This task covers:

a. Inspection
b. Service
INITIAL SETUP
Tools
Equipment Conditions
General Mechanic’s Tool Kit
Reference
(item 2, appendix B)
Generator Set 150 kW shut
Automotive Fuel and Electrical System Repair, Tool Kit
down, paragraph 2.5.2
(item 3, appendix B)
INSPECTION
WARNING
To prevent severe personal injury from hot engine, perform this in-
spection only when engine is cold.
1.
Open flaps (1, 5, figure 4-39).
2.
Check cooling fins (2, 3) for dirt buildup.
3.
Check oil cooler (4) for dirt buildup.
SERVICE
1.
Clean cylinder cooling fins (2) and oil cooler (4):
a. Loosen deposits (mixture of dust, fuel, and oil) between cooling fins (2, 3) and on oil
cooler (4)
with a wire brush.
WARNING
Eye protection must be worn when using compressed air to clean
parts. Failure to observe this warning could result In severe personal
Injury.
b. Blow compressed air from air discharge side to clean out cooling fins.
2. Close flaps (1, 5).
4-87
This task covers:
a. Inspection
b. Service
INITIAL SETUP
Tools
Equipment Conditions
General Mechanic’s Tool Kit
Reference
(item 2, appendix B)
Generator Set 150 kW shut
Automotive Fuel and Electrical System Repair, Tool Kit
down, paragraph 2.5.2
(item 3, appendix B)
INSPECTION
WARNING
To prevent severe personal injury from hot engine, perform this in-
spection only when engine is cold.
1.
Open flaps (1, 5, figure 4-39).
2.
Check cooling fins (2, 3) for dirt buildup.
3.
Check oil cooler (4) for dirt buildup.
SERVICE
1.
Clean cylinder cooling fins (2) and oil cooler (4):
a. Loosen deposits (mixture of dust, fuel, and oil) between cooling fins (2, 3) and on oil
cooler (4)
with a wire brush.
WARNING
Eye protection must be worn when using compressed air to clean
parts. Failure to observe this warning could result In severe personal
Injury.
b. Blow compressed air from air discharge side to clean out cooling fins.
2. Close flaps (1, 5).
4-87
Engine Breathing Systems
The Basics

Good ‘engine breathing’ is usually associated with efficient intake systems e.g. high flow
air filter, a well designed manifold, etc. However, efficient ‘crankcase breathing’ is an
equally important function of any engine whether Ford or not. Even in a new engine, the
combustion pressure will inevitably pass the piston rings into the crankcase. If an
engine’s breathing system should become blocked or restricted, the crankcase will
pressurise causing any one or more of the following problems:
The oil/air mix will force its way out through any other convenient exit e.g. oil seals, dip
stick, filler cap, etc.
The efficiency of the oil control rings will be reduced creating increased oil consumption.
Impurities such as water vapour and acids (by products of combustion) will build up and
contaminate the oil causing sludging and increased engine wear.
The adverse affect on the air/fuel mixture will result in starting problems and rough idling
conditions.
As a consequence of the weakened fuel charge, detonation or ‘pinking’ will ensue. To
compensate, the ignition will need retarding resulting in further power loss.
Positive Crankshaft Ventilation (PCV)
Prior to 1963 most vehicle engines vented their vapours and oil deposits to atmosphere
and the road surface! With increasing environmental pressures Positive Crankshaft
Ventilation was introduced whereby the crankcase vapours were drawn up into the inlet
manifold and, along with the air/fuel mixture, burned up in the combustion chambers. To
enable this system to work safely and efficiently the ventilation from the crankcase is
controlled via a PCV valve.

To avoid upsetting the fuel/air mixture, the PCV valve must regulate the evacuation of
these blow-by gases and vapours (which will be minimal at idling speed but will intensify
as engine speed is increased). Since manifold vacuum is highest at low engine speeds, the
PCV plunger will be drawn forward to a position that will restrict crankcase ventilation to
a minimum thus ensuring no unsettlement of the air/fuel mixture. As engine speeds are
increased the manifold vacuum will drop thus reducing the ‘pull’ on the plunger which
will slide back to a midway position allowing a greater flow rate from the crankcase.
Since the engine demands more air/fuel mixture at high engine speeds, the escalation of
crankcase vapours into the combustion chambers should not affect performance.

The PCV valve also acts as a flame trap. In the event of a backfire, the resulting pressure
through the inlet manifold will force the plunger back into the closed position, thus
preventing an explosion of the vapours in the crankcase. Various PCV systems are in use
but they all function in essentially the same way. Earlier systems were known as ‘open’
systems that still allowed some vapours to vent to atmosphere via the filler cap. ‘Closed’
PCV systems have been the norm for some time now, whereby the filler caps are not
vented and air is recirculated via the air filter. Left unchecked over a period of time a
PCV system will deteriorate and may cause major engine problems as outlined above.
Regular maintenance is essential with some manufacturers recommending the renewal of
the PCV valve at every major service interval.

High Performance Engines

For all moderate stages of engine tune, the standard PCV system should cope with the
increase in engine power whilst continuing to control the emissions from the crankcase.
However, even on a fairly new car, the system should be thoroughly checked and any
suspect valves, hoses, etc. replaced. It must also be borne in mind that, on all
management controlled engines, any alteration to the system may upset the sensor
readings and thus create further problems (including MOT test failure on emission
levels!).

