COMPETENCY BASED LEARNING MATERIAL

Sector: AGRI-FISHERIES

Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II

Unit of Competency: PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

Module Title: PRODUCING ORGANIC FERTILIZER

TECHNICAL EDUCATION AND SKILLS DEVELOPMENT AUTHORITY

PROVINCIAL TRAINING CENTER
Bayombong, Nueva Vizcaya
 HOW TO USE THIS COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MODULE

Welcome to the Module Produce Organic

Fertilizer. This module contains training materials
and activities for you to complete.

The unit of competency Producing Organic Fertilizer is one of the Core

Competencies which contains the knowledge, skills and attitudes required for
all the programs offered by all TESDA-Institutes in Region 02.

You are required to go through a series of

learning activities in order to complete each learning
outcome of the module. In each learning outcome
there are Information Sheets, Resource Sheets and
Reference Materials for further reading to help you
better understand the required activities. Follow
these activities on your own and answer the self-
check at the end of each learning outcome. Get the
answer key from your trainer and check your work
honestly. If you have questions, please don’t hesitate
to ask him/her for assistance.

Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

You may already have some or most of the

knowledge and skills covered in this module because
you have:
 Been working in the same industry for some time.
 Already completed training in this area.

If you can demonstrate to your trainer that you

are competent in a particular skill or skills, talk to
him/her about having them formally recognized so
you won’t have to do the same training again. If you

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 have qualifications or Certificates of Competency
from previous trainings, show them to your trainer.
If the skills you acquired are still relevant to this
module, they may become part of the evidence you
can present for RPL.
A Trainee Record Book (TRB) is given to you to record important dates, jobs
undertaken and other workplace events that will assist you in providing
further details to your trainer/assessor. A Record of Achievement/Progress
Chart is also provided to your trainer to complete/accomplish once you have
completed the module. This will show your own progress.

DIRECTION FOR USE OF THE CBLM

This module was prepared to help you achieve the required competency:
PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER. This will be the source of information for
you to acquire the knowledge and skills in this particular module with
minimum supervision or help from your trainer. With the aid of this material,
you will acquire the competency independently and at your own pace.
Talk to your trainer and agree on how you will both organize the training
of this unit. Read through the module carefully. It is divided into sections
which covers all the skills and knowledge you need to successfully complete in
this module.
Work through all the information sheets and complete the activities in
each section. Do what is asked in the INSTRUCTIONAL SHEETS and complete
the SELF-CHECK. Suggested references are included to supplement the
materials provided in this module.
Most probably, your trainer will also be your supervisor or manager.
He/she is there to support you and show you the correct way to do things. Ask
for help.
Your trainer will tell you about the important things you need to consider
when you are completing activities and it is important that you listen and take
notes.
Talk to more experienced workmates and ask for their guidance.
Use the self-check questions at the end of each section to test your own
progress.
When you are ready, ask your trainer to watch you perform the activities
outlined in the module.
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 As you work through the activities, ask for written feedback on your
progress. Your trainer gives feedback/pre-assessment reports for this reason.
When you have successfully completed each element or learning outcome, ask
your trainer to mark on the reports that you are ready for assessment.
When you have completed this module and feel confident that you have
had sufficient practice, your trainer will schedule you for the institutional
assessment. The result of your assessment/evaluation will be recorded in your
COMPETENCY ACHIEVEMENT RECORD.

(ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II)

COMPETENCY-BASED LEARNING MATERIALS

List of Competencies

No. Unit of Competency Module Title Code

AGR612301
1. Raise Organic Chicken Raising Organic Chicken

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611306

2.
Vegetables Vegetables

Produce Organic Producing Organic AGR611301

3.
Fertilizer Fertilizer

Produce Organic Producing Organic

AGR611302
4. Concoctions and Concoctions and
extracts extracts

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 MODULE CONTENT

UNIT OF COMPETENCY: PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

MODULE TITLE: PRODUCING FERTILIZER

MODULE DESCRIPTOR: This unit covers the knowledge, skills and

attitude required to produce organic fertilizers
which include tasks such as preparing
composting area and raw materials and carrying-
out composting activities and finally, harvesting
of fertilizer.

NOMINAL DURATION: 21 Hours

LEARNING OUTCOMES:
At the end of this module you MUST be able
to:
1. Prepare composting area and raw materials
2. Compost and harvest fertilizer

ASSESSMENT CRITERIA:

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 1. Site is selected based on compost fertilizer production requirements and
2. Site layout is prepared based on location.
3. Beds are prepared in accordance with production requirements.
4. Materials are gathered based on production requirements and PNS for
organic fertilizer.
5. Prepare raw materials following enterprise procedure and PNS for
organic fertilizer.
6. Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production
requirements.
7. Compost is monitored based PNS indicators of fully decomposed fertilizer.
8. Quality of harvest is checked based on PNS indicators of fully
decomposed fertilizer.
9. Processing of compost fertilizer are carried- out based on production
requirement.
10. Record keeping is performed according to enterprise procedure.

LEARNING OUTCOME NO. 1

PREPARE COMPOSTING AREA AND MATERIALS

ENT CRITERIA:

1. Site is selected based on compost fertilizer production requirements and

2. Site layout is prepared based on location.
3. Beds are prepared in accordance with production requirements.
4. Materials are gathered based on production requirements and PNS for
organic fertilizer.
5. Prepare raw materials following enterprise procedure and PNS for
organic fertilizer.

S:

 Determine volume of production

 Characteristics of site
o Topography
o Area with minimum contamination
o Availability and accessibility of site
o Types of soil
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 o Good drainage systems
o Area with minimal sunlight
 Leveling of the site
 Bed preparation.
 Design layout based on composting method
 Preparing bed and raw materials

ONS:
The students/trainees must be provided with
the following:
s:
ging bar
ovel
er stick
nvass
o
Es
s for markers
ning materials:

OLOGIES:

1. Lecture discussion.
2. Demonstration

ENT METHODS:
bservation with oral questioning
emonstration
ritten exam

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 Learning Outcome 1
Prepare composting area and materials

Learning Experiences
Learning Activities Special Instructions
nformation Sheet No. 3.1-1 on Determine volume of  If you did not understood what
production you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
Self check 3.1-1 on Determine volume
your answer
of to the answer key
production
nformation sheet no. 3.1-2 on Characteristics of site  If you did not understood what
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 a. Topography you read from the information
b. Area with minimum sheet, ask your trainer to
contamination conduct mentoring or active
c. Availability and lecture.
accessability of site
 Listen and participate in active
d. Types of soil
lecture
e. Good drainage systems
f. Area with minimal  Answer again the self check to
sunlight validate if you understood the
active lecture
Self check 3.1-2 on Characteristics of site
your answer to the answer key

nformation sheet no. 3.1-3 on Leveling of the site  If you did not understood what
you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
Self check 3.1-3 on Leveling of the site your answer to the answer key

nformation sheet no. 3.1-4 on Design layout based  If you did not understood what
on composting method you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check 3.1-4 on Design layout based on Compare your answer to the
composting method answer key

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nfo sheet no. 3.1-5 on Preparing bed and raw  If you did not understood what
materials you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check. 3.1-5 on Preparing bed and raw Compare your answer to the
materials answer key

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 Information Sheet 3.1-1
Determine Volume of Production

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Determine the required volume of
production
2. Explain the fundamentals of volume of
production

Introduction
The first question you need to answer before
starting with organic fertilizer production is how
much do you need?
From this question, you can determine the
quantity of other materials you are going to need
such as animal manure, farm wastes, carbon, and
nitrogen materials, water and concoctions.

Determine Volume of Production

Factors in determining the volume of production.
1. Farm size
ining the size of the farm or the area of application is critical to the volume of production
because this is a requirement to compute for the consumption rate.

2. Consumption rate
e an idea of how much fertilizer you are going to produce, ask yourself first, how much am I
using? Or much can your farm consume at a given time?

pute for the consumption rate, one must first determine the standard application rate which
is usually 100 grams(100g) per square meter and the size of planting
area and the frequency of application to arrive at a consumption rate.

mple, if you have 1 hectare, and you perform land preparation on a 1000 sqms area once a
week, with an application rate of 100g/sqm, you are going to need 100kg
of organic fertilizer per week. The equation looks like this:
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ation rate) x (area of application) = weekly consumption

x (1000sqm) = 100kg per 1000sqm per week

3. Availability of raw materials

mputing the consumption rate, you now have a basis for the computation of raw materials.
Once establishing your required raw materials, the next problem lies in
acquiring these materials.

xt thing to establish are the sources of the raw materials, for example, rice bran which is a
carbon material essential in making fertilizer can be sourced out from
rice mills. Chicken manure, which is a nitrogen material can be bought
from poultry farms.

rimary raw materials are not available, look for other alternatives or secondary materials.
For example, rice bran can be substituted with saw dust or rice straw.
Chicken manure can be substituted with cow manure, copra meal or
coffee grounds.

4. Size of fermentation area

etermining your farm size, computing your rate of consumption, and availability of raw
materials, you can now establish your fermentation area based on the
rate of consumption.

y, 100kg worth of organic fertilizer would consume around 2.5m x 4m or 10sqm including a
work area per week. There are 4 weeks in a month which means you
need 4 batches of 100kg worth of fertilizer. 10sqm x 4 batches will give
you 40sqm or fermentation area. You can design it at 6.5m x 6.5m which
is more than enough to serve as fermentation area

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 Self- Check 3.1-1

Computation: Compute for the following:

1. If you have 3 hectares of farm land and you are performing land
preparation every week in a 2500 sqm, with an application rate
of .5kg/sqm, what is your consumption rate?
2. If I have 10 hectares of farm land, and I am performing land
preparation every week in 1 hectare, with an application rate of
100g/sqm, what is my consumption rate?
3. Compute for the area of my fermentation area if I am mixing 500kg
of fertilizer per week
4. Compute for the area of my fermentation area if I am mixing 350kg
of fertilizer per week

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 ANSWER KEY 3.1-1

1. .5kg x 2500sqm = 1,250kg per 2500sqm per week

2. .100 x 10000 = 1000kg per 1 hec per week

3. 100kg = 10sqm
50 sqm
4 = 200 sqm
= 14.2m x 14.2m

4. 100kg = 10sqm
sqm
140sqm
= 12m x 12x

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 Information Sheet 3.1-2
Characteristics of Site

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Determine the different characteristics of
fermentation site

Introduction
To have a successful fermentation in organic
fertilizer production, one must have an appropriate
fermentation site such as topography, area with
minimum contamination, availability and
accessibility of site, types of soil, good drainage
systems and area with minimal sunlight.

