Flying Tutor
Flying Tutor
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both materials and workmanship
at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case
shall Great Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right
to change or modify this warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act
of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyers are not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, they are advised to
return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.
You can also check our web site at www.greatplanes.com Battery recommendations
for the latest GP Tutor updates. There are mainly two kinds of battery packs used for electric
R/C models; nickel-metal hydride (NiMh) packs, and nickel-
cadmium (NiCd, pronounced ny-cad) packs. NiMh batteries
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE are recommended for the Tutor because they provide nearly
twice the capacity of a NiCd for their size. However, it should
be noted that nickel-metal hydrides cannot be charged as fast
as NiCds.
This is a list of items required to finish the Tutor that must
be purchased separately. For some of these items there is Each individual cell that makes up a battery is 1.2 volts.
more than one option which will require a bit of decision Simply stated, a volt is the amount of power a battery pack
making ahead of time. Order numbers (in parentheses) can deliver (a 6-cell battery pack is 7.2 volts). Batteries are
are provided for your convenience. also rated by their capacity in mAh (milli-Amp-hours), or how
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much energy they store. A 550 mAh battery can supply 1 as that of the Tutor. EconoKote also has an adhesive on the
Ampere for .55 hours (about 30-minutes). A 1200 mAh battery back which is activated by the heat of a model airplane
pack is about twice the size of a 550 mAh battery pack. covering iron.
These are the battery packs recommended for the Tutor: Coverite Micafilm is another covering suitable for lightweight
structures (and is the covering that is on the model featured
Panasonic 6-cell 550 mAh NiMh pack (GPMP0100) for on the box label). Micafilm has fibers imbedded in the film and
beginners due to its light weight. is exceptionally strong, yet remains lightweight because it has
no adhesive on the back. Therefore, you must apply an
Panasonic 7-cell 550 mAh NiMh pack (GPMP0101) for adhesive to the structure before application. Use Coverite
advanced pilots who are capable of flying in slightly windier Balsarite™ (COVR2500) for Micafilm. Do not use Balsarite “film
conditions. formula” to apply Micafilm.
similar to MonoKote® (used on most regular-size sport ❏ Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
® ™
2. Take the stick off the plan and cut it over a cutting mat or
a scrap piece of wood (Okay, if you’re careful you could go
ahead and cut the stick right over the plan, but if you do, you
may cut through the plan protector, allowing the CA to soak
through and glue the structure to the plan).
Metric Conversions
1/64" = .4mm 3/16" = 4.8mm 1" = 25.4mm 18" = 457.2mm
1/32" = .8mm 1/4" = 6.4mm 2" = 50.8mm 21" = 533.4mm
1/16" = 1.6mm 3/8" = 9.5mm 3" = 76.2mm 24" = 609.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm 1/2" = 12.7mm 6" = 152.4mm 30" = 762mm
1/8" = 3.2mm 5/8" = 15.9mm 12" = 304.8mm 36" = 914.4mm
5/32" = 4mm 3/4" = 19mm 15" = 381mm
Inch Scale
0" 1" 2" 3" 4" 5" 6" 7"
❏ 2. Build the fin and the rudder from two 1/8" x 1/8" x 24"
[3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Hint: When cutting the
“ribs” (the horizontal sticks), start with the longest ones first.
If you accidentally cut one too short, use it for the shorter rib
above it, thus minimizing wasted material.
❏ 3. Remove the fin and rudder from the plan. Use a bar
sander with 150-grit sandpaper to carefully sand both sides ❏ 6. Build the stab and elevators from the four 1/8" x 1/8" x
of the fin and rudder flat and even. Round the corners as 24" [3.2 x 3.2 x 610mm] balsa sticks. Do not join the elevators
shown on the plan. Refer to the Expert Tip that follows, then with the 1/8" [3.2mm] dowel until instructed to do so.
round the leading edge and top of the fin and the trailing
edge and top of the rudder. ❏ 7. The same as you did the fin and rudder, sand the stab
and elevators flat and even, then round the corners where
shown on the plan. Round the tips of the stab and elevators
and round the leading edge of the stab and the trailing edge
of the elevators. Bevel the leading edge of both elevators as
shown in the cross-section on the plan.
❏ 1. Cover the left wing panel plan with Great Planes Plan
Protector.
❏❏ 5. Starting at the wing tip, glue the seven laser-cut
1/16" [1.6mm] balsa W-1 and one W-1A ribs over the main
spar and trailing edge sheet, perpendicular to the building
board. IMPORTANT: Do not install the W-1A root rib until
the next step.
