ALMOND FLOWERS

Almond Flowers EXPRESSION

EXPRESSION1 FIBER
FIBER ARTS
ARTS Expression Fiber Arts
 -Almond Flowers-

I imagined myself walking in a garden full of owering almond trees. I felt myself wearing something that waves with
the breeze. So free, just like the endless petals of an almond ower going back and forth with the breeze.
That initiated in my mind the idea of making a blouse. Oversized, open, light, smooth, and beautiful!

I decorated the neckline and the belt with the cluster stitch, along with some of the Tunisian stitch. The cluster stitch
gives the simulation of almonds, while the Tunisian stitch adds distinctively to the design. Almonds and their owers
symbolize strength together with beauty. To add calmness, I made sure the design is smooth, completing the
combination of emotions.

WARDAH MHD CHANDI AGEE

Designer Expression Fiber Arts

Ravelry: WardahCrochet www.expression berarts.com
[email protected]

We appreciate you downloading our pattern! We pour tons of time and love into each one and hope you enjoy it.
Should you have any questions, please contact [email protected] for assistance.

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 - DETAILS-
SIZES: Bust Circumference (Finished Circumference) - Small: 28-30’’ (32”), Medium:
32-34” (36”), Large: 36-38” (40”), XL: 40-42” (44"), 2XL: 44-46” (48”).
Top is designed to be worn with 2-4” of positive ease.
The sample shown is a size M on a 34” bust. It has 2” of positive ease and was cropped 10
rows shorter (with fewer neckline and belt repeats). This sample used 1402 yards total. DIMENSIONS

Expression Fiber Arts Alpaca Silk Lace

Shown in color: Museum
Yardage/Meterage per size: 1580 (1715, 1860, 2010, 2165) yds / 1445 (1568,
1701, 1838, 1980) m
3 (3, 4 , 4, 4) skeins needed. MATERIALS
If that color isn’t available, any from this category will work.

US Steel Hook Size 2.50 mm and US Steel Hook Size 4 (2.00 mm) or size
needed to obtain gauge
Note: Since crochet hooks vary so much in size and number by brand, use
HOOK
the millimeter size to help you determine the correct size.

Tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers

TOOLS

25 sts and 13 rows = 4" (10 cm) in dc st with size 4 (2.00 mm) hook

GAUGE

Intermediate to Advanced: This pattern is for those who feel comfortable

with crocheting and have made a few projects, using various skills and
techniques. Skills/concepts include multi-step stitches, repeats, chart
reading, seaming, and some new skills in Tunisian Crochet.
SKILL LEVEL

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 - ABBREVIATIONS-

** repeat this section

2dc-inc 2dc in the same stitch

ch chain

dc double crochet

dec decrease

Fdc foundation double crochet

Fsc foundation single crochet

inc increase

lp(s) loop(s)

rm remove marker

RS right/front side of work

sc single crochet

sk skip

sl st slip stitch

sp(s) space(s)

st(s) stitch(es)

tr triple crochet

WS wrong/back side of work

yo yarn over

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 - PATTERN-
NOTES

• Please read through the entire pattern before beginning to ensure an understanding of the
stitches and construction.
• While Tunisian Crochet is used in one motif on the trim, you do not need a special hook. You can
use any crochet hook that does not expand past its labeled size within the rst inch.
• The Ssc counts as a dc throughout the pattern.
• Gauge is important because the neckline should t the body of the blouse. Check frequently that
your piece will match the listed (blocked) gauge.
• This pattern consists of three parts, which are stitched together by single crochet stitches.
• Click here to watch a tutorial on how to crochet the border.

SPECIAL STITCHES

3dc-dec: Yo, insert hook into indicated CL (this is the ch-1 that closes the CL), and draw up a lp; yo
and draw through 2 lps; yo, insert hook in the ch3-sp and draw up a lp; yo and draw through 2 lps;
yo, insert hook in the next CL, and draw up a lp; yo and draw through 2 lps; yo and draw through all
4 lps.

Ssc (stacked single crochet): Sc into the indicated stitch; ch1. Locate the sc you just made for the
rst part of this stitch. Sc into this sc by entering from right to left through the two legs that are
facing you (NOT by working through the top two loops as you would normally do). This will be
similar in height and appearance to a dc and will count as a dc throughout the pattern.

