Poultry Farming Handbook

Table of Contents
1. Day Old Chicks or Point of Lay – Which Should I Start With?...................2
2. Layers Feed Intake and Weight/Growth Chart…………………………….3
3. Grower Feed Formula & Nutritional Composition……………………….13
4. How to Boost or Increase Egg Production………………………………..17
5. How to Sell Eggs, Chickens and Other Farm Products Quickly………….20
6. Special Feed Formula for Optimal Chicks, Growers & Layers
Performance……………………………………………………………….22
7. How to identify good and poor layer chickens (Physical Features)………25
8. Six Ways You Can Maintain Healthy Bird Weight……………………….27
9. Molting in Chickens: Everything You Need To Know…………………...31
10. Causes and Cure of Egg Eating in Poultry……………………………….32
11. Biosecurity and Sanitation Practices in Livestock Farms Poultry Diseases
that are Rampant in the Cold or Wet Season……………………………...34
12. Twelve Common Poultry Diseases and How to Deal With Them……….37
13. Coccidiosis in Poultry: Signs, Control & Prevention…………………….42

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NOTE 1:
Day Old Chicks or Point of Lay – Which Should I Start
With?
Should I start with day-old chicks (DOC) or Point of Lay Chickens (POL)? This is a common
question asked by most people who want to start layer farming. They are confused and don’t
know which option they should go for. If you’re in this situation, this post will assist you in
making the best choice when it comes to choosing DOC or POL.

NOTE:

 DOC is the abbreviation for Day Old Chick. It is the name given to newly hatched chicks.
 POL is the abbreviation for Point of Lay. It is the name given to pullets that are close or
ready to start production and laying of eggs.

Layers (Egg) business is obviously a lucrative business, but getting it wrong from the beginning
could be disastrous and make a farmer run into a severe loss. The actual issue is not the choice
you have made (DOC or POL). The major thing is the quality and history of the birds. Some
birds have a bad history or parents, and this will affect the general performances of such birds.
For example, birds whose parents are poor egg producers or come up with diseases often will
inherit these genes from their parents. They will begin to exhibit the trait later in their lifetime.
This is the primary reason why chicks must be procured from reputable hatcheries. Back to the
topic, if you want to choose between DOC and POL, you must consider the following:

1. Capital—How much do you have? No doubt, you need to have reasonable capital before you
can start any business. The amount of capital you have will determine if you need to choose
DOC or POL. If the capital is not sufficient enough to raise chicks from day 1 to week 17, then
you should go for point of lay. However, have it at the back of your mind that a point of lay
chicken will eat an average of 80g per day.
2. Level of Experience—Do you have any experience in raising chickens, especially layers?
What is your level of experience in the area—basic, intermediate or advanced? It is vital for you
to know how chickens are raised or managed. If you have basic or no experience in this area, you
are advised to go for point of lay. On the other hand, if you are experienced and you know what
should be done, you can start with DOC.

3. Goal—If your goal is to make profits within a few weeks of starting the business, go for POL
option. If your primary goal is to learn how to raise layers and not to make profits immediately,

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consider starting with DOC. Beginning with DOC will allow you to experience what raising
chicks is all about, and you will be able to learn from your mistakes.

4. Availability of Brooding Pen and Facilities—Do you have enough space, facilities and
resources to build the brooding, growing and laying pens? If you want to raise chickens from
DOC, you must have brooding house and/or growing house. These are where the chicks are
provided with the best care until they are mature and ready to lay. So if you know there is no
brooding house and there is no immediate plan to construct one, you should go for point of lay.

5. Age & Vaccination History—One of the challenges faced by farmers is the unavailability of
trusted chicken breeders or POL producers. Many breeders claim their birds have been
vaccinated up-to-date and ready for laying; however, one would discover that their claim is not
entirely true. Vaccination is very important in chicken farming. When a bird is not well or duly
vaccinated, such a bird will always be down with several diseases and would eventually die. So
if you’re or will be unable to get a trusted point of lay seller(s), you should go for chicks. At
least, you will be sure of the vaccination and medication history and age of your birds, and in
case a problem arises, you will be able to figure out the problem’s source. Nevertheless, if you
can get a trusted POL seller, you can get the birds and take them down to your farm.. I have
referred several clients to them and their experience with the POL bought were great and
positive.

Choosing between day old chick and point of lay is a personal thing. However, in order to make
the right choice, you should consider the four things above. I want to reiterate that there is
nothing wrong with starting with DOC and POL. The most important thing is to have a hitch-free
production period which is determined by what you start with

NOTE 2:
Layers Feed Intake and Weight/Growth Chart
by Akinbobola A. 4 Comments

As a poultry farmer, it is important that you know if your layer chickens are performing
according to standard. That is, knowing if they are growing and feeding as required. This would
help you know if they are converting their feed well.

Below is a table showing the standard growth rate and feed intake for layers.
The table below will answer the following questions:

 What quantity of feed will a pullet consume/eat between day old (DOC) to point of lay
(POL)?
 What quantity/amount of feed should a layer eat per day/week?
 What volume of water should a layer drink per day/week?
 What is the growth rate of layers or laying chickens)?

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  What should be the average weight of a layer each week?

When should you change from starter (chick mash) to grower diet, and from grower diet to
layer diet?

Remark:

 Average BW= Average Body Weight

 Average FI= Average Feed Intake
 Cumulative FI= Cumulative Feed Intake
 Average WC= Average Water Consumption
 SD= Starter Diet
 GD= Grower Diet
 POL= Point of Lay

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

(kg/bird) (g/bird/day) (kg to date) (ml/bird/day)

1 0.065 14.5 0.1015 25.5

2 0.125 19 0.2345 38

3 0.19 24 0.4025 46.5

4 0.265 28 0.5985 56.5

5 0.36 35 0.8435 65.5

6 (SD ends) 0.46 39 1.1165 71.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

7 (GD starts) 0.56 42 1.4105 78

8 0.67 47 1.7395 87

9 0.78 56 2.1315 93

10 0.89 54 2.5095 101

11 0.99 60 2.9295 109.5

12 1.08 64 3.3775 117.5

13 1.165 69 3.8605 124.5

14 1.23 72 4.3645 128.5

15 1.3 74 4.8825 133

16 1.37 77 5.4215 138.5

17 (POL) 1.44 80 5.9815 146.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

18 1.52 85 6.5765 152.5

19 1.62 88 7.1925 161

20 1.68 94 7.8505 169.5

21 1.72 98 8.5365 176.5

22 1.77 102 9.2505 183.5

23 1.8 106 9.9925 188.5

24 1.84 108 10.7485 191

25 1.85 109 11.5115 192.5

26 1.86 110 12.2815 193.5

27 1.88 110 13.0515 193.5

28 1.89 110 13.8215 193.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

29 1.9 110 14.5915 193.5

30 1.9 110 15.3615 193.5

31 1.9 111 16.1385 195

32 1.91 111 16.9155 195

33 1.91 111 17.6925 195

34 1.91 111 18.4695 195

35 1.91 111 19.2465 195

36 1.92 111 20.0235 195

37 1.92 111 20.8005 195

38 1.92 111 21.5775 195

39 1.93 111 22.3545 195

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

40 1.93 111 23.1315 195

41 1.93 111 23.9085 195

42 1.94 111 24.6855 195

43 1.94 111 25.4625 195

44 1.94 110.5 26.236 195

45 1.95 110 27.006 193.5

46 1.95 110 27.776 193.5

47 1.95 110 28.546 193.5

48 1.95 110 29.316 193.5

49 1.95 110 30.086 193.5

50 1.95 109.5 30.8525 193.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

51 1.95 109 31.6155 191.5

52 1.95 109 32.3785 191.5

53 1.95 109 33.1415 191.5

54 1.95 109 33.9045 191.5

55 1.96 109 34.6675 191.5

56 1.96 109 35.4305 191.5

57 1.96 109 36.1935 191.5

58 1.96 109 36.9565 191.5

59 1.96 109 37.7195 191.5

60 1.96 109 38.4825 191.5

61 1.96 109 39.2455 191.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

62 1.96 109 40.0085 191.5

63 1.96 109 40.7715 191.5

64 1.96 109 41.5345 191.5

65 1.96 109 42.2975 191.5

66 1.96 109 43.0605 191.5

67 1.96 109 43.8235 191.5

68 1.96 109 44.5865 191.5

69 1.96 109 45.3495 191.5

70 1.97 109 46.1125 191.5

71 1.97 109 46.8755 191.5

72 1.97 109 47.6385 191.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

73 1.97 109 48.4015 191.5

74 1.97 109 49.1645 191.5

75 1.97 109 49.9275 191.5

76 1.97 109 50.6905 191.5

77 1.97 109 51.4535 191.5

78 1.97 109 52.2165 191.5

79 1.97 109 52.9795 191.5

80 1.97 109 53.7425 191.5

81 1.97 109 54.5055 191.5

82 1.97 109 55.2685 191.5

83 1.97 109 56.0315 191.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

84 1.97 109 56.7945 191.5

85 1.97 109 57.5575 191.5

86 1.97 109 58.3205 191.5

87 1.97 109 59.0835 191.5

88 1.97 109 59.8465 191.5

89 1.97 109 60.6095 191.5

90 1.98 108 61.3655 191.5

91 1.98 108 62.1215 189.5

92 1.98 108 62.8775 189.5

93 1.98 108 63.6335 189.5

94 1.98 108 64.3895 189.5

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AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

AGE (WEEK) AVERAGE BW AVERAGE FI CUMULATIVE FI AVERAGE WC

95 1.98 108 65.1455 189.5

96 1.98 108 65.9015 189.5

97 1.98 108 66.6575 189.5

98 1.98 108 67.4135 189.5

99 1.98 108 68.1695 189.5

100 1.98 108 68.9255 189.5

NOTE 3:
Grower Feed Formula & Nutritional Composition

What is Grower Feed?

Grower feed is the type of feed given to laying chickens from when they are 8 weeks old until
they are ready to start producing and laying eggs (usually between age 18 weeks and 22 weeks.
Once the young chicks are 8 weeks old, you will have to switch their diet to grower feed.

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As its name implies, the grower feed will stimulate the growth of your birds in a healthy way. It
is specially formulated or made for pullets to prepare their body and reproductive organs for the
egg-laying activities. It is the next feed given to young pullets after brooding.

