Graduate Zig-Zag & Stretch Sewing Machine by SINGER Congratulations . . . The new Graduate* Zig-Zag & Stretch Sewing Machine (Model 6705) you are about to use will take you into a wonderful new world of sewing. The Model 6705 Flip & Sew* sewing machine, features a hinged bed for free arm sewing, and you will also enjo) + the simplicity of dial controls. Now you can simply dial a stitch length, a stitch width, pressure and tension settings; even buttonhole stitching + built-in stitch patterns, which let you produce a straight stitch and a variety of zig-zag patterns by simply turning a dial, plus Flexi-Stitch* patterns for stitching knit and stretch fabrics and producing intricate stitch designs + one-way needle clamp makes it impossible to insert needle backwards ‘* stitch contro! dial that lets you switch from regular to stretch stitching + guidelines on both sides of the needle plate, w! straight ich help you keep seams * convenient power and light switch that gives you a choice of two speeds +» easy needle plate changing —needle plate secured by magnets is easy to lift out for cleaning * three-position presser foot lifter that lets you place bulky fabric or many fabric layers under the presser foot * built-in sewing light that illuminates the sewing area Your SINGER sewing machine is the key to your sewing success when used properly. To achieve professional results, SINGER suggests you sit down at your machine and go through this book step by step before you begin to sew. You will discover all the many advantages of sewing with your Graduate sew- ing machine. Enjoy sewing! ‘SINGER’ Service is always close at hand. If your machine should need servic- ing, call your local SINGER Sewing Center to be sure of warranted SINGER Parts and Service. You will find the address in the telephone directory under SINGER COMPANY. Copyright® 1978 THE SINGER COMPANY All Righls Reserved Thoughout the WorldCONTENTS 1. Getting to Know Your Machine Principal Parts and What They Do Accessories 2. Getting Ready to Sew Preliminary Steps Choosing Needle and Thread Threading the Machine Winding the Bobbin e Threading the Bobbin Case e Threading the Needle ¢ Raising the Bobbin Thread 3. Straight Stitching Preparation Starting to Sew Adjusting for Your Fabric Sewing a Seam Pin Basting « Placing Fabric « Starting a Seam « Guiding and Supporting Fabric e Keeping Seams Straight Turning Square Corners e Curved Seams e Reinforcing End of Seam 4, Zig-Zag Stitching Zig-Zag Stitch Patterns Adjusting Dials Setting Patter Dial e Adjusting Stitch Placement « Adjusting Width of Design « Adjusting Needle-Thread Tension « Adjusting Stitch Length Satin Stitching 5. Buttons and Buttonholes Buttons Buttonholes. Round-End Buttonholes: Bar-Tack Buttonholes 6. Sewing the Professional Way Construction Details Zippers ¢ Corded Seams e Blindstitch Hems e Seams in Fabrics That Ravel ‘Sewing Knit and Stretch Fabric Stretch Stitch Chart # Guiding and Supporting Fabric e Finishes for Hems and Facings ‘* Plain Stretch Seams e Lingerie Seams « Overedged Seams e Mock Overedging Hints on Sewing Special Fabric Leather-Look Vinyl e Ciré # Deep-Pile Fabrics e Velvet and Velveteen Decorative Touches Border Designs Applique Keeping Up Appearances ‘Mending a Tear e Blanket Binding e Repairing Seams e Repairing Stretch Garments Daming 7. Free-Arm Sewing 8. Caring for your Machine Cleaning the Machine Removing Covers, Bobbin Case, and Bulb Performance Checklist 9. Sewing Aids Index 2300 aun 16 16 17 19 42 44 45 48 53 53 84 57. 58 60principal parts and what they do 1. Stitch Pattern | can be set to produce a smooth straight stitch or a practical (and decorative) zig-zag stitch, 2. Tension Dial lets you select just the right, tension for your stitch, thread, and fabric. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings. 3. Tension Discs, controlled by the tension dial, regulate the amount of tension on your needle thread. 4, Bobbin Winder Tension Discs regulate thread tension for bobbin winding, 5. Self-threading Take-up Lever controls flow of needle thread. 6. Pressure regulates presser-foot pressure on fabric. It has an all-purpose sewing setting plus settings for extra- light and extra-heavy pressure and for darning. 7. Face Plate unlocks and swings open for access to pressure dial. 8. Thread Cutter is built into presser bar for safety and convenience. 9. Presser Foot holds fabric against feed . Finger Guard is a safety feature to help prevent fingers from accidentally getting in path of needle. WwW. 12. Feed moves fabric under the presser foot. Needle Plate, secured by magnets, lifts out for removal. Guidelines on right and left sides of plate help you keep seams straight. 13. Spool Pins hold spools of various sizes for threading machine and winding bobbin. 14. Bobbin Winder Stop and Spindle let you fill bobbin quickly and easily. Bobbin Winder Thread Post guides the thread when winding the bobbin. 15. 16. Hand Wheel controls the movement of the take-up lever and the needle. Always turn it toward you. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. Power and Light Switch turns on machine and sewing light simuitaneously. FAST and SLOW speed range settings let you choose the best sewing speed for your work. Needle Position Dial places needle in either L (left), (center) or R (right) stitching position Stitch Width Dial controts the width of zig-zag stitching and positions the nee- dle for straight stitching. Stitch Control Dial allows for a variety of stitch lengths; also has a special stretch setting & for straight or zig-zag stretch stitching. Reverse-Stitch Lever instantly reverses stitching direction at the touch of your finger. Buttonhole Dial controls steps in sewing round-end buttonholes. Dial must be in OFF position when not in use. Built-in Sewing Light illuminates sewing area. Pull-down bracket makes it easy to replace bulb. Hinged Plate converts machine for free arm sewing. Needle Clamp is designed to eliminate the possibility of inserting needle back- wards. Slide Plate, opens easily, lets you see bobbin. Seam guidelines (extended from needle plate) have crosslines to help you turn square corners. Presser-Foot Lifter, at back of machine, allows you to raise and lower presser foot. Extra-high lift position permits easy placement of bulky fabrics. Bobbin shows thread supply, is easily removed for winding, Speed Controller is designed for your convenience and safety, controls the speed of your machine. Hand Wheel Knob engages hand wheel to sewing mechanism. Loosen knob for bobbin winding.Bobbin Regular Ball-Point (No. 172222) Needle Needle (Style 2020) (Style 2045) Needle Bar Needle-Clamp Screw Changing the Needie Tension Screwdriver accessories The following accessories come with your sewing machine. 