cals in

Chemi

Cosmetics
A substance or preparation intended for placement in contact with any external part of the human body (this
includes the mouth and teeth).
It is also used to cleanse, protect, and change the body’s appearance or alter its odors.
Cosmetics are limited on make-up and include creams, perfumes, talcum powder, shampoo deodorants, and
other toiletries.

History of Cosmetics

Ancient Egypians Chinese Indian Elizabethan

Used scented oils and ointments Henna was used
England
The Chinese stained
to clean and soften their skin, their fingernails with in India both as a
hair dye and Dyed red hair came into
mask body odor, and protect gum arabic, gelatin,
Mehndi, an art fashion.
their skin against the hot beeswax, and egg.
form in which Society women wore
Egyptian sun and dry winds. The colors were
intricate designs egg whites over their
They used myrrh, thyme, used to represent
were painted on faces to create the
marjoram, chamomile, lavender, social class: Chou
the hands and appearance of a paler
lily, peppermint, rosemary, cedar, dynasty royals wore
feet using a complexion. Some
rose, aloe, olive oil, sesame oil, and gold and silver; the
paste made from people believed,
almond oil. Middle classes wore
the henna plant, however, that
Egyptian women applied galena black or red; Lower
especially before cosmetics blocked
mesdemet (made of copper and classes were
a Hindu wedding. proper circulation and
lead ore) and malachite (bright forbidden to wear
Henna is still also therefore posed a
green paste of copper minerals) bright colors on their
used in some health threat.
to their faces for color and nails.
definition. North African
cultures
Europe
Edwardian Society
Italy and France emerged
Pressure increased on middle-aged women as the main cosmetics
to appear youthful while acting as manufacturing centers in
hostesses. Europe, and only the
As a result, the use of cosmetics increased aristocracy had access.
but was not yet wholly popularized. European women often
Beauty salons rose in popularity, though attempted to lighten their
patronage of such salons was not widely skin using a variety of
accepted. products, including white
Moreover, many women did not wish to lead paint.
publicly admit they could achieve their Queen Elizabeth I of
youthful appearances, so they often England was one well-
entered salons through the back door. known user of white lead
paint, with which she
created a look known as
“the Mask of Youth.”
 Cosmetic Product Forms
Product forms are an essential part of quality control in the cosmetic industry. Some cosmetics must have
certain forms to prove useful for their designed purpose.
When we talk about cosmetic product forms, viscosity is very vital. Viscosity refers to the resistance to flow.
It also refers to how the product behaves and flows when put in a particular container

To suit customers’ perception –

To make it easy to apply - To make it easy to dispense and
customers often judge the
A body mist must have low use the right amount – Shampoo
conditioning
viscosity for it to flow must be
benefits of a conditioner by how
freely and be distributed in an viscous enough to pour it from a
thick and creamy it is.
even manner, while lipsticks and bottle in a controlled amount
lip balms and need to
must be highly viscous to stick stay in the hand while applying it
on one’s lips and protect the on the head.
skin.

Liquid Gel Foaming Gel

It can flow freely from runny like It is thicker than liquid and has It is used to describe foaming
water to runny like honey. limited flow properties. products with honey-like
Water-based liquid can only It is formed through the use of viscosity.
contain a small amount of oils gum or thickening agents. It has limited flow capacity and
appropriately solubilized. Examples: water-based (hair- prevents the product from
Examples: perfume, body mist, styling gel); oil-based ( viscous hair running out of the hand since it
skin toner oils) foams up. Examples: shampoo,
liquid body wash, and foaming
Serum Lotion facial cleanser

It varies from low viscosity gel to It contains low viscosity emulsions.

almost lotion-like. Emulsion – is a mixture of two naturally not soluble substances (like oil
It is used to deliver critical ingredients in and water) by use of a material to hold them together (emulsifier)
a light product form. It can readily be pumped or squeezed from packaging with a little
It is made up of smaller molecules that effort or may run semi freely.
can penetrate deeply into the skin and The viscosity of lotions can be altered by using different emulsifying
deliver a high concentration of active agents, consistency factors (beeswax or other waxes), or gums or
ingredients. thickening agents.
Examples: Vitamin C serum and facial Examples: hand and body lotion, medicated lotion
serum

