products. Interstoff started its business in 2000 with a small garments factory named
‘Interstoff Clothing Limited’ with only 62 sewing machines. It has now grown into an
internationally and trusted name in knit manufacturing for skilled workmanship,
progressive R&D, consistent quality and services through a 10,000 strong workforce.

Fig. 2.1 Industrial Building

11
2.2 Factory Location

Fig. 2.2 Factory Location

12
2.3 Factory Profile
INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED

Factory Address:
Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
Tel: (8802) 8817881,989 4544, Fax: (8802)882 8458

Contact Person:
Marketing & Merchandising
Mr. Md. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director
E-mail: [email protected]
Mr. Naimul Bashar Chowdhury, Director
E-mail: [email protected]

2.4 History of Interstoff of Industries

Interstoff started its business in 2000 with a small garments factory named Interstoff Clothing
Limited with only 62 sewing machines. It has now grown into an internationally and trusted
name in knit manufacturing for skilled workmanship, progressive R&D, consistent quality
and services through a 10,000 strong workforce.

2.5 Mission:
They are committed
To their Customers: Total satisfaction through providing on-time delivery of quality products
& services.
To their Employees: Good work environment & compliance with national &
international rules.

13
To their Society: Creation of a better tomorrow.

14
2.6 Achievements:
• National Export Trophy for the Year of 2012-2013. Awarded by the Honorable
Minister of Industry of the People Republic of Bangladesh in 2016.
• Environmental & Social Excellence Award: Social and Environmental Excellence
Award -2014 organized by GIZ and Brand Forum. We are Platinum winner on
category Environment Efficiency Performance and Gold winner in inclusive skills
development category.
• Best Friendly Factory. From Center for the Rehabilitation of the Paralyzed CSR
activity called as Marks & Start Program for the year 2011.
• Best Worker Friendly Knitwear Factory. In 2010 BKMEA awarded Interstoff
Apparels Ltd. becoming first among other top leading Factories in Bangladesh.
• Important Contribution Trophy By TESCO in 2009 which was awarded for achieving
the Best performer of the Year.
• National Export Trophy for the Year of 2007 – 2008.Awarded by the Honorable
Minister of Industry of the People Republic of Bangladesh at Bango Bandhu Shiekh
Muzibur Rahman National Convocational Center.
• Best Supplier for The Year of 2003 By TESCO which is one of the Leading and
Large GMT Customer in EUROPE.
•
• Best Business Partner. By Well Group of Industries for being best in always
throughout the year.
• Consecutive 3 times we are WRAP Platinum Supplier Factory.

14
2.7 Product & Services
2.7.1 Fabrics
• Single jersey (solid or stripes)
• 1*1 rib (solid or stripes)
• 2*2 rib (Lycra or cotton)
• 100% cotton single jersey
• Single jersey with Lycra
• Single jersey AOP(all over print)
• Loop back fleece
• Brush back fleece
• Cotton rib
• Cotton-lycra mix rib
• Interlock
• Polo pique
• Design jersey
• Design ribs
• Auto stripe rib
• Jersey
• Fleece etc.

2.7.2 Ready-made Garments:

• T-Shirt
• Polo Shirt
• Skirts
• Trousers
• Hoodie
• Pull Over
• Baby Wear
• Jackets

15
• Light weight woven pajama

16
2.8 Major buyers of the company:
• M&S
• H&M
• TESCO
• Carrefour
• DKNY
• Tommy Hilfiger
• Marks
• Stanley/Stella
• Rip zone
• Sussan
• Cotton On
• BMG
• FWD
• Lotto
• Portfolio
• River Island
• Target

Fig. 2.3 Major Buyers

16
 Chapter-03
Organizational Structure

17
3.1 Organogram of the factory

3.1.1 Organogram of Administration:

Chairman
↓
Managing Director
↓
Director
↓
Executive Director
↓
General Manager
↓
Deputy General Manager
↓
Assistant General Manager

Fig. 3.1 Organogram of Administration

18
3.2 Production Manager Organogram of Operation:

Senior manager
↓
Manager
↓
Assistant manager
↓
Production officer
↓
Shift in charge
↓
Supervisor
↓
Senior Operator
↓
Operator
↓
Assistant operator
↓
Helper

Fig. 3.2 Production Manager Organogram of Operation

19
 Chapter-04
Raw Materials Used in Interstoff Apparels
Ltd.

20
4.1 Raw Materials Used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd.
100% BCI Cotton Fabric
55% Cotton 45% Lenzing Modal Fabric
95% Polyester 5% Spandex Fabric
95% Rayon 5% Spandex Fabric
CVC French Terry Fabric
CVC Fleece Fabric
ETC
4.2 Garments of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.

21
Fig. 4.1 Garments

22
 Chapter-05
List of
Machineries

23
5.1 Types of cutting machine used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd. (IAL):
Table 5.1: Cutting Machines Specification
Machine Specification
Machine Name: Straight Knife Cutting
Machine Fabric: All Fabrics
Brand: Eastman
Model Name/Number: Blue Streak
2 Model No. : 629X
Blade Size: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 13 inch
Power Rated: 450/550/750/1200
watt Origin: USA
Fig: Straight Knife Cutting Machine
Machine Name: Band Knife
Machine Technical Specifications
Brand: Eastman
Knife Size: 0.45*10*3500mm
ARM SIZE: 700mm, 900mm
SPEED CONTROL: 570m/min-1140m/min
MACHINE WEIGHT: 280kgs, 300kgs

Fig: Band Knife Machine

Origin: USA

24
 Machine Name: Computerized Automated Cutting
Machine
Machine Model:
TP3002 X Width: 2
MTR
Y Width: 1.7 MTR
Cutting height: 7cm
Machine Specification
compressed Manufacturer: Fk
Machine Name: Pattern Making Machine
Group Italy
Fig: Computerized Automated Cutting m/c Models: Winda Pattern Cutting
Category: Cutting - automated cutting machines
Cutting speed: Maximum 60cm/s, average
35cm/s
Cutting thickness: ≤ 2.0mm
Cutting materials: Red hard paper board,
plastic board
Pen quantity: Various pen shape, setup of
full and half
Origin: China
Fig: Pattern Making Machine
Machine Name: Spreading Machine
Product Specification:
Working width (cm): 300/320
Weight (Kg):550/600
Rolls maximum diameter (cm):50
Rolls maximum weight
(Kg):200Kg
Maximum spreading speed (mt/min):~80
Fig: Spreading Machine
Origin: Italy
Machine Name: Fusing Machine
Technical Data:
Brand: HASHIMA
Machine Type:
Automatic Power
25
Consumption: 4kw Size:
450mm
Max Temperature: 200 degree Celsius
Origin: Japan
Fig: Fusing Machine
5.2 Process Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Section:
Pattern received from pattern department

Cutting ratio received from merchandiser

Marker making

Fabric received from the store

Fabric Checking

Fabric Spreading

Marker placing on to the lay

Cutting the

fabric

Numbering

Checking

Sorting and Bundling

Send to the sewing department

Fig. 5.1 Flow Chart of Fabric Cutting Section

25
5.3 Pattern Making:
Patterns are paper templates for all the components of a garment, such as cloths, lining,
interlining which have to be cut for making a garment. These patterns are used to draw sketch
on cloth or marker paper.

Fig. 5.4 Pattern

5.4 Steps of Garment Pattern Making

Patterns are made in two steps:
1. Block pattern.
2. Working pattern.

5.4.1 Block pattern:

Block pattern or basic block indicates the original pattern. Block Pattern is made based on the
specific and standard body measurement without any design or style. It is produced according
to exact dimension of body for different age group and gender.