1. BOBBINS No. 172222 * One drop-in steel bobbin in your machine. * Extra drop-in steel bobbins with your ac- cessories. 2. NEEDLES IMPORTANT: Your SINGER* sewing machine has been designed to obtain best results with SINGER* needles. You should follow the recommendations in this instruc- tion book and on the needle package for cor- rect style and size of needle for different types and weights of fabric. In place in your machine — # Style 2020 (15x1) With your accessories — * Style 2020 (15x1) needles, for all-purpose sewing, * Style 2045 ball-point Yellow Band* needles, for sewing synthetic knits and stretch fabrics. Changing the Needle The needle clamp has been designed so that the needle can only be inserted with the flat side of the shank toward the back. 1. Raise needle bar to its highest position, loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove needle. 2. Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat side of the needle to the back, and push it up as far as it will go. 3. Tighten needle-clamp screw. 3. TENSION SCREWDRIVER No. 161295 Designed to fit the bobbin case tension screw, this screwdriver makes adjustment of bobbin- thread tension quick and easy. (For instruc- tions on bobbin-thread tension adjustment, see page 18.4, GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT No. 172904 AND NEEDLE PLATE No. 383133 The general purpose foot and the general pur- pose needle plate are in place on your machine. Ideal for all utility sewing, these fit- tings can be used for either straight or zig-zag stitching. Always use them together when alternating between straight and zig-zag stitching, 5. STRAIGHT STITCH FOOT No. 181545 AND NEEDLE PLATE No. 381316 The straight stitch foot and the straight stitch needle plate are used when your fabric or sewing procedure requires close control These accessories, recommended for all straight-stitch sewing, are especially helpful for edge stitching and collar pointing, or for stitching delicate or spongy fabrics. 6. ZIPPER FOOT No. 161166 The zipper foot is used for inserting zippers and stitching corded seams. 7. OVEREDGE FOOT No. 163374 Overedge foot used with overedge stretch stitch for seams in stretch fabrics. 8. BUTTONHOLE FOOT No. 381255 The buttonhole foot is used to make round- end buttonholes. 9. SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT No. 163483 The special purpose foot is used for all kinds of decorative stitching 10. FEED COVER PLATE No. 171138 The feed cover plate replaces the needle plate when fabric feeding is not desired. Use it for button sewing (page 27) and free-motion darning (page 47). Buttonhole Foot Special Purpose Foot Feed Cover PlatLocking and Unlocking Dial Controts 11. SEAM AND BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE No. 161172 The seam guide will help you to stitch seams of perfectly uniform width. It is especially useful for curved seams or topstitching, when absolute accuracy is required. Also, because it allows you to guide stitches at any distance between 1/8 inch (8mm) and 1-1/4 inches (3.2cm) from fabric edge, it is useful for very narrow or unusually wide seams Attaching the Seam Guide Place screw in hole to the right of the slide Plate; line up straight edge of guide with the needle plate guideline for desired seam width, and tighten screw. 12, LOCKING KEY (Large, No. 171387) The larger of the two locking keys furnished with your accessories is used to unlock the face plate to gain access to the pressure regulating dial and for cleaning and oiling behind the face plate. It is also used to remove the pins that lock the dial controls for straight stitching in center needle position. To unlock face plate, insert key into locking pin, as illustrated, and unscrew locking pin all the way by turning key counterclockwise. Remove pin and then open face plate. To lock face plate, insert pin through hole in face plate, and close face plate while guiding end of pin into mounting hole in machine cast- ing. Insert key in locking pin and turn key clockwise until pin is firmly secured. To unlock dial controls, insert key into lock- ing pin and turn key counterclockwise to remove pin. To lock the machine in straight stitch posi- tion, set dials at A, 4 and 4 . Insert pins from top through dials and turn key clockwise.13, LOCKING KEY (Small, No. 381271) The smaller of the two locking keys furnished with your accessories is used to unlock the hinged plate, to convert machine from flat-bed to free-arm sewing. To unlock plate, insert key into hole in plate and turn key coun- terclockwise. To lock plate in flat-bed posi- tion, turn key clockwise. Refer to page 48 for instructions on converting machine to free- arm sewing. CHANGING NEEDLE PLATES (NOTE: Remove bobbin if it contains thread in order to prevent thread being caught when needle plate is replaced.) 1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot. 2. Open slide plate. Remove needle plate by Placing thumb under plate and lifting it up and out. 3. Position new plate over the two pins and release. (Needle plate is drawn into posi- tion by magnets.) 4, Close slide plate. CHANGING PRESSER FEET 1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot. 2. Loosen presser foot screw and remove the foot 3. Hook new foot around the presser bar and tighten presser foot screw. Presser Foot J Screw ‘Changing Presser FootUSING THE FINGER GUARD Positioning the Guard Before raising or lowering the guard, turn off the power and light switch. This will avoid the possibility of accidentally starting the machine while the needle is unguarded. Raising the Guard To thread and replace the needle and change the presser foot: © Position the needle above the needle plate by turning the hand wheel toward you. ¢ Swing the guard out to the left and raise it to the position shown. Lowering the Guard For sewing and bobbin winding: * Position the needle above the needle plate by turning the hand wheel toward you. ‘© Swing the guard down and position it as far to the right as it will go. Using the Guard The finger guard can be used with all of the accessories supplied with your machine and many of the Special Accessories available at