Republic of the Philippines

Department of Education
Regional Office IX, Zamboanga Peninsula

Zest for Progress

11/12 Z Peal of artnership

Name of Learner: ______________________

Grade & Section: ______________________
Name of School: ______________________
TVL– Grade 11/12
Alternative Delivery Mode
Quarter 3 – Module 6: SEW AND ASSEMBLE ATHLETIC SHIRTS

Republic Act 8293, section 176 states that: No copyright shall subsist in any
work of the Government of the Philippines. However, prior approval of the
government agency or office wherein the work is created shall be necessary for
exploitation of such work for profit. Such agency or office may, among other things,
impose as a condition the payment of royalties.

Borrowed materials (i.e., songs, stories, poems, pictures, photos, brand names,
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represent nor claim ownership over them.

Published by the Department of Education

Secretary: Leonor MagtolisBriones
Undersecretary: Diosdado M. San Antonio

Development Team of the Module

Writer: Dermedomie S. Abao

Editor: Bella B. Jumawan
Reviewers: Nilda Y. Galaura, Evelyn C. Labad
Illustrator: Abdurahman S. Bica
Layout Artist: Eva Joy J. Manga
Management Team:
SDS: Ma. Liza R. Tabilon EdD, CESO V
OIC-ASDS: Judith V. Romaguera, EdD
OIC-ASDS: Ma. Judelyn J. Ramos, EdD
OIC-ASDS: Armando P. Gumapon, EdD
CID Chief: Lilia E. Abello, EdD
LR: Evelyn C. Labad, EdD
PSDS: Reynaldo S. Alcala, PhD
Principal: Jennifer T. Bulanon, EMD

Printed in the Philippines by ________________________

Department of Education – Region– Zamboanga Peninsula IX
Office Address: Pres. Corazon C. Aquino Regional Government
Center, Balintawak, Pagadian City,
Zamboangadel Sur Province 1016
Telefax:Office Address:
Telefax: (062) 215-3753, 215-3751, 991-1907, 215-3789
E-mail Address: [email protected]

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 What I Need to Know

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. Discuss sewing and assembling garment parts for athletic shirts;

2. determine the pre-assembling method and procedure of assembling of an

athletic shirts; and

3. Prepare parts for sewing and assemble the garment parts of an athletic
shirts

What I Know

Multiple Choice

Directions: Read and analyze the questions below. Select the correct answer from
the letter of your choice and encircle it.

1. The process of matching patterns according to size and design.

A. Sewing C. Assembling
B. Stitching D. Bundling

2. The basic structural element of a garment or household textile item.

A. Seam C. Hem
B. Seam Finish D. Seam Allowance

3. A single line of stitching through one layer of fabric to prevent it from becoming
stretched.

A. grain line C. seam line

B. stay line D. hemline

4. Used on the unfinished seam edge to prevent raveling, curling, or rolling.

A. Seam C. Hem
B. Seam Finish D. Seam Allowance

5. The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched.

A. Bundling C. Assembling
B. Stitching D. Sorting

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Lesson SEW AND ASSEMBLE
ATHLETIC SHIRTS

What’s In

Pre-Assembling Procedure
1. Sorting/Bundling:

Sorting or Bundling is the process of matching patterns according to size and

design. The sorter makes bundles of patterns. This step requires much precision
because making bundles of mismatched patterns can create severe problems. On
each bundle there are specifications of the style, size and the marker is attached with
it.

2. Sewing/Assembling:

The sorted bundles of fabrics are now ready to be stitched. Large garment
manufacturers have their own sewing units but some give the fabrics under contract
to other contractors. Stitching in-house is preferable because one can maintain
quality control during the processing. Else, if contractors are hired, keeping an eye
on quality is difficult unless the contactor is the one who precisely controls the
process.

