™

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wing Span - 44-3/4 in

Wing Area - 305.7 sq in IN
DE
Weight - 9.5 – 13.5 oz MAA
Wing Loading - 4.5 – 6.4 oz/sq ft US
Fuse Length - 28-5/8 in

WARRANTY

Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both materials and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL FIRST. IT

CONTAINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS AND
WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY
AND USE OF THIS MODEL. P.O. Box 788 Urbana, IL 61803 (217) 398-8970
WWW.GREATPLANES.COM
© Copyright 2002 ADTRP03 for GPMA0002 V1.1
 impromptu flying site (see “Find a Safe Place to Fly” on
TABLE OF CONTENTS page 22). Additionally, Park Flyers are perfect for those
INTRODUCTION .......................................................................................2
evenings at the field when everybody else is packing up
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .........................................................................2 their gear, the wind has died, and there is still enough light
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ...............................................................3 to fly a small, slow model that can be kept close-in.
Radio Equipment ...............................................................................3
Speed Control....................................................................................3
Motor System.....................................................................................3 The Tutor Trainer is a slow flying, high-wing model that is
Battery Recommendations ................................................................3 about as simple to build as they get. However, if you have
Chargers ............................................................................................4 never flown an R/C model before, learning to fly the Tutor all
Covering ............................................................................................4 by yourself is not recommended. As with any trainer
Building Board ...................................................................................4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.............................................................4 airplane, you should find an experienced modeler to help
Building Supplies ...............................................................................4 you with your first flights. Information about R/C clubs and
Optional Supplies and Tools ..............................................................4 instructors is provided later in this manual.
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES .............................................................5
Patterns.............................................................................................6
Metric Conversions ...........................................................................6
Metric/Inch Scale...............................................................................6
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES..................................................................7 PROTECT YOUR MODEL,YOURSELF
BUILD THE WING ....................................................................................8 & OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE
Build the Wing Panels.......................................................................8
JOIN THE WING PANELS .....................................................................10 IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Build the Ailerons ............................................................................11
BUILD THE FUSELAGE ........................................................................12
Build the Formers............................................................................12
Frame the Aft End of the Fuselage.................................................13
Frame the Front End of the Fuselage.............................................14 Attention: The product you have purchased
COVER THE MODEL .............................................................................15 is powered by a rechargeable battery. At the
Suggested Covering Sequence ......................................................15 end of its useful life, under various state and
Add Washout...................................................................................15
FINAL ASSEMBLY .................................................................................16 local laws, it may be illegal to dispose of this
Join the Tail Surfaces......................................................................16 battery into the municipal waste system.
Hook Up the Controls......................................................................17 Check with your local solid waste officials for details in your
Mount the Landing Gear .................................................................18 area for recycling options or proper disposal.
Assemble the Gear Drive................................................................18
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING ..................................................19
Balance the Model ..........................................................................19 This product contains a chemical known to the State of
Set the Control Throws ...................................................................20 California to cause cancer and birth defects or other
PREFLIGHT ............................................................................................21
reproductive harm.
Charge the Batteries .......................................................................21
Identify Your Model .........................................................................21
Ground Inspection...........................................................................21 1. Even though the Great Planes Tutor Trainer is small,
Range Check ..................................................................................21 lightweight and flies slowly, if it is not assembled and
PERFORMANCE TIPS ...........................................................................21
Cycle the Batteries..........................................................................21
operated correctly it could possibly cause injury to yourself
Examine the Propeller.....................................................................22 or spectators and damage property.
Motor Care ......................................................................................22
Oil the Wheels.................................................................................22 2. Build the plane according to the plans and instructions.
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ........................................................22
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt) .............................................................22
Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY...............................................................23 an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions
FLYING ...................................................................................................23 may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the
Takeoff.............................................................................................23 plans and written instructions should be considered as
Flight ...............................................................................................23
Landing ...................................................................Back Cover Page correct.
ROG (Rise Off Ground) Takeoff..............................Back Cover Page
2-VIEW DRAWING........................................................Back Cover Page 3. Take time to build straight, true and strong.
FUSE & WING PLANS ......................................Center Pull-Out Section
4. Use an R/C radio system that is in first-class condition.
This Park Flyer requires micro servos, a micro receiver and
INTRODUCTION a micro speed control able to handle 5 amps.

5. You must properly install all R/C and other components so

Congratulations and thank you for purchasing the Great that the model operates properly on the ground and in the air.
Planes Tutor™ Trainer. The Tutor is one in a series of Park
Flyers from Great Planes designed to be flown in small 6. You must test the operation of the model before every
areas. Park Flyers are a relatively new class of small, flight to insure that all equipment is operating, and that the
lightweight, slow-flying, fast-building models. Since Park model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
Flyers are small and fly slowly, little space is required. A connectors often and replace them if they show signs of
nearby park, schoolyard or vacant lot becomes an wear or fatigue.
2
 Radio Equipment
Note: We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top The Tutor requires a micro receiver and two micro servos.
quality kit and great instructions, but ultimately the Futaba® S3103 (FUTM0037) or Hobbico® CS-5 (HCAM0090)
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on micro servos are suitable.
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, The Tutor may be built either with or without ailerons. Ailerons
and no representations are expressed or implied as to are not necessary, because the Tutor flies well without them.
the performance or safety of your completed model. Less experienced pilots should build the Tutor without
ailerons. However, some modelers insist on flying with
ailerons, so this option is covered in the instructions. No
Remember: Take your time and follow directions to end additional materials are required to build the Tutor with
up with a well-built model that is straight and true. ailerons except for a third micro servo and a #68 (or 1/32")
[.8mm] drill bit.
If you’re an inexperienced modeler, we recommend that
you get assistance from an experienced, If flying the Tutor without ailerons, a three (or more) channel
knowledgeable modeler to help you with assembly and radio may be used. If flying the Tutor with ailerons, a four (or
your first flights. You’ll learn faster and avoid risking your more) channel radio will be required.
model before you’re truly ready to solo. Your local hobby
Speed Control
shop has information about flying clubs in your area whose An electronic speed control with BEC (Battery Eliminator
membership includes qualified instructors. Circuitry) is required. The BEC allows both the motor and the
radio system to be powered by the same battery (thus
You can also contact the national Academy of Model eliminating an additional battery typically required to power
Aeronautics (AMA), which has more than 2,500 chartered the radio). The Great Planes ElectriFly™ C-5 Nano™ High
clubs across the country. Through any one of them, Frequency Electronic Speed Control (GPMM2000) is
instructor training programs and insured newcomer training recommended for the Tutor. If you purchase the complete
are available. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free motor and gear drive system, the speed control is included
phone number below. (refer to the “Motor System” section that follows).