your local Singer Sewing Center. The standard sewing procedures outlined in this instruction manual should be used, except as noted below. SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS Darning with an Embroidery Hoop When using the feed cover needle plate for darning with an embroidery hoop, as explained on page 47, swing the finger guard out of the way. For hoop darning with the finger guard, use the general purpose or straight stitch needle plate. Follow the same sewing procedure with all plates. Using the Seam Guide To avoid the possibility of interference be- tween the finger guard and the seam guide, lower the finger guard and the presser foot before positioning and securing the seam guide to the machine. To Raise the Guard To Lower the Guard2. GETTING READY TO SEW preliminary steps 1, CONNECTING MACHINE Before plugging in your machine, be sure that the voltage and number of cycles indicated at the right end of the machine conform to your electrical power supply. To connect machine, insert the power-line plug into your electrical outlet. 2. OPERATING MACHINE AND CONTROLLER To turn on both the machine and sewing light and set speed range, slide the power and light switch to the selected range. + The FAST setting allows for full speed ca- pacity of the machine. It is best for long, straight seams, easy-to-handle fabrics, and general sewing where a variety of speeds is needed. + The SLOW setting allows for maximum con- trol at lower sewing speeds. Use this setting for special jobs such as button sewing, buttonhole making, and where construction details require close control. CAUTION: We recommend that you turn off the power and light switch before changing needles, presser feet or needle plates and when leaving the machine unattended. This elimi- nates the possibility of starting the machine by accidentally pressing the speed controller. To run the machine, press the speed con- troller. The harder you press, the faster the machine will sew within the selected speed range. Power-Line Plug Electrical Connections FAST OFF sLow POWER & LIGHT Power and Light Switch Speed Controllerchoosing needle and thread The needle and thread you choose will depend _ selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing upon the fabric being stitched, The table be- _project. Be sure to use the same size and type low is a practical guide to needle and thread —_of thread in both needle and bobbin. FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE FABRIC WEIGHT AND TYPE THREAD NEEDLES. Ye TYPE: Size DELICATE —tulle, chiffon, fine lace, or Fine polyester, nylon, Style 2020 fs ganza, chiffon velvet or cotton thread (15x1) Cotton-wrapped LIGHTWEIGHT — batiste, organdy, voile, polyester (FINE) taffeta, crepe, chiffon velvet, plastic film, 100% polyester siyle2020 44 satin, surah, peau de soie, shantung, 50 mercerized cotton (5x1) brocade “A” nylon “Ae silk Cotton. d polyest MEDIUM WEIGHT —gingham, seersucker, — “°"“Togee'polyester madras, percale, piqué, linen. chintz, fale, so ieaea estes Style 2020 wy fine corduroy, velveteen, suitings, vinyl, (igx1) terry cloth, challis, twill 60 cotton “A” silk Cotton-wrapped polyester MEDIUM HEAVY — gabardine, tweed, sai Vopcc Baivecter cloth, duck, denim, coatings, drapery Looiant Style 2020 46 fabrics, vinyi, deeprpile fabrics, corduroy, ina SUM get) bonded fabric, roared ens Cotton-wrapped polyester HEAVY — overcoatings, upholstery fabrics, Heavy-duty Style 2020 a canvas mercerized cotton (15x1) 40 cotton Cotton-wrapped polyest KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH AND ELASTIC = ane eT ous double knits, bonded knits, spandex, ry- om Pat Siiez04s fon tieot, civ toot, jersey, panne velvet, yylon all Point stretch terry ‘50 mercerized cotton Yellow Band “AN silk Cotton-wrapped polyester LEATHER — suede, kidskin, calf, capeskin, 100% polyester aie aa 1” buckskin, cabretta, patent, cobra, lined 50 mercerized cotton Mee 14 leathers, simulated leathers “A nylon {8x2 16 ‘A silk Cotton-wrapped polyester VINYLS. (KNIT BACK) — suede, imitation 100% polyester style 2045 reptile, crinkle patent, patent, embossed 50 mercerized cotton Ball Point 14 and printed vinyls “AM nylon Yellow Band seal: WOVEN FABRICS (ALL WEIGHTS) — dec “D" silkt Style 2020 16 orative straight-stitch topstitching (Buttonhole twist) (15x1) 8 Light AND MEDIUM weirs woven — So¥eNwanped abet” syizonn ag decorative twin-needle stitching isa (twin) 50 mercerized cotton {Use with 50 marcarized cotton or "A" silk in bobbin 10threading the machine WINDING THE BOBBIN Preparation 1. Turn hand wheel toward you until nee- 2. Disengage hand wheel from sewing dle is at its highest position. mechanism by loosening the hand wheel knob with your right hand while holding the hand wheel with the left. 3. Open the slide plate. 4. Lift out the bobbin. W12 Winding Steps 1. Place thread spool on spool pin over the spool pin felt. Lead thread between tension discs, as shown, around thread post and through small hole in bobbin (from the inside out) 2. Place bobbin on spindle and engage winding mechanism by moving bobbin and spindle toward the right. 3. Hold thread end as shown and start the machine. Cut off thread end when winding is well under way. 4. When required amount of thread has been wound, move bobbin and spindle to the left to disengage winding mechanism (full bobbin will automat- ically stop winding), cut thread and remove bobbin from spindle. 5. Tighten hand wheel knob by turning it away from you with your right hand while holding the hand wheel with your left hand. Hold Thread End to Start WindingTHREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1. Hold bobbin so that the thread unwinds 2. Pull thread into notch in bobbin case, in direction shown, and put bobbin in draw it under the tension spring and bobbin case. into the slot. 3. Draw approximately four inches 4. Close slide plate, allowing the thread (10cm) of thread diagonally across the to enter the slot in the slide plate. bobbin. 13THREADING THE NEEDLE 1, Turn hand wheel toward you to raise nee- dle and take-up lever to highest position. Raise presser foot to release tension discs. ‘Swing finger guard out of the way to the left. See page 8. 2. Place spool of thread on spool pin over the spool pin felt. Lead thread through all num- bered points as shown, making sure to: Slip thread horizontally bet- ween tension discs from the top. . and lead thread over spring and under guide on left side. Allow spring to return to its normal up position and con- tinue threading the machine. 