There are sewing stations for sewing different parts of the cut pieces. In this
workplace, there are many operators who perform a single operation. One operator
may make only straight seams, while another may make sleeve insets. Yet another
two operators can sew the waist seams, and make buttonholes. Various industrial
sewing machines, too, can make different types of stitches. These machines have

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different configurations of the frame. Some machines work sequentially and feed
their finished step directly into the next machine, while the gang machines have
multiple machines performing the same operation supervised by a single operator.
All these factors determine what parts of a garment can be sewn at that station.
Finally, the sewn parts of the garment, such as sleeves or pant legs, are assembled to
give the final form to the clothing.

Procedure in Assembling Athletic Shirts

Stayline or Staystitching

Stayline is a single line of stitching through one layer of fabric to prevent it

from becoming stretched.

How to Stayline

1. Adjust the seam gauge so the stay line in the seam allowance, ¼ cm from the
seam allowance.
If you do not have a seam gauge, a piece of adhesive tape can be used to
mark the desired seam allowance on the machine. Exceptions to the ¼ cm
distance from the stitching line will be:
a. Neckline, where directions specify ½ cm.
b. Side seams, where seam allowance has been increased to 2-2-1/2 cm.
c. One type of zipper placket where directions call for stay lining on the seam
line.

2. Practice guiding and feeding a sample piece of the fabric into the machine
without pulling on it.

3. Stay line in the places and in the directions shown

4. When an interfacing is used, the piece it interfaces with should be stay lined
together as one piece.

Stay lined seam allowance may stitch the grain to make handling easier.

Kinds of Seams and Seam Finishes in sewing athletic shirts

Carefully selected and well-constructed seams and seam finishes are important—
even critical—steps in the construction process. They are basic techniques used in
the sewing process.

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1. Seam is the basic structural element of a garment or household textile item. It
is a means by which two pieces of fabric are joined. Typical examples: plain,
French, flat-fell.

2. Seam finish is applied to/used on the unfinished seam edge to prevent

raveling, curling, or rolling. Typical examples: turned and stitched, double-
stitched, bound, serger.

Factors when selecting a seam and seam finish in sewing athletic shirts:

1. Fabric
- Is it tightly or loosely woven?
- Is it a single knit or double knit? Does the fabric ravel, curl, or roll?
- What is the weight of the fabric: light, medium, or heavy?
- Is it sheer?

2. Use of garment
- Is it sportswear or evening wear?
- How often will it be worn?

3. Care of garment
- Will it be machine-washed, hand-washed, or dry-cleaned?

4. Location of seam/seam finish

- Is it curved or straight?
- Will it be exposed as in an unlined skirt?
- Will it be enclosed as in a collar seam?

5. Sewing ability and skill

- Are you a novice or an experienced sewer?

6. Equipment
- Do you have only a straight-line stitching sewing machine?
- Do you have a serger?

Standards.

A well-constructed seam should be:

 Smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside parts. (Properly
adjust machine tension, stitch length, and presser foot pressure to suit the
fabric and thread. Make sure fabric does not crease.)
 Do this as well as with its width all throughout.
 Press open or close according to the type of seam and how it should be used
in the construction process.
 If stitched with thread, the thread should be appropriate to the fabric type and
fiber content. (Thread color should match or slightly darker.)

A well-constructed seam finish in sewing athletic shirts should:

 be neat and smooth in appearance, without added bulk;

 protect the area and prevent the edge from raveling, stretching, rolling, or
curling; and

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  not be visible from the right side of the garment.

Different types of Seams in sewing athletic shirts

Seams may be created with thread by hand or machine (sewing machine and
serger) or with fusion through chemical bonding. When a serger/overlock machine is
used to construct a seam, the fabric edges are finished all in one process. The basic
seams are plain, French, and flat-fell. Unless otherwise stated, a seam is stitched
5/8 –inch from the cut edge. The fabric from the stitching line to the cut edge is
called a seam allowance.

1. Plain Seam A plain seam is the simplest seam to make and is the basis for
many other seams. It is a good choice for the novice sewer. This seam can be
used on woven and knit fabrics and on straight or curved areas. It can be
constructed by hand or machine. A seam finish is needed on most woven
fabrics, especially when the seam is exposed and when knit fabric curls or
rolls.