Academy of Model Aeronautics Motor System

5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org

Before starting to build, compare the parts in this kit

with the Parts List, and note any missing parts. Also
inspect all parts to make sure they are of acceptable
quality. If any parts are missing, broken or defective, or
if you have any questions about building or flying this
airplane, please call us at (217) 398-8970 or e-mail us at: The Tutor is designed to use the Great Planes ElectriFly
T-280GD ESC motor system and gear drive for electric flight
[email protected]. (GPMG0430). This system includes a T-280 Ferrite Motor,
S-280 4.1:1 ratio gearbox, 3mm prop adapter, APC 10 x 4.7
propeller and the ElectriFly C-5 Nano High Frequency
If you are contacting us for replacement parts, please Electronic Speed Control w/BEC. The same components are
be sure to provide the full kit name GP Tutor and the also available without the speed control by ordering number
part numbers as listed in the Parts List. GPMG0445.

You can also check our web site at www.greatplanes.com Battery recommendations
for the latest GP Tutor updates. There are mainly two kinds of battery packs used for electric
R/C models; nickel-metal hydride (NiMh) packs, and nickel-
cadmium (NiCd, pronounced ny-cad) packs. NiMh batteries
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE are recommended for the Tutor because they provide nearly
twice the capacity of a NiCd for their size. However, it should
be noted that nickel-metal hydrides cannot be charged as fast
as NiCds.
This is a list of items required to finish the Tutor that must
be purchased separately. For some of these items there is Each individual cell that makes up a battery is 1.2 volts.
more than one option which will require a bit of decision Simply stated, a volt is the amount of power a battery pack
making ahead of time. Order numbers (in parentheses) can deliver (a 6-cell battery pack is 7.2 volts). Batteries are
are provided for your convenience. also rated by their capacity in mAh (milli-Amp-hours), or how
3
much energy they store. A 550 mAh battery can supply 1 as that of the Tutor. EconoKote also has an adhesive on the
Ampere for .55 hours (about 30-minutes). A 1200 mAh battery back which is activated by the heat of a model airplane
pack is about twice the size of a 550 mAh battery pack. covering iron.

These are the battery packs recommended for the Tutor: Coverite Micafilm is another covering suitable for lightweight
structures (and is the covering that is on the model featured
Panasonic 6-cell 550 mAh NiMh pack (GPMP0100) for on the box label). Micafilm has fibers imbedded in the film and
beginners due to its light weight. is exceptionally strong, yet remains lightweight because it has
no adhesive on the back. Therefore, you must apply an
Panasonic 7-cell 550 mAh NiMh pack (GPMP0101) for adhesive to the structure before application. Use Coverite
advanced pilots who are capable of flying in slightly windier Balsarite™ (COVR2500) for Micafilm. Do not use Balsarite “film
conditions. formula” to apply Micafilm.

Chargers Transparent MonoKote film is also suitable for covering the

The best type of charger to use is a peak charger, because it Tutor, because it is lighter and does not shrink as tightly as
charges the batteries until they are fully charged, then opaque MonoKote film. Opaque MonoKote film is not
automatically switches to a trickle charge mode. The Great Planes recommended for the Tutor because it is too heavy and
ElectriFly™ Peak Charger (GPMM3000) is suitable for nickel- shrinks too tightly for the structure to withstand.
metal hydride batteries, NiCds and transmitter battery packs.
Building Board
If you have another type of charger that is not a peak charger, You will need a flat board to lay over your workbench that you
you will have to calculate the length of time it takes to charge can stick pins into. The back of a 2' x 4' ceiling tile or a section
the batteries yourself, then turn the charger off when the cut from a sheet of Celotex insulation board is ideal.
batteries are fully charged. Overcharging the batteries may
damage them. Before you can calculate the time it takes to
charge a battery pack, you first have to know the charge rate ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
you are going to use. Nickel-metal hydrides must be charged
at a rate of no more than 1/10 of their capacity. For the 550
mAh batteries recommended for the Tutor this would be a
charge rate of approximately 50 mAh. Divide the capacity of Building Supplies
the battery pack by the charge rate to calculate the charge
time. A discharged 550 mAh battery pack charged at 50 mAh In addition to the equipment listed in the “Decisions You
will take 11 hours to charge.
Must Make” section, the following is a “short list” of the
most important building supplies required to build the Tutor.
Charge rate/time recommendations:
We recommend Great Planes Pro™ CA and Epoxy glue.
Charge the 6-cell 550 mAh battery pack at 50 mAh for ❏ 1/2 oz. thin Pro CA (GPMR6001)
11 hours.
Charge the 7-cell 550 mAh battery pack at 50 mAh for
❏ 1/2 oz. medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
11 hours.
❏ Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
Charge the 7-cell 1200 mAh battery pack at 100 mAh for ❏ #11 blades (HCAR0211)
12 hours. ❏ Single-edge razor blades (HCAR0212)
❏ Small T-pins (HCAR5100)
IMPORTANT: Monitor the temperature of the battery ❏ Builder’s triangle (HCAR0480)
frequently. If the battery becomes warm, disconnect it from ❏ Electric drill and 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit
the charger. ❏ Small phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
❏ Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0630)
A Hobbico R/C Multi-Charger (HCAP0100) is suitable for ❏ Great Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper
charging the battery packs used in the Park Flyers. ❏ Sanding tools and sandpaper assortment
Note: The period required to charge the batteries in the
❏ Sealing iron (TOPR2100)
examples above is for discharged batteries. If the battery you ❏ Double-sided foam tape (GPMQ4440) for mounting
are going to charge is not discharged (and you are not using servos
a peak-charger), connect it to the motor on your model. Run ❏ Great Planes Hook & Loop Material (GPMQ4880)
the motor until the propeller is turning slowly, thus discharging
the battery. Optional Supplies & Tools
Covering
Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
There are several types of covering that may be used on the
will help you build the Tutor.
Tutor, and a few that are not recommended. Use a covering
suitable for lightweight models. Top Flite® EconoKote® and
Coverite™ Micafilm™ are suitable for the Tutor. EconoKote is ❏ Great Planes C.G. Machine (GPMR2400)
™

similar to MonoKote® (used on most regular-size sport ❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
® ™

models), except EconoKote is lighter and does not shrink as (TOPQ5700)

tightly, thus making it suitable for lightweight structures such ❏ Top Flite Hot Sock ™
iron cover (TOPR2175)
4
 ❏ Straightedge with scale (HCAR0475) technique. Insert the T-pins into the building board in a
❏ Cutting mat (HCAR0456) cris-cross fashion to hold the sticks to the plan.
❏ Masking tape (TOPR8018)
❏ CA Debonder (GPMR6039) 5. Only a small amount of CA should be used to glue the
❏ CA Applicator tips (GPMR6033) parts together. Use the included CA applicator tips to control
❏ Great Planes 5-1/2" [140mm] Bar Sander (GPMR6169) and pinpoint the amount of CA that comes from the bottle.
and 150-grit adhesive back sandpaper (GPMR6183) When the tip becomes clogged, cut the tip off and continue.
❏ Top Flite 320-grit sandpaper (TOPR8030) and 400- In addition to unnecessary weight, excess CA is difficult to
grit sandpaper (TOPR8032) sand. If you require additional CA tips, order no.
GPMR6033, (qty. 5).

