Garment Production

Level-I
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1

Module Title: - Developing Basic Pattern

Module code: IND GAP1 M03 0322
Nominal duration: 120 Hour

Prepared by: Ministry of Labour and Skill

August, 2022
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
 Acknowledgment

Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many
representatives of TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time
and expertise to the development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).

ACRONYM

OHS: - Occupational Health and Safety

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 SWMS:-.safe work method statements

CB:-centre back

CF:-canter front

Table of Contents

Acknowledgment............................................................................................................................2

ACRONYM ....................................................................................................................................3

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 INTRODUCTION OF THE MODULE ......................................................................................7

UNIT ONE: - BODY MEASUREMENT ....................................................................................9

1.1 Interpreting basic sketch ....................................................................................9
1.2 Pattern making material, tools and equipment.................................................10
1.2 Measuring tools and equipment.......................................................................12
1.3 Take body measurement .................................................................................14
1.3.1 The horizontal measurement..................................................................14
1.3.2The circumferential measurement .................................................................14
1.3.2 The vertical measurement ......................................................................16

OPERATION SHEET #1............................................................................................................17

SELF CHECK QUESTION 1.....................................................................................................18

UNIT TWO: - ASSESS PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS..................................................21

What is a Fit Model?...............................................................................................21

UNIT THREE: - MEASUREMENTS AND INTERPRET SIZE STANDARDS..................22

3.1 type of measurements .....................................................................................22
3.1.1 Four Fundamental Operations Used for Simple Calculations.......................23
3.2 Measurement system.......................................................................................23
3.3 Categorizing Sizes ......................................................................................23

SELF-SHEET 3............................................................................................................................24

UNIT FOUR: - BLOCK/BASIC PATTERN ............................................................................26

4.1 Interpreting Design drawings and specifications ........................................27
4.2 Pattern making Principles according to specifications ................................29
4.3 Block/ Basic pattern .........................................................................................30
4.3.1 Pattern pieces and information including................................................32
4.3.2 Checking of pattern pieces .....................................................................32
4.3 Methods and formulas ................................................................................32

Self-cheek 4...................................................................................................................................33

UNIT FIVE: - COMPLETE WORK .........................................................................................35

5.1 Producing basic garment Pattern, pattern information’s and finished pattern. 36

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 5.2 Classification and types of skirts ......................................................................39
5.2.1. According to the length..........................................................................39
5.2.2. According to the silhouette ....................................................................40
6.2.3. According to the waistband of skirt:.......................................................40
5.2.4 Skirts can be divided into four categories according to the shape .......40

Operation Sheet – 5 .....................................................................................................................40

Operation Sheet 5.1 .....................................................................................................................43

Self-check 5.2................................................................................................................................47

Lap Test 5 .....................................................................................................................................47

Reference ......................................................................................................................................48

Table 1 Pattern making material, tools and equipment...............................................................................10

Table 2 Reference size for children’s or babies wear trouser .....................................................................23
Table 3 Reference size for children’s or baby’s wear upper body part.....................................................23
Table 4Reference size for women’s (height 160-170cm) ...........................................................................24
Table 5Measurements required for structure drawing of the trousers ........................................................44
Table 6 measurements of skirt and pant....................................................................................................48

Figure 1 Tape measure ...............................................................................................................................12

Figure 2Pen/Pencil......................................................................................................................................13
Figure 3Male and Female dummy ..............................................................................................................13

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 Figure 4 Back Width Measurement ............................................................................................................14
Figure 5Chest girth/ chest Bust girth /Bust circumference .........................................................................15
Figure 6Waist girth/ Waist circumference..................................................................................................15
Figure 7 Hip Measurement .........................................................................................................................15
Fig 2.7 Figure 8Armhole girth/ Armhole circumference ......................................................................16
Fig 2.8 Figure 9Thigh Measurement and Knee Measurement....................................................................16
Fig 2.1 Figure 10Back/Back length/ Back waist length/ Nape to Waist and Front/ Front length/ Bodies
length ..........................................................................................................................................................16
Fig 2.2 Figure 11Length of sleeve ..............................................................................................................17

INTRODUCTION OF THE MODULE

Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to
conform to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function
between design and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which
interprets the design in the form of the garment components (Collin). A pattern is flat while
the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly cylindrical
framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to the
pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth
into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.

This module is designed to meet the industry requirement under the Garment Production
occupational standard, particularly for the unit of competency: Develop Basic Pattern.
This module covers the units

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  Take body measurement
 Assess physical characteristics
 measurements and interpret size standards
 block/basic pattern
 Complete
 Work
Learning Objective of the Module
 Apply Plan and prepare for workstation
 Selecting Take body measurement
 Identify and Assess physical characteristics
 Selecting Obtain measurements and interpret size standards
 Identify Prepare block/basic pattern
 Complete Work

Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self-checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise.
 UNIT ONE: - BODY MEASUREMENT
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Reading and interpreting basic sketch
 Understanding workplace procedures and instructions
 Select measuring tools and equipment
 Take body measurement
 Marking body reference points
 Recording fit body measurements
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Read and interpret basic sketch
 Understand workplace procedures and instructions
 Select measuring tools and equipment
 Take body measurement
 Marke body reference points

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 Recording fit body measurements

1.1 Interpreting basic sketch

What is sketching?

