0% found this document useful (0 votes)
178 views

Interlining in Apparels

The document discusses different types of underlying fabrics used in garment construction including interfacing, interlining, and lining. It defines each type and discusses their purposes and properties. Interfacing is used to reinforce areas that need shaping and support like collars, pockets, and waistbands. It is usually applied between the garment and facing layers. Interlining is an extra insulating layer used for warmth in cold weather garments. Lining is the innermost layer of a garment. Proper selection and application of these underlying fabrics is important for maintaining garment shape and quality.

Uploaded by

smitharao
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
178 views

Interlining in Apparels

The document discusses different types of underlying fabrics used in garment construction including interfacing, interlining, and lining. It defines each type and discusses their purposes and properties. Interfacing is used to reinforce areas that need shaping and support like collars, pockets, and waistbands. It is usually applied between the garment and facing layers. Interlining is an extra insulating layer used for warmth in cold weather garments. Lining is the innermost layer of a garment. Proper selection and application of these underlying fabrics is important for maintaining garment shape and quality.

Uploaded by

smitharao
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 13

CHAPTER-7 INTERLINING & INTERFACING

Topics:
1. Interlining- materials, types, properties, applications
2. Interfacing- materials, types, properties, applications
3. Lining
4. Machinery requirements

The shape of a garment is enhanced and preserved by underlying fabrics including interfacing,
lining, underlining, and interlining. Other supporting methods may also be used to achieve or
maintain the desired shape.

The main, outer fabric from which a garment is made is called the body, fashion, or shell
fabric. Underlying fabrics or supporting fabrics are inside the garment; they lend support to the
garment and help maintain its shape.

The four types of underlying fabrics include:


(1) Interfacing, (2) lining, (3) interlining, and (4) underlining.

These terms are used consistently throughout this text and are defined in this chapter. However,
they are used loosely, sometimes interchangeably, in the apparel industry. For example, the
terms interlining and lining are commonly used to refer to what is (technically) interfacing. And
underlining (technically) is commonly called lining.

The presence of supporting fabrics in a garment is usually a sign of quality. Few consumers
make a purchase decision based on the underlying fabrics of a garment, but ultimate
satisfaction with the aesthetic and functional performance of any garment is affected by its
supporting fabrics. The choice of underlying fabrics depends on the design, fabric, and end use
of the garment. Waistbands that roll, collars and lapels that bubble, and knees, elbows, seats,
and pockets that bag can be avoided if the manufacturer carefully selects and correctly applies
supporting fabrics. However, the addition of underlying fabrics to a garment increases
production costs in terms of both materials and labor.

1. Interlining:
Underlying Fabrics- Most garments made from woven fabrics contain one or more underlying
fabrics. Although not visible from the outside of the garment, these materials help maintain the
garment’s shape and/or lend it other qualities such as durability and warmth. Eliminating
underlying fabrics to reduce costs results in limp garments that do not maintain their original
shape; the garments tend to wrinkle and stretch out of shape.

An insulating interlining is applied strictly for additional warmth; these interlinings may
incidentally add support and shape by their presence. Designers include interlinings in
cold-weather clothing such as coats and jackets. Any material inserted for warmth between the
garment body fabric and the lining constitutes an interlining. Interlining materials trap air,
providing insulation from the cold. A garment’s interlining cannot be seen unless the lining is
lifted. Interlinings increase both material and labor costs.

Interlining is a separate layer of fabric or fabric construction between the lining and the fashion
fabric. It adds warmth. The same lining pattern is used to cut interlining. In case of foam, fleece
or felt-type fabric that add some bulk, lining would have to be larger to accommodate interlining.
Interlining does not take the place of interfacing.

