Product Knowledge

Fabric Analysis : Assignment 1

An Assignment Report

submitted by

APPILI VAMSI KRISHNA (DP/23/FE/01)

Master of Fashion Management

National Institute of Fashion Technology, Chennai

February 13, 2024

 Abstract
This document is Assignment 1 submission of Roll Number DP/23/FE/01 , named Appili Vamsi Krishna
for the course of Product Knowledge.

Contents

1 Question 3

2 The Burn Test to Identify Textile Fibers 3

2.1 Burn Test Observations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
2.2 Test Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
2.2.1 Sample Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
2.2.2 Safe Ignition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2.3 Potential Test Results . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2.3.1 Natural, Organic & Manmade Fibers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
2.3.2 Synthetic Fibers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

3 Weave, Ply, Twist, and Fabric Density 5

3.1 Weave Pattern . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3.2 Ply . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3.3 Twist of Yarn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3.4 Ends per Inch (EPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
3.5 Picks per Inch (PPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.6 Stitch Density . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.7 Grams per Square Meter (GSM) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.8 Wales per Inch (WPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
3.9 Courses per Inch (CPI) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6

4 References 24

2
1 Question

Collect an assortment of fabric samples, comprising a minimum of 10 woven, 2 non-

woven, and 5 knitted fabrics. Conduct burn tests on these samples to ascertain their
composition. Detail the weave pattern, ply, and twist of each yarn. Calculate the
ends per inch (EPI) and picks per inch (PPI) to determine stitch density for woven
fabrics. Assess the GSM for non-woven fabrics. Evaluate the Wales per inch (WPI)
and Courses per inch (CPI) for knitted fabrics.

2 The Burn Test to Identify Textile Fibers

from reference [2], [4]

The burn test serves as a fundamental method for discerning the composition
of textile fibers, relying on the distinct burning behaviors of various fibers. When
conducting this test, we can observe several key indicators

2.1 Burn Test Observations

i. Flame Behavior: Note whether the fibers melt, burn, or exhibit both char-
acteristics.
ii. Reaction to Flame: Observe if the fibers shrink away from the flame upon
ignition.
iii. Odor: Identify the type of odor emitted during combustion.
iv. Smoke Characteristics: Describe any notable characteristics of the smoke
produced.
v. Residue Appearance: Examine the appearance and texture of the residue
left behind after burning.

2.2 Test Procedures

The burn test typically involves sampling small bundles of twisted yarns or threads,
as the fiber content may vary between warp and weft yarns in a fabric.

2.2.1 Sample Preparation

Select a small sample comprising six to eight yarns, approximately 4 inches in length,
and twist them together into a compact bundle.

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2.2.2 Safe Ignition

Secure one end of the bundle with tweezers and ignite the other end using a candle,
match, or automatic lighter. Ensure a safe working environment by conducting the
test over a sink or on a sheet of aluminum foil.

2.3 Potential Test Results

2.3.1 Natural, Organic & Manmade Fibers

I. Cotton, Hemp, Linen, Ramie: These fibers ignite readily, burning quickly
with a yellowish-orange flame. They produce an odor reminiscent of burning
paper or leaves and leave behind a fine, feathery gray ash.
II. Rayon, Tencel: Similar to cotton in burning characteristics, but may burn
more slowly and leave soft black ash.
III. Silk: Burns slowly without melting, emitting an odor akin to charred meat.
The residue forms a black, hollow bead or gritty ash powder.
IV. Wool and Protein Fibers: Burn with an orange sputtering flame, exhibiting
a strong odor of burning hair or feathers. The residue is a black, irregular bead
that can be crushed into a gritty powder.

2.3.2 Synthetic Fibers

I. Acetate: Burns quickly with a burning paper and vinegar-like odor, leaving
a hard, dark bead. Dissolves in fingernail polish remover.
II. Acrylic: Burns rapidly with a sputtering flame and fishy odor, leaving a hard,
irregular black bead.
III. Nylon: Burns slowly, shrinking away from the flame, with an odor reminiscent
of celery. Leaves a cream-colored residue that darkens to gray.
IV. Olefin/Polyolefin: Emits a chemical odor, leaving behind a hard, tan-colored
bead and black smoke.
V. Polyester: Shrinks away from the flame, burning slowly with black smoke
and a sweet chemical odor. The residue initially forms a cream-colored bead,
turning darker tan.
VI. Spandex: Burns and melts without shrinking from the flame, producing a
chemical odor. Leaves a soft, sticky black ash residue.