Basically, it is about making a quick drawing, a study, which helps you to represent a
design idea. And it has a plethora of applications.

Fashion sketching: people, fashion-looks, and accessories. It is used mainly for illustrations or
magazines, e.g., for brand promotion. It helps designers during the first stages of the creation of
their collections and helps to introduce changes.
Industrial Design sketching: probably the most known and popular branch of sketching.
Obviously, it was created by industrial designers; a good example is car sketching. In this case,
all sketches are made with great speed and confidence.
The type of sketching I teach my students via online courses, Instagram Lives, and YouTube
tutorials is a little different, it’s an interior design sketching, and we usually start by creating a
precise measured perspective with the help of scale rulers. This is followed by freehand
rendering, which may take 1-2 hours, and for this stage, we will be using markers. Once you
have mastered the construction technique, you will develop the ability to produce quick freehand
sketches of interiors

Drawing is the initial step wherein a new product design can be presented and improved on in
terms of proportion, balance, color, shape, etc. Also, it is the cheapest way of presenting our
design idea for approval and refinement. The following are the basic tools for sketching.

1.2 Pattern making material, tools and equipment

Pattern Making Tools:- To work efficiently, the pattern maker must have the proper pattern
making tools and supplies. For making better communication with the workroom and to
minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the pattern maker should know and understand some
terminology related to pattern-making tools.
List of Pattern Making Tools and Their Function:
There are various pattern making tools which are vastly used in the apparel industry have pointed
out in the below with their function:
1. Straight pins,

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 2. Straight pin holder,
3. Scissors,
4. Pencils and pens,
5. Rulers,
6. Curve rules,
7. Hanger hooks or ringers,
8. Pushpins,
9. Magic mend scotch tape,
10. Black twill tape,
11. Notcher,
12. Tracing wheels,
13. Awl,
14. Metal weight,
15. Measuring tape,
16. Tailor’s chalk.
All the above pattern making tools have explained the below with their function:
1. Straight pins: - The dressmaker used it for draping and fitting.
2. Straight pin holder: - Pincushion or magnetic holder which is used for wrist and table.
3. Scissors: - There are different types of scissors such as paper scissors, fabric scissors, etc.
4. Pencils and pens: - Mechanical pencil and sharpener which is used for pattern work. Red and
blue colored pencils are used to identify pattern changes. Black, green, red and blue felt tip pens
for pattern information.

5. Rulers: Tailors square (24 × 14) inch metal ruler with two arms forming a 90® angle that
measures, rules and squares simultaneously. Also used to a triangle with the measurements to
straight lines.
6. Curve rules: - A French curve is one of the several curves used for shaping the armhole and
neckline.
7. Hanger hooks or ringers:- It is used to hold the patterns together for hanging on rods.
8. Pushpins:- Pushpins are used for pattern manipulation. It also prevents pattern slippage
when cutting several plies of paper together.
9. Magic mend scotch tape:- It is used to mend pattern work.
10. Black twill tape:- Black twill tape is used for the placement of style lines on garments.
11. Notched: - It is used to indicate seam allowance, centerline, and also to identify the front and
back of patterns

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 12. Tracing wheels: - It is used to transfer pattern shapes into the paper.
13. Awl: - It is used to indicate the ending of darts, pocket, trim, and buttonhole placements.
14. Metal weight: Metal weight is used to hold the patterns in place for tracing and marking.
15. Measuring tape: -It is used to measure the size of the pattern
16. Tailor’s chalk:- Tailor’s chalk is used for making adjusted seams and style lines.

Name of Tool Image Description of Use

This instrument saves hours of needless labor of

thread marking. It is used to transfer lines or
Tracing wheel
symbols from one pattern to another or from the
This is used to draw perpendicular lines that final pattern to the muslin or fabric.
Set Square
need to be squared out.

It proves useful at the dress designer's table when

establishing curves of reveres, or when adding
Hip curves flares to gored skirt sections. It also is used for
the side seams and the inseams of trousers and
the like.
The Shears is used to cut pattern and fabric,
Shears though the Pattern Maker has 2 separate shears
for both of them

The Pattern Makers companion. It is a soft

Measuring Tape
instrument to measure distances.

Transparent curve is especially valuable for

shaping edges of curved collars, armscyes and
French Curve
necklines. Additional types of these curves are
also valuable to have at the patternmaking table. The awl is used to mark the darts and note the
Awl
main points of a size on a gradation plan.

The notch tool has a cutting blade that slips into

the pattern's edge leaving an 1/8- to 1/4-inch cut-
out. As the patterns are traced the notch cut-outs It is divided into one eighth inch squares. As so
Notcher are marked on the fab-ric. The cutter slashes the many measurements in pattern making are based
fabric at these locations. The seamstress Transparent Ruler upon eighths of an inch, this ruler comes into use
conveniently. It is also valuable when
assembles and stitches the garment parts establishing seam allowances on final Patterns.
following the slashes

1.2 Measuring tools and equipment

1. Tape Measure
2. Pen or pencil
3. Record or Note book
4. Dummy (fit model
1. Tape measure: - It is used to take body measurements. The best are made of flexible,
synthetic material or glass fiber, which will not tear or stretch and having 150 cm length.