6. When applying CA, be careful to not glue your fingers to

the structure. In the process of unsticking your fingers you
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES can inadvertently damage the structure, thus requiring
repairs and adding additional weight (not to mention the
aggravation)!
For the best performance, the Tutor must be built light. One
of the best ways to insure light weight is to build neatly and 7. Sanding requires a light touch to avoid damage. We
make good-fitting glue joints that require less glue. Here are found the best method for sanding is to use light strokes in
some tips to help you build neatly and light. the direction of the longest sticks. Be certain the sandpaper
is thoroughly bonded to the bar sander. Lifted edges will
catch the structure, causing damage. Use medium-grit
sandpaper such as 120 or 150.

8. One of the best ways to insure a lightweight model is to

proceed slowly and build neatly. Good glue joints with
minimal adhesive are stronger, lighter and have a better
appearance than poor-fitting joints with too much CA. Of
course, you should take this approach with all of your projects!

9. Work over a flat surface. Cover the plans with Great

Planes Plan Protector (GPMR6167) or wax paper so the
1. The easiest way to cut balsa sticks is with a single-edge parts will not adhere to the plan.
razor blade. To do so, position the stick over the plan, then
place the razor blade on the stick where you wish to cut it. 10. If you would like to remove the charred edges from the
Press down lightly on the razor blade to make a mark where laser cut parts, use a cloth that has been damped with bleach.
the stick is to be cut.

2. Take the stick off the plan and cut it over a cutting mat or
a scrap piece of wood (Okay, if you’re careful you could go
ahead and cut the stick right over the plan, but if you do, you
may cut through the plan protector, allowing the CA to soak
through and glue the structure to the plan).

3. Because of the small balsa sticks used in the tail, small

T-pins may be used to hold the sticks to your building board,
but only where necessary. Use small T-pins (HCAR5100)
or small straight pins found in craft stores. Do not stick pins
into the sticks near the ends, or the wood may split.

4. If you have difficulty with the T-pins splitting the small

sticks, an alternate method is to use the “crossed-pin”
5
 PATTERNS

Metric Conversions
1/64" = .4mm 3/16" = 4.8mm 1" = 25.4mm 18" = 457.2mm
1/32" = .8mm 1/4" = 6.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 21" = 533.4mm
1/16" = 1.6mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 3" = 76.2mm 24" = 609.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 6" = 152.4mm 30" = 762mm
1/8" = 3.2mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 12" = 304.8mm 36" = 914.4mm
5/32" = 4mm 3/4" = 19mm 15" = 381mm

Inch Scale
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"

0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160 170 180

Metric Scale
6
 ❏ 4. Sand a bevel on the leading edge of the rudder as
BUILD THE TAIL SURFACES shown in the cross-section on the plan.

❏ 1. Unroll the plan sheets. Reroll them inside-out so they

will lie flat. Place the fin/rudder portion of the fuse plan over
your flat building board, then cover it with Great Planes Plan
Protector or waxed paper so glue will not adhere to the plan.

❏ 5. Use a #11 blade to cut the notch in the rudder where

shown on the plan for the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] plywood
control horn. Glue the control horn into the notch on the
left side of the rudder. Note: Use a pin to enlarge the holes
for the pushrod, if needed.

❏ 2. Build the fin and the rudder from two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24"
[3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Hint: When cutting the
“ribs” (the horizontal sticks), start with the longest ones first.
If you accidentally cut one too short, use it for the shorter rib
above it, thus minimizing wasted material.
❏ 3. Remove the fin and rudder from the plan. Use a bar
sander with 150-grit sandpaper to carefully sand both sides ❏ 6. Build the stab and elevators from the four 1/8" x 1/8" x
of the fin and rudder flat and even. Round the corners as 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Do not join the elevators
shown on the plan. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then with the 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel until instructed to do so.
round the leading edge and top of the fin and the trailing
edge and top of the rudder. ❏ 7. The same as you did the fin and rudder, sand the stab
and elevators flat and even, then round the corners where
shown on the plan. Round the tips of the stab and elevators
and round the leading edge of the stab and the trailing edge
of the elevators. Bevel the leading edge of both elevators as
shown in the cross-section on the plan.

❏ 8. Pin both elevators to the plan. Make the elevator

joiner by trimming the 1/8" x 3" [3.2 x 75mm] hardwood
dowel to the correct length. Use medium CA to securely
To round the edges of the tail pieces, place one of them
glue the elevator joiner to both elevators.
on your workbench so the edge you are rounding extends
just beyond the edge of the bench. Use a bar sander to
hold it down. Use another bar sander to do the sanding.
❏ 9. Remove the elevators from the plan. Use a #11 blade
followed by a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to bevel
7
the elevator joiner to match the leading edge of the
elevators.

❏ ❏ 4. Pin one of the 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" [.8 x 19 x 610mm]

balsa trailing edge sheets in position over the plan,
aligning one end of the trailing edge sheet with the outside
❏ 10. Use a #11 blade to cut the slot for the control horn, edge of the root rib W-1.
then glue the control horn into position on the bottom of the
elevator.

BUILD THE WING

Build the Wing Panels

Start by building the left wing panel first so your progress

matches the photos.

❏ 1. Cover the left wing panel plan with Great Planes Plan
Protector.
❏❏ 5. Starting at the wing tip, glue the seven laser-cut
1/16" [1.6mm] balsa W-1 and one W-1A ribs over the main
spar and trailing edge sheet, perpendicular to the building
board. IMPORTANT: Do not install the W-1A root rib until
the next step.

❏ ❏ 2. Match the 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm] balsa

main spars so any warps will counteract each other.

❏ ❏ 6. Position the W-1A root rib in place over the main

spar. Use the laser-cut 1/8" [3.2mm] ply dihedral gauge to
set the rib at the proper angle before gluing it to the main
spar and the trailing edge sheet.

❏ ❏ 3. Pin one of the main spars in position over the plan, ❏ ❏ 7. Position the top 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm]
aligning one end of the main spar with the outside edge of balsa main spar in the rib notches with one end flush with
the root rib W-1. the outside edge of the root rib and glue to all the ribs.
8
❏ ❏ 8. Cut one of the 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 610mm] hardwood
dowels so that it fits in the notches at the front of the wing ❏ ❏ 11. From a 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" [.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa
ribs, from the root to the tip rib.Save the leftover dowel for sheet, cut and glue shear webs, horizontally, to the top and
the fuselage. Glue the dowel to the ribs. bottom spars in the locations shown on the plan. Make sure
they are glued securely to the wing spars and ribs. Do not
install shear webs in the rib bay between the W-1A ribs.