Characteristics of Site
phy
Topography is the study of the shape and features of the surface of
the Earth and other observable astronomical objects including plants, moons,
and asteroids. The topography of an area could refer to the surface shapes and
features themselves, or a description (especially their depiction in maps).
This field of geoscience and planetary science is concerned with local detail in
general, including not only relief but also natural and artificial features, and
even local history and culture. This meaning is less common in the United
States, where topographic maps with elevation contours have made
"topography" synonymous with relief. The older sense of topography as the
study of place still has currency in Europe.
Topography in a narrow sense involves the recording of relief or terrain, the
three-dimensional quality of the surface, and the identification of
specific landforms. This is also known as geomorphometry. In modern usage,
this involves generation of elevation data in digital form (DEM). It is often
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 considered to include the graphic representation of the landform on a map by
a variety of techniques, including contour lines, hypsometric tints, and relief
shading.

h minimum contamination
As stated in the PNS-OA on Pollution control and contamination management:
“Buffer zones should be established to minimize contamination from non-
organic farms. These may include, but are not limited to, multipurpose tree
species of sufficient density and height, runoff diversions, water filtration
ponds and/or diversion systems, and open space.”

ity and accessibility of site

Establishing accessibility in the farm can greatly minimize labor and
transportation costs. This can be done by preparing a comprehensive farm plan
outlining access/service road, and adjacent storage and fermentation areas.

soil
There are 6 main soil types:
1. Clay
a. Feels lumpy and sticky when very wet
b. Rock-hard when dry
c. Clay drains poorly
d. Few air spaces
e. Warms slowly in spring
f. Heavy to cultivate
g. If drainage is improved, plants grow well as it holds more
nutrients than many other soils
2. Sandy
a. Free-draining soil
b. Gritty to the touch
c. Warms up quickly in spring
d. Easy to cultivate
e. Dries out rapidly
f. May lack nutrients, which are easily washed through the soil in
wet weather (often called a "hungry" soil.)
3. Silty
a. Smooth and soapy to the touch
b. Well-drained soil
c. Retains moisture
d. Richer in nutrients (more fertile) than sandy soil

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 e. Easier to cultivate than clay
f. Heavier than sand
g. Soil structure is weak and easily compacted
h. A very good soil if well managed
4. Peaty
a. Contains a much higher proportion of organic matter (peat)
because the soil’s acidic nature inhibits decomposition
b. But this means there are few nutrients
c. Dark in color
d. Warms up quickly in spring
e. Highly water retentive and may require drainage if the water table
is near the surface
f. Fantastic for plant growth if fertilizer is added
5. Chalky
a. Alkaline, with a pH of 7.5 or more
b. Usually stony
c. Free draining
d. Often overlays chalk or limestone bedrock
e. This means some minerals, such as manganese (Mg) and iron
(Fe), become unavailable to plants, causing poor growth and
yellowing of leaves
f. This can be remedied by adding fertilizers
6. Loamy
a. The perfect soil
b. Good structure
c. Drains well
d. Retains moisture
e. Full of nutrients
f. Easy to cultivate
g. Warms up quickly in spring and doesn’t dry out in summer
h. Consider yourself very lucky if you have this soil

Soil improvement
Digging and incorporating well-rotted organic matter can significantly improve
all soils. In the case of clay, use horticultural grit or sharp sand (as well as
well-rotted organic manure).

Look to figure out what soil your garden has, first of all you need to get outside.

Water an area of soil with a watering can. Surface water disappears quickly on
sandy or gravelly soils, but remains longer on clay.
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 Touch
Take a handful of soil and gently squeeze.

 If it feels slimy and sticky, and when you release the pressure the lump
stays in shape, it is clay
 Sandy or gravelly soils feel gritty, and the ‘lump’ crumbles apart
 Peaty soil feels spongy
 Loam and silt feel smooth and retain their shape for longer that sandy
soil, but not as rigidly as clay

ainage systems
A good drainage system can save you from flash floods, contamination and
nutrient leeching in the soil. Establish a good water exit ways along and within
the farm to prevent accidents and contamination. During flash floods, a good
drainage system will automatically divert the influx of water out of the property
thus preventing any major damages

h minimal sunlight
The reason for this is that during fermentation, microorganisms are at work
and for them to be able to work properly, the temperature should be just right.
Now, if the fermentation process is under directly under the heat of the sun,
the temperature will heat up and if the temperature goes too high, past 50
degrees Celsius, the microbes will die.

Self- Check 3.1-2

Multiple Choice: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of your
choice on your answer sheet.

1. The following are characteristics of clay soil except

A. Heavy to cultivate
B. Few air spaces
C. Dries out rapidly

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 D. Warms slowly in spring
2. The following are characteristics of sandy soil except
A. Heavy to cultivate
B. Free-draining soil
C. Dries out rapidly
D. Easy to cultivate
3. The following are characteristics of silty soil except
A. Smooth and soapy to the touch
B. Dark in color
C. Heavier than sand
D. Good soil if well managed
4. The following are characteristics of peaty soil except
A. Dark in color
B. Contains much higher proportion of organic matter
C. Warms up quickly
D. Well drained
5. The following are characteristics of chalky soil except
A. Good structure
B. Usually stony
C. overlays limestone bedrock
D. some minerals are unavailable to plants
6. The following are characteristics of loamy soil except
A. The perfect soil
B. Drains well
C. full of nutrients
D. Free Draining
7. This can save you from flash floods, contamination and nutrient leeching in
the soil
A. Area with minimal sunlight
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
D. Availability and accessibility of site
8. Can greatly minimize labor and transportation costs
A. Area with minimal sunlight
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
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 D. Availability and accessibility of site
9. “Buffer zones should be established to minimize contamination from non-
organic farms. These may include, but are not limited to, multipurpose tree
species of sufficient density and height, runoff diversions, water filtration
ponds and/or diversion systems, and open space.”
A. Area with minimum contamination
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
D. Availability and accessibility of site
10. The study of the shape and features of the EARTH
A. Area with minimum contamination
B. Good drainage system
C. Topography
D. Availability and accessibility of site

ANSWER KEY 3.1-2

1. C
2. A
3. B
4. D
5. A
6. D

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7. B
8. D
9. A
10.C

Information Sheet 3.1-3

Leveling of the site
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Explain the leveling of the site
2. Apply these techniques when putting up a fermentation area
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Introduction
To begin with the preparation of organic fertilizers, we need to prepare
the site of fermentation and one of the procedures is leveling or flattening the
area. Discussed here are different methods and tools needed to level your
fermentation site.

Leveling of the Site

Methods of Leveling
1. Manual roller – a manual roller
looks like this. It is a cylindrical
concrete with a pusher attached to
it. Using the weight of the concrete,
this is used to level and prepare an
area for various applications

2. Tamping Rammer – A tamping

rammer is an example of a light-
heavy construction equipment
which is a little high-tech for the
purpose of leveling a fertilizer
fermentation site.

3. Hand Stomper – a hand held

stomper is a long handled tool
with a broad and flat head that is
used to flatten the groud

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 4. Steam roller – Probably the most
over-kill equipment that can be
used to level a site. Classified as a
heavy equipment commonly used
in construction sites and road
repairs

Procedures in Leveling the site

1. Determine the size of the area to be leveled. Use stakes to mark the
entirety of the area
2. Clear the area of weeds, rocks or any form of debris
3. Choose which method and equipment you are going to use
4. Using the method you chose, proceed with the leveling activity until the
required size has been leveled
5. Let it settle and you may add a lining or proceed with a concrete flooring

Self- Check 3.1-3

Multiple Choice: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of your
choice on your answer sheet.

method of leveling using a heavy equipment commonly used in construction sites

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 A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer

method of leveling using a cylindrical concrete and manually rolled to level the ground
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer

method of leveling using a light-heavy equipment that does an up and down action rapidly
like a jack-hammer to level the ground
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer

method of leveling using a hand-held tool with a flat and broad head to flatten the ground
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer

ANSWER KEY 3.1-3

1. C
2. A
3. D
4. B

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 Information Sheet 3.1-4
Design layout based on composting method
Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Be able to design a layout of a composting area
2. Implement different layouts of composting area
Introduction
After leveling and preparing the area of fertilizer fermentation area, the
next procedure is to prepare a design layout based on the composting method.
Choose the appropriate method of composting that best suits your needs.
Design Layout Based On Composting Method
Methods of Composting

Bin - Referred to in industrial

agriculture as ‘in-vessel
composting’ composting in a bin
essentially refers to any method
that utilizes a closed container. It is an
easy technique and is adaptable to
many different types of
permaculture plot, being suitable for
gardens, courtyards and even balconies. The contained nature of the bin
means that you can compost all year round, but while turning isn’t required,
the lack of aeration does mean that the composting process can take upwards
of six months, depending on factors such as material used and local climatic
conditions. You can purchase a general all-purpose bin or recycle any large
enclosed container, such as a barrel.

Turning Bin
To quicken the process of bin composting,
you can fabricate or purchase a container
that can be turned. A crank and pivot means
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that the whole container can be rotated, shifting the contents so that they are
aerated, and thus quickening the decomposition process. However, they are
unlikely to reach the high temperatures required for hot composting, so this is
a cold technique, although, depending on the materials, a turning bin can
produce useable compost within two months.

Pile
A pile is simply that: a mound of
compost that is open to the air.
Some gardeners use recycled
bricks or lumber to build a
containing wall around three sides of
the pile, while other will construct a
cage from chicken wire to stop the
compost pile spreading too much.
Ideally a pile will be wider than it is high, as this helps it retain heat better, but
a pile can be used in whatever space is available; it will just take a bit longer
for the compost to be ready. (If possible have two piles so that when one has
reached a manageable size it can be left to its own devices while new material
can be added to the second pile.) The length of time for decomposition will also
depend upon whether you choose to turn a pile or not. It is optional, and
therefore pile composting can be used for either hot or cold composting.

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Sheet
Sheet composting is very similar to
mulching, in that a layer of organic
material is spread over the garden bed
and allowed to decompose in situ. While
mulching tends to use a layer of a single
material, such as straw or wood chips,
sheet composting involves using different
types of material, such as leaves, debris
from the garden, kitchen scraps and grass clippings. In conventional gardens,
the compost is usually dug or tilled into the topsoil, but as a permaculture
gardener wishes to minimize digging the soil, you may want to spread the
compost on the ground then add a layer of mulch such as straw over the top.
This will increase the rate of decomposition and prevent the compost from
being eroded away by rain and wind.
Pit
A step on from sheet composting is the pit
or trench method. This is primarily
used for composting fruit and
vegetable scraps from the kitchen. It
involves digging shallow holes or
trenches into which the scraps are
placed and then recovered with the soil.
The anaerobic organisms within the soil
then break down the material over six to
twelve months. IA cold composting technique, it has the benefit of keeping the
compost out of sight and is a useful method for when you are establishing new
garden beds, as it gives the plants a consistent supply of nutrients in the root
area. However, it does require the labor of digging the holes and is not suitable
for brown material such as twigs as these would take too long to break down to
give the plants any benefit.
Examples of Layouts
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Sample layout 1

Sample layout 2

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Sample layout 3

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 Self- Check 3.1-4

Identification: Write down the corresponding answer:

1. A method of composting where you dig shallow holes and dump all of
your compost in it
2. Composting where you form a layer of organic materials spread over the
garden bed
3. A mound of compost that is open to the air
4. A composting method which uses a rotating bin
5. Referred to as ‘in-vessel composting’

ANSWER KEY 3.1-4

1. Pit composting
2. Sheet composting
3. Pile composting
4. turning bin composting
5. Bin composting

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 Information Sheet 3.1-5
Preparing Bed and Raw Materials

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Prepare a bed and other raw materials required in composting
2. Apply these techniques composting processes

Introduction
Once everything are in place, the composting area, flattened, along with
the shed, we proceed with bed preparation and critical raw materials required
in composting

Preparing Bed and Raw Materials

Preparing the bed
Our pile should be well protected from the elements because a compost pile,
after all, is some kind of hotbed. It should therefore be set up in a place where
we can control its environment, especially the temperature and humidity.