The importance of selection of material and supportive fabrics-


Selection of material is a vital part in dress making and designing. A lot of factors are to be
considered while selecting material. Some of them are:

Fabric quality: good quality material lasts longer and wears well.
Durability: durable material will improve the life of the garment.
Hand: The feel of the fabric is hand. This is largely a personal choice and to some extent
governed by the latest fashion trends.
Texture: Refers to the weight, body and drape of the fabric. Again dictated by the current
fashion trends.
Color: Dictated by the fashion trends or colors popular in a particular season.
Price: The deciding factor as it adds to the final cost of the garment.

The following factors should be kept in mind while choosing supportive fabrics:
(1) Type of fashion fabric (weight, fiber content/method of care, hand or “feel”, personal likes
and dislikes)
(2) Type and style of garment
(3) Type of lining - partial or complete; and how the lining will be attached.
2. Interfacing:
Interfacing is a supporting fabric used in almost all garments. Interfacing lends body, shape, and
reinforcement to limited areas. Collars, collar bands, cuffs, buttons and buttonholes, pockets,
waistbands, and other small design details are usually interfaced. In tailored coats and jackets,
the shoulders and lapels are interfaced; in better coats and jackets, the designer or
patternmaker also interfaces the armholes, patch pockets, sleeve hems, garment hem, and
sometimes the entire garment front.

Interfacing is usually hidden between the garment and its facing, which explains the name
“interfacing”. Rub the garment between thumb and fingers or separate the fabric plies to
determine if there is interfacing enclosed between two plies; if fusible interfacing is used, one
fabric ply will feel significantly stiffer than the other.

Interfacing is an integral part of garment. It is a layer of knitted, woven or non-woven fabric


placed between the outer garment and facing. An interfacing improves garment appearance and
preserves its shape. It also reinforces and adds body to the garment. Interfacing usually is used
for the front opening having buttons and buttonholes, collars, cuffs, waistbands and pocket
flaps. It can be sewn or fused to the garment. Fusing often stiffens the fabric, so while selecting
a fusible interfacing, use a lighter weight one than that of the fabric. For creating decorative
effects, one can use a heavier interfacing. A fusible interfacing used by tailors is the collar
fusing.

Requirement for Interfacings-


Reinforces
Stabilizes
Prevents sagging
Gives shape
Neatens edge

According to the material interfacing is classified into-


Non-woven: This is the most commonly used interfacing. This interfacing sometimes come with
grain and hence need careful placement.

Woven interfacing: This interfacing has grain- lengthwise and crosswise grain. It should be cut
on the same grain as the fabric you will be attaching it to.

Knit interfacing: This interfacing has a slight stretch. A weft insertion interfacing has an added
crosswise yarn to stabilize the stretch.

Fabric: Sometimes the same fabric as the outer fabric is used to interface. You can also use
fabric like muslin/ silk organza as interfacing. For suede/leather canvas can be used as
interfacing.
Interfacing is also classified based on the way they are applied. These are fusible and sew-up.
Then there are narrow interfacing bands which are used for collar, cuffs. Interfacings come in a
variety of weights and stiff nesses to suit different purposes. They are also available in different
colors, although typically interfacing is white. Generally, the heavier weight a fabric is the
heavier weight an interfacing it will use. Interfacing is sold at fabric stores by the yard or meter
from bolts, similar to cutting fabric. Sewing patterns specify if interfacing is needed, the weight of
interfacing that is required, and the amount. Some patterns use the same fabric as the garment
to create an interfacing, as with sheer fabrics.

Fusible interfacing- This interfacing is heat bonded to the fabric by pressing with a hot iron. This
interfacing has small dots of glue on one side of the fabric which is melted when heat is applied
to the back and the glue bonds the interfacing to the fabric. This is the most commonly used
interfacing.

Fusing Interfacing

The fusible interfacing can be woven, non-woven or knit. A knit interfacing is mostly fusible and
they have a good stretch making it suitable for a variety of purposes. They are supple as well.
The non-woven interfacing looks like paper. You should follow the grain in this type otherwise
you will get wrinkles on the fabric it is attached to. The woven fusible interfacing can be applied
in either direction or feel supple like fabric.