5.4.2 Working pattern:

Working pattern is derived from the flat method or modeling. Each and every pattern is laid
on the board paper to copy the block pattern. Then sewing allowance, Trimming allowance,
Button hole, button attaching, dart, pleat, Notch, shrinkage of the fabric, etc are added with
26
the copied pattern. Working pattern are needed for each an every part of the garments.
Working patterns are then cut with a sharp scissor or knife. Garment size and name of the
parts are written on the pattern pieces. Sample garments are made from the working pattern.

5.5 Grading:
Grading means the step wise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create larger or
smaller sizes. The starting point can be the smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the
overall size of a design but not its general shape and appearance. Computer aided grading
systems utilize internal calculation algorithms (grading rules) for pattern construction.

5.6 Two methods of Grading:

1. Manual Grading
2. Computer aided Grading

5.6.1 Manual Grading:

The desired range of sizes is created one by one using a pattern template. Marks are made
around the master pattern at the appropriate distance and the marks are later joined up to form
the enlarged pattern. In this way a full set of templates, the pattern set is generated.
A Grading machine eases the task of creating the pattern set. The device grips the master
pattern and displaces it by a precise vertical and horizontal distance, after which the
appropriate edge can be traced.

5.6.2 Computer Aided Grading:

Computerized pattern grading makes the grading process fast, more consistent, and. more
reliable than traditional manual grading. However, existing computerized grading. Systems
still require manual calculation of grade rules and then entry into data files.

27
 Fig. 5.5 Grading
5.7 Marker making
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the pattern pieces of a garment. It is made just
before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the wastages. The width of a marker is equal to
the width of the fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric i.e. the width
of the marker is kept less than or equal to the width of the Fabric. The pattern pieces should
be placed very carefully in such a way that it will obviously minimize wastages.

Fig. 5.6 Marker Making

5.8 Objects of marker making

• To reduce cost.
• To improve the quality of the garments.
• To reduce the cutting time.
• To facilitate large scale production.
28
5.9 Types of marker making
Generally, there are two methods by which marker can be made:
5.9.1 Manual Method of Marker:
The man performs it by himself using his hands. It is a conventional system and requires
more time.
5.9.2 Computerized Method:
Now the commonly used system of marker making is computerized method. In this system, a
man performs it by himself using computer software (CAD and CAM) and it requires
considerably less time than manual system. Two types of marker are generally made using
computerized system-
5.10 Factors considered during marker making
The important factors considered during marker making are:
Nature of the Fabric: The fabric may be either symmetric or asymmetric. Thus the nature of
the fabric should be considered during marker making.
Lay planning of patterns: Improper lay planning of patterns may create more wastage. Thus
it should be taken under consideration.
a) Alignment of the pattern pieces according to the grain line: It is also another important
factor that must be considered. The warp direction of a fabric is very much important for a
garment and the grain line indicates the warp or wale direction.
b) Requirements of cutting: Before placing the pattern pieces on to the marker or during
marker making the cutting allowances are considered where necessary and where is not. It
may produce more wastage and may reduce the dimensions of patterns.
c) Production planning: Different types and sizes if garments manufacturing may on at a
time in an industry. So during marker making it should be considered.
d) Size of marker: During marker making we have to think about the table size, length of the
fabric, etc.
e) Marker efficiency: The ratio between the total areas of the pattern pieces to the total area
of the maker paper is technically termed as Marker Efficiency. It is expressed in percentage.

29
If it is denoted by the symbol ή then -Marker Efficiency (ή) = (Total areas of the pattern
pieces/Total area of the Marker paper) x 100.

5.11 Factors which influence the marker efficiency

• Length of the marker.
• Pattern Engineering.
• Nature of the fabric.
• Method of marker making.
• Marker width.
• Kinds or design of garments
5.12 Relation among Types of Fabrics Lay Height, Lay Quantity and
Fabric Weight:
Table 5.1: Fabrics Lay Height, Lay Quantity and Fabric Weight
Types of Fabrics Lay Height Lay Quantity Fabric Weight
Single Jersey, Single Jersey 3 to 3.5 inches 80 to 100 plies
150 to 180 GSM
Slub, Single Jersey Stripe, (max) (max)
Interlock etc.
1x1 Rib, 5x2 Rib, Lycra, 2.5 to 3 inches 70 to 80 plies 180 to 220 GSM
Spandex, Pique etc. (max) (max)
Fleece, Terry Fleece etc. 3.5 to 4 inches 40 to 50 plies 240 to 300 GSM
(max) (max)

5.13 Types of Fabric & Their Relaxation Time:

When the fabric comes from the dyeing and finishing, the fabric remains a slightly hot. In
dryer, stenter and compactor heat is applied on fabric. So moisture is removed from the fabric
and it is not in actual condition. But if we keep the fabric in normal temperature and pressure
for a certain time, the fabric absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and regains its original
nature. This process is called fabric relaxation.

30
 Table 5.2 Types of Fabric & Their Relaxation Time
Fabrics Relaxation
Time(Hours)
Single Jersey 12
Rib 24
Interlock 24
Lycra 24
Pique 18
CVC 24
Fleece 36

5.14 Fabric Spreading

Spreading means the smooth laying out of the fabric in superimposed layers of specific
length. The cutting marker paper is laid in the top of the fabric layer. During spreading
number of the plies should be not more than three hundreds but it depends on the thickness of
the fabric and the height of the cutting knife.

Fig. 5.7 Fabric Spreading

31
5.15 Types of Fabric Spreading
1. Automatic Spreading
2. Manual Spreading

5.16 Requirements of fabric spreading

• Alignment of fabric plies.
• Correct ply tension.
• Elimination of fabric faults.
• Correct ply direction and adequate lay stability.
• Elimination of static electricity.
• Avoidance of fusion of plies.
• Avoidance of distortion in spread

32
 Fig. 5.8 Fabric Cutting

Fig. 5.9 Sorting & Bundling

Fig.5.10 Sorting & Bundling

33
5.17 Sewing Section
Sewing is a craft which involve stitching fabrics or other materials together by using needle
and thread by hand or with a machine. After receiving the cut garment parts from the cutting
section, they are sewn sequentially in order to make a garment.

There are some pre required factors which is checked before going to the bulk production.
They are included below

• If all the required machines are available

• If the manpower optimum or not
• If the line is arranged according to the given layout
• If the cutting parts are numbered
• If selection of needle sizes is done or not, etc.