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 Figure 1 Tape measur

2. Pen/Pencil: - A pencil is a writing or drawing implement with a solid pigment core encased in
a sleeve, barrel, or shaft that prevents breaking the core or marking a user's hand. Pencils create
marks by physical abrasion, leaving a trail of solid core material that adheres to a sheet of paper
or other surface.

Figure 2Pen/Pencil

3. Record or note book/ Measurement Table:- Immediately record the measurement after it is
read. Call out the measurement continuously until you have recorded the measurement. It helps
to have your pen or pencil and collection sheet. Record the measurement directly onto the sheet.
The more times the measurement is copied, the more chances of error there are. Record
measurements clearly and neatly, the same way every time. Check to make sure it is accurate and
legible. The chart below shows how to write numbers that are easy to read.
4. Male and Female dummy:- Have you ever seen an entertainer make a doll look like it’s
talking? The entertainer is using a dummy — a doll made to look like a person.
A dummy is a type of doll that looks like a person. Entertainers called ventriloquists can make
dummies appear to talk. The automobile industry uses dummies in cars to study how safe cars
are during a crash. A dummy can also be anything that looks real but doesn’t work: a fake.
Actors in a play might use certain props that are dummies, such as a dummy laptop. Dummy is
also an insult used to mean “an ignorant person.”

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 Figure 3Male and Female dummy

1.3 Take body measurement

1.3.1 The horizontal measurement
Measuring the horizontal distance between two points on the surface of earth is one of the most
fundamental surveying operations. It is also one of the most basic engineering measurements. It
can be measured in millimeters, centimeters, meters, and kilometers in SI unit system and in
inches, foot, yard and mile in FPS unit system.
Shoulder width– this measurement taken from the lowest point of the left shoulder to the lowest
point of the right shoulder
Back Width Measurement

Figure 4 Back Width Measurement

1.3.2The circumferential measurement

A body circumference measurement is simply the circumference around a specific area of your
body when measured with a measuring tape. Circumferential measurements are taken at
specified locations on the torso, which are usually level with markers that have been placed at a

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 certain height on the torso. Once a reference marker is selected, a circumferential line is placed
around the torso at this point.
Circumference measurements example

 Neck.
 Chest (at the mid- or nipple-line)
 Waist (at the narrowest part, usually above the navel)
 Hips (with feet together, measure at the widest part of the buttocks)
 Thighs (6 inches above the knee cap)
 Calves.
 Biceps (upper arm)

Chest girth Bust girth /Bust circumference:- The required bust girth increase of 5 inches (from
36 to 41 inches) calls for the waist increment due to bust change (2.11 inches or 5.4cm) to be
added two and a half times to the calculated waist of the woman with a height of 68 inches
(172.7cm) and a bust of 36 inches (91.44cm) or, finally, a woman with a height of 68 inches
(172.7cm) and a bust girth of 41 inches (104.1cm) will have waist of 34.175 inches (86.8cm).
From: Sizing in Clothing, 2007

Figure 5Chest girth/ chest Bust girth /Bust circumference

Waist girth/ Waist circumference – this measurement taken around the narrowest part of the
torso.

Figure 6Waist girth/ Waist circumference

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 Hip Measurement

Figure 7 Hip Measurement

First hip girth/ First hip circumference – this measurement taken around the hip level
where the stomach is fullest.
Second hip girth/ Second hip circumference – this measurement taken around the hip
level where the buttocks are fullest. Measure the widest part of the hips approx. 20 cm
from the waistline
Note that: - There is a 4 inch or 10.16 cm distance between the first and second hip level
Armhole girth/ Armhole circumference – this measurement taken around the armhole
Armhole girth Arm girth

Fig 2.7 Figure 8Armhole girth/ Armhole circumference

Arm girth – this arm.measurement taken around the
Thigh Measurement and Knee Measurement

Fig 2.8 Figure 9Thigh Measurement and Knee Measurement

1.3.2 The vertical measurement
Back/Back length/ Back waist length/ Nape to Waist and Front/ Front length/ Bodies length

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 Fig 2.1 Figure 10Back/Back length/ Back waist length/ Nape to Waist and Front/ Front length/ Bodies length
This measurement taken from the center of the back neck down to the waistline level. This
measurement taken from the neck point or highest point and of shoulder passing over the bust
down to the waistline level.
Length of sleeve –Place the hand on hip so that the arm is bent. Then, measure from the
shoulder bone over the elbow to the desired length in the arms

Fig 2.2 Figure 11Length of sleeve

Trousers’ Out-seam Measurement: - Measure from the top of your pants waistband to the floor
along the outside of your leg.
Length of skirt – this measurement taken from the waist level down to the desired length.
Trousers’ Inseam Measurement: - Measure from the lowest part of your crotch area to the floor.

Figure 12Trousers’ Out-seam Inseam, Measurement and Length of skirt

OPERATION SHEET #1

Operation title: - measuring fit model

Purpose: - enable to develop the skill of measuring fit model

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 Equipment, tools and materials:-
Tools
 Tape measure,
 Pen/pencil and
 Eraser,
 Measure chart,
 Standard chart,
 Dummy
Instruction: - given necessary tools & equipment’s. You are required to perform the following
within 30 minutes
Procedure:-
 Every thing should be in the right place.

 Wear undergarments or bodysuit when measuring.

 Use tape measure that does not stretch.