When the pile is too wet, it will not have enough oxygen. Without oxygen, our
beneficial microorganisms will not survive. When this happens, our pile will be
taken over by anaerobic disease-causing microorganisms, causing our pile to
smell.

Yet, when the pile is too dry, there will be no activity by our microorganisms for
lack of life-giving water, without which they die.

A good location for our pile is a place that is covered by a roof, out of the wind,
in a corner or against a wall, but where some sunshine can help heat it up. It
should be a place that is not wet and that can easily be drained, especially
during rainy season. If necessary, we build a drain canal around our pile.

Our pile should be placed in such a way that it is in direct contact with our
soil. That must be so because many of the microorganisms and macro
organisms needed in our pile are already present in our soil.
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Raw Materials
All natural organic materials can theoretically be used. For practical purposes
however, certain materials that are hard to breakdown, like wood are better
composted separately in a special manner.

1. Grass cuttings – will form the main ingredient of the compost pile. This
contains good amounts of carbon and all kinds of trace elements. Other
examples of carbon rich materials are carabao grass, cogon grass,
amaranth, corn, rice straw, etc.
2. Banana parts – specially the stem, we chop these into small pieces.
Banana parts are rich in potassium and phosphorous
3. Kakawate leaves, and other legume wastes are rich in nitrogen
4. Animal manure – are organic fertilizers that break down very fast and
should therefore be stored properly if they are not incorporated right
away into the soil because of nutrients easily escape through leaching or
evaporation.

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 Self- Check 3.1-5

Identification: Write down the best answer described in the question

1. Will form the main ingredient of the compost pile. This contains
good amounts of carbon and all kinds of trace elements.
2. Chopped into smaller pieces that are rich in potassium and
phosphorous
3. Nitrogen rich material
4. Organic fertilizers that break down very fast and should therefore
be stored properly

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 ANSWER KEY 3.1-5
1. Grass cuttings
2. Banana parts
3. kakawate/legumes
4. Animal Manure

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 Learning Outcome No. 2
Compost and harvest fertilizer

ENT CRITERIA:

1. Appropriate composting methods are applied based on production

requirements
2. Compost is monitored based PNS indicators of fully decomposed fertilizer
3. Quality of harvest is checked based on PNS indicators of fully
decomposed fertilizer
4. Processing of compost fertilizer are carried- out based on production
requirement.
5. Record keeping is performed according to enterprise procedure.

S:

 PNS for organic and mineral fertilizer

 Factors affecting decomposition process
 Methods and procedures of composting
o Rapid composting methods
o Double dug composting
o Six month composting
o Substrate composting
 Factors to be monitored during decomposition
o Moisture
o Temperature
 Proper use and handling of Moisture Meter
 Processing of compost fertilizer
 Moisture and temperature interpretation

ONS:

The students/trainees must be provided with

the following:
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 3. Tools and materials:
sture meter
ading fork
ovel
pail
Es
choderma
ncoctions
apsack sprayer
igenous Micro-Organism (IMO)
pared materials for composting
can night crawler
ver

 Learning materials:
S for organic and mineral fertilizer
nd-outs and Videos for Composting Methods

4. Training equipment:
mputer
D

OLOGIES:

 Demonstration
 Lecture/ discussion
 Field work/farm visit
 Video presentation

ENT METHODS:

 Demonstration with oral questioning

 Written exam

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 Learning Outcome 2
Compost and harvest fertilizer

Learning Experiences
Learning Activities Special Instructions
nformation Sheet No. 3.2-1 on PNS for organic and  If you did not understood what
mineral fertilizer you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
Self check 3.2-1 on PNS for organic and
your
mineral
answer to the answer key
fertilizer
information sheet no. 3.2-2 on Factors affecting  If you did not understood what
decomposition process you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the

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 active lecture
Self check 3.2-2 on Factors your
affecting
answer to the answer key
decomposition process
1. Read information sheet no. 3.2-  If you did not understood what
3 on Methods and procedures of you read from the information
composting sheet, ask your trainer to
 Rapid composting conduct mentoring or active
methods lecture.
 Double dug composting  Listen and participate in active
 Six month composting lecture
 Substrate composting
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
Self check 3.2-3 on Methods and procedures
your of
answer to the answer key
composting

2. Read information sheet no. 3.2-  If you did not understood what
4 on Factors to be monitored you read from the information
during decomposition sheet, ask your trainer to
 Moisture conduct mentoring or active
 Temperature lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check 3.2-4 on Factors to be monitored during Compare your answer to the
decomposition answer key
nfo sheet no. 3.2-5 on Proper use and handling of  If you did not understood what
Moisture Meter you read from the information
sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
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 validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check. 3.2-5 on Proper use and handling of Compare your answer to the
Moisture Meter answer key
3. Read information sheet no. 3.2-  If you did not understood what
6 on Processing of compost you read from the information
fertilzier sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check 3.2-6 on Processing of compost Compare your answer to the
fertilzier answer key

4. Read information sheet no. 3.2-  If you did not understood what
7 on Moisture and temperature you read from the information
interpretation sheet, ask your trainer to
conduct mentoring or active
lecture.
 Listen and participate in active
lecture
 Answer again the self check to
validate if you understood the
active lecture
self check 3.2-7 on Moisture and temperature Compare your answer to the
interpretation answer key

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 Information Sheet 3.2-1
PNS for Organic and Mineral Fertilizer

Learning Objectives: After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be

able to:
1. Know the allowed materials that are listed in
the PNS-OA
Introduction
The Philippine National Standards on Organic
Agriculture contains a list of materials for organic
and mineral fertilizer. This will serve as guide for
people who wants to go into organic fertilizer
production that coincides with the standards.

PNS for Organic and Mineral Fertilizer

According to the PNS-OA, there are a list of allowed materials that can be
incorporated in an organic fertilizer:

Philippine National Standards – Organic Agiculture

Annex B: List of Allowed Fertilizers and Soil Conditioners
Substances Description, Compositional Conditions for Use
Requirements
i. Plant and Animal Origin

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Animal manure (including dried), slurry, urine, The use of factory farm manure is
compost only permitted if it undergoes full
decomposition (e.g. composting/
fermentation) and needs recognition from
the competent authority. However, the use
of pig and poultry (raised in battery cages)
manure shall be subjected to the competent
authority’s regulation.
Guano Rate of extraction is subject to DENR
regulations
Blood meal, bone, and other meal brought in Origin of materials should be disease-free
from other sources and without preservatives
Hoof and horn meal, feather meal, fish and fish
products, wool, fur, hair, dairy products
Biodegradable processing by-products, plant By-products should not come from GM
or animal origin, e.g. by-products of food, feed, sources (Not treated with synthetic
oilseed, brewery, distillery, sugar press mud/ additives) Without synthetic additives and
mud press or textile processing residues
By-products should not come from GM
sources
(Not treated with synthetic additives)
Without synthetic additives and residues
By-products from oil, palm, coconut and cocoa
(including empty fruit bunch, coir, husks, -palm
oil mill effluent (pome), cocoa peat and empty
cocoa pods
Crop residues (straw, peanut hulls, etc.)
Mulches from sugar cane trash, straw, etc.
Green manure and green leaf manure
Azolla
Wood, bark, sawdust, wood shavings, wood ash, Should not be treated by synthetic
wood charcoal, wood/bamboo vinegar chemical
Calcium lignosulfate Recognized by the competent authority
products, Subject to BFAR regulations
algae
Peat Excluding synthetic additives; permitted for
seed, potting module composts. Not
permitted as a soil conditioner.
Plant preparations and extracts
Compost made from ingredients listed in this
appendix, spent mushroom waste, humus from
worms and insects and vermiculture substrate
Kitchen waste
Segregated biodegradable market waste Has undergone proper segregation, and
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 does not contain hazardous materials
Naturally occurring biological organisms e.g.
worms
ii. Mineral Origin
Basic slag Recognized by the competent authority
Calcareous and magnesium amendments Recognized by the competent authority
Limestone, marl, maerl, chalk, sugar beet lime Recognized by the competent authority
Calcium chloride solution Only from natural sources/origin
Chloride of lime Only from natural sources/origin
Gypsum (calcium sulphate) Only from natural sources/origin
Magnesium rock, kieserite and Epsom salt Only from natural sources/origin
(magnesium sulfate)
Rock potash, mined potassium salts (e.g. kainite, Less than 60% chlorine
sylvinite)
Sulphate of potash (e.g. patenkali) Obtained by physical procedures but
not enriched by chemical processes to
increase its solution
Sulfur Allowed if from natural source
Sedimentary rocks (limestone, dolomite, rock Cadmium should not exceed 90mg/kg
phosphate) P2O5 May contain elevated levels of trace
elements. Detailed chemical analysis is
necessary. Their widespread extraction can
also
deplete the natural deposits and may
cause negative environmental impact. Rate
of extraction is subject to DENR
regulations.
Pulverized rock, stone meal May contain elevated levels of trace
elements. Detailed chemical analysis is
necessary. Their widespread extraction can
also
deplete the natural deposits and may
cause negative environmental impact. Rate
of extraction is subject to DENR
regulations.
Clay (e.g. bentonite, perlite, vermiculite, zeolite)
Sodium chloride Only mined salt
Trace elements (e.g. boron, copper, iron, Need recognized by the competent
manganese, molybdenum, zinc) authority
Stillage and stillage extract Ammonium stillage excluded
Aluminum calcium phosphate Cadmium should not exceed 90mg/kg
P2O5

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iii. Microbiological
Biodegradable processing by-products of
microbial origin, e.g. by-products of brewery or
distillery processing
Microbial preparations (i.e. Trichoderma,
Rhizobia, Mychorrizae,
iv. others
Biodynamic and Agnihotra preparations

