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Kenmo?e
SEWING MACHINE MODEL 17921

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Sears, Roebuck and Co.

Dear Homemaker:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine.

Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a
moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions
on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments,

cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing
results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions
beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always

available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if
you have questions about your machine, atways mention the model
number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number

and serial number of this appliance.
The model number and serial number are located
on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3
of this booklet.

Model No. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.
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YOUR SEWING PLACE IS ALWAYS READY WITH

SEARS KENMORE SEWING FURNITURE

Sewing machine cabinet is available at your

nearest Sears retail store or through our
general catalog. Whenever you're ready to
sew, so is your sewing plaCe, Another
option.., buy a Carrying Case... then your
Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored
anywhere.
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TABLE OFCONTENTS
= KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Machine identification .............................................. 2- 3
Setting up your machine ........................................... 4- 5
Foot control, Light/power switch, Electronic needle
control, Maximum speed control, Accessory box
Parts list................................................................ 6- 7
Spool pins and caps ................................................... 8
Converting to free-arm sewing ...................................... 8
Winding the bobbin .................................................... 9
Threading the bobbin case ........................................... 10
Picking up bobbin thread ............................................. 12
Threading top thread .................................................. 11
Picking up bobbin thread ............................................. 12
CONTROLS
Thread _ension control ................................................ 13
Stitch selector and indicator, Stitch width control.............. 14
Stitch length control, Reverse stitch lever, Stitch modifier ... 15
Buttonhole control, Pressure regulator............................ 16
Seam guides, Presser foct lever .................................... 17
ACCESSORIES
Needles, Placement of needle....................................... 18
Needle, thread and fabric chart, Presserfeet .................... 19
Even feed foot, Adjustable holder .................................. 20
Edgestitcher, Quilting guide ......................................... 21
Needle plates, Feed cover plate ..................................... 22
CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle ..................................... 23
Oiling ....................................... . ........................ 24 - 25
Changing light bulb .................................................... 25
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS .............. 26- 27
. STARTING TO SEW ................................................. 28
Machine setting chart ................................................. 29
Straight stitching ................................................. 29 - 34
Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner, Removing
fabric, Top-stitching, darning, Temporary sewing by
machine, Zipper application-cording, Narrow hemming,
Quilting
Zigzag stitching .......................... _........................ 35 - 38
Overcasting, Satin stitching, Bar tacking, Appliqueing,
Embroidery, Monogramming, Button sewing
Mending and overcast stitching..................................... 39
Box stitch ................................................................ 40
Blind hemming ..................................................... 41 - 42
Scallop stitch ............................................................ 43
Stretch stitches ................................................... 44 - 47
Adjusting stitch length, Adjusting stitch balance,
Straight stretch stitch, Rick-rack stretch, Feather stretch,
Smocking stretch, Elastic stretch, Overcast stretch,
Paris point stretch
Getting the most from fabrics that give ...................... 48 - 49
Hints on sewing different fabrics ................................... 49
Buttonhole making ............................................... 50 - 58
Decorative Embroidery designs......... '....................... 59- 60
WARRANTY ........... ;.......................... Inside back cover
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1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

IDENTIFICATION CHART

Top thread tension control Foldaway carrying handle Built-in buttonhole control
Bobbin winder tension disc
Bobbin winder shaft
\

Bobbin winder latch

Slotted take-up levew

Threading channel Stitch width dial

Face cover • i,?.

Stitch indicator

Check spring Stitch selector

Thread guide__
Reverse stitch lever
Needle clamp screw ....

Presser foot Stitch length dial

Needle plate Needle up/down switch

, Feed dogs Basting switch

Bobbin cover plate.

Maximum speed control
Bobbin window

Accessory box
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Telescoping spool pin _ ,, ,,.............. Rear thread guide
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Swing-away spool pin
Hand wheel/ _ _'_nm_'-
Presser foot lever
push-pull clutch

Presser foot lock

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Thread cutter

Nomenclature
Foot control
Light/power swit_
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Electric cord rece;

box
-._----- Buttonholer! accessory
Foot control
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Foot pedal

Cord receptacle
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Pedal lock knob

Machine plug

Power-line plug

Foot control plug

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SETTING UP YOUR MACHINE

. Install your Kenrnore sewing machine in a

Kenmore cabinet, case or set the machine
on a sturdy flat surface.
. Your Kenmore sewing machine has been
thoroughly oiled at the factory. Be sure to
wipe off the needle plate area and bed
plate carefully before sewing a garment.
It is wise to practice on a scrap of fabric
so any surplus oil is absorbed.
. FOOT CONTROL
Your machine is supplied with an
electronic foot control which enables you
to sew very slowly. Even at low speed you
have extra power for the needle to
Fig. 1 penetrate through several thicknesses of
fabric. Faster speeds are also easily
controlled.

1. Pull out the foot control from its

storage position under the free arm.
(Fig. 1)
2. Slide pedal lock knob to the right and
the foot pedal will pop up to its
operating position. Push foot control
plug into the cord receptacle on the
foot control. (Fig. 2)
3. Push machine plug into the cord
receptacle at the rear side of the
machine. Then connect power-line
plug into any 110-120 volt A.C. wall
outlet. (Fig. 2)
. LIGHT/POWER SWITCH
Light/power Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. This
same switch controls the machine power,
sewing light and indicator lights on the
Foot stitch indicator panel and electronic
Pedal Iock._nob pedal needle control. If you are interrupted or
It stop sewing, turn off the switch.
Fig. 2

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5. ELECTRONIC NEEDLE CONTROL

Your machine is electronically controlled
to stop with the needle in the up position Electronic needle
every time you remove pressure from foot control
control.
NEEDLE UP/DOWN SWITCH
i- II
.... B ''

If you wish the machine to stop with the

needle in the down position (as in turning
a corner), push the left switch. A red light
will appear showing you that the machine I
is so set. To return to the Needle Up electronic
position push the left switch again and
when the light disappears, machine is
again set to stop with the needle in an up
position each time.
BASTING SWITCH
Tap the foot control with the right switch
I ' DiD
pushed and lighted and the machine will
take one stitch only and stop with needle
in the up position. This feature provides I 0 0 0
an electronically controlled basting or
tacking to take the chore out of hand .
basting. _" Decrease Increase
° MAXIMUM SPEED CONTROL Maximum speed
You may want to vary the speed of the control
machine, sewing slowly in special tight
places or if you are a new seamstress.
This control can be moved to the left to
slow the sewing of the machine. To
increase to the maximum speed, slide the
control to the right.

. ACCESSORY BOX
Accessory box is opened by lifting the lid
up and swinging it toward you as shown.
Inside you will find many of the acces-
sories that you use each time you sew.
The box may be fully removed from the
machine to convert it for free arm
stitching. See page 8.

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PARTS LIST (Use only genuine Kenmore replacement parts and accessories.)

All parts listed herein may be ordered from 3. MODEL NUMBER shown on the nomen-
any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or service ctature plate. (See page 3 for location.)
center. 4. NAME OF ITEM
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, If the parts you need are not stocked locally,
ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFOR- your order will be electronically transmitted
MATION: to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center
1. PART NUMBER for expedited handling.
2. PART DESCRIPTION

PRESSER FEET

Straight Stitch Standard Zigzag Satin Stitch

3
Plastic Satin "Q FOOT"
(No. 45171) (No. 44985) (No. 44988) Stitch (No. 43776) (No. 6843)

"Q SET" Zipper Foot Blind Hem Foot Overcasting * Even Feed Foot
(No. 6858) (No. 6759) (No. 6886) (No. 35094) (No. 6888)

* Included in the buttonholer box

BUTTONHOLE ACCESSORIES

Built-in Buttonhole Guide Buttonhole Guideplate B uttohole Templates

Foot (No. 43840) (No. 58232) No. 1 Part45195
No. 2 Part 45196
NO. 3 Part 45197
No. 4 Part 45198
No. 5 Part 45199

Buttonhole Cover Buttonhole Foot Buttonhole Opener

Plate (No. 58210) (No. 41040) (No. 6830)

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OTHER VITAL ITEMS

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Zigzag Straight Stitch Feed Cover 2 Spool Pin Caps Nylon Disc Adjustable
Needleplate Needleplate Plate Large - No. 55503 (No. 2273) Holder
(No. 57860) (No. 57861 ) (No. 43166) Small -- No. 53871 (No. 29308)

Narrow Hemmer Edge Stitcher Quilting Guide Lint Brush large Screw Driver
( No. 29396) (No. 29306) (No. 351051 (No. 35848) (No. 55501)
, Small Screw Driver
(No. 55500)
Magnetized
Bobbin Winder Mini Screw Driver
Rubber Ring
(No. 1913)
(No. 55499)

Bobbin Winder Light Bulb Foot Control Foot Control Cord

Tension Disc (No. 6797) (No. 57544) (No. 57543)
(No. 39619)
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES

Needle Size Part No.