Sew-in interfacing:
As the name suggests this interfacing is sewn to the fabric. This is usually applied when
interfacing is needed for the main outer fabric of the garment; when the garment /fabric needs
strength and support and you know that fusible interfacing will make the fabric look wrinkly.
Instead of interfacing you can use silk organza or self fabric the same way as sew-in interfacing.

This type of interfacing is preferred when making garments with very expensive and delicate
fabrics like silk, wool etc. Also beaded and sequined fabric cannot be fused with interfacing so
sew-in interfacing is the only way.
Attaching interfacing-
● There are some general guidelines to follow when choosing and sewing interfacing.
● Select an interfacing which is of the same weight as the fabric you are adhering it to.
Interfacing should not be heavier than your fabric.
● Ensure that the interfacing is not changing the color of the fabric. If white color of the
interfacing is showing through a dark colored fabric use a black interfacing.
● Apply interfacing before sewing the seams. Interfacing is cut a tad smaller than the fabric
it is going to be attached to 1/8 inch is the standard. This is so that when you press the
interfacing to the fabric the interfacing glue will not get into your pressing surface.
● Test fusible interfacing first on a small fabric to know its suitability in terms of weight and
the support it will give.
● When interfacing for garments made of very thin fabrics (unlined) cut the outer edge of
the interfacing ¼ inch smaller than the facing cloth so that the interfacing will not be
visible outside.

Cutting interfacing-
Fusing the full fabric to the interfacing and then cutting pattern pieces or cutting fabric pattern
pieces and then interfacing- which is better? Both are viable ways but it is preferred to fuse
individual pieces. This way you can cut the interfacing smaller so that the glue will not mark
the pressing surface. But fusing the whole fabric in one go is convenient though. It is also
the best way to cut for slippery fabrics which are difficult to cut.

How to apply a fusible interfacing-


i. Fusible interfacing is rather applied to facings than to the fabric of the garment. Fusible
interfacing may cause a slightly bubbly wrinkly look to the fabric, especially after a
wash.
ii. Keep the fabric on the wrong side up. Use the hot iron to heat up the fabric by moving
the iron over the fabric.
iii. Keep the glue side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric. Press with hot
iron. You can use steam for better adherence but see that fabric would not spot with
water stains.
iv. Using a press cloth and water spray and firm pressure can give you quick and neat
results. Remember to use a dry iron later and use it to finish the process. Cool the
pieces before moving or they may fall apart.
v. The sew-in interfacing is cut the same size as the piece to be backed, it is either
hand/machine basted or simply caught in the seams as the garment is constructed.
When machine/hand basting pin the sew-in interfacing to the wrong side of fabric and
stitch with a ½ inch seam allowance. Trim at the corners if you feel it will lessen the
bulkiness at the seams. The problem with sew-in interfacing is that if you interface
large areas they will hang inside without any support/binding.

Base cloths, resins, coating systems, machinery and equipment, control of quality. Base cloth
influences handle & bulk, shape retention, shrinkage control, crease recovery, appearance in
wear, appearance after dry cleaning & washing, durability. It is an interlining material on which
thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed. They are produced from natural or synthetic
fibers in woven, knitted or non-woven forms and each has a specific application.

Resins become the sole bonding agents between the top cloth & interlining when subjected to
heat and pressure. Coating system is the process whereby the thermoplastic resin is applied to
substrate material.

Some factors which influence fusing quality are:

● Temperature- The applied heat generated by machine can be checked by a simple practical
method involving use of thermal test papers. They are narrow strips of paper calibrated in
increments of 2 degrees, which react to temperature by changing the color of the segment
with matching temperature rating.
● Time- Flat bed has a mechanical timer which can be verified by a stopwatch. This time
element for a continuous machine is checked by measuring the conveyor belt speed with a
tachometer.
● Pressure- It is necessary to apply equal pressure all over the component so that:
An intimate contact is affected between interlining and top cloth
Heat transfer is optimum

There is controlled and even penetration of resin points into fibers of top cloth-
● Buckram is the most commonly used interfacing.
● Non woven interfacings used for soft collars
● Fusible interfacings which are ironed on are easy to handle
● Hair canvas which is heavy cotton with hair added in weave
● Organdie can be used as interfacing for lightweight fabrics such as net and lace
● Nylon net is washable and retains most of its crispiness, useful for children's clothes. It
may be attached only inside the hem fold to hold out flare in the skirt.