Cream
It contains medium to high viscosity emulsions.
It is suitable to be put in jars or small bottles with a wide mouth or bigger pump nozzles.
Examples: Anti-aging creams, skincare creams
Creams can be in the form of:
1. Oil in water emulsions (o/w)
droplets of oil in water continuous phase
Tends to have a light-after feel on the skin being waterbased
2. Water in oil emulsions (w/o)
droplets of water in a continuous oil phase
Has a greasier-after feel since it is oil-base
 Powder Balm Mud
It is mostly or entirely oil-based It is often presented as a semi-
It is utilized readily in the color
with semi-solid consistency. solid product with the use of
cosmetics industry like eye
Examples: Hair and lip balm, lipstick different clay and with the
shadow, blushes, pressed, loose
presence of oils
powder, and mineral make-up.
Examples: Mud clay mask
Examples: baby powder, talc,
blusher, most of the make-up
produc

Scrub
It contains various sized particles
to exfoliate skin mechanically.
Examples: Salt or sugar
exfoliating body scrub

Cosmetic Ingredients & Functions

Any cosmetic products available in the market are required by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to have its
INCI labels. INCI stands for “International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients,” a system ofnames for ingredients,
botanicals, and chemicals used to manufacture cosmetic products. Cosmetic labels also include the product’s
shelf life, testing procedure, manufacturer, distributor, and other properties.