For most motorsport applications and the more radical stages of engine tune, alternative
provisions for engine ventilation will almost certainly have to be made. With higher
combustion pressures, higher oil pressures and higher engine speeds, the demand for
adequate crankcase ventilation will also be high. This situation is further aggravated by
the radical cam profiles used, which will drastically reduce the available vacuum required
to purge the crankcase.
However, before you rush out to buy the biggest size breather pipe kit you can lay your
hands on, many other factors need to be taken into account and the following points
should be observed:

1) On ‘wet sump’ engines the sump must never be overfilled and it should be properly
baffled to minimise oil surge. If the crank and rods are allowed to plunge through an oil
bath at every revolution, apart from the drag and power loss factor, it will also create an
even greater volume of oil spray to contend with. This will result in oil loss through the
breather system and also past the oil control rings, the latter causing further problems e.g.
plug fouling, power loss, etc.
2) Any filler or breather aperture should be baffled, especially if it is above or adjacent to
rotating parts. As an example many filler caps on OHC engines are directly above the
camshaft lobes which, when rotating at speed, will flick the oil with such force that a
considerable amount can be lost up the breather pipe.
N.B. Always consider this factor when deciding where to drill a cam / valve cover to
locate a breather take-off union.

3) If the crankcase is to be vented via the inlet manifold this should only be considered
where a mixing (plenum) chamber exists. Under no circumstances should any type of
breather union be connected to a manifold port dedicated to a single cylinder. Breather
unions can also be connected to an air box but this may exacerbate filter clogging and
necessitate regular cleaning of the filter(s). Small replacement ‘K&N’ type performance
filters (carburettor models) are not suitable for this type of conversion. For optimum
efficiency a PCV valve should be fitted.

To eliminate any charge contamination and subsequent power loss, most highly modified
engines should vent via an isolated catch tank, which will also act as a collector for any
oil lost. These tanks should have a minimum 1 litre capacity, 2 top inlet connections (1
crankcase vent and 1 valve/cam cover vent), a sight gauge (to indicate the level of any oil
inside) and a bottom plug or tap to allow the oil to be drained off when necessary.
To avoid frequent inspection and draining of the oil level in the catch tank, an automatic
drain back into the sump can be improvised as shown. The vent outlet can be recirculated
through the intake system or left to vent to atmosphere via a suitable filter, the latter
being the more popular option. On dry sump systems, the scavenging action of the pump
should evacuate any excess blow by gases in the crankcase and, in an ideal situation,
maintain pressures at or below 2 inches of water. Depending on the practicalities of
individual engine types and installations, both ‘open’ and ‘closed’ systems can be
adopted with some tuners preferring the closed system. Providing a closed system
(incorporating a PCV or similar check valve between the engine and oil tank) can be seen
to function efficiently, it can offer added benefits. The closed system allows the scavenge
pump to reduce crankcase pressures to a minimum, in some cases as low as zero or even
a slight vacuum. In such situations a small bhp gain is achieved by eliminating
combustion chamber contamination and reducing any residual oil drag (clinging to crank,
rods, etc.) to a bare minimum.
SYSTEM OPERATION:
The PCV system prevents blow-by gasses from entering the atmosphere by routing blow-
by gases into the intake manifold through a vacuum controlled ventilating valve and a
hose while allowing proper crankcase ventilation.

Blow-by gases mix with the air/fuel mixture and are burned during combustion. When
the engine is running, fresh air is drawn into the crankcase through a tube or hose
connected to the air cleaner housing.

This system is still the same as it was when it was first used in 1961.

PCV VALVE OPERATION: The PCV valve consists of needle valve, spring and
housing.

When the engine is off: the spring holds the needle valve closed to stop vapors from
entering the intake manifold.

When the engine is running: manifold vacuum unseats the needle valve allowing
crankcase vapors to enter the intake manifold.

In case of a backfire in the intake manifold: the valve closes, stopping the back flow and
preventing ignition of fumes in the crankcase.

During certain engine conditions more blow-by gases are created than the ventilator valve
can handle. The excess is returned through the air intake tube to the air cleaner and
carburetor where it is burned in the engine.

A quick check of the system can he made by pulling the end of the PCV valve out of the
valve cover and placing a finger over the end of the valve to block the air flow, while the
engine is idling.
A vacuum should be felt and the engine speed should drop approximately 50 rpm if the
system is satisfactory and no further testing is necessary.
If there is no change in engine speed a clogged system is indicated, proceed to the next
step.

To isolate the problem, remove the PCV valve from the hose and note vacuum felt and
any change in idle speed.
If the ventilator hoses and carburetor passages are clear, a strong vacuum will be felt and
the engine idle will change drastically or the engine will stall when the end of the hose is
uncovered. If this occurs, the trouble is in the valve.
If the engine continues to idle approximately as it did before the hose was uncovered, the
hoses or carburetor passages are blocked.

As for the other end, the air intake side, there is little that can go wrong. As long as the
hose or breather filter is not clogged, air has to enter the system.
Minimum cylinder compression is 100 psi at 200 rpm. The lowest cylinder reading
should not be less than 80% of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at
normal operating temperature, spark plugs removed and throttle wide open. 150 psi is
good for this engine.

