STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTIONS Plan RC356

REAL CEDAR
HORIZONTAL
PRIVACY SCREEN
DEFINE YOUR OUTDOOR SPACE WITH NATURE’S MOST VERSATILE BUILDING MATERIAL

DESIGN: REAL CEDAR ORIGINAL

This highly adaptable privacy screen features a contemporary, In terms of WRC grades, choose knotty (Architect Knotty, Select
horizontal pattern that provides visual interest and integrates Knotty) for a more rustic look or choose clear (Architect Clear,
beautifully with nature. ‘A’ & better) for a polished modern look. And when it comes to
specifying sizes, we recommend asking your local Real Cedar
This particular project is a pleasure to build because the design
retailer if they have any short lengths in stock. Using short lengths
calls for beautiful, Western Red Cedar, which is easy to work with.
means less cutting, less waste and more savings for you. Search
It lays straight, takes fasteners easily and the tools love it. Plus,
for kiln dried material, if available.
Real Cedar is naturally resistant to rot, decay and insects, making
it ideal for all your outdoor projects. And let’s face it, nothing
looks, feels, or smells quite like Western Red Cedar.

NOTE: Real Cedar is not responsible for any personal injury or property damage sustained in connection to these guidelines.
 Plan RC356

INSTALLATION TIPS

Design - If you’re planning on building a privacy screen that will run between two properties, it’s always best to consult with neighbors
first to make sure all parties involved are in total agreement with regards to design and location of the structure.

Safety - Before you dig holes for your posts, you need to know what’s in the ground. This entails calling your local gas/electricity/water
providers before finalizing the placement of your posts. Point being you want to know what’s under there before you put a spade in
the ground.

Fasteners - For all outdoor work, you should use corrosion-resistant stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized nails. Other fasteners and
hardware such as bolts, screws and hinges should also be made from similar corrosion resistant materials.

Stains - You can let the cedar weather naturally (eventually turning a beautiful silvery patina), or you can choose to finish the structure—
in which case, apply the finish to all six sides of the components before assembly.

STEP 1.
MARK YOUR LAYOUT
Figure out exactly where you want the fence to be. Then put a stake in the ground on either end to determine the run of fence. Offset
that line by 6" to 12" to one side. The reason for offsetting your marker is that you don’t want the string running right through where
you’ll be erecting posts because that will interfere with your work area. Posts should be no more than 5 feet apart without some
additional vertical support. Board spanning more the 5 feet may sag.

PRO TIP: Make sure the line is securely fastened and that everybody knows what the offset number is.

STEP 2.
DIG HOLES
CAUTION: Before you dig, always call your gas/electricity/water providers
to make sure it’s safe. Most areas have a “Call Before You Dig” number.

When calculating how deep to dig your holes, first decide the desired height
of your fence and then take a 1/3 of that length and add it to the total length.

Example: If you want six-foot-posts, one third of that is two feet. So, you will
need eight-foot posts and you will need to dig two-foot holes, which leaves
6 feet of exposed post.
x DESIRED ABOVE-GROUND
= HEIGHT OF POST

The other factor is the frostline, which varies from region to region.
You always want your posts to be installed below the frostline to avoid
frost heaves.

PRO TIPS: Using bright tape or paint, make a mark on your shovel that is the
same depth as your desired hole, so you can easily check the depth of the
hole as your digging it. Do this simply by standing the shovel in the hole to
see how much further you need to dig.

For additional protection you may consider staining the area of the post near
or in ground contact with a water repellent preservative to help shed water.

FROST LINE
x/3 = MINIMUM HOLE DEPTH

The hole must be

deeper than the
frost line in your
geographic region.

NOTE: Real Cedar is not responsible for any personal injury or property damage sustained in connection to these guidelines.
 Plan RC356

Gravel should be placed in the bottom of the hole with a large stone
on top. The base of the post should rest on the large stone.
STEP 3.
ERECT & BRACE POSTS
Scoop a shovel full of gravel into each hole to keep moisture from wicking up to the bottom of the post. Then tamp down gravel with the
post. Find a flattish rock that is roughly the same size as the parameter of the post and place it on top of the gravel. Place the post on
top of rock and brace it in place.

For bracing, the first step is to figure out the common spacing between posts (in this case, it’s 5 feet).
Then cut a piece of wood to that measurement. Begin bracing one of the end posts with a brace that
runs close to the ground and connects that end post with the one next to it. Tack it in with screws.
Next tack in a top brace between those two those same posts.

After that, drive a stake into the ground just far enough from that first post, so that a brace
can be attached at about 45 degrees and connect about halfway up the post. Then connect
the post to the stake with the diangle brace. Check levels and gently nudge the post to
make sure it’s plumb. Then reinforce with a bottom brace that runs along the ground
connecting the stake to the post. That’s one post braced. Repeat on down the line for
each post.