a. Functional Ingredients Abrasives

these are the main ingredients chosen These are used to remove skin cells or plaque from teeth
to perform the primary function of the through friction.
cosmetic product. Examples:
b. Structural Ingredients Body exfoliants/scrubs – oat kernel meal, salt, sugar,
provide the structure and form of the walnut shell powder, hydrogenated jojoba wax
product Toothpaste abrasives – silica, sodium bicarbonate
c. Supportive ingredients Antioxidants
improve the stability and shelf life of They reduce oxidation and rancidity from occurring over
the product time.
d. Added Extra They act as supportive ingredients to lengthen the shelf
added in a small amount to add life of the product.
consumer acceptance and to make the They are marketed as skin nurturers.
product more marketable Examples:
Vitamins – tocopherol (Vitamin E) Plant extracts – green
tea leaf extract, chamomile flower extract, rosemary leaf
Colorants
extract, and grape seed extract
These are used to give color to a product or the
Chelating Agents
skin.
They are also known as sequestrants.
Most of the colorants are synthetically made.
They help improve the product’s stability by binding metal
Examples: Acid Green, Basic Yellow, Iron oxide red,
ions that may be present in other raw materials.
and Chromium oxide green
They are essential in foaming products as they bind ions in
Cosmetic Astringents
hard water and prevent deterioration of the foam.
They induce a tightening and toning effect on the
Examples: Citric acid, Disodium
skin.
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and Tetrasodium
They are commonly found in skin toner,
ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA)
astringents, and aftershave lotion
Examples: Alcohols and Witch hazel extract
Emulsion Stabilizer Skin Conditioning Agents
It stabilizes the emulsion once formed and Emollients- impart softness to the skin
prevents the separation of oil and water in the Examples: Cocoglycerides, caprylic/capric
emulsion. triglycerides, Isopropyl myristate, Dimethicone,
It also serves as a thickening agent. and mineral oil
Examples: Xanthan gum, Cellulose gum, Humectants – retard moisture loss by holding
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate water within the surface layers of the skin and
cross polymer, and carbomer drawing in moisture from the air
Exfoliants Examples: Glycerin, Propylene glycol, and
They remove dead skin cell layers by dissolving Sodium hyaluronate
intracellular “cement” holding surface skin cells Occlusive – blocks the evaporation of water from
together. the surface of the skin, keeping it moist and
They are usually found in skin whitening or skin increasing its water content
peel products in the presence of low pH. Examples: Shea butter, Jojoba seed oil,
Examples: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, and Salicylic Caprylic/capric triglycerides, and Propylene
acid glycol dioleate
Fragrance Solvents
This is used to enhance the products’ smell or to These are liquids that are used to dissolve
mask undesirable odors/scents. constituents or act as carriers in cosmetic
Examples: Essential oils products.
Hair Conditioning Agents Examples: Water, Alcohol, Butylene glycol,
These are used to condition and improve the Glycerine, and Propylene glycol
hair’s appearance, gloss, and shine while Sunscreen Agents
facilitating styling and reducing the static of the They are used to protect the skin from UV
hair. radiation.
They improve the texture of the hair that has Examples: Benzophenone-3, Butyl
been dried through styling, chemical exposure, or methoxydibenzoylmethane,Ethylhexyl
environmental drying. methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide, and zinc
Examples: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, oxide
Behentrimonium methosulfate, Amodimethicone, Surfactants
Cetrimonium chloride, Polyquaternium-7, and They are surface-active agents and have the
Quaternium-22 ability to modify the surface of the substance.
Hair Fixatives Cleansing Agents - produce foam and clean the
They are used to hold the hair in styles in place. surface of the skin or hair
Examples: Examples: Cocoyl glucoside, Decyl glucoside,
Acrylic acid/VP cross polymer and VP/VA Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium lauryl sulfate,
copolymer Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, and Sodium C14-16
Opacifying Agents olefin sulfonate
They are added to shampoos and shower gels to Emulsifying Agents – used to mix oils and
make them appear pearlescent. water in an emulsion Examples: Cetearyl
They provide consumers with the impression that alcohol, stearic acid, Ceteareth-20, and PEG-
the product is rich and creamy. 100 stearate
Examples: Glycol Stearate, Propylene glycol Solubilizers – used to dissolve substances
stearate, and Stearamide Monoethanolamine that are usually insoluble in a continuous
(MEA) stearate medium
PH Adjusters Examples: Laureth-20, PEG-40 hydrogenated
They adjust the pH of the product at the desired castor oil, and Polysorbate 80
range. Viscosity Increasing Agents - Aqueous
They can be considered as Acids (lower the pH) These thicken the water-soluble components of
and bases (raise the pH). the product.
Examples: Examples: Agar, Xanthan gum, Guar
Acids – citric acid, lactic acid hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
Bases – potassium hydroxide, sodium Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acrylates, alkyl acrylate
hydroxide, and triethanolamine cross polymer, and carbomer
Preservatives Viscosity Increasing Agents – Non-Aqueous
They prevent or retard microbial growth in These thicken the oil-soluble components of the
cosmetics. product.
Examples: Diazolidinyl urea, Methylparaben, Examples: Beeswax, Candelilla wax, Stearalkonium
Phenoxyethanol, Propylparaben, and Sodium bentonite, Microcrystalline wax, and Silica dimethyl
hydroxymethylglycinate silylate.
 Chemicals
in

Soap & Detergent

History of Soap & Detergent
Pre-historic Babylon Egypt Ancient Roman
Times
A soap-like material An Egyptian According to an Ancient Roman
The origins of personal was found in a clay medical legend, soap got its name from
cleanliness date back to cylinder in ancient document Mount Sapo, where animals were
prehistoric times. Since Babylon is evidence describes sacrificed. Rain washed a mixture
water is essential for that soap-making combining animal of melted animal fat or tallow and
life, the earliest people was known as early and vegetable wood ashes into the clay soil
who lived near water as 2800 B.C. oils with along the Tiber River. Women
knew something about Inscriptions in the alkaline salts to found this clay mixture and did
cleanliness – rinsed mud cylinder say that form soap-like their washing with much less
off their hands. fat was boiled with material used to effort.
ashes, a soap- treat skin
making method. diseases as well
as for washing.