❏ ❏ 3. Pin one of the main spars in position over the plan, ❏ ❏ 7. Position the top 1/8" x 1/4" x 24" [3.2 x 6.4 x 610mm]
aligning one end of the main spar with the outside edge of balsa main spar in the rib notches with one end flush with
the root rib W-1. the outside edge of the root rib and glue to all the ribs.
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❏ ❏ 8. Cut one of the 1/8" x 24" [3.2 x 610mm] hardwood
dowels so that it fits in the notches at the front of the wing ❏ ❏ 11. From a 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" [.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa
ribs, from the root to the tip rib.Save the leftover dowel for sheet, cut and glue shear webs, horizontally, to the top and
the fuselage. Glue the dowel to the ribs. bottom spars in the locations shown on the plan. Make sure
they are glued securely to the wing spars and ribs. Do not
install shear webs in the rib bay between the W-1A ribs.
❏❏ 9. To make a top trailing edge sheet, draw a line ❏❏ 12. From a 1/32" x 3" x 15" [.8 x 75 x 380mm] balsa
1/16" [1.6mm] from the edge of a second 1/32" x 3/4" x 24" sheet, cut pieces to make the top center sheeting to fit
[.8 x 19 x 610mm] balsa sheet. Sand a taper along the edge between the wing spar and trailing edge sheet and between
up to the line. The sheet should fit in the notches at the the wing spar and the leading edge dowel. When satisfied
trailing edge of the wing ribs and blend into the bottom with the fit, apply medium CA to the top of the W-1A ribs and
trailing edge sheet. Hint: To avoid breaking the trailing edge press the sheeting in place.
sheet when sanding the taper, sand across the grain, not
lengthwise. ❏ ❏ 13. Carefully sand the top center sheeting flush with
the wing spar, leading edge dowel and trailing edge sheet.
❏ ❏ 14. Use the wing tip brace pattern on the plan to make
❏❏ 10. Glue the top trailing edge sheet to the top of the the wing tip brace from leftover 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa. Glue
wing ribs and the bottom trailing edge sheet. the wing tip brace into position.
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❏ 2. Using a hobby knife, carefully cut a 1/16" [1.6mm] slot
in ribs W-1A, just behind the main spar. Test fit the dihedral
❏❏ 15. Remove the wing from your building board and brace in the slots.
carefully sand off any glue blobs. From the remaining 1/32"
x 3" x 15" [.8 x 75 x 380mm] balsa sheet, cut pieces to make
bottom center sheeting to fit between the leading edge
dowel and wing spar and from the wing spar to the trailing
edge sheet.
❏ ❏ 16. Cut and sand the wing spars and trailing edge
sheeting flush with the wing tip rib.
❏ 3. Test fit the wing halves together. With one wing half flat
on your building board, block-up the wing tip of the other
wing half so that it is 4-1/2" [114mm] off of your building
board. Use a bar sander to sand the center joint as
necessary until the wing halves fit together without any gap.
❏ 5. Sand the leading and trailing edges of the wing joint flush.
❏ A. Make the first 90° bend near one end of the wire.
❏ 1. Cover the top view of the fuse plan with Plan Protector.
❏ 5. Cut the forward pushrod exit slot in the right fuse side
where shown on the plan. Cut the aft pushrod exit slot in the
other laser-cut 1/16" [1.6mm] balsa fuselage side where
shown on the plan, which is now the left side.
❏ 7. Accurately align the fuse sides, so the notches for the stab
align with the top of former F5 and the notches for the wing align
with the top of former F3. Holding the fuse sides in position, use
a small builder’s square to make certain F5 is perpendicular to
the fuse bottom, then use thin CA to glue the fuse sides to F5.
Glue F6 into position at the rear of the fuselage.
Tail Surfaces:
❏ 1. The bottom, then the top of the stabilizer
❏ 2. Bottom, then top of elevators
❏ 3. Fin
❏ 4. Rudder
Fuselage:
❏ 1. The bottom of the fuse
❏ 2. Sides
❏ 11. Use leftover 1/32" [.8mm] balsa to sheet the front of ❏ 3. Top
the fuselage. Note that the grain runs across the fuse. Sand
the edges of the sheeting flush with the fuse sides. Wing:
❏ 1. The bottom of the wing
❏ 2. Top of the wing
❏ 3. Ailerons (if used)
Note: It may be easier to cover the wing tips separately,
after the rest of the wing has been covered.