❏❏ 9. To make a top trailing edge sheet, draw a line ❏❏ 12. From a 1/32" x 3" x 15" [.8 x 75 x 380mm] balsa
1/16" [1.6mm] from the edge of a second 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" sheet, cut pieces to make the top center sheeting to fit
[.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa sheet. Sand a taper along the edge between the wing spar and trailing edge sheet and between
up to the line. The sheet should fit in the notches at the the wing spar and the leading edge dowel. When satisfied
trailing edge of the wing ribs and blend into the bottom with the fit, apply medium CA to the top of the W-1A ribs and
trailing edge sheet. Hint: To avoid breaking the trailing edge press the sheeting in place.
sheet when sanding the taper, sand across the grain, not
lengthwise. ❏ ❏ 13. Carefully sand the top center sheeting flush with
the wing spar, leading edge dowel and trailing edge sheet.

❏ ❏ 14. Use the wing tip brace pattern on the plan to make
❏❏ 10. Glue the top trailing edge sheet to the top of the the wing tip brace from leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa. Glue
wing ribs and the bottom trailing edge sheet. the wing tip brace into position.
9
 ❏ 2. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot
in ribs W-1A, just behind the main spar. Test fit the dihedral
❏❏ 15. Remove the wing from your building board and brace in the slots.
carefully sand off any glue blobs. From the remaining 1/32"
x 3" x 15" [.8 x 75 x 380mm] balsa sheet, cut pieces to make
bottom center sheeting to fit between the leading edge
dowel and wing spar and from the wing spar to the trailing
edge sheet.

❏ ❏ 16. Cut and sand the wing spars and trailing edge
sheeting flush with the wing tip rib.

❏ 17. Return to step 2 and build the right wing panel.

Remember! Build it over the right wing plan.

❏ 3. Test fit the wing halves together. With one wing half flat
on your building board, block-up the wing tip of the other
wing half so that it is 4-1/2" [114mm] off of your building
board. Use a bar sander to sand the center joint as
necessary until the wing halves fit together without any gap.

❏ 4. When satisfied with the fit, apply medium CA to the

face of half of the dihedral brace. Insert the dihedral brace
into one of the wing halves so that the brace is attached to
the two main spars. After the CA has cured, apply medium
CA to the face of the other half of the dihedral brace and the
JOIN THE WING PANELS root rib. With one wing half flat on your building board and
the wing tip of the other wing half blocked up as before,
quickly slide the two wing halves together. Before the CA
hardens, make sure the trailing edges are aligned. Note: If
you prefer more working time for joining the wings, use
epoxy for this step.

❏ 5. Sand the leading and trailing edges of the wing joint flush.

❏ 6. Use the wing tip template on the wing plan to make

❏ 1. Draw a centerline on the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply two wing tips from the unused portion of 1/16" [1.6mm]
dihedral brace. balsa that the fuselage sides came from.
10
❏ 7. Glue one wing tip to each end of the wing. Round the ❏ ❏ C. Make the final bend, then cut the wire to the length
corners slightly as shown on the plan. shown on the plan. Be certain the horizontal portion of the
torque rod is perpendicular to the vertical portion of the rod
If you plan to fly your Tutor with rudder only, proceed to that goes into the aileron.
“Build the Fuselage.” If you plan to fly your Tutor with
ailerons, follow the proceeding instructions to build the ❏ ❏ 2. Cut one of the 1/16" x 3/4" x 24" [1.6 x 19 x 610mm]
ailerons. balsa ailerons to the length shown on the wing plan. Drill a
#68 (or 1/32") [.8mm] hole into the leading edge of the
aileron where shown on the plan for the aileron torque rod.

Build the Ailerons

❏ ❏ 1. Using the drawings on the wing plan, follow the

procedure below to make a left aileron torque rod from
one of the .030" x 20" [.76 x 508mm] wires.

❏ ❏ 3. Cut a notch in the leading edge of the aileron

between the hole you drilled and the end to accommodate
the torque rod. Glue the torque rod to the aileron with
medium CA.

❏ 4. Return to step 1 and make the right aileron torque rod

and aileron the same way.

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

❏ ❏ A. Cut 1" [25mm] from one end of the .030" x 20" [.76
x 508mm] wire and clamp it in a vice. Make a loop near one
end of the remaining wire by pulling it around the wire
clamped in the vice.

❏ 5. Temporarily tape both ailerons to the wing. Glue the

laser cut ply servo horn to the plastic servo horn included
with your servo, then connect the pushrods as shown on the
plan. With this servo horn, the ailerons will travel up more
than down, reducing adverse yaw, which is the tendency for
❏ ❏ B. Cut the excess wire from the loop, then use the drawing the nose of the model to turn away from the direction of
on the plan to make the next bend as shown in the photo. banked turns.
11
❏ 6. Cut the bottom sheeting for the aileron servo, so that
the servo can be mounted to the side of the center rib.

❏ 7. Clean the aileron servo case with a tissue dampened

with alcohol or other suitable solvent. Mount the aileron
servo to the side of the center rib with double-sided foam
mounting tape (GPMQ4440, not included).

❏ 8. Use the remainder of the .030" [.76mm] wire you used

for the torque rods to make the aileron pushrods. Note that ❏ E. Cut the excess wire near the end.
the pushrods are connected to the torque rods with a “Z-bend” Note: This procedure does not work for all types of wire, but
on both ends. If you do not have Z-bend pliers, or do not will work on the thin music wire supplied with this kit.
know how to make a Z-bend with regular pliers, follow the
procedure below. (For clarity, larger wire than is supplied ❏ 9. Connect the aileron servo to the aileron torque rods
with this kit was used in the photos.) with the pushrods you just made.

❏ A. Make the first 90° bend near one end of the wire.

BUILD THE FUSELAGE

❏ B. Hold the wire in the pliers as shown.
Build the Formers

❏ 1. Cover the fuselage former drawings on the plan with

Great Planes Plan Protector.

❏ C. Make the second 90° bend downward.

❏ 2. Use the remaining 1/8" x 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm]

balsa sticks to build formers F2 through F6 over the plan.
Hint: First cut the vertical sticks a little long, then pin them to
the plan. Next, cut and glue the horizontal sticks into position.
Lastly, trim the ends of the vertical sticks even with the
horizontal sticks.

❏ 3. Remove the formers from the plan and use a bar

❏ D. Make the final 90° bend upward to form the “Z.” sander with 150-grit sandpaper to sand them flat and even.
12
 Frame the Aft End of the Fuselage

❏ 1. Cover the top view of the fuse plan with Plan Protector.

❏ 5. Cut the forward pushrod exit slot in the right fuse side
where shown on the plan. Cut the aft pushrod exit slot in the
other laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fuselage side where
shown on the plan, which is now the left side.

❏ 6. Position both fuselage sides against the formers on

the fuse bottom over the plan. Make certain the right fuse
side is on the right, and the left fuse side is on the left.
❏ 2. Pin the laser-cut 1/32" [0.8mm] balsa aft fuse bottom
over the top view of the fuselage plan. Use a ballpoint pen
and a straightedge to mark the location of formers F3, F4
and F5 on the aft fuse bottom.

❏ 3. Glue formers F3, F4 and F5 to the aft fuse bottom. Use

a small builder’s square to make certain the formers are
perpendicular to the fuse bottom.