Greek
1800 1791 Europe
By the second
In the mid-1800s, In 1791, Nicholas Soap making was an century, a Greek
Ernest Solvay Leblanc patented established craft in Europe physician,
invented another making soda ash or in the 7th century. Italy, Galen,
soap technology, the sodium carbonate Spain, and France were the recommended soap
ammonia process, to from common salt. early centers for soap for medicinal and
make soda ash out Soda ash is manufacturing cleansing purposes.
of common table combined with fat due to their ready supply
salt. to form soap. of raw materials such as
This process further oils from olive trees. Soap
reduced the cost of was a luxury enjoyed
obtaining soda ash
and increased its Germany mainly by those who could
afford it. Manufactured
quantity and quality bar soaps were not
for soap available until the late 18th
In 1916, Germany created
manufacturing. century in Europe and the
the first synthetic
U.S. Widespread use of
detergent. It is in response
soap during this period can
to World War I soap
be attributed to
ingredient shortages. It
advertising campaigns
encouraged manufacturers
touting the relationship
to develop synthetic
between good personal
cleaners to meet demand.
hygiene and health.
By the 1950s, detergents
had overtaken traditional
soap products in homes
across America.
 Chemistry of Soap & Detergent
Soap and detergent are two of the most common cleaning products used in a household. They are used in
laundering, dishwashing, bathing, hand washing, and other types of cleaning. As a consumer, it is a must for you to
understand the chemistry behind these commercial products. It will serve as a guide for you to understand their
performance, efficacy, and safety. It can also help you to be more productive and efficient in your cleaning
strategies.

Preparation of
Soap Ingredients:
Fatty acid from animal fats and vegetable oils
source of the hydrocarbon chain – hydrophobic
(water-hating end) but attracted to grease and
oils
Carboxylate end – hydrophilic (water-loving end)

Alkali
Chemical Structure of Soap; Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or caustic soda –
produces hard soap- like bath and bar soap
Potassium hydroxide (KOH) or caustic potash –
Saponification produces soft soap like in liquid hand soap
Involves heating plant oils and animal fats,
reacting them with a liquid alkali to produce
soap plus water plus glycerine.

Preparation of Detergent
Ingredients:
Hydrolysis
Another way of soap making is the hydrolysis 1. Petrochemicals (derived from petroleum) and
of oils and fats in high-pressure steam to yield oleochemical (derived from fats and oils – the
crude fatty acids and glycerine – purification source of the hydrocarbon chain, the
of fatty acids through distillation and hydrophobic end of detergent but attracted to
neutralization of fatty acids with alkali to form grease and oils
soap and water 2. Other chemicals like sulfur trioxide, sulfuric acid,
or ethylene oxide - the source of hydrophilic
end of the detergent
3. Alkali – sodium or potassium hydroxide
 Chemical Structure of Detergent;

How Soap & Detergent works

1. Chemical energy – is provided by the soap and detergent. The hydrophilic end (water-loving) mixed up the water,
and the hydrophobic end (water-hating) removes the soil’s grease and oils.
2. Thermal energy – change in water temperature. Warm water or hot temperature helps to dissolve the grease and
oil of the soil.
3. Mechanical energy – Machine, hand rubbing, and another way of agitation help pull the soil free.

Surface Tension Surfactant

Property of water Also called surface-active agents
The tension is created Chemicals change the properties of water by lowering the surface tension
as the water molecules Enables the cleaning solution to wet a surface more quickly so the soil can
at the surface are easily be loosened or removed
pulled into the body of Emulsifies the oily soils and keeps them dispersed and suspended
water.
It slows down the
wetting of the surface Builders
and inhibits the cleaning Enhance the cleaning effectiveness of surfactants
process. Reduce water hardness (possible formation of scum or film)
Supply and maintain alkalinity
It is done either by:
Sequestration or chelation – holding hard materials in the solution
Examples: complex phosphates and sodium citrate
Precipitation – forming an insoluble substance
Examples: sodium carbonate and sodium silicate
Ion exchange – trading electrically charged particles
Example: sodium aluminosilicate (zeolite)
 Chemicals in

Dye
An organic compounds that are widely used for imparting color to textiles. They are produced either
from natural or synthetic resources. Unlike paint (pigments), they do not build upon the material’s
surface but are absorbed in the fibers’ pores. It is possible because of the following reasons:

1. The dye molecules are smaller than the size of the pores of the fibers. The planar shape of its
molecules with a little thickness helps to slip into the fiber’s polymer system.
2. There is an affinity between the dye and the fiber due to the force of attraction.