Cluster (CL): (yo, insert hook in speci ed st and draw up a lp) 4 times; yo and draw through all 9 lps
on hook.

Shell: (CL, ch3, CL) into indicated st.

Reverse Single Crochet: Insert your hook into the indicated stitch; yo and pull up a loop, keeping
both loops slightly loose. Now rotate your hook 360° by turning the tip towards you and downward,
then slightly right to nally sweep around the back of the 2 stitches currently on the hook. You have
now twisted the stitches, and your hook should be back to the usual position. Yo and pull through
both loops.

Tunisian extended full stitch (TEFS): Insert hook in space between vertical bars and pull up a loop,
then ch-1 before moving to the next stitch.

Basic return pass: (yo, pull through 2 loops) to end of row.

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 PATTERN

Part 1: Body Note that following the Body, the belt will still
Begin with larger hook. add approx. 3" to total length. Adjustments
may also affect the number of rows needed to
Row 1 (RS): Fsc 71 (76, 81, 86, 91) turn. If you work for the neckline trim.
crochet tightly, you may want to go up a hook
size for the cast on. The neckline should be Each repeat will increase your dc stitch count
able to stretch a bit past nished size. by 8. At the end of Row 52 (54, 56, 58, 60), you
Alternatively: Ch 72 (77, 82, 87, 92). Sc into the will have 467 (488, 509, 525, 541) dc, 4 Shells,
second ch from the hook and each ch across, and 4 ch-1 sp.
turn. [71 (76, 81, 86, 91) sc]
The Border:
Row 2 (WS): Ssc (counts as a dc here and Attach yarn with a sl st in the corner (shown as
throughout the pattern) in rst st; dc into each a blue circle labeled with start in the diagram
of the next 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) sts; Shell in the next below). Make 2 sc in the rst st.
st; ch1, *dc into each of the next 17 (18, 19, 20, Sc evenly along each at side of Body. At
21) sts; Shell in the next st; ch1.* Repeat from corners marked with the red circles, make 3 sc.
*to* 2 more times; dc into each of the next 8 (9, At the last corner marked with the blue circle
10, 11, 12) sts, turn. [67 (72, 77, 82, 87) dc, 4 (end), make 2 sc. Sl st in the neckline after the
Shells, 4 ch-1 sp] last st. Fasten off.
Weave in the tail from the beginning to even
Row 3: Ssc in the rst st; dc into each st to 1 dc out any neckline stitches in the rst row.
before next shell; *2dc-inc in next st; (sk ch-1
sp) Shell in ch-3 sp of next Shell; ch1, 2dc-inc in
the next st; dc into each st to 1 dc before next
shell.* Repeat from *to* 2 times; 2dc-inc in next
st; Shell in ch-3 sp of next Shell; ch1, 2dc-inc in
the next st; dc into each st to end, turn. (75 [80,
85, 90, 95] dc, 4 Shells, 4 ch-1 sp)

Part 2: The Neckline (using smaller hook)

See chart on page 12.

Row 1 (RS): Fdc 20, turn. (20 dc)

Row 2 (WS): Ssc in the rst st; dc into each of

Rows 4-52 (54, 56, 58, 60): Repeat Row 3 an the next 7 dc; tr into each of the next 3 sts;
additional 49 (51, 53, 55, 57) times or until place marker in second tr; dc into each of the
Body is desired length. next 9 dc, turn. (17 dc, 3 tr)
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Row 3: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 2, sk 2 sts, Shell in Row B: Forward Pass: TEFS (Tunisian Extended
the next st; ch 12, sk 13 sts, Shell in the next st; Full Stitch) in the sp between the rst two
ch 2, sk 1 st, dc in the last st, turn. (2 dc, 2 vertical bars and in each sp (square) across (7
Shells, 16 ch) loops on hook).