❏ 7. Accurately align the fuse sides, so the notches for the stab
align with the top of former F5 and the notches for the wing align
with the top of former F3. Holding the fuse sides in position, use
a small builder’s square to make certain F5 is perpendicular to
the fuse bottom, then use thin CA to glue the fuse sides to F5.
Glue F6 into position at the rear of the fuselage.

❏ 8. Use the same procedure to glue the fuse sides to F4,

then to F3. Glue the fuse sides to the fuse bottom. As you
proceed, make certain the bottom edges of both fuse sides
are fully contacting the fuse bottom.

❏ 9. Make a wing hold-down dowel by cutting the

remainder of a 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel leftover from the leading
❏ 4. Use a straightedge and a hobby knife to trim the front edge of one of the wing halves to a length of 3" [75mm].
edge of one of the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fuselage Round both ends of the dowel and insert it into the aft holes
sides along the laser-cut line. Mark the inside of that fuse in the fuse sides. Center the dowel, then use a builder’s
side with an “R”, designating it as the right side. square to hold the fuse sides perpendicular to the building
13
board. Glue the dowel into position. Note: If you will be
adding ailerons to your Tutor, do not use the aft holes. Drill
two holes directly behind the top of F3. Glue the dowel into
these holes.

❏ 4. Use T-pins to hold two balsa blocks or something

similar to the building board, aligning the aft end of the fuse
over the plan. Remove the T-pin from former F5 and raise
the aft end of the fuse until the bottom of the fuse sides in
the cabin area (under the wing) are contacting the fuse
❏ 10. Use a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to lightly bottom. Note that the balsa blocks hold the aft end of the fuse
sand the tops of the formers and the top edges of the fuse in alignment even though it has been raised off the plan.
sides even. Test fit, then use medium CA to glue the laser-
cut 1/32" [.8mm] balsa fuse top into position. Remove the
fuse from the plan.

❏ 11. From F3 aft, use a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper

to sand the fuse top and bottom even with the fuse sides.

Frame the Front End of the Fuselage

❏ 1. Make another wing hold-down dowel by cutting the

remainder of the 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel leftover from the ❏ 5. Hold the fuse sides to the fuse bottom, then glue them
leading edge of the other wing half to a length of 3" [75mm]. together.
Locate the remaining 1/8" x 3" [3.2 x 75mm] dowel supplied
with this kit. Round both ends of both dowels.
❏ 6. Temporarily fit, but do not glue the laser-cut 1/16"
[1.6mm] ply landing gear plate between the notches in the
fuse bottom. Be certain the forward wing dowel and the
landing gear dowel are centered, then glue former F2 to the
fuse sides, but not to the landing gear plate.

❏ 2. Insert the dowels through the holes in the front of the

fuse for the forward wing hold-down dowel and the
landing gear dowel. Fit, but do not glue former F2 in the
fuse between the forward wing hold down dowel and the ❏ 7. Use balsa sticks to hold the laser-cut 1/32" [.8mm]
landing gear dowel. balsa forward fuse bottom up to the fuse sides. Glue the
forward fuse bottom to the fuse sides.
❏ 3. Accurately reposition the fuse over the top view of the
plan. Pin the aft end of the fuse bottom to the plan with a ❏ 8. Use a bar sander with 150-grit sandpaper to lightly
T-pin through the bottom of former F5. Pin the front end of sand the edges of the laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] ply former
the fuse bottom to the plan from F3 forward with four or five F1, so glue will adhere. Glue strips of leftover 1/16" [1.6mm]
more T-pins. balsa to the back of F1 over the holes as shown on the plan.
14
❏ 9. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the marks in F1 and ❏ 3. Determine what material you will be covering the
the balsa strips. model with. If using Top Flite EconoKote®, the model is
ready to cover. If using Coverite™ Micafilm™, coat the areas
❏ 10. Use medium CA to glue F1 to the fuse sides and to to be covered with Coverite Balsarite™ (COVR2500). Be
the forward fuse bottom. (You can see F1 in the following certain you use the formula for Micafilm, and not the formula
photo.) Be certain F1 is in alignment with the edges of the for regular film covering.
fuse sides as this sets the correct motor right-thrust and
down-thrust. Also be certain that the hole for the motor in F1 ❏ 4. Follow the suggested covering sequence to cover the model.
is nearest the top.
Suggested Covering Sequence

IMPORTANT: Do not shrink the covering until both sides of

each part are covered. This will reduce the tendency for the
surfaces to twist.

Tail Surfaces:
❏ 1. The bottom, then the top of the stabilizer
❏ 2. Bottom, then top of elevators
❏ 3. Fin
❏ 4. Rudder
Fuselage:
❏ 1. The bottom of the fuse
❏ 2. Sides
❏ 11. Use leftover 1/32" [.8mm] balsa to sheet the front of ❏ 3. Top
the fuselage. Note that the grain runs across the fuse. Sand
the edges of the sheeting flush with the fuse sides. Wing:
❏ 1. The bottom of the wing
❏ 2. Top of the wing
❏ 3. Ailerons (if used)
Note: It may be easier to cover the wing tips separately,
after the rest of the wing has been covered.

❏ 1. After all the tail pieces are covered, inspect the stab
and fin for twists. If necessary, lightly twist the part in the
opposite direction and apply heat to the covering until you
can get it flat.

❏ 12. Test fit, then glue the landing gear plate to the bottom Add “Washout”
of the fuse and former F2.

❏ 13. Use a bar sander with 150-grit paper to sand the fuse An important characteristic of most airplanes is their ability
top and bottom even with the fuse sides. Slightly round the to resist stalling, or to stall gently. Simply stated, a stall is
corners as shown in the cross-sections on the fuse plan. when the wing no longer produces lift–basically the model
Sand the fuse smooth with progressively finer grits of quits flying until it regains airspeed. A stall can occur when
sandpaper. attempting to climb too rapidly, or when the model runs out
of airspeed (such as when trying to land too slowly). One
way to prevent or delay a stall is to add “washout” to the
wing. Washout is an upward twist at both wing tips, so that
the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge. If the wing
COVER THE MODEL tips are raised slightly, or are at a lower angle than the rest
of the wing, the outer portion of the wing will continue to
produce lift (fly) even though the rest of the wing has quit
❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, sand all parts of the flying, thus resisting a stall. Because the Tutor is designed
model smooth with 320-grit, then 400-grit sandpaper. to be light, it would be difficult to build this required twist into
the wing. The following procedure explains how to add
❏ 2. Use compressed air (be careful!), a dust brush or a washout, which is common for lightweight structures such
tack cloth to remove balsa dust from the model. as this.
15
 FINAL ASSEMBLY

Join the Tail Surfaces

❏ 1. Use a small pin to poke several holes through the

covering in the top of the stab along the center rib. These
holes will absorb the CA that will be used to glue the fin to
the stab and will make for a stronger glue joint.

❏ 1. Start with the right wing panel. Holding the middle of

the wing, twist the trailing edge of the right wing tip upward.
The amount of washout to shoot for is 1/8" [3mm], so begin
by twisting about 1/2" [13mm] (because the wing will
“spring” partway back to its original position after re-
shrinking the covering in the next step).