Unique Property of Dye The chromophore must be a part of the conjugated system. Just
like the figure below:
The first example shows a colorless compound because the
1. Dyes absorb light in the visible spectrum chromophore – the azo group is attached in between two methyl
(400-700 nm) group (not conjugated system)
2. They have at least one chromophore (color- The second example obtained an orange color because the
bearing group) chromophore – the azo group is attached between two benzene
3. They have a conjugated system – a rings (a conjugates system)
structure with alternating double and single
bonds.
4. They exhibit resonance of electrons, the
stabilizing force in organic compounds.

Factors that can intensify the color

of the Dye Auxochromes (color helpers)
Can shift the color of the dye
Doubling the length of the conjugated Attach the dyes to the fibers
system causes a bathochromic effect. Most often used to influence the dye solubility
Adding groups of electron-donating Examples: carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, amino (NH2), and
(auxochromes) has a bathochromic effect. hydroxyl (OH) groups
Electron-donating (NH2) and electron- Bathochromic shift (redshift)
accepting (NO2) provide a bathochromic The position shift of a peak or signal to a longer
effect. wavelength (lower energy)
Increasing the number of electron- Increases absorption and intensity (darker) of the color
attracting groups (chromophores) Hypsochromic shift (blue shift)
conjugated with electron-donor The position shift of a peak or signal to a shorter
(auxochromes) has a bathochromic effect. wavelength (high energy)
The electron-donating effect of an amino Decreases absorption and intensity of the color
group is enhanced by adding alkyl groups
to the N- atom.

Different types of Dyes

 SUITABLE
TYPES OF DYES MEDIUM/SOLVENT FASTNESS EXAMPLE
SUBSTRATE

MauveineRed Lac dye

Natural Not stated Water Poor light and wet fast
Buff

Synthetic

Light fast butnot wet

Acid Dye Polyamides Acid Acid Black 1
fast

Basic Dye Polyacrylic Base Good fastness Basic Red 18

Hydrophobic
Disperse Dye Water Good fastness Disperse Blue165
Substrates

Direct Dye Cellulosic polymers Water Poor fastness Benzidine-based

Water withsodium
Vat and Sulfur Dye Cotton, linen, rayon hydrosulphite in Wet fast Natural dye Indigo
sodium hydroxide

Wet fast butpoor light

Azoic Dye Cotton, nylon Water Fast Dye (jobus)
fast

Reactive Dye Cellulosic fibers Water Excellent Reactive Blue 19

 ls in
Chemica

Insect Repellants
Mosquitoes, flies, mites, ticks, and other insects can pose a severe risk to public health. In the Philippines, it is
prevalent that mosquitoes can transmit diseases like dengue and Japanese encephalitis. Flies can also transmit
diseases as they land on our skin, food, or clothing. When properly used, insect repellants can help to eradicate
this kind of problem with insect- carrying diseases.

Insect repellants are available in various forms and concentrations. Aerosol and pump-spray products are intended
for skin applications as well as treating clothing. Liquid, cream, lotion, spray, and stick products enable direct skin
application. The concentration of active ingredients may be useful in areas where there are either minimally
exposed or highly infested places where insects are difficult to repel.

Traditional Insect Repellants

Octenol
Smoke Waste plant materials are frequently burned in
Sri Lanka as a mosquito repellant. It is the chemical present in human sweat and
In the Solomon Islands, a fire with coconut husks breath and attracting biting insects like
and papaya leaves is a form of personal mosquitoes
protection from mosquitoes. Often used in combination with CO2 in
Smoke is also used to drive away biting insects mosquito traps
in South East Asia.
Wood fires and smudge pots are used in
Myanmar.
Herbs are thrown in fire in China.
In Papua New Guinea, burning local wood and
leaves (mango wood, coconut husks, wild ginger
leaves, and betel nut leaves) can repel
mosquitoes.
Smoke also reduced sand fly density in East
Africa.

