#lockdownamichallenge - No 38 - Seagull

Yarn
Aldi So Crafty Knit & Purl Amigurumi Yarn - described on the box as "Light" - Equivalent to DK.

20g approx of Pale Grey (or White if you have it) (MC) for Body.
15g approx of Mid Grey (CC1) Body, Legs and Wings.
5g approx of Dark Grey (CC2) for Wings and Tail.
5g approx of Blue (CC3) for Body.
5g approx of Yellow (CC4) for Beak and Feet.
5g approx of Orange (CC5) for Hat.
Small amount of Black (CC6) for Eyes.

100% Cotton 25g = 57.5m

A cotton yarn works well for Ami as it gives good stitch definition and creates a firm structure so
body parts hold their shape well. Any cotton/cotton mix DK should give similar results.

Hook
3 mm

Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn.

Tension
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing
through.

© Pia Simpson 2021 1 mycrochetchums.com

Size
Approx 20cm (8in) from top of hat to feet.

Pattern Notes
Unless otherwise specified this pattern is worked in the amigurumi style, in a continuous spiral
without slip stitching or turning chains.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round.

If you do not want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then
work the first round into the second chain from the hook.

If you would like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial at:
https://www.mycrochetchums.com/magic-ring-photo-tutorial.html

The Seagull is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each
piece by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the
end can be easily woven in.

Increasing and decreasing

The “invisible” techniques below are recommended to give your amigurumi a neat finish:

Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both
front loops, yrh, draw through two loops on hook.

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please
familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!

The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch
in US terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet
everywhere this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished
item will be elongated and the stuffing will show through.

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart at: https://
www.mycrochetchums.com/ukus-crochet-terms.html

If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, you can find a chart of the UK
Crochet terms used at: https://www.mycrochetchums.com/uk-abbreviations.html

© Pia Simpson 2021 2 mycrochetchums.com

Body
Worked from top of Head down. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-10: Dc around.
Change to CC3.
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc, change to MC, 23 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 2 dc, change to CC3, 22 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 16: Dc around.
Rnd 17: 3 dc, change to MC, 21 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: 4 dc, change to CC3, 20 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: 5 dc, change to MC, 19 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 22: Dc around.
Rnd 23: 6 dc, 7 ch, starting in second ch from hook, 6 dc down ch, 18 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 24: 6 dc, 6 dc in the unused back loops of chain, 2 ch, 24 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 25: 12 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp, 24 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 26: 12 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times, 24 dc. 42 sts
Rnd 27: 12 dc, 3 dc2tog, 24 dc. 39 sts
Rnd 28: 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, change to CC1, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog, 5 dc. 36 sts
Rnd 29: 11 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 15 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 33 sts
Rnd 30: 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 13 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc. 30 sts
Rnd 31: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 27 sts
Rnd 32: 9 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 10 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnd 33: 8 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 9 dc, 1 dc2tog. 21 sts
Rnd 34: 7 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 35: [1 dc, 1 dc2tof] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 36: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts

Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull up to close hole. Weave in end.

© Pia Simpson 2021 3 mycrochetchums.com

Beak
Worked from front to back. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnds 3-7: Dc around.

Fasten off.

Wings - make 2
Worked flat.

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Change to CC2.
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts

Fasten off. Fold in half to form semi-circle, stuff lightly and stitch closed around the curved edge.

Legs - make 2
Stuff lightly as you go. Worked from bottom of leg upwards.

Rnd 1: With CC1 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: Working in BLO, dc around.
Rnds 3-9: Dc around.

Fasten off.

Feet - make 2
Do not stuff. Worked from back of Foot to front.

Rnd 1: With CC4 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: Dc around.
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 12 sts
Rnd 5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.

Fasten off. Flatten foot in half and sew the open edge closed, weave in end.

© Pia Simpson 2021 4 mycrochetchums.com

Tail Plumes - short - make 2
Stuff lightly as you go. Worked from tip to base.

Rnd 1: With CC2 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Rnds 4-5: Dc around.

Fasten off.

Tail Plume - long - make 1

Stuff lightly as you go. Worked from tip to base.

Rnds 1-5: Work as for the short Tail Plumes above.

Rnds 6-7: Dc around.

Fasten off.

Eyes - make 2
Rnd 1: With CC6 and working into a magic ring, 4 dc, sl st in beg dc to join. 4 sts

Fasten off.

Hat
Made in two parts - hat and bobble.

To make Hat:
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 15 sts
Rnd 4-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: Working in FLO, dc around.
Rnds 9-10: Dc around.

Fasten off.

To make Bobble:
Rnd 1: With CC5 and working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts

Fasten off. Sew Bobble on to top of Hat.

© Pia Simpson 2021 5 mycrochetchums.com

Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together first, checking from all angles to make
sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with a yarn
needle to stitch the pieces together.

Sew the Beak onto the Body so that it sits just above the top coloured stripe.

Sew the Eyes either side of the Beak, a couple of Rnds higher and about 6 stitches apart.

Sew the Wings either side of the Body, attaching them just above the lowest coloured stripe.

Sew the Tail Plumes in place on the Seagull’s bottom, with the longest one in the middle.

Sew the Legs on to the base of the Seagull, set forward slightly to enable him to sit down.

Sew the Feet onto the bottom of the Legs, making sure that the long edge is facing forwards.

Sew the Hat onto the top of the head at an angle.

Embroidered Details

Using the photos as a guide with a yarn needle, use MC to embroider the single stitch highlight
on the Eyes.

All done!

Please see Terms of Use on following page - thanks!

© Pia Simpson 2021 6 mycrochetchums.com

Terms of Use

I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an
individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the designer.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished
item complies with the relevant toy legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be
a danger to small children.

The patterns are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. They cannot be sold,
transmitted, distributed or reproduced in any form or by any means. I’ve worked hard to create
the designs - please don’t sell my patterns - it’s just plain mean!

About mycrochetchums

I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown
and to make creative use of a box of Aldi Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was
feeling guilty about!

I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I
wrangle with managing a website and social media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any
feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.

You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on)
please email me at: [email protected] - I’ll do my best to help!

Happy Crocheting!

Pia x

© Pia Simpson 2021 7 mycrochetchums.com