❏ 2. Note the wrinkles in the covering while holding the

wing. Have an assistant heat the covering on the top and the
bottom until the wrinkles disappear. Allow the covering to
fully cool before letting go.

❏ 2. Position the fin over the center rib on the stab. Be

certain the trailing edge of the stab is 1/8" [3.2mm] ahead of
the trailing edge of the fin as shown on the plan. Use a
builder’s square to get the base of the fin perpendicular to
the trailing edge of the stab. Holding the fin in position, use
the builder’s square to hold the fin vertical, then glue it to the
stab with thin CA.

❏ 3. Lay the right wing panel on your flat workbench. Apply

light pressure to hold it down, then use a 1/8" [3mm] piece
of balsa as a gauge to see if you have added the correct
amount of washout. If necessary, continue to twist the wing
and remove the wrinkles until the correct amount of washout
is achieved.

❏ 4. Add washout to the left wing panel the same way.

Note: For a small, lightweight model such as the Tutor, it is

not critical to get exactly 1/8" of washout. However, it is
important that some washout be present in both wing tips.
Do your best to achieve the washout recommended, but
don’t spend hours trying to do so. A slight variance in both
wing tips is acceptable, as long as neither of the wing tips
has any “wash-in.” ❏ 3. Mount the wing to the fuse with two #32 rubber bands.
(When it’s time to fly the Tutor, use four #32 rubber bands.)
Note: If you have built your wing with ailerons, trim the front
edge of the aft fuse top sheeting and cut notches in the top
❏ 5. Check the wing periodically to be sure the washout of former F3 to accommodate the aileron torque rods. (Even
remains. Twist and shrink the covering as necessary to though the fuse is not completely covered in this photo, it
retain the washout. should be on your model at this time.)
16
 ❏ 2. Use a tissue dampened with denatured alcohol or
other suitable solvent to clean the servo cases so the
mounting tape will adhere. Use double-sided foam mounting
tape (GPMQ4440, not included) to mount the elevator and
rudder servos to the fuse sides where shown on the plan.

❏ 4. Place the stab on the fuse, making sure it is centered

as shown in “A” = “A” in the sketch above. Hint: If the
covering on the stab is transparent, align the sticks on both
sides of the center stick with the fuse. ❏ 3. Cut the covering from the elevator and rudder pushrod
exit slots near the aft end of the fuse.
❏ 5. View the model from the rear and see if the stab is
level with the wing as shown in “B” = “B”. If the stab is not
level with the wing, carefully sand the “high side” of the fuse
until you can get the stab to align.

❏ 4. Thoroughly clean the remaining .030" x 20" [.76 x

508mm] wire with alcohol or similar solvent, then scuff it with
320-grit sandpaper so glue will adhere.

❏ 6. With the stab on the fuse, use a straightedge to align

the fin with the center of the top of the fuse. Glue the stab to
the fuse with thin CA.

Hook Up the Controls

❏ 1. Before proceeding, charge the motor battery (and your ❏ 5. Cut 3-1/2" [90mm] from the wire. Make a Z-bend on
transmitter if needed). When it’s time to set up the radio, you one end and a slight bend on the other of the 3-1/2" [90mm]
won’t have to stand by while the batteries are charging. piece. This is a pushrod end.
17
❏ 6. Use pliers to insert the pushrod end 1-1/4" [32mm] into ❏ 12. Make the rudder pushrod and join the rudder to the
a 1/16" x 12" [1.6 x 305mm] aluminum pushrod tube. Use fin the same way.
thin CA to glue the pushrod end into the pushrod tube.
❏ 13. Attach the ailerons to the wing with cellophane tape
❏ 7. Make another pushrod end just the same as the first the same as you did the elevators and rudder.
and insert it into the same pushrod tube, but do not glue it
in. This will be the elevator pushrod.

❏ 8. Make sure the pushrod end that is not glued into the Mount the Landing Gear
tube fits tightly and will not easily slide in and out. It will be
permanently glued in after the model has been set up and
the exact length of the pushrod has been determined. ❏ 1. Make the tail skid as shown on the plan from leftover
1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa, then glue it to the fuse.

❏ 2. Install the wheels on the 1/16" [1.6mm] wire landing

gear. Secure the wheels with the nylon retainers supplied
with this kit.

❏ 9. Refer to this photo for the following three steps.

Insert the elevator pushrod into the fuse through the slot in
the right side. The pushrod end that is not glued into the
tube should be at the rear.

❏ 10. Connect the front of the pushrod to the servo arm,

then mount the servo arm to the elevator servo. Connect the
other end of the pushrod to the outer hole in the elevator
control horn, then hold the elevator up to the stab.

❏ 3. Mount the landing gear to the fuse with #14 rubber

bands on both sides. Both rubber bands must be stretched
enough to wrap around the gear and dowel at least eight
times. (Even though the fuselage is shown without covering,
yours should be covered at this time.)

Assemble the Gear Drive

❏ 11. Slide the pushrod end in or out of the pushrod tube
until the elevator is centered when the servo is centered. Follow these assembly instructions for the Great Planes
Use cellophane tape to hinge the elevator to the stab as ElectriFly™ T-280GD ESC motor system and gear drive
shown in the sketch. (GPMG0430).
18
 control. Temporarily position the receiver inside the fuse and
lay the antenna along the outside of the fuse over the stab.

❏ 6. Mount the propeller to the motor using the prop

adapter. If necessary, enlarge the spacer in the prop with a
3/16" drill bit or a hobby knife with a #11 blade.

❏ 1. Use denatured alcohol or other solvent to clean the

motor shaft. Roughen the shaft with 320-grit sandpaper so
glue will adhere.
PREPARE THE MODEL FOR FLYING

Balance the Model

Note: This section is VERY important and must NOT be

omitted! A model that is not properly balanced will be
unstable and possibly unflyable.

❏ 2. Apply a small drop of medium CA to the hole in the

pinion gear, then press the gear onto the motor shaft using
the base of a large screwdriver or something similar. While
doing this, do not rest the base of the motor on your
workbench, but support the motor shaft with a piece of
hardwood. This way, the pressure applied to the gear will
not displace the armature in the motor.
❏ 1. Use a fine-point felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm] wide striping
❏ 3. Press the motor by hand as far as it will go into the tape to accurately mark the balance point on the bottom of
gear drive unit. the wing on both sides of the fuselage. The balance point
(C.G.) is shown on the fuse plan and is located 1-15/16"
[49.2mm] back from the leading edge of the wing. This is the
balance point at which your model should balance for your
first flights. After the initial trim flights and when you become
more acquainted with the Tutor, you may wish to experiment
by shifting the balance up to 1/4" [6mm] forward or
backward to change its flying characteristics. Moving the
balance point forward may improve the smoothness and
stability, but the model may then require more speed for
takeoff and may become more difficult to slow down for
landing. Moving the balance aft makes the model more agile
with a lighter “feel.” In any case, start at the location we
❏ 4. Connect the motor to the speed control. Guide the recommend. Do not at any time balance your model outside
speed control and wiring through the hole in F1, then mount the recommended range.
the motor to F1 with two #2 x 3/8" [13mm] screws.
❏ 2. Mount the wing to the fuse with two #32 rubber bands
❏ 5. Follow the instructions that came with your speed (when it’s time to fly the Tutor, the wing will be mounted to the
control to connect the servos and the receiver to the speed fuse with four #32 rubber bands, cris-crossing the last two.
19
 mind that the battery should be readily removable to allow it
to cool, and in case you have additional battery packs.
Note: If using Velcro to mount the battery, reinforce the fuse
bottom with two 3/4" [19mm] wide strips of leftover 1/16"
[1.6mm] balsa. Additionally, only a couple of 1/4" [6mm]
wide strips of Velcro are required to secure the battery-do
not use a whole sheet. Otherwise, you may damage the
model while removing the battery!