5.18 Elements of Sewing

• Sewing Thread,
• Needle &
• Sewing Machine

34
5.19 Process flow chart of sewing section
Cutting fabric load in sewing section
↓
Line plan according to style or design
↓
Marking
↓
Matching according to bundle no.
↓
Sewing according to Garments design or style
↓
Quality inspection during sewing
↓
Quality inspection after sewing
↓
Excess thread cutting
↓
Remove dirt & dust from garment surface
↓
Quality Audit
↓
Send to next process

Fig. 5.11 Flow chart of sewing section

35
5.20 Different types of Sewing Machine used in Interstoff Apparels Ltd:
Machine Specification
Plain Machine
Specification:
Brand: FDM
Automatic Grade: Automatic
Usage: Medium Material
Max Sewing Speed: 2000-3000 stitch/min
Max Stitch Length: 3mm, 2mm
SPI: 400-4000
Fig: Plain Machine Origin: China

Flat Lock M/c

Specification:
Brand: YAMATO
Operation Mode: Automatic
SPI: 2600
Max Sewing Speed (stitch/min): 5000-6000
Needle bar Stroke: 41.2mm
Origin: Japan
Fig: Flat Lock Machine

Over Lock Machine

Specification:
Brand: YAMATO
Machine Type: Manual
Stitch Type: Over edge Stich
SPI: 400-8000
Max Sewing Speed: 3000-4000 (stitch/min)
Origin: Japan
Fig:Over Lock Machine

36
 Machine Specification
Button Attatching m/c
Specification:
Brand: Brother
Max. Sewing speed: 2,700sti/min
Max. Sewing area: Max 6.4x6.4mm
Dimensions of buttons that can be sewn:
Outer diameter of buttons 8-30mm*1
Stitch length : 0.05~6.4mm

Fig: Button Attatching Machine

Origin: Japan
Button Hole Machine
Specification:
Brand: Brother
Max Sewing Speed: 4000-5000 (stitch/min)
Max Stitch Length: 3mm
Needle bar Stroke: 36.5mm
Number of Threads: 3-5 Threads

Fig: Button Hole Machine Number of Needles: 2 Needles

Bartack Machine
Specification:
Brand: Brother
Usage/Application: Medium Material
Max Sewing Speed: 4000-5000 (stitch/min)
SPI: 90-100
Origin: Japan

Fig: Bartack Machine

37
 Machine Specification
Snap Button Attaching Machine
Specification:
Material: Brass
Brand: Prime
Shape: round
Weight: 0.05
Size/Dimension: 7.8MM
Button Type: Cap and ring snap button
Origin: India
Fig: Snap Button Attaching Machine
PMD Kansai Machine
Specification:
Machine Type: Automatic
Max Sewing Speed: More Than 5000
Number of Needles: Single Needle
Power: 550W
Brand: KANSAI
Stitch Length: 3.16mm
Origin: Japan
Fig: Kansai Machine

Auto Rib Cutter Machine

Specification:
Automatic Grade: Automatic
Phase: Single Phase
Voltage: 210-320 V
Brand: Brother
Origin: Japan

Fig: Auto Rib Cutter Machine

38
39
5.21 All Types of Stitch
There are different types of stitch used in garments;
There are mentioned in the following-
1. Class-100(Chain Stitch)
2. Class-200(Hand Stitch)
3. Class-300(Lock Stitch)
4. Class-400(Multi-thread Stitch)
5. Class-500(Over edge stitch)
6. Class-600(Covering Chain Stitch)

5.22 Sewing line quality check list:

• Buyer approved sample & measurement sheet check.
• Sample wise input check.
• Buyer approved trims card check.
• Buyer approved sample wise style check.
• All machine thread tension check.
• Style wise print & embroidery placement check.
• All process measurement check.
• All machine oil spot check.
• All process S.P.I check as per buyer requirement.
• Input time shading, bundle mistake & size mistake check.
• Buyer approved wise contrast color check.
• As per buyer requirement wise styling check.
• All machine stitch tension balance properly.

5.23 Sewing quality checking points

• Skip/Drop/Broken stitch
• Raw edge
• Size mistake

40
 • Uneven hem
• Uneven cuff
• Uneven neck
• Uneven shoulder
• Uneven placket
• Uneven pocket
• Twisting
• Without care label
• Open tack
• Sleeve up-down
• Stripe up-down
• Open seam
• Four point up-down
• Shading

5.24 Sewing table quality check list

Fig. 5.12 Quality Check in Sewing Sec

41
 • Style wise garments check.
• All process measurement check.
• Front part, back part, sleeve & thread shading check.
• S.P.I check for all process.

5.25 Sewing problems in a factory

• Input problem
• Shortage of skilled operator
• To achieved the overtime, they worked slowly

1. If any problem will create during production then

• Nobody will take the responsibility,
• Nobody will give the instant decision.

2. Sewing line production may be depends on in charge.

3. Needle hole- due to friction, needle eye is to large, mistake of needle selection.
4. Measurement problem- from cutting section
5. Seam pucker
• Due to unequal tension of feed dog and pressure foot on two plies of fabric.
• Due to unequal thread tension.
• Shrinkage of either fabric or sewing thread.

6. Broken stitch
• Due to tension variation between needle & bobbin thread.
• Tension of needle thread is more.
• Low quality sewing thread.
• Needle heating or hook heating.
• Sharp edge of throat plat, hook plate, bobbin cage, needle groove etc.

7. Skipped/Slipped stitch
• If the timing between needle & looper or bobbin is not proper. Needle thread loop is

42
 not picked up by bobbin thread loop when required.
• Unequal tension between sets of threads.
• Deflection or vibration of needle.

8. Variable stitch density

If fabric cannot move forward properly due to lack of pressure of pressure

43
 Chapter-06
Sample Section

44
 Fig. 6.1 Layout of Sample Section

6.1 Introduction
In the garment supply chain, garment buyers need to ensure that the products they are
sourcing from their supplier across the world meet their designs, construction, material
45
quality and fit requirement. To ensure the finished product quality, buyers keep in close
contact with their suppliers and in every stage from sampling to shipment they inspect the
garment for a given order.

6.2 Process Flow Chart of Sample Section:

Sampling is one of the main processes in garment manufacturing and it plays a vital role in
attracting buyers and confirming the order, as the buyers generally place the order once
satisfied with the quality and responsiveness of the sampling. Garment samples are so much
important and are developed tested before starting the bulk production. The buyer will access
the exporter and his organization only by the samples.
i. Received tech pack from the buyer: Merchandiser receives all the tech pack from the
buyer. Where tech pack contains all the required information about the garments order wise:

46
reference sample, measurement chart, print instruction, embroidery instruction, wash
instruction, and so on.

ii. CAD & Pattern making: A sample pattern has to develop according to the tech pack
provided by the buyer.

Fig. 6.2 CAD

Fig. 6.3 Pattern Making

iii. Fabric cutting: After developing a sample pattern, the fabric has to cut here by following
the pattern.

47
Fig. 6.4 Cutting

48
iv. Print or embroidery (if required): If the tech pack contains print or embroidery
instructions then those should be completed in the cutting fabrics according to the tech pack.

Fig. 6.5 Printing

Sewing: Garments are sewn according to the measurement chart.

Fig. 6.6 Sewing

v. Finishing: Ironing or pressing has done in the garments here according to the
measurement chart.

Fig. 6.7 Heat Seal Press

46
 Fig. 6.8 Ironing
vi. QC check:
A quality controller inspects the sample garment here by following the tech pack. It is the
most important section for accurate production and keep order from buyer. There are four
quality checking table & sixteen Q.C master in sample section.

6.3 Following steps are follow here:

• At first garments style checking by Q. C. master compare with tech pack
• Sent for Ironing
• Then check all parts join, measurement, Green Seal, Rack seal etc.
• Send to buyer for comments if perfect then
• If correction required it also follow up Size set, PP sample

Fig. 6.9 Quality Control

47
viii. Send to the buyer for approval: Garment sent to the buyer for approval. If it approves
by the buyer then the garments merchandiser can start the next processes for the garments
production.

6.4 Types of Sample:

At the different stages of product development and garment manufacturing process, the
samples are given a different name.