 Tie a string around your natural waistline.

 Pull the tape snug, but not too tight.

 Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor.

 Take girth measurements, then length measurements.

 Insert two fingers in taking girth measurements

Precautions:-
 Follow body reference points;
 use correct Tools & equipment’s
Quality criteria:-
 Check body reference points
 Take body measurement of fit model accurately
1. Instructions you are required perform the following Prepare necessary tools & equipment’s
according to the given specification.
Measure &Record body measurements of fit model
 Request your Trainer for evaluation &feed back

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 SELF CHECK QUESTION 1
Directions: Read the following questions carefully, answer on the separate sheets
PART I SHORT ANSWER
1. What are body reference points?
2. Write important Tools & equipment’s to measure Fit Model
3. What are the three of parts of the body to be measurement?
4. What is the Relationship Back/Bust/Chest?
5. What is the Back Types?
6. What is body characteristics related with proportions?

PART 2 MULTIPLE CHOICE

Select the best answer for each question. Do this by circling the identifying letter next to your
answer.
1. By which type of measurement should a pattern is constructed
a. Body measurement c. Add-on value
b. Finished measurement d. Seam allowance
2. Body measurement taken from the shoulder down to waist is:
a. Bust depth c. Shirt length
b. Back waist length d. Front waist length
3. The first step in drafting basic pattern is to draw:
a. Diagonal line c. Perpendicular line
b. Horizontal line d. Straight line
4. One of these rules is not needed in taking body measurements.
a. Wear undergarments or bodysuit when measuring
b. Pull the tape snug, but not too tight
c. Wearing hill shoe
d. Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor
5. Which of the following is NOT categorized under circumferential measurement:
a. Arm girth c. Bust point width
b. Bust girth d. Waist circumference
6. Flat-Pattern Designing is

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 a. Working out the pattern of a garment either in the material itself or by cutting a
pattern using the foundation pattern as a basis.
b. Spaced added between the cut edge and stitching line of the fabric.
c. The fold that originates in the waistline.
d. A fold of fabric wider at one end coming to a point of bust at the end which gives
shape to garment.
7. The basis of the foundation pattern is the individual:
a. Figure c. Individuality
b. Personality d. Measurement
8. Which one of the following is the common measurement for any garment?
a. Hip c. Shoulder
b. Bust d. Model length
9. One of the following is NOT measuring tool.
a. Ruler c. Tape measure
b. Pinking shear d. Meter stick
10. Which one of the following is NOT a basis of demographic segmentation of a market?
a. Region c. Age of customer group
b. Sex d. Religion

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 UNIT TWO: - ASSESS PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:

 body characteristics
 fit model
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

 Identifying and comparing body characteristics

 Analyzing fit model

2.1 body characteristics and fit model

What is a Fit Model?

Generally, a fit model is someone who tries on clothing for fashion designers. They check things
like the fit and drape of the fabric, as well as the overall appearance. Fit models are basically live
mannequins, who meet specific height, bust-waist-hip, arm, leg, and other measurement
requirements.
Body characteristics and body measurements effects on sizing .A well-fitted garment adjusts
naturally to the movements of the wearer, is comfortable, presents a pleasing appearance in

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 harmony with the figure, and may contribute to the wearer’s sense of well-being, providing
appositive psychological experience focusing on the individual’s self-image.
Body Shapes or Figures. It refers to the overall structure of the body. This may be of any
combined qualities in height, size and shape. Tall, narrow rectangle or column. This body type is
favored by fashion designers as models with this figure make clothes look great.

Circle (Apple). This silhouette has all the emphasis in the middle of the body, with extra weight
being carried at the waistline

Bottom-heavy triangle (the classic: - Carry too much weight on the hip, with the top half of the
body small in Comparison with the lower half
Top- heavy Triangle. This shape applies to those with who top heavy, with width in the body
and narrowest hips, creating a triangular shaped figure.
SELFE CHECK TWO
PART THREE SHORT ANSWER TYPE
Give short and precise answer for the following questions.
1. What tools are needed in taking body measurements?
2. What body measurements should be taken in drafting a skirt pattern?
3. Why is accurate body measurement important?
4. Explain geographic segmentation of a market.

UNIT THREE: - MEASUREMENTS AND INTERPRET SIZE STANDARDS

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:

 Obtaining measurements
 type of measurements
 Categorizing Sizes
 Recording and passing data
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page. Specifically,
upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Identify drawing Quality criteria.

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  Select drawing Template.

 Draw different line.

 Sketching a pattern piece and garment style.

 Identify and label relevant parts of sketch

3.1 type of measurements

Measurements are the foundation of pattern drafting. They establish basic axes which are natural
to the body. These axes are then used to reconstruct the shape of the body onto the paper. They
must take with complete accuracy

There are several parts of the body to be measured. These are taken in:

 Vertical measurement
 Horizontal measurement

 Circumferential measurement
Simple calculation is a process in which the four fundamental operations maybe involved to
measure accuracy of measurement and to have a well-fitted garment.
3.1.1 Four Fundamental Operations Used for Simple Calculations
1. Addition, 3. Multiplication, and
2. Subtraction, 4. Division

Applications of Simple Calculation

Simple calculation is an easy mathematical application used to determine the accurate
measurement of body parts, length and width of materials, and cost needed to create apparel for
the clients/customers.
3.2 Measurement system
There are two kinds of measurement system as we have learned in the previous lesson. These are
the Metric System, where centimeter is used as standard measure of length by designers of the
new generation, and the English System expressed in inches for basic unit. These systems are
used in measuring the different parts of the body.