3. Lining:
Lining is nearly a replica of the garment, constructed of lightweight fabric and sewn inside the
garment with seam allowances reversed to provide a finished inside appearance. A lining
covers the garment’s seam allowances, making the inside attractive when the garment is taken
off makes seam finishes minimal or unnecessary, because seam allowances are not exposed
makes the garment more comfortable to wear.

The lining fabric acts as a buffer between the wearer’s skin and the garment body fabric, seam
allowances, and other inner construction details of the garment, especially important when the
garment is made of a rough or scratchy fabric aids the wearer in slipping the garment on and off
extends the life of the garment by absorbing some of the stress, strain, and abrasion of wear
provides extra body, shape, and support, making the garment look smoother and less apt to
wrinkle.

The lining helps to prevent the garment from stretching out of shape, especially in stress areas
such as elbows or knees, provides opacity, an advantage for garments with sheer body fabrics
can provide extra warmth, which may or may not be an advantage, depending on the weather.

In general, garments with full linings are considered higher quality than those without. A fully
lined garment requires nearly twice as much fabric and labor as an unlined garment, which
increases manufacturing costs significantly.

Manufacturers use partial linings in some garments; a partial lining extends only through the
areas that require shaping and reinforcement rather than throughout the entire garment. Partial
linings are common from the shoulder to the chest (called a 3/8 lining) in the back of tailored
jackets and from the waist to below the knees in slacks.

Partially Lined Jacket


Although partial linings cost less than full linings, they do not lower quality if they extend through
the necessary areas. In fact, a partial lining may be more desirable than a full lining in clothing
such as summer suits and sports jackets, because partial linings are cooler to wear and lighter
in weight than full ones.
High-quality men’s jackets with a 3/8 lining usually have booked seams and otherwise
impeccable inner construction. Occasionally, partially lined garments are of higher quality than
similar, fully lined garments, if the patternmaker used the lining in the fully lined garment to
compensate for a low-quality fashion fabric and poor inner construction.

Detachable linings are installed so they can be zipped or buttoned in and out of garments, for
example, all-weather coats and jackets. They make garments versatile for wearing in different
kinds of weather but add significantly to cost because the main garment inner construction must
be finished to with stand being worn without the lining and a method for attachment must be
included.

Single garment pieces such as pockets, yokes, or bibs may be lined for added strength or
support. Or a small piece of lining may be used in areas subject to abrasion, such as the inner
thigh area of pants. This not only protects the fashion fabric from abrasion but improves the
wearer’s comfort, especially if the garment is made of a scratchy fabric.

Underlining involves lining each major piece of the garment individually. Underlining a garment
is less costly than lining it because underlining requires extra fabric but little additional labor
(except in cutting).

Underlining performs many, but not all, of the functions of lining. Like lining, an underlining
provides body, strength, and support to the garment, making it look smooth and preventing it
from sagging or stretching. In fact, underlining provides even greater support and body than
lining since each piece of the garment is individually supported.

Underlining provides opacity, preventing sheer or translucent fabrics from being seen through.
Limp, unstable fabrics often require underlining, especially in stress areas or for construction
details that demand extra body.

In some instances, underlining is preferable to lining. Underlining, unlike lining, prevents the
seam allowances and other construction details from showing through to the outside of
garments made of sheer or translucent fabrics such as lace. Therefore, under-linings, rather
than linings, are often used in wedding and other formal gowns made of these fabrics.
Under-linings are also used in areas prone to stretching, such as seats, knees, and elbows,
where they are superior to linings in preventing stretch. Remember, an underlined garment has
all seam allowances and other construction details exposed on the inside, whereas in a lined
garment, inside details are covered by the lining.