Although, some poultry farmers give grower feed to cockerels, broilers, turkeys, ducks and
rabbits. Yes, there is no harm in serving the feed to them, but it is important to ensure that the
nutritional requirements of these animals are met. As soon as the young pullets start laying
eggs, you should prepare to switch to the layer feed.

The Nutritional Composition of Grower’s Feed

A typical grower feed should contain the following:

NUTRIENT AMOUNT REQUIRED

Metabolizable Energy (ME) 2800 kcal/kg (min)

Crude Protein (CP) 18.00% (min)

Crude Fat 5.00% (max)

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Crude Fibre (CF) 8.00% (max)

Calcium 1.00% (min)

Phosphorus, available 0.40% (min)

Lysine 1.00% (min)

Methionine 0.45% (min)

Methionine + Cystine 0.80% (min)

Threonine 0.60% (min)

Tryptophan 0.20% (min)

Grower Feed Formula Example

If you need a grower feed formula example to produce your own grower feed, find a sample
below:

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 INGREDIENT QUANTITY (KG/100KG)

Maize 45

Soya Meal 7.5

Wheat Offal 12

Limestone 5

Bone Meal 2.5

Palm Kernel Cake 12

Groundnut Cake 15

Premix 0.25

Toxin Binder 0.15

Salt 0.3

Super Liv 0.05

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 INGREDIENT QUANTITY (KG/100KG)

Methionine 0.15

Lysine 0.1

TOTAL 100 KG

Disclaimer: Livestocking is not responsible for any damage, loss or negative effect of using the
above formula on your birds.

NOTE 4:
How to Boost or Increase Egg Production
The egg is a fundamental part of the diet of many people because it is a food with proteins of
excellent quality and rich in nutrients. This has caused a great demand for eggs in the market. If
you’re raising laying hens to produce eggs either for business or self-consumption,
you will surely be interested in knowing how to increase the egg production of your hens.

There are different factors that influence egg production, such as breed, diet, and some
management practices. If you want to know how to increase the egg production of laying birds,
then continue reading.

Influence of Diet (Feed) on Laying Performance

Depending on the breed, a pullet would have to be about 4 to 5 months old from the day it
hatched before it starts laying eggs. A chicken farmer must be well-prepared to meet the costs of
rearing pullets throughout the brooding to growing period. One challenge many poultry farmers
have is feeding the young chickens. Many farmers underfeed their birds during the growing (pre-
lay) period to minimize production costs.

A poultry farmer shouldn’t have problems buying feeds when the chickens start laying because it
is at this stage that the birds should be generating revenue or profit for the farmer from the eggs
laid by them to cover their feeding costs.

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 Isa
Brown chickens kept in battery cages
The way pullets are managed during their brooding and growing phase influences their
performance at the laying period. Indicators of performance must be available, and these
indicators are to be monitored in the brooding, growing, and egg-laying phases of layers. One of
these performance indicators is body weight.
Any underfed pullet will inevitably become underweight and will also experience late maturity.
Pullets in this category will lay small eggs, and their eggs production will reduce more sharply
after getting to the peak.

Overfeeding leads to the production of overweight birds. The disadvantage of overweight pullets
is that they can never attain or sustain high egg laying production. Pullets that are raised under
good management produce eggs at the highest peak, and they are less susceptible to problems of
egg production.

Common Management Problems That Affects Egg Production

The problems associated with the management of layers, which are encountered by poultry
farmers are discussed below. Most of these problems can be averted. One thing about these
problems is that if they are not addressed quickly, they could result in critical economic losses.

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1. Broodiness

Hens have a natural tendency to incubate their eggs. This trait is not found in commercial layers
because it was bred out. Nonetheless, some hens still become broody occasionally. Any broody
hen is always unproductive and it inconveniences other birds by sitting in the laying nest. Broody
hens should be separated from the flocked and kept on a bare floor till the broodiness is lost.
After, they can be taken back to the laying house to continue laying eggs.

2. Cannibalism

Cannibalism is a situation where a chicken pecks and injures another chicken. It begins when a
bird is injured and other birds start to peck the injured area or part. Most times, an injured bird
bleeds to death. Cannibalism can be prevented by trimming the beaks of the birds. If any
injured bird is sighted, it must be removed from the flock before it results in serious injuries or
death. Overcrowding, underfeeding, proteins or amino acid deficiencies, and boredom are major
factors that lead to cannibalism.

3. Egg Eating

Egg eating may occur when a hen lays soft-shelled eggs. It happens when birds are deficient of
certain nutrients such as calcium. As a result of this, the feed provided must be balanced and
meet all the nutritional requirements of the birds. A hen is tempted to peck at an emerging egg if
it sees an egg coming out from the cloaca of another hen. When the egg is pecked, it breaks, and
the hen starts to eat it immediately. To avoid this incidence, farmers must construct proper laying
nests. Each nest should accommodate one bird at a time. The nests should be partially covered to
become dark if the nests are the communal type.

4. Decreased Daylight
Lighting is a factor that influences the rate of egg production and the size of the eggs. Therefore,
chickens must be provided with 17 hours of light (natural + artificial) from 18 weeks of age.

5. Poor Hygiene and Diseases

It is of great importance to keep the facilities and equipment such as drinking troughs and feeders
of the chickens clean. This is simply because lack of proper hygiene and sanitation could result
in less or poor egg production, and even increased bird mortality. It is also important to avoid
that chickens are infected with different diseases and to know the most frequent laying hen
diseases and how to avoid them.

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6. Infertility

Due to infertility and a poor state of health, some birds stop laying eggs. This kind of birds must
be culled (removed from the flock). All things being equal, all your birds should start laying eggs
in their 25th week. After the 25th week, the farmer should start looking for unproductive birds,
and any found should be culled to prevent feed and labour loss.

Now that you know some causes and factors that influence to increase egg production, it only
remains to put what you have learned into practice. You will observe how your birds improve
their posture, resulting in more trade and improvement of the farm

NOTE 5:
How to Sell Eggs, Chickens and Other Farm Products
Quickly

No doubt, every poultry farmer wants to sell his or her eggs, chickens or other farm products
faster without reducing profits. It is rather unfortunate that a lot of farmers find it challenging to
sell farm products quickly. The reason for this might not be attributable to low demand but could
be as a result of poor or no marketing strategies in place.

Focusing on other aspects of your poultry business without giving the sales and marketing part
the required attention could put your business and profit in a serious jeopardy. After all, your
goal is to make sales. So while concentration on the operational parts of your poultry business,
endeavor to work on the sales and marketing angle of the business. When you make quick sales
by selling your eggs or chickens quickly, you will be happy and encouraged to give your best to
the operational or production part.
This article will briefly describe 9 strategies you could apply to sell your farm products such as
eggs or chickens faster than before. It is not compulsory to use all but apply the ones that seem
convenient for you.

1. Sell directly to the final consumer or retailers

Some poultry farmers are in the habit of selling their poultry products in bulk to the middlemen.
That is good but sometimes, it could affect the speed of your sales. There is nothing wrong in
selling to the final consumers or retailers. As a farmer, I sell my products to both the middlemen
and the final consumers. This is easier if you have your own store where retailers or final
consumers can easily walk in and buy your eggs or chickens. However, adhere strictly to selling
in crates and not in pieces.

2. Market your business on the internet

It is quite surprising that a lot of farmers and farm owners don’t know how the Internet would

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help their business if they adopt the idea of selling or marketing their business online. If you
don’t take your business online in this current digital age, then you are losing big. Why? Many
people who need your products are surfing the internet, looking for recommendations and where
to get these products. Don’t be surprised that many farms now have websites, social media
accounts and some engage in social marketing.
Did you know that you can help your poultry business through your social media accounts such
as Facebook and Instagram? Facebook and Instagram allow you to network yourself with people
who are important to your business. These platforms allow you to post eye-catchy pictures or
images with captions. You can take advantage of this by posting attractive pictures of your eggs
or big chickens with a nice, captivating caption with your store address. The picture would
definitely be shared, liked and comments would roll in, hence, increasing your audience and of
course, increase sales.

It is important to create a website for your poultry farm business irrespective of your production
scale. When you have a website, your business would be discovered online by buyers and they
will definitely contact you.

3. Supply Restaurants, Grocery, and Hotels

You can also supply chickens and eggs to restaurants, grocery and hotels. These establishments
need a regular supply of poultry meat and eggs, and they wouldn’t hesitate to accept the super
offer from a farm with a good reputation. You just prepare an excellent proposal with irresistible
incentives that you would be offering such establishment, and send the proposal to the manager.
You should remember that you have competitors doing the same. Therefore, ensure that your
incentives are really great and irresistible to win the heart of the management of the organization
you’re sending your proposal to.
4. Recruit marketing personnel
This strategy is funny, right? Well, for your mind, it might be funny but it is effective. This tactic
could boost your sales if it is done rightly. You only need to recruit committed marketers who
would market your farm products while they earn a certain percentage as commission on every
sale made through them.

5. Feed your birds very well

Consumers or buyers are attracted to healthy, big poultry birds and eggs. Fortunately, it is when
these birds are fed well that high quality could be achieved. Without proper feeding, your birds
cannot produce quality meat or good eggs. So endeavor to take good care of your flock for better
product yield.

6. Slaughter and process your products

It is good if you can slaughter and process your chickens or turkeys and sell to consumers. This
is not difficult to do. You only need to process in a hygienic environment and ensure that you
adhere to high standard sanitation and hygiene practices. Your packaging should be excellent to
attract buyers.

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7. Advertise your farm and products
Advertising your farm and products is one good way to create public awareness for your
business. Your customer base and business visibility will increase. That is an automatic increase
in revenue.

8. Conduct market research and survey

As a businessperson, you must conduct regular market research to identify the needs and
preferences of your customers or prospects. Doing this would make it easy for you to know
where your business needs to improve. When you are able to improve, you are able to have
happy customers and more referrals.

9. Nice product packaging and incentives

Always package your products very well, and give incentives to your customers to increase their
loyalty. Besides, when your products are nicely packaged, people would want to give high
preference to your products.

These are the few strategies you can apply to boost the sales of your farm products such as eggs,
mature birds, pigs and other farm products. I hope you apply them and share the results.

