Basil, crochet otter pattern

by Sonja van der Wijk

Before you start

This pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. It's useful the read it before you start.
If you use the recommended yarn, your otter will be about 6,1 inch/ 15,5 cm tall. Because the size
of the doll is dependent on the yarn you use and how tight you crochet, it's useful to experiment
with the eye size, despite my recommendations. The yarn I've used is Lopi light/ Lètt lopi, a 100%
wool. The otter is worked in the round/ spirals. You can use a paper clip as stitch marker to mark
the beginning of each round. Move it up each time you start a new round. About changing
colour: I write the stitches in which you'll need to change colour behind the description of the
round, so read the whole line before you start. Always change colour in the last loop of a stitch,
so the loop on the hook you end with, will be the new colour. That means, the next stitch is in
the new colour, not the one you changed in. At Son's Popkes is a tips & tricks category. Here you
can find extra useful info regarding my patterns.

Materials
For this crochet otter you'll need worsted weight yarn and a E US/3,5 mm crochet hook. You'll
need two colours of yarn, brown (2/3 of a 100 yard skein) and beige (1/10). For the eyes I've used
8 mm animal eyes. You will also need fibrefill and pellets for a bit of extra weight in the body (I
use Hama beads). A pipe cleaner for the tail is optional. Lopi colour numbers: 0053 and 0086.

Accessories
Hook E US / 3,5 mm, scissors, embroidery needle, and stitch markers or paper clips.

Abbreviations: ch =chain, sc =single crochet, st =stitch, sl st =slip stitch, dc=double crochet

stitch, s2tog = decrease.

Notes
Thank you for buying this Son's Popkes crochet pattern. When you are showing your otter to the
world online, please don't forget to mention my name and website. I can always use a bit of
promotion.
Muzzle
(Start in beige. Change colour to brown when indicated)
1. ch of 4. In 2nd ch from hook 2 sc, sc in next, 2 sc in last, turn. 2 sc in bottom loop of that last st,
sc in next, 2 sc in next = 10
2. 2 sc in next, sc in next 3, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 3, 2 sc in next = 14 (change colour to BRown
in 8th, to Beige in 13th)
3. sc in each around = 14 (to BR in 8th, to B in 14th) Sl st and leave tails in both colours for sewing.

Ears
(brown)
1. magic ring of 4 = 4
2. 2 sc in next 2, sc in next, sl st in same. Leave tail for sewing.

Head & body

(Start in brown. Change colour to beige when indicated)
1. magic ring of 6 = 6
2. 2 sc in each around = 12
3. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 18
4. (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next) x 3 = 21
5 - 6. sc in each around = 21
7. sc in each around = 21 (to B in 2nd, to BR in 4th, to B in 12th, to BR in 14th)

The eyes of Basil are placed above the 7 th and 11th stitch of this row. They are 'above' the stitch,
which means they are placed between row 6 and 7. Don't close the eyes just yet. When your
otter's head is finished, check if that spot is how you like the eyes and expression.

8. sc in each around = 21 (to B in 2nd, to BR in 15th)

9. sc in each around = 21 (to B in 2nd, to BR in 15th)
10. (sc in next 5, s2tog) x 3 = 18 (to B in 2nd, to BR in 13th)
11. sc in next 4, s2tog, sc in next 5, s2tog, sc in next 5 = 16 (to B in 3rd, to BR in 11th)

Now you have finished the head. You can attach the muzzle with pins, to see if the eyes look
good in their spot and your otter has the face you like. You can use the pics below to help you
get everything right. If you are satisfied, attach/ close the caps of the eyes and stuff the head
firmly.

Continue with the body.

12. (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next) x 4 = 20 (to B in 4th, to BR in 14th)

13. sc in each around = 20 (to B in 4th, to BR in 14th)
14. (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next) x 4, sc in next 4 = 24 (to B in 6th, to BR in 17th)
15. sc in each around = 24 (to B in 7th, to BR in 17th)
16. sc in next 7, 2 sc in next, sc in next 8, 2 sc in next, sc in next 7 = 26 (to B in 8 th, to BR in 19th)
17. sc in each around = 26 (to B in 8th, to BR in 19th)
18. sc in next 10, 2 sc in next, sc in next 6, s2tog, sc in next 7 = 26 (to B in 9 th, to BR in 19th)
19. sc in each around = 26 (to B in 10th, to BR in 19th)
20. sc in next 8, s2tog, sc in next 7, s2tog, sc in next 7 = 24 (to B in 10th, to BR in 17th)
21 - 23. sc in each around = 24
24. sc in next 7, 2 sc in next, sc in next, 2 sc in next, sc in next 8, 2 sc in next, sc in next, 2 sc in
next, sc in next 3 = 28
25 - 31. sc in each around = 28