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 When we put 1 inch on our Individual Measurement Chart (IMC) it should be accompanied by
its equivalent length of 2.54 centimeters of the Metric System.
3.3 Categorizing Sizes
Table 1 Reference size for children’s or babies wear trouser
1 Height 60 70 80 90 100

2 Waist 40 42 45 47 50
3 Hip 41 44 47 52 58
4 crotch depth 13 14 15 16 17
5 inside leg length 17 22 27 32 38
6 thigh girth 25 26 27 30 32

Table 2 Reference size for children’s or baby’s wear upper body part

1 Height 60 70 80 90 100 110 120 130 140 150 160

Neck base girth Girl 32 33 35 37
2 Boy 23 24 25 26 28 29 30 33 35 37 39
3 Bust girth 42 45 48 50 54 56 60 64 68 74 80
4 Shoulder width 17 20 22 24 27 29 30 32 35 37 40
Girl 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 37
5 Back length Boy 16 18 20 23 25 28 30 32 34 37 42
Table 3Reference size for women’s (height 160-170cm)
N Body measurement SML MED LGE XLGE
o.
1 Size symbol S M L XL
2 Bust 82 88 94 100
3 Waist 62 68 74 80
4 Hip 87 93 99 105
5 back width 32.8 34.4 36 37.6
6 Chest 30.6 32.4 34.2 36
7 Shoulder 11.9 12.3 12.6 13
8 neck size 35.5 37 38.5 40
9 Dart 6.1 7 7.9 8.8
10 top arm 26.4 28.4 30.4 32.4
11 Wrist 15.3 16 16.7 17.4
12 Ankle 23.1 24 24.9 25.8
13 nape to waist 39.2 40 40.8 41.6
14 front shoulder to waist 39.2 40 41 42

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 15 armhole depth 20.2 21 21.8 22.6
16 waist to knee 57.7 58.5 59.3 60.1
17 waist to hip 20.2 20.6 21 21.4
18 waist to floor 102.5 104 105.5 107
19 body rise 27 28 29 30
20 sleeve length 57.4 58.4 59.4 60.4
Extra measurement( garment)
21 cuff size shirt 21 21.5 22 22.5
22 cuff size two piece sleeve 13.5 13.75 14 14.25
23 trouser bottom width 21.5 22 22.5 23

SELF-SHEET 3
Select the best answer for each question. Do this by circling the identifying letter next to
your answer.
1. by which type of measurement should a pattern is constructed
a. Body measurement c. Add-on value
b. Finished measurement d. Seam allowance
2. Body measurement taken from the shoulder down to waist is:
c. Bust depth c. Shirt length
d. Back waist length d. Front waist length
3. One of these rules is not needed in taking body measurements.
e. Wear undergarments or bodysuit when measuring
f. Pull the tape snug, but not too tight
g. Wearing hill shoe
h. Be sure to keep the tape parallel to the floor
4. Which of the following is NOT categorized under circumferential measurement:
c. Arm girth c. Bust point width
d. Bust girth d. Waist circumference
5. Which one of the following is the common measurement for any garment?
c. Hip c. Shoulder
d. Bust d. Model length
Table 5 chose

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 A B

1. Bottom heavy triangle A. Narrow frame

2. Body characteristics and body B. Hourglass.
measurements C. Top- heavy Triangle
3. It is a feminine, well- balanced D. Sway back or large hip
4. create triangular shaped figure E. Sway back & large hip
5. Tall, narrow rectangle or column F. Oval shape
6. It refers to the overall structure of the G. Body Shapes or Figures
body H. Hour glass
7. The suggested design for Hourglass I. Favoured by fashion designers
shape. J. Carry to much weight on the hip
8. Having Thick waist average hips & K. Effects on sizing
Slim legs L. Unfussy jacket in simple line
9. Cause of Difficulty
10. All the emphasis in the middle of the
body,

UNIT FOUR: - BLOCK/BASIC PATTERN

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
Interpreting and clarifying as required Design drawings and specifications
Applying pattern making Principles according to specifications
Methods and formulas
Producing basic garment Pattern
Pattern pieces
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page. Specifically,
upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

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  Identify drawing Quality criteria.

 Select drawing Template.

 Draw different line.

 Sketching a pattern piece and garment style.