NOTE 6:
Special Feed Formula for Optimal Chicks, Growers &
Layers Performance

by Akinbobola A. 13 Comments
For many years that I have been a consultant to individuals and farms, the most asked question
by my clients is: “What can I do to make my birds grow fast or lay well?” Well, there is no
gimmick to achieving this, except they consume the right feed containing the required nutrients.
However, while there are good and bad livestock feed milling companies, the problems have
always been chickens performing below par and the high cost of procuring ready-made feeds.

Studies by researchers in the field have revealed that some of the ready-made feeds in Nigeria
are low-quality in terms of ingredients used and nutritional composition. Hence, the reason why
poultry chickens are performing poorly.
I had personally tried several popular commercial feeds but sincerely, I was not satisfied with the
result or performance. So I took it upon myself to formulate feeds that will give me the results I
want for broilers, cockerels and layers. After coming up with several formulas, I was able to get
these ones that gave me superb results.

This is a product of my vast experiences in poultry farming and nutrition, and it is something you
need to use if you want your layer chickens or cockerels to perform optimally and maximally,

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and at a cheaper cost. The feed formulas in this product have been used for commercial
production. The formulae are categorized into three:

1. Chick feed formula: Should be given to chickens from one day old to 8 weeks of age.
2. Grower feed formula: Should be given to the birds from 8 weeks of age to 18 weeks of age
(or when production is around 10%)
3. Layer feed formula: Should be given from 18 weeks of age to when the laying chickens
reach very old age.

These feed formulas will ease your chickens’ journey and performance from their day 1 through
to their laying period. All things being equal, with these formulas, it is 95% GUARANTEED
that your birds will achieve good weight faster and will start dropping around 18 weeks of age
and peak at the 28th weeks of age.
The nutritional composition of each feed in this document are presented as follows:

Chick Feed

 Metabolizable Energy = 2804.81 kcal/kg

 Crude Protein = 20.17%
 Crude Fiber = 4.00%
 Calcium = 1.66%
 Crude Fat = 4.35%
 Ash = 2.39%
 Phosphorus, Available = 0.46%
 Tryptophan = 0.20%
 Lysine = 0.83%
 Methionine = 0.40%
 Cystine = 0.31%

Grower Feed

 Metabolizable Energy = 2610.48 Kcal/Kg

 Crude Protein = 16.03%
 Crude Fiber = 7.63%
 Crude Fat = 4.85%
 Ash = 2.77%
 Phosphorus, available = 0.72%
 Calcium = 1.51%
 Tryptophan = 0.13%
 Lysine = 0.92%

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  Methionine = 0.44%
 Cystine = 0.15%

Layer Feed

 Metabolizable Energy = 2631.56 Kcal/Kg

 Crude Protein = 15.95%
 Crude Fiber = 5.08%
 Fat = 3.62%
 Ash = 1.91%
 Phosphorus, available = 0.64%
 Calcium = 3.64%
 Tryptophan = 0.17%
 Lysine = 0.77%
 Methionine = 0.37%
 Cystine = 0.27%

Why is using these feed formulas better than buying the ready-made commercial feeds?
(The advantages)

1. They were made and used by an experienced poultry nutritionist and farmer
2. The ingredients are locally available, making them very easy to source or purchase.
3. The ingredients are cheap
4. The ingredients are in the appropriate ratios and they are formulated to meet the nutritional
requirements of chickens at each stage of growth or production
5. Confidence and rest of mind knowing what exactly your chickens are eating
6. Improved feed conversion to add more weight and better egg laying performance
7. Adjustable or correctable at any time
8. In a situation where an ingredient is not available, it is possible to get a substitute(s)

While this product is sold together (chick, grower and layer), you can buy each separately. The
prices are as follow:

 Chick feed= ₦5,000

 Grower Feed = ₦7000
 Layer Feed = ₦13,000
 Combo (chick, grower and layer) = ₦20,000

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NOTE 7:
How to Identify good and poor layer chickens (Physical
Features)

by Akinbobola A. 2 Comments
Distinguishing between a good layer and bad layer could be quite difficult for
inexperienced poultry farmers. For example, you may be interested in buying point of lay
chickens, and you would want to buy good, healthy chickens. That means you must know the
physical characteristics of good and poor layers.

Below is a table highlighting the physical characteristics of good layers and poor layers.

PARAMETER GOOD LAYERS POOR LAYER

Vigour Strong Weak and unthrifty

Breed type Wedge shape body Shallow and tendency towards rocker keel

Head Neat, refined Beefy and crow head

*Comb and Wattles Full, red, waxy, warm and velvety Very long, thin and sharp pointed

*Eyes Full, bright and alert Dull and sleepy

*Beak Stocky and well-curved Very long, thin and sharp pointed

*Ear lobes Full waxy and velvety Shrunked and coarse

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 PARAMETER GOOD LAYERS POOR LAYER

Neck Stock and rather short Long and thin

Body Capacious Limited capacity

*Back Broad and straight Narrow and crooked

*Sides Deep and straight Shallow and barrel-shaped

*Keel bone Long and well-curved Short and crooked

*Pelvic bones Wide apart and thin Close together and thick

*Skin Thin, soft and oily Thick, dry and rough

*Abdomen Large, soft and free from fat Small, hard with thick fat

*Vent Full, larger and moist Small and dry

*Feathers Warm and soiled Clean and perfect

Legs Wide apart and well-set Close together and knock-kneed

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 PARAMETER GOOD LAYERS POOR LAYER

*Shanks Thin and soft in back Full, hard and round in the back

*Toe nails Stocky and well-curved Long and thin

Temperament Alert, active and friendly Shy, nervous and quacky

Moult Late and rapid Early and slow

NOTE 8:
6 Ways You Can Maintain Healthy Bird Weight
Kevin Hill Leave a Comment

There are numerous things that you can do to help your bird gain or maintain a healthy
weight. However, if you suspect a loss in weight, you must immediately schedule an
appointment with the vet and get a proper diagnosis. Weighing and measuring livestock is a
primary step in ensuring the animals’ and birds’ health.

Understanding the Reason Behind the Weight Loss

Take your bird to an avian veterinarian to identify the root cause of the sudden weight loss. He
can recommend a course of action to help the bird get back to a healthy weight. However, if no
illness or problem has been detected, then the bird might need a change in the diet to get back to
a healthy and ideal body condition. Probably, giving the pet larger amounts of its favorite foods
may stimulate its appetite.

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6 Tips to Maintain Healthy Bird Weight

1. Feed a Balanced Diet

You must choose a feed that is rich in nutrients, which can ensure that the bird reaches the
optimum level of production. Feed variability will benefit them; feed the birds less human food
and give them a high-fibre content to improve their overall nutrition intake and resistance to
diseases.
2. Provide the Right Food Supplements

Supplements help in boosting the birds’ health and productivity by encouraging the growth of
beneficial microbes in the rumen. Find supplements that help in absorbing dietary protein and
increasing the appetite of the bird. Few supplements prevent gastrointestinal acidosis as well.

3. Use Technology

You must take advantage of technology like livestock scales to monitor the bird’s health in a
consistent and accurate way. Moreover, technology can provide you with timely and accurate
interpretations in the form of structural statistics. Various imaging tools and floor scales allow
you to monitor the birds’ health remotely, thus helping you make informed decisions about
rearing and feeding patterns from any location.
It is recommended that you use automated livestock scales as they are durable, accurate and cost-
effective. They also help in monitoring birds’ health, evaluating their performance and
measuring the feed conversion. These scales deliver accurate data; therefore, you can rely on
them for making good management decisions.
4. Prevent Livestock Diseases

If the birds are imported from temperate climates, they would lack the resistance to humidity,
parasites, heat and tropical diseases. Therefore, it is important to keep them in clean stalls to
avoid disease vectors. Understand what the bird is prone to and take appropriate measures to
combat diseases.

5. Stick to Traditional Farming Practices

Your bird can lose weight if you stop traditional farming practices and conventional grazing and
replace them with industrial systems that don’t take natural factors into consideration. Changing
farm practices will benefit only when the local breeds, resources, and feedstuffs are used and
wastage is reduced. If you feed the local breeds with a balanced diet along with fresh water and
supplements, they will remain healthy and be productive.

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6. Track Animal Performance

You can track the performance of the bird using weighing scales and identify whether it is
healthy or not. By monitoring its performance, you can identify diseases early on and even avert
dangerous diseases from spreading to other farm animals. It would be wise to invest in a well-
made, quality bird scale and keep a log of the bird’s weight every day. If you notice any
fluctuation from the normal weight amounting to an ounce or more in either direction, check
with an avian vet to ensure that your bird’s diet is on the right track. There are numerous scales
available in the market – choose the one that fits your requirements and budget.

6 Ways You Can Maintain Healthy Bird Weight

There are numerous things that you can do to help your bird gain or maintain a healthy
weight. However, if you suspect a loss in weight, you must immediately schedule an
appointment with the vet and get a proper diagnosis. Weighing and measuring livestock is a
primary step in ensuring the animals’ and birds’ health.

Understanding the Reason Behind the Weight Loss

Take your bird to an avian veterinarian to identify the root cause of the sudden weight loss. He
can recommend a course of action to help the bird get back to a healthy weight. However, if no
illness or problem has been detected, then the bird might need a change in the diet to get back to
a healthy and ideal body condition. Probably, giving the pet larger amounts of its favorite foods
may stimulate its appetite.

6 Tips to Maintain Healthy Bird Weight

1. Feed a Balanced Diet

You must choose a feed that is rich in nutrients, which can ensure that the bird reaches the
optimum level of production. Feed variability will benefit them; feed the birds less human food
and give them a high-fibre content to improve their overall nutrition intake and resistance to
diseases.
2. Provide the Right Food Supplements

Supplements help in boosting the birds’ health and productivity by encouraging the growth of
beneficial microbes in the rumen. Find supplements that help in absorbing dietary protein and
increasing the appetite of the bird. Few supplements prevent gastrointestinal acidosis as well.