6.4.1 Proto Sample or 1st Sample:

It is the very first sample given to the buyer. It is prepared according to the buyer’s
specification. It is a trial sample prepared by the product development department. The buyer
wants to see here how it looks like after applying a new design to it. Any type of fabric and
color can be used here.
6.4.2 Fit Sample:
After approving the proto sample, the fit sample should be made by the following buyer
provided a measurement sheet. It can be made by using similar fabric, nearer GSM, and any
color as well as stitching and measurement must be 100% accurate.
6.4.3 Size Set Sample:
After approving the fit sample, based on the patterns of the approved sample, all the other
sizes samples should be graded here and make patterns for different sizes. Here, it should be
noted that, without the size set sample approval, cutting should not be started.
6.4.4 Photo Shoot Sample:
The name of the sample clarifies it. For capturing a photo for the catalogue and e-commerce
sites photo shoot samples are made, and the photo is taken on model or dress form.
6.4.5 Preproduction Sample (PP Sample):
P.P sample should be made in the actual production line by maintaining all actual of an order
specification. All the development samples are made in the sampling room. It is a very
critical stage than other’s stage. Extra care must be needed here to confirm an order correctly.

48
6.4.6 Development Sample:
The development samples are those sample which made until the final factory gets bulk
production approval. The proto, fit and size set samples are considered as development
sample.

6.4.7 Production Sample:

Factory starts bulk production after the PP sample approval. After the bulk production start,
few garments are picked randomly from the production output of the first production run for
quality checking by the buyer’s QA. These samples are known as Top of Production sample.

6.4.8 Counter Sample:

When a factory makes samples for different sample approvals from the buyer, the factory
makes 2-3 additional samples for their internal reference. These samples are called as the
counter sample. Counter samples are a copy of the original samples.

6.4.9 Shipment Sample:

A shipment sample is needed after completing the final inspection when goods are ready for
shipment. It is a sample that reflects what buyers will receive down to Q.C, folding, tagging,
bagging, labeling and final packaging included. Factory keeps 3 samples for shipment
samples – one for the buyer, the second one for factory and the 3rd one for the buying house
merchant.

49
 Chapter-07
Merchandising Section

50
7.1 Merchandising
In garments sector, merchandising is an important department which negotiates marketing
and production department at the same time. A merchandiser communicate with the buyer
and instruct all the department to make a product according to buyer desire. All the raw
material and accessories are sourced by merchandising department. Though some factory
have different section for that. If any problem found after making a product the responsible
person is the Merchandiser. That’s why they always follow up the production so that the
process can run smoothly until shipment.

Fig. 7.1 Merchandising Section

7.2 Merchandising working process follows mainly three ways:

1. Development Merchandising: Development merchandising addressed the following six
“rights of merchandising” the right merchandise (material and style), in the right quantities,
in the right colors, sizes, at the right time, at the right price, and in the right place.
2. Production Merchandising: Production merchandising in garment trade refers to the
work of contacting with buyer, Costing and quoting price of required garments, collecting
raw materials, Planning and production of the garments, Maintaining required quality level
and Shipment to the right destination at right time.

51
7.3 Organogram of Merchandising Section
Assistant General Manager
↓
Manager
↓
Assistant Manager
↓
Senior Merchandiser
↓
Merchandiser
↓
Assistant Merchandiser
↓
Trainee Merchandiser
Fig. 7.2 Organogram of Merchandising Section

7.4 Process Flow Chart of Apparel or Garments Merchandising

Order received from the Buyer with details
↓
Sample Development
↓
Price negotiation with the Buyer
↓
Confirmation of order and receive the order sheet
↓
Make buyer requirement sample (Fit, Proto, etc.) for approval
↓
Make requisition for bulk fabric
↓

52
 Make requisition for accessories
↓
Swatch board making and approval
↓
Raw material collection and also receive it in factory
↓
Check and also listing
↓
Make P.P (pre-production Sample) with all actual
↓
Pre-production meeting
↓
Start bulk production
↓
Collect daily production and quality report
↓
Make online inspection by strong quality team
↓
Sample sent to third party testing center
↓
Make final inspection for bulk production
↓
Shipment
↓
Send all documents to the Buyer
↓
Receive payment from Bank

Fig. 7.3: Garments Merchandising Flow Chart

53
7.5 All the processes of garments merchandising are now discussed:
Table 7.1: All the processes of garments merchandising
Serial No. Subject Activity
Order received from the Buyer with First work of a merchandiser is to
01
details collect order from buyer with details.
Sample Development The sample should be developed by
02 following buyers’ instruction

03 Price negotiation with the Buyer Price should be negotiated with buyer.

Confirmation of order and receive the Here price has to fix and collect the
04
order sheet order sheet from the Buyer.
Make buyer requirement sample (Fit, Prepare proto or fit sample for buyer
05
Proto, etc.) for approval approval
Make requisition for bulk fabric In the meantime, make fabric
06
requisition for bulk production.
Make requisition for accessories Make requisition for accessories of
07
that order.
Swatch board making and approval Should prepare swatch board of
08 required accessories for the Buyer’s
approval.
Raw material collection and also Collect all raw materials and receive
09
receive it in factory in time.
Check and also listing Check all the in-hosed material with a
10
requisite sheet.
Make P.P (pre-production Sample) According to buyer instructions make
11 with all actual a pre-production sample with all
actual.

54
 Pre-production meeting Before going into the production,
12 have to arrange a pre-production
meeting for smooth production.
13 Start bulk production We have to go for bulk production.
Collect daily production and quality Regular production and quality
14 report reports should be collected here on
regular basis.
Make online inspection by strong During bulk production we have to
15
quality team make an online inspection.
Sample sent to third party testing For making a strong approval about
center the quality of the product, have to
16
send a sample to the third-party
testing center.
Make final inspection for bulk After bulk production we have to
17
production make a final inspection.
Shipment After making a final inspection of the
18 product, all the clothing should send
to the Buyer.
Send all documents to the Buyer All documents of the order should be
19 sent to the buyer after sending the
full order quantity for receiving
Receive payment from Bank payment.receive the payment from the
Finally,
20 Bank.

7.6 Responsibilities of merchandiser

The merchandiser had the job of getting orders and executing them; doing the role of
production coordinator in the same breadth. However, the general essential responsibilities of
a merchandiser are as follows:
• Identify and analyses the requirements of the customers and materialize the product as

55
 they expect by proper communication with each and individual department of the
apparel industry.
• It is the sole responsibility of the merchandiser to ensure the exact quality and timely
delivery of the product to the customer.
• Merchandiser should understand the existing infrastructure, quality norms and
capabilities of the plant. This will help the merchandiser to cost the product
compatible.

• After accepting an order, it is essential for the customer to review the capacity of the
company, hence they ask for samples and prototype. It is the job of merchandiser to
convince the customer and get the order.
• Creating a TNA (Time and Action) calendar for fixing schedules for various activities
like cutting, sewing, dispatch, etc. and each and every small action need to be carried
out as his/her special roles.
• The delivery at the right time, at the right place and a right cost is the mantra of the
merchandiser. So, he or she needs to update the order status regularly to view at any
point in time daily to have a better hold on the schedule.
• Coordinates and tracks the sourcing activities and make sure that all the raw materials
are delivered on time.
• The communication and effective delivery of each and every order help the company
and merchandiser to have a healthy relationship with the buyer/customer for a long-
term business.
• Identifying the problems and helping the production facility by aiding suitable
information whenever they require.