14 * Thread tension discs as illustrated. * Thread take-up lever from back to front, guiding thread down over top of lever and then up into eyelet. * Thread needle from front to back, drawing about four inches (10cm) of thread through eye of needle.RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the needle hole in the needle plate. 1. Hold needle thread lightly with the left hand and turn the hand wheel slowly toward you so that the needle enters needle plate. 2. Continue turning hand wheel and holding needle thread until needle rises and brings up bobbin thread in a loop. 3. Undo the loop with your fingers. 4. Place needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and draw both threads to back and left of needle. To regulate needle-thread and bobbin-thread tensions, see page 18. ...you are now ready to sew 153. STRAIGHT STITCHING Dials Set for Straight Stitching Minn Regular Straight Stitch Settings Stretch Stitch Setting Starting to Sew 16 * Pattern: Straight Stitch { * Needle Position: A ® Stitch Width: A. + Stitch Control: To suit fabric « Straight Stitch Needle Plate or General Purpose Needle Plate + Straight Stitch Foot or General Purpose Foot preparation Before you set the dials for straight stitching, turn the hand wheel toward you until the nee- dle is above the needle plate. SETTING THE MACHINE 1. Set pattern dial selector at 4 . Move needle position dial to A. . Set stitch width dial on & . Set stitch control for desired stitch length For regular straight stitching, turn dial to a numbered setting; for straight stretch stitching, turn dial to @ setting. CHOOSING ACCESSORIES Best results will be obtained if you use the straight stitch foot and needle plate. However, the general purpose foot and needle plate may also be used. Starting to sew *Place needle and bobbin threads under presser foot and draw to back of machine. RON * Position the needle in the fabric where desired for stitching start. *Lower the presser foot and start the machine, To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics adjust stitch length, pressure and thread ten- sion as instructed on the following pages. For information on straight stretch stitching, turn to page 40.adjusting for your fabric SETTING STITCH LENGTH The stitch control dial regulates the length of both straight and zig-zag stitches. The num- bers 6 to 20 represent the number of straight stitches per inch and the numbers 1 to 4 represent stitch length in eters. Generally, shorter stitches are best for light- weight fabric, longer ones for heavy fabric. Curved seams, bias-cut seams, and scallops require short straight stitches for elasticity and smooth contours. The FINE area is used for adjustment of zig- zag satin stitching (page 26) The &setting is used for straight-stretch stitching and Flexi-Stitch patterns only. For in- formation on Flexi-Stitch patterns and straight-stretch stitching, see pages 23 and 40. + To set stitch control, turn dial until setting desired is under the red line. For reverse stitching, simply press reverse- stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Release lever for forward stitching, Note: Reverse-Stitching is not recommended when using a Flexi-Stitch pattern REGULATING PRESSURE See page 6 for instructions on how to unlock the face plate for access to pressure dial The pressure dial regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important because it means fabric feeds smoothly and evenly. The NORM (nor- mal) setting is an all-purpose setting that can be used for sewing a wide variety of fabrics of different weights and textures. Intermediate notched settings, above and below NORM, are also provided. When you need extra con- trol to sew very heavy fabric, use the MAX (maximum) setting Lower the presser foot before setting pressure. + To increase pressure, turn dial from NORM toward MAX. + To decrease pressure, turn dial from NORM toward DARN. * For darning, set dial on DARN. Red Line Setting for Stretch Stitching Stitch Control Dial Increase Decrease Darning 1718 Too Loose Needie-Thread Tension Correct \Ooys 22 ee Le 7 SC Decrease Bobbin-Thread Tension REGULATING THREAD TENSION Correct tension is important because too much or too little will weaken your seams or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use, and ex- amine it. A perfect stitch will have the needle and bobbin threads locked between the two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom and no puckers. Needle-Thread Tension The tension dial regulates the degree of ten- sion on your needle thread, Set it according to the type of thread and fabric you use. The numbers on the dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings, If the stitches in your test sample look loose, increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric puckers, decrease tension. + To increase tension, turn dial to higher num- ber. + To decrease tension, turn dial to lower num- ber. Bobbin-Thread Tension Bobbin-thread tension is controlled by a screw located on the bobbin case. You will seldom need to adjust bobbin-thread tension since it is usually possible to obtain the correct bal- ance by adjusting needle-thread tension alone. On those rare occasions when it becomes necessary to adjust the bobbin-thread ten- sion, use the small tension screwdriver fur- nished with your accessories. A very slight turn on the screw nearest the thread slot on the bobbin case will produce a noticeable change in bobbin-thread tension. + To increase tension, turn screw clockwise. * To decrease tension, turn screw counter- clockwise.sewing a seam PIN BASTING Pin basting is a time saver and can be used in place of hand basting when you are straight stitching seams in easy-to-handle fabric. Use fine pins and place them so that: * They are at right angles to the presser foot and just nip into the fabric at the stitching line. * They do not extend under both sides of the presser foot. Never place pins on the under- side of the fabric in contact with the feed. Withdraw pins from fabric as you stitch. Sew- ing over pins is not recommended. PLACING FABRIC Most fabric can be placed under the presser foot by raising the presser-foot lifter to its nor- mal up position. When placing bulky fabrics, ‘such as coating, knit or terry cloth, or multiple fabric layers, you ind it convenient to raise the presser-foot lifter to the high-rise Position. Hold lifter in position (since it does Rot lock) while placing fabric under the presser foot. Make sure the lifter is all the way down before starting to sew. Pin Placement When. ‘Seam Guide Is Used Pins Nip into Fabric at the Stitching Line + —_L. High-Rise Position Normal Up Position High-Rise Normal Position, Up Position Presser Foot Lifter Settings 19Starting a Seam 1g and Supporting Fabric Applying Firm To! 20 Stitching a Seam STARTING A SEAM 1. With presser foot raised, turn hand wheel toward you to position needle in fabric about 1/2 inch (1.3cm) from starting edge. Lower the presser foot, 2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch almost to edge of fabric for reinforcement. 