3. Use Technology

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You must take advantage of technology like livestock scales to monitor the bird’s health in a
consistent and accurate way. Moreover, technology can provide you with timely and accurate
interpretations in the form of structural statistics. Various imaging tools and floor scales allow
you to monitor the birds’ health remotely, thus helping you make informed decisions about
rearing and feeding patterns from any location.
It is recommended that you use automated livestock scales as they are durable, accurate and cost-
effective. They also help in monitoring birds’ health, evaluating their performance and
measuring the feed conversion. These scales deliver accurate data; therefore, you can rely on
them for making good management decisions.
4. Prevent Livestock Diseases

If the birds are imported from temperate climates, they would lack the resistance to humidity,
parasites, heat and tropical diseases. Therefore, it is important to keep them in clean stalls to
avoid disease vectors. Understand what the bird is prone to and take appropriate measures to
combat diseases.

5. Stick to Traditional Farming Practices

Your bird can lose weight if you stop traditional farming practices and conventional grazing and
replace them with industrial systems that don’t take natural factors into consideration. Changing
farm practices will benefit only when the local breeds, resources, and feedstuffs are used and
wastage is reduced. If you feed the local breeds with a balanced diet along with fresh water and
supplements, they will remain healthy and be productive.

6. Track Animal Performance

You can track the performance of the bird using weighing scales and identify whether it is
healthy or not. By monitoring its performance, you can identify diseases early on and even avert
dangerous diseases from spreading to other farm animals. It would be wise to invest in a well-
made, quality bird scale and keep a log of the bird’s weight every day. If you notice any
fluctuation from the normal weight amounting to an ounce or more in either direction, check
with an avian vet to ensure that your bird’s diet is on the right track. There are numerous scales
available in the market – choose the one that fits your requirements and budget.

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NOTE 9:
Molting in Chickens: Everything You Need To Know
What is Molting and Why Do Chickens Molt?

Molting or moulting is the process where chickens naturally shed of old feathers to regrow new
ones. Molting is not a strange thing in poultry production. It’s a natural process that all chickens
go through every year. The reason for molting is very simple. Firstly, chickens molt or moult in
order to replace or replenish their feathers. Growing of new feathers is necessary for chickens as
it allows them (chickens) to regulate their body temperate easily and efficiently, particularly
those in colder regions.

Example of Molting

When Do Chickens Molt?

It’s worth mentioning that chicken will go through the molting process many times in their lives.
Juvenile molt, a term for the first molt in chicks, occurs when chicks are 6-8 days old. During the
juvenile molt, chicks lose their fluffy feathers to replace them with real feathers. The second
juvenile molt occurs when male chickens are about 8 – 12 weeks of age. This is when the
ornamental feathers grow. The first molt in adult chickens occurs when they are 18 months old.
The molting process in this stage last for 8 – 12 weeks—although there are some that molt for as
long as 6 months.

What are the Types of Molting in Chickens?

Furthermore, molting in adult chickens can either be soft molting or hard molting. In soft
molting, the molting process is gradual. That is to say, the birds lose their feathers slowly and
you would find it difficult to determine if the birds are molting. On the other hand, hard molting
is dramatic. The birds lose their feathers fast, making them look rough or naked.

What are Molting Triggers?

There are a number of molting triggers in chickens. Some common triggers for molting in
chicken include:

 Decreased daylight
 End of egg-laying cycle
 Malnutrition
 Non-typical lighting condition
 Lack of water

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  Physical stress
 Extreme heat

What are the Effects of Molting on Egg Laying Performance?

Have you ever wondered why spent or old layers don’t lay eggs while molting? Now, this is
what happens: When laying chickens are going through the molting process, they usually stop
laying eggs. This is because both egg and feather production cannot take place at the same time.
That is the reason why chickens stop laying eggs or have a significant reduction in egg
production when molting. After they have grown new fathers, the egg laying process will start
again.

How to Help Chickens Recover Quickly from Molting

Poultry farmers must assist their birds going through a molt by providing them with additional
protein. The normal crude protein of layer feed is 16%, but this should be increased to 20 – 25%
when layers are molting. The reason for this is that chickens use protein for feather production,
and the more protein available to them, the quicker they are able to come out of molting.

Disadvantages of Molting
Apart from cessation or reduction of egg production, molting has other disadvantages. The birds
are susceptible to pecking or cannibalism because of their naked or exposed skin. The birds also
feel uncomfortable and wouldn’t want to be handled during the molting period.

NOTE 10:
Causes and Cure of Egg Eating in Poultry

He further stated that the farm had done everything possible but the habit of egg eating didn’t
stop. This propelled me to write a post on this particular issue.

What is Egg Eating in Chickens?

Egg eating is an uncommon, terrible habit (a form of cannibalism) developed by some hens
where they eat their own eggs or the eggs laid by other chickens. This is common menace among
chickens raised on a deep-litter system. This particular habit is a financial threat and must not be
taken lightly by farmers.

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What are the Causes of Egg Eating Habit in Chickens?

The origin of this particular habit could be traced to boredom, curiosity, nutritional deficiencies
or other management error. It is obvious that chickens are very smart and it wouldn’t take long
before they realize that the eggs they lay are very tasty and rich in protein. Other causes of egg
eating include:

Overcrowding: If laying hens don’t have adequate space within their pen or scoop,
overcrowding would lead to stress and hence, might aggravate to eating their eggs.
Poor nesting space: If layers are not provided with good nesting space or bedding to lay their
eggs, they might be pushed to engage in egg eating.
Nutritional deficiencies: Deficiency in vital nutrients such as protein, calcium and vitamin D
could make your layer chickens eat their eggs. The lack of these nutrients in their feeds would
make they crave for these nutrients and hence discover they are present in the eggs they lay.

How to Prevent Egg Eating?

Preventing egg eating is easier than curing the habit in your flock. Do the following to prevent
this habit in your flock:

 Provide adequate nests and space for your layers and place the nesting box in a dark and
quiet place within the pen.
 Always collect eggs as often as possible. This limits the chances of egg cracking or
breakage which encourages the hens to eat them up. It is recommended to collect eggs
every hour, especially in the morning.
 Provide a well-balanced, formulated feeds for your hens and ensure such feed does not
lack calcium, protein, and vitamins.

How to Cure Egg Eating Habit in Chickens?

In case your hens have developed the habit of eating their own eggs, it is still possible to resolve
the problem through some nutritional and management modifications which include:

 Feeding your laying hens with a calcium supplement such adding limestone, bone meal
and/or oyster sell to their feed. The additional calcium in their diet would enhance the
strength of the eggshell which indirectly lowers the chances of soft-shelled or cracked
eggs.
 Provide the hens with liquid milk and allow them to drink it. This should be done
continuously for several days and the rate of egg eating would greatly decrease.
 Immediately isolate any hen caught engaging in eating eggs. Normally, this particular
cannibalistic habit starts with one hen before other hens or chickens join. Always keep a
close and careful look on your chickens immediately you notice they eat their eggs. Look

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 at the beak of each chicken and any birds you spotted with egg yolk or pieces of eggshell
on their beaks should be removed from the flock instantly.

Final Note: If after doing all the above and the habit persists, the best thing is to cull all birds
and get a new flock. Since keeping them would incur financial losses for you

NOTE 11:
Biosecurity and Sanitation Practices in Livestock Farms

by Akinbobola A. Leave a Comment

Health management and biosecurity are very important in livestock production. Both need to be
carried out to prevent unnecessary mortality, revenue loss due to death, raising unwholesome
animals for human consumption.

What is Biosecurity?

Biosecurity is the term used to describe a general strategy or a succession of measures used to
prevent infectious diseases in a farm. Maintaining an effective biosecurity program, using good
hygiene practices, and following a comprehensive vaccination program are essential for disease
prevention. A comprehensive biosecurity program involves a sequence of planning,
implementation, and control. Since it is impossible to sterilize a shed or premises, the key to
successful biosecurity is to reduce the potential for pathogen introduction and to prevent the
spread of pathogens within the farm and its facilities.

Standard Biosecurity Measures for Livestock Farms

The following are standard and effective biosecurity measures that a livestock farm could adopt:

 Limit non-essential visitors to the farm. Keep a record of all approved visitors and their
previous visits to the farm and/or their contact with birds. Require a minimum downtime –
for instance, 72 hours – of “no bird contact” before a visitor can enter the farm.
 Supervisors and technical staff should always visit the younger herds before the older
herds. If they visit several farms in one day they have to program the youngest at the
beginning and then the others, according to the age of the birds. If they visit a farm with a
suspected or known disease, then they should not go to other farms in order to avoid the
transfer of a pathogenic organism to them.
 Avoid contact with other birds, especially backyard chickens.
 If equipment is to be brought in from another farm, it should be thoroughly cleaned and
disinfected before arriving at your own farm, and again upon arrival there.

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  Have toilets or spraying facilities for vehicle wheels at the entrance to the farm. Allow
only the necessary vehicles to enter the site.
 Farms must be fenced.
 Keep farm doors and shed doors closed at all times.
 In no way should other domestic birds be kept on the same farm. Farm animals other than
birds must be separated and have a different entrance to the poultry house.
 Pets should not be allowed to enter or move around poultry houses.
 All farms must have a vermin control plan that includes frequent monitoring of rodent
activity. Bait for rodents should be kept in well identified boxes.
 The area around the ships should be free of vegetation, debris and unused equipment,
which could harbor vermin.
 Fix feed leaks from silos and feed lines and clean up spills.
 Farms must have toilets and hand washing facilities separate from the poultry house.
 Ideally, poultry farms should have been built away from other poultry farms and from
rivers and ponds to limit any exposure to wild birds.
 If entry of any equipment into the farm is required, it must first be disinfected according to
the company protocol for biosecurity.
 Regarding the feed entrance, it is best to deliver it to a central container from outside the
perimeter fence of the farm and then transfer it to the silos of each pen.
 At the entrance to the farm, a facility dedicated to changing clothes and shoes should be
located. Ideally, a mandatory hot water shower policy and 5 minutes timed with the
necessary disinfecting agents.
 Have hand sanitizing facilities at the entrance to each warehouse.
 Provide well-groomed footbaths at the entrance of each pen.
 Place all utility meters – gas, water, and electricity – outside the farm to prevent farm staff
from having to enter it.
 Outdoor foot baths must be covered to avoid dilution of the disinfectant by rain and
environmental contamination.
 Clean shoes before using a foot bath to remove organic material, which could inactivate
the disinfectant.
 The shoe disinfectant must be broad in activity and fast acting.
 It is recommended that throughout the farm there are only chickens of a single age in order
to reduce the risk of pathogens and facilitate vaccinations.
 The chicks must come from breeders of the same age and that have had the same
vaccination program.
 If the litter is reused, all moistened or caked must be removed and heat must be provided
in time to release any accumulated ammonia and promote heating it before the entry of a
new herd.
 The emptying of the pens must be complete before the arrival of the new batch.
 The chicken collection teams must be provided with protective clothing and the material –
cages and wheelbarrows – be washed and disinfected before entering the farm, especially
if the emptying is not complete.
 At the end of each breeding remove all the birds from the farm.
 Apply an insecticide, if possible, immediately before removing the litter and for the pen to
cool down. Major insect infestations may require additional insecticide application after
the disinfection process has been completed.