Pyrethrum
It is a natural plant oil from two species of
pyrethrum daisy.
The insecticidal component – six esters
(pyrethrins) – is found in tiny oil- containing glands
on the surface of the seed case in the flower head.
Incorporated to mosquito coils – derived from the
incense used in religious activities of Hindus and
Buddhist
The powder was used by armies from Napoleon’s
time to World War II to combat head and body lice.
It affects the central nervous system of all types
of flying and crawling insects, blocking sodium-
gated nerve junctions, so that nerve impulses fail,
and the insect is knocked down and then
eventually dies.
 The Development of Modern
Synthetic Insect Repellants
DMP
Chemical Name: dimethyl phthalate
Patented in 1929 as a fly repellant
Significant protection against scrub chiggers
Resulted in a hot and restricted vision on head nets of troops

Indalone
Chemical Name: butyl-3,3- dihydro-2,2-dimethyl-4-oxo-2H-pyran-6- carboxylate
Patented in 1937
Significant protection against scrub chiggers
Resulted in a hot and restricted vision on head nets of troops

Rutgers 612
Chemical Name: 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol
Available on 1939
Voluntarily removed in USA and Canada markets showing low lung expansion in the offspring of an exposed mammal

6-2-2 or M-250
Six parts DMP, two parts Indalone and two parts of Rutgers 612
Mild developmental toxicity after cutaneous administration to pregnant rats

Natural Citriodiol
Can be extracted from lemon eucalyptus oil – Because of the health risk imposed by the
from the leaves of the lemon eucalyptus tree chemicals present on the previous insect
Natural occurring substance – para-menthane- 3,8-diol repellants and even the environmental effect of
known as PMD the traditional way – smoke, the industry tried
20%-26% PMD may be useful as 15%-20% of DEET their best to formulate safer insect repellants.
against mosquitoes and ticks The following are chemical compositions of the
Most effective botanical insect repellant commercially-available insect repellants on the
Can cause allergic skin reactions market. They are far way safer compared to
Effective against as mosquitoes, fly, gnat repellant and those initially formulated insect repellants.
also as a miticide against insects and mites

Citronellol and Geraniol

Can be extracted from citronella oil – from a natural plant obtained from the species of Cymbopogon lemongrass
Natural occurring substance – 3,7- Dimethyloct-6-en-1-ol
Available as lotion, oil, solid wax, and components of citronella candles and flame pots
Has a short duration of action
4.2% of concentration provides 1 hour of mosquito and tick protection
Ineffective against Asian tiger mosquitoes, flies, fleas
Mildly irritating to the eyes and skin

DEET
Chemical Name: N, N-diethyl-3- methylbenzamide also listed as N, N-diethyl-m- toluamide
Principal and most effective repellant use today
“Gold-standard” repellant
It is a broad spectrum repellant that is highly
effective against all mosquitoes, sand flies, black flies, chiggers, hard and soft ticks, bedbugs, and fleas.
Proven to reduce malaria in areas greatly affected
Currently available to the public in the form of liquid, lotion, spray, and impregnated materials (wrist bands)
Designed to direct application to human skin to repel insects, rather than killing them
Use lower concentration (<6%) on children and not allowed to infants and pregnant women.
IR-3535 or MERCK 3535
Chemical Name: 3-(N-acetyl-N-butyl) amino propionic acid ethyl ester
Developed in 1975 by Merck
Low toxicity, irritating to the eyes and sometimes on the skin
Classified as a biopesticide, as it is a substituted B-amino acid
No recorded incidence of adverse reaction

Picaridin
Chemical Name: 1-piperidine carboxylic acid- 2(2-hydroxyethyl)-1-methylpropyl ester
Also known as Icaridin, Bayrepel (trademark name), KBR 3023
Developed by Bayer in 1980
Very low toxicity
Practically no dermal and eye irritation
Colorless, odorless, and has a pleasant feel on the skin
Evaporates slower rate than DEET (less repellant than DEET when freshly applied)
WHO designated it as a “repellant of choice for malaria prevention.”