Self–Check 3.2-1

Enumeration : List down the best answer for the corresponding questions on
your answer sheet.
1. Give 10 raw materials under plant and animal origin classification
2. Enumerate 10 Mineral Origin raw materials
3. What are the 4 Mineral Origin based raw material that has the condition for
use: Only from natural sources/origin
4. What are the 3 Mineral Origin raw materials that has the condition for use:
Recognized by the competent authority
5. Give 3 examples of microbial preparations under Microbiological classificatio
Answer Key 3.2-1
1. Give 10 raw materials under plant and animal origin classification
1. Animal manure
2. Guano
3. Blood meal
4. Biodegradable processing by-products
5. By-products from oil, palm, etc.
6. Crop residues
7. Mulches from sugar cane
8. Azolla
9. Green manure
10. Kitchen waste

2. Enumerate 10 Mineral Origin raw materials

1. Basic slag
2. Clay
3. Limestone
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 4. Calcium chloride solution
5. Sodium chloride
6. Gypsum (calcium sulphate)
7. Magnesium rock, kieserite and Epsom salt
8. Rock potash, mined potassium salts
9. Sulfur
10. Pulverized rock, stone meal

3. What are the 4 Mineral Origin based raw material that has the condition for
use: Only from natural sources/origin
1. Calcium chloride solution
2. Chloride of lime
3. Gypsum (calcium sulphate)
4. Magnesium rock, kieserite and Epsom salt

4.What are the 3 Mineral Origin raw materials that has the condition for use:
Recognized by the competent authority
1. Basic slag
2. Calcareous and magnesium amendments
3. Limestone, marl, maerl, chalk, sugar beet lime

5.Give 3 examples of microbial preparations under Microbiological

classification
1. Trichoderma
2. Rhizobia
3. Mychorrizae

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 Information Sheet 3.2-2
Factors Affecting Decomposition Process

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify different factors affecting decomposition process
Introduction
Decomposition is more scientific than most people think. In this module,
we will discuss the different factors that will affect the decomposition of organic
fertilizer

Factors Affecting Decomposition Process

Requirements for Efficient composting

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Temperature
The compost pile gradually heats up over the next few days, we call this
period the ‘heating phase’. The heat comes from the body-temperature of the
bacteria that are present in our pili in enormous numbers. As they break down
the complicated organic tissues, they release a lot of energy that translates into
heat. This heat in turn stimulates many more microorganisms so that the
decomposition process accelerates. After a few days, the temperature of our
pile may reach 40 degrees Celsius and can even go up to 70 degrees Celsius

The heat not only accelerates the decomposition. It is also important for
sanitation: it is imperative that our pile reaces a ‘temperature climax’ so that
the heat will kill disease-causing germs and week-seeds, thus rendering them
harmless.

Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth, is an important factor for

composting to go with a swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic bacteria is higher than
mesophilic bacteria. In the initial stage of composting, its temperature is
almost the same with surroundings, after one or two days action of mesophilic
bacteria, the composting temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless requirements and kill most of
pathogenic bacteria just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low
temperature would greatly extended currying time while too high (over 70
Celsius) may cause adverse impact on composting micro-organism.

Moisture Content
Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in
composting process and nutrient materials can be
absorbed by microorganism only when they are
blended in water. The best water content of
composting raw materials is usually around 50%-
60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to
decompose while too high would bring down the
composting speed and lead to anaerobe
decomposition, stench generation and bleeding of
nutrient substance.

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The moisture of composting material is also closely related to the ventilation
capacity of COMPOST TURNER MACHINE and structural strength of compost
material. If the water content is over 60%, it will crowd air out, then materials
show compact state and compost will develop towards anaerobe direction, at
this moment, ventilation should be strengthened. On the contrary, if moisture
is less than 20 percents, microorganism will sign off and influence its growth.

Carbon: Nitrogen Ratio

Among a variety of elements needed by
microorganism decomposition, carbon and nitrogen
ratio are the most important. Carbon nitrogen ratio is
related with compost temperature. If the ratio of
material is high, that is, carbon is more while
nitrogen element is relatively deficient, bacteria and
other microorganism growth will be limited,
decomposition rate of organics will be slow and
fermentation process will be long. And high carbon
nitrogen ratio of raw material will easily lead to high
ratio of finished compost that will despoil the
nitrogen in soil, making soil fall into nitrogen
starvation and then affecting plant growth. However,
if carbon nitrogen ratio is too low, especially lower
than 20:1, carbon elements available for
consumption is lacking while nitrogen element is
relative surplus, which makes nitrogen of materials
become ammoniacal nitrogen to volatilize, causing
fertilizer efficiency lowering due to lots of nitrogen
loss. Therefore, in order to make sure microorganism
nutrient of organics decomposition balanced,
composting carbon nitrogen ratio should satisfy the
best ratio(25-35:1) required by microorganism.

Oxygen Content
As one of the key parameters of successful
composting, the quantity of Oxygen supply and
aeration is related to organic content in composting
materials, namely, the more organic carbon in the
material, the larger oxygen consumption rate. The
ideal oxygen concentration is 18%, once less than 18
percents, the micro-organism life activity in
composting process will be limited, easily causing
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 stench. In the issue of oxygen supply, the point lies
not in whether total oxygen supply is sufficient, but
rather in how to ensure oxygen existing constantly
without excessive ventilation at the same time. In
other words, on the one hand, compost workers
should avoid too long time refuse disposal and bad
smell caused by inadequate oxygen, on the other
hand, they also need to avoid temperature drop of
refuse dump and too much energy consumption and
running costs caused by superfluous aeration.

Particle Size
Because micro-organism proceed activities
through organics pellet surface, so lowering size of
pellet materials will increase the surface area and
promote micro-organism activity and accelerate the
composting speed.But on the other hand, too thin
materials also prevent the flow of air and reduce
oxygen content in composting, then bringing down
micro-organism activity speed. Hence, raw material
size should be reduced under the premise of air
ventilation

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 Self- Check 3.2-2

Essay: Discuss the following:

1. Describe how the temperature affect the composting process?

2. Discuss how the moisture content plays a part in composting?
3. What is your understanding of the C:N ration and how it affects
composting?

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 ANSWER KEY 3.2-2

1. Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth, is an important factor for

composting to go with a swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic bacteria is higher than
mesophilic bacteria. In the initial stage of composting, its temperature is
almost the same with surroundings, after one or two days action of mesophilic
bacteria, the composting temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless requirements and kill most of
pathogenic bacteria just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low

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temperature would greatly extended currying time while too high (over 70
Celsius) may cause adverse impact on composting micro-organism.

2. Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in composting process and

nutrient materials can be absorbed by microorganism only when they are
blended in water. The best water content of composting raw materials is
usually around 50%-60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to decompose while too high
would bring down the composting speed and lead to anaerobe decomposition,
stench generation and bleeding of nutrient substance.

3. Among a variety of elements needed by microorganism decomposition,

carbon and nitrogen ratio are the most important. Carbon nitrogen ratio is
related with compost temperature. If the ratio of material is high, that is,
carbon is more while nitrogen element is relatively deficient, bacteria and other
microorganism growth will be limited, decomposition rate of organics will be
slow and fermentation process will be long. And high carbon nitrogen ratio of
raw material will easily lead to high ratio of finished compost that will despoil
the nitrogen in soil, making soil fall into nitrogen starvation and then affecting
plant growth. However, if carbon nitrogen ratio is too low, especially lower than
20:1, carbon elements available for consumption is lacking while nitrogen
element is relative surplus, which makes nitrogen of materials become
ammoniacal nitrogen to volatilize, causing fertilizer efficiency lowering due to
lots of nitrogen loss. Therefore, in order to make sure microorganism nutrient
of organics decomposition balanced, composting carbon nitrogen ratio should
satisfy the best ratio(25-35:1) required by microorganism.

Information Sheet 3.2-3

Methods and Procedures of Composting

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify different methods in composting
2. Differentiate the methods in composting

Introduction
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 There are a lot of reasons why concoctions become contaminated. One of
these reasons are storage malpractice. In this Information sheet, it will discuss
how we should properly store, prepare and clean after our storage facility.

Methods and Procedures of Composting

Rapid composting method
Rapid composting technology involves inoculating the plant substrates used for
composting with cultures of Trichoderma harziamum, a cellulose decomposer
fungus. The fungus, grown in a medium of sawdust mixed with the leaves of
ipil ipil, is called compost fungus activator (CFA). There must be favorable
conditions for the decay process, such as adequate moisture, an appropriate
initial C:N ratio of substrates, and aeration. The composting period is
shortened to just four weeks.

Procedures:
 Preparation of Substrates

Substrates such as rice straw, weeds and grasses should be chopped.

Chopping helps speed up decomposition by increasing the surface area
available for microbial action, and providing better aeration. If large quantities
of substrates are to be used (i.e. several tons), a forage cutter/chopper is
needed. Chopping can be dispensed with if the compost is not needed in the
near future.

 Adjustment of Moisture Content

Substrates should be moistened with water. Plant substrates can be soaked

overnight in a pond, which cuts down on the need for water. If a large volume
of substrates are to be composted, a sprinkler is more convenient.

 The Compost Mixture

Carbonaceous substrates should be mixed with nitrogenous ones at a ratio of

4:1 or less, but never lower than 1:1 (on a dry weight basis). Some possible
combinations are:

 3 parts rice straw - 1 part ipil-ipil

 4 parts rice straw - 1 part chicken manure
 4 parts grasses - 1 part legume materials + 1 part manure

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  4 parts grasses - 1 part Chromolaena odorata or Mikania cordata + 1
part animal manure

Note: Chromolaena odorata is a common broad-leaf weed. Mikania cordata is

an herbaceous climbing plant, a common weed in the Philippines.

It is important to use grasses and weeds which do not have any flowers or
seeds.

 Composting Procedure

The substrates should be piled loosely in a compost pen to provide better

aeration within the heap. The material should not be too compact and no heavy
weights should be put on top. Compost heaps should be located in shady areas
such as under big trees. The platform should be raised about 30 cm from the
ground, to provide adequate aeration at the bottom. Alternatively, aeration can
be provided by placing perforated bamboo trunks horizontally and vertically at
regular intervals, to carry air through the compost heap.

The compost activator, consisting of a cellulolytic fungus, is broadcast onto the

substrates during piling. The amount of activator used is usually 1% of the
total weight of the substrates (i.e. about 1 kg compost activator per 100 kg
substrate). Decomposition is faster if the activator is mixed thoroughly with the
substrate. A greater amount of activator can be used if faster decomposition is
desired.

The heap should be covered over completely. This maintains the heat of
decomposition, and minimizes water evaporation and ammonia volatilization.
White plastic sheets, or plastic sacks with their seams opened and sewn
together, can serve as a cover.

The compost heap usually heats up in 24 - 48 hours. This heat is very

important, especially if manure is used, because it kills disease
microorganisms. Some seeds of weeds are also rendered nonviable.
Temperature readings should be taken at different parts of the pile at least
three times a week.