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  Maintain rodent control program after removal of chickens.
 Remove all unused feed from feeders, hoppers and pipes.
 Carefully consider the health status of the previous flock before transferring leftover feed
to another farm to be used for other chickens.
 Remove the entire litter with covered vehicles.
 Clean all dust and debris from the building, paying special attention to less obvious places
such as air intakes, fan boxes and the top of walls and beams.
 Dry clean any equipment that cannot be washed directly – electrical equipment, for
example – and cover it completely to protect it from the washing process.
 With the farm now fully cleaned and disinfected, they must wait at least 3 days before a
new herd enters.
 The drinkers should be drained at the end of each brood and cleaned with an approved
disinfectant before entering the next herd. Make sure their lines have been completely
drained to remove any residue and fill them with clean water before entering the next herd.
 Test the water at least annually to ensure its mineral levels and microbial quality.
 Conduct frequent biosecurity audits on each farm – the entire facility – to ensure
compliance with company expectations for cleanliness, disinfection, and biosecurity.

What is Sanitation?
The most important factor in keeping birds healthy is good hygiene. Herds from healthy parents
and good hatchery hygiene go a long way in starting off with disease-free chicks, but farm
sanitation is vitally important to keeping chickens healthy throughout their growth.
Farm sanitation doesn’t just mean choosing the right disinfectant. Its key is effective cleaning
since all disinfectants are inactivated by organic material.

Steps for Effective Farm Sanitation

The following points are the basic steps for effective farm sanitation:

 In buildings with side curtains, special attention should be paid to cleaning them, both
inside and outside.
 The pen must be washed from one end to the other, paying special attention to the fans and
air inlets, doing it towards the end with the best drainage. No water basin should be left
around the house and the farm must have adequate drainage that meets local
environmental and legal requirements.
 The pen’s control rooms must be carefully cleaned as water can damage electrical
systems. The use of powerful air blowers, vacuum cleaners and cleaning with a damp cloth
– the latter when possible and with safety in mind – can be useful in such areas.
 If there is a water storage tank, open it whenever possible and clean it with a detergent.
 Completely drain the sprues and the header tank before adding the cleaning solution.
 Removable equipment must first be cleaned with a detergent and then thoroughly
disinfected.
 Any equipment or material that cannot be cleaned should not be reused for the next
upbringing, but rather disposed of safely.

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  Open the water drainage holes and wash all the interior surfaces of the house and the fixed
equipment with a general detergent by means of a pressure washer. If a foam or gel is
used, allow the recommended soaking time to allow the product adequate time to
work. The process should be carried out by default, from the ceiling to the floor of the
warehouse. If the fans are on the ceiling they should be washed before it.
 External areas such as gutters, fan boxes, driveways, and concrete areas should also be
cleaned, removing all trash or agricultural organic matter. Unused and unnecessary
equipment should be removed from the farm.
 Carry out facility repairs at this point and recap open drain holes for flushing.
 The exterior concrete areas and the ends of the nave must be completely washed.
 Drying after disinfection is advantageous, and heat and/or fans can be used to speed up this
process.
 Staff areas – dining rooms, locker rooms, and offices – should also be thoroughly
cleaned. All footwear and clothing should receive a complete wash and disinfection at this
time.
 When choosing which disinfectant product to use, check the label to verify the
recommended temperature(s) for optimum effectiveness. Also check its effectiveness
against bacteria and viruses.
 Apply an effective broad-spectrum disinfectant using a pressure washer. Thoroughly soak
all interior surfaces and equipment from top to bottom. Fan housings, air inlets, and joists
and posts require special attention.
 After disinfection, biosecurity controls should be re-established at the entrance to the
house.
 Adequate downtime between flocks will increase the effectiveness of the hygiene program.
 To monitor the effectiveness of the sanitation program, visual inspection and microbial
sampling using swabs are suggested.
 The effectiveness of the sanitation program can be measured by
quantitative laboratory tests.
 Sterilization of facilities is not realistic, but microbiological control can confirm that
unwanted organisms such as salmonella have been removed.
 A documented audit that includes microbiological monitoring and attention to the results
of subsequent flocks can help determine the effectiveness and value of the sanitation
program.

NOTE 12:
12 Common Poultry Diseases and How to Deal With
Them

All poultry farmers love to see their chickens doing fine every day. As a chicken farmer, how do
you feel whenever you enter the pen of your chickens are you see them doing fine and coming
closer to welcome you? A fascinating and memorable feeling, right? You will also love it when
your chickens lay eggs regularly as a reward for your hard work on them.

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Did you know that the happy feeling above would change if the situations are different and
negative? When your chickens come down with diseases, their performances are negatively
impacted and because they look unhappy because of their poor state of health, you will also be
unhappy.
There are some common poultry diseases that you need to know about as well as how to treat
them. They are as follows:

1. Marek’s Disease

Marek’s Disease (MD) is a viral disease that affects chickens and it causes tumor. This disease
affects only female chickens and occurs in chickens between 6 to 20 weeks of age. Marek’s
disease is highly contagious and can be transmitted from an infected bird to uninfected birds or
through the air.
Signs and symptoms: Paralysis of the legs and wings. In the classical form of Marek’s disease,
the affected chickens lie on their side with one leg stretched backward and the other leg stretched
forward. In the acute form, many chickens die suddenly without showing any sign of illness
while some chickens show paralytic symptoms and appear depressed before dying. Other signs
include paleness, loss of weight, shrunken comb and diarrhea.
Treatment: Marek’s disease has no treatment, but to avoid the incidence of MD, day-old chicks
must be vaccinated against the disease.

2. Newcastle Disease

Newcastle disease (also known as Ranikhet disease) is a viral disease that is caused by
paramyxoviruses. These viruses are of various types. There are the very harmful type,
moderately harmful type and mildly harmful type. This disease can be transmitted through the
air, feed, water and carrier birds.
Signs and symptoms: With very harmful paramyxoviruses, the first sign is sudden death. Other
signs like weakness, depression, greenish diarrhea, lying down, swelling of the face and nervous
signs will also be observed. Torticollis (twisting of the neck), leg paralysis, arching of the body
are some other indications of Newcastle disease. In layers, laying of soft-shelled or shell-less
eggs is an early sign, followed by totally halting of egg laying. Moderately harmful
paramyxoviruses are responsible for severe respiratory problems. In adult chickens, there is
usually obvious decline in egg production for many months. However, the mortality rate is low.
The mildly harmful paramyxoviruses may not cause any disease or just a mild respiratory
problem.
Treatment: Newcastle Diseases has no treatment, but can be prevented through vaccination,
maintaining a high level of farm hygiene, good management and biosecurity measures.

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3. Infectious Bronchitis

This is a rapid, sudden and high contagious viral poultry disease. It’s caused by a coronavirus
and could be transmitted through the air, contaminated materials and carrier hosts.

Signs and symptoms: Abnormal respiratory sounds, snoring, gasping, sneezing and coughing,
watery nasal discharge, ocular discharge and swelling of the face. Reduced egg production and
poor eggshell quality.

Treatment: Infectious bronchitis has no specific treatment, but you can administer antibiotics in
mixed infections. You should also take affected chickens to a warm, dry place to recover. Some
farmers have tried warm herb tea and fresh herbs, and they claimed they worked.

To prevent Infectious Bronchitis, vaccinate your chickens against the disease and maintain
proper ventilation of chicks.

4. Fowl Pox

Fowl pox is a viral disease that could be transmitted through body wounds or scratches, a vector
carrying the virus (e.g., mosquitos) and through the air.

Signs and symptoms: If you notice something like pox lesions on wattles, comb and/or legs,
discharge from nostrils, white ulcers or cheesy membrane in mouth, loss of appetite, decline in
egg production, foamy materials in corners of eyes or white spots on the skin, your chickens are
undoubtedly developing or already down with Fowl Pox.

Treatment: Since this is a viral disease, there is no exact drug. However, you should remove the
necrotic membrane from affected chickens’ mouth and larynx. You can stimulate appetite with
wet feed (mash) and add antibiotics and multivitamins to their drinking water. Ensure that you
use good disinfectant during the outbreak of the disease.

To prevent Fowl Pox, you need to vaccinate your chickens with Fowl Pox vaccine and control
mosquitoes in and around the chicken coop or pen.

5. Botulism

This is a serious disease caused by the botulism toxin produced by the bacterium Clostridium
botulinum. The disease affects the nervous system of chickens, causing body weakness and
paralysis. Chickens can pick up the disease when they drink water or eat feed that has been
contaminated with botulism toxin.

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Signs and symptoms: If you notice that your chickens have progressing tremor that later
develops into a paralysis of the body and breathing difficulty. The feathers pull out easily and the
affected chickens die within a few hours.

Treatment: Administer an expensive botulism antitoxin from a vet drug store. If you’re able to
diagnose or detect the disease early, mix one (1) teaspoon of Epsom salts with 3 cl of warm
water. Administer the solution to the affected chickens once a day.

To prevent botulism, always maintain good farm hygiene and sanitation. Avoid feed and water
contamination and all dead carcasses should be buried far from the chickens’ pen or
environment.

6. Fowl Cholera or Avian Pasteurellosis

Fowl Cholera is a highly contagious bacterial disease that affects poultry birds. It is caused by
Pasteurella multocida and could be transmitted through ingestion of contaminated food and
water or from a carrier host chicken.

Signs and symptoms: Yellowish or greenish diarrhoea, difficulty in breathing, swollen joint,
purple comb and wattle, oral, nasal and ocular discharges, ruffled feathers and loss of appetite.