Now stuff the rest of the head and body, so the otter has a firm shape. Stuff the body till
approximately row 24 if you use pellets. The pellets you use at row 36.
32. (sc in next 5, s2tog) x 4 = 24
33 - 34. sc in each around = 24
35. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 6 = 18
36. (sc in next, s2tog) x 6 = 12. Now fill the rest of the body with pellets. Make sure the hips of the
otter are visible.
37. s2tog x 6 = 6. Sew the hole closed by putting the needle from the inside out, trough all the
outside loops of the 6 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the tail and it will
close the gap. Weave in the end so you'll have a flat bottom.

Arms
(start in brown)
1. magic ring of 4
2. 2 sc in each around = 8
3 - 4. sc in each around = 8
5. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 2 = 6
6. sc in each around = 6
7. sc in each around = 6 (to B in 1th, to BR in 4th, to B in 6th)
8. sc in each around = 6, sl st and leave tail.

Legs
(brown)
1. magic ring of 5
2. 2 sc in each around = 10
3 - 5. sc in each around = 10
6. sc in next 4, s2tog, sc in next 4 = 9
7. sc in each around = 7
8. sc in next 3, ch 1, turn/ go back, sc in next 5, sl st and leave tail.

Tail
(brown)
1. magic ring of 4
2. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 6
3. sc in each around = 6
4. (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 8
5 - 6. sc in each around = 8
7. (sc in next 3, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 10
8 - 9. sc in each around = 10
10. (sc in next 4, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 12
11 - 15. sc in each around = 12
16. (sc in next 5, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 14
17 - 20. sc in each around = 14
21. (sc in next 6, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 16
22. sc in each around, sl st and leave tail.

Assembling the otter

Start with the head. The eyes are already attached. If you use an animal nose, attach it now to the
muzzle. First pin the muzzle to the head, it is placed right below the eyes (there is no space
between the eyes and muzzle) and keep in mind the beige of the head and muzzle blends
together. You can see in the pictures below how Basil's muzzle is placed. If all seems well, you can
sew the muzzle tight. At Son's Popkes you can find a tutorial about how to sew a muzzle
perfectly to the head if you need more help with it.

The ears are placed on top of row 6 and 7, in line with the beige parts of the head. Again, to get a
good example, just take a look at the pics below. When the ears look good, sew them tight.
The body is stuffed and closed, so you can now attach the limbs and tail. First, close the arms and
pin and sew them to the body. They are placed between row 14 and 15, of course neatly on top
of the beige part of the body.

The legs are a tiny bit stuffed and placed a bit at the front side of the body. They start at the
bottom above the last two rounds. Make sure the longest parts of the legs are at the bottom and
when pinning them on, keep in mind they have to stay round where you attach them to the
body. The top of Basil's legs begin at row 32. Also when you pin them on, make sure they are in
the right position for the otter to stand by himself. For these parts you can also check the pics.

The last part to sew is the tail. You can put the pipe cleaner in it, stuff it a bit and prick it into the
body. Of course you want the tail to run smoothly over into the body, so when you sew, sew
through stitches a bit further away from where it is pinned, so the opening stretches wider
where it touches the body. Basil his tail begins, when sewed, between the 28 th and 29th round. If
you do it correctly, there should not be a big bump where the tail is sewed. You can finish your
not so slippery otter by giving him a sewed on nose if he hasn't got a nose yet and you can
embroider a mouth if you like.

Here are a bunch of example pictures to help you get everything right.
Feedback

If you have any questions or trouble while making the pattern, don't hesitate and contact me at
[email protected]. Also if you see a mistake in the pattern please let me know!
To find info, useful tips and more patterns, please visit Son's Popkes. For updates and more you
can follow me on Twitter.

Enjoy!

Copyright © 2014 by Sonja van der Wijk.

All rights reserved. Permission granted to reproduce and make animals for personal use only. Any unauthorised
commercial copying and gain is prohibited.