Heat should be maintained at 50°C or higher, and the heap should be turned
over every 5-7 days for the first two weeks, and thereafter once every two
weeks. Turning over the pile provides adequate aeration, and evens up the rate
of decomposition throughout the pile. It also serves as a means of checking the
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moisture content of the substrate. After the first week, the volume of the pile
should be reduced by one-third. After two weeks, the volume of the pile should
be reduced to one half the original.

 Compost Maturity

The compost is ripe if:

 The temperature in all parts of the pile drops to 33-35°C, or

approximately air temperature, after the 2nd or 3rd turning.
 The different materials in the substrate are no longer recognizable.
 The compost is dark brown to black, and looks like soil.
 The ripe compost does not emit a foul odor.

If the temperature of the heap drops to 30°C but the compost is not needed
immediately, it is best to let decomposition continue further. The mature
compost should be removed from the pen, and dried in the sun for two days. It
should then be put into sacks and stored in a shaded area. Decomposition will
continue until the substrate is finely fragmented, so that the finished product
has a powdery texture. Then, once decomposition is complete, the compost
should be sun-dried again until the moisture contest is at most 10-20%.

If mature compost is needed at once, it should be sun-dried for one day, as

soon as its temperature drops to 30°C. Drying removes excess moisture, and
makes the compost much easier to handle. Although the compost still retain
some fibers, it can be applied immediately as fertilizer.

In a tropical country like the Philippines, compost can be made throughout the
whole year. Mature compost can be stored for at least six months without any
appreciable change in nutrient content, especially if the stored compost has a
very low moisture content (10-20%).

Double dug composting

Through the magic of composting, you can turn organic matter, like food waste
or leaves, into fertilizer that you can use around your yard or in your garden.
Pit composting, also sometimes called trench composting, is less unsightly
than a compost pile and less work than building a homemade compost bin. All

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you need to do is grab a shovel, dig a hole, and you’ll be ready to add compost
material to it.
Procedures:

1. Dig the hole for your compost pit. Your compost hole should be about 1 ft
(30.5 cm) deep. The area of the hole will be determined by the amount of
organic matter you want to add. At most, the compost material should reach a
height of 4 in (10 cm) in the pit.[1]
 When estimating the hole's size, keep in mind that the compost material
will be finely chopped or torn to pieces before being thrown in the hole.
 Your pit can be as wide as you like. Garden rows, for example, can be
enriched with a compost trench dug at standard pit depth.
 If you have a lot of compost material, you can dig a deeper pit, but avoid
going deeper than about 3.2 ft (1 m). Important decomposing organisms
cannot live beneath this depth.

2. Chop your compost materials finely. Underground composting happens at a

much slower rate than aboveground setups. Exposing as much surface area of
the compost materials as possible is the key to speeding the process.
 Kitchen scraps can be ripped apart by hand, chopped with a knife, or
even pulverized in a blender or food processor.
 Yard scraps can be broken down using a lawn mower. Aim for pieces no
bigger than 2 to 3 in (5 to 8 cm) long, wide, and thick.

3. Add the organic materials to the compost pit. It’s time to start composting!
Dump your food scraps and yard waste into the hole, but remember – you don’t
want the materials you'll be composting any taller than about 4 in (10 cm).
 Use a shovel to mix the materials together so that they decompose as
evenly as possible.
 It’s especially important to make sure your carbon-rich materials (such
as paper and dried leaves) are mixed thoroughly with your nitrogen-rich
materials (like vegetable scraps and fresh grass clippings).

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  Well-mixed compost materials are important from the outset, as you
generally do not turn the materials like you would with other kinds of
compost setups.

Bin
Referred to in industrial agriculture as ‘in-
vessel composting’ composting in a bin essentially
refers to any method that utilizes a closed container.
It is an easy technique and is adaptable to many
different types of permaculture plot, being suitable
for gardens, courtyards and even balconies. The
contained nature of the bin means that you can
compost all year round, but while turning isn’t
required, the lack of aeration does mean that the
composting process can take upwards of six months,
depending on factors such as material used and local
climatic conditions. You can purchase a general all-
purpose bin or recycle any large enclosed container,
such as a barrel.
Procedure:
1. Choose your type of backyard bin - You can use either an open pile or
a compost bin. Bins have the advantage of being neat, keeping animals
out and preserving heat. You can purchase compost bins from a variety
of garden and home stores, or you can build your own compost bin.The
size and type of bin you purchase or build will depend on how much
compostable material you generate.

2. Choose your Composter Location - You should choose a location which

is flat, well-drained and sunny. Most importantly you should find a
convenient location. If it is in the back of your yard will you be willing to
trudge through the snow to get to it in the middle of winter?

3. Alternate Layers - Start with a layer of course materials (like twigs) to

allow for drainage and aeration. Cover this layer with leaves. Then simply
alternate between layers of greens materials (nitrogen-rich material) and
browns (carbon-rich material).

4. Add kitchen and yard waste as they accumulate - Collect your kitchen
compostables in a container in your kitchen. Find a handy place to store
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 this container container – on the counter, under the sink or in the
freezer. When it is full, empty its contents into the compost bin.

ver you add food scraps or yard waste, be sure to top it with a layer of browns. If you do not
add browns, your compost will be wet and break down more slowly. If
possible, collect and store dry leaves in an old garbage in the fall so you
can use them in your compost year round.

ing on the type of compost bin or pile you have chosen there may be specific ways of adding
and maintaining compost. Most of the composters you purchase come
with instructions; follow these instructions for best results.

5. Continue to add layers until you bin is full - The bin contents/pile will
shrink as it begins to decompose.

6. Maintain your Compost Bin - To get finished compost more quickly,

check your compost bin and make sure the following conditions are met:
 When you add fresh material, be sure to mix it in with the lower
layers.
 Materials should be as wet as a rung-out sponge. Add dry
materials or water – whichever is needed – to reach this moisture
level.
 Mix or turn the compost once a week to help the breakdown
process and eliminate odour.

7. Harvest your compost - Finished compost will be dark, crumbly and

smell like earth. You should be able to have finished compost within four
to six months of starting your bin.

shed compost will end up at the top of the bin or compost pile. Remove all the finished
compost from the bin, leaving unfinished materials in the bin to continue
decomposing. Be sure the decomposition process is complete before you
use your compost; otherwise, microbes in the compost could take
nitrogen from the soil and harm plant growth.

Sheet

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 Sheet composting is an ancient technique that
has many practical applications today. Also referred
to as lasagna composting or sheet mulching, sheet
composting is a cold composting method that has
been used by people around the world for
generations. It is an excellent way to convert grass to
vegetable beds, create new or enlarge perennial
borders, improve soil and soil structure and recycle
organic material at home. As with all compost, sheet
composting needs carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and
water in proper proportions to break down the
organic materials into a good growing medium.

Procedures:

1. Begin by mowing or scalping grass or other vegetation down to the lowest

possible level to the length and width you would like the finished bed to
become. Three feet wide is a good width as this allows the center of the bed
to be reached from either side. This may also be done directly in a
constructed raised bed.

ure there is good drainage by ‘popping” or loosening the soil underneath the bed with a
spading fork.

d any pernicious or persistent weeds such as blackberry, bindweed, morning glory or

quackgrass. Sheet composting may not smother these weeds.

he ground with 4-6 overlapping layers of newspaper or cardboard (carbon material that
smothers the grass and weeds underneath by preventing light from allowing
photosynthesis of the plants.)

newspaper or cardboard thoroughly and cover with a one-inch layer of a nitrogen source
such as manure.

nitrogen with an inch of leaves, straw, bark or other carbon material.

inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce scraps, manures or fresh green weeds
(minus the seed heads) or a combination of all.

ith another layer of carbon material; straw, shredded paper, leaves, dryer lint, etc.

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e to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen until the final height is reached (18
inches to three feet.)

ue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen, as materials are available. As the
material decomposes more layers may be added always ending with a
carbon layer. This is the “blanket” that discourages flies from laying eggs on
exposed nitrogen material such as kitchen scraps. The height of a bed may
vary depending on the amount of material and when the bed will be planted.
Generally speaking the greater the volume of material the longer it will take
for decomposition to take place. The final layer may be covered with
overlapping burlap coffee sacks to keep the materials neat and in place. The
burlap will gradually decompose over time but may be removed when
planting the bed.

Self- Check 3.2-3

Essay: Write the procedures for the following composting method

1. Bin type
2. Sheet type
3. Double dug
4. Rapid composting

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 ANSWER KEY 3.2-3

1. Bin:
a. Choose your type of backyard bin
b. Choose your Composter Location
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 c. Alternate Layers
d. Add kitchen and yard waste as they accumulate
e. Continue to add layers until you bin is full
f. Maintain your Compost Bin
g. Harvest your compost

2. Sheet type:
a. Begin by mowing or scalping grass
b. Make sure there is good drainage
c. Removed any pernicious or persistent weeds
d. Cover the ground with 4-6 overlapping layers of newspaper
e. Wet the newspaper or cardboard thoroughly and cover with a one-
inch layer of a nitrogen source such as manure.
f. Top the nitrogen with an inch of leaves, straw, bark or other
carbon material.
g. Add an inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce
scraps, manures or fresh green weeds (minus the seed heads) or a
combination of all.
h. Add an inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce
scraps, manures or fresh green weeds (minus the seed heads) or a
combination of all.
i. Continue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen until the
final height is reached
j. Continue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen, as
materials are available.

3. Double dug
a. Dig the hole for your compost pit
b. Chop your compost materials finely
c. Add the organic materials to the compost pit

4. Rapid composting
a. Preparation of Substrates
b. Adjustment of Moisture Content
c. Adjust the mixture
d. Proceed with composting

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e. Compost Maturity

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 Information Sheet 3.2-4
Factors to Be Monitored During Decomposition

Objectives:
ng this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Identify different factors to be monitored during decomposition

ion
During the decomposition period, there are factors to monitor to ensure the
quality of our fertilizer. It is not a mix and forget thing. We still have to look
out for its fermentation.

Factors to Be Monitored During Decomposition

Temperature
The compost pile gradually heats up over the next few days, we call this
period the ‘heating phase’. The heat comes from the body-temperature of the
bacteria that are present in our pili in enormous numbers. As they break down
the complicated organic tissues, they release a lot of energy that translates into
heat. This heat in turn stimulates many more microorganisms so that the
decomposition process accelerates. After a few days, the temperature of our
pile may reach 40 degrees Celsius and can even go up to 70 degrees Celsius

The heat not only accelerates the decomposition. It is also important for
sanitation: it is imperative that our pile reaces a ‘temperature climax’ so that
the heat will kill disease-causing germs and week-seeds, thus rendering them
harmless.

Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth, is an important factor for

composting to go with a swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic bacteria is higher than
mesophilic bacteria. In the initial stage of composting, its temperature is
almost the same with surroundings, after one or two days action of mesophilic
bacteria, the composting temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless requirements and kill most of
pathogenic bacteria just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low

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temperature would greatly extended currying time while too high (over 70
Celsius) may cause adverse impact on composting micro-organism.

Moisture Content
Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in
composting process and nutrient materials can be
absorbed by microorganism only when they are
blended in water. The best water content of
composting raw materials is usually around 50%-
60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to
decompose while too high would bring down the
composting speed and lead to anaerobe
decomposition, stench generation and bleeding of
nutrient substance.

The moisture of composting material is also closely related to the ventilation

capacity of COMPOST TURNER MACHINE and structural strength of compost
material. If the water content is over 60%, it will crowd air out, then materials
show compact state and compost will develop towards anaerobe direction, at
this moment, ventilation should be strengthened. On the contrary, if moisture
is less than 20 percents, microorganism will sign off and influence its growth.

Carbon: Nitrogen Ratio

Among a variety of elements needed by
microorganism decomposition, carbon and nitrogen
ratio are the most important. Carbon nitrogen ratio is
related with compost temperature. If the ratio of
material is high, that is, carbon is more while
nitrogen element is relatively deficient, bacteria and
other microorganism growth will be limited,
decomposition rate of organics will be slow and
fermentation process will be long. And high carbon
nitrogen ratio of raw material will easily lead to high
ratio of finished compost that will despoil the
nitrogen in soil, making soil fall into nitrogen
starvation and then affecting plant growth. However,
if carbon nitrogen ratio is too low, especially lower
than 20:1, carbon elements available for
consumption is lacking while nitrogen element is
relative surplus, which makes nitrogen of materials
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 become ammoniacal nitrogen to volatilize, causing
fertilizer efficiency lowering due to lots of nitrogen
loss. Therefore, in order to make sure microorganism
nutrient of organics decomposition balanced,
composting carbon nitrogen ratio should satisfy the
best ratio(25-35:1) required by microorganism.

Oxygen Content
As one of the key parameters of successful
composting, the quantity of Oxygen supply and
aeration is related to organic content in composting
materials, namely, the more organic carbon in the
material, the larger oxygen consumption rate. The
ideal oxygen concentration is 18%, once less than 18
percents, the micro-organism life activity in
composting process will be limited, easily causing
stench. In the issue of oxygen supply, the point lies
not in whether total oxygen supply is sufficient, but
rather in how to ensure oxygen existing constantly
without excessive ventilation at the same time. In
other words, on the one hand, compost workers
should avoid too long time refuse disposal and bad
smell caused by inadequate oxygen, on the other
hand, they also need to avoid temperature drop of
refuse dump and too much energy consumption and
running costs caused by superfluous aeration.

Particle Size
Because micro-organism proceed activities
through organics pellet surface, so lowering size of
pellet materials will increase the surface area and
promote micro-organism activity and accelerate the
composting speed.But on the other hand, too thin
materials also prevent the flow of air and reduce
oxygen content in composting, then bringing down
micro-organism activity speed. Hence, raw material
size should be reduced under the premise of air
ventilation.

Self- Check 3.2-4

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Essay: Discuss the following:

1. Describe how the temperature affects the

composting process?
2. Discuss how the moisture content plays a
part in composting?
3. What is your understanding of the C:N
ration and how it affects composting?

ANSWER KEY 3.2-4

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1. Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth, is an important factor for
composting to go with a swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic bacteria is higher than
mesophilic bacteria. In the initial stage of composting, its temperature is
almost the same with surroundings, after one or two days action of mesophilic
bacteria, the composting temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless requirements and kill most of
pathogenic bacteria just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low
temperature would greatly extended currying time while too high (over 70
Celsius) may cause adverse impact on composting micro-organism.

2. Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in composting process and

nutrient materials can be absorbed by microorganism only when they are
blended in water. The best water content of composting raw materials is
usually around 50%-60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to decompose while too high
would bring down the composting speed and lead to anaerobe decomposition,
stench generation and bleeding of nutrient substance.

3. Among a variety of elements needed by microorganism decomposition,

carbon and nitrogen ratio are the most important. Carbon nitrogen ratio is
related with compost temperature. If the ratio of material is high, that is,
carbon is more while nitrogen element is relatively deficient, bacteria and other
microorganism growth will be limited, decomposition rate of organics will be
slow and fermentation process will be long. And high carbon nitrogen ratio of
raw material will easily lead to high ratio of finished compost that will despoil
the nitrogen in soil, making soil fall into nitrogen starvation and then affecting
plant growth. However, if carbon nitrogen ratio is too low, especially lower than
20:1, carbon elements available for consumption is lacking while nitrogen
element is relative surplus, which makes nitrogen of materials become
ammoniacal nitrogen to volatilize, causing fertilizer efficiency lowering due to
lots of nitrogen loss. Therefore, in order to make sure microorganism nutrient
of organics decomposition balanced, composting carbon nitrogen ratio should
satisfy the best ratio(25-35:1) required by microorganism.

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 Information Sheet 3.2-5
Proper Use and Handling of Moisture Meter

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. To properly use a Moisture Meter
2. Apply these tools in actual fertilizer production

Introduction
As stated in the previous modules, moisture content is one of the factors
affecting the fermentation process so how do we ensure that the moisture
content is enough? We can use a moisture meter. In this module, we will talk
about the operation and proper use of a moisture meter

Proper Use and Handling of Moisture Meter

Moisture meters are used to measure
the percentage of water in a given substance. This
information can be used to determine if the material is
ready for use, unexpectedly wet or dry, or otherwise in
need of further inspection. Wood and paper products
are very sensitive to their moisture content. Physical
properties are strongly affected by moisture content
and high moisture content for a period of time may
progressively degrade a material.

Parts of a Moisture Meter

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splays the amount of moisture meter. It has a gauge of dry to wet. It also has an analogue
and a digital type display.
e probe works like a needle. This is inserted to the compost or any other material you want
to test the moisture content of

e a Moisture Meter
1. Turn on the moisture meter and make sure that the probe is clean and
dry
2. Insert the probe deep into the compost, about ¾ of the probe should be
burrowed
3. Read the display if it is dry or wet. Write down the date if needed
4. Analyze the data. Make adjustments if necessary

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 Self- Check 3.2-5

Identification: Write the correct answer being described in the question

1. Used to measure the percentage of water in a given substance

2. Displays the amount of moisture meter.
3. Works like a needle. This is inserted to the compost or any other
material you want to test the moisture content of

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 ANSWER KEY 3.2-5

1. Moisture Meter
2. Scale
3. Probe

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 Information Sheet 3.2-6
Processing of Compost Fertilizer

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Explain the processes of fertilizer composting
2. Enumerate the step-by-step procedures on how to process fertilizers

Introduction
There are a lot of reasons why concoctions become contaminated. One of
these reasons are storage malpractice. In this Information sheet, it will discuss
how we should properly store, prepare and clean after our storage facility.

Processing of Compost Fertilizer

Rapid composting method
Rapid composting technology involves inoculating the plant substrates used for
composting with cultures of Trichoderma harziamum, a cellulose decomposer
fungus. The fungus, grown in a medium of sawdust mixed with the leaves of
ipil ipil, is called compost fungus activator (CFA). There must be favorable
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conditions for the decay process, such as adequate moisture, an appropriate
initial C:N ratio of substrates, and aeration. The composting period is
shortened to just four weeks.

Procedures:
 Preparation of Substrates

Substrates such as rice straw, weeds and grasses should be chopped.

Chopping helps speed up decomposition by increasing the surface area
available for microbial action, and providing better aeration. If large quantities
of substrates are to be used (i.e. several tons), a forage cutter/chopper is
needed. Chopping can be dispensed with if the compost is not needed in the
near future.

 Adjustment of Moisture Content

Substrates should be moistened with water. Plant substrates can be soaked

overnight in a pond, which cuts down on the need for water. If a large volume
of substrates are to be composted, a sprinkler is more convenient.

 The Compost Mixture

Carbonaceous substrates should be mixed with nitrogenous ones at a ratio of

4:1 or less, but never lower than 1:1 (on a dry weight basis). Some possible
combinations are:

 3 parts rice straw - 1 part ipil-ipil

 4 parts rice straw - 1 part chicken manure
 4 parts grasses - 1 part legume materials + 1 part manure
 4 parts grasses - 1 part Chromolaena odorata or Mikania cordata + 1
part animal manure

Note: Chromolaena odorata is a common broad-leaf weed. Mikania cordata is

an herbaceous climbing plant, a common weed in the Philippines.

It is important to use grasses and weeds which do not have any flowers or
seeds.

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 Composting Procedure

The substrates should be piled loosely in a compost pen to provide better

aeration within the heap. The material should not be too compact and no heavy
weights should be put on top. Compost heaps should be located in shady areas
such as under big trees. The platform should be raised about 30 cm from the
ground, to provide adequate aeration at the bottom. Alternatively, aeration can
be provided by placing perforated bamboo trunks horizontally and vertically at
regular intervals, to carry air through the compost heap.

The compost activator, consisting of a cellulolytic fungus, is broadcast onto the

substrates during piling. The amount of activator used is usually 1% of the
total weight of the substrates (i.e. about 1 kg compost activator per 100 kg
substrate). Decomposition is faster if the activator is mixed thoroughly with the
substrate. A greater amount of activator can be used if faster decomposition is
desired.

The heap should be covered over completely. This maintains the heat of
decomposition, and minimizes water evaporation and ammonia volatilization.
White plastic sheets, or plastic sacks with their seams opened and sewn
together, can serve as a cover.

The compost heap usually heats up in 24 - 48 hours. This heat is very

important, especially if manure is used, because it kills disease
microorganisms. Some seeds of weeds are also rendered nonviable.
Temperature readings should be taken at different parts of the pile at least
three times a week.

Heat should be maintained at 50°C or higher, and the heap should be turned
over every 5-7 days for the first two weeks, and thereafter once every two
weeks. Turning over the pile provides adequate aeration, and evens up the rate
of decomposition throughout the pile. It also serves as a means of checking the
moisture content of the substrate. After the first week, the volume of the pile
should be reduced by one-third. After two weeks, the volume of the pile should
be reduced to one half the original.

 Compost Maturity

The compost is ripe if:

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  The temperature in all parts of the pile drops to 33-35°C, or
approximately air temperature, after the 2nd or 3rd turning.
 The different materials in the substrate are no longer recognizable.
 The compost is dark brown to black, and looks like soil.
 The ripe compost does not emit a foul odor.

If the temperature of the heap drops to 30°C but the compost is not needed
immediately, it is best to let decomposition continue further. The mature
compost should be removed from the pen, and dried in the sun for two days. It
should then be put into sacks and stored in a shaded area. Decomposition will
continue until the substrate is finely fragmented, so that the finished product
has a powdery texture. Then, once decomposition is complete, the compost
should be sun-dried again until the moisture contest is at most 10-20%.