❏ 1. After all the tail pieces are covered, inspect the stab
and fin for twists. If necessary, lightly twist the part in the
opposite direction and apply heat to the covering until you
can get it flat.
❏ 12. Test fit, then glue the landing gear plate to the bottom Add “Washout”
of the fuse and former F2.
❏ 13. Use a bar sander with 150-grit paper to sand the fuse An important characteristic of most airplanes is their ability
top and bottom even with the fuse sides. Slightly round the to resist stalling, or to stall gently. Simply stated, a stall is
corners as shown in the cross-sections on the fuse plan. when the wing no longer produces lift–basically the model
Sand the fuse smooth with progressively finer grits of quits flying until it regains airspeed. A stall can occur when
sandpaper. attempting to climb too rapidly, or when the model runs out
of airspeed (such as when trying to land too slowly). One
way to prevent or delay a stall is to add “washout” to the
wing. Washout is an upward twist at both wing tips, so that
the trailing edge is higher than the leading edge. If the wing
COVER THE MODEL tips are raised slightly, or are at a lower angle than the rest
of the wing, the outer portion of the wing will continue to
produce lift (fly) even though the rest of the wing has quit
❏ 1. If you haven’t done so already, sand all parts of the flying, thus resisting a stall. Because the Tutor is designed
model smooth with 320-grit, then 400-grit sandpaper. to be light, it would be difficult to build this required twist into
the wing. The following procedure explains how to add
❏ 2. Use compressed air (be careful!), a dust brush or a washout, which is common for lightweight structures such
tack cloth to remove balsa dust from the model. as this.
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FINAL ASSEMBLY
❏ 1. Before proceeding, charge the motor battery (and your ❏ 5. Cut 3-1/2" [90mm] from the wire. Make a Z-bend on
transmitter if needed). When it’s time to set up the radio, you one end and a slight bend on the other of the 3-1/2" [90mm]
won’t have to stand by while the batteries are charging. piece. This is a pushrod end.
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❏ 6. Use pliers to insert the pushrod end 1-1/4" [32mm] into ❏ 12. Make the rudder pushrod and join the rudder to the
a 1/16" x 12" [1.6 x 305mm] aluminum pushrod tube. Use fin the same way.
thin CA to glue the pushrod end into the pushrod tube.
❏ 13. Attach the ailerons to the wing with cellophane tape
❏ 7. Make another pushrod end just the same as the first the same as you did the elevators and rudder.
and insert it into the same pushrod tube, but do not glue it
in. This will be the elevator pushrod.
❏ 8. Make sure the pushrod end that is not glued into the Mount the Landing Gear
tube fits tightly and will not easily slide in and out. It will be
permanently glued in after the model has been set up and
the exact length of the pushrod has been determined. ❏ 1. Make the tail skid as shown on the plan from leftover
1/8" x 1/8" [3.2 x 3.2mm] balsa, then glue it to the fuse.
❏ 3. With the model ready to fly and all parts installed ❏ 1. For safety, remove the propeller from the motor. Move
except for the battery, position the battery pack on top of the the throttle stick to the off position, or towards you. Connect
wing as shown in the photo. Lift the model at the balance the charged battery to the speed control. Turn on the
point or place it on a Great Planes C.G. Machine. If the tail transmitter, then follow the instructions that came with your
drops, the model is “tail heavy”. If the nose drops, it is “nose speed control to turn on the receiver.
heavy”. Position the battery on top of the wing so the model
will balance. This is the location where the battery must be
mounted inside the fuselage to balance the model, thus WARNING: Whenever the model is not being flown or setup,
eliminating additional ballast (nose or tail weight). Because the battery should be disconnected.
weight is critical to the flight performance of Park Flyers, it is
best to balance the plane by mounting the battery in the
optimum location. Minor C.G. changes can be made by
changing the location of the receiver as well.
❏ 4. Now that the servos and the servo arms are centered, No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if
center the rudder and elevator by adjusting the position of you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have
the aft wire pushrod ends inside the pushrod tubes. your name, address, telephone number and AMA number
Permanently glue the pushrod ends in the pushrod tubes on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club
with thin CA. If you have built the Tutor with ailerons, flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the
carefully bend the aileron torque rods or the pushrods until identification tag on page 24 and place it on or inside
both ailerons are centered. your model.