❏ 6. Mount the battery. Mount the receiver to one of the

fuse sides or to the fuse bottom with Velcro or double-sided
foam mounting tape.

❏ 7. Determine your method for extending the receiver

antenna and routing it through the fuselage. Something as
simple as drilling a 1/16" [1.6mm] hole through the top of the
fuselage, guiding the antenna through, and taping it to the
stab or fin is acceptable. Be certain there is no way that the
antenna can reach the propeller! Never coil-up the antenna
inside the fuselage, nor cut it. The antenna is tuned to a
certain length.

❏ 8. Recheck the C.G. to make certain the model balances.

If the battery is held in place with Velcro, you will be able to
shift it slightly to fine tune the C.G.

Set the Control Throws

❏ 3. With the model ready to fly and all parts installed ❏ 1. For safety, remove the propeller from the motor. Move
except for the battery, position the battery pack on top of the the throttle stick to the off position, or towards you. Connect
wing as shown in the photo. Lift the model at the balance the charged battery to the speed control. Turn on the
point or place it on a Great Planes C.G. Machine. If the tail transmitter, then follow the instructions that came with your
drops, the model is “tail heavy”. If the nose drops, it is “nose speed control to turn on the receiver.
heavy”. Position the battery on top of the wing so the model
will balance. This is the location where the battery must be
mounted inside the fuselage to balance the model, thus WARNING: Whenever the model is not being flown or setup,
eliminating additional ballast (nose or tail weight). Because the battery should be disconnected.
weight is critical to the flight performance of Park Flyers, it is
best to balance the plane by mounting the battery in the
optimum location. Minor C.G. changes can be made by
changing the location of the receiver as well.

❏ 4. Mark the location of the battery on the outside of the

fuselage.

❏ 2. Center the trims on the transmitter. Operate the servos

by moving the control sticks. Check that the servos respond
in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
❏ 5. Use Great Planes Velcro ®
(GPMQ4480, not included), necessary, use the servo reversing function in your
or another suitable method to mount the battery. Keep in transmitter to get the controls to respond correctly.
20
❏ 3. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos, Identify Your Model
then remount them so they are centered.

❏ 4. Now that the servos and the servo arms are centered, No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
center the rudder and elevator by adjusting the position of you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
the aft wire pushrod ends inside the pushrod tubes. your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
Permanently glue the pushrod ends in the pushrod tubes on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
with thin CA. If you have built the Tutor with ailerons, flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
carefully bend the aileron torque rods or the pushrods until identification tag on page 24 and place it on or inside
both ailerons are centered. your model.

Ground Inspection

Before you fly you should perform one last overall inspection
to make sure the model is truly ready to fly and that you
haven’t overlooked anything. If you are not thoroughly
familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an
experienced modeler to perform the inspection. Check to
see that you have the radio installed correctly and that all
the controls are connected properly. The motor must also be
checked by confirming that the prop is rotating in the correct
direction and the motor sounds like it is reaching full power.
Make certain all control surfaces (elevators, rudder,
❏ 5. Operate the controls with the transmitter and use a ailerons-if used) are secure, the pushrods are connected,
ruler to measure the throws. Use the ATV function in the the controls respond in the correct direction, radio
transmitter to set the control throws according to the chart components are securely mounted, and the C.G. is correct.
that follows. Note: If necessary, the control throws may be
increased by moving the pushrod to the inner hole on the
Range Check
control horn on the elevator and rudder.

Ground check the operational range of your radio before the

These are the recommended control throws: first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
Elevator: 5/8" [16mm] up 5/8" [16mm] down
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
Rudder: 7/8" [22mm] right 7/8" [22mm] left control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
Ailerons: 3/8" [9mm] up 3/8" [9mm] down doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
IMPORTANT: The Tutor has been extensively tested. These signals to show you what is happening. If the control
are the control throws at which it flies best. If, after you surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
become comfortable with the way the Tutor flies, you would correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections
like to adjust the throws to suit your taste, that is fine. or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors,
However, remember that too much throw can make the plane poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or
more difficult to control and force it into a stall or a snap roll, a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.
so remember, “more is not always better.”

❏ 6. Switch off the transmitter and disconnect the battery. PERFORMANCE TIPS

PREFLIGHT
Cycle the Batteries

For the longest flight duration, and to get the most from a
Charge the Batteries new battery, the battery should be cycled. “Cycling” a battery
means to fully charge (“peak” charge) the battery, then to
Follow the instructions that came with your radio to charge discharge it. Many battery chargers have peak charging and
the batteries the evening before you plan to fly. You should automatic discharging capabilities. If you do not have a
always charge the transmitter batteries before flying and at charger that is able to discharge batteries, you can
other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer. discharge the battery yourself by running the motor with the
21
propeller attached until the propeller turns slowly. Charge momentum; therefore, if you touch the propeller while it is
and discharge the battery 3 or 4 more times on the ground spinning it may inflict severe injury. Respect the motor and
before flying. Be sure to remove the battery from the propeller for the damage it is capable of and take whatever
airplane between each cycle and allow it to cool before precautions are necessary to avoid injury. Always
recharging. disconnect and remove the motor battery until you are ready
to fly again and always make sure the switches are turned
off before connecting the battery.
Examine the Propeller

Use fine sandpaper to remove imperfections along the

edges of the propeller. For the best performance, use a Top
Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer™ (TOPQ5700) to
balance the propellers (this is a necessity on glow-powered
engines, but less critical on small electric models).

Motor Care
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)
1. Using multiple battery packs for successive flights may
cause the motor to become excessively hot, thus causing
damage. Allow the motor to cool for at least 10 minutes Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
between flights. Aeronautics Official Safety Code:

2. The ideal power source for the Tutor system is a 6 to GENERAL

7-cell (7.2 - 8.4 volt) battery pack. The use of a higher
voltage battery may reduce motor life. 1. I will not fly my model aircraft in competition or in the
presence of spectators until it has been proven to be airworthy
by having been previously successfully flight tested.
Oil the Wheels 2. I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
If taking off from the ground, the wheels must spin freely. airport operator. I will give right of way to and avoid flying in
Check the wheels for binding when moved from side to side the proximity of full scale aircraft. Where necessary an
and put a drop of oil on each axle. observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having
models fly in the proximity of full scale aircraft.