Treatment: Fowl cholera can be treated with penicillin, streptomycin, erythromycin,

tetracyclines and sulphonamides. You will need to administer drugs for long-term because the
disease usually returns after stopping medication.

To prevent Fowl Cholera, administer F. Cholera vaccine and maintain a high level of farm
hygiene and sanitation. Prevent rodents, cats and wild birds from gaining access to the pen.

7. Infectious Coryza

Infectious Coryza or Fowl Coryza is a severe respiratory disease that affects chicken and it could
be sudden. This disease is common in layers and broilers and it is caused by Haemophilus
paragallinarum. It could be transmitted water contaminated with nose discharges, through the
air, or through direct contact with an infected chicken.

Signs and symptoms: Swelling of the head (comb, wattle and eyes), sneezing, stringy discharge
from the nose and eyes, conjunctivitis with closed eyes, difficulty in breathing and moisture
under the wings. Other symptoms of infectious coryza include reduced feed and water
consumption and huge drop or halt in egg production.

Treatment: Infectious Coryza can be treated with antibiotics and sulpha drugs. Oxytetracycline,
enrofloxacin, trimethoprim and sulpha drug can be combined to treat infectious coryza.

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Chickens can be protected from infectious coryza through vaccination. Dispose all infected
chickens or those that had recovered. Sanitation and hygiene and avoid keeping chickens of
different ages together.

8. Thrush

The thrush in chickens is similar to baby’s thrush. It can be contracted by chickens that eat feed
or food that has grown moldy; that is, moldy feed or food. They can also contract the disease by
drinking contaminated water.

Signs and symptoms: White oozy substance inside the crop of infected chickens. Increased
appetite than normal. Lethargic appearance, crusty vent and ruffled feathers.
Treatment: Thrush can be treated by administering an antifungal drug. To avoid future
occurrence or reinfection, discard bad or moldy feed or food and contaminated water.

9.Chronic Respiratory Disease (CRD)

CRD is a mycoplasmal disease caused by Mycoplasma gallisepticum, and it affects the

respiratory tracts (including air sacs) of chickens and other birds. CRD can be transmitted
through hatching eggs, direct contact with carrier birds and through inhalation of contaminated
droplets, dust or feathers.

Signs and symptoms: Abnormal respiratory sounds, sneezing, nasal discharge, coughing and
sneezing. Reduced feed consumption, loss of body weight and decreased egg production.

Treatment: Chronic Respiratory Disease can be treated with several antibiotics. Tylosin,
oxytetracycline, streptomycin, neomycin, chlortetracycline, gentamicin, tiamulin, enrofloxacin,
lincomycin, erythromycin and other related drugs can be used to treat CRD.

10. Pullorum Disease (Salmonellosis)

Pullorum disease is a bacterial disease that is caused by a bacterium called Salmonella pullorum.
The disease is highly contagious and affects the blood of chickens, but characterized by white
diarrhoea. This is the reason why pullorum disease is also called Bacilliary White Disease
(BWD). It can be transmitted through the eggs, contaminated feed, water, litter and faeces.

Signs and symptoms: Depression and unusual huddling together, respiratory distress, white and
sticky faecal droppings, loss of appetite, pale, shrunken combs with ruffled feathers and decline
in egg production.
Treatment: Several antibiotics can be used to treat pullorum disease. However, furazolidone is
recommended. Pullorum disease can be controlled by good biosecurity measures and ensure you
procure your chicks from a reputable hatchery.

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11. Bumblefoot

Bumblefoot is an infection that is caused by staphylococcus bacteria and it is usually the

aftereffect when your chickens get their injured foot infected by this bacteria. The foot of the
affected chicken swells up because of infection. The cut or injury to the foot could occur when
the chicken is scratching the floor or a sharp object.

The only way to treat Bumblefoot is by performing surgery. It involves using a biopsy or scalpel
to cut out the scab and removing the underlying infected core. After removing the core, drain the
pus and soak the infected foot in warm water and Epsom Salts. Dry the foot with a clean bath
towel and apply honey or any microbial and Vetericyn VF. Cover the area up with gauze and
wrap with vet wrap to lock the bandage.

If bumblefoot infection is left untreated, the affected chicken may become completely lame and
could also die after other tissues in the body are affected.

The best way to prevent bumblefoot is to keep a close watch on the feet of your chickens. If you
observed that there is a cut on either of the feet, don’t hesitate to wash and disinfect the foot to
prevent it from becoming septic or infected with staphylococcus bacteria.

12. Coccidiosis

Though this list is not exhaustive, you can learn about other diseases by download this eBook
titled, A COLOUR ATLAS OF POULTRY DISEASES.

NOTE 13:
Coccidiosis in Poultry: Signs, Control & Prevention
What is Coccidiosis?

Coccidiosis or Cocci in poultry is an important protozoan disease that is capable of wiping out a
large of number of affected chickens overnight. Coccidiosis affecting poultry birds include
Eimeria tenella, E. necatrix, E. maxima, E. mivati, E. mitis, E. brunette etc. It is easier or better
to prevent than to cure it because a poultry farmer may not be aware that his birds have
coccidiosis until it is very late. Unfortunately, he might have lost a good number of chickens.
This is the reason why a poultry farmer needs to know what to look for and what is needed to be
done.
Coccidiosis is a protozoan disease that infects the intestine of poultry birds like broilers, layers,
turkeys and other animals. This disease can cause damage to the host bird within 4-7 days as the
Eimeria parasite replicates and damage the intestinal mucosa of the host within this period. This

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disease starts when poultry birds (broilers, layers or turkeys) ingest relatively many sporulated
oocysts of the parasite. These oocysts are present in litter, contaminated feed, soil, dust and
water. Furthermore, these oocysts can be transmitted by insects, clothing, pen materials or
equipment or in the faeces of infected birds. However, fresh oocysts are not harmful or effective
unless it is sporulated, and this could happen when the environmental temperature is around 70°–
90°F and with adequate oxygen and moisture within 24-48 hours. Depending on certain
environmental factor, sporulated oocysts may survive in the sporulated form for long periods and
they are resistant to some disinfectants but could be destroyed by high temperatures or freezing.

If one or some of your birds is infected with cocci and on deep-litter, it means that the chances
that the whole flock will be affected because they have access to the litter and the faeces excreted
by those infected.
Signs and Symptoms of Coccidiosis in Poultry

When birds are suffering from coccidiosis, the following are observed:

 Blood in droppings, blood-stained faeces or sticky white diarrhoea around the cloaca
 Drop in feed intake due to loss of appetite and this is followed by a rapid drop in body
weight
 Ruffled feathers and dropped wings
 High mortality rate in flock
 Reluctance to move and general weakness (fowl paralysis)
 Birds huddle together with closed eyes
 Pale wattles and combs

How to Treat or Control Coccidiosis in Poultry

Birds that are raised on a battery-cage system have fewer coccidia infections because they have
little or no access to litter or faecal droppings. Hence, it is recommended to raise birds in cages
rather than on deep-litter. However, if the birds are on a deep-litter system, the litter should be
changed regularly (once in two weeks) and avoid too much of water spilling on the litter. When
the litter is wet or smells ammonia, it should be evacuated and replaced to dry litter (wood
shavings).
Anti-coccidial vaccines and drugs could also be used as they are very effective in controlling
coccidiosis. Anti-coccidial drugs that can be used to treat coccidiosis include Prococ, Amprocox,
Coxstop and Sulpha drugs. Continuous use of low level of a coccidiostat through feed also helps.

Above all, maintaining a high level of hygiene and sanitation would greatly help in preventing
coccidiosis in your flock

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 1. Heat Stress in Poultry: Causes, Effects, Signs & Solutions

by Akinbobola A. 2 Comments
What is Heat Stress?

Heat stress is a condition in chickens (and other birds) caused by high temperatures, especially
when combined with high relative humidity and low airspeed. Some predisposing factors include
genetics, feather coverage, heat acclimatization, drinking water temperature, and availability.
Older birds, heavy breeds, and broilers are often more susceptible to heat stress.

Causes of Heat Stress

The main factors that cause heat stress in birds are commonly:

1. Environmental effects, such as solar radiation, high temperatures per season, and the
absence of winds
2. Technical failures, which are caused by poorly designed facilities, errors in water supply,
lack of ventilation, failure of cooling equipment, among others.

Effects of Heat Stress on Poultry

1. Severe heat stress can cause declines in production efficiency

2. Higher mortality rates in the flock.
3. Reduced growth rates
4. Low egg production and hatching rates.
5. Heat stress can also cause a change in the quality of the egg. You may notice smaller eggs,
thinner layers, and generally poor internal egg quality.

When presenting heat stress, the performance of the chickens is affected, the production losses
are very variable depending on the technical function, in the case of broiler chicken, feed
consumption is reduced, weight gain is less It delays in its size, in part, because in the last weeks
of the cycle, excessive heat is generated inside the house, because its body mass is very large in
proportion to its organs, and physiologically the thermoregulation process is not suitable. In the
laying hen, the problem is similar, overcrowding in the cage, the large number of chickens found
in the house generates a large amount of heat, and their production cycle is so long that they
become more susceptible to changes in temperature.

The calcium present in the blood for the calcification of the egg is lost, to alleviate the acidosis at
the blood level through the formation of carbonate for the elimination of the excess CO2.

By consuming less food, the hens consume less calcium and the levels of calcium in the blood
drop; therefore the calcification of the egg is lower.

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Water consumption is increased to compensate for fluid loss, but more watery faeces are
generated with more urine, which stains more eggs, increasing the percentage of dirty eggs; the
losses in these cases are highly quantifiable, since there is less production, more dirty eggs and a
higher percentage of fragile and broken eggs.

Mainly heat stress in birds is caused by the increase in the environmental and body temperature
of birds, which triggers a series of adverse physiological processes, if not treated in time.
Birds are very susceptible to very high temperatures and in some cases, they cannot bear extreme
temperatures for a long time, since there are two physiological and anatomical factors that make
birds more susceptible:

 Birds cannot sweat, therefore they do not have sweat glands and they lack this mechanism
to lower body temperature.
 Birds have an anatomical barrier, which is feathers, making it difficult to dissipate internal
heat and heat that comes from outside their body.