Steps:
a. Place the right sides of the fabric together, matching the stitching lines. Pin
and/or hand baste.
b. Stitch along the 5/8 -inch seam line. (Stitching may begin and end with
backstitching—stitch forward a few stitches, then backward, and then forward to
the end.) A narrow, open zigzag stitch can be used.
c. Press. Plain seams can be straight-stitched or zigzagged.

2. French The French seam is basically a seam within a seam. It is strong and
durable but should be used only on straight edges.
This seam is used on light-weight woven, sheer, and other delicate fabrics. It
is an excellent choice for see-through fabrics. French seams can be constructed
by hand or sewing machine. Seam finish is not needed.

3. Flat-Fell (also called flat-felled) This seam is designed for woven fabrics and
straight edges. It is used when constructing sports-wear, men’s and children’s
wear, reversible items, and heavy-duty items requiring strong, durable seams.
It is generally made with a sewing machine and can be difficult to construct
on heavy fabric. No seam finish is necessary.

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Steps:
a. Put the wrong sides of the seam allowances together. Stitch along the 5/8-inch
seam line to make a plain seam. Press seam allowance on one side.
b. Trim lower seam allowance (inside seam allowance) about 1/8 -inch.
c. Turn the top seam allowance edge under 1/4-inch. Press.
d. Repeat on the other side of the seam allowance.

Different types of Seam Finishes in sewing athletic shirts

Seam finishes may also be referred to as ―edge‖ finishes, as they may be used
in locations other than seam allowances. These locations include hem edges and
facings. The method of construction is almost always the same and the goal is to
prevent a raw edge from raveling (woven fabric) or curling (knit fabric).

 Edge Stitched - As a seam finish, this technique is reserved primarily for

knit fabrics. It is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or
curling. The finish requires a sewing machine making it easy to construct.
Edge stitching is suitable for straight or curved seams and edges.

Steps:
a. With right sides of the seam allowances together, prepare a plain
seam. Press it open.
b. Take one side of the seam allowance (single thickness) and stitch a
line of regulation using machine stitching (approximately 12 to 14
stitches per inch) about 1/4-inch from the cut edge.
c. Repeat on the other seam allowance. (Stitching along the edge of the
seam allowance prevents rolling or curling.)

 Edge Stitched Double-Stitched

The double-stitched finish also begins with a plain seam. It is used for
knit fabrics and on seam allowances that are pressed together to one side and
treated as one. It is used to prevent seam allowances from rolling or curling on
lightweight knit fabrics. The technique is ideal for the beginning sewer and
may be done in several ways. It requires a sewing machine. Some methods
require a sewing machine with zigzag or decorative stitch capability.

Steps:
a. With right sides of the seam allowances together, prepare a plain
seam. Press seam together.
b. Stitch a second row of stitching into the seam allowance area,
approximately 1/8-inch away from first line of stitching. The second
row of stitching can be a straight conventional stitch, a medium-width
zigzag, or a machine over-edge/over- cast stitch. NOTE: The machine
over-edge stitch is recommended for raveling woven fabrics, not nits.

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 c. Press seam to one side. Double-Stitched Machine Zigzag- A large
seam allowance (up to 1 inch) may be allowed when cutting out the
garment, since finished seam allowance will be 1/8- to1/4inch shorter.
This finish is used on a plain seam on woven fabric. It requires a
sewing machine with a zigzag stitch capability. The finish is used on
medium- to heavyweight fabrics, including corduroy. The zigzag stitch
length (coverage) must be adjusted to accommodate and prevent fabric
raveling. The more the fabric ravels, the closer together the stitches
need to be (tighten or shorten stitch length).

