INDEX

S.N TOPIC PAGE NO. REMARK/SIGN

O
1 To find epi,ppi in a small fabric sample
without using pick glass
2 To find crimp of yarn in fabric sample
without using any technical instrument
3 To determine yarn count from a small
swatch
4 To analyse fabric sample no.1
5 To analyse fabric sample no.2
6 To analyse fabric sample no.3
7 To analyse fabric sample no.4
8 To analyse fabric sample no.5
9 To analyse fabric sample no.6
10 To analyse fabric sample no.7
11 To analyse fabric sample no.8
 PRACTICAL NO.1
Object - To determine epi, ppi of a given fabric sample without using pickglass.

Apparatus – Long needle, tweezers, scale , pencil/ marker

Theory- In woven fabric EPI and PPI is measured to the number of yarn on a fabric. Normally,
EPI is the number of wrap threads per inch of fabric & PPI is the number of weft threads of per
inch of fabric.

EPI: EPI means “Ends Per Inch” is the popular word in the garments & textile industry. Number
of yarn in warp direction is measured by EPI. Normally, ends per Inch are the number of wrap
threads. It is the represent vertical thread of the fabric. It is called the wrap yarn.

PPI: PPI means “Picks Per Inch” is also the most popular word in the textile & garments
industry. Number of Weft yarn in fabric is measured by PPI. Picks per inch is the number of weft
threads of the fabric. It is represent the horizontal threads. It is the called weft yarn.

Procedure-
Step 1: Collect fabric swatch
Collect fabric swatch for which you are going to find EPI and PPI. Lay fabric sample on a flat
table and remove all creases by hand press. Mark arrows for warp and weft direction if you
know.
Step 2: Make a square of one sq.inch on the sample
Mark a square of 1 X 1 inch on the fabric using pen or pencil. Try to marks lines parallel to warp
and weft direction. Cut 5 squares from a different place of the sample to calculate average EPI
and PPI.

Step 3: Count number of ends and Picks inside those squares.

In case yarns are thicker and visible with open eyes count numbers of Ends and picks using a
needle or a pin. In case, yarns in the fabrics are not visible and not possible to count with open
eyes, pull out warp and weft yarns one by one from the cut squares. Count numbers of yarns
you get form one inch length and width of the fabric.

Using same method, find EPI and PPI from all 5 samples and calculate average EPI and PPI.

Example:

I have shown you an example of loosely woven fabric in the right side image. On that fabric
sample, a 1” X 1” square is made. The vertical laid yarns are ends (warp) and horizontal yarns
are picks (wefts). Here you can counts ends and picks without any pick glass as the sample
fabric is loosely woven. In one inch length there is 9 ends and 8 picks.

So EPI and PPI of this sample is 9 and 8 respectively.

 PRACTICAL NO. 2
Object -To determine crimp of yarn from a small fabric sample.

Theory - When warp and weft yarns interlace in fabric they follow a wavy or corrugated path.
Crimp percentage is a measure of this waviness in yarns.

Percentage crimp is defined as the mean difference between the straightened thread length
and the distance between the ends of the thread while in the cloth, expressed as a percentage.
From the definition of crimp two values must be known, the cloth length from which the yarns
is removed and the straightened length of the thread. In order to straighten the thread, tension
must be applied, just sufficient to remove all the kinks without stretching the yarn.

Procedure :

Step 1 : Take a small fabric sample of 20 x20 cm.

Step 2: Straighten the fabric properly to remove all wrinkles or crease.

Step 3 : mark warp and weft on the fabric surface

Step 4 : Make a mark with the help of scale measurinf 10 or 20 cm or any desired length in both
warp and weft direction.

Step 4 : Now with the help of a needle take the marked warp and weft thread out of the fabric.

Step 5 : With the hands slightly straighten the wary or weft yarn that you have removed from
the fabric.

Step 6 : Now again measure the straightened length of yarn.

Step 7 ; Now we can measure the crimp % with the below formula:

1–p
c = ———- x 100
p

Where, c = crimp, l = uncrimped length and p = crimped length.

Step 8 : Calculate crimp for 5 warp yarn and 5 weft yarn and take average.

Data:

Warp Yarn Weft yarn

S/n
Crimped Crimp Crimped Crimp
Uncrimped Uncrimped
length percentage Mean length percentage Mean
length (l) length (l)
(p) (c) (p) (c)

1 10″ 10.7″ 7% 6.7% 10″ 11.1″ 11% 10.5%

2 10.9″ 9% 11″ 10%

3 10.8″ 8% 11.2″ 12%

4 10.4″ 4% 11.1″ 11%

5 10.6″ 6% 10.9″ 9%
Results:

1. Average warp crimp percentage 6.7% and

2. Average weft crimp percentage 10.5%.

Remark:

We found that crimp% for warp is less than weft. It is because the warp yarns are kept in
tension during weaving. Besides they are stronger and better yarn than weft. So they do not
extend more. On the other hand weft yarns are kept in low tension and low in quality. So they
can extend more. As a result their crimp percentage is more. We should notice that variation in
crimp can give rise to faults in fabrics, e.g. reduction in strength, bright picks and diamond
barring in rayons, strips in yarn dyed cloths and so on. So we should control it which is also
necessary for design fabric to give required extensibility. Since crimp is related to length, it
affects the amount of cloth as well as cost of production.
 PRACTICAL NO 3

Object : To determine yarn count from a short length of yarn or to determine yarn count from a
fabric swatch.