The main process for birds to thermoregulate when subjected to high temperatures is panting.
Some studies indicate that heat stress begins when the ambient temperature rises above 26.7°C
and becomes very apparent above 29.4°C. The internal temperature of an adult bird is around
40°C – 41.66°C, if this internal temperature reaches 43.3°C – 45.6°C, the bird is in danger of
death.

Thermoregulatory Mechanism in Poultry

Chickens and other poultry have a thermoregulatory system located in the hypothalamus,
responsible for the physiological mechanisms and adaptation reactions that control and maintain
body temperature. When the temperature exceeds the thermal comfort zone, the animal
undergoes a stress condition that causes its body to react in a compensatory way in an attempt to
increase heat dissipation and maintain the body’s thermal balance. This compensation involves
an expenditure of energy, which results in a reduction in the productive efficiency of the bird.

When birds detect increases in ambient temperature, the heat dissipation process begins. Panting
is the first sign of increasing temperature, birds begin to cool their air sacs by contact with the air
and the humidity in the bags, the higher the temperature, the air sacs increase the release of more
liquid, the frequency of panting is greater, and when the heat is extreme, its frequency and
intensity intensify to cool the birds, but dehydration is imminent, since as the frequency of
panting increases, the loss of liquids is also greater, the birds begin to drink more to compensate
for this lack of liquid, which highlights the importance of using an electrolyte at this stage of the
heat stress and avoid further dehydration.

Panting is a sign of heat stress

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Simple Management Solutions to Heat Stress Problem

Here are some tips on how to manage heat stress in chickens in the hot season:

1. Digestion generates body heat, so feeding poultry during the best times of the day.
2. Reduce the dietary energy level in feed.
3. Add shade and adequate ventilation.
4. Vitamin C or Ascorbic Acid is one of the most important vitamins in heat stress. The
serum CV is high when hot, its function can inhibit the increase in the body temperature of
poultry, increase food intake, and promote the recovery of damaged tissue cells. The high
temperature inhibits the synthesis of vitamin C in layers and requires additional
compensation.
5. Birds do not have sweat glands, so they cool off by panting. Panting can be a sign of heat
stress and the act of panting can upset the electrolyte balance of birds. If you suspect heat
stress, add electrolytes to the birds’ water.
6. One of the best ways to prevent heat stress is to avoid overpopulation. To instantly reduce
heat, reduce the number of birds in the house.
7. Avoid unnecessary activity. The summer heat puts enough stress on the birds. Be careful
not to disturb them during the hottest time of the day.

Poultry Diseases that are Rampant in the Cold or Wet Season

Poultry birds and poultry production are generally affected by seasonal climatic or weather
changes. For instance, in the wet or cold season, chickens eat more feed, drink less water and
huddle together to generate heat and keep themselves warm. On the other hand, chickens and
other livestock birds consume less feed and drink more water in the hot season or weather in
order to cool their body. Don’t be surprised that these changes affect the production of birds,
most especially laying birds, as the egg production is reduced in extremely cold or hot weather.
This reduction in egg production occurs because when there are extreme cold or hot conditions,
these birds are stressed, and their ability to withstand diseases or immune system is seriously
affected.

Some certain poultry diseases are rampant in the wet, rainy or cold seasons. That is, the onset of
rain favors the propagation and spread of the causative organisms of these diseases and parasites.
Hence, most poultry farmers experience high morbidity and mortality rate during this period.
We’re going to discuss some of the poultry diseases that are highly prevalent or rampant in the
wet, cold or rainy season.
1. Gumboro Disease or Infectious Bursal Disease (IBD)
Gumboro disease is a virulent disease that affects chicks and young birds of between 3-18 weeks
of age. The causative virus attacks the bursal of a bird thereby suppressing or weakening the
immune system and predisposing the birds to secondary infections.

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Signs of Gumboro diseases or IBD

 Severe prostration
 Watery diarrhoea
 Incoordination
 Inflammation of the cloaca
 Soiled vent feathers
 Vent picking

Treatment, Prevention and Control

Gumboro disease is highly contagious and a flock owner should expect as high as 100%
morbidity rate and 20% mortality rate. This disease has no cure or treatment but it can be
prevented through vaccination of birds before an outbreak occur. In a situation where the disease
has already occurred within a flock, the flock should be culled and the pens should be
disinfected. Gumboro Infectious bursal disease vaccine (IBDV) should be administered to
chickens at their 2nd week and 4th week of age.

2. Fowl Pox
Fowl pox is a highly contagious disease that affects poultry birds at any age. It is caused by pox
virus transmitted by mostly mosquitoes and other blood sucking insects. The reason why fowl
pox is prevalent during the wet season is that mosquitoes, being the vector, breed well in this
season due to the abundance of stagnant water.
Signs of Fowl pox

 The disease affects the skin, respiratory tract and upper alimentary tract, leading to the
formation of wounds which later develop to thick scabs.
 Loss of appetite
 Weakness and emaciation of the body
 Difficulty in breathing and swallowing
 Stringy discharge from the nostrils
 Pox lesions on comb, wattles and legs
 Swollen eyelids
 Soiled feathers

Treatment, Prevention and Control

Fowl pox cannot be treated but the infected birds can be given antibiotics and water. The mash or
feed can be mixed with water to make swallowing quite comfortable.

 Healthy birds must be vaccinated around their 9th week of age to provide them lifetime
immunity.
 Isolate or cull infected birds from the flock. Also, Get rid of stagnant water or bush around
the farm to control the vectors like mosquitoes.

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3. Fowl Cholera
Fowl Cholera is a bacterial disease that affects birds of age 6 week old and above. The bacterium
responsible for this is Pasteurella multocida. It is highly contagious and mortality in acute cases
is high.

Signs of Fowl Cholera

In acute cases, birds that appear healthy die suddenly while in chronic cases the affected birds
show the following:

 Yellow, green or grey diarrhoea

 Loss of appetite
 Laboured breathing
 Drooped wings and tail feathers
 Ruffled feathers
 Swelling of the leg joints, sinuses, wattle and foot pad
 Twisting of the neck (torticolis)
 Discharge from the nostril or beak

Note: The above signs are also similar to those of fowl typhoid.

Treatment, Prevention and Control

Fowl cholera can be treated using sulfa drugs, tetracycline and erythromycin. Poultry birds can
vaccinated against Fowl cholera by administering a fowl cholera vaccine. Maintain proper
hygiene and sanitation. Practice a high level of biosecurity and prevent rodents, wild birds and
other animals.

4. Salmonellosis, Escherichia coli, Pullorum Disease (Bacillary White Diarrhoea)

These bacterial diseases affect birds of all ages. They are endemic in farms or pens with poor
sanitation. They affect the digestive system of the infected birds.

Signs of Salmonellosis, Escherichia coli, Pullorum

 Severe diarrhoea
 Loss of appetite
 Depression and emaciation
 Chicks suffer omphalitis
 White pasty diarrhoea in pullorum disease
 Huddle together and laboured breathing

Treatment, Prevention and Control

Salmonellosis, E. coli and Pullorum diseases can be treated by administering a broad-spectrum
antibiotic to the infected bed and all the flock. High-level farm/pen hygiene and sanitation must

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be maintained. Biosecurity measures should be in place. Avoid feeding birds with contaminated
feeds.

5. Aspergillosis
Aspergillosis is the general name given to diseases caused by Aspergillus. Due to the high
humidity during the cold season, feeds or litter dampens, thus creating a favourable environment
for fungus to grow and thrive. The birds also inhale aspergillus spores and these spores develop
into lesions filling the lungs causing respiratory problems or discomforts.

Birds under intensive management systems would experience high disease spread if the stocking
density is high and ventilation is inadequate or poor.

How to Manage Poultry Birds Optimally in the Cold or Rainy Season

To manage poultry such as chickens, turkeys, quails, duck and pheasants during cold or rainy
periods, poultry farmers have to do the following:

1. Add oil or fat to the diet of the birds or reduce the level of nutrients that are not required
by the birds to generate heat. This is necessary to avoid wastage and reduce feed
production costs, since birds consume more feed to generate heat.
2. Install electric bulbs or heater in the pen to serve as a secondary source of heat for the
birds. This would help the birds drink enough water and stay warm without getting the
reserved energy used up in the process.
3. Though very rare in an intensive system but rampant in a free-range system, birds drink
from the stagnant water around, thus pick up eggs of parasitic organisms such as intestinal
worms. That is why it is important to deworm poultry birds bi-monthly with effective
dewormers such as piperazine. A broad-spectrum antibiotic like oxytetracycline should be
administered to the birds every month.
4. Construct a generous roof overhang over the entrance and sides of pens to prevent
rainwater from getting into the pen whenever it rains. Construct a foot dip at the entrances
of the pens and a strong disinfectant solution should be in the foot dip always.
5. Vaccinate birds at the right time

NOTE 14:
Deep Litter Method for Chicken Coops: The Complete
Guide

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Imagine this – you only clean the chicken coop once, maybe twice, a year.

“No,” you might be thinking, “That can’t be safe, or sanitary, or a good idea in any way!”

With the deep litter method of bedding chickens, that concept is not only a reality, but it’s
beneficial.

You read that right – you can improve the health of your chickens while only having to clean the
coop on an annual or semi-annual basis.

So what is the deep litter method for chickens, and more importantly, can it work for you? In
this guide, we will tell you everything you need to know.

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What is the Deep Litter Method for Chickens?

The deep litter method for chickens involves allowing chicken waste and bedding material to
decompose on the floor of the chicken coop instead of being scraped out and replaced on a
weekly basis.

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When you use the deep litter method, you will use carbon-based bedding like pine shavings,
paper, or straw. This material will absorb the nitrogen from the chicken droppings, and the two
will work together to create nutrient-rich, odor-free humus that can then be used in your
garden. In fact, it will be just as beneficial as compost!

There are plenty of benefits to using the deep litter method for chickens. Not only can it be a
serious time-saver, but it can be a healthy waste management system when done correctly.

Is It the Same as Composting?

The deep litter method for chickens is often viewed in the same light as composting. Although
they are very similar, there are a couple of differences.

In general, though, they operate under the same principles. Composting moves through three
distinct phases. The first is a moderate-temperature phase, which lasts a few days or several
months, depending on the conditions, before it then moves into cooling and maturation
phases.