Steps:
1. With right sides of the seam allowances together, prepare a plain
seam. Press it open.
2. Adjust machine to the appropriate zigzag stitch and length.
3. On one seam allowance (single thickness), stitch close to, but not on,
fabric edge (approximately 1/8-inch from raw edge).
4. Trim excess fabric close to the line of stitching. Press. Machine
Zigzag Machine Over-Edge overcast). Some sewing machines have a
special over-edge presser foot and/or machine setting to overcast (sew
over) the edges of the fabric without causing the fabric or thread to jam
the machine. If your machine has this capability, use this stitch instead
of the machine zigzag technique previously described. The overcast
technique does not need to be trimmed, nor allow for larger seam
allowances when cutting out the garment.

 Hand-Overcast This is one of the original methods of finishing seams and

edges dating prior to the invention of the sewing machine. There are
occasions when this edge finish is the most appropriate technique to employ.
Hand-over-cast is used on woven fabrics with straight and curved areas. It is
also good and necessary in areas not suited to other finishing techniques,
such as L-shaped areas (created at a kick pleat) and V-shaped areas (created
when bulk is removed from a princess-line seam). This stitch is done by hand
rather than by machine. Use a hand needle and single thread to match the
fabric color. It is not difficult but it may take some skill to create uniformed
stitches.

Steps:
1. With right sides of the seam allowances together, prepare a plain seam.
Press it open. (This finish can be used with other seams that might require
a finish other than the plain seam, such as the mock flat-fell or the
lapped.)
2. Beginning at the end of one seam allowance edge through single fabric
thickness, secure thread on the underneath side of the seam allowance,
approximately 1/4-inch from the edge.
3. Bring needle through from bottom to top side. Position needle
underneath fabric edge, approximately 3/8-inch away from the first stitch.

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 4. Bring needle and thread through to the right side again. Repeat until the
edge is periodically wrapped in thread. Stitches should be secured to the
fabric edge but not tight. Fabric edge should remain flat and not drawn.
The more the fabric tends to ravel, the closer together your hand stitches
should be. Clean-Finished (turned under and stitched). This finish is used
not only for seams but also throughout the garment when the fabric is
lightweight. It is not appropriate for heavyweight or knit fabrics because it
produces bulk.

Steps:
1. With right sides of the seam allowances together, prepare a plain seam.
Press the seam open.
2. Turn the edge of the seam allowance under approximately 1/8- to1/4-
inch. Press.
3. Stitch close to the edge through the folded fabric. Press. NOTE: Cutting
at least a 1-inch seam allowance will allow a finished 5/8-inch seam
allowance.

What’s New

Activity 1
A. Directions: Assemble the cut parts of the athletic shirts. List down
below the parts you need to match and pin together.

B. Directions: Answer briefly. How do you describe a well-constructed

seam?

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 What is It

Unit Method of Assembling Athletic Shirts

1. Back and front bodice

 Join the shoulder seams using French seam.

 Over lock the raw edge of the armhole to prevent raveling.

 Join the side seams using French seam.

2. Sleeves

 Over lock raw edges of the armhole.

 Join the side seam using the French seam.

 Fold and machine sew 1/8 hem allowance.

 Fold on the hem line and press.

 Slip stitches the hem.

3. Facings

 Join the shoulder seam.

 Fold and machine sew 1/8 the raw edges.

 Connect the facing to the neckline.

 Sew facing hem using slip stitch.

Assembling the Athletic Shirts

Procedure in assembling athletic shirts

Step by step assembling of athletic shirts:

• Join the shoulder with a French seam.

• Attach neckline facing.

• Make a cut slash from the edge to the stitch line.

• Iron the neckline facing.

• Join the side seam.

• Sew sleeve hem.

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• Join arm seam and stitch the armhole.

• Attach the sleeves.

• Flatten the neckline facings.

• Baste the flattened facings on the neckline.

• Overcast neckline facings.

What’s More

Activity2
MATCHING TYPE
Direction: Match Column A (Factors) with Column B (Statements) when selecting
seams and seam finishes. Write the letter of the correct answer in space provided
before the number.