What I would suggest is going to a GM dealer and get a can of "Top Engine Cleaner".
Run it through the engine according to the directions on the label

Crankcase Ventilation

Internal combustion engine crankcases need to be ventilated to remove harmful blowby

gasses and moisture. This reduces the formation of sludge and acids to help prolong
engine life. Many early automobiles used a road draft tube system for crankcase
ventilation. Forward motion of the vehicle through the air caused a suction on the road
draft tube. This suction circulated air through the engine carrying the contaminated
gasses out to the atmosphere. The slow speeds of an off road vehicle do not generate
much air flow and therefore less crankcase ventilation. Willys was one of the first
manufacturers to use a closed crankcase ventilation system providing a positive flow
contained system that does not require vehicle motion for operation. Contaminated gasses
are not released to the atmosphere providing another benefit from this system. The
following cutaway engine illustration from the service manual, with red highlights added,
indicates the air flow.

A crankcase ventilation valve (5) is mounted on the intake manifold and

connected by a tube (10) to the side valve cover (2). Clean air is drawn into the oil filler
tube through a hose from the air cleaner crossover pipe. Air flows down the oil filler tube
to the engine crankcase. Any vapors in the crankcase are mixed with the air and carried
out the tube (10) at the side cover (2), through the crankcase ventilation valve (5), and
into the intake manifold where they are combined with the incoming combustion mixture
and then burned in the cylinders.

The ventilation valve (5) regulates the system air flow dependent on intake manifold
vacuum. High vacuum, such as found at idle, closes the valve reducing the flow volume.
Under load, low manifold vacuum causes the valve to open for maximum air flow.

In the United States during the 1970's a closed ventilation system became mandatory for
emission reasons. This closed system is now commonly called a PCV system, which
stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation.
In 1943 Delmar G. Roos, a Willys-Overland engineer, filed a patent for the
crankcase ventilation system used on the Jeep. Click on the patent drawing for a larger
view.
The crankcase ventilation valve is serviceable. The outer housing is a two piece threaded
assembly. Unscrew the housing half's to remove, clean and inspect the valve and spring.

A valve that is stuck closed can cause sludge buildup over time and possibly external
engine oil leaks due to excessive crankcase pressure. If the valve sticks open the result is
likely to be a poor and/or unstable idle.

Some military vehicles were equipped with underwater driving capabilities. The engine
ventilation system was used to pressurize the crankcase and gearboxes to help keep water
out. See the Siblings section for more information about Willys military vehicles.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)

Copyright AA1Car
.

The Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system reduces blowby emissions from the
engine. About 20% of the total hydrocarbon (HC) emissions produced by a vehicle are
blowby emissions from gases that get past the piston rings and enter the crankcase. The
higher the mileage on the engine and the greater the wear on the piston rings and
cylinders, the greater the blowby into the crankcase.

Before PCV was invented, blowby vapors were simply vented to the atmosphere through
a "road draft tube" that ran from a vent hole in a valve cover or valley cover down toward
the ground.

In 1961, the first PCV systems appeared on California cars. The PCV system used intake
vacuum to siphon blowby vapors back into the intake manifold. This allowed the HC to
be re-burned and eliminated blowby vapors as a source of pollution.

The system proved to be so effective that "open" PCV systems were added to most cars
nationwide in 1963. An open PCV system draws air in through a mesh filter inside the oil
filler cap or a breather on a valve cover. The flow of fresh air through the crankcase
helped pull moisture out of the oil to extended oil life and reduce sludge. The only
drawback to these early open PCV systems was that blowby vapors could still backup at
high engine speed and loads, and escape into the atmosphere through the oil filler cap or
valve cover breather.

In 1968, "closed" PCV systems were added to most cars. The breather inlet was relocated
inside the air cleaner housing so if pressure backed up it would overflow into the air
cleaner and be sucked down the carburetor. No vapors would escape into the atmosphere.

HOW PCV WORKS

The major component in the PCV system is the PCV valve, a simple spring-loaded valve
with a sliding pintle inside. The pintle is tapered like a bullet so it will increase or
decrease airflow depending on its position inside the valve housing. The movement of the
pintle up and down changes the orifice opening to regulate the volume of air passing
through the PCV valve.

The PCV valve is typically located in a valve cover or the intake valley, and usually fits
into a rubber grommet. The location of the valve allows it to pull vapors from inside the
engine without sucking oil from the crankcase (baffles inside the valve cover or valley
cover deflect and help separate droplets of oil from the blowby vapors).

A hose connects the top of the PCV valve to a vacuum port on the throttle body,
carburetor or intake manifold. This allows the vapors to be siphoned directly into the
engine without gumming up the throttle body or carburetor.

Because the PCV system pulls air and blowby gases into the intake manifold, it has the
same effect on the air/fuel mixture as a vacuum leak. This is compensated for by the
calibration of the carburetor or fuel injection system. Consequently, the PCV system has
no net effect on fuel economy, emissions or engine performance -- provided everything is
working correctly.

WARNING: Removing or disconnecting the PCV system in an attempt to improve

engine performance gains nothing, and is illegal. EPA rules prohibit tampering with any
emission control device. Disabling or disconnecting the PCV system can also allow
moisture to accumulate in the crankcase, which will reduce oil life and promote the
formation of engine-damaging sludge.

HOW PCV FLOW CHANGES WITH ENGINE SPEED & LOAD

The flow rate of a PCV valve is calibrated for a specific engine application. For the
system to function normally, therefore, the PCV valve must adjust the flow rate as
operating conditions change.

When the engine is off, the spring inside the valve pushes the pintle shut to seal the
crankcase and prevent the escape of any residual vapors into the atmosphere.