Compared to lining, some disadvantages of underlining are that it does not protect the skin from
irritation by seam allowances of the garment body fabric does not make the garment more
attractive on the inside does not make the garment easy to slip on and off does not prevent
seam allowances from raveling.

Supporting devices are incorporated into garments to achieve or maintain the desired shape.
Examples of devices that may support the shape of the garment and provide the fashion correct
silhouette include belts (although these may be strictly decorative), shoulder pads, chest pieces,
sleeve heads, bridles and other seam stays, collar stays, bra cups, boning, hoops, bustles,
horsehair braid, and weights. All add to material and labor costs.

Garments made from sheer/lightweight fabrics require a lining material. It is a duplicate of the
outer garment which is finished separately and attached to the outer fabric, wrong side to wrong
side. The function of lining is:
• To add more body to the outer garment
• Supports the outer garment
• Adds to the durability of the garment
• Gives a better drape to the garment
• Can also give an attractive inner finish to the outer garment
• Can help eliminate static in the outer garment. Ex: Polyester dresses are generally lined to
prevent static build up.

Garments can be either fully lined or partially lined, completely or partially attached to the
garment. Linings will lengthen the life of the garment. It can also eliminate the need for
undergarments like a slip in a dress or skirt. A separate seam finish is generally not given to the
outer garment when it is lined.

The lining fabric should be durable, opaque, color fast to perspiration and use the same care
method as the fashion fabric. Lining should match with the color of the outer fabric. The surface
and texture of lining should be smooth to permit the garment to be taken on and off the body
easily. Lining should be absorbent as well, as it comes in direct contact with the skin. The lining
fabric should be preshrunk before using for garment construction. Lining material should be of
the same weight or lighter in weight than the outer fabric.

Various fabrics suitable for lining are 2 x1, voile, cambric, poplin, satin, crepe. The choice of
lining material depends on the type of outer fabric. Lightweight linings are suitable for skirts,
coats, suit jackets. Medium weight linings are to be used for evening dresses or party wear.

Underlining is a supportive lining fabric that is attached to a major garment piece. Ex: jacket
front, jacket back, sleeve, etc. It prevents bagginess and pulling along the seam lines. The
underlining and fashion fabric function together as one piece throughout the garment
construction process. The areas to be underlined in a garment depend on the garment design,
fashion fabric and the chief function of the underlining. Purpose of underlining is-
• Supports and gives shape to the fashion fabric
• Prevents sagging and stretching
• Adds crease resistance
• Provides evenness of color for a sheer outer fabric
• Helps create decorative fashion details

An underlining cannot replace interfacing in a garment. A combination of underlining and lining


could be used in a garment. Underlining should be preshrunk and cut on grain or the same grain
as that of the outer fabric.

5. Machinery requirements: There are various types of fusing types of equipment. Some of them are
specialized fusing presses, flatbed fusing press, high-frequency fusing, hand iron, steam press,
continuous fusing systems. The equipment used for fusing can be divided into-

Specialized fusing presses- A number of different types of fusing press have been developed over the
years, providing control of the heat and pressure applied to the garment part and providing for
fusing to take place on flat sections of garments that have not yet been sewn. In many
companies, such fusing presses are cited in the cutting room and the fusing operation takes
place before transferring the garments to the sewing room. Fusing presses vary in the way they
operate and these differences affect both the quality of the fusing and productivity of the
operation.
Continuous fusing systems-These systems operate by passing the garment part, with its interlining
placed on it, past a heat source and, either simultaneously or subsequently, applying pressure.
Heat is provided in one of three ways:
With direct heating the conveyor belt carries the components to be fused into direct contact with a
heated surface, either a drum or curved plates.

With indirect heating, the components are carried through a heated chamber.