These phases are influenced and triggered by various microorganisms, including bacteria and
fungi, along with macroorganisms like beetles and flies. For organic matter to be effectively
turned into usable compost, it must be fed, watered, and oxygenated properly.

If you are managing a typical compost pile, you will do this yourself, allowing rain to water the
compost and turning your compost with a pitchfork every so often. In a deep litter system, the
chickens do the turning for you.

What Are the Requirements for a Deep Litter System?

For a deep litter method for chickens to be successful, you are going to need to incorporate a
few different factors.

First, you will need a litter material that is carbon-based and ample in quantity. This can be
grass clippings, leaves, pine shavings, shredded paper, or another bedding type of choice. You
won’t want to use something like sand for the deep litter system, although this works well in
other bedding set-ups.

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You will also need chicken droppings. If you have chickens, that shouldn’t be a problem! As you
likely know, chicken waste is rich in nitrogen and is the perfect complement to your carbon-
based bedding source.

You will also need to properly aerate the system. Your chickens will do most of this for you,
turning it as they go about their daily business, looking for bugs and microorganisms. However,
on occasion, you may need to turn sections of the litter that have been overlooked by your
birds.

For a deep litter system to be effective, it needs the utmost attention of your birds. If your
chickens stay outside most of the day and only return to the coop at night, you may find that
your litter does not get turned as often as is ideal. Therefore, you may want to consider deep
litter only if your flock is indoors much of the time (such as during the winter).

Your coop also needs to be well-ventilated. If you can, invest some time in making sure your
coop has open eaves and good cross-ventilation. There should be no heavy drafts, though,
especially in this space above the roosts. Ventilation is important because it will give the built-
up moisture and ammonia a place to escape.

When it comes to moisture, this factor cannot be overlooked. However, too much moisture is
just as bad as too little. Wet bedding can make your chickens sick. Since chicken droppings are
more than 80% water, you won’t need to add any extra moisture to your litter – the chickens
will take care of that for you.

However, you will need to keep an eye out for leaks and spills so that the bedding doesn’t
become overly sodden.

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There are some easy tips you can follow to make sure your chickens thrive in a deep litter
system.

Start in the Spring

Even if you only plan on housing your chickens in a deep litter system during the winter, winter
is not the ideal time to start building up the litter. As with a compost pile, litter requires a lot of
heat to start decomposing. Therefore, it should be entering its warmest phase of
decomposition in the fall. This will help add additional heat to your coop during the times it is
most needed.

Begin with Dry Bedding

Begin your deep litter system with at least six inches of a dry bedding type, like pine shavings.
You will want to avoid materials with a higher moisture content, like grass or straw.

These materials also tend to be too large to break down quickly. Pine shavings, on the other
hand, are quite fine in texture and so will break down fast. These will help jumpstart the
process of decomposition.

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You should avoid using hay or straw for the initial litter. They can both harbor mold, which not
only will slow down your decomposition but can also be damaging to the lungs of your
chickens. They also aren’t as absorbent as some of the other materials. Instead, let the wood
shavings work together with the manure to build a healthy population of microorganisms (and
heat) before you add alternative bedding material.

Manage Your Flock Size

Try not to overcrowd your coop. This is a good rule of thumb regardless of what bedding style
you use, but it’s especially important for deep litter.

If you have too many chickens, you’re going to have too much poop (and that’s never a good
thing). If you have too much poop in a deep litter system, your ratios of carbon to nitrogen are
going to be imbalanced and the deep litter method will fail.

Remember to maintain a ratio of four square feet per bird inside the coop – more if you can
afford it!

Keep it Deep

It can be tempting to keep scraping away at the top layer of your deep litter system, but try
your best to avoid this. Keep the litter at least four to six inches deep. As the pile decomposes,
add more litter. You can also add litter whenever things start to get stinky or unappealing.

Because of this height and build-up, you may need to adjust the doorway or other entrances to
your coop. Sometimes, doors won’t shut properly once the litter starts to accumulate.

Once the litter reaches a foot or so in height, it’s time to start removing it, bit by bit. Take a few
inches off the top until you’re back to the four- to six-inch height. This will make the pile more
manageable for your chickens and the microbes. Go ahead and use the litter in your garden!

When it’s time for some spring cleaning at the end of winter, don’t feel like you have to take
everything out. Actually, you should avoid doing this. Leave a few inches on the bottom of the
coop floor. It will help jumpstart the next batch as all of the microbes will already be in place.
Remember to Aerate and Monitor for Moisture

While your chickens will do most of the turning for you, inspect your coop floor on a regular
basis to make sure the entire litter system is aerated. You will want to make sure your chickens
haven’t missed any spots.

If any sections of the litter begin to look white or ashen, they are oxygen-deprived. Make sure
you break these up and turn them as soon as possible.

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You will also need to keep a close eye on the moisture content of your bedding. It should be
equally moist and consistent without any lumps or super sodden spots mixed in. if you pick up
the litter and squeeze it, it should not release any water. It should hold its shape and then
crumble. Turning your litter can help distribute moisture evenly around the coop.

Avoid Diatomaceous Earth

Don’t use diatomaceous earth in a deep litter system, even if you’re trying to control for
parasites like mites and lice. You can use it outdoors in a dust bath or run instead.

The reason for this is that diatomaceous earth is naturally drying. It will dry out the litter in your
coop and can kill off the beneficial microorganisms you are trying so hard to promote. It also
has insecticidal properties.

Keep it Stink-Free

Prevent ammonia smells from building up inside the coop. This is a sure sign that your deep
litter method is failing. Not only can it damage the lungs and eyes of your chickens, but it can
also make them more vulnerable to disease. Even their laying can shut off.

To prevent ammonia odors, make sure you have good ventilation and adequate moisture levels.
Prevent the bedding from staying wet, as this will not only promote ammonia build-up but can
also harbor mold, bacteria, coccidiosis, and even lead to bumblefoot.

Quit Cleaning…Kind Of

Stop being a neat freak! You don’t need to remove deep litter on a regular basis. Instead, you
should remove litter only when it is fully composted and has reached a foot or more in height. If
you remove litter too soon, it will never have the opportunity to get to the high heat
composting phase.

Watch Out For Disease

If you have any outbreak of disease in your flock – of any kind, be it parasites or a bacterial or
viral illness – make sure you remove all of the deep litter. It’s time to clean it out, sanitize your
coop, and start all over. Yes, this can be frustrating – however, it’s essential to prevent disease
from spreading among your flock.

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Pros and Cons of the Deep Litter Method

Here are a few benefits and drawbacks of a deep litter system:

Benefits

There are plenty of advantages to using a deep litter system. Not only is it maintenance -free
(well, mostly maintenance free) but it also works year-round.

It works well in wet climates as long as you monitor moisture levels. It also works well in more
arid conditions. It is ideal in the winter, when it releases heat into the coop and helps make it a
more welcoming environment for your chickens. As the litter breaks down, it naturally releases
heat and keeps the birds warm.

Because deep litter introduces beneficial microbes to the coop, it helps keep harmful microbes
at bay. There are also studies that suggest that chickens raised on deep litter have more access
to vitamin B-12, helping them grow larger and healthier than those raised on other types of
bedding. It also has anticoccidial properties.

Deep litter can reduce odor and nutrient loading, too. After all, depositing too much nitrogen
(found, of course, in chicken droppings) in one area can be bad for the land. This reduces
manure run-off and is a safer way to manage chicken manure, especially if you have lots of
chickens.

You’ll only need to clean the coop once or twice per year. It can be used in any size coop with
any size flock. It gives them something to do when they are locked up inside the coop. No more
cabin fever, and a happy flock of chickens – sounds like a win-win.

The deep litter method for chickens can also be more economical for you. Since you aren’t
removing and replacing all of the bedding each week, you can add smaller amounts of new
litter to the coop – this means less expense when it comes to buying shavings or straw.

Oh – and let’s not forget all the free compost you’ll get for your garden!

Drawbacks

Although a deep litter bedding system is advantageous in many ways, there are a few
disadvantages to this method that you need to be aware of, too.

For starters, deep litter does not work as well for a small flock of mixed-age birds. Some of your
younger birds might have a harder time scratching around in the litter and can easily become
stuck in all the bedding.

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A small flock may also not be able to handle the workload of turning a deep litter bedding on a
regular basis, meaning the bedding will pile up and become stinky before it ever starts to break
down to a useful point.

Also, deep litter systems should only be built on dirt floors. Wood floors can absorb moisture
and ammonia, hastening the time it takes for them to rot. Similarly, concrete does not allow for
proper drainage, nor does it encourage the growth of microbes.

And if you do have a dirt floor, you’ll have several other concerns to worry about despite the
fact that deep litter works well. It will be easier for predators to get inside and it may be more
difficult for you to shut your doors once bedding begins to pack together.

Deep litter should only be used with chickens and not with other types of poultry, in particular,
ducks. Ducks like to splash around a lot in the water, which can cause the litter to become too
wet and harbor mold and fungus.

Finally, a deep litter system needs to stay damp beneath the top layer. As a result, there can be
lots of moisture in the air. This means you’ll need a well-ventilated coop to prevent issues like
frostbite and respiratory disease.

Does a Deep Litter System of Bedding Encourage Parasites?

There are some people who argue that the deep litter method of bedding can encourage
parasites.

There is some truth to this. If deep litter is not done correctly, it can harbor Capillaria worms,
bacteria, and of course, ammonia gases. These can all be harmful to a chicken’s health.

That being said, when managed properly, the deep litter system can actually decrease parasite
and pest loads. The beneficial microbes harbored in the deepest layers of the bedding system
often eat mosquito and fly larvae before they ever develop.

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Why the Deep Litter Method is Often the Way to Go

Despite all of the potential struggles associated with a deep litter method of bedding, there are
plenty of advantages to bedding your chickens in this fashion, too. Not only will your birds have
access to all kinds of beneficial microbes, but you’ll be able to significantly reduce your
workload when it comes to keeping the coop clean, too.

Many of the struggles you might encounter with the deep litter method can be easily mitigated
with a bit of good management. Consider giving it a try with your chickens this year for less
work, less stress, and most importantly – free compost!
broiler chickens
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