No. 9 6550
No. 11 6551
No. 14 6552
No. 16 6553 Bobbin Box with
No. 18 6554 10 Metal Bobbins
Packet of needles (No. 6862)
"Q NEEDLE" 6746
with your machine Plastic Bobbins
Double Needle 6749
includes a variety of sizes. (No. 6868)
Replacement needles
come in packages
of one size only.

Ruffler/Pleater Hinged Zipper Needle Threader

(No. 6895) Foot (No. 6794) (No. 43780)

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SPOOL PINS AND CAPS

Telescoping spool pin

Nylon Spool cap

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Swing the Primary Spool Pin into position at A second telescoping spool pin is provided
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the back of the machine as shown above. for bobbin winding and for a second thread
Place a spool of thread on the pin and place when sewing with a double needle. Pull it out
the appropriate size spool cap over the and place a nylon disc over it when using.
thread.
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CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING

This machine can be used either as a flatbed By removing the accessory box, the machine
or as a freearm model. With the accessory converts into a slim freearm model for sewing
box in place, the machine is a flatbed model children's clothes, cuffs, trouser legs,
with a large working surface, which slopes armholes and other awkward places.
gently towards you to help the smooth flow
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of fabric.
all

. To remove the accessory box, take it 2. To replace, slide the accessory box back
firmly with your left hand and lift it up into place until it clicks.
until it clicks. Your machine is then ready
for free arm sewing.

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WINDING THE BOBBIN

® ®
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. Place thread on Telescoping Spool Pin. .

Push Bobbin Winder Latch against bobbin
Draw thread through Rear Thread Guide until it clicks. Then pull Hand Wheel away
and Bobbin Winder Tension Disc as from machine to disengage clutch (see
indicated. diagram below). Hold end of thread
coming from bobbin (see above) and step
. Pull end of thread through any hole in
on foot control. After several rotations of
bobbin; place bobbin on Bobbin Winder
bobbin release thread.
Shaft with end of thread coming from top
of bobbin as shown above.
. When bobbin is full, winding stops
automatically. Push in Hand Wheel.
Remove bobbin from shaft and trim
thread end.

Treat Hand Wheel as a "'clutch"

It controls the needle mechanism so that
when pulled out (disengaged), the rest of
the machirLe will not operate while the
Pull out to
bobbin is being wound.
isengage
For best stitching results use clear plastic
Push in lightweight bobbins when stitching at high
to engage speed with widest and longest stitch
setting.

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THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE

® ®

1. Remove accessory box. 5. Pull thread through slot (B) and leave
about 4 inches of thread.
2. Remove bobbin cover plate by lifting up
the front. 6. Replace bobbin cover plate allowing
thread to emerge through slot in needle
3. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making plate.
sure bobbin rotates counter clockwise.

4. Pull thread through slot (A) and then to

the left.

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THREADING TOP THREAD

Fig. 1

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Fig. 2 Fig. 3

, Raise slotted take-up lever to its highest , Draw thread down and around check
position. spring (C) and up through slotted take-up
lever (D). (Fig. 2)
Place thread spool onto spool pin. Place
appropriate spool cap over the spool of . Draw thread down into thread guides (E)
thread. and (F). Thread needle from front to back
as shown in Fig. 3.
Draw thread through rear thread guide
(A) and into threading channel (B) toward
you. (Fig. 1)

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PICKING UP BOBBIN THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever.

Hold needle thread loosely in left hand
and push,!_eedle up/down switch two
times or rotate hand wheel toward you
one complete turn.

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper

® thread.

. Pull both threads under and to the back

® of the presser foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches
of thread clear.

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If yOu can not pick up bottom thread by

following above steps, then check:
1. Is needle threaded ?
2. Is thread tangled around needle ?
3, Is bobbin case threaded correctly with
thread going through slots A and B as
shown on page 10, Fig. 4 and 5 ?
4. Is there 4 inches of thread coming from
bobbin case and through slot of needle
plate as shown on page 10, Fig. 6 7
5. Is thread from bobbin case tangled ?

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CONTROLS
THREAD TENSION CONTROL

STRAIGHT STITCHING
STRAIGHT STITCH
The good looking appearance of your straight JUST RIGHT
stitching is, mainly determined by the

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balanced tension of the top thread and
bobbin thread. The tension is well balanced
when the two threads lock in the middle of
the layers of fabric when straight stitching.

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You can achieve balanced tension by TOP STITCH
TOO TIGHT
regulating the Top Thread Tension Control.
If the upper thread appears to be too tight,
dial left (lower numbers) to decrease tension.
If the upper thread is too loose, dial right
(higher numbers) to increase tension.
For most fabrics the tension control shuld be -- =-_...._ O ._...._ ÷
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set in the white zone between 3 and 5.

ZIGZAG STITCHING
Always practice stitching on two layers of the
fabric you will be using. Decrease tension
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Make sure that you are using the right size

and type of needle for the fabric. See chart TOP STITCH
page 19. TOO LOOSE
Choose a thread of good quality and type for
your fabric. See chart page 19.
Remember--the wider the zigzag setting,
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the more chance for puckering. Reduce the

top tension, if puckering occurs.
The top thread will be visible on the bottom
to varying degrees depending on the thread,
fabric, type of stitch being used and speed of
all

sewing.
Increase tension
The bobbin thread should never be visible on
the top of the fabric.

BOBBIN TENSION
The bobbin tension has been correctly set at
the factory, so you do not need to adjust it.

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STITCH SELECTOR AND

INDICATOR

1. To select a stitch, be sure needle is out of

Stitch m .....
fabric at its highest position. Push the
indic&toa == ANVV_
Stitch stitch selector in and out to release the
selector
mechanism.
2. Then turn the selector to left or right until
alp ._--,_=,;'.o-=,. the required stitch is indicated by the red
,_ V-V-V-V" light on the indicator panet.
=.t ,,.t""%_ I1:
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...... iJ _ __
=. (--,,_'_ eleclrorr_c

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STITCH WIDTH CONTROL

The width of all the stitches produced on this

machine, with the obvious exception of
straight stitch, can be made narrower or
wider by adjusting the stitch width control.

o To decrease or increase the width of a stitch,

turn the stitch width control dial from 0- 4.
The higher the number the wider the stitch.

Recommended setting ranges are indicated

and color-coded with patterns on the stitch
indicator panel.

When sewing with a double needle, do not

use a setting above 2, as indicated on the
dial.

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STITCH LENGTH CONTROL

The stitch length control regulates the length

Stitch length
of the stitch_you select. THE HIGHER-THE
control
NUMBER-THE SHORTER THE STITCH.
Turn only the, outer rim of this control to set
the stitch length.

The number on stitch length control indicates

the approximate number of stitches per inch.
The stitch setting you use will be determined
by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing.

• A longer stitch setting should be used for

thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The
middle range of the control is the 12 stitch per
inch range which is the most commonly
used. Reverse stitch
lever
Recommended stitch length settings are
indicated in three colors. The colors are
color-coded with the stitches on the indicator
panel.