Row 4: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 1, Shell in the ch3-

sp of the Shell in previous row; ch 12, Shell in
ch3-sp of the next Shell; ch 3, dc in the last st,
turn. (2 dc, 2 Shells, 16 ch)

Row 5: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 2, Shell in ch3-sp

of the next Shell; ch 12, Shell in ch3-sp of the
next Shell; ch 2, dc in the last st, turn. (2 dc, 2
Shells, 16 ch)

NOTE: When making the CL, work around the

ch-12 strands made in the previous 3 rows.
Insert hook into indicated stitch; pull up a loop,
ensuring yarn pulled through stitch goes
around all strands so that they are enclosed in
all loops of the CL.
Row 6: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 1, Shell in ch3-sp
of the next Shell; ch 6, CL in the second tr Return Pass: (yo, pull through 2 lps) 6 times.
(marked in Row 2); rm.
Ch 1, turn. Leave remaining sts in the row Rows C-D: Repeat Row B. Put a marker in the
unworked. It will be completed after the last square of Row D.
rhombus is made in the following rows.
Turn work to continue working Row 6.
Using Tunisian Crochet, we will make a Shell in ch3-sp of the next Shell; ch 3, dc in the
rhombus using the six chains that preceded last st, turn. (2 dc, 2 Shells, 4 ch, rhombus with
the CL just made (not the nal ch-1 used to Tunisian Extended Full Stitches)
close the CL).
The chart on the top right shows the stitches Row 7: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 2, Shell in ch3-sp
charted in Tunisian crochet. of the next Shell; ch 12, Shell in ch3-sp of the
next Shell; ch 2, dc in the last st, turn. (2 dc, 2
Row A: Forward Pass: Sk the CL and ch-1 used Shells, 16 ch)
to close it. (Insert hook into next ch and pull up
a lp, ch 1 on that lp) 6 times (7 loops on hook). Rows 8-9: Repeat Rows 4-5.
Return Pass: (yo, pull through 2 lps) 6 times. Row 10 is the same as Row 6 except the CL is
(Don't allow sts to become stretched out made into the top of the previous rhombus
before they are worked). The 7 loops on hook (the location will be marked using a stitch
that ended the Forward Pass create 6 spaces marker if following directions).
(squares) following the Return Pass. The rst The CL is still made around the 3 strands of
square may be a bit more dif cult to see, so be ch-12 from previous 3 rows.
sure not to miss it in the next row.
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 Row 10: Ssc in the rst dc; ch 1, Shell in ch3-sp Row 110 (114, 118, 126, 130): Ssc in the rst
of the next Shell; ch 6, CL in the marked sp dc; ch 1, Shell in ch3-sp of the next Shell; ch 6,
between vertical bars at the top of previous CL in the marked sp between the two vertical
rhombus; rm. bars at the top of the rhombus; ch 6, Shell in
Ch 1, turn. Leave remaining sts in the row ch3-sp of the next Shell; ch 3, dc in the last st,
unworked. It will be completed after the turn. (2 dc, 2 Shells, 1 Cluster, 16 ch)
rhombus is made in the following rows.
Row 111 (115, 119, 127, 131): Ssc in the rst
As in Row 6, we will make a rhombus using the dc, dc into each of the next 2 ch; 3dc-dec (see
six chains that preceded the CL just made (not Special Stitches); dc into each of the next 5 ch;
the nal ch-1 used to close the CL). tr in the ch; tr in the CL; tr in the ch; dc into
each of the next 5 ch; 3dc-dec; dc in the ch; dc
Row A: Forward Pass: Sk the CL and ch-1 used in the last st, turn. (15 dc, 3 tr, 2 3dc-dec)
to close it. (Insert hook into next ch and pull up
a lp, ch 1 on that lp) 6 times (7 loops on hook). Row 112 (116, 120, 128, 132): Ssc in the rst
Return Pass: (yo, pull through 2 lps) 6 times. dc; dc into each st across, turn. (20 dc)

Row B: Forward Pass: TEFS (Tunisian Extended The Border:

Full Stitch) in the sp between the rst two Following the arrows and blue circles in the
vertical bars and in each sp (square) across (7 diagram below, sc evenly around, placing 3 sc
loops on hook). in each of the four corners. Fasten off and
Return Pass: (yo, pull through 2 lps) 6 times. weave in ends.

Rows C-D: Repeat Row B. Put a marker in the Part 3: The Belt (Using smaller hook)
last square of Row D.

Turn work to continue working Row 10.