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others. 7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
motors. RADIO CONTROL

Use safety glasses when running motors. 1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flyer, unless assisted
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from by an experienced helper.
the path of the propeller as you start and run the motor.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit,
Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose spectator and parking areas and I will not thereafter perform
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a
(pencils, screwdrivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket pit, spectator or parking area.
pockets into the prop.
4. I will operate my model using only radio control
The electric motor and motor battery used in your Tutor are frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications
very powerful and the spinning propeller has a lot of Commission.
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 Until you have the Tutor properly trimmed for level flight, we
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY recommend having an assistant hand-launch the model
instead of taking off from the ground. Of course, experienced
modelers can hand-launch the model themselves.
Though the Tutor is a “Park Flyer,” the best place to fly any
model is at an AMA chartered club field. Club fields are set Turn on the transmitter and plug the battery into the speed
up for R/C flying, making your outing safer and more control. Turn on the receiver by following the instructions
enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local that came with your speed control.
club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance
to cover you in case of a flying accident. The AMA address IMPORTANT: Confirm that the transmitter operates the
and telephone number are in the front of this manual. controls by moving the sticks and watching the surfaces
respond. Occasionally, electric models have been launched
If there is no club or R/C flying field in your area, find a with the transmitter turned off or the battery disconnected
suitable site that is clear of trees, telephone poles, buildings, from the speed control!
towers, busy streets and other obstacles. Since you are not
flying at a sanctioned AMA site, be aware that there may be When ready to launch, the assistant should hold the bottom
others like yourself who could be flying nearby. If both of of the fuselage behind the landing gear, then raise the
your models happen to be on the same frequency, model high above his head and point it into the wind. With
interference will likely cause one or both of the models to the pilot (that would be you!) standing behind the plane, fully
crash. An acceptable minimum distance between flying advance the throttle to start the motor. As soon as the motor
models is five miles, so keep this in mind when searching for is at full power, the hand launcher should gently toss the
a flying site. plane into the air at a level or slightly nose-up attitude. Be
In addition to obstacles, it is important to be aware of people certain the model is being launched into the wind and be
who may wander into the area once you begin flying. At immediately ready to make corrections to keep the airplane
AMA club flying sites it is a severe rule infraction to fly over flying straight, level and into the wind.
others. You should NEVER fly over people no matter where
you fly. R/C models tend to attract onlookers whose When the model has gained adequate flying speed under its
numbers can soon multiply to form small, uncontrolled own power, gently pull the elevator stick back until the
crowds. Onlookers pose two main problems. First is the airplane starts a gradual climb. Many beginners tend to pull
danger of actually crashing your model into a person, causing too hard causing the model to stall, so be gentle on the
injury. Second is the distraction of those who ask you elevator and don’t panic. If you do pull too hard and you
questions while you are trying to concentrate on flying. To notice the model losing speed, release the elevator stick
minimize or avoid this problem, have an assistant standing and allow the model to regain airspeed.
by who can spot people who wander into your flying site (so
you can avoid flying over them) and who can perform “crowd Continue a gradual climb and establish a gentle turn (away
control” if people start to gather. from yourself) until the airplane reaches an altitude of 75 to
100 feet.
FLYING
Flight
IMPORTANT: If you are an inexperienced modeler we
The main purpose of the first few flights is to learn how the
strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a competent,
model behaves and to adjust the trims for level flight. After
experienced R/C pilot to check your model for airworthiness
the model has climbed to a safe altitude, reduce the throttle
AND to teach you how to fly. No matter how stable or
slightly to slow the model, yet maintain altitude. The Tutor
“forgiving” the Tutor is, attempting to learn to fly on your own
should fly well and maintain adequate airspeed at about 1/2
is dangerous and may result in the destruction of your model
to 3/4 throttle.
or even injury to yourself and others. Therefore, find an
instructor and fly only under his or her guidance and
Adjust the elevator trim so the model flies level at the throttle
supervision until you have acquired the skills necessary for
setting you are using. Adjust the aileron trim (if used) and
safe and fully controlled operation of your model.
rudder trim to level the wings. It may take a few passes to
get the trims adjusted, but this should be your first priority
Takeoff once at a comfortable altitude. Continue to fly around,
executing turns and making mental notes (or having your
We recommend flying the Tutor when the wind is no greater assistant take notes for you) of what additional adjustments
than five miles per hour. Less experienced flyers should fly or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the model so
the Tutor only in calm (less than one mile per hour) it flies the way you like.
conditions. Frequently, winds are calm in the early morning
and early evening. These are the most enjoyable times to fly If the Tutor reaches a high enough altitude, you may
anyway! periodically cut off the motor power and glide. This may
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extend the flight time by several minutes, especially if you fly After you have trimmed the Tutor for flight and have become
into a rising air current. familiar with its flight characteristics, you may execute ROG
takeoffs. With the model on the runway and pointing into the
wind, gently apply power. Initially, the plane may turn to the
Landing left or right because it has not gained enough speed for the
controls to become effective. Do your best to get through
Because the Tutor flies slowly, it requires little room to land. this brief moment and maintain a heading down the runway
Begin the landing approach by flying downwind at an and into the wind. Make corrections with the rudder to keep
altitude of approximately 20 feet [6 meters]. When the it rolling straight into the wind. If the model veers too far off,
airplane is approximately 50 to 100 feet [15 to 30 meters] cut the throttle and try again. As the model begins to gain
past you, cut off the motor power and make the “final” 180- speed the controls will become effective.
degree turn into the wind, aligning the airplane with the
runway or landing area. Do not dive the airplane, as it will After the airplane has gained adequate speed (this requires
pick up too much speed. Instead, when you cut the power, experience to gauge), gently pull back on the elevator stick
allow the airplane to establish a gradual descent. allowing the airplane to become airborne. Establish a gentle
Concentrate on keeping it heading into the wind toward the climb the same as when you were hand-launching.
runway. When the plane reaches an altitude of about 4 feet
[1 meter], gently apply a little “up elevator” to level the plane, Best of luck and happy flying!
but be careful as too much up elevator will cause it to stall.
While holding a slight amount of up elevator the airplane will
slow and descend as it loses flying speed, thus touching
down on the runway.

Until you are able to accurately judge how far the Tutor can
glide, if flying with three channels (rudder only), it may be
helpful to reserve some battery power to run the motor so
the plane can be flown back to the runway.

ROG (Rise Off Ground) Takeoff

When speaking of small models, frequently a takeoff from

the ground is called an “ROG” (rise off ground) takeoff.
Landings on grass will be a little rough, but doing a ROG
takeoff from grass will probably not be possible with the
Tutor. If planning an ROG takeoff, find a paved surface.

TWO VIEW DRAWING