The red marking ==_ between 0 and 1 is the

setting used for the shortest stitches such as
in satin stitching.

Stitch modifier
REVERSE STITCH LEVER

It is best to begin and end seams with a few

stitches taken in reverse. This is called back
tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the
seams firmly and prevents raveling.

When reverse stitching is needed, push

down the lever and hold there during sewing.
The fabric will immediately start feeding
backwards and seam will be fastened.

STITCH MODIFIER

When using stretch stitches and making

buttonholes, you may need to make use of
the stitch modifier. This regulates the
movement of the fabric backwards and
forwards to produce perfect stitches on fine
or thick fabrics.

The stitch modifier should be in neutral

notched position for most materials.

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BUTTONHOLE CONTROL

This control is used in making bar tacked

buttonholes with two control settings.
Detailed instructions are given on page 51.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Presser foot pressure is vital for straight

seams, uniform stitch length, even handling
of both layers of fabric. To adjust pressure;
use Pressure Regulator which is situated
inside the face cover. Then to increase
pressure, turn the dial clockwise (or vice
versa). Just remember.., for lightweight
fabric, more pressure; for heavy fabric, less
pressure.

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SEAM GUIDES

Seam guides are printed on needle plate, at

both sides of needle, to help you line up the
fabric and keep it straight. The standard
seam width is 5/8". So these lines are I
emphasized, easy to follow.
Also the cross iines are "cornering guides" to
help when turning a square corner 5/8" from
the fabric edge. (For details on cornering, see
page 30.)

Cornering Guide

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

Presser foot lever has a two position lift.

In order to place heavy fabric under the t
presser foot or to change the presser foot
raise the presser foot lever to its maximum
upward position as shown.

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ACCESSORIES

NEEDLES
I I II I
Use KENMORE needles. The size of the
needle should conform with the size of the
thread and both should be suitable to the
fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded by
size for your convenience (See chart on

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next page).
Never use a bent needle or one with a dull
point.

The exact length of your needle is shown at

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left. Be sure you never use one in your
machine that is not this exact length.
You will find among your accessories a
"Q._F'FI)LF:",. with blue shank. This special
needle is to be used when sewing knits and
certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If you
experience skipped stitches in any of your
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sewing, use "'o ._F:F:I)i.F;",.and "O FOOT",..
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PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by

turning the hand wheel toward you. Loosen
the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle
with the flat side away from you, slip the
needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far
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as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw

with small screwdriver provided in the
accessory box.

Flat
all

side
away
from
you

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NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART

NEEDLE RECOMMENDED
FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH
COLOR SETTING

LIGHTWEIGHT: Batiste. Dimity, 9- BROWN Polyester Core/C otton Wrap 12 stitches

Chiffon. Silks, Synthetic Jerseys. or Fine Mercerized Cotton
Fine Lace. Organza. Crepe, per inch
It-ORANGE Silk A
Taffeta. Voile, Organdy

MEDIUMWEIGHT: Cotton,
[" Cotton Blends. Percale. Gingham. Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap 10 to 12 stitches
! Shantung, Pique. Seersucker. 14-RED 50 Mercerized Cotton
!' Satin. Knits. Vinyl. Suitings. per inch
Silk A
Linen, Wool Crepe. Leather

MEDIUM HEAVYWEIGHT: 14-RED Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Corduroy, Denim. Wool. 50 Mercerized Cotton 8 to 10 stitches
or
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Mercerized Heavy- Duty per inch
16-PURPLE Silk A
Gabardine. Velvets, Leather

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

HEAVYWEIGHT: Coatings,
Upholstery. Cotton Duck. 18-GREEN Heavy-Duty Mercerized Cotton 8 stitches
Heavy Twills. Canvas Polyester Synthetic per inch
Silk A
16-PURPLE
Decorative top-stitching on all 18- GREEN 6 stitches
Buttonhole Twist
types of fabric or per inch
Q-BLUE

Synthetic Knits and Stretch: Q-BLUE 10 for Regular

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon
with.
Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap or
Tricot, Jersey, Stretcn Terry. 50 Mercerized Cotton 6 for Stretch
"'Q FOOT ....
Spandex, Cire Tricot Stitches

PRESSER FEET r-

To change presser feet, simply drop Presser

Foot Lock and slip foot away from the
Presser Bar. Raise Presser Foot Lever beyond
the normal up position and place new foot on
presser bar. To lock foot securely, raise
presser foot lock as high as possible.

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EVEN FEED FOOT

Presser bar The even feed foot moves top and bottom
Presser foot material together evenly and enables you to
Needle
clamp sew hard-to-sew fabrics without sliding nor
arm
Presser foot slipping and with perfect matching. Use it for
screw sewing leather, ultra suede TM,shiny fabrics
Presser bar. Screw (A) (vinyls, patents and satins), bonded fabrics,
clamp pile fabrics and matching stripes, plaids and
patterns. It is not recommended for use when
stretch stitching.

To attach the even feed foot;

1. Raise needle to its highest position.
2. Raise presser bar to its highest position
Fig. 1 and guide the even feed foot into position
from rear of machine.
3. Attach presser bar clamp to presser bar
and lift presser foot lock as high as it will
go to hold the foot securely.
4. Attach screw (A) provided with the foot
to needle clamp through fork arm and
tighten it.
Note: Attach the foot in exact order of steps
as written.

IMPORTANT:
To prevent friction and wear, put a drop of oil
at each point indicated by arrows in Fig. 2
and set pressure regulator at 2 or 3 before
using this foot.
Fig. 2 Oil after 4 or 5 times usage. Be sure to remove
excess oil by wiping foot thoroughly and sewing
on a scrap of fabric.

ADJUSTALBLE HOLDER

Replace the regular presser foot with the

adjustable holder when using narrow hemmer
and edge stitcher attachment.
Narrow
Loosen thumb screw and press it forward.
hemmer
Insert the opposite end into the large hole of
Thuml the attachment. Slide the attachment to the
screw left as far as possible. Adjust as necessary to
the correct position for stitching. Tighten the
thumb screw securely.

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EDGESTITCHER

This one attachment helps you join fabric

edges ...insert lace ...do seam piping ...
simplifies blind hemming as well as "French'"
seams. Slots numbered 1 to 5 serve as
sewing guides:
Slot 1 will guide fabric to be joined to lace.
All you have to do is place the lace in slot 2.
Slot 4 will guide piping being joined to fabric 4

edges. Place the fabric in slots 2 or 3.

Slot 5 may be used as a guide when sewing
French seams which are stitched twice, once
on right side and once on other side. This is
the classic seam for sheers.
Use slots 1 and 3 to guide fabric with ease
during blind hemming.

QUILTING GUIDE
This attachment comes in handy whenever
you want several rows of stitches an equal
distance apart--for garment trim as well as
quilts. It consists of a curved prong attached
to a long bar on a holder. The prong is shifted
back and forth on the holder to establish the
distance between rows of stitches.

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NEEDLE PLATES

You are provided with two needle plates:

A. Needle plate with wide oval hole for all
, ;_, !luu!!._ fl, _., I!UUi,,_ II zigzag stitching.
B. Needle plate with round hole for regular
A B straight stitching and straight stretch
sewing.
Fig. 1

CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE

° Raise needle to its highest position and

raise presser foot.
, Remove accessory box and bobbin cover
plate.
3. Remove needle plate by placing thumb
under edge of plate and lifting up and out.
(See Fig. 2)
, Place other needle plate making sure
bobbin case is in proper position as
shown in Fig. 3 by turning it counter-
@ @ clockwise until it hits bobbin case
stopper. Push down the needle plate with
both hands to lock.
5. Replace bobbin cover plate.

IMPORTANT:

Don't turn hand wheel while needle plate is

Bobbin case Bobbin case stopper Fig. 3 removed, or needle may hit bobbin case and
cause needle damage.
Don't touch screws on the bobbin case
I stopper.