When the engine starts, vacuum in the intake manifold pulls on the pintle and sucks the
PCV valve open. The pintle is pulled up against the spring and moves to its highest
position. But the tapered shape of the pintle does not allow maximum flow in this
position. Instead, it restricts flow so the engine will idle smoothly.

The same thing happens during deceleration when intake vacuum is high. The pintle is
pulled all the way up to reduce flow and minimize the effect of blowby on decel
emissions.
When the engine is cruising under light load and at part throttle, there is less intake
vacuum and less pull on the pintle. This allows the pintle to slide down to a mid-range
position and allow more airflow.

Under high load or hard acceleration conditions, intake vacuum drops even more,
allowing the spring inside the PCV valve to push the pintle valve even lower to its
maximum flow position. If blowby pressure builds up faster than the PCV system can
handle it, the excess pressure flows back through the breather hose to the air cleaner and
is sucked back into the engine and burned.

In the event of an engine backfire, the sudden rise in pressure inside the intake manifold
blows back through the PCV hose and slams the pintle shut. This prevents the flame from
traveling back through PCV valve and possibly igniting fuel vapors inside the crankcase.

PCV MAINTENANCE

Because the PCV system is relatively simple and requires minimal maintenance, it is
often overlooked. The common replacement interval for many PCV valves is 50,000
miles, yet many engines have never had the PCV valve replaced. Many late model
owners' manuals do not even have a recommended replacement interval listed for the
PCV valve. The manual may only suggest "inspecting" the system periodically.

On many 2002 and newer vehicles with OBD II, the OBD II system monitors the PCV
system and checks the flow rate once during each drive cycle. But on older OBD II and
OBD I systems, the PCV system is NOT monitored. So a problem with the PCV system
on a pre-2002 vehicle probably won't turn on the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp) or set
a diagnostic trouble code (DTC).

PCV valves can last a long time, but they may eventually wear out or clog -- especially if
the vehicle owner neglects regular oil changes, and sludge builds up in the crankcase. The
same sludge and oil varnish that gums up the engine can also plug up the PCV valve.

PCV PROBLEMS

The most common problem that afflicts PCV systems is a plugged up PCV valve. An
accumulation of fuel and oil varnish deposits and/or sludge inside the valve can restrict or
even block the flow of vapors through the valve. A restricted or plugged PCV valve
cannot pull moisture and blowby vapors out of the crankcase. This can cause engine-
damaging sludge to form, and a backup of pressure that may force oil to leak past gaskets
and seals. The loss of airflow through the valve can also cause the air/fuel mixture to run
richer than normal, increasing fuel consumption and emissions. The same thing can
happen if the pintle inside the PCV valve sticks shut.

If the pintle inside the PCV valve sticks open, or the spring breaks, the PCV valve may
flow too much air and lean out the idle mixture. This may cause a rough idle, hard
starting and/or lean misfire (which increases emissions and wastes fuel). The same thing
can happen if the hose that connects the valve to the throttle body, carburetor or intake
manifold pulls loose, cracks, or leaks. A loose or leaky hose allows "un-metered" air to
enter the engine and upset the fuel mixture, especially at idle where the idle mixture is
most sensitive to vacuum leaks.

On late model vehicles with computer engine controls, the engine management system
will detect any changes in the air/fuel mixture and compensate by increasing or
decreasing short term and long term fuel trim (STFT and LTFT). Small corrections cause
no problems, but large corrections (more than 10 to 15 points negative or positive) will
typically set a lean or rich DTC and turn on the MIL.

Problems can also occur if someone installs the wrong PCV valve for the application. As
we said earlier, the flow rate of the PCV valve is calibrated for a specific engine
application. Two valves that appear to be identical on the outside (same diameter and
hose fittings) may have different pintle valves and springs inside, giving them very
different flow rates. A PCV valve that flows too much air will lean the air/fuel mixture,
while one that flows too little will richen the mixture and increase the risk of sludge
buildup in the crankcase.

Watch out for cheap replacement PCV valves. They may not flow the same as the OEM
PCV valve. Quality brand name replacement PCV valves are calibrated exactly the same
as the original valves, and are designed to provide long-lasting, trouble-free performance.

PCV VALVE CHECKS

There are a number of ways to check a PCV valve:

1. Remove the valve and shake it. If it rattles, it means the pintle inside is not stuck and
the valve should flow air. But there's no way to know if the spring is weak or broken, or
if a buildup of varnish and deposits inside the valve is restricting flow.

2. Check for vacuum by holding your finger over the end of the valve while the engine is
idling. This test tells you if vacuum is reaching the valve, but not if the valve is flowing
properly. If you don't feel vacuum, it means the valve or hose is plugged and needs to be
replaced.

3. Use a flow tester to check the performance of the valve. This method is the best
because it tests both vacuum and air flow.

PCV SYSTEM CHECKS

The volume of air that is pulled from the crankcase by the PCV system is important
because it takes a certain amount of airflow to remove the blowby vapors and moisture.
But too much airflow can upset the air/fuel mixture in the engine. So to check airflow,
you can do any of the following:
Pinch or block off the vacuum hose to the PCV valve with the engine idling at operating
temperature. The engine idle rpm should typically drop about 50 to 80 rpm before the idle
speed corrects itself (or you can disconnect the idle speed control motor so it won't affect
idle speed during this test). If there is no change in idle speed, check the PCV valve, hose
and breather tube for a restriction or blockage. A greater change would indicate too much
airflow through the PCV valve. Check the part number on the PCV valve to see if it is the
correct one for the engine. The wrong valve may flow too much air. If there is no part
number, replace the valve with a new one (which meets OEM specifications) and test
again.