 Identify and label relevant parts of sketch

4.1 Interpreting Design drawings and specifications

Pattern making is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or
more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function between design and
production. Patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a
two dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort. Before
commencing developing a pattern, you should interpret and analyze the design of the given
garment. Unless you interpret each part, step by step, your final pattern might get mistake. For
example interpret the following design Blouse /shirt, skirt trouser

Blouse/shirt

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 Front
Fig 13 blouse front and back

Front and back

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 4.2 Pattern making Principles according to specifications
The development of a garment comprises of different process. Fit is the most important factor
leading to the final acceptance or rejection of a garment. Fit must be designed into the original
pattern through subtleties in the pattern that provide fullness unobtrusively at appropriate
locations to accommodate body bulges in a flattering manner (Hudson). Good customized fit is
dependent on the pattern drafting incorporating various shapes and proportions of the individual
customer. With the onset of the Industrial Revolution, standardized patterns were essential to the
success of ready-to-wear clothing
Pattern making is an art. It is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform
to one or more curves of the human figure. Pattern making is a bridge function between design
and production. A sketch can be turned into a garment via a pattern which interprets the design in
the form of the garment components (Cooklin).
A pattern is flat while the body is not. The body has height, width and depth. Within this roughly
cylindrical framework there are a series of secondary curves and bulges, which are of concern to
the pattern maker. Darts are the basis of all pattern making. They convert the flat piece of cloth
into a three dimensional form, which fits the bulges of the body.
A patternmaker typically makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two
dimensional fashion illustration. The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern
making, fit and design are based. The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing.
It is a simple pattern that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben
and Ward).

The flat patternmaking method is widely used in the ready-to-wear market because it is fast and
accurate (Aldrich).

Principles of pattern making contain information about the three main principles:
 Dart manipulation
 Added fullness.
 Contouring.
 Understanding the different ways of making a pattern, as a tailor, we select the block pattern for
each style or components of a garment. For example, the block patterns of a basic blouse, skirt
and trouser are
1) Front bodies,
2) Back bodies,
3) The sleeve,
4) The back skirt,
5) The front skirt,
6) Front panel and
7) Back panel.
4.3 Block/ Basic pattern
As apparel maker we will make a complete pattern for some basic garments out of the
following styles:
1. Garments covering the upper or the whole body:
2. Garments covering the lower body only:
Blouse measurements

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 length
 Bust girth
 Waist girth
 Hip girth
 Sleeve length
 Back height/Armhole depth
 Back length (back neck to waist)
 Hip depth (waist to hip)
 Neck circumference
 Armhole/ Arm hole
circumference
 Shoulder/ Shoulder width
 Front Length/ Front waist length
 Chest width/ Front chest width
 Back chest width
 Bust depth
 Bust point
 Distance
Skirt measurements needed
 Waist
 Hip
 Waist to hip and
 Skirt length.
Measurements should be given to construct the basic Trouser:
 Waist
 Hip/Seat
 Body rise / Crotch depth (Including waist band depth)
 Bottom opening
 Waist band depth= 4 cm (depend on style) Inseam/ in leg
4.3.1 Pattern pieces and information including
 grain lines,
 notches,
 Grain line is a line drawn from end to end on each Pattern piece to indicate how the
pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric
 Notches/ Balance marks: Marks made on edges of pattern pieces that show
Pattern information: all information on each pattern pieces including name of the pattern
components, the final measurement which indicate the distance with arrow, the number of
pattern cut ,grain line, cutting line seam allowance ,notches ,functional openings. Pattern is
finalized and checked to ensure accuracy, completeness and compliance to design specifications.
Final patterns are directed to next production process.
4.3.2 Checking of pattern pieces
Pattern pieces are checked for accuracy, including:-
 seam allowances
 ease allowances
 seam match
 hems and functional openings
4.3 Methods and formulas

Methods of Pattern Making

 Drafting
  Draping
 Flat paper patternmaking
Drafting:
It involves measurements derived from sizing systems or accurate measurements taken on a
person, dress or body form. Measurements for chest, waist, hip and so on, and ease allowances
are marked on paper and construction lines are drawn to complete the pattern. Drafting is used to
create basic, foundation or design patterns.
Draping:
It involves the draping of a two dimensional piece of fabric around a form, conforming to its
shape, creating a three-dimensional fabric pattern. This muslin is transferred to paper to be used
as a final pattern (Armstrong). Ease allowances for movement are added to make the garment
comfortable to wear. Advantage of draping is that the designer can see the overall design effect
of the finished garment on the body form before the garment piece is cut and sewn. However, it
is more expensive and time consuming than flat pattern making.
Flat Pattern Making:
It involves the development of a fitted basic pattern with comfort ease to fit a person or body
form. A slipper is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the
body with just enough ease for movement and comfort (Shoben and Ward). Five basic pattern
pieces are used for women’s clothing. They include a snug-fitting bodice front and bodice back
with darts and a basic neckline, a sleeve and a fitted skirt front and back with darts. However, as
fashion changes frequently women’s styles fluctuate frequently. These basic stoppers are then
manipulated to create fashions.

A basic slipper has no seam allowances, which facilitates its manipulations to various styles. It
has no design interest, only construction lines are marked on it. It is necessary that the basic
structure of a sloper should be such that adjustments can be introduced easily. For a good pattern
making, accurate measurements are of utmost importance.

Self-cheek 4
PART 1 CHOOSE
I. Choose and answer the following questions.
1. _______is used to create basic foundation or design patterns.
A. Pattern C. paper

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 B. Draping D. Drafting
2. It is a simple patter n that fits the body with just enough ease for movement and comfort.
A. Modeling C. Drawing tools
B. Measurement D. Flat pattern
3. It used to shaping curve line
A. French curve C. Ruler
B. Set square D. Tape measure

1. It is used to transfer lines or symbols from one pattern to another.

A. Pattern paper C. Pencil
B. Tracing wheel D. Set square
2. The pattern making tools which used to make hip line is
A. Tape measure C. French curve
B. Transparent ruler D. Hip curve
PART 2 SHORT ANSWER
II. Short answer
1. What is Pattern making in general? (2)
2. What is the use of Set Square during pattern making? (1)
3. Write the three pattern making method.(3)
4. Write the pattern making tools and materials.(4 )
Directions: Answer all the questions listed below.