7.7 Merchandising Related Terms

BOM: Bill of Materials .BOM sheet made with Tech packer. It's a list of your product's
components with corresponding costs and quantities.
Teck-Pack: It is the collected data of a particular order with a full detailed description of that
order. These details are either received from the buyer or developed by the merchandiser.
56
Lab Dip: This is 10×10 cm swatch dyed in laboratory for checking color standards given on
pantone is known as lab dip. But normally 5×5 cm is taken. Generally, 3-5 colored sample is
attached as an option and if there is close color shade.
Base Fabric: It is the Basic fabric is grey fabric which is initially get used for sampling.
Fabrication: Fabrication is the process of garments fabric preparation before bulk
production. Like the construction
Strike-off-: This trail samples made by printer or computerized embroidery, which
merchandiser sends to buyer for approval is known as strike –off. It represents the whole
style.
Lead Time: From the date of placing an order to the delivery date this period is known as
lead time. Generally, lead time is 90-100 days.
SMV: Standard Minute Value. SMV is important topic in garments sewing floor. Standard
Minute Value is related with garments time study. With this Production Lead time is
calculated.
FOB: Free on Board. It is a designation that is used to indicate when liability and ownership
of goods is transferred from a seller to a buyer.
FOC: Free on Charge.
Style Number: Style number a series of style which is easy to get the style references. Every
Product has its own style no. by which it can be identified.
AQL: AQL is related to the quality of products. In textile factory Acceptance Quality Level
is shortly denoted by AQL.
Allowance: Additional measurement which added with body measurement in case of
garments making. For example, if the actual body measurement is 80cm, then it’s counted as
84cm during pattern making. Here allowance is 4cm.
CM: Cost of making. It is use for pricing of any garments. Here fixed cost, No of Machines,
M/c required for an item, working day and working hour is considered.
Open costing: Open Costing is the process of estimating and then determining the total cost
of producing a garment, including the cost of materials, labor and transportation as well as
the general expenses of the operating the business that visual for buyer and they can comment
on that if anything need to update.
57
Back to Back LC: Back-to-back LC is one which is issued on behalf of an export oriented
industrial unit against the security of an export LC for procurement of raw materials either
locally or from abroad. A back-to-back LC is a Triangle of Trust among the parties including
the garments factory, the fabric & accessories supplier, and the bank. Thus, with the help of
back-to-back LC a garment factory can works without working capital.
Partial Shipment: Partial shipment is the delivery of an order in more than one shipment.
That means, when a buyer orders goods, all the goods are not shipped together, rather they
are sent to the buyer in parts. To make a partial shipment, it must be agreed upon by the
buyer in a letter of credit.
CPM: CPM means Cost per Minute. CPM can help to find out per hour, shift, day and week
cost of garments.
Lead Time: From the date of placing an order to the delivery date this period is known as
lead time. Generally, lead time is 90-120 days. Lead time is also called as preparing time for
order execution.
Ex-Factory Date : Ex-factory date is the date on which the supplier (here a garment
manufacturer) needs to keep the shipment ready and need to move the shipment out from the
factory and hand it over to the shipment forwarder. This is called ex factory date.
Trims: All the materials that are attached with the body part of the garments. Like, Button,
Sewing thread, Zipper, Label, Lining, Elastic etc.
Accessories: All the materials that are not attached with the body parts of the garments. Like,
Hang tag, Hanger, Carton, Tag pin, Tape, Poly bag etc.
L/C: The meaning of L/C is letter of credit which given by the buyer via bank. In a normal
word’s L/C is a document of order which is provide buyer to manufacturer where all the
terms and conditions are mention.
Pantone: Pantone is a universal shade color shade card. It gets used in all industries for DTM
(dye to match). There are 6-digit numbers for each color.).
PO: Purchase order, or PO, is an official document issued by a buyer committing to pay the
seller for the sale of specific products or services to be delivered in the future.

58
 Chapter-08
Production Planning & Sequence & Operation

59
8.1 Knitting Unit
8.1.1 Process flow chart of Knitting

Yarn in cone form

↓
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement
↓
Tension devices
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering

Fig. 8.1 Process flow chart of Knitting

8.1.2 Types of Fabric Manufactured in Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Group

Single Jersey

Lycra Single Jersey

Rib

Lycra Rib

Terry

Fleece

Waffle

Interlock
60
Auto Striped

Feder Striped
8.1.3 Knitting Faults
1. Oil Spot
2. Set up
3. Yarn Loop
4. Yarn Miss
5. Yarn Mix
6. Knit Fly
7. Pin Star
8. Wheel Free
9. Long Slub
10. Wrong yarn
11. Sinker Broken
12. Wrong Yarn
13. Boblin
14. Poly Contain
15. Spd Drop
16. Spd Out
17. Small Teeth
18. Needle Loop
19. Needle Broken

8.1.4 Production Flow Chart

Executive director takes order from Buyer
↓
Merchandiser estimates total amount of yarn of production
↓
Knitting manager gets production order sheet
↓
K.M orders senior production officer followed by Production officer and technical in-
charge
↓
Production officer fixes up stitch length and G.S.M with mechanical filter
↓
Definite operator operates machine in his full conscious and attention
↓

61
 Mechanical fitter fixes machine if there is any m/c fault
↓
Supervisors keep daily production report and assure m/c is OK
↓
Fabric roll is checked by a troop of inspectors in inspection unit and weighted
↓
Final product to the required amount is delivered to dyeing unit.

Fig. 8.2: Production Flow chart

8.2 Dyeing & Finishing Unit

8.2.1 Dyeing Lab Section
Laboratory is the heart of dyeing industry. An efficient laboratory can increase the efficiency
of dyeing. So, laboratory in-charge is sometimes called pilot. Before bulk production, a
sample is sent to buyer for approval. Laboratory supplies the recipe to the floor.
8.2.2 Objectives of Lab Dip
1. For good dyeing
2. For good shade
matching

3.Mass production suitable

8.2.3 Purpose of Laboratory
1. Get colour approval from buyer.
2. Recipe supply to the floor.
3. Shade correction.
4. Minimize the deviation between bulk and laboratory.
5. Development of lab dip
6. Physical test
7. Chemical test
8. Purity test (dyes and chemicals).

62
8.2.4 Machineries in Dyeing Laboratory
The Factory is equipped with a most modern setup of brand new & latest model laboratory
and quality control machines of Europe & USA origin. Such as:

1. Spectrophotometer
2. Color matching cabinet
3. Light source
4. Electronic GSM measuring machine.
5. Washing machine.
6. Automatic Pilling tester machine
7. Compressor machine
8. Titri metric machine
9. Strength tester machine
10. Light source
11. Electronic GSM measuring machine.
12. Washing machine.
13. Automatic Pilling tester machine
14. Compressor machine
15. Strength tester machine

8.2.5 Test Name

1. Color fastness to washing
2. Color fastness to rubbing
3. Color fastness to
perspiration
4. Phenolic test
5. Pilling test
6. GSM test
7. Pull test

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 8.2.6 Flow Chart for Dyeing
Batching
↓
Select M/C No.
↓
Fabric Loading
↓
Select Production Program
↓
Pre-Treatment
↓
Select Recipe for Dyeing
↓
Recipe Confirmed by Dm/Po
↓
Dyeing
↓
Post Treatment
↓
Unload

Fig. 8.3: Flow Chart of Dyeing

8.2.7 Raw materials used in the dyeing section are
1.Grey
fabrics
2.Dyes
3.Chemicals

1. Grey Fabrics: Following types of grey fabrics are dyed in Interstoff Apparels Ltd:
 Single jersey
 Spandex Polo pique
 Terry
 Single Lacoste
 Double Lacoste

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 Rib
 Rib with spandex
8.2.8 Common Dyeing Faults with their Remedies
Uneven Dyeing
Causes:
Uneven pre-treatment (uneven scouring & bleaching), Improper color dosing ,Using dyes of
high fixation property, Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers, Lack of control
on dyeing m/c.
Remedies:
By ensuring even pre-treatment,By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers,
Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals, Proper controlling of dyeing machine.
Batch to Batch Shade Variation
Causes:
Fluctuation of Temperature, Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals, Batch to batch
weight variation of dyes and chemicals, Dyes lot variation, Improper reel speed, pump
speed, liquor ratio, Improper pre-treatment.
Remedies:
Use standard dyes and chemicals, Maintain the same liquor ratio, Follow the standard,
pre-treatment procedure, Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
Roll to Roll Variation or Meter to Meter Variation:

Causes:
Poor migration property of dyes, Improper dyes solubility, Hardness of water, Faulty
m/c speed, etc.
8.2.9 Finishing
Textile finishing, in a restricted sense, is the term used for a series of processes to which all
bleached, dyed, printed and certain grey fabrics are subjected before they are put on
the market. In fact, finishing includes the final treatment of every kind of fabric made from
every kind of fiber.
8.2.10 Objective of Finishing

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 1. Improving the appearance -Lustre, whiteness, etc.
2. Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and
3. Its softness, suppleness, fullness, etc.
4. Waring qualities, none - soiling, anti-crease, ant shrink, comfort, etc.
5. Special properties required for particular uses - water -proofing, flame proofing, etc.
6. Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
7. Increasing the weight of the cloth.