FEED COVER PLATE

There are a few times when you want to

control the feeding of the fabric yourself.
Raise needle to its highest position and raise
presser foot. Place feed cover plate over
needle plate aligning two pins of feed cover
plate with holes of needle plate. You may
then determine the movement of the fabric
yourself.

22
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CARING FOR THE MACHINE

CLEANING THE FEED DOGS
WITH A BRUSH

To insure the best possible operation of your

machine, it is necessary to keep the essential
parts clean at all times.

m
dogs
Remove bobbin cover plate and needle plate.
Using a small brush, remove the lint that
Shuttle
accumulates in and around the feed dogs and
shuttle area.

CLEANING AND
SHU'FrLE AREA
OILING

On rare occasions, you may want to clean the

shuttle area. Just follow these simple steps.
.co
es
1. Remove bobbin case by lifting it out from
left side.
. Clean the shuttle with small brush and put
a drop of oil to the points indicated by
arrows. Don't over-oil. (Reminder: don't
uid

use household oil.., use sewing machine

oil.)
®
k.

@
-g
all

REPLACING BOBBIN CASE

1. Insert bobbin case into shuttle from left

side and turn it counter-clockwise until it ° , n 0n o !
hits bobbin case stopper.
2. Replace needle plate in position.
NOTE: Don't touch screws on the bobbin
!o oil
case stopper.
Oil and lint brush No. 6889 is available
at most Sears retail stores and
catalog.
lobbin case stopper

23
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OIUNG UNDER TOP COVER

PLATE

Remove top cover plate by loosening bNO top

"' A B ii.i screws (A and B) as shown at left. Then
'; : "Lz': ! :I
place one or two drops of Kenmore sewing
machine oil at each point.
I " t' "_ L_L.."_:
i /
...................... -'--'LZ----'-'_'..__'_'_LL.J

OILING UNDERSIDE
................................... '.'.- _ - _ _" _ --r':'.:'_.7 -~ -.._;_;.

::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: Tilt back machine and remove bottom and

m :,..........
,._.........
lj........::...........
} _::,,.
j '.
free-arm covers by loosening four screws
,_i 2i,..
.....!_.......
,IL.......
,/ii:_i::i:_ o (A, B, C and D).
I:,
| t_
_
"
i'
,_, :
;..... B ,
I

I _ ! " I_ . _._-z,. p, " C

4 _....
-K.....
" Y f_

Free-arm Bottom cover

cover

_'___-...................
_ !_I,_
.......... __.----_----,
,_ v-- _ , i_iI
.......... ::Z_-_,-'-- _---_-----.----_" .... -5;._,- -. '__----_---'-=_
_'I',"---- -_"- " " ' _"_-'_"
............'=="_
U

24
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OILING IN FACE COVER PLATE

Swing face cover plate open and oil points .................

L-_
indicated by arrows in illustration.

ii

OILING IN END COVER PLATE

A drop of oil should be placed through the

hole indicated in the end cover plate. i

!
I
!
!
!
!
i
i
i
!
!

CHANGING LIGHT BULB

The sewing light is located inside the face

cover plate as shown. To replace the bulb,
push switch to off, unplug machine and
swing the face cover plate open. Push up on
the bulb slightly and turn bulb to the left.
Withdraw bulb from socket. Push in new
bulb and turn to the right.

25
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CHECKING

SUSPECTED PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE

IRREGULAR Incorrect size needle.
STITCHES Improper threading.
•-.Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Light pressure on presser foot.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening.
BREAKING Pulling fabric.
NEEDLE Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
BUNCHING OF Upper and lower threads not drawn back under presser
THREAD foot before starting seam.
PUCKERING Incorrect thread tension(s).
Light pressure on presser foot.
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.

SKIPPING Incorrect size needle.

STITCHES Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Light pressure on presser foot.
BREAKING UPPER Starting to stitch too fast.
THREAD Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs at needleplate opening.
BREAKING BOBBIN Improper bobbin case threading.
THREAD Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.

FABRIC NOT Feed cover plate attached.

MOVING Light pressure on presser foot.
Thread knotted under fabric.

MACHINE JAMMING, Thread caught in shuttle.

KNOCKING NOISE Damaged needle.
'i
Bent needle plate.
MACHINE DOES Hand wheel not returned to stitching position.
NOT SEW Power cord not connected.
Power/light switch off.

26
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POSSIBLY EASY CORRECTION

Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Rethread machine; check tension spring threading.
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Increase prpssure on presser foot.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric,
Reset needle.
Reset presser foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and back of presser foot
about 4" and hold until a few stitches are formed.
Reset thread tension(s).
Increase pressure on presser foot.
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay of tissue paper,
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Use "Q NEEDLE'"" and "'Q FOOT"".
Insert new needle.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Increase pressure on presser foot.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needle.
Replace needleplate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.

Remove feed cover plate.

Increase pressure on presser foot.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning to stitch.
Disassemble and clean shuttle.
Replace needle.
Replace needle plate.
Push in clutch.
Check plug,
Push to on position.

27
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2. STARTING TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls

on your machine and with the accessories
provided for the machine, you are ready to
start to sew with your sewing machine.
Below are some good habits to follow each
time you sit down to sew:

m
Check the needle-it should be straight,
properly set and sharp on the point.
It should be the correct size for the fabric
and thread being used. Do not be afraid
to change your needle frequently. Many

.co
of the new fabrics made of synthetic
blends tend to dull the needles more
easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.
, Before placing the material on the
machine, see that the ends of the threads
have been drawn about 3 - 4 inches to the
rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
es
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4
stitches of the seam.
. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of
fabric you plan to use. The fabric should
be double thickness. Adjust the machine
uid

for the length of stitch and tension

suitable to your fabric.
. Fabric should be placed under the presser
foot with the bulk of the material to the
left of the needle and the right edge of the
material placed on the 5/8" seam marking
on the needle plate when making a simple
-g

seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed.
The more pressure you put on the foot
control, the faster the machine will sew.
all

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the

beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the
needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in
front of the needle. Never pull or hold the
fabric in such a way that the normal
feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually,
always turn it toward you.

28
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MACHINE SETTING CHART

Buttonhole
control " Stitch width dial
|- !

Stitch modifier

Needle plate Presser foot Stitch length dial

Machine settings are graphically shown in following illustrated charts, select and sew a
this section for your quick reference. Simply variety of stitches shown below...

Buttonhole Elastic blind stitch

Straight stitch Domino

Zigzag • Diamond

Straight stretch Crescent

Rick-rack stretch Scallop

Feather stretch Overcast stretch

Smocking stretch Paris point stretch

Elastic stretch Arabesque

Mending Tree

Box Tulip

Blind Swan

29
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STRAIGHT STITCHING

!i ;uiI n
* Straight stitch
needle plate * Straight foot , Any setting but"0""

*You may use zigzag, straight stitch foot or Q foot,

but for best control of fabric, best looking straight
stitches and best feeding of fabric use Straight
Stitch Foot and Needle Plate.

FASTENING A SEAM
Be sure both threads are drawn back under
the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric
about 1/2 inch from beginning of seam.
Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in
reverse until needle reaches beginning of
electronic "!1 seam. Release control and complete seam.
When you reach the end, depress the reverse
stitch lever and sew back (backtack) over 1/2
inch of completed seam.

TURNING A SQUARECORNER
o To turn a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge, stop stitching when reaching
the cornering guide and push needle up/
down switch to lower the needle into the
fabric.
_2. Raise the presser foot and turn fabric.
New stitching line will align with 5/8"
seam guide on side of needle plate. Lower
the presser foot and begin stitching in
new direction.
3O
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REMOVING FABRIC

First turn the handwheel toward you until the

needle is at its highest position, then raise the
presser foot, draw materials to the rear and
cut off excess thread with the thread cutter
located on the presser bar as shown.

TOP-STITCHING
This is a seam you may want to show of!! It's
on the front side of the garment, possibly at
the top of a "kick pleat" or on a lapel, both
functional and decorative. Usually, it's a
simple, forward stitch- with an extra-long
stitch length, or with special thread, match-
ing or contrasting.