Measure the amount of vacuum in the crankcase. With the engine at normal operating
temperature, block off the PCV breather tube or vent to the engine (usually the hose that
runs from the air cleaner housing to the valve cover on the engine). Pull out the dipstick
and connect a vacuum-pressure gauge to the dipstick tube. A typical PCV system should
be pulling about 1 to 3 inches of vacuum in the crankcase at idle. If you see a
significantly higher vacuum reading, the intake manifold gasket is probably leaking and
pulling vacuum on the crankcase (replace the leaky intake manifold gasket). If you see no
vacuum, or find a buildup of pressure in the crankcase, the PCV system is plugged or is
not pulling enough air through the crankcase to get rid of the blowby vapors.

NOTE: If the engine has a leaky oil pan, valve cover or intake manifold gasket leak, or
leaky crankshaft seals, it will not be able to develop much vacuum in the crankcase
because it is pulling in outside air (which is also unfiltered and can further contaminate
the oil).

To find a crankcase air leak, you can lightly pressurize (no more than 1 to 3 psi) the
crankcase with shop air via the dipstick tube or oil filler cap or breather after blocking all
the other vents. Do not use any more air pressure than this or you may create leaks where
there were no leaks before. Then use a spray bottle to squirt soapy water around the
gasket seams and seals. If you see bubbles, you have found an air leak (replace the gasket
or seal as needed).

A smoke machine also works great for finding crankcase leaks as well as vacuum leaks.
A smoke machine generates a smoke-like vapor by heating mineral oil. The mist can then
fed into the intake manifold to check for intake manifold vacuum leaks, or into the
crankcase to check for internal engine air leaks. Any leaks will allow the smoke to escape
and you will see the smoke on the outside of the engine.

PCV REPLACEMENT TIPS

When replacing a PCV valve, make sure the replacement valve is the same as the
original. External appearances can be misleading because valves that look the same on
the outside may be calibrated differently inside. If the replacement valve does not have
the same flow characteristics as the original, it may upset emissions and cause
driveability problems.
The PCV hose that connects the PCV valve to the engine should also be replaced when
the valve is changed. Use hose that is approved for PCV use only.

NOTE: Can't find your PCV valve? Some engines do not have a PCV valve, but use a
crankcase ventilation system with a fixed orifice oil/vapor separator. The separator
functions similar to a PCV valve, but there is no movable pintle or spring inside. The
separator is simply a small box with some baffles inside and a calibrated hole that allows
intake vacuum to pull the blowby vapors back into the intake manifold. Like a PCV
valve, the separator can plug up with varnish and sludge, causing driveability and
emissions problems.

Water4GasReport69
rate or flag this page

By Lo La

This is my water4gas story....

People talk. That's what we do. Well, one day, as I was talking to someone, he told me
about this webpage that teaches you how to save money on gas. That was the day where
this all began. I researched "water4gas"....interesting, I thought. I googled water4gas and
included the words "scam", "fake", but nothing negative came up, everything that came
up explained how and why this was possible.

I read the page, up and down, and down and up, day after day. I researched the terms
used. I went to other sites. This was talking about converting your car to use hho....water
and gas? It was like a completely new language for me! It took me a long time to research
and read, and try to learn about this system. I did not want to give up, I knew it wouldn't
be easy, but I knew it was possible, with someone who had the knowledge and the skills
to make it happen. Luckily, I have a very very knowledgable mechanic whom I have a
close relationship with, and I turned to him. As we talked, and researched together, he
decided he would take on this project for me.

He researched it as well (as a good mechanic would) and proceeded to buy the materials.
This took him quite a while, as they are not all found in one store. As he read the manual,
he also learned that there are two types of systems, one for cars made on or before the
year 1995 and others made for cars made after the year 1995.

He put the systems (systems because he was making the system for the older cars and for
the newer cars at the same time) together and continued his research.
Below are some photographs (captions are underneath the picture).

Photos of System Parts & Install

Electrolyzer Tower with wires

Electrolyzer

Fuel Heater

PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Enhancer

PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Enhancer INSTALLED

System Installed (for cars made in 1995 or before)

System installed (for cars made after 1995)

System Installed (for cars made after 1995) Closeup

Furthermore....

These systems have now been installed in a 1990 Ford Probe and a 1999 Mercury
Cougar. The parts that are still missing in the systems are: fuel heater (in Cougar), Map
Sensor (in Cougar) and the EFIE (in both the Probe and the Cougar). These parts are
currently being constructed and I will update this when they are added to the systems.

Finally, I will say I noticed that my rpm decreased immediately after the system was
installed. I filled up my tank (ouch) and will take notes on the progress.

In the meantime, if you want more information, another great hub to visit that helped me
was: http://hubpages.com/hub/HHO-Gas-Runs-Car

This hub explains this hho system and also provides some interesting links. Also,
research things yourself.....it takes time but its worth it and you might learn something
along the way.

I will keep you all posted on the results. Feel free to comment!
UPDATE! September 4, 2008

I am back with an update! Here is my report, the negative and positive:

Negative: You need to refill with DISTILLED water every week. If you forget, the
baking powder crystalizes and you need to clean out the cell and the hoses. You MUST
install the EFIE, or you will get lower results than what you started with because the
EFIE tricks the car's computer telling it that there is less oxygen or hho, in turn, the car
sends less gasoline. This system uses BOTH water and gas, contrary to popular belief that
its just water.