4
 Table 1: Flame Test Characteristics of Various Polymers
Polymer Flame Color Melting/Dripping Soot Formation Odor
Polyethylene (PE) Yellow/orange May melt, drip Minimal Waxy/oily
Polypropylene (PP) Blue Melts, may drip Minimal Sweet/oily
Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Yellow/orange May melt, drip Variable Hydrochloric/acrid
Polystyrene (PS) Yellow/orange Melts, may drip Variable Styrene
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) Yellow/orange May shrink, not drip Minimal Sweet, slightly acidic
Nylon (Polyamide) Blue/yellow Melts, may drip Variable Burnt protein
Acrylic (Polymethyl methacrylate) Blue/purple Melts, may drip Minimal Pungent/sour
Polycarbonate (PC) Yellow/orange Melts, may drip Moderate Aromatic, phenolic

3 Weave, Ply, Twist, and Fabric Density

from reference [3], [1]

When analyzing fabric samples, we are considering various characteristics such as
weave pattern, ply, twist of yarns, ends per inch (EPI), picks per inch (PPI), and
stitch density.

3.1 Weave Pattern

The weave pattern refers to the arrangement of warp and weft yarns in a fabric. Com-
mon weave patterns include plain, twill, satin, and jacquard. Each weave pattern
results in different fabric characteristics such as drape, durability, and appearance.

3.2 Ply

Ply refers to the number of individual yarns twisted together to form a single yarn.
For example, a 2-ply yarn consists of two individual yarns twisted together. Ply can
affect the strength, thickness, and appearance of the fabric.

3.3 Twist of Yarn

The twist of yarn refers to the direction and degree of twist applied during yarn
spinning. Yarns can be twisted in a clockwise (S twist) or counterclockwise (Z twist)
direction. The twist of yarn affects the fabric’s texture, strength, and resilience.

3.4 Ends per Inch (EPI)

EPI, or ends per inch, refers to the number of warp yarns per inch in a woven fabric.
It indicates the density of warp yarns and influences the fabric’s stability, strength,
and appearance.

5
3.5 Picks per Inch (PPI)

PPI, or picks per inch, refers to the number of weft yarns per inch in a woven fabric.
Similar to EPI, PPI determines the density of weft yarns and affects the fabric’s
characteristics such as thickness, drape, and breathability.

3.6 Stitch Density

Stitch density refers to the number of stitches per inch in a knitted or stitched
fabric. It indicates the density of yarns used in knitting or stitching and influences
the fabric’s stretch, durability, and texture.

3.7 Grams per Square Meter (GSM)

GSM, or grams per square meter, is a measure of the weight of a fabric per unit area.
It indicates the density of the fabric and is commonly used to quantify the thickness
and quality of non-woven fabrics, such as those used in medical applications.

3.8 Wales per Inch (WPI)

WPI, or wales per inch, refers to the number of vertical columns of stitches per inch
in a knitted fabric. Each column of stitches in a knitted fabric is known as a ”wale.”
WPI indicates the density of the stitches along the vertical direction of the fabric
and affects its stretch, appearance, and texture.

3.9 Courses per Inch (CPI)

CPI, or courses per inch, indicates the number of horizontal rows of stitches per inch
in a knitted fabric. Each row of stitches in a knitted fabric is known as a ”course.”
CPI determines the density of the stitches along the horizontal direction of the fabric
and influences its stretch, thickness, and drape.

6
 Non-Woven Fabric - 1

3 Ply Surgical Mask

GSM

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Content

Layer 1

Layer 2

Layer 3

7
 Non-Woven Fabric - 2

Surgical Head Cap

GSM

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Content

8
 Knitted Fabric - 1

WPI

CPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Value

Content

Stitch Pattern

9
 Knitted Fabric - 2

WPI

CPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Value

Content

Stitch Pattern

10
 Knitted Fabric - 3

WPI

CPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Value

Content

Stitch Pattern

11
 Knitted Fabric - 4

WPI

CPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Value

Content

Stitch Pattern

12
 Knitted Fabric - 5

WPI

CPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Value

Content

Stitch Pattern

13
 Woven Fabric - 1

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

14
 Woven Fabric - 2

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

15
 Woven Fabric - 3

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

16
 Woven Fabric - 4

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

17
 Woven Fabric - 5

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

18
 Woven Fabric - 6

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

19
 Woven Fabric - 7

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

20
 Woven Fabric - 8

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

21
 Woven Fabric - 9

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

22
 Woven Fabric - 10

EPI

PPI

Stitch Density

Flame Behavior

Reaction to Flame

Odor

Smoke Characteristics

Residue Appearance

Fabric Detail Warp Weft

Content

Weave

Ply

Twist

23
4 References

References
[1] A. R. Bunsell. Handbook of Tensile Properties of Textile and Technical Fibres. Elsevier Science, 2009.
[2] Pacific Fabrics. Burn Test to Identify Textile Fibers. 2015. url: https://siterepository.s3.amazonaws.com/
5968/burn_test_to_identify_textile_fibers.pdf.
[3] GIST: Yarn & Fiber. Weaving Definitions. 2018. url: https://www.gistyarn.com/blogs/how-to-weave/what-
is-wpi-how-do-i-use-it-to-calculate-sett-or-epi-for-weaving.
[4] M M Houck. Identification of Textile Fibers. Elsevier Science, 2009.

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