Shell in ch3-sp of the next Shell; ch 3, dc in the
last st, turn. (2 dc, 2 Shells, 4 ch, rhombus with
Tunisian Extended Full Stitches).

The number of repeats below can be adjusted

to change the length of the piece. Repeat Rows
7-10 until slightly less than desired length, and
then proceed to instructions for Row 110 (114,
118, 126, 130). Note that following the Body,
the belt will still add approx. 3" to total length.
Adjustments may also affect the number of
rows needed to work for the neckline trim.

Rows 11-106 (110, 114, 122, 126): Repeat

Rows 7-10 another 24 (25, 26, 28, 29) times.

Rows 107 (111, 115, 123, 127) -109 (113,

117, 125, 129): Repeat Rows 7-9.
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Rows 1-10: Repeat Rows 1-10 of The Neckline. Continue to sl st across to end. Continue on to
The Border section.
Rows 11-74 (82, 94, 102, 114): Repeat Rows The photo below shows a seamed belt.
7-10 of The Neckline another 16 (18, 21, 23,
26) times.

Rows 75 (83, 95, 104, 115) - 77 (85, 97, 105,

117): Repeat Rows 7-9 of The Neckline.

Row 78 (86, 98, 106, 118): Repeat Row 110

(114, 118, 126, 130) of The Neckline.

The sample was made using yarn buttons and

chain closures. As an alternative, you could
The Border: (Using smaller hook)
seam the belt closed. If you choose this
The bottom of the belt (denoted by A in the
alternative, skip the bold instructions in the
photo above) is the edge with smaller chain
following row.
spaces.
Row 79 (87, 99, 107, 119): Ssc in the rst dc;
Round 1:
dc into each of the next 2 ch; 3dc-dec (see
Seamed belt:
Special Stitches); ch-20 tightly (this is the rst
Starting at blue dot, sc evenly around bottom
loop closure for the buttons), sl st into same st;
of Belt; sl st to rst st.
dc into each of the next 5 ch; tr in the ch; tr in
Starting at red dot, sc evenly around top of
the CL; ch-20 tightly, sl st into same st; tr in the
Belt; sl st to rst st.
ch; dc into each of the next 5 ch; 3dc-dec;
Button-closure belt:
ch-20 tightly, sl st into same st; dc in the next
Starting at blue dot, sc evenly around entire
ch; dc in the last st, turn. (15 dc, 3 tr, 2 3dc-dec,
Belt; sl st to rst st.
3 ch-20 loops)

Round 2: Working only around bottom of belt,

Row 80 (88, 100, 108, 120): Repeat Row 112
Reverse Single Crochet in each st around,
(116, 120, 128, 132) of The Neckline.
ensuring the decorative edge is facing
outward.
If you choose to follow the alternative seaming
If you seamed the belt, sl st in the rst st of the
belt closure, work the following instructions. If
round.
making the button and loop closure, skip to
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
The Border instructions.

Connect Neckline with the Body:

Alternative Belt Closure: (Using larger hook)
The Neckline is attached to the Body on the
(Connect the two ends of the belt together.)
wrong side of pieces with single crochet.
Place the pieces with their wrong sides facing
Lay both the Body and Neckline out at, so the
each other and the right sides of the pieces
wrong sides are facing up. Using pins or
facing out to you as you connect them. Using
locking stitch markers, pin the Neckline in
the back loop of the side facing you and the
place along and around the edge of the Body.
front loop of the other side, insert hook
underneath both of these loops and make sl st.
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 Connect Belt with the Body:

Front:
The Belt is attached to the Body on the wrong
side with single crochet. Lay both the Body
(with Neckline attached) and Belt at, so the
wrong side is facing up. Fold the sides of the
Body, so the bottom corners of the Neckline
meet in the center. Line up the center seam of
the Belt to where the bottom corners of the
Neckline meet. Set in place with a pin or
locking stitch marker to hold in place.

Photo below shows example of Medium size

(45 sts attached on each side of center).

From both sides of the Neckline and Body,

count back 43 (45, 47, 49, 51) sts from the
center. Mark these sts with st markers. Join yarn
with a sl st in the front loop of the Body and
back loop of the Belt at marked point on right.