Now, for the positive....I have increased my gas mileage by 6 miles per gallon. My car
was getting 21 mpg before this, now its getting 27 (28% increase). This is with three cells
installed in my car.

I do recommend having an experience mechanic work on this project for you. The book
is worth it, and its easy to follow, however, with a mechanic, its just much easier.

Go to www.water4-gas.net to purchase this book....

Also, I recommend researching the car that runs on water called

genepax....INCREDIBLE!!!!!!!!

And, don't forget to research EVERYTHING yourself....don't just depend on the so called
EXPERTS. Good luck!

Go water4gas!!!!!

Quicker Return on Your Investment.

Whether your fleet is comprised of diesel engines with open blow-by tubes or semi-
closed crankcase ventilation systems, the installation of the Fuel and Air Saver™ may
provide numerous benefits such as increased fuel economy, cleaner and more effective
oil, extended engine life expectancy, and fewer emissions into our environment. To learn
how the Fuel and Air Saver™ could save your company millions of dollars while
improving our environment, please click the applicable selection below…

Carbon Credit Calculation

Fuel - Assumption:
Class 8 Tractor drives 100,000 miles per year and averages 5.5 mpg of diesel fuel, or
about 18,000 gallons each year.

Facts:
One gallon of diesel fuel produces 22.2 pounds of CO².
18,000 x 22.2 pounds equals 40,000 pounds of CO² or about 20 metric tons of pollution.
World NCI Fuel & Air Saver™ has proven to increase fuel efficiency by 5 %. The result
is a 900 gallon reduction in fuel usage and a 10 metric ton reduction in pollution.

Emissions - Facts:
The Clean Air Task Force (CATF) study indicated that 50% of the harmful emissions
emanate from the “blow-by”, and the other 50% from the “tail-pipe.
Certified tests have established that the Fuel and Air Saver™ totally eliminates the 50%
of the lethal emissions from the “blow-by” and about 10% from the “tail-pipe” exhaust.

Conclusion:
WorldNCI's FASTechnology has successfully reduced the harmful contaminants from
diesel tractors 50-60%, while increasing the fuel savings by 5%.

WorldNCI's new HTechnology along with our Fuel & Air Saver achieves a remarkable
reduction in total emissions by 75-80% while increasing fuel savings by a minimum of
10%, with savings of 25-30% being observed.

CARBON CREDITS with FASTechnology™

Huge Benefits for School Districts, Mining and Oil Industries

Open Crankcase Problem

While open blow-by tube crankcase ventilation systems were the previous industry
standard, today’s newer engines are required to have a controlled crankcase ventilation
process. As technology and our information concerning open blow-by systems have
evolved, we now know that open blow-by venting of the crankcase is inefficient as it robs
companies of expensive fuel, results in unnecessary pollution of our environment, and
causes the life of engines to be shortened.

During engine operation, as the unburned and partially burned fuel blows past the piston
rings and into the crankcase, the venting of the open blow-by tube emits the unburned
fuel, oil, and soot into the environment. Recent laboratory testing shows that as much as
50% of the blow-by vapor could be attributed to combustion PM escaping past the
cylinder rings and into the crankcase. Open blow-by tubes result in reduced fuel
efficiency, dirty undercarriages, unhealthy interior vehicle environments, and un-
necessary environmental contamination! Additionally, when the engine is shut down,
exterior contaminates enter the engine, which causes a build up of acids in the crankcase
and shortens engine life.
The Solution

Controlling the crankcase venting of pre 2006 diesel engines by retrofitting the engines
with crankcase control equipment has become an acceptable practice that is providing a
tremendous benefit. There are several systems offered by OEMs and manufactures that
do a good job filtering the crankcase vapors… however, The Fuel and Air Saver™ is the
only crankcase ventilation system that has been proven through SAE fuel economy
testing to significantly increase fuel economy while reducing the crankcase emissions.

This revolutionary system installs between the open venting crankcase tube and the
intake to the combustion chamber. As the crankcase gases enter the Fuel and Air
Saver™, the patented separation process, which incorporates nine laws of physics,
separates the harmful and non-combustible vapors such as contaminated oil, water, and
soot from the unburned fuel vapors.

The oil, water, and soot vapors condense into a liquid and settle to the bottom of the
container where they remain… resulting in only the lighter unburned and partially burned
fuel vapor being routed into the intake of the combustion chamber to be burned and
provide increased fuel efficiency. The liquid that settles in the container is disposed of
with the crankcase oil during routine oil changes, rather than being returned to the
crankcase and creating engine harming soot loading.
The Benefits

Independent SAE laboratory testing has validated that the Fuel and Air Saver™ will
provide a 4% miles per gallon increase in fuel economy in class 8 diesel trucks, which for
most carriers results in savings of thousands of dollars per tractor each year.

In addition to significantly increasing fuel economy and decreasing operating costs by

using fuel that would normally be literally thrown away, the installation of the Fuel and
Air Saver™ produces numerous additional benefits such as reduced emissions into our
environment, a cleaner crankcase, and cleaner more effective engine oil which results in
extended oil changes and extended engine longevity.

As the one time investment in a Fuel and Air Saver™ is only a fraction of the savings it
will produce in just one year, our fuel saving system can be one of the best investments
your company can make as it can be recouped in just several months and thereafter
provide a tremendous exponential return on investment for years.