8.2.11 Types of Finishing

1) Chemical Finishing:
 Chemical reaction of auxiliaries with fibers.
 Application of the handle modifying products /additives
2) Mechanical Finishing:
 Mechanical treatment with machines

8.2.12 Finishing Effects

• Easy –care
• Crease recovery.
• Dimensional stability.
• Good abrasion resistance.
• Improved tear strength.
• Good suability
• Soft or stiff handle.
• Shine or luster.

8.2.13 Name of Machineries in Finishing

The machines that are used in open line that is given bellow:
1. Slitting m/c
2. De-watering m/c
3. Stenter machine
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 4. Dryer

5. Open Compactor

The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:
1. De-watering m/c
2. Dryer
3. Tube Compactor

Other machines:
1. Softener m/c
2. Raising

8.2.14 Flowchart of Finishing

Slitting
↓
Heat Setting
↓
Sewing
↓
Drying
↓
Slitting
↓
Stenter
↓
Compacting

Fig. 8.4: Process flow chart of Dyeing

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 Chapter-09
Quality Assurance

68
9.1 1 Quality Assurance
Quality control entails producing bulk items that are similar to or identical to samples
in order to satisfy client demand. A quality assurance system is considered to boost
client trust and a business' reputation, enhance productivity and efficiency, and make
a business more competitive. Quality assurance, in the context of creating goods and
services, refers to any methodical procedure for determining if a good or service
conforms to predetermined standards.
9.2 Quality Assurance Procedure
In Interstoff Apparels Ltd. assures the quality of their products in the following steps:
1. Online inspection
2. Offline inspection
9.2.1 Cutting:
After cutting every pattern pieces are inspected and fault piece is replaced by a new
one.
Types of fault: (cutting)
Dirty mark
Foreign fiber
Knot
Line mark / Loom stop mark
Missing yarn
Slub Spot
Thin
yarn
Weaving

9.3 Sewing & Finishing

In sewing 2 or 3 or more QC table is placed for inspection. It varied according to
buyer requirement.

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Types of Defect:

1. Measurement defect 19. Down migration 38. Foreign metal

2. Material flow 20. Unmatched stripe 39.Seam tape defect

3. Open seam 21. Poor shape 40.Puckering/Pleat

4. Broken stitch 22. Uneven

5. Skip stitch 23. Left and right uneven

6. Raw edge 24. High & Low

7. Irregular/uneven
25. Twisted
stitch
8. Misaligned 26. Improper stitch

9. Run off stitch 27. Poor join stitch

10. Seam puckering 28. Shading (Dyeing/Washing)

11. Excessive tight 29. Misplaced

12. Wrong position 30. Dirt/oil spot

13. Wrong color of

31. Hole
thread
32.Tension Problem
14. Crooked
33.Print/Embroidery damage
15. Gathers inequality
34.Mold/Paste
16. Damage
35.Wrong size/Place
17. Needle cut
36.Wrong Poly/Carton/Ratio/Size
18. Seams breaking
37.Mixed Size/Color

For sewing fault, defected garments is sent for alter and non-alterable garments is
rejected.

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9.4 Offline inspection:
Offline inspected is done in finished garments. In offline inspection is done by 1.5
system where buyer done it by 2.5 system.

Fig. 9.1 Sample

71
 Chapter-10
Maintenance of
Machinery

72
10.1 Maintenance of Machinery
As a result of use, there will be some level of wear and tear; consequently, adequate
care should be taken to avoid causing excessive wear and tear to the machine and its
components, which would lead to failures. Proper care includes lubrication, cleaning,
early inspection, and planned maintenance. Maintenance is the action taken to
maintain and repair a machine. There are two kinds of upkeep:
1. Breakdown Maintenance
2. Preventive Maintenance

10.2 Breakdown Maintenance

Breakdown of a machine occurs due to the followings two reasons:
1. Due to unpredictable failure of components
2. due to gradual wear & tear of the parts
In breakdown maintenance, defects are rectified only when the machine cannot
perform its function any longer and the production department is compiled to call or
maintenance engineers for repair. After repairing the defect, the maintenance engineer
does not attend the machine any longer until another failure occurs.

Preventive maintenance is sometimes termed as “Interstoff Apparels Ltd.

maintenance” or “Scheduled maintenance” or “Systematic maintenance” etc. It is an
extremely important function for the reduction of maintenance cost and to keep the
good operational condition of equipment and hence increase the reliability. Preventive
maintenance aims to locate the sources of trouble and to remove them before
breakdown occurs.

10.3 Routine maintenance

1. Daily Maintenance:
Every machine is taken maintenance daily by the operators during production. When
a production is started by the operator after handing over from previous shift operator,
he takes a routine maintenance on the machine. He cleans the machine, assures fabric
is fed to the machine properly, cleans the roller & motor etc. All around of the
machine are kept neat and clean as if there is no dirt/spot in the fabric.

73
2. Schedule/Routine Maintenance:
Every machine has a schedule of maintenance of 10 or 15 days. According to date,
schedule maintenance is taken on the machines. Operators are informed about the
time of maintenance. After pre-estimated production, they hand over the machine to
the fitters. Thus, fitters assure all machines are ok for any time. For an even flow of
production Routine Maintenance is done once in 6 months in CFDL.

3. Break down maintenance:

When product quality hampered and to complete production in due time break down
maintenance is taken. There are many faults seen in the garments during production.
Then operators inform the mechanical fitters and they fix it.

10.4 Maintenance in utility department

Utility department contains the following machines:
1. Fire tube Boiler
2. Generator
3. Compressor
4. Air Conditioner
Following maintenance check should be done in these machines:
1. Boiler gas burner
2. Boiler filter
3. Water filter
4. Boiler blow down
5. Heating arrangement
6. Compressor moisture management system
7. Air duct & conditioning of air
10.5 Remarks
Maintenance department of Interstoff Apparels Ltd. is very skilled. But the scheduled
maintenance is done once in 6month for not disturbing the production process thus
their breakdown maintenance is more.

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 Chapter-11
Utility Service

75
11.1 Utility facilities available:
For smooth functioning of any production unit, uninterrupted and required utility
services are indispensable. Success of any industry largely depends on this factor.
Any irregularity or lack in the required utility services immediately results in
unexpected halt of the production process. An Industry needs various utilities
depending on its manufacturing process.