Seamed belt:
Working into the front loop of sts on the Body
(or Neckline as you come to it) and back loop
of the sts on the Belt, sc 86 (90, 94, 98, 102) sts.
Fasten off, and weave in ends.
(Top photo shows where neckline trim is to be
attached). Button-closure belt:
Working into the front loop of sts on the Body
Join yarn with a sl st in the corner as labeled (or Neckline when you come to it) and back
Start. Working into the front loop of sts on the loop of the sts on the Belt, sc towards center, to
Neckline and back loop of the sts on the Body, corner where Neckline ends; continue to sc
sc through both to end (in the directions shown around just the short edge of belt, stopping at
by the arrows). Fasten off, and weave in all bottom of belt. Sl st to smooth transition.
ends. Attach yarn at bottom of short edge of Belt on
opposite side (this will make sts face outwards).
Sc up to corner where Neckline ends. Now
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 continue in same manner (connecting front 3 loops; sc in next st.* Repeat from *to* 4 more
loop of Body/Neckline and back loop of Belt times.
sts) until you reach the second marker. Fasten
off, and weave in ends. Round 4: *Insert hook into next st and pull up a
loop) x2; yo and pull through all 3 loops.*
Back: Repeat from *to* 4 more times.
Turn piece over to connect the back (with WS Insert hook into a st across from current st and
still facing out). Line up the center of the Belt sc. Cut long tail for weaving, and pull yarn
with the center stitch of the Body (in the 59th through.
(61st, 63rd, 66th, 68th) st on the middle section
of the Body). Pin in place with a pin or locking Thread the end of the yarn tail at bottom of
stitch marker. button. Weave back and forth through stitches
and the yarn inside the button to secure the
Count back 27 (29, 31, 32, 34) Body sts from end. Do not cut.
marked center. Join yarn with a sl st in the front Thread the other tail (at the side of the button),
loop of the Body and back loop of the Belt at and pull it around the outside to the bottom;
this marked point. Working into the front loop weave it through the bottom a few times to
of sts on the Body and back loop of the sts on secure.
the Belt, sc 55 (59, 63, 65, 69) sts. Fasten off,
and weave in ends. Placement of buttons should be across from
the loops already on one side of Belt. Two
Buttons: (Non-seamed Belt) buttons will be placed at the ends of the Shell
rows, and 1 across from the center CL (keep at
Round 1: Using the smaller hook, begin with a least a sc row of space between the end of
Magic Ring. Sc 8 around both the ring and tail. each button and the end of the Belt).
Join to the rst sc with a sl st. Do not pull the Use 1 of the tails to secure one side of the
ring closed completely! button to the Belt. Weave around sts of the
Belt, each time catching yarn inside the button
Round 2: Working through the center of the (through the bottom) and secure the rest of it.
Magic Ring and around the sts in the previous Be sure to attach about 2/3 of the bottom
round, sc 12. Join to the rst st with a sl st. button circumference, but leave the outer edge
free so the chain loops don't detach too easily.
Round 3: Working through the center of the When button is secure, weave both tails to WS
Magic Ring and around the sts in the previous of Belt, close to each other but with at least 1
2 rounds, sc 16 evenly around. Belt st between them. Knot the 2 strands to
each other twice (but don't cinch the Belt). Cut
Round 4: Insert hook into next st ( rst st from yarn.
previous row) and sc. *(Insert hook into next st
and pull up a loop) x2; yo and pull through all Repeat for all 3 yarn buttons.

FINISHING

Weave in remaining yarn ends. Wet blocking to nished dimensions is recommended. This will
open up the stitches, keep the fabric light, and expand the size of the piece to desired dimensions.
Trim all ends. FINALLY, enjoy wearing your new elegant blouse!
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 Neckline (Belt)

S: 107-112 (75- 80)

M: 111-116 (83-88)
L: 115-120 (97-102)
XL: 123-128 (105-110)
2XL: 127-132 (117-122)

*If working non-seamed belt, do

not use chart for nal 2 rows, use
written instructions instead.

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 -CONNECT-
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– Marcus Tullius Cicero

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©Expression Fiber Arts 2023. Finished items made using this pattern may be sold so long as pattern attribution is ascribed to Expression Fiber Arts.
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