1. Write the three ways of making a pattern (3 points)

2. What is Drape pattern?( 2 points)
3. It is a foundation pattern constructed to fit an average figure.( 1 point)
4. Which pattern is most expensive as it utilizes more fabric?( 1 point)
5. Write the measurement part of skirt ( 4 points)
6. Write the measurement part of shirt ( 14 points)

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 UNIT FIVE: - COMPLETE WORK
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 pattern information’s
 Production patterns to next production process.
 File and store finished pattern.

This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page. Specifically,
upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Apply pattern information’s
 Ready production patterns to next production process.
 File and store finished pattern.

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 Pattern making is the art of manipulating and shaping a flat piece of fabric to conform to one or more curves of
the human figure.

5.1 Producing basic garment Pattern, pattern information’s and finished pattern.
Pattern making is a bridge function between design and production. A patternmaker typically
makes a pattern from a flat sketch with measurements or a two dimensional fashion illustration.
The basic pattern is the very foundation upon which pattern making, fit and design are based.
The basic pattern is the starting point for flat pattern designing. It is a simple pattern that fits the
body with just enough ease for movement and comfort
PROCEDURES:-Front & Back Part of Skirt
STEP 1
1. Square down waist to hip (A-B) and skirt length (A-C)
2. Square across ½ hip + 1,5 (A-D)
3. Square across ½ waist + 1 and mark on upper line (E)
4. Enhance 1,0 cm up (f) after splitting ½ by ½ (i.e. AF=FD)

Fig 6 Front & Back Part of Skirt

Pay attention to the difference between waist and hip measurement in construction:
In the given example:
½ waist +1cm = 36 + 1= 37 cm

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 ½ hip + 1.5 cm = 48.5 + 1= 50 cm
Difference: 13 cm
The following possibilities of distribution are possible:
- 1 dart front pattern
- 1-2 darts back pattern (depends on calculated total difference >13 and body shape)
- Hip curves (1/2 front and ½ back)
Recommendation:
- ½ value of total difference + (0-1 cm) = hip curves
- Dart front: 1,5 - 2, 5 cm
- Dart back: max 3-4 cm -otherwise second dart necessary
Please check body shape!
Here in this example the following distribution is chosen:
 Hip curve: 8 cm
 Dart front: 2 cm=13
 Dart back: 3 cm
As per the above concepts, make the following:
1. Adjust waist at side seam, draw in symmetric hip curves
2. Draw in shaped waist lines
3. Dart front: 6-8 cm from side seam
4. Dart back: ½ - ½

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 Fig. 6.1 Basic skirt construction
STEP 3 Finish your pattern by tracing from the block.

Fig. 4 Basic skirt pattern

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 PRECAUTIONS:  Take care on taking body measurements and
analysis of help measurements since ones your
measurement is wrong, you can NOT find the
correct pattern for the specific size.
 Use appropriate drawing instruments when you are
making your pattern.

QUALITY  The measurements on your pattern should confirm

CRITERIA: with your analyzed measurements.
 The pattern should look like accurate, neat, and
complete.
 Necessary information and symbols should be
written on each piece of pattern.

5.2 Classification and types of skirts

In general, skirts can be divided into three categories:
5.2.1. According to the length: minis skirt; short skirt; knee length skirt; midi skirt; long skirt
and floor skirt.

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 5.2.2. According to the silhouette: ‘H ’line, ‘A’ line and ‘Y ’line.

6.2.3. According to the waistband of skirt: install waist skirt, beltless skirt, joint waist skirt,
low -waist skirt and high-waist skirt.

5.2.4 Skirts can be divided into four categories according to the shape: straight skirt,
bias skirt, pleated skirt and flare tiers skirt.

Operation Sheet – 5 Basic skirt Pattern

PURPOSE: enable to prepare basic/block skirt pattern accurately

EQUIPMENT, TOOLS AND MATERIALS: -
TOOLS
 scissors,
 ruler and square rule
 marker pens,

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  hole punch,
 pins
 Hip curve
CONDITIONS OR SITUTATIONS FOR THE OPERATION: - given necessary tools &
equipment’s. You are required to perform the following within20 minutes
PROCEDURE:-
 Interpret & clarify design drawing and specifications
 Apply principle of pattern making
 Document and methods formulas
 Specify measurements to produce pattern
 Check pattern pieces for accuracy, including seam allowance, seam match ,hem
&functional openings
PRECAUTIONS:-
Planning &preparing tools &equipment’s for making basic skirt pattern
QUALITY CRITERIA:-
(1.) Design specifications
Example
1) Size Selection: 160/66A
So, Height: 160cm
Waist girth: 66cm (without ease)
Somatotype: ‘A’
Hip girth: 90cm (without ease)
Basic blouse/shirt
 Chest girth: twice the distance across the shirt measured below the bottom of the
armholes when the shirt is buttoned.
 Back length: the distance from the center of the base of the collar to the bottom of the
shirt.
 Front length: the distance from the neck point (the point where the yoke meets the
collar) to the bottom of the shirt.
 Sleeve length: the distance from the shoulder seam to the sleeve end.
 Yoke length: the distance between the two shoulder seams measured along the center of
the yoke.