If mature compost is needed at once, it should be sun-dried for one day, as

soon as its temperature drops to 30°C. Drying removes excess moisture, and
makes the compost much easier to handle. Although the compost still retain
some fibers, it can be applied immediately as fertilizer.

In a tropical country like the Philippines, compost can be made throughout the
whole year. Mature compost can be stored for at least six months without any
appreciable change in nutrient content, especially if the stored compost has a
very low moisture content (10-20%).

Double dug composting

Through the magic of composting, you can turn organic matter, like food waste
or leaves, into fertilizer that you can use around your yard or in your garden.
Pit composting, also sometimes called trench composting, is less unsightly
than a compost pile and less work than building a homemade compost bin. All
you need to do is grab a shovel, dig a hole, and you’ll be ready to add compost
material to it.
Procedures:

1. Dig the hole for your compost pit. Your compost hole should be about 1 ft
(30.5 cm) deep. The area of the hole will be determined by the amount of
organic matter you want to add. At most, the compost material should reach a
height of 4 in (10 cm) in the pit.[1]

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  When estimating the hole's size, keep in mind that the compost material
will be finely chopped or torn to pieces before being thrown in the hole.
 Your pit can be as wide as you like. Garden rows, for example, can be
enriched with a compost trench dug at standard pit depth.
 If you have a lot of compost material, you can dig a deeper pit, but avoid
going deeper than about 3.2 ft (1 m). Important decomposing organisms
cannot live beneath this depth.

2. Chop your compost materials finely. Underground composting happens at a

much slower rate than aboveground setups. Exposing as much surface area of
the compost materials as possible is the key to speeding the process.
 Kitchen scraps can be ripped apart by hand, chopped with a knife, or
even pulverized in a blender or food processor.
 Yard scraps can be broken down using a lawn mower. Aim for pieces no
bigger than 2 to 3 in (5 to 8 cm) long, wide, and thick.

3. Add the organic materials to the compost pit. It’s time to start composting!
Dump your food scraps and yard waste into the hole, but remember – you don’t
want the materials you'll be composting any taller than about 4 in (10 cm).
 Use a shovel to mix the materials together so that they decompose as
evenly as possible.
 It’s especially important to make sure your carbon-rich materials (such
as paper and dried leaves) are mixed thoroughly with your nitrogen-rich
materials (like vegetable scraps and fresh grass clippings).
 Well-mixed compost materials are important from the outset, as you
generally do not turn the materials like you would with other kinds of
compost setups.

Bin
Referred to in industrial agriculture as ‘in-
vessel composting’ composting in a bin essentially
refers to any method that utilizes a closed container.
It is an easy technique and is adaptable to many
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 different types of permaculture plot, being suitable
for gardens, courtyards and even balconies. The
contained nature of the bin means that you can
compost all year round, but while turning isn’t
required, the lack of aeration does mean that the
composting process can take upwards of six months,
depending on factors such as material used and local
climatic conditions. You can purchase a general all-
purpose bin or recycle any large enclosed container,
such as a barrel.
Procedure:
1. Choose your type of backyard bin - You can use either an open pile or
a compost bin. Bins have the advantage of being neat, keeping animals
out and preserving heat. You can purchase compost bins from a variety
of garden and home stores, or you can build your own compost bin.The
size and type of bin you purchase or build will depend on how much
compostable material you generate.

2. Choose your Composter Location - You should choose a location which

is flat, well-drained and sunny. Most importantly you should find a
convenient location. If it is in the back of your yard will you be willing to
trudge through the snow to get to it in the middle of winter?

3. Alternate Layers - Start with a layer of course materials (like twigs) to

allow for drainage and aeration. Cover this layer with leaves. Then simply
alternate between layers of greens materials (nitrogen-rich material) and
browns (carbon-rich material).

4. Add kitchen and yard waste as they accumulate - Collect your kitchen
compostables in a container in your kitchen. Find a handy place to store
this container container – on the counter, under the sink or in the
freezer. When it is full, empty its contents into the compost bin.

ver you add food scraps or yard waste, be sure to top it with a layer of browns. If you do not
add browns, your compost will be wet and break down more slowly. If
possible, collect and store dry leaves in an old garbage in the fall so you
can use them in your compost year round.

ing on the type of compost bin or pile you have chosen there may be specific ways of adding
and maintaining compost. Most of the composters you purchase come
with instructions; follow these instructions for best results.
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 5. Continue to add layers until you bin is full - The bin contents/pile will
shrink as it begins to decompose.

6. Maintain your Compost Bin - To get finished compost more quickly,

check your compost bin and make sure the following conditions are met:
 When you add fresh material, be sure to mix it in with the lower
layers.
 Materials should be as wet as a rung-out sponge. Add dry
materials or water – whichever is needed – to reach this moisture
level.
 Mix or turn the compost once a week to help the breakdown
process and eliminate odour.

7. Harvest your compost - Finished compost will be dark, crumbly and

smell like earth. You should be able to have finished compost within four
to six months of starting your bin.

shed compost will end up at the top of the bin or compost pile. Remove all the finished
compost from the bin, leaving unfinished materials in the bin to continue
decomposing. Be sure the decomposition process is complete before you
use your compost; otherwise, microbes in the compost could take
nitrogen from the soil and harm plant growth.

Sheet

Sheet composting is an ancient technique that

has many practical applications today. Also referred
to as lasagna composting or sheet mulching, sheet
composting is a cold composting method that has
been used by people around the world for
generations. It is an excellent way to convert grass to
vegetable beds, create new or enlarge perennial
borders, improve soil and soil structure and recycle
organic material at home. As with all compost, sheet
composting needs carbon, nitrogen, oxygen and
water in proper proportions to break down the
organic materials into a good growing medium.

Procedures:
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 1. Begin by mowing or scalping grass or other vegetation down to the lowest
possible level to the length and width you would like the finished bed to
become. Three feet wide is a good width as this allows the center of the bed
to be reached from either side. This may also be done directly in a
constructed raised bed.

ure there is good drainage by ‘popping” or loosening the soil underneath the bed with a
spading fork.

d any pernicious or persistent weeds such as blackberry, bindweed, morning glory or

quackgrass. Sheet composting may not smother these weeds.

he ground with 4-6 overlapping layers of newspaper or cardboard (carbon material that
smothers the grass and weeds underneath by preventing light from allowing
photosynthesis of the plants.)

newspaper or cardboard thoroughly and cover with a one-inch layer of a nitrogen source
such as manure.

nitrogen with an inch of leaves, straw, bark or other carbon material.

inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce scraps, manures or fresh green weeds
(minus the seed heads) or a combination of all.

ith another layer of carbon material; straw, shredded paper, leaves, dryer lint, etc.

e to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen until the final height is reached (18
inches to three feet.)

ue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen, as materials are available. As the
material decomposes more layers may be added always ending with a
carbon layer. This is the “blanket” that discourages flies from laying eggs on
exposed nitrogen material such as kitchen scraps. The height of a bed may
vary depending on the amount of material and when the bed will be planted.
Generally speaking the greater the volume of material the longer it will take
for decomposition to take place. The final layer may be covered with
overlapping burlap coffee sacks to keep the materials neat and in place. The
burlap will gradually decompose over time but may be removed when
planting the bed.

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 Self- Check 3.2-3

Essay: Write the procedures for the following composting method

1. Bin type
2. Sheet type
3. Double dug
4. Rapid composting

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 Answer key 3.2-3

1. Bin:
1. Choose your type of backyard bin
2. Choose your Composter Location
3. Alternate Layers
4. Add kitchen and yard waste as they
accumulate
5. Continue to add layers until you bin is full
6. Maintain your Compost Bin
7. Harvest your compost

2. Sheet type:
1. Begin by mowing or scalping grass
2. Make sure there is good drainage
3. Removed any pernicious or persistent weeds
4. Cover the ground with 4-6 overlapping
layers of newspaper
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the newspaper or cardboard thoroughly and cover with a one-inch layer of a nitrogen source
such as manure.
the nitrogen with an inch of leaves, straw, bark or other carbon material.
an inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce scraps, manures or fresh green
weeds (minus the seed heads) or a combination of all.
an inch layer of nitrogen; kitchen scraps, green produce scraps, manures or fresh green
weeds (minus the seed heads) or a combination of all.
inue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen until the final height is reached
ntinue to add alternating layers of carbon and nitrogen, as materials are available.
3. Double dug
1. Dig the hole for your compost pit
2. Chop your compost materials finely
3. Add the organic materials to the compost pit
4. Rapid composting
1. Preparation of Substrates
2. Adjustment of Moisture Content
3. Adjust the mixture
4. Proceed with composting
5. Compost Maturity

Information Sheet 3.2-7

Moisture and Temperature Interpretation

Learning Objectives:
After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:
1. Monitor the moisture and temperature properly
2. Explain the observation results during fermentation regarding
moisture and temperature

Introduction
During the decomposition period, there are factors to monitor to ensure the
quality of our fertilizer. It is not a mix and forget thing. We still have to look
out for its fermentation.

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 Moisture and Temperature Interpretation
Temperature
The compost pile gradually heats up over the next few days, we call this
period the ‘heating phase’. The heat comes from the body-temperature of the
bacteria that are present in our pili in enormous numbers. As they break down
the complicated organic tissues, they release a lot of energy that translates into
heat. This heat in turn stimulates many more microorganisms so that the
decomposition process accelerates. After a few days, the temperature of our
pile may reach 40 degrees Celsius and can even go up to 70 degrees Celsius

The heat not only accelerates the

decomposition. It is also important for sanitation: it
is imperative that our pile reaces a ‘temperature
climax’ so that the heat will kill disease-causing
germs and week-seeds, thus rendering them
harmless.

Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth,

is an important factor for composting to go with a
swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic
bacteria is higher than mesophilic bacteria. In the
initial stage of composting, its temperature is almost
the same with surroundings, after one or two days
action of mesophilic bacteria, the composting
temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless
requirements and kill most of pathogenic bacteria
just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low
temperature would greatly extended currying time
while too high (over 70 Celsius) may cause adverse
impact on composting micro-organism.

Moisture Content
Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in
composting process and nutrient materials can be
absorbed by microorganism only when they are

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 blended in water. The best water content of
composting raw materials is usually around 50%-
60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to
decompose while too high would bring down the
composting speed and lead to anaerobe
decomposition, stench generation and bleeding of
nutrient substance.

The moisture of composting material is also

closely related to the ventilation capacity of Compost
Turner Machine and structural strength of compost
material. If the water content is over 60%, it will
crowd air out, then materials show compact state
and compost will develop towards anaerobe direction,
at this moment, ventilation should be strengthened.
On the contrary, if moisture is less than 20 percents,
microorganism will sign off and influence its growth.

