COSMETICS LEC

Mrs. Thess | Midterms

SKIN CARE PRODUCTS PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

SKIN ANATOMY

STEPS IN PRODUCT FORMULATION

• Based on Marketing Product Specifications, look for
suitable and trending/novel active ingredient.
o 5 Trending Skincare Ingredients for 2023
▪ Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) The
first of these exciting ingredients
SKIN TYPES
comes in the form of alpha hydroxy
• According to the American Academy of Dermatology
acids.
(AAD), there are five primary types of skin: oily, dry,
▪ Bio Retinol. Retinol (a derivative of
normal, combination, and sensitive.
vitamin A) is already a staple within
• Each skin type has its own set of unique characteristics
many skincare products.
and needs that can affect the look and feel of your
▪ Copper Peptides.
complexion.
▪ Niacinamide.
• Source for supplier of raw materials and packaging
materials.
• Conduct trial formulations
• Conduct Product sampling (in-house)
• Conduct Safety & efficacy Tests
• Develop label design
• Conduct pilot batch production and stability tests
• Register the product with FDA
• Conduct commercial scale production
BASIC CATEGORIES of SKIN CARE PRODUCTS • Distribute the products in the market pipelining
• Cleansers WORKFLOW
• Moisturizers
• Sunscreens
• “Anti-aging”
FORMULATION CONSIDERATION
• Skin care formulation is the art and science of putting
ingredients together for making skincare products that
enable you to design a product that is effective, safe,
and allows to deliver appropriate and relevant results
for a specified skin type.

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 FORMULATION PROTOTYPES • Chelating agents (.05-.1%, also act as preservative
1. Facial wash potentiators): Glutamic acid, N.N-Diacetic acid,
Sodium Phytate
• Fragrance (0-.2%)
4. Sunscreen

2. Facial Toner

SAFETY TESTS
FORMULATION CONSIDERATIONS
• Consider the toxicological profile of the ingredients
• Toxicological data may be obtained from:
o Scientific literature, databases (e.g. Toxline,
Medline), reports issued by the US Cosmetic
Ingredient Review (CIR) program, the EU
Scientific Committee on Consumer Products
(SCCP) or the ASEAN Cosmetic Scientific
3. Facial Moisturizer Body (ACSB), the Research Institute for
• Water (60-75%) Fragrance Materials (RIFM) monographs,
• Humectants (3-20%): Glycerin is most commonly used reports by ECETOC, NTP, BIBRA, etc.;
but can be quite tacky when used over 5%. Many top o Safety Data Sheets
performing products use Hydroxyethylurea • Consider the toxicological profile of the ingredients
(Hydrovance-Akzo Nobel) combined with Glycerin due • All ingredients in the formula should be allowed for use
to its superior skin feel and hydration. for cosmetic products based on ACD guidelines
• Emollients (5-15%): historically most hand and body 1. Ingredients prohibited under the ASEAN Cosmetics
lotion formulations used Isopropyl Isostearate for Directive in Annex II (Banned Ingredients)
improved hydration 2. Ingredients restricted under the Cosmetics Directive
o Isostearyl Isostearate for reduced TEWL when used beyond the allowed conditions and
o C12-13 Lactate for stimulating epidermal restrictions laid down in Annex III
lipids production and hydration 3. Ingredients with toxicological data incompatible with
• Skin barrier building actives (0-2%): These ingredients the intended concentration and use;
include Ceramides. Another approach has been to use 4. Ingredients which do not have sufficient toxicological
ingredients such as Niacinamide and Eucalyptus data and/or safety in use experience;
Globulus Leaf Extract to promote the production of 5. Ingredients which are not properly characterized either
epidermal lipids in skin. chemically or through the extraction process for natural
• High Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) extracts
Emulsifiers(0.2-2%): Cetearyl Glucoside, PEG 100 6. For colouring agents, preservatives and/or UV filters,
Stearate, Distearyl Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, ingredients must be substances listed in Annexes IV,
Ceteareth 20, PEG 40 Stearate VI or VII respectively, within the limits and under the
• Low HLB emulsifiers (2-7%): Cetearyl alcohol, Stearyl restrictions laid down in these annexes (Restricted
alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Ingredients)
• Polymeric stabilizers (.1-1%): Xanthan gum, PATCH TEST
Carbomer, and Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate • a diagnostic exam to determine whether specific
Crosspolymer products result in skin irritation or an allergic reaction.
• Preservatives (0.5-1%): Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl • The reading and interpretation of test results, whether
alcohol, Benzalkonium Chloride positive or negative, are a complex process that
• Preservative potentiators (.05-2%): Ethylhexy requires training and experience, considering their
Glycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexanediol, Pentylene relevance and associating it with the clinical history of
Glycol, contact dermatitis (CD).

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 OCULAR TEST SKIN WHITENING EQUIPMENT
• BCOP - Bovine Cornea Opacity and Permeability Test; • Chromameter
• FLT or TEP - Fluorescein Leakage Test or Trans o provides a quick, easy and accurate method
Epithelial Permeability to measure melanin and erythema in the skin.
• HET-CAM - Hen’s Egg Test - Chorioallantoic • Mexameter
Membrane; o an instrument used to measure or quantify
• RBC - Red Blood Cell Test; • TEA - Tissue Equivalent skin color.
Assay SPF DETERMINATION
MICROBIOLOGICAL TEST • a measure of how much solar energy (UV radiation) is
• each batch of manufactured cosmetic product is tested required to produce sunburn on protected skin relative
for presence or absence of microorganism to ensure to the amount of solar energy required to produce
the product is not contaminated and will not cause skin sunburn on unprotected skin.
irritation. • As the SPF value increases, sunburn protection
EFFICACY TESTS increases.
CLEANSER MILDNESS • Validation of SPF in vivo is made through an artificial
• forearm controlled application technique (FCAT) source of UVR on human subjects.
developed by Keith Ertel SPF Formula:
• This test controls the amount of cleanser applied, the MED – Minimum Erythema Dose
length of cleansing, and the frequency of testing.
• If no irritation is observed with the cleanser under
exaggerated use conditions, it is felt to be safe to put
the cleanser into the clinic under normal use
conditions.

MOISTURE TEST
• Uses Regression technique
o Test for skin hydration using corneometer
• The corneometer measures the amount of water in the
skin by looking at the skin conductivity of a low voltage
current. Increased skin water will be reflected in an
increased corneometry reading.
• A successful moisturizer will demonstrate improvement
visible to the dermatologist, no tolerability issues,
excellent subject reviews, and increasing corneometry
measurements with continued use.
WHITENING TEST
• Measurements include:
o Evaluation of skin pigmentation (presence
and size of dark spots)
o Evaluation of melanin content.
o Evaluation of skin elasticity/firmness.
o Evaluation of skin hydration