3. Release reverse-stitch lever and stitch in forward direction. GUIDING AND SUPPORTING FABRIC Most fabrics need only to be guided in front of the presser foot. Some fabrics, however, re- quire support while being stitched, as shown. These fabrics require using the straight stitch presser foot. CAUTION: Do not pull the fabric as you apply gentle or firm tension while stitching, as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break. «For filmy sheers, knits, tricot, etc., apply gentle tension by holding seam in front and back of the presser foot. * For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front and back when stitching in the same direc- tion as the stretch. For seams not on the stretch direction, stitch in the conventional manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser foot.KEEPING SEAMS STRAIGHT To keep the seam straight, use one of the guidelines on the needle plate. The numbers indicate distance, in centimeters, from the needle. If you want a 1.5cm (5/8-inch) seam, for example, line up your fabric with the un- numbered, heavy guideline. Note that both heavy guidelines (the most commonly used) are extended on the slide plate for your con- venience; the crosslines serve as cornering guides when stitching a square corner. For extra help in keeping the seam straight, you may wish to use the seam guide. Because it allows you to guide stitches between 3mm (1/8-inch) and 3.2cm (1-1/4 inches) from the fabric edge, it is useful for very narrow or unusually wide seams. Using Guidelines 10cm (9/8") 2.0em (3/4") Cornering 1.5cm (6/8") Crosslines Using Seam Guide TURNING SQUARE CORNERS To turn a square corner 1.5cm (5/8-inch) from the fabric edge, you need not measure or mark the seam. Simply use the crosslines on the slide plate. ‘Line up your fabric with right or left heavy guideline on the needle plate. Stitch seam, slowing speed as you ap- proach corner. ‘Stop stitching, with the needle down, when the bottom edge of the fabric reaches the cornering crosslines on the slide plate. * Raise presser foot and turn fabric on needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric. in line with heavy guideline. + Lower the presser foot and stitch in new direction. Pivoting at Corner Comering Crosslines Fabric at Crosslines Fabric after Turning 2422 Reverse-Stitch Lever CURVED SEAMS 1. Use a short stitch for elasticity and strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches to the inch (stitches approximately 2mm long) for straight seams, select 15 to 20 per inch (stitches approximately 1.5mm long) to stitch curved seams in the same fabric. 2. If you use the seam guide to guide stitch- ing, attach it at an angle so that the edge that is closer to the needle acts as a guide. REINFORCING END OF SEAM 1. Stitch almost to the edge of the fabric. 2. Press reverse-stitch lever all the way down and hold in place. Backstitch approx- imately 1/2 inch (1.3m) to reinforce end of seam. Stop the machine and release lever. 3. Raise needle to its highest position, raise the presser foot, and remove the fabric by drawing it to the back and left. 4. Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of presser bar. Cutting Threads4. ALL ABOUT ZIG-ZAG STITCHING two kinds of zig-zag stitches The zig-zag stitches built into your machine page 34, you will find instructions for both include basic zig-zag stitches and Flexi-Stitch decorative and practical uses of these stitches. patterns. In addition to the obviously decora- _ All of the basic zig-zag stitches and some of tive uses of these stitches, some also serve the Flexi-Stitch patterns are charted below. practical purposes. Under the section called (When sewing Flexi-Stitch patterns, set speed “Sewing the Professional Way” beginning on _range at SLOW.) BASIC ZIG. -ZAG STITCHES AND THEIR DIAL SETTINGS Buicgh Patiorm?o 8 ois7ieae Pattern Plain Zig-Zag Stitch i SPSS IISS : tis GA a Marbored Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag > ae VVVVVVVVVVV 3 1-5 Laas “eee Blindstiten i FLEXI-STITCH PATTERNS AND THEIR DIAL SETTINGS Stitch > Neodie Sire stitch Pattern Poi” Wiaih Position Gone) VA i 2-5 LAR Ric-Rac Stitcht e < DRIREROLOOGF g 2-5 LAR 2 Semaphore Stitch & WERT LTTE TTYL ETE CATS 4 2-5 LAR s Slant Overedge Stretch Stitcht a \AAAAAAAAAAAA i pe) a ee Overedge Stretch Stitch ‘This stitch is designed for strength and permanence and cannot be readily ripped out without risk of fabric damage. 23adjusting dials SETTING PATTERN DIAL To unlock dial, see instructions on page 6. Before moving the dial, make sure needle is above the fabric. Push the pattern dial in and turn it until de- sired zig-zag stitch pattern is between the red lines. To produce a Flexi-Stitch pattern, the stitch control dial must be turned until the symbol & appears under the red line. * Push In * Rotate «= Release ADJUSTING STITCH PLACEMENT To unlock dial, see instructions on page 6. Before moving needle position dial, move stitch width to 5, and make sure needle is above the fabric. Needle position setting A places the needle in center stitching position. Settings L and R place the needle in left and right stitching Positions at stitch widths less than 5. Setting A_ is used most often. Settings L and R are for special placement of stitching. For example, an L setting is required for bar-tack buttonholing and button sewing. An L or R. setting can be used to place narrow zig-zag stitching to the left or right of center in decora- tive work. To adjust stitch placement, turn needle posi- tion dial until desired setting is aligned with red line. Adjusting Stitch Placement Left Needle Position 24 Right Needle PositionADJUSTING WIDTH OF DESIGN To unlock dial, see instructions on page 6. Before moving dial, make sure needle is above the fabric. To produce a zig-zag stitch, turn the stitch width dial to any setting between 1 and 5. The higher the number, the wider your stitch will be. A stitch width setting of 2 or more is recommended for Fiexi-Stitch patterns. ADJUSTING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION Zig-zag stitching usually requires less nee- dle-thread tension than straight stitching. Make a test sample with the fabric and thread you plan to use so that you can adjust tension to suit the stitch pattern you have chosen. The stitches should lie flat against the fabric with- out causing the fabric to pucker. If the stitches are not flat and the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the dial to a lower number. ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH Any stitch control setting in the numbered area will give you an open zig-zag stitch of the pattern you select except Flexi-Stitch pat- terns. The triangular symbol on the dial desig- nates the FINE stitch area and is used for the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching (see page 26 for specific instructions). To produce the overedge stretch stitch or any other Flexi-Stitch pattern (refer to stitch pat- tern chart), the stitch control dial must be set ‘on the & symbol. Simply turn the dial down- ward until the symbol is centered under the red line. No further adjustment is necessary. When using the & setting of the stitch control, you cannot backstitch the stitch pattern Needle-Thread Tension Too Tight —~_z Correct Stitch Control Dial 2526 Adjusting Throad Tension Correct satin stitching Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig- zag stitches that form a smooth, satin-like surface, is useful for both practical and decorative work. The plain zig-zag stitch, for example, is suitable for bar tacks and appli- que when closed up to form a satin stitch. The Fiexi-Stitch patterns, however, have a single stitch length setting & and cannot be satin- stitched. When you wish to produce a satin stitch, make a test sample first so that you can adjust the stitch length and thread tension properly. Soft fabrics may require a backing to ensure firm satin stitching. Crisp lawn or organdy is suitable for this purpose. For best results use the special purpose foot. DIAL SETTINGS * Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag ] # Needle Position: A # Stitch Width: 2t05 ‘© Stitch Control: In FINE area ‘* General Purpose Needle Plate © General Purpose Foot or Special Purpose Foot Adjusting Stitch Length 1. Set stitch contro! dial at bottom of FINE area, 2. Run machine at SLOW speed. 3. Gradually turn dial downward until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth sur- face. Adjusting Thread Tension Satin stitching requires less tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider the satin stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. Notice the stitching on your sample. If the fabric is puckered, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the tension dial to a lower number.5. BUTTONS AND BUTTONHOLES buttons * Stitch Width: 4, and 4 or to suit button * General Purpose Foot The space between the holes in the button de- termines the stitch width settings. The A. set- ting must always be used to position the needle over the left hole and fasten stitching. For but- tons with standard hole spacing, use settings & and 4. For buttons with unusual hole spac- ing, use setting A and increase or decrease the width setting 4 as necessary. To sew on buttons approximately one inch (25cm) in diameter or larger: 1. Set stitch width dial at 4 . Position button under foot so that the needle will enter the left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle rises out of button and is just above the foot 2. Set stitch width at 4. Turn hand wheel toward you until needle is just above the right hole. Increase or decrease stitch width if required, so that needle will enter the right hole of button. Take six or more zig-zag stitches at this setting, ending on left side. 3. To fasten stitching, return to stitch width 4 and take about three stitches For best results with buttons smaller than one inch (2.50m) in diameter, it is recommended that the Button Sewing Foot be used. See page 59. Step 3 27Round-End Buttonhole Bar-Tack Buttonhole Finished Edge of Garment Center Line. | Buttonhole I Diameter of Button Horizontal Placement ‘on Crosswise Grain i+ Center Line of Garment Vertical Placement on Lengthwise Grain 28 buttonholes You have a choice between two buttonhole styles and two buttonhole-making methods: round-end buttonholes made with the bu buttonhole system of your machine and bar- tack buttonholes with square-ends made man- ually in four steps. Round-end buttonholes can be made in light- and medium-weight fabric; bar-tack buttonholes are best in lightweight fabric. BUTTONHOLE POSITION Accurate guidelines are essential to keep but- tonholes at a uniform distance from the edge of the garment, evenly spaced, and on the grain of the material, 1. For center closures, mark the center line of the garment as indicated on your pattern. This guideline can be made by hand bast- ing. The space from the center line to the ished edge of the garment must be at least equal to three-quarters the diameter of the button. With this spacing, the button will not extend beyond the edge when the garment is buttoned. Make sure that the center line marking follows a lengthwise fabric thread. 2. Mark a position guideline for each button- hole. * Horizontal buttonholes are placed to ex- tend 1/8 inch (8mm) beyond the center line of the garment, as illustrated, so that the buttons will be in the center of the figure when the garment is fastened Horizontal buttonhole guidelines should follow a crosswise fabric thread and be longer than the finished length of the but- tonhole. Mark ends of each buttonhole vertically. * Vertical buttonholes are placed so that the center line of the garment is in the center of the buttonhole, as illustrated. Mark the ends of each buttonhole hori- zontally across the center line basting and use the center linc marking as the buttonhole guide when stitching.BUTTONHOLE LENGTH Abuttonhole length should be just long enough to allow the button to slip through the opening jout stretching it. You can estimate the Proper buttonhole length by measuring the width plus the thickness of the button. To make sure the measurement is correct, cut a slit in a scrap