Theory:

The yarn count determination job gets much difficult when you have very short length of yarn.
You can't make a lea or skein of the yarn of definite length of yarn. If you have very short length
of yarn say 4 - 5 metres, the accurate length measurement of this this yarn gets little difficult.

If you have a fabric swatch and don't have continuous yarn length then you face difficulties
during yarn count determination.

The beesley balance gets used to find the yarn count of fabric swatch. This balance doesn't give
accurate results. You can't determine the count of short yarn length. Now question arises how to
determine the count of yarn of fabric swatch or short length of yarn available.

Procedure:

The simplest and effective method of determination of yarn which may be applied in both cases
for the yarn count determination process gets completed in below steps:

Step 1 : Cutting marks by scissor:

The fabric is cut at two places as shown in the fugure. The distance between both the cut should
be as large as possible. The distance should also be measurable by measuring scale.
Step 2 : Taking out threads from the swatch:

A definite number of threads are taken out from the swatch as shown in the figure. The number of threads are
counted precisely. Any mistake can affect your results.

Step 3 : Measuring of thread's length:

When you can count the threads, one thread is taken out from thread's bunch. Now we makes this single
thread straight with the help of finger. We should alway be careful during straightening of thread. There should
not be any stretch in the thread during straightening.
Now we should measure this thread with the help of measuring scale. Please don't forget to add this single
thread in the thread's bunch. Please see the below figure.

Step 4 : Weighing of thread's bunch:

Now put this thread's bunch on the pan of electronic weighing scale and record the weight of threads. Don't
forget to see the zero reading of weighing scale before weight measuring. If there is an error, do re - zero of the
scale reading and then measure the bunch weight. Please see above figure..
Observation and calculation :
 Practical No 4

Objective- To determine GSM of fabric

Theory : GSM stands for grams per square meter. Fabric GSM means the weight of one square meter of
fabric in grams. GSM is also written as gm/m2. You can calculate GSM for woven and knitted fabric
using one of the following methods.

Calculating Fabric GSM by means of instruments:

Apparatus required

1. Round GSM cutter and GSM Pad

2. Weighing Balance.

Method:
 Cut 5 swatches from the different places of the fabric.
 Weight all test swatches accurately and calculate the average weight of swatches.
 Multiply the average weight of swatches by 100 to calculate the GSM of the sample
fabric. (Normally, the area of round GSM cutter is 1/100 square meters.)

Fabric GSM calculation by using a Formula:

To calculate fabric GSM using this formula, we take a fabric swatch of square shape. For example,
50 cm x 50 cm fabric. Take the weight of this fabric swatch, calculate the area in a square
centimeter.

Practical No 5

Objective: To determine reed count

Theory : REED COUNT SELECTION IN WEAVING:

Before selecting the reed count for a given fabric swatch, it is necessary to know about the role
of the reed in weaving loom.

• The reed of a loom performs beating motion in the loom.

• The reed also decides the ends per inch in the fabric to be woven.

• It also helps to maintain a regular gap between two adjacent ends.

“The number of dents per two inches is called reed count in the stock port system”. This
system is extensively used in the weaving industry.

Method of reed selection in weaving.

Before selecting the count of reed to be used to weave a given fabric, the following fabric
parameters are analysed precisely:

1 - Dent marks and denting order appearing in the fabric:

A gap between ends left by the dent wire of the reed in the fabric during weaving is called a dent
mark. It looks clearly with the help of counting glass in the grey fabric. It gets a little difficult to
see the dent mark in the fabric after processing. An expert technician can see these dent marks
in grey and processed fabric both with the help of counting glass. These dent marks decide the
denting order of warp ends in the reed.

2.Weft regain:

This very important parameter of the fabric plays a decisive role in making the selection of
accurate reed count in weaving. Technicians should be very careful during weft regain analysis.
“The weft regain is the ratio of the difference between straighten weft length and swatch length
to swatch length expressed in the term of percentage”.
Fabric width :

the distance between both selvedges of the fabric is called fabric width.

EPI of the fabric: the warp ends per inch is known as EPI.

Now suppose that required fabric parameters are as follows:

EPI = 100

Fabric width = 80 inches

Weft regain = 4.2 ℅

Denting order= 2 ends per dent.

Please see below the reed count calculation sheet:

PRACTICAL No 6
Aim: To analyse a given fabric sample

Apparatus: Fabric sample, Pick glass, Needle, balance, scale etc

Theory:

Calculation:

1 .Fabric GSM:

2. Warp & Weft Count:

3. Crimp:
Observation:

Fabric Specification:

3. Fabric Quality:
 Warp:
 Weft:
4. Weave Pattern:
 Warp:
 Weft:
5. Count:
 Warp:
 Weft:
6. Twist
 Warp:
 Weft:

7. Ends per Inch:

8. Picks per Inch:

9. Crimp Percentage:
 Warp:
 Weft:

10. Reed count:

11. GSM:

12. FABRIC SAMPLE:

13. Weave Repeat (Design,draft, pegplan):