\
DARNING
SETTINGS

Stitch Length - 8 to 10
Pressure Regulator- 0 (DARN)
Zigzag foot or square automatic buttonhole
foot
Stretch fabric between embroidery hoops
with hole centered. Lower presser bar and
sew at a slow speed moving fabric back and
forth with a steady rhythm to cover darning
area. When it is covered, turn fabric 1/4 a
turn and sew layer of stitching across first
layer.
If fabric is thin or badly damaged in hole area,
you may want to put a separate piece under
the hole for reinforcement.

31
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TEMPORARY SEWING BY
Regular Basting MACHINE
Regular basting by machine is easy--simply
use straight stitching with longest available
Free Method
length setting. And your machine has a free
basting method for very long stitches that
sometimes can be used for "marking".

FREE BASTING METHOD

electronic

SETTINGS

Basting switch - turn on

Pressure regulator - 0 (DARN) or 1
Use feed cover plate.
o o
Tap the foot control and the machine will
take one stitch and stop automatically with
the needle in the up position. Holding the
fabric in both hands, pull it back to the
required stitch length.
Repeat this process, tapping down on the
foot control and guiding the fabric with your
hands.

PIN BASTING
You can sew over pins easily (if done
correctly) because your presser feet are
hinged. Pins must be inserted at right angles
to seam line. Tip of pin should just touch
seam line. Sew over tip of pins. Pins must not
come in contact with feed dogs: Never pin on
the under-side of the fabric. Sew slowly. If in
doubt about sewing over pins, remove each
pin as you approach it.

STAY- STITCHING
',Stay-stitching" is a form of temporary
seaming that prevents stretching of curved
edges of garments. Usually this is on a single
layer of fabric, so reduce top thread tension
slightly to prevent puckering. Baste about
:,4"' away from intended seamline.

32
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ZIPPER APPLICATION - CORDING

Home-sewn zippers can look as nice as those

on expensive ready-mades. We recommend
you follow directions, given on zipper
package. There are two basic types: conven-

m
tional, and invisible. Your Zipper Foot will
assist you v_ith any of these installations.
Use these simple settings:

For conventional zippers... Your zipper foot

.co
is adjustable for use on right or left side of
needle. Adjust foot so needle clears side REGULAR
notch on foot. Then proceed according to ZIPPER
zipper manufacturer's instructions.

Invisible zippers are applied to an open seam,

to seam allowances only; there is no stitch-
es
ing visible .on outside of garment. Adjust
z!pper foot so needle is sewing through
center hole of foot and one groove of foot is
riding on teeth of zipper. After zipper
insertion, finish by shifting foot to side
position and sewing through side notch.
uid

INVISIBLE
ZIPPER
-g

Your zipper foot also makes it easy to add

"cording" to garments as well as slip covers,
toss pillows, bedspreads, decorative pieces.
Cut fabric on bias and wrap around cord.
all

Pin fabric in place so seam edges are even.

With zipper foot to left of needle, stitch close
to cord.

CORDING

33
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NARROW HEMMING

Attach the Narrow Hemmer to the adjustable

holder. Make sure that edge of the fabric is
cut straight. Turn a tiny double hem (Vo inch)
along edge for about two inches. Place end
of this hem under Narrow Hemmer. Hold
thread taut '_hile stitching along insid_ edge
of hem. Feed fabric gradually into "scroll" in
hemmer, guiding edcJe of fabric as shown.

QUILTING

Attach the quilting guide to presser foot as

shown. After completing the first row of
stitching, place the guiding prong on this
stitched line. The second row then can be
placed at the desired distance from first row.
Continue working in this way for as many
rows as you want.

34
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ZIGZAG STITCHING

Simple zigzag stitching enables you to do stitch length. You'll find "recipes" for many
many exciting things with your Kenmore zigzag operations on following pages. You
sewing machine. Beyond basics, you'll use can create an exciting variety of zigzag
zigzag stitching to applique, embroider and stitches by adjusting stitch width and length
monogram. Unlike straight stitches, zigzag controls (see chart below).
stitches have a side-to-side width as well as a

o
Narrow zigzag for light fabrics, barely
"'q'_- °_ 1_1t ....... 2--'.._ J "-_-- - --_ -- _ "-_" -.-- _ - .'__--...
shows - set at 1.

o
Medium zigzag for most construction
__AA_W_A/_A_/Wl_,
_-'_--'_" 2 '_-_ _. ,I seams- set at 2,

©
Wide zigzag for double layers, like hemm-
ing- set at 3.

©
Extra wide zigzag for heavy fabrics or those
that fray- set width at 4,

" 35
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OVERCASTING
Stitch Selector- /VVVV_
Stitch Length - 12 - 8
Stitch Width - 3- 4
Use Overcast Foot.

This is one of the more frequently used

zigzag stitches on garment construction.
You may want to overcast along the raw
edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw
edge toward the garment and stitch.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just

short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges
of older garments can be overcast to prevent
further raveling.

SATIN STITCHING
Stitch Selector - /VVVV_
Stitch Length Dial- Between 0 and 24 (m)
Use metal or plastic Satin stitch foot which is
grooved to permit dense stitching to pass
under it easily.

Satin stitch Closely spaced zigzag stitches are called satin

foot stitches. This is an attractive stitch used for
appliqueing, bar tacking.
Whenever you are using this stitch, it is well
to remember to loosen the tension of the top
thread slightly. The wider the stitch you
make, the looser the tension should be.
If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, use a
backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a
well formed stitch. Puckering of the material
will be eliminated and the bobbin thread will
not be visible on the right side of the fabric.
As with all special stitches, it is best to make
a sample design on your fabric before starting
the design on the garment.

BAR TACKING

Settings same as Satin Stitching

This stitch is similar to a very short satin

li stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain
such as corners of pockets and straps on
lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

36
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APPLIQUEING

Settings same as Satin Stitching

Select an applique design to be applied to

your garment and baste it in place. Satin
stitch around the raw edge of the applique
completely covering the edge. You may want
to do this with a contrasting color of thread.

EMBROIDERY

Settings same as Satin Stitching

Satin stitch can be used to produce many

different designs and patterns. To sew the
flowers illustrated, back the fabric with
interfacing or paper and draw on the design
with tailor's chalk. Turn the stitch width
control from 0-4-0 to from each petal and
leaf. Join the flowers and leaves with straight
stretch stitch. If using paper, carefully
remove it when you have finished sewing.

MONOGRAMMING

Settings same as Satin Stitching

To sew initials, first back the fabric with

interfacing or paper. Draw the initials on to
the fabric with tailor's chalk. Satin stitch,
adjusting the width from 0-4 as you begin
and end the stroke of a letter. Or the same
stitch width can be used throughout. If using
paper, carefully remove it when you have
finished sewing.

37
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BUTTON SEWING

Stitch Selector - AAAAA

Stitch Width - Adjust to Button Size
Use Feed Cover Plate and Clear Plastic
Satin Stitch Foot.

m
. Position the button on fabric with clear
tape.
2. Center the left hole of button between
straight seamline and the left edge of

.co
needle slot of foot and lower _oot to hold
the button securely;
PRESSER . Turn hand wheel manually until needle
FOOT point is just above button.
LEFT HOLE
4. Adjust stitch width control so needle will
OF
STRAIGHT enter right hole of the button.
BU TTO N
SEAMLINE 5. Turn hand wheel again by hand so needle
es
!._
! enters second hole. Readjust stitch width
if necessary. Stitch a number of times.
. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of
thread remaining. Draw these threads to
reverse side of garment and tie.
BUTTON
uid

--
When sewing a flat button, place needle or
pin between holes of button as shown to
provide flexibility for buttoning.
-g
all

38
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MENDING AND OVERCAST STITCHING (THREE-STEP ZIGZAG)

MENDING A TEAR
ii!i:!i!iii!i!::iiiii!i:i
:i:iiiii!iiiii!ii!iiiiiii:
:" ::i:i:i:i:i:!
i:i : :
Stitch Length-
Stitch Width-
0-24
3-4
iliiii iiliiiiiiiiiiiii!iiiii!iiiiii
!i i! ili :i,i
_._. ,_._1 I,,,im ml.|l_41 i)m _A'z ......... .. |b 1|.14,1|11, Ii ¢i 1 ii Ni, | ii i I .'.