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 Self- Check 3.2-7

Essay: Discuss the following:

1. Describe how the temperature affect the composting process?

2. Discuss how the moisture content plays a part in composting?

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 ANSWER KEY 3.2-7

1. Temperature, affecting micro-organism growth, is an important factor for

composting to go with a swing. It’s generally acknowledged that the
degradation efficiency for organics of thermophilic bacteria is higher than
mesophilic bacteria. In the initial stage of composting, its temperature is
almost the same with surroundings, after one or two days action of mesophilic
bacteria, the composting temperature will reach to 50-65 Celsius, and under
this, composting can reach the harmless requirements and kill most of
pathogenic bacteria just through 5-6 days. Briefly speaking, too low
temperature would greatly extended currying time while too high (over 70
Celsius) may cause adverse impact on composting micro-organism.

2. Moisture is one of the necessary conditions in composting process and

nutrient materials can be absorbed by microorganism only when they are
blended in water. The best water content of composting raw materials is
usually around 50%-60%. Too low moisture (less than 30%) would affect
microorganism activity and make organics hard to decompose while too high
would bring down the composting speed and lead to anaerobe decomposition,
stench generation and bleeding of nutrient substance.

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 References

 Organic Agriculture – Blesilda M. Calub, Edna Luisa A. Matienzo – 2013

 www.google. com
kipedia.com
c.agnet.org
kihow.com
bc.co.uk
nowledgebank.irri.org
mpost-turner.net
generative.com

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 INSTRUMENT FOR INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT

EVIDENCE PLAN

Qualification Title ORAGNIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION NC II

Unit of Competency PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

The evidence must show that the candidate… Ways in which evidence will
be collected

 Factors to consider in the selection of site

for the production of organic fertilizer.

 Preparation of the site-layout and bed is in

accordance with production requirements

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  Gathering of raw materials to be used in
the production of organic fertilizer

 Preparation of raw materials following

enterprise standards

 Appropriate application of
Composting methods based on production
requirements
 Monitoring of composts based on PNS
indicators of fully decomposed fertilizer.

 Quality of harvest is checked based on

PNS indicators

 Processing of compost fertilizers are carried

out based on production requirements.

 Record keeping is performed according to

enterprise procedure.

Prepared Date:
by:

Checked Date:
by:

COMPETENCY ASSESSMENT RESULTS SUMMARY

Candidate’s Name:

Assessor’s Name:
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Qualification:

Date of Assessment:

Assessment Center:

The performance of the candidate in the following

assessment methods – Produce Organic Not
Fertilizer Satisfactory
Satisfactory
[Pls. check () appropriate box]

A. Demonstration with Oral Questioning

B. Written Exam

Did the candidate's overall performance meet the

required evidences/ standards?

OVERALL EVALUATION COMPETENT NOT YET COMPETENT

Recommendation
For re-assessment.
_______________________________________________________
For submission of document. Pls. specify (Portfolio Document)
_____________________
For issuance of NC ______________________________________________________

General Comments [Strengths / Improvements needed]

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Candidate’s
signature: Date:

Assessor’s
Date:
signature:

RATING SHEET FOR OBSERVATION/ WITH ORAL QUESTIONING

Candidate’s
Name:

Assessor’s Name:

Assessment
Center:

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 Qualification: ORGANIC AGRICULTURE PRODUCTION

Unit of
PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER
Competency

Instructions for the assessor:

Date of observation:

Description of assessment
activity:

Location of assessment
activity:

If yes, tick the

During the performance of skills, the candidate….
box
 Showed proper attitude during the practical

exercises
 Developed skills in the production of organic

fertilizers
 Demonstrated appropriate practices during the

demostration
 Observed cleanliness and orderliness in the

workplace.
 Practiced record keeping in the workplace. 
 Showed interest in any group activity given to

them.

Assessor’s signature: Date:

RATING SHEET FOR OBSERVATION/DEMONSTRATION WITH ORAL

QUESTIONING

Satisfactory
response

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 The candidate should answer the following
Yes No
questions:
 How will you identify the different raw materials
in preparing for the production of organic fertilizers

 What will you do to be able to produce organic

fertilizers in your own backyard?

 In case that the raw materials are unavailable

what alternatives should we consider in making
organic fertilizers/

 What will you do in case the organic fertilizers has

already expired?

 How will you encourage others in using Organic

Fertilizers?

The candidate’s underpinning knowledge was:

Satisfactory  Not Satisfactory 

Feedback to candidate:

The candidate’s overall performance was:

Satisfactory  Not Satisfactory 

Assessor signature: Date:

RATING SHEET FOR WRITTEN TEST

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Candidate’s
Name:

Assessor’s Name:

Assessment
Center:

Qualification: PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

Unit of
PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER
Competency

Instructions for the assessor:

Date of observation:

Description of assessment
activity:

Location of assessment
activity:

During the performance of skills, the candidate…. If yes, tick the box

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 Assessor’s signature: Date:

SUGGESTED QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS FOR OBSERVATION /

DEMONSTRATION

Qualification:

Unit of Competency PRODUCE ORGANIC FERTILIZER

1. Explain what are the things to consider in producing organic fertilizer?

Answer:

2. How will the production of organic fertilizer help your life?

Answer:

3. What will you do inn case such organic fertilizer expires?

Answer:

4. In case of scarcity of raw materials for the production of fertilizer, what

should you do?

6. Explain the importance of using Organic Fertilizer?

Answer:

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
Organic
TESDA Page 96 of 111
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Eugenio
 INSTITUTIONAL ASSESSMENT

TEST I
Multiple Choice: Choose the letter of the best answer. Write the letter of
your choice on your answer sheet.

1. The following are characteristics of clay soil except

A. Heavy to cultivate
B. Few air spaces
C. Dries out rapidly
D. Warms slowly in spring
2. The following are characteristics of sandy soil except
A. Heavy to cultivate
B. Free-draining soil
C. Dries out rapidly
D. Easy to cultivate
3. The following are characteristics of silty soil except
A. Smooth and soapy to the touch
B. Dark in color
C. Heavier than sand
D. Good soil if well managed
4. The following are characteristics of peaty soil except
A. Dark in color
B. Contains much higher proportion of organic matter
C. Warms up quickly
D. Well drained
5. The following are characteristics of chalky soil except
A. Good structure
B. Usually stony
C. overlays limestone bedrock
D. some minerals are unavailable to plants
6. The following are characteristics of loamy soil except
A. The perfect soil
B. Drains well

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
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Eugenio
 C. full of nutrients
D. Free Draining
7. This can save you from flash floods, contamination and nutrient
leeching in the soil
A. Area with minimal sunlight
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
D. Availability and accessibility of site
8. Can greatly minimize labor and transportation costs
A. Area with minimal sunlight
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
D. Availability and accessibility of site
9. “Buffer zones should be established to minimize contamination from
non-organic farms. These may include, but are not limited to, multipurpose
tree species of sufficient density and height, runoff diversions, water
filtration ponds and/or diversion systems, and open space.”
A. Area with minimum contamination
B. Good drainage system
C. Area with minimum contamination
D. Availability and accessibility of site
10. The study of the shape and features of the surface of the Earth
A. Area with minimum contamination
B. Good drainage system
C. Topography
D. Availability and accessibility of site
11. A method of leveling using a heavy equipment commonly used in
construction sites
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer
12. A method of leveling using a cylindrical concrete and manually rolled to
level the ground
A. Manual roller

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
Organic
TESDA Page 98 of 111
Agriculture
Developed by: PTC-Nueva
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Eugenio
 B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer
13. A method of leveling using a light-heavy equipment that does an up
and down action rapidly like a jack-hammer to level the ground
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer
14. A method of leveling using a hand-held tool with a flat and broad head
to flatten the ground
A. Manual roller
B. Hand stomper
C. Steam roller
D. Tamping rammer
15. Works like a needle. This is inserted to the compost or any other
material you want to test the moisture content of.
A. Probe
B. Soil Tester
C. Scale
D. Moisture Meter

TEST II
Identification:
Write down the corresponding answer:

ethod of composting where you dig shallow holes and dump all of your compost in it
mposting where you form a layer of organic materials spread over the garden bed
3. A mound of compost that is open to the
air
4. A composting method which uses a
rotating bin
5. Referred to as ‘in-vessel composting.
form the main ingredient of the compost pile. This contains good amounts of carbon and

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
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 all kinds of trace elements.
pped into smaller pieces that are rich in potassium and phosphorous
8. Nitrogen rich material
anic fertilizers that break down very fast and should therefore be stored properly
10. Used to measure the percentage of
water in a given substance

TEST III

Enumeration:
A. Give 10 raw materials under plant and
animal origin classification
B. Enumerate 10 Mineral Origin raw
materials

TEST IV
Essay

Write the procedures for the following composting method

(10 pts. Each)

1. Bin type
2. Double dug
3. Rapid composting

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
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Agriculture 111
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Production NC II
Gary Zaldy Vizcaya
Eugenio
 Answer Key

TEST I
Multiple Choice
1. C
2. A
3. B
4. D
5. A
6. D
7. B
8. D
9. A
10. C
11. C
12. A
13. D
14. B
15. A
Date Developed: Document No.
June 2021 Issued by:
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Eugenio
TEST II
Identification
1. Pit composting
2. Sheet composting
3. Pile composting
4. turning bin composting
5. Bin composting
6. Grass cuttings
7. Banana parts
8. kakawate/legumes
9. Animal Manure
10. Moisture Meter

TEST III
Enumeration
A.
1. Animal manure
2. Guano
3. Blood meal
4. Biodegradable processing by-products
5. By-products from oil, palm, etc.
6. Crop residues
7. Mulches from sugar cane
8. Azolla
9. Green manure
10. Kitchen waste

B.
1. Basic slag
2. Clay
3. Limestone
4. Calcium chloride solution
5. Sodium chloride
6. Gypsum (calcium sulphate)
7. Magnesium rock, kieserite and Epsom salt

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
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Eugenio
8. Rock potash, mined potassium salts
9. Sulfur
10. Pulverized rock, stone meal
TEST IV
1. Bin:
1. Choose your type of backyard bin
2. Choose your Composter Location
3. Alternate Layers
4. Add kitchen and yard waste as they
accumulate
5. Continue to add layers until you bin is
full
6. Maintain your Compost Bin
7. Harvest your compost

2. Double dug
1. Dig the hole for your compost pit
2. Chop your compost materials finely
3. Add the organic materials to the
compost pit
3. Rapid composting
1. Preparation of Substrates
2. Adjustment of Moisture Content
3. Adjust the mixture
4. Proceed with composting
5. Compost Maturity

Date Developed: Document No.

June 2021 Issued by:
Organic Page 103 of
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Eugenio
 Date Developed: Document No.
June 2021 Issued by:
Organic Page 104 of
TESDA
Agriculture 111
Developed by: PTC-Nueva
Production NC II
Gary Zaldy Vizcaya
Eugenio