Krank Vent Turbo Kit Installation

in the AWD Mitsubishi 3000GT/Dodge Stealth
by Jeff Lucius
Introduction
This web page discusses the PCV system in our DOHC turbocharged Mitsubishi 3000GT
and Dodge Stealth engines and the installation of the Krank Vent one-way valves in my
1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin Turbo.

The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system on our engines is designed to remove
"blow-by" gases (unburnt fuel-air mixture that escapes past the piston rings on the
compression stroke) from the crankcase before the gases can contaminate the engine oil
or increase the crankcase pressure. Fresh, filtered air is supplied to the crankcase from the
intake hose through the left (rear) rocker cover. This fresh air mixes with the blow-by
gases and is sucked out of the right (front) rocker cover by the partial vacuum in the
intake manifold through a metered orifice (or variable flow valve) called the PCV valve.
As shown in the diagram to the right, the PCV valve consists of a tapered plunger and
two springs, and limits the air flow based on intake manifold vacuum. During idle and
deceleration when blow-by gases are minimal, the low pressure (or "high" vacuum) in the
intake manifold pulls the plunger against the springs and restricts the airflow through the
valve. During cruising and low-load acceleration when blow-by gases are moderate,
medium vacuum in the manifold only pulls the plunger part-way and allows more air
through the valve. During acceleration and heavy-load operations when blow-by gases
are at their maximum, low vacuum in the intake manifold allows the springs to keep the
plunger "back" for maximum airflow through the PCV valve. In the case when the intake
manifold becomes pressurized, such as during boost on turbocharged engines or during
backfire, the plunger's seat is forced against the valve case preventing air from entering
the crankcase. During extremely-high engine load the volume of blow-by gases may
exceed the ability of the PCV valve to draw the vapors out of the crankcase. In addition,
when the manifold is pressurized blow-by gases cannot leave through the PCV valve. In
both of these situations the blow-by gases flow out of the rear rocker cover into the intake
hose.

ET Performance & Racing Products developed and now manufactures and sells one-way
valves that modify the operation of the PCV system and prevent air from entering the
crankcase through either the PCV valve or the intake hose. The ET Performance Krank
Vent Turbo Kit consists of two valve assemblies (one larger than the other) and four hose
clamps. The smaller valve assembly installs in the hose between the factory PCV valve
on the front rocker cover and the intake manifold. Molded into the bottom of the intake
manifold is a small passage that directs the aerosol from the front rocker cover into the
six ports. The larger valve assembly installs in the hose that connects the rear rocker
cover to the intake hose. Both valves allow air to flow through them in only one
direction. When the Krank Vents are installed, air will flow only away from the rocker
covers, maintaining a partial vacuum in the crankcase at all times. ET Performance
claims this partial vacuum
increases engine power and response a few percent because power is not wasted
compressing air in the crankcase on the downward piston stroke,
improves piston ring seal because of the increased pressure differential across the ring,
and
reduces emissions.

The tools needed to remove the stock PCV hoses are a 14-mm wrench and some pliers or
forceps. You might want to loosen the fuel rail, the fuel rail wiring harness, and the triple
clamp on the plenum to make some room to work in. If so, you need a 10-mm and 12-
mm socket and ratchet (or wrenches). I recommend using new silicone hose rather cutting
the stock PCV hoses. The old hoses are probably stiff and prone to cracking. In addition,
by using new hose you can return to the stock setup if you want. An 8-mm inside
diameter (ID), thick-walled hose is the right size for the "upper" hose (the one that
attaches to the PCV valve). I did not have an 8-mm ID hose but the 6-mm ID hose I had
worked fine; the fit was little tight but it worked. A 10-mm ID, thick-walled hose works
well for the "lower" hose (the one that attaches to the intake hose). My Links Web Page
has a section for "hoses and clamps".
Discussion
Before you begin installation, you need to decide if you are going to retain the stock PCV
valve. As discussed above, the stock PCV valve meters the air that leaves the rocker
cover. A problem might occur during very high boost where the stock PCV valve leaks
air into the rocker cover, pressurizing the crankcase. The purpose of the new Krank Vent
in this upper hose is to totally prevent air from flowing from the manifold into the rocker
cover. In this respect, it should cause no harm to leave the stock PCV valve in place. In
fact, ET Performance has recommended this in their posts on the 3SI message board. The
major reason for not retaining the stock PCV valve is because the small opening through
the PCV valve assembly may limit the airflow out of the rocker cover when the intake
manifold is not pressurized or the valve may get dirty and block airflow out of the rocker
cover.

Perhaps a more important decision is whether to install the larger Krank Vent in the
direction that ET recommends or even to install it at all. Installing the larger Krank Vent
with the flow direction away from the rocker cover guaranties that fresh, filtered air will
not enter crankcase from the intake hose, and that the crankcase will always be under
partial vacuum. Installing the Krank vent in the opposite direction is not desirable
because pressurized air would be prevented from leaving the crankcase during boost
situations, when blow-by gas volume is at its greatest. The third alternative is to not
install the larger Krank Vent. This would allow the PCV system to function as it was
designed to, but would eliminate the main benefit that ET attributes to the Krank Vents,
that is, a partial vacuum in the crankcase at all times.
Before you start
If you decide to retain the stock PCV valve then you do not need to worry about its
replacement. If you do not want to use the stock PCV valve then you need to either drill
out and remove the spring and valve body inside assembly or replace the valve assembly
entirely with a suitably sized barbed metric pipe fitting. You might be able to get the
barbed fitting from http://www.rtec.ch/. I decided to drill out one of the extra PCV valves
I had (I still had a functioning PCV valve, which is a good thing as you will read shortly).
Alternately using 1/8" and 7/32" drill bits I worked on the insides of the valve assembly
clamped into a bench vise. This task will take quite a while and at times seems like it will
not work, but you can make it happen. I used dental cleaning tools, forceps, a punch and
hammer, a long bolt, and vicegrips to eventually extract the springs and valve body. Be
sure to wash out the metallic dust inside the PCV housing with some spray degreaser (or
maybe "WD-40") and compressed air if available. The picture below shows the removed
parts and size of the entry passage before and after drilling.