. ._...l_ _l_-_l_l_,ll!llll.ll_w L ......... ,w.itlnl |,_llll.llrW.llrllk'lfl_l.-.

To repair a straight or three-cornered tear,
.

.... .d, )_,.II_.T.p..T_. _.l_l'.!€':':':':':'-':-:'_T-t.'_'.lr.v'.f. I[ I"11 _ ;I.lr l.'v'_

• ...._, ........... ..... ..:...:..:.:._.:...:._.- :.: :.--_. , :. _....:.. .... ...
position the tear under the needle in such a
way that the stitching catches both sides of -. _ :':w¢ P':............... "'" "' " '" """""" "" " " ' " "
........................ • ..... . ,..
the tear. When mending a three-cornered
tear, stitch from each end to the center. It is
well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for • . .._.= _,,_....
_,_._,4.,'." ........
.,-...............:._
-.... ..,. ,....,.
_ -
• .
:..._. : '.:." _....:,_
. .-..........-........
_ • _ -.'...: ..
,

reinforcement. :::i:::::):i':'!:i:i:i'i:i:i:?:i:i:i:i:i:i.!:i:i:i:':"'- ": ::::::::::::::::::::::: i:'i-ii':, i"

::i!i!ili!iiiiiiii!i::iii_ii!!iiii;!!iiii:ji!::iiii::::
::!i:i:_iiiiii!?i?::iiiii::
ii_i;i:::_

OVERCASTING WITH MENDING STITCH

",> <,,'
Stitch Length- 24- 12
Stitch Width- 3-4

Three-step zig-zag is a strong stitch because,

i'> <'i
as its name implies, it takes three short "..

stitches where normal zig-zag takes one.

For this reason it is highly recommended for • ..,"
overcasting, i.e. finishing a raw edge, on all ,,> <,,.
types of fabric.
<""

",,> <,,"
•" 1 "._

39
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BOX STITCH

Stitch Length - 24- 12

Stitch Width- 2- 4

OVERLAPPED SEAM

Box stitch is ideal for producing flat

overlapped seams on almost any type of
fabric and a bolder effect will result from
sewing with a contrasting thread.
Overlap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric
2" and pin or tack. Place the fabric right side
up with the middle of the overlap under the
center of the presser foot, so that the stitch
sews just over the top and bottom raw edges.

_B DECORATIVE EDGING
S
Turn the raw edge under 2" and press. Place
t I
the fabric right side up with the middle of the
turnover under the center of the presser foot,
so that the stitch sews on to the fold and just
over the raw edge underneath.
7 I

4O
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BLIND HEMMING

Blind hemming is a good technique to use on --Regular blind stitch for

garments, and especially on curtains and normal fabrics
drapery hems so that stitches need not show
--Elastic blind stitch for soft,
on the front of the fabric. Because your stretchable fabrics
Kenmore has two types of blindstitches built
in, blind hemming is easier than you'd
expect. It's just a matter of folding.., give it
a try!

PROCEDURE
INSIDE
OF DRESS
Stitch Length- 12
Stitch Width - 1½ - 2

Finish raw edge of fabric appropriately. You

may want to use seam tape on woven fabrics.
With knits use a lace seam tape or just use
decorative stretch stitch.

FINISHED
EDGE

41
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Working on wrong side of fabric, fold hem

up. Press and pin in place. Then fold hem
allowance under.., leaving Vs"' of hem edge
extending.

D
EDGE

Place garment under blind stitch foot with

® the fold of the garment against guide and
slide it by turning screw so that the zigzag
just catches the fold. (Blind hemming can be
simplified by also using the special Kenmore
Edgestitcher- please refer to p. 21 for details. )

SCREW
GUIDE

RIGHT SIDE OF Now the right side of your garment will show
FINISHED HEM only the blind stitches ! Be sure to press both
sides of the finished hem J

SHELL STITCHING with blind hem pattern

Stitch Length- 12
Stitch Width - 2-4

This shell-stitched edge is a popular finish for

lingerie and nightgowns. To achieve this
multiple scalloped effect, allow needleto
clear just the left edge of the fabric when it
zigzags.

42
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SCALLOP STITCH

m
.co
es
uid

PROCEDURE

1. With right sides of fabric together, sew

near the folded edge with scallop stitch.
2. Trim allowance to 1/8" or less. Notch
curves if necessary. Cut down into points.
-g

3. Turn to right side and push scallops out

evenly. If they do not seem even, be sure
curves are notched similarly. Fig. 2.
4. Press flat.
all

43
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STRETCH STITCHES

0
.i_-'' _

Jlli
I i'!f
1--4

C ---I 0
See next page.

Zigzag needle plate Zi, Izag or Q foot Within yellow zone

Stretch stitches, as their names imply, are

mainly for use on stretch and knit fabrics
® ® such as stretch nylon, stretch towelling,
jersey and cotton jersey; and for sewing
together knitted garments. Stretch stitches
are also often used on non-stretch fabrics.

1. Straight stretch
2. Rick-rack stretch
3. Feather stretch
4. Smocking stretch
i
5. Elastic stretch
i 6. Overcast stretch
7. Paris point stretch

ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Depending upon your preference in stitch
patterns, you may make stretch stitches
closer together without changing the balance
of stitches by turning stitch length control to
lower numbers within yellow zone.

44
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ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH

BALANCE
Stitch modifier should be in neutral (notched)
position for most materials. Depending upon
the type of fabric used, you may need to
adjust this control to match forward stitches
of stretch sewing with reverse motion
stitches. If the stitches are too open, turn the
control slightly clockwise; if the stitches
overlap, turn the control counter-clockwise.

RECOMMENDATION
1. It is recommended you use the Q set for
sewing knit and woven synthetic fabrics.
2. It may be necessary to use an interfacing
or backing when sewing very soft and
thin knits or woven synthetic fabrics. Rick-Rack Stretch Smocking Stretch

STRAIGHT STRETCH STITCH

SETTINGS
Stitch Selector-
Stitch Length- Yellow Zone
Stitch Width - Any number (not necessary
to adjust)
You may use either a zig zag or straight stitch
foot BUT-- for best control of fabric, best
looking straight stitches and best feeding of
fabric use Straight Stitch Foot and Straight
Stitch Needle Plate.

Use this stretch stitch with knit or synthetic

fabric. Sew as you do with regular straight
stitch.
This is also a good stitch to use on curved
seams regardless of the type of fabric. Any
seam that will receive a great deal of strain
when worn should be sewn with the stretch
stitch. Use in children's shorts and slacks as
well as adult sports clothes.

45
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RI_KI- RACK STRETCH STITCH

Stil_h ;elector-
st= h.ength- YellowZone
Sti_h _/idth - Yellow Zone

stretch fabrics in any area that you

use a zig zag stitch. This stitch can be
.s a decorative top stitch as well.

It!_u:;eful also on lapped or abutted seams

where you lap one edge of a seam over
anethq ;r with seamlines meeting in the center.
==
9=

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=b

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=1,

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HER STRETCH STITCH

Selector- _'<<_<<_,
Length - Yellow Zone
Width - 2-4

; a good stitch to use with laces, on

.=, bra and girdles; and to apply bias
It's great when quilting.

SMC_CKING STRETCH STITCH

i i

Selector-
Length- YellowZone
Width- 2-4

1, IM,ake a straight line of gathers across the

fabric that you wish to smock.