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A F G G F A
H H B'
B Neck depth
C Chest line I I' C

D Bust line J J' D

D1 L L' D2

N N
E M Figure length K K M E

Sleeve Pattern:-Cut along point 0, 10”, 11, 12”, 4, 5, 5”, 2”, 6”, 6, 3, 9”, 8, 7” and up 0.
Production pattern Sleeve: - Use1 cm seam allowance all sides on ready pattern (cut 2 pcs.)

7’’ 0 10”
7 10 11
9” 8 12’’ 12
3 9 1 4

6 2 5
6” 2” 5”

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 PRECAUTI  Take care on taking measurements of armhole on the bodice pattern.
ONS:  Amendment should be taken after constructing the sleeve.
QUALITY 1. The measurement of sleeve head circumference should be equal to
CRITERIA: armhole + 1-1.5 cm..
2. The pattern should look like accurate, neat, and complete.
3. Necessary information and symbols should be written on the finished
pattern.

Operation Sheet 5.1 Basic Bodies Block Pattern

PURPOSE: enable to prepare basic/block Bodies pattern accurately

EQUIPMENT, TOOLS AND MATERIALS: -

TOOLS
 scissors,
 ruler and square rule
 marker pens,
 hole punch,
 pins
 French curve
CONDITIONS OR SITUTATIONS FOR THE OPERATION: - given
necessary tools & equipment’s. You are required to perform the following
within20 minutes
PROCEDURE:-
 Interpret & clarify design drawing and specifications
 Apply principle of pattern making
 Document and methods formulas
 Specify measurements to produce pattern
 Check pattern pieces for accuracy, including seam
allowance, seam match ,hem &functional openings
PRECAUTIONS:-

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 Planning &preparing tools &equipment’s for making basic skirt
pattern
 Measurements required for structure drawing of the trousers
Waist girth: 68cm (with 2cm ease)
Hip girth: 98cm (with 8cm ease)
Table 4Measurements required for structure drawing of the trousers

Position Trouser Waist Hip Crotch Trousers

s s length girth(W) girth(H) depth bottom
(L) width
Size 102cm 68cm 98cm 29cm 22cm

3. Sequence of operation
1) Draw framework of the front and the back piece
Front (1) Basic front side seam line:
(2) Bottom line:
(3) Length line (waist line): trousers length- waistband width (4cm).
(4) Crotch depth line (thigh line): crotch depth- waistband width (4cm).
(5) Hip line: one third the measurement from the waist line to the crotch depth line.
(6) Knee line: one second the measurement from the hip line to the bottom line, and 4cm up.
(7) Front crotch line: H/4-1cm
(8) Front crotch width line: 0.4H/10
(9) Front side seam point: 0.7cm inward from the side seam.
(10) Crease line: [0.4H/10+ (H/4-1cm)-0.7cm) divided by 2.
(11) Basic inseam line:
Back
Extend the bottom line, waist line, hip line, crotch depth line and the knee line.
(12) Basic side seam line:
(13)Hip size: H/4+1cm:
(14) Back crotch line: 15:3.
(15) Back crotch width line: first 1cm down from the front crotch depth line, then measure
H/10.
(16) Back crease line: haft the measurement from the side seam to inseam line.

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 (17) Basic inseam line.

2) Draw outlines of the trousers

(1)Up line of waist: 2.5cm
(2) Front waist size: W/4-1cm+4.5cm (for pleats or darts).
(3) Front bottom width: bottom width-2cm
(4) Front knee width: connect the mid-point of front crotch width to the front bottom width
point, the line intersect the knee line, measure from the intersection point to crease line.
(5) Back waist size: W/4+1cm+4cm (for darts).
(6) Back bottom width: bottom width +2cm.
(7) Back knee width: front knee width +4cm.
(8) Construct two pleats on the front waistline width 2.5cm.
(9) Construct two darts on the back waistline: Divide the back waistline into three parts, mark
points of center dart line, width 2 cm, length 10cm and 11cm .

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 Front Draw the side seam ( curving inwards 0.3cm), the waistline (with slight curve), the front
crotch curve, the inseam line (curving inwards 0.3cm) and curved the hemline and then move it
up 0.5cm on the crease line.
Back Draw side seam (curving inwards 0.4cm), the waistline, the back crotch (with curve),
inseam line (curving inwards 1cm) and the curved hemline, then move it down 0.5cm on the
crease line.

4) Draw parts of the trousers

(1) Waistband: length=W/2+1.5cm (for right fly width), Width=3cm
(2) The left fly, right fly and the belt loop
(3) Pocket, pocket stay

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 Self-check 5.2

1 clarify about the classification of skirt?(5)

2. How to check finished pattern pieces?

Lap Test 5 Practical demonstration

Name: ___________________ Date: ________________

Time started: ______________ Time finished: __________

Develop a complete pattern as per given measurements and diagrams.

Given Specification

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 Table 5 measurements of skirt and pant

Body measurement
No. Description in cm.
1 Waist circumference 74
2 Hip circumference 92
3 Waist to Hip 18
4 Skirt length 54
Given Design
Front View Back View

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