11.2 The Major Utilities are-

 Power (Electricity)
 Water
 Natural gas
 Compressed air
 Steam

Machine specifications:
General Parameter of Generator:
 1. Oil System : 2200rpm
 2. Ignition : Time setting for each cylinder
 3. Gas system : Amount of gas per cylinder
 4. Exhaust system : 8000 Cubic meter/min
 5. Water Temperature : 80-90c
6. Load : 1000 KW
 7. Voltage (max & min) : 400V-380V
 8. Frequency : 50Hz
 9. Power Factor : -0.98
 10. Battery Voltage : 26V

11.3 Sources of utilities:

The main utility which is used by Interstoff Apparels Ltd. is natural gas. From
natural gas generator produce electricity. From natural gas and electricity in
association with mechanical and electrical apparatus, INTERSTOFF APPARELS
LTD. produces other utilities like water, steam, compressed air etc.

76
11.4 Capacity and other technical details: power (electricity):
Generator house is the main power producing plant of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.
There are three generators in generator house. Two of them being gas generator
and another is diesel generator. The two-gas generator are of 900W and 750W
respectively and Diesel generator is of 400 KVA.

11.5 Specification of generator:

Name: -Generator
Manufacturer Name: - Waukesha Model: -VHP5900GSID Origin: - USA Capacity: -
750KW Units: -1
Name: -Generator
Manufacturer Name: -Waukesha Model: -VHP5904GSID
Origin: - USA Capacity: -900KW Units: -1

Steam:
The required steam is produced by boiler. There are two boilers in INTERSTOFF
APPARELS LTD both of which are fire tube boiler.
Name: -Boiler
Manufacturer Name: -Cochran Model: -T Origin: -USA Capacity:7710 KW Units: -1

11.6 Compressed Air:

The compressed air is supplied from air compressor. There are two air compressors
in Interstoff Apparels Ltd.
Name: - compressor
Manufacturer Name: -Worthington
Model: - Creyssensac RLR
Origin: -France
3
Capacity: 353 m /h
Pressure: 10.58bar
Units: -2

11.7 Water:
The water source of INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. is deep tube well. The deep
tube well is about 260 ft deep. The average water consumption is 40-50 m³ / hr. and
the water softening method is Base Exchange method.

77
11.8 Gas:
The source of gas is government agency. Gas is required mainly for generation of
electricity, boiler to produce steam, the burners of heat setting m/c.

As INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. generates their own electricity, the gas

consumption is quite high. The gas consumption is 350-400 m³ / hr.
Steam Boiler:
Brand Name : CLEAVER BROOKS
Origin : Made in USA
No. of Boiler : 4
Capacity : 5, 10, 12.5, 15 Ton
Power : 350-600 HP
Brand Name : TIZAN

General Parameter:
Boiler Water PH : 9-11
TDS : 2500 (maximum)
Steam Pressure : 70-80 PSI
Maximum Steam Pressure : 150PSI
No. of Input Water Motor : 2
Temperature : 300F
Power Management:
1. 5 Ton Boiler used in Bleaching Department for Desizing &
Scouring
2. 10 Ton Boiler is used for Bleaching Department
3. 12.5 Ton Boiler is used in Sizing & Dyeing Department

Compressor:
Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor & the air is
compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold water is drawn to
reduce the temperature of compressed air. Thus the cold water becomes slightly hot &
goes through outlet pipe to the overhead reservoir. At the other hand the cooled
compressed air along with some vapors are transferred to the reservoir where the
vapors are condensed and outlets drop by drop.

78
The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compressed air is
delivered to required sections of EOS.

Machine specifications:
Machine No.-1
Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Centac
Model : 20V35M*3
Serial No : C12093
Year : 2005
Country : Brazil
Capacity : 90 Nm3/m
Machine No.-2
Name : Ingersoll Rand Air Compressor Cen.
Model : 20V33M3
Serial No : M92-6612
Year : 1992
Country : USA
Intake temperature : 35 deg.C
11.9 Source of utility
Electrically : REB & Generator.
Steam : Boiler.
Water : DEPZ Authority.
Compressed air : Compressor.
Temperature control : Chiller.
Gas : DESCO.
11.10 Cost of different utilities
1. Electricity : 2 lakh BDT(appr.)

2. Gas : 2 lakh BDT(appr.)

3. Water : Not found

Remarks
Utility services are the heart of a textile processing mill. It should need proper
maintenance to run the mill efficiently.

79
 Chapter-12
Inventory Management

80
12.1 Inventory system of raw material:
It is previously speaking that Interstoff Apparels Ltd. is a knit composite industry.
The main raw material of Interstoff Apparels Ltd. (IAL) is gray fabric. Grey fabric
first produces in knitting department of this company. Knitting section of
Interstoff Apparels Ltd. produces grey fabric as per buyer’s order. Dyeing section
get grey fabric from knitting section. Grey fabric store officer receives the grey
fabric and store the grey fabric in storeroom. Then he delivers the grey fabric to
batch preparation section according to shipment date or according to production
manager of dyeing section instruction. Other raw materials of (IAL) are dyes and
chemicals. Dyes and chemicals store officer always keep stock report of dyes and
chemicals and also know the daily or monthly requirements of each dyes or
chemicals. If the stock is bellowing 45 days then he gives requisition to head
office for each product. Head office indent dyes and chemicals.

12.2 Inventory Control

Store is the place where every type of raw materials, spares, finished goods are kept
in proper system. Inventory control means the calculation and data of every type of
raw materials spares and finished goods in time to time store for inventory
control are necessary, because-
i) To know about the required amount of raw material
ii) To know about the job no which would be
processed .

iii)To be continued the production process

iv) To find out the profit or loss accompany.
v) Stock and stock value for consumption measuring.

12.3 Frequency of inventory Update

 Monthly inventory
control
 Annual inventory
control

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12.4 Raw materials of Inventory Control
* Dyes store
* Other chemicals
* Grey fabric
– Finished fabric.
– Spare parts
– General store
* Capital equipment
* Accessories.
* Maintenance parts

12.5 Type of Inventory Carried in This Factory

Grey Fabric : Imported/Own factory.
Dyes and Chemicals : Important Spare parts and Consumables
Finished fabrics : Good/Reject.
12.6 Inventory System for Raw Materials
1. Raw materials partially received from production planning & directly from head
office.
2. Material receiving & inspection report is prepared. Receive quality is mentioned
and noted down.
3. Submitted to Q.C department
4. Entry of data of goods in Datatec.
5. As per requisition materials supplied and this record are noted down.

12.7 Stages of Inventory Control

Grey Fabric Store
All the grey fabrics are stored in the fabric near the section. Different types of fabric
are listed in the sheet according to fabric types, quality, and consumer’s requirement.
Fabrics GSM, Shrinkage, diameter other Properties are also taken into consideration.
The batches are prepared by required fabrics from grey store.

82
Dyes and Chemicals
There is a different store for dyes and chemicals. Varies types of dyes and chemicals
are store here according to dyes and chemicals companies. Different types of dyes
and chemicals are listed in a sheet. Dyes and chemicals are also including. Every
day the sheet is update. And a copy of this sheet is supplied to the dyeing manager
dye house and lab section.
Spares
In Interstoff Apparels Ltd. required amount of the spears of different machines
are stored in the mechanical store room. All the spears listed in a sheet which is
controlled by the mechanical & maintenance personal. Spars are arranged in the
store room according to size quality and requirements. There are shelves in the
store room to keep the smalls pears.

Finished Goods
Interstoff Apparel Ltd. Suppliers it’s finished dyed fabrics to its garments section. So
dyed finished fabrics are stored for short time in the finishing section. All the
delivered fabrics are noted on the tally khata according to the lot no. quality fabrics
diameter, buyer’s name, color & considering technical parameters

12.8 Different Store Section of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.

1. Accessories Store

Fig. 12.1 Stored accessories for garments.