With low temperature, gradient heating, the components are carried through a pre-heat zone. Heating is
either direct or indirect. With this approach, the temperature reached the glue line is only just
above that required to make the resin a viscous fluid and in some cases, fusing takes place
satisfactorily with glue line temperature of only 1200c. This reduces the possibility of heat
shrinkage in the outer fabric and is a feature of some of the most recent fusing presses.

i. High-frequency fusing- In the fusing press described so far, heat has been provided by electric heating
elements. This limits the number of the thickness of fabric which can be fused at once because
of the time taken for the heat to transfer through the fabric to the resin. If multiple layers of fabric
and interlining could be stacked up and fused simultaneously, productivity might be increased.
Over a number of years, attempts have been made to do this by generating heat by means of
high-frequency energy, in the same way as in a microwave cooker.

ii. Hand iron- Only those interlinings which can be fused at relatively low temperatures, low pressured
and in relatively short times are at all suitable for fusing by hand iron. There are a number of
difficulties. The operator cannot know the temperature at the glue line and cannot apply pressure
uniformly. The operator estimates the time subsequently. Only small parts can be fused with any
degree of success, and then only by pressing the iron for a fixed time onto the fusible, covering
the area step by step and using steam to help the heat transfer.

iii. Steam press- In this case, fusing takes place on presses of the type used for intermediate and final
pressing of made up garments. The temperature at the glue line is achieved by steam from the
head of the press. The temperature reached depends on the steam pressure and its cladding.
Pressure is provided mechanically or pneumatically by closing the press head on the buck. The
vacuum in the lower part of the press, or buck, assists rapid cooling.

Flat bed press- It is an all purpose built fusing machine. It consists of padded top and bottom bucks with
heated elements in one or both the bucks. Bottom buck is static, with top buck raised or lowered
to open or close the press. It can have single or double trays which horizontally move to feed the
work into and extract it from the machine. Carousel press is one of its types.

Continuous fusing- It transports the assembly for fusing through all the processes on a powered
conveyor belt. Different Conveyor belt systems generally used are- End to end feed, Return
feed. It is required for fusing of the trousers and skirt waistbands and other narrow components.
Requirements for Perfect Fusing Equipment-
a. Controlled heat and pressure application according to the material
By a precise and effective heating system
By a sensitive and exact pressure system
By a material friendly transport system
b. Reliability and safe operation
c. By a strong machine design
d. By the safe function of all machine components
e. By easy maintenance and service
f. Productivity
g. By using the correct working width
h. By sufficient machine capacity
i. By well-designed workstations
j. By loading aids for soft fabrics
k. By modular stackers

Methods of fusing- The simplest and safest of all is ‘single fusing’ in which a single piece of
interlining, with resin side laid down, is placed over a single piece of fabric with face side laid
down. Some variations are as follows-
a. Reverse fusing- In this method, the outer fabric lies on top of the fusible. On a flatbed press
with elements only in the top layer, it Is necessary to adjust temperature settings.
b. Sandwich fusing- This is effectively carried out on a horizontal continuous fusing press where
heat is applied from both sides, above and below. Two pairs of components, forming two
laminates, are fused together, with the two outer fabrics on the outside of the sandwich and
the two interlinings on the inside.
c. Double fusing- This is the fusing of two sorts of interlining to the outer fabric in a single
operation. In creation of a satisfactory one-piece collar with a definite break-line, fusible
interlinings play a very important part. Two different constructions are in common use, both
requiring two thicknesses of interlining to be fused to the top collar. It is most commonly used
in shirt’s collars and men’s jackets.
SOLVE THE FOLLOWING QUESTIONS:
1. What are the methods of fusing?
2. Describe the machinery used for fusing in manufacturing units.
3. Write a brief note on underlining.
4. Define interlining, interfacing, and lining.
5. Describe in details factors influencing quality of fusible interfacing.
6. List down types of interfacing materials.

You might also like