Ground Inspection
Before you fly you should perform one last overall inspection
to make sure the model is truly ready to fly and that you
haven’t overlooked anything. If you are not thoroughly
familiar with the operation of R/C models, ask an
experienced modeler to perform the inspection. Check to
see that you have the radio installed correctly and that all
the controls are connected properly. The motor must also be
checked by confirming that the prop is rotating in the correct
direction and the motor sounds like it is reaching full power.
Make certain all control surfaces (elevators, rudder,
❏ 5. Operate the controls with the transmitter and use a ailerons-if used) are secure, the pushrods are connected,
ruler to measure the throws. Use the ATV function in the the controls respond in the correct direction, radio
transmitter to set the control throws according to the chart components are securely mounted, and the C.G. is correct.
that follows. Note: If necessary, the control throws may be
increased by moving the pushrod to the inner hole on the
Range Check
control horn on the elevator and rudder.
❏ 6. Switch off the transmitter and disconnect the battery. PERFORMANCE TIPS
PREFLIGHT
Cycle the Batteries
For the longest flight duration, and to get the most from a
Charge the Batteries new battery, the battery should be cycled. “Cycling” a battery
means to fully charge (“peak” charge) the battery, then to
Follow the instructions that came with your radio to charge discharge it. Many battery chargers have peak charging and
the batteries the evening before you plan to fly. You should automatic discharging capabilities. If you do not have a
always charge the transmitter batteries before flying and at charger that is able to discharge batteries, you can
other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer. discharge the battery yourself by running the motor with the
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propeller attached until the propeller turns slowly. Charge momentum; therefore, if you touch the propeller while it is
and discharge the battery 3 or 4 more times on the ground spinning it may inflict severe injury. Respect the motor and
before flying. Be sure to remove the battery from the propeller for the damage it is capable of and take whatever
airplane between each cycle and allow it to cool before precautions are necessary to avoid injury. Always
recharging. disconnect and remove the motor battery until you are ready
to fly again and always make sure the switches are turned
off before connecting the battery.
Examine the Propeller
Motor Care
AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpt)
1. Using multiple battery packs for successive flights may
cause the motor to become excessively hot, thus causing
damage. Allow the motor to cool for at least 10 minutes Read and abide by the following Academy of Model
between flights. Aeronautics Official Safety Code:
MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS 3. Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
Note: Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others. 7. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
motors. RADIO CONTROL
Use safety glasses when running motors. 1. I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the
propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes. 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of
spectators until I become a qualified flyer, unless assisted
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from by an experienced helper.
the path of the propeller as you start and run the motor.
3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away from the pit,
Keep items such as these away from the prop: loose spectator and parking areas and I will not thereafter perform
clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects maneuvers, flights of any sort or landing approaches over a
(pencils, screwdrivers) that may fall out of shirt or jacket pit, spectator or parking area.
pockets into the prop.
4. I will operate my model using only radio control
The electric motor and motor battery used in your Tutor are frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications
very powerful and the spinning propeller has a lot of Commission.
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Until you have the Tutor properly trimmed for level flight, we
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY recommend having an assistant hand-launch the model
instead of taking off from the ground. Of course, experienced
modelers can hand-launch the model themselves.
Though the Tutor is a “Park Flyer,” the best place to fly any
model is at an AMA chartered club field. Club fields are set Turn on the transmitter and plug the battery into the speed
up for R/C flying, making your outing safer and more control. Turn on the receiver by following the instructions
enjoyable. We recommend that you join the AMA and a local that came with your speed control.
club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance
to cover you in case of a flying accident. The AMA address IMPORTANT: Confirm that the transmitter operates the
and telephone number are in the front of this manual. controls by moving the sticks and watching the surfaces
respond. Occasionally, electric models have been launched
If there is no club or R/C flying field in your area, find a with the transmitter turned off or the battery disconnected
suitable site that is clear of trees, telephone poles, buildings, from the speed control!
towers, busy streets and other obstacles. Since you are not
flying at a sanctioned AMA site, be aware that there may be When ready to launch, the assistant should hold the bottom
others like yourself who could be flying nearby. If both of of the fuselage behind the landing gear, then raise the
your models happen to be on the same frequency, model high above his head and point it into the wind. With
interference will likely cause one or both of the models to the pilot (that would be you!) standing behind the plane, fully
crash. An acceptable minimum distance between flying advance the throttle to start the motor. As soon as the motor
models is five miles, so keep this in mind when searching for is at full power, the hand launcher should gently toss the
a flying site. plane into the air at a level or slightly nose-up attitude. Be
In addition to obstacles, it is important to be aware of people certain the model is being launched into the wind and be
who may wander into the area once you begin flying. At immediately ready to make corrections to keep the airplane
AMA club flying sites it is a severe rule infraction to fly over flying straight, level and into the wind.