I installed the drilled-out PCV valve assembly with the Krank Vents. As soon as I started
the engine I heard a rather annoying "whistling" type of noise coming from the front (belt
area) of the engine. This phenomenon has been reported by others. And as other have
discovered, when I pinched the hose between the drilled PCV valve and the smaller
Krank Vent the noise went away. The noise is caused by the crankcase being under a
high vacuum because fresh air cannot enter through the larger Krank vent and the stock
PCV valve is not present to reduce airflow at idle. The noise goes away as soon as the
dipstick is raised (hard to do), which allows unfiltered air directly into the crankcase, or
the oil cap removed (it must be pryed off), which allows unfiltered air directly into the
rocker cover. I did not identify the source of the "whistling", but it must be from some
passage that allows unfiltered air into the engine.

I replaced the drilled PCV valve with the good one I had and that got rid of the noise and
high crankcase vacuum at idle. The good PCV valve functions as it is supposed to; the
valve body rattles when shaken and air flows through only one way when tested by
blowing in the ends. I have left my system like this for now. I don't see any advantage for
the high crankcase vacuum at idle (people report the noise goes away during
acceleration), and my primary reason for installing the Krank Vents is to prevent airflow
the wrong way through the PCV valve, especially under boost. I need additional testing
and observations before deciding to leave the larger Krank Vent in place or not for the
long term.

UPDATE: Dec 17, 2003. After living with both Krank Vents and the factory PCV valve
for a year and a half I can say the following. I have not really noticed any difference in
my engine as far as crankcase pressure is concerned. I still need to use an extra gasket on
the oil filler cap to keep it from leaking. There is no discernable difference in idle or
during power operation. While the Krank vents have produced noticeble improvements
for some owners, for me the little (upper) Krank Vent gives me piece of mind that no
intake manifold pressure can enter the rocker covers, but the system does not produce any
dramatic change in crankcase vacuum.
Installation
1. Identify the stock hoses. The picture below shows the two PCV hoses you need to
remove. I placed yellow dots in the picture where the ends of the hoses are. I found it
helpful in creating a little extra working space to disconnect the triple clamp on the
plenum (top center in picture) and the fuel injector wiring harness (black plastic piece
that runs across the front of the plenum), and to loosen but not remove! the fuel rails.
Leave the fuel rail bolts with a few threads attached.

2. Install smaller Krank Vent. Using pliers or forceps, squeeze the clamp at each end of
the hose and slide it off the nipple and back onto the hose. If needed, use a large flat head
screwdriver to help pry off the hose at the intake manifold. Set the hose aside and save it.
Before installing the crank vent, blow through the ends to determine which direction the
air flows. I used a black marker to indicate airflow direction on the Krank Vent (as shown
in the picture above). These easily rub off later. To attach the smaller Krank Vent as
shown in the picture below, I attached a 2-1/2" to 2-5/8" piece of 6-mm ID, thick-walled
hose to the "output" end using the supplied hose clamp; the arrow you drew on the Krank
Vent points to the "output" end. An 8-mm hose would work better but I did not have any
at hand. On the "input" end I attached a 3-1/2" piece of hose with a hose clamp. Place a
hose clamp (not supplied by ET Performance) over the shorter hose and slide the "output"
end hose onto the nipple at the intake manifold (here is where an 8-mm ID hose would
work better). Secure it with the hose clamp. Be sure the arrow you drew on the Krank
Vent is pointing toward the intake manifold and away from the PCV valve. Place another
hose clamp on the free piece of hose and slide the hose onto the PCV valve. If it kinks at
all, remove the hose, cut a little off, and slide it onto the PCV valve again. The final
arrangement is shown below with yellow dots added indicating the ends. When you are
finished with the front or upper Krank vent, you can re-attach the fuel rail and fuel rail
harness.

3. Install larger Krank Vent. Remove the lower PCV hose. It should easily slide off the
nipples at either end. As with the other Krank vent, draw an arrow on the larger Krank
Vent indicating which way air flows through it. Find a suitable place to locate the Krank
Vent. One idea is shown below. Cut the 10-mm ID, thick-walled hoses for length so that
they do not kink. The blue line draw in the picture below gives you an idea of how I
looped the lower piece of hose to avoid kinks. The arrow you drew on the Krank Vent
points away from the rocker cover and to the intake hose. I used the supplied hose clamps
to secure the hoses to the Krank Vent, but just slid the hoses onto the rocker cover and
intake hose without clamps. Re-attach the triple clamp onto the plenum.

4. Test. Start the engine and inspect the system for leaks. If you used a drilled-out PCV
valve or replacement barbed fitting, you may notice a "whistling" sound. This is
eliminated by using a stock PCV valve or removing the larger Krank Ven