PRO TIP: You can use your fence boards for the temporary bracing.

STEP 4.
POUR CONCRETE Tent the concrete
to prevent water
Mix concrete as per instructions and fill in the holes to from pooling against
the wood.
the top, slightly tent the cement up around the post so
that water sheds away. Do this for each post and let
dry overnight.

In stable soil conditions, tamped gravel can be used

instead of concrete.

PRO TIPS: Always use gloves and eyewear when working

with concrete.

For a two foot deep hole you will need roughly two bags
of concrete per hole.

NOTE: Real Cedar is not responsible for any personal injury or property damage sustained in connection to these guidelines.
 Plan RC356

STEP 5.
CUT POSTS TO LENGTH
Once your concrete is dry and the posts are sturdy, mark one of the end posts at the established height. Using that first post as your
reference, take a hand level and bring it across to mark the level of the next post. Use a square to take that mark around all sides of the
post. Continue on down the line until all posts are marked at the same desired height. Then remove all the bracing so it doesn’t get in
your way when your cutting the posts. A circular saw is recommended for this step, which will most likely mean you’ll have to take two
passes at it—one for each side.

PRO TIPS: Be sure to take your time cutting the posts, as you want a tight fit between the top caps and the post tops.

A Chalk line and string level can be used as an alternative to a hand level.

STEP 6.
CUT & INSTALL TOP CAPS Use a 30˚ scarf joiny
centered on the top of
Screw a 2 x 6 cap on the flat to the top of the 4 x 4 post. each post.
If your fence requires more than one 2 x 6 top cap to
span the length of the screen, join the boards in the
center of a 4 x 4 post. Cut the 2 x 6 using a 30 degree
scarf joint.

PRO TIP: Using a bit caulking or water proof glue in the

joint will prevent water from seeping into crack and onto
the top of the post.

Drawing showing a
stop mounted on a post
STEP 7. with measurements.
INSTALL BACK STOPS
Figure out how high up you want your fence from the
ground (this may depend on factors such as the size
of your dog and desired privacy). We recommend four
inches from the ground. Then, measure the stop from that
4" mark to underside of top caps. But before cutting your
stops, place one on the ground and lay out your boards
in your desired pattern alongside the stop. Then you’ll
know the exact length you’ll need.

Cut the 1 x 2 stops to this desired length. Butt stops right

up to underside of camps and set 1/8" from the back of
the 4 x 4. Nail or screw into place.

NOTE: You will be nailing the boards against these stops;

therefore, make sure they are firmly attached.

PRO TIP: When cutting your back stops, cut your front
stops as well to ensure all stops are the same length.

NOTE: Real Cedar is not responsible for any personal injury or property damage sustained in connection to these guidelines.
 Plan RC356

STEP 8.
CLAD PANELS
How you want to layout the board and spacing pattern is up to you. For our project, we chose alternating one 1 x 6 boards with two
1 x 3 boards with a 3/4" spacing gaps (the thickness of a 1x board). When applying the boards it’s best to have a helping hand. Make
sure each person has the exact same size spacer. Start adding the boards from the top and work down. Position nails on an angle so
that they go through the stops and bite the post. Keep the nails close enough to the post so that they will be covered front stop
(see STEP 9).

PRO TIP: As you progress, occasionally measure on each side the total distance from the bottom of the board to the bottom of the
top fence cap to make sure you are keeping your spacing consistent.

Use wood blocks for consistent spacing between

the fence boards. Use stainless steel or HDG
fasteners to attach the fence boards to the stops.

STEP 9.
INSTALL FRONT STOPS
To cover any imperfections such as shorter boards,
etc., install front caps to the posts on top of the
cladding. This will clean everything up and make the
fence look polished and professional.

NOTE: Real Cedar is not responsible for any personal injury or property damage sustained in connection to these guidelines.
 Cedars remove carbon
from the atmosphere.

REAL CEDAR
THE MOST SUSTAINABLE CHOICE
When it comes to improving your outdoor living space, choosing
naturally beautiful cedar products is quite simply the greatest way
to honor nature.

That’s because woods, such as Western Red Cedar, are the

only major building material that are renewable. Furthermore,
Cedar, along with other wood products, has the lowest impact of
all building materials on air and water quality. As well, cedar is
harvested from the world’s most sustainably managed forests, so
it truly is a choice you can feel good about.

For every cedar harvested, Products like

at least 3 a
 re replanted, Real Cedardecking
continuing the cycle a  nd and siding store it
reducing greenhouse gases before it can be released.

realcedar.com