others. You should NEVER fly over people no matter where
you fly. R/C models tend to attract onlookers whose When the model has gained adequate flying speed under its
numbers can soon multiply to form small, uncontrolled own power, gently pull the elevator stick back until the
crowds. Onlookers pose two main problems. First is the airplane starts a gradual climb. Many beginners tend to pull
danger of actually crashing your model into a person, causing too hard causing the model to stall, so be gentle on the
injury. Second is the distraction of those who ask you elevator and don’t panic. If you do pull too hard and you
questions while you are trying to concentrate on flying. To notice the model losing speed, release the elevator stick
minimize or avoid this problem, have an assistant standing and allow the model to regain airspeed.
by who can spot people who wander into your flying site (so
you can avoid flying over them) and who can perform “crowd Continue a gradual climb and establish a gentle turn (away
control” if people start to gather. from yourself) until the airplane reaches an altitude of 75 to
100 feet.
FLYING
Flight
IMPORTANT: If you are an inexperienced modeler we
The main purpose of the first few flights is to learn how the
strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a competent,
model behaves and to adjust the trims for level flight. After
experienced R/C pilot to check your model for airworthiness
the model has climbed to a safe altitude, reduce the throttle
AND to teach you how to fly. No matter how stable or
slightly to slow the model, yet maintain altitude. The Tutor
“forgiving” the Tutor is, attempting to learn to fly on your own
should fly well and maintain adequate airspeed at about 1/2
is dangerous and may result in the destruction of your model
to 3/4 throttle.
or even injury to yourself and others. Therefore, find an
instructor and fly only under his or her guidance and
Adjust the elevator trim so the model flies level at the throttle
supervision until you have acquired the skills necessary for
setting you are using. Adjust the aileron trim (if used) and
safe and fully controlled operation of your model.
rudder trim to level the wings. It may take a few passes to
get the trims adjusted, but this should be your first priority
Takeoff once at a comfortable altitude. Continue to fly around,
executing turns and making mental notes (or having your
We recommend flying the Tutor when the wind is no greater assistant take notes for you) of what additional adjustments
than five miles per hour. Less experienced flyers should fly or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the model so
the Tutor only in calm (less than one mile per hour) it flies the way you like.
conditions. Frequently, winds are calm in the early morning
and early evening. These are the most enjoyable times to fly If the Tutor reaches a high enough altitude, you may
anyway! periodically cut off the motor power and glide. This may
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extend the flight time by several minutes, especially if you fly After you have trimmed the Tutor for flight and have become
into a rising air current. familiar with its flight characteristics, you may execute ROG
takeoffs. With the model on the runway and pointing into the
wind, gently apply power. Initially, the plane may turn to the
Landing left or right because it has not gained enough speed for the
controls to become effective. Do your best to get through
Because the Tutor flies slowly, it requires little room to land. this brief moment and maintain a heading down the runway
Begin the landing approach by flying downwind at an and into the wind. Make corrections with the rudder to keep
altitude of approximately 20 feet [6 meters]. When the it rolling straight into the wind. If the model veers too far off,
airplane is approximately 50 to 100 feet [15 to 30 meters] cut the throttle and try again. As the model begins to gain
past you, cut off the motor power and make the “final” 180- speed the controls will become effective.
degree turn into the wind, aligning the airplane with the
runway or landing area. Do not dive the airplane, as it will After the airplane has gained adequate speed (this requires
pick up too much speed. Instead, when you cut the power, experience to gauge), gently pull back on the elevator stick
allow the airplane to establish a gradual descent. allowing the airplane to become airborne. Establish a gentle
Concentrate on keeping it heading into the wind toward the climb the same as when you were hand-launching.
runway. When the plane reaches an altitude of about 4 feet
[1 meter], gently apply a little “up elevator” to level the plane, Best of luck and happy flying!
but be careful as too much up elevator will cause it to stall.
While holding a slight amount of up elevator the airplane will
slow and descend as it loses flying speed, thus touching
down on the runway.
Until you are able to accurately judge how far the Tutor can
glide, if flying with three channels (rudder only), it may be
helpful to reserve some battery power to run the motor so
the plane can be flown back to the runway.