2. _ith a narrow strip of fabric directly

under the line of gathering, stitch over the
gathers. The design will be a series of
small diamonds.
I
N_tei When smocking a garment, the stitch-
ing should be done before the piece is
sewn into the garment.
46
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ELASTIC STRETCH STITCH

•Stitch Selector -/kA/k,_
Stitch Length- YellowZone
Stitch Width - 2 - 4

Use this versatile stitch to insert elastic in

garments. Simply stitch elastic into place,
making sure it is evenly spaced. To do this,
mark the correct length piece into quarters,
then match these markings with center front
and side seams.

OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector - t_k/k/k/k
Stitch Length- YellowZone
Stitch Width - 4

This is the same type stitch used by the

garment industry in making sportswear-it
forms and finishes the seam in one operation
(for seams of _" to 3,/8"). It's very effective
for use in repairing raw or worn edges of
older garments.

PARIS POINT STRETCH STITCH

Stitch Selector - 11111141

Stitch Length - 12
Stitch Width - 2-3

Excellent for hemstitching table and bed

covers With a elegant touch. Picot-like stitch
can also be made on sheer materials. Sew
along the raw edge of fabric and trim close to
the outside of the stitching.

47
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GEl"riNG THE MOST FROM FABRICS THAT GIVE

Some stretchy suggestions...
Be sure to use the Q SET'"with knits and any and lower needle before lowering presser
synthetic woven fabric -- and zigzag or satin foot.
foot as required.
It is always a good idea to test thread tension
Loosely constructed knits sometimes catch and stitches on a scrap of the fabric being

m
over toes of presser foot. To remedy this, used.
wrap short strip of transparent tape around
Knits contain more yarn than woven fabrics,
the foot encasing both toes.
so you will need to take greater care to keep
To avoid tangled threads when working with your machine clean specially in feed dog and

.co
knits, start seams carefully. Position fabric bobbin case area.

WHERE TO USE WHICH STRETCH STITCH: A CHECK-CHART

Specially for Stretch

Use on stretch and knit fabrics and to repair ready made
garments at stress points. Basic stitch for all garment
es
seams requiring "give" (i. e. armholes, crotch area, etc.).
Use also to sew center seam of men's neck ties and seams
STRAIGHT STRETCH cut on the bias.
A basic multi-purpose stretch stitch with same usage as
,fVVVV zigzag stitch, especially for lightweight stretch fabrics.
uid

RICK-- RACK STRETCH

Use with laces, on lingerie, bra and girdles; and to apply
<<<<<<<<<<< bias tape. It's great when quilting.

FEATHER STRETCH
-g

A decorative stitch for use on children's clothing, lingerie,

yokes of blouses, dress bodice.

SMOCKING STRETCH

Use to apply elastic to top of lingerie or to repair ready-

all

made lingerie and replace or restitch elastic.

ELASTIC STR ETCH

Use on sportswear where _" seams are required. Makes

AA AAAA and finishes seams at same time.

OVERCAST STRETCH

Use for hemstitching and seam finishes. Also for applique

i11111 and other decorative
"t
elastic blind hem, hem on knits.

PARIS POINT STRETCH

48
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"Everyday" Stitches with Stretch Applications

Use for all-purpose stretch sewing, seam finishing, edge
//_/V_iV_ finishing, or attaching stretch laces.
PLAIN ZIGZAG

-VV'V-V- A good shell stitch for nylon tricot lingerie•

BLIND HEM
Can be use for attaching girdle panels and applying stretch
•__'¢_'_" ,h_Ww laces.

CRESCENT STITCH

HINTS ON SEWING DIFFERENT FABRICS

The chart below provides many details but ,,When working on tweed-or other multi-
you'll also want to remember... colored bulky fabrics -- use one color thread
• Soft fabrics may need backing- especially on bobbin, another on top. (Great for
where stitches are close together. repairs- the "patch" practically dis-
appears!)
•In sewing knits, if you can't match fabric
and thread exactly, use the strongest fine
thread available and use a Q NEEDLE.

FABRICS USEFUL STITCHES TO USE SPECIAL NOTIONS TO USE

Overcast Stretch Feather Stitch

Elastic Stretch Blind Hem Q NEEDLE TM
NYLON TRICOT Mending Stitch Polyester, nylon or
Crescent Stitch dacron core thread
Paris Point Stretch Q FOOT'"
Elastic Blind Hem

TERRY CLOTH Simple Zigzag Mercerized Thread

REGULAR . Mending Stitch Size 14 needle
CORDUROY Paris Point Stretch

Simple Zigzag
Mercerized Thread
TERRY CLOTH Mending Stitch Polyester, nylon or
STRETCH Overcast Stretch dacron core thread
Q NEEDLE TM
Q FOOT'"
Mercerized or silk thread
LEATHER Straight or simple Zigzag Size 14 needle
pressure on presser foot
Even feed foot
STRETCH KNITS Overcast Stretch Crescent Stitch Polyester, nylon or
FOR SWIMWEAR Elastic Stretch dacron core thread
AND SKIWEAR Mending Stitch Q NEEDLE TM
OR GIRDLES Feather Stitch Q FOOT TM
Scallop Stitch Lace seam tape
Elastic Blind Hem Pre-shrunk zippers

49
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BUTTONHOLE MAKING

Your Kenmore brings you two buttonhole

systems along with several special acces-
sories that enable you to solve all your
clbthes "closing" problems. _

Your built-in system enables you to sew

buttonholes with finished ends (bar-tacked)
by simply turning the stitch selector. Only
two control settings are required. An
important aid is the buttonhole 'guide foot.

Built-in system

Your buttonhole attachment is a Kenmore

"special" that guides the fabric for you,
eliminates the need to turn fabric by hand.

You will find following parts in your

accessory box:
1. Buttonhole guide plate.
2. Five templates which give you a choice
of buttonhole styles and lengths.

3. Cover plate with pinion gear.

4. Buttonhole foot.

TIPS ON BUTTONHOLING

Always make a practice buttonhole on a

scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the
buttonhole with the button you will use.
® ® Always use an interfacing in area of
garment where buttonholes are placed.
Tissue paper or regular interfacing can
be used. Tear paper away after stitch-
ing, if it is used.

For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your

top thread tension slightly.
Buttonhole attachment

5O
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BUTTONHOLE MAKING ° BUILT-IN SYSTEM

PREPARATION
Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your
garment. Place the fabric with the buttonhole
marked under the buttonhole foot. Pull the
guide foot (A) all the way forward so that the
index mark (B) is aligned with the graduation
(C), with thread to rear. (Reproduction of the
identical size buttonholes is facilitated with
the aid of the graduations on the both sides
of the buttonhole guide foot. These gardua-
tions are 1/8" (left side) or 2.5mm (right side)
apart. Graduations act as reference mark.)

PROCEDURE
, Switch the control to left. (If it has been
(#
already at left, set it at right, sew several
stitches and switch to left again.) Step on
foot control to form first bartack and left
side of buttonhole.

2. When you reach end of left side, switch

the control to the right and complete the
buttonhole.

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ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY

Less density
Depending upon the fabrics on which you are
sewing, or your own preference in button-
I holes, you may alter buttonhole stitch density

I by varying the original stitch length

within the green buttonhole zone.
setting

I . For more
#_O t, "
density, turn the dial toward

More density 2. For less density, turn the dial toward

® "12".

ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE

Stitch length differences in forward and

reverse stitches of the buttonhole are
equalized with the stitch modifier.
If the reverse stitches are too far apart, turn
the modifier slightly clockwise; if they are too
close together, turn counter-clockwise.

CORDED BUTTONHOLES
A
Hook filler cord (crotchet thread or button-
hole twist) to the spur (A), pull both ends of
cord forward under foot and tie to the spur
(B). Sew buttonhole in such a way that
zigzag stitches cover the cord.
When stitching is completed, release cord
from foot, pull ends of cord and snip off extra
B length.