of fabric the diameter of the button you intend to use. Increase length of opening until button slips through easily. This test is particularly advisable for buttons of unusual shape or thickness. BUTTONHOLE INTERFACING It is almost always wise to use an interfacing in the buttonhole area. An interfacing holds the fabric firmly so that a neat buttonhole may be stitched and keeps the finished buttonhole in shape, Interfacing is essential when the fab- ric is loosely woven or is a crepe or knit that stretches easily. When planning your garment, remember that both round-end and bar-tack buttonholes are stitched through three thicknesses of fabric (garment, interfacing and facing) after the fac- ing has been attached. TEST SAMPLE Always make a test buttonhole in a sample of your fabric to determine suitability of button- hole style, buttonholing method, and machine settings. Be sure to duplicate the number of fabric layers in the garment and include inter- facing if appropriate. Remember, too, that loosely woven and medium-weight fabrics re- quire buttonholes with wider side stitching than firmly woven or lightweight fabrics. Fin- ally, check to see that the opening for the but- ton can be cut without damaging buttonhole hing. CUTTING BUTTON OPENING Place a pin across the cutting space at each end of the buttonhole to protect end stitching. Use a pair of small, sharp scissors to cut the button opening. Insert blade in center of but- tonhole cutting space and cut from this point in either direction. Testing Buttonhole Length Cutting Button Opening 29ROUND-END BUTTONHOLES * Attach buttonhole foot *+ Use zig-zag needle plate PATTERN SELECTOR STITCH WIDTH End Stitching 1 ' { | | | Button | Opening ' 1 1 Cutting i i i i 1 | Space—ze i i i Buttonhole Length of Buttonhole Length Guide “Button ‘Stitching Markings Opening 30 NEEDLE POSITION STITCH BUTTONHOLE CONTROL Make sure buttonhole dfal is in OFF position when you set or reset stitch con- trol dial on). Buttonhole Length First, decide how long the button opening must be. This will depend on the diameter and thick- ness of the button as explained on page 29. Then add 1/8 inch (3mm) for end stitching (1/16 inch or 1.5mm for each end of the buttonhole).. This end-stitching allowance is approximate and should be increased slightly if the but- tonhole is to be stitched twice. Fabric thick- ness and thread diameter will also vary end- stitching depths, so be sure to check measure- ments by making a test buttonhole. Mark but- tonhole position and length on fabric. See page 28 for placement information. Buttonhole Stitch Width The stitch width setting, designated by — symbol, is an approximate setting; use it to make your test buttonhole. You may need to increase or decrease stitch width slightly to suit your fabric, to arrive at more pleasing buttonhole proportions, or to change the width of the buttonhole cutting space. When making stitch width adjustments, remember that as stitch width is increased, the cutting space in the center of the buttonhole is decreased.Finished Edge” Bal ‘Align’ Markings Starting Position Procedure * Place garment under buttonhole foot so that buttonhole position marking is centered. * Align center gauge line of buttonhole foot with center line of garment. + Lower the presser foot, and rotate button- hole dial downward until symbol for step 1 is centered under red line (click indicates engagement). « Start machine and let it complete step 1 of the buttonholing cycle; that is, stitching across the end and down the left side of buttonhole. Stop machine when front gauge ine on buttonhole foot reaches end-of-but- tonhole guideline on garment. * Rotate buttonhole dial downward until sym- bol for step 2 is centered under red line. + Start machine and let it complete step 2 of the buttonholing cycle; that is, stitching across the end and up the right side of but- tonhole. Stop machine when back gauge line on buttonhole foot is in line with the end-of-buttonhole guideline on garment. Take one or two stitches if necessary to overlap stitching at starting point. For a smooth, satiny appearance and greater dur- ability, stitch around the buttonhole a sec- ond time by repeating the two-step dial se- quence. * Remove work from machine, clip thread ends and cut button opening with sharp scissors. When buttonholes are completed, re-set dials, for regular sewing. Make sure buttonhole dial is in OFF position. Allan Markings f NES | at Step 1 Dial Presser Foot Position Setting ‘at End of Step 1 eee eS Align Markings f NES Center Line Presser Foot Position ‘at End of Step 2 Bae as | Finished Buttonhole Stitching OFF Dial Position at End of Step 2 31BAR-TACK BUTTONHOLES «+ Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag ‘Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of '* Stitch Width: 2% and 5 or to suit fabric your fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thickness * Needle Position: L ‘of the garment and include interfacing if ap- * Stitch Control: FINE propriate. * General Purpose Needle Plate * General Purpose Foot or Special Purpose Foot BUTTONHOLE LENGTH First decide how long the opening needs to be. This will depend on the diameter and thickness of the button. To find the right length, cut a small slit in a scrap of your fabric and gradually enlarge it until the button slips through easily. Then add at least 1/8 inch or 2mm (1/16 inch, or 1.5mm for each bar tack, the closing at each end of buttonhole), and mark the fabric as il- lustrated. This bar-tack measurement is ap- proximate; on some buttonholes, you may need to increase it to arrive at pleasing proportions. STITCH WIDTH SETTINGS Next, determine the two stitch width settings that you will need: one for side stitching and one for bar tacks. Settings 2% and 5 are il- lustrated below, although other combinations may be used, as long as combined widths of side stitching does not exceed the width of the bar tacks. Length of Bar Tacks and Cutting Space _—Side Stitching AR AR Ai af 46 pes 4 Selector Selector at2ve ats Side Stitching Bar Tacks 32PROCEDURE FOR MAKING BAR-TACK BUTTONHOLES With needle position dial at L, set stitch width dial on 2% for side stitching of buttonhole. Place work under needle, aligning center mark- ing of buttonhole with slot in the presser foot. Side Stitching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower the foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B. Raise the foot and pivot work on needle, Lower the foot. Take one stitch without changing width setting, bring needle to point C. Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar tacks and take at least six stitches. Stop at point D. Side Stitching: Readjust stitch width for side stitching. Complete work to point E, Leave needle in fabric. Final Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width for bar tacks, and take at least six stitches ending at point F. Fastening Stitch: To secure stitching, move stitch width dial to & and take three stitches. Remove work, draw threads to underside, fasten and trim. Place a pin across the cutting space at each end of the buttonhole to protect end stitching. Use a small, sharp scissors to cut the button opening. Insert blade in center of buttonhole cutting space and cut from this in either direction, A Side Stitching Cc. = vs is ti Bar Tack CI), Final Bar Tack 336. SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY construction details ZIPPERS At the notions counter in your Singer store, you will find many different kinds of zippers, one of which will be just right for whatever you h to sew. How the zipper is inserted will depend on the type of garment and the loca- tion of the zipper. The zipper package will con- tain easy-to-follow instructions, And, if you use the zipper foot, you will find it easy to form an even line of stitching close to the zipper. —— Pattern: Straight Stitch | * Stitch Wiath: 2 * Needle Position: 4 * Sitch Control: 1010 15 (approximately 1.5 to 2.5) + General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate + Zipper Foot Adjusting the Zipper Foot | Pr a“ : ' Zipper Foot to Zipper Foot to Right of Needle Left of Needle 34 Adjusting the Zipper Foot When the zipper is to the right of the needle: 1. Loosen the thumb screw at the back of the foot, and slide the foot to the Jeft of the needle, 2. Check the position of the foot by turning the hand wheel to lower the needle into the side Notch of the foot, making sure it clears the foot. 3, Lock the foot into position by tightening the thumb screw. 4. Lower presser bar. Make sure the needle Clears the foot on all sides of the notch. When the zipper is to the /eft of the needle, adjust the foot to the right of the needle in the same way. Zipper InsertionCORDED SEAMS The corded seam is a professional treatment for slipcovers, children's clothes, blouses, and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a notions counter), then stitch it into the seam. © pater: Sraigh Sitch © Stitch Width: A, * Needle Position: & # Stiten Control: Slightly longer than for regular seaming © General Purpose or Straight Stitch Needle Plate + Zipper Foot Making the Welting 1. Buy cable cord of desired size. 2. Cutbias strips of fabric to cover cord (width: three times the diameter of the cord plus 1-1/4 inches or 3.2om). If it is necessary to sew strips together to obtain desired length, join on the lengthwise fabric grain. 3. Fold bias fabric strip over cord, raw edges even 4. Adjust zipper foot for use on /eft side of nee- die. 5. Lower the presser foot. 6. Stitch close to cord (do not crowd stitching against cord), pulling gently on the strip, both in front and in back of the zipper foot. Stitching Welting into Seam 1. Attach zipper foot for use on right side of the needle so that the bulk of the fabric will fall to left. 2. Stitch welting to the right side of a single seam edge; guide the edge of the foot next to the cord but do not crowd. 3. Place the attached welting over the second ‘seam edge, and pin or baste together. 4, Place work under needle, with the first stitching on top so that you can use it as. a guide. Stitch, crowding foot against cord. ‘Making the Welting Stitch Close to Cord Making a Corded Seam Crowd Foot Against Cord 35BLINDSTITCH HEMS * Pattern: Blindstitch = # Stitch Width: 2 to 5 (to suit fabric) + Needle Position: & titch Control: 10 to 20 (approximately 1 to 3) * General Purpose Needle Plate * General Purpose Foot * Seam and Blindstitch Hem Guide Blindstitching provides a durable hem finish that is almost invisible. It is best suited to straight or slightly curved hems. Taped, bound, turned, or unfinished hem edges can be blind- stitched with equal ease. Blindstitching takes a little practice, however, so make a test sam- ple first. 1. Mark, turn, and press hem in the usual way. 2, Baste a guideline 1/4 inch (6mm) from top of hem edge. 3. With the work wrong side up, turn the hem under, creating a soft fold about 1/4 inch (6mm) from top of hem. ‘Seam and Blindstitch Hem Guide . Place hem edge over feed of machine with bulk of fabric to the left. . Screw seam and hem guide into hole at right of slide plate and adjust it over the right toe of the presser foot so that it rests next to the soft fold. . Stitch so that straight stitches fall on hem edge and sideward stitches pierce the soft fold. While stitching, guide the fold evenly against edge of hem guide. . When stitching is completed, swing guide out of position before raising presser foot. Remove basting stitch. Blindstitch Hem i | | | Y Basted Guideline Soft Fold 36 Blindstitching a Hem‘SEAMS IN FABRICS THAT RAVEL ‘Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel. There are two ways of finishing seams in such fabrics: trimming seam edge or overedging. Make a test sample first to deter- mine whether method #1 or method #2 best suits your fabric. Method +1 — Trimmed Seam Finish + Patten Pin Zigzag Bor Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag 2 + stten with: €or * Needle Position: & * Stitch Control: 8 to 20 (approximately 1 to 3), tosutalicn snd table « General Purpose Needle Plate + General Purpose Fost 1. Select the stitch pattern that best suits your fabric 2. Adjust stitch width and stitch length to give the most “open” stitch that will secure the fabric edge; avoid harsh over-stitching. 8. Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance. 4, Trim seam edges evenly, as shown, after stitching is completed. Method ++2 — Overedged Seam Finish * Pattern: Plain Zig-Zag, Blindstitch Multi-Stitch Zig Zag’ < # Stitch Width: 4 oF § * Needle Position: A * Stitch Control: 8 to 20 (approximately 1 10 3), tossuitstitch and fabric + General Purpose Needle Plate + General Purpose Foot sor 1. Adjust stitch length and stitch width to suit your fabric. 2. Trim seam edges evenly. 3. Place stitching over the trimmed edge of the seam allowance as illustrated. Trimming Edges Overedged Finish 37