Column A Column B

FACTORS STATEMENTS

1. Sewing Ability Single or double knit

2. Fabric Machine or hand wash

3. Use of garment Curve or straight

4. Care of garment experienced sewer

5. Location of the seam Evening or sportswear

What I Have Learned

Multiple Choices

Direction: Select the best answer and write only the letter on the space provided
before the numbers.

1. This is one of the original methods of finishing seams and edges dating
prior to the invention of the sewing machine.

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 a. Hand-Overcast c. Stayline
b. Seam finished d. Staystitching

2.Typical examples seam finished are the following, except.

a. turned and stitched c. serger
b. double-stitched d. flat-fell

3. It is used for knit fabrics and on seam allowances that are pressed together
to one side and treated as one.
a.Edge Stitched Double-Stitched c. Edge Stitched Single-Stitched
c. Edge Stitching d. Seam Stitching

4. The simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams.
a. French seam c. plain seam
b. French seam d. Edge stitching

5. The French seam is basically a seam within a seam. It is strong and durable
but should be used only on straight edges.
a. French seam c. plain seam
b. French seam d. Edge stitching

What I Can Do

Activity 3:
Direction: Answer the following questions.

A. Why do we need to prepare the parts of athletic shirts before sewing?

B. Prepare and list the tools and materials needed in preparing athletic shirts parts
for sewing. Show how to do the steps discussed in this lesson.

Assessment

Post Test
Multiple Choice

Directions: Read and analyze the questions below. Select and encircle the correct
answer from the letter of your choice.
1. It is used to prevent the edges of the fabric from rolling or curling.

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 A. Seam finished C. Edge Finished
B. Seam stitched D. Edge Stitched

2. One of the unit methods of assembling Athletic Shirts in back and front bodice is .

A.Join the shoulder seams using French seam.

B. Join the side seam using the French seam.
C. Fold and machine sew 1/8 the raw edges.
D. Connect the facing to the neckline.

3. The simplest seam to make and is the basis for many other seams.
A. Hand-overcast C. Flat-fell seam
B. Plain seam D. Seam stitched

4. It is a means by which two pieces of fabric are joined.

A. Basting C. Seam
B. Stitching D. Hem

5. Basically a seam within a seam.

A. French seam C. Edge stitched
B. Flat-fell seam D. Hand-overcast

6. The method of construction is almost always the same and the goal is to prevent a raw edge
from raveling called the .
A. curling fabric C. woven fabric
B. damage fabric D. knit fabric

7. A well-constructed seam finish should; except.

A. be neat and smooth in appearance, without added bulk;
B. protect the area and prevent the edge from raveling, stretching, rolling, or
curling; and
C. not is visible from the right side of the garment.
D. Smooth and even in appearance on the inside and outside parts

8. It is also called flat-felled. It is used in constructing heavy-duty items requiring strong,

durable seams.
A. Hand-overcast C. French seam
B. flat-fell D. Edge stitched
9. Factors when selecting a seam and seam finish are the following, except.
A. Use of garment C. Care of garment
B. Sewing ability and skill D. Planning and designing

10.Seam finishes may also be referred to as “ ” finishes, as they may be used in

locations other than seam allowances.
A. stitch C. facing
B. edge D. design

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 Additional Activities
Research on the different Characteristics of an athletic shirt.

Answer Key

References

Web Sites
Wikipedia.org/wiki/Nightwear
Ref: The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing
http://www.sew-it-love-it.com/reading-patterns.html
The Complete Book of Sewing Pages 36-37
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4968/pattern-layouts
http://www.diceyhome.free online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/patterns/pattern_symbols.htm
Pattern Symbols -Reference http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/aa081199.htm
- Ref: The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Sewing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jgg7UP72Yo
Adapted for use in Kentucky with permission from Coats & Clark.
(Reference Leaflet PE2174) Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.
https://fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/sites/fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/files/ct-lmh-
019.pdf.https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:rKWW5kmg0OMJ:https://fcs-
hes.ca.uky.edu/sites/fcs-hes.ca.uky.edu/files/ct-lmh-019.pdf+&cd=8&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ph

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