52
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BuI-rONHOLE MAKING - USING BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT

m
1 -- I_

.co
I,i!t-°n
III
es
Zigzag needle plate
and feed cover plate Buttonhole foot Any setting
uid

REGULAR WORKED BUTTONHOLE

(STRAIGHT, KEYHOLE AND EYE-
LET)

PROCEDURE
Stitch Selector - /VVVV_
-g

Stitch Width - 1 - 1½
Zigzag Needle Plate
Feed Cover Plate
Buttonhole Foot
all

1. Raise needle to its highest position and

raise presser foot. Remove accessory box
and bobbin cover plate.
Insert buttonhole cover plate at 45 degree
angle and snap it down into place
pressing it against the needle plate.

.
Select correct template for type button-
hole you want. Insert template into slot of
guide plate. Turn template advance knob \
until desired size appears in window on
the top side of guide plate.

Template advance knob

53
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

.
Slip guide plate onto machine so it fits in
® place with pinion gear in the center of arc
hole of template. Be sure guide block is
inserted in guide slot.

I,H/J i Lil .IJ Guide

Guide.
slot

. Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate

by turning hand wheel. Place fabric
between presser foot and guideplate.
Align marked buttonhole with cut-out of
foot. Line up edge of fabric with markings
on guideplate. If you wish all buttonholes
to be 3/4" from edge of garment, for
example, line up fabric with 3/4" marking
each time you start a buttonhole.

Now you're ready to stitch the shape

you've selected-straight, keyhole or
eyelet. Your template will guide you.

54
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PURL-EDGE BUTTONHOLE

To add a professional touch to your sewing

you will want to make purledged button-
holes. These are obtained by sewing a wide
buttonhole over a narrow stitched button-
hole. '

Choose the correct size for your button,

insert the template into the guide plate
turning to the narrower of the sizes. Use the
same settings as for regular buttonhole and
adjust stitch width control to 1.
STEP 1
Drop the guide plate over the pinion gear and
sew around the buttonhole once. (STEP 1)

To sew wider outer buttonhole, lift the guide

plate from the pinion gear and turn the
template to wider size. Adjust stitch width
setting to 1.5. and sew around buttonhole
again. (STEP 2)

STEP 2

ADJUSTING STITCH DENSITY

Depending upon the fabrics on which you are

sewing, or your own preference in button-
holes, you may alter buttonhole stitch density
by turning stitch density control knob.

1. For more density, turn the knob. toward

you.
2. For less density, turn the knob away from More
you. density
Stitch density
control knob

55
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BOUND BUTTONHOLE

A template had been provided so that you

may sew perfectly sized rectangles each time
you make a bound buttonhole. Just follow
the directions given below.
SETTING
Stitch Width - 0 or Stitch Selector ......
Pressure Regulator - 1 or 2
Other settings same as regular worked
buttonhole
1. Space buttonholes on garment-mark
length on right side of fabric with pins.
Place patch of fabric over each button-
hole and mark ends of buttonhole with
chalk or pencil. Baste patch into place.
Using template similar in size to button-
hole, stitch rectangle on patch and
Fig. 1 garment. Do not sew over pins. (Fig. 1)

. Slash through patch and garment to

within 1/4" of ends of rectangle. Carefully
cut diagonally into corners as shown.
(Fig. 2)

Fig. 2

3. Turn patch to wrong side through slash.

Press as shown. (Fig. 3, 4)

Fig. 3

::..................& •:

I
t

Fig. 4

56
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, Fold patch forming lips of buttonhole.

Press and baste lips together. (Fig. 5)

Fig. 5

5. Stitch across pleats formed by lips of

patch. (Fig. 6)

Fig. 6

6. After buttonhole has been pressed, baste FACING SIDE

facing of garment around buttonhole and
slash opening in facing same length as
buttonhole. (Mark ends of buttonhole I I
with pins for guides). Turn under facing
edges and hem to buttonhole carefully.
(Fig. 7, 8) I i

Fig. 7
Slash Opening in Facing

FACING SIDE

Hem to Buttonhole Fig. 8

7. Remove all bastings and press. (Fig. 9) RIGHTSIDE

Complete Bound Buttonhole Fig. 9

57
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CHOOSING BUTTONHOLE STYLE AND SIZE

Each buttonholing situation will be different Eyelet buttonholes (another variation of
so you will want to experiment with your "straight") most often are used for studs on
garment, considering fabric and placement of skirts or holes for tongues of belt buckles.
button. Here are some basic applications:
Purl-edge buttonholes are made by stitching
Built-in buttonholes (described previously) a larger straight buttonhole on top of a

m
are ideal for one or two buttons used on narrow one- for a unique look.
waistband or cuff, or for "belt slots." Bound buttonholes-- made with extra fabric
Straight buttonholes are most popular for "hemming" the hole -- provide "professional
everyday sewing--for series of buttons on look" to dresses, jackets, coats and for

.co
dress, blouse, vest, jacket or coat. contrasting, decorative buttonholes.

Keyhole buttonholes are a variation of the

above, with an enlarged opening at one end
to allow more room for button shank. These
are normally used in tailored vests, jackets,
coats.
es
Purl-edge Bound
Straight Keyhole
Template buttonhole and eyelet
buttonhole buttonhole
buttonhole

(h
r ...... ;

]
uid

: !
i
U L: ",_...... J

45195
%"_,3h#"
-g

_s/T6". 1 1/t6" _
45196
1% "-1Vz"

45197
all

45198

45199

A WORD ABOUT BUTTONHOLE WIDTH

The width indicated for each operation in this

section is an approximate setting. You may
need to adjust width to suit your fabric...
experiment !

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DECORATIVE EMBROIDERY DESIGNS

,r ...... h ...... ,_
4-1

See next page.

Zigzag needle plate

??
Zigzag or satin foot
i:,,ilH
° i
I-_
°i
Green
patterns
Yellow
patterns

You may get the look and feel of hand

embroidery infinitely faster and easier by your
Domino machine.

Just choose which of the designs you want

to sew alone or in combination with each
Diamond other.

Crescent
TIPS ON DESIGN STITCHING

1. Always make a practice design on a scrap

Arabesque
of the fabric you plan to use.
2. Start with a full bobbin and plenty of
thread on the spool to avoid running out
____O 0 (__ Tree of thread in the middle of your design.
, Reduce the top therad tension slightly.
4. On a very soft fabric you may want to use
Tulip a tissue paper backing or organdy that
can be cuPaway.

_=7_ Swan

59
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ADJUSTING STITCH BALANCE OF

YELLOW PATTERNS

When sewing yellow patterns, you may need

to make slight adjustment to the stitch
modifier to produce perfect designs.
If the stitches are too far apart, turn the
control slightly clockwise; if they are closer
together, turn counter-clockwise.

APPLICATIONS

Create the loveliest of custom designs-your you see some applications and variations.
own personal touch. There is much you can You'll find many more design ideas as you
do by adjusting stitch width or length. Below become more expert.

Crescent pattern on collar Diamond on narrow hem Domino on bias tape

JZ_J_,j_JL_L

,\,
\

Tulip on pocket Arabesque on pillow case Crescent and diamond in

combination

Variation of both width and

Variation of width of length of swan pattern
diamond pattern

60
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WARRANTY

FULL 30-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD

For 30 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge,
repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the sewing
machine head.

FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF

SEWING MACHINE

For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge,
repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the
electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including motor, wiring,
switch and speed control.

FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL

ADJUSTMENTS

For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears wild, free of charge,
replace any parts and provide mechanical service necessary for proper
operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.

To obtain warranty service described above, SIMPLY CONTACT THE

NEAREST SEARS STORE OR SERVICE CENTER IN THE UNITED
STATES. This warranty applies only while this product is in use in the
United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other
rights which vary from state to state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 698/731A, Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684
 All manuals and user guides at all-guides.com

Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine,

should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact
any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co.
Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or
visit.

The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on

your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine.
See page 3 for location.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE

FOLLOWING INFORMATION :

*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION

If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be
electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution
Center for handling.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.

S - 158 Printed in Japan Part No.55079