83
 2.Sample Accessories Store

Fig. 12.2 Stored accessories for sample.

3. Sewing Thread Store

Fig. 12.3 Stored thread for sewing garments.

4. Finished Sample Garments Store

Fig. 12.4 Stored sample garments for approval.

84
 Chapter-13
Effluent Treatment Plant

85
13.1 Effluent Treatment
Waste water generated at various stages of textile dyeing, differ in composition,
strength and volume. There pollution load is high and they arise mostly from spent
dye bath that are principally composed of dyes (mainly unexhausted, hydrolyzed and
surface deposited dyes), dispersing agents, surfactants, electrolytes, acids, alkalis, etc.,
which are unexhausted and have been washed away from the dyed material. These
effluents are characterized by their intense color, high chemical oxygen demand
(COD), salinity and fluctuating pH.
Of all the waste, color is the first contaminant to be recognized because of its
visibility to human eye. The discharge of highly colored water is not only
aesthetically displeasing, but also interferes with the transmission of light. This upsets
the biological processes and the productivity in the receiving streams. In addition,
many colorants are harmful to certain organisms and may cause direct destruction of
aquatic communities. Color hinders the penetration of sunlight which is very much
essential for the photosynthesis by marine plants. Even the discharge of highly
colored waste water from city sewer has its damaging effect.
From environmental protection point of view, color removal becomes an integral part
of textile effluent treatment prior to its discharge to the environment for reuse.
Normally de-colorization methods are divided into four sub groups:
• Chemical methods
• Physico-Chemical methods
• Physical Methods
• Biological Methods

Among the four methods, chemical method is one of the popular methods and directly
or indirectly be means of some chemical reactions, it is responsible for removing dye
from waste water. Chemical methods consist of the following processes:
• Oxidation
• Reduction
• Photolytic Treatment
• Electro Chemical Treatment
• Flocculation/Coagulation
• Fenton Reagent process.

86
13.2 Maintenance of the ETP:
ETP’s goal is to treat waste water and deliver a quality product that meet the standard
for environmental discharge or reuse. Like any other facility a waste water treatment
plant require continuous maintenance. So, maintenance of ETP plant as a whole is
very important. There are different types of maintenance strategies; these are Routine
maintenance, Mechanical maintenance, Breakdown maintenance and Annual shut
down maintenance. In our ETP Routine maintenance is done. Every Friday and
annual shut down maintenance during Eid vacation to maintain standard quality of the
discharge water. Bar screens are cleaned about 3-4 times in every day.

13.3 Sludge Treatment and Handling:

The sludge which is generated in the Flash mixing tank, Flocculation tank, Bio-
Reactor and Tube settler 1, 2, 3 and 4 is taken to sludge sump. Here also aeration is
carried out. The heavy sludge waste is then pumped to a sludge thickener tank where
the sludge is thickened at the bottom of the tank. The thickened sludge from the
thickener is pumped to centrifugal hydro extractor for dewatering the sludge. The
dewatered sludge is transformed into a cake form.
• ETP (Effluent Treatment Plant) Process in INTERSTOFF APPARELS
LTD: The ETP is built up by the combination of the method namely
biological, chemical and physical separation method in order to make
treatment more effective. Now the process is described below:
• Equalization tank consists of raw effluent. At the beginning, raw effluent is led
to the mixing tank/ reaction tank by pumping.
• In mixing tank, lime and ferrous sulphate are added with effluent; blower is
used to mix properly.
• At the end of reaction, the solution is led to the flocculation tank where poly
electrolyte/ poly acrylamide is added for further reaction; blower is used here
too.
• From the flocculation tank solution is drained to Tube settler-1. Here sludge is
divided and placed in the sludge sump.
• After the operation of Tube settler-1, the solution is brought to pH correction
chamber where hydrochloric acid is mixed to control the required pH.
• After the completion of pH. correction, the solution is led to the biological
87
88
 reaction tank1

• And 2 in this tank bacteria media is used to absorb the harmful insects than
exist in effluent. A bit amount of DAP (Di Ammonium Phosphate) + Urea
(1:2) is also used here as food of bacteria.
• When the plant be stopped the mixture (DAP + urea) is to use more.
DO (Dissolved Oxygen) is to check and control in both the reaction tank.
The tested temperature is approximately 40ºC here.
• From the biological reaction tank water is again drained to Tube settler-2. Like
Tube settler-1 sludge is divided here too and placed in the sludge sump.
• After the operation/ filtration that is occurred in Tube settler 2 the cleaner
portion of the effluent is brought to the filter feed sump.
• The main action of filter feed sump is to accelerate the cleaner effluent and
make it flow to the pressure sand filter and activated carbon filter and finally
resin filtration. After the filtration the treated water is drained out in the air.
Before draining out the treated water, the BOD (Biological Oxygen Demand)
And COD (Chemical Oxygen Demand) are to check and to put it in required
range. The tested temperature of the outlet is approximately 35ºC.
• The less contaminated liquor that is obtained from different operations except
dyeing is stored in the less contaminated reservoir. It needs filtering too before
draining out.
• In other operation, liquor sludge is collected from sludge sump and makes it
inject into sludge thickening tank.
• In sludge thickening tank, separation of raw sludge is occurred by centrifuge
hydro extractor and the filtrated liquor is led to the equalization tank for
further processing.
• The centrifuge hydro extractor is used to convert the sludge into cake which is
later brought to the air by the help of hand drum. After hydro extraction, the
rest substance is drained to the equalization tank for further processing.
• The tested temperature of the equalization tank is approximately 42ºC. Here
blowers perform to maintain proper circulation of the effluent.

89
Fig. 13.1 Effluent Treatment Plant of Interstoff Apparels Ltd.

90
 Chapter-14
Conclusion
&
Recommendation

91
14.1 Conclusion:

I have completed out industrial attachment successfully by the grace of Allah. Industrial
attachment sends us to the expected destiny of practical life. The completion of the three
months’ Industrial attachment at Interstoff Apparels Limited, I have got the impression that
factory is one of the most modern export oriented knit composite complex in Bangladesh. In
the years that the factory has been operating, it has earned a fantastic reputation for its best
performance over many other export-oriented textile factory. The factory is settles with
utility to give all convenient supports to the productions for twenty- four hours. It had self-
power generator system to satisfy total power consumption of the mill. I am enough
fortunate that, I have got an opportunity of having a training in this factory. During the
training period I have received co-operation and association from the authority fully and
found all man, machine and materials on appreciable working condition. All stuffs and
officers were very sincere and devoted to their duties to achieve the company’s goal.

14.2 Recommendation:

• Due to shortage of technical persons (Textile engineer) in night shift, sometimes quality
level drops which must need to be minimize by employing technical person in night.
• During my training period I observed that every day one or more batches need for topping
which minimize production and increase cost. Action must need to be taken to minimize this
problem.
• I observed that, there is lack of understanding between the top level personal and floor
level personal which may hamper the chain of command.
• The supervisor or floor in-charge did not properly take care the program of the dyeing
machine. So sometime operator escapes some procedure which may hamper quality of the
product.
• During the transport of the fabric in the dyeing floor and also during the loading of the
m/c, fabrics are soiled for the contact with floor. This makes the fabric/part of the fabric
dirty. It may require more scouring/bleaching agent or may create stain making it faulty.
Lastly:
I am fortunate enough that we have got an opportunity to have training in this factory.
During the training period I have received enough co-operation and association from the
authority and all personnel. All stuffs and officers were very